Yow. Zah. I must say we have pulled together one fabulous evening. Thanks to Stephan Pyles, execuchef Vijay Sadhu, and managing partner George Majdalani, the next SideDish Supper Club at Samar by Stephan Pyles is going to be over-the-top. Not only are they opening the restaurant just for us, but they also designed a one-of-a-kind menu for SideDish Supper Clubbers.
I asked Pyles why he wanted to do the Supper Club, and he had this to say:
“Having traveled the world in search of exotic flavors and preparations, the opportunity to showcase those tastes and customs in this one-time dinner spectacle was very exciting. You will savor the cuisine and cocktails inspired by India, Spain, and the Eastern Mediterranean–think curries, garam masala, cardamom, tandoori, naan, labneh, pomegranates, and pumpkin kofte. Have you ever had a remarkable Lebanese wine? Had your fortune read from the grounds of your Turkish coffee? You will at this dinner! Revel in the unique experience with Indian and Arabic music, belly dancers, and the exotic hookah ritual of narguile shisha.”
During the dessert course, Kyle Stewart of the Cultured Cup will demonstrate a traditional Afghan tea ceremony, and everyone will be able to try Samar’s Afghan Tea, as well as an authentic Masala chai.
Dancing girls! Hookahs! Lebanese wine! Goody bags! Communal tables! Dancing Hookahs ? Perhaps.
The SideDish Supper Club is not just dinner; it’s a culinary learning experience. Please join us on Sunday, December 6, for the next SideDish Supper Club. The cost is $110 per person and we have included tax, gratuity, and valet parking.
CHECK OUT THE MENU BY CLICKING ON THE SIDEDISH SUPPER CLUB LOGO TO THE RIGHT. Hurry, seating is limited. 214-922-9922. (more…)
Are you crazy about chef Marc Cassel’s mussels? Do you love Spam on your pizza? Is bocce a cheese, a font, or a game? Extra, extra, read all about it.
Hector Garcia has booked The Princeton Tigertones, an cappella male choral group from Princeton University, for two shows at Hector’s on Henderson. The Tigertones formed in 1946 and have over 30 recordings. They “encourage harmony, spontaneity, and brotherhood.” This past summer they toured Europe for six weeks. Their nine tours abroad have taken them to Europe, Egypt, Israel, Greece, Japan, Jamaica and many other exotic locations. The first dinner and show (6:00 p.m.) on November 1 is sold out, but owner Hector is adding a 9:00 p.m. show. Limited seating. Call 214-821-0432. Details below. Jump. (more…)
I was having a conversation with a “highly educated” person the other night and he said, “Dallas really needs a great burger place.” I was stunned. When I asked him what places he liked, he reeled off spots—Chips, Goff’s, Neighborhood Services—that were in his neighborhood. I asked him if he ever went out of his way to discover or try new places and he admitted that he didn’t really. He has now been downgraded to “somewhat intelligent.” I mean talk about closed minded. (They don’t even melt the cheese at Goff’s.)
The inside-the-loop-outside-the-loop foodie argument drives me nuts. There is great food all over this area if you are willing to drive. But if you had one restaurant wish, what would you like to see in Dallas? I know what I want, it’s a fleet of these, STAT. Your turn.
Yow. Zah. Remember last week when we reminisced about free matches in Dallas restaurants? Today, Kirk sends this link to a feature story in the New York Times. Next Monday I will have more photos of old Dallas matches. Continue on, dear trendsetters. And say thanks to Kirk for sharing.
Yesterday I spent a couple of hours driving around the Design District, or Lower Oak Lawn if you will. It’s already a groovy area but the plans for the future are really exciting. The Lionstone Group and PegasusAblon have formed a partnership to develop the Dallas Design District which includes both the Dallas Design Center and The Decorative Center. Plans include multifamily residences, a dozen restaurants, and retail establishments. No chains allowed only local businesses. (Restaurateur Shannon Wynne has already started construction on The Moth and Al Biernat has been spotted shopping real estate.) I am seriously considering moving there.
Anywhoo, I bring this up because D Home and Slocum Street Antiques and Design Association have teamed up and they are throwing a big shindig on Thursday, October 8 from 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. Jim “Savor Dallas” White has lined up eight restaurants to serve food. (Fedora Restaurant and Lounge, The Grill on the Alley, Go Fish Ocean Club, Hibashi Teppan Grill & Sushi Bar, Jorge’s, The Kitchen Table at Sheraton Hotel Dallas, Lavendou Bistro Provencal, and Paciugo Gelato.) The event is free and benefits the Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS. If you’re really nice, I’ll show you my potential new digs at The Alexan on Oak Lawn.
Have you waited tables? If so, chances are you have enough juicy tales to fill a book. Here is one of my most memorable tables.
I was working at La Cave Wine Bar on Henderson and a man called ahead to reserve a table in the back of the room near the cellar. He said he was going to have a flower arrangement sent to the restaurant and he would like it placed on a table along with a champagne bucket filled with ice and a chilled bottle of Dom Perignon. He pre-selected a cheese and pate plate. “I don’t want my wife to have to think,” he said. “No problem sir,” I said. (Whoops.)
That evening the couple showed up on time. They were dressed to the nines. I can still see her silver sequined dress. She’d had her hair done by Mr. Larry across the street. She moved through the room and perfumed the air with the strong scent of Opium. The dapper gentleman pulled out her chair. They sat side-by-side. They held hands across the table. I moved in to open the Champagne. It was then that I noticed the 4X6 note cards on his lap. Pop! went the cork. She sliced a bite of aged Mimolette.
Jump with me. (more…)
We are moving our offices downtown next Friday which will be a big blow to Al Biernat’s business. (Goodbye Al; hello Stephan Pyles!) And lest you throw at big rock at me for hanging out at Al’s, I, unlike Tim or Eric, am not a regular at Al’s. I go for meetings perhaps three times a year. Al will back me up here.
Anywhoo, I bumped into Al the other day and he told me he was looking at property in the Design District near Shannon Wynne’s new restaurant. The area (think Candy Evans) is HOT, HOT, HOT. “I just went to tour the place,” said Al. “I don’t really have any real plans in mind but I am not closing my eyes to the possibility of doing something down there.”
In case you haven’t heard, Lower Oak Lawn (Design District) is being developed as a destination for local restaurants and businesses only. No Starbuck’s. No Chicago-based steak joints. No chains. The area just west of I-35 and Oak Lawn Avenue is destined to become a cool, neighborhood hangout. I think a Little Al’s would kick sass down there. Is he going to do it? “I really have to think about it,” said Al. “I sat there for two hours and all I saw were Mercedes and Porsches. And Kim Dawson is there so there will be lots of beautiful young people around.” Sounds like a no brainer to me.
Note from SideDish reader Brian Luscher who happens to be the chef/onwer of The Grape:
We have had some last minute cancellations have come in and now have a few openings for this exclusive 5-course wine paired dinner featuring Petroni Vineyards. Mr. Petroni and son Marco will be in attendance. This will be an intimate event with only a small number of guests in our private wine room. 7:00pm. Cost is $135 per guest. 214-828-1981.
I call that an ad for your win dinner, Luscher. Send more gift certificates.
This chicken fried steak was consumed on Sunday night. Have you tried it? Do you know where it is served? You can check this list or this one for clues. There’s a prize at the end of the tunnel. (Scott, you are not eligible for contest.)
Teresa Gubbins has something to say about everything. Today she has something to say about Bliss Raw Café and Elixir Bar in Dallas. I have not been to Bliss, well the restaurant anyway, but I hear that the regulars are, well, quite regular.
An emergency surgery on a torn retina kept me from attending last evening’s SideDish CheeseHead Celebration at Celebration Restaurant. My good friend and award-winning blogger, Evan Grant (way to go, Grumpy!), subbed for me. Needless to say, he and Mozzarella Company owner Paula Lambert bonded instantly. Thanks to the folks at Lucky Layla, Latte Da, and Mozzarella Company for generously supplying their cheeses. Also thanks to Kiepersol Winery for donating bottles of their award winning Cabernet and Merlot and to wine guru Whit Meyers for pouring them. Kudos to the Ozarows from Empire Baking Company for the bread. Celebration owner Ed Lowe and the great facilitator Lincoln (sorry don’t have his last name) gave us the space and plenty of set-up support. Evan is working up a report of the evening. Thanks to the 50-strong SideDish CheeseHeads who showed up. Here’s looking at you! A few R.P. Washburne photos after the jump. (more…)
I love onion rings. I love them big and tall. I love them greasy and small. Recently I ordered onion rings at a restaurant in Dallas and I was shocked—these are the best rings I’ve had in Dallas in a long time. Since Restaurant Week basically kills the food news biz, let’s play another game today: Can you guess where these onion rings were cooked? Go. Somebody will win something.
WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER:
GJ
Bailey’s in Cedar Hill ?
Yes! Congrats, GJ. Send me an email.
Veteran Dallas restaurateur Shannon Wynne has signed a lease on the “old Ann Sachs tile space” in the Design District (High Line & Oak Lawn) and will open a restaurant/bar called The Moth. Veteran is a nice way to describe Mr. Wynne, in reality he is a crafty, no-bs geezer. Ask him a question and he gives you a straight answer.
Here is a transcript of our phone conversation. (more…)
Yow. Zah. You think Dallas is hungry for Tuscan food or what? The SideDish Supper Club at Nonna we announced yesterday sold out within hours. We have added a second dinner with the same menu on September 17th at 6:00 p.m. Hurry, Nonna just called and the phone is ringing off the hook. 214-521-1800. Operators standing by.
Our cellar-dwelling reporter, Andrew Chalk, sends this report.
What Is The Recession Doing? Even Sacred Things are 50% Off.
You may have heard of Sacred Cellars. They are the wine merchant at the fashionable end of Sadler Circle that specializes in hard to find quality wines from all corners of the globe. Unlike many apparent incarnations of said concept around town they are not the far-flung offshoot of some distant corporate franchise but the year-old child of two serious oenophiles, Rudy Ced and Paul Burrough, who have serious palettes and the connections to get hold of small production stuff. Rummaging through the shelves in their store is like picking through a Victorian attic.
They publish a weekly newsletter and have just started a new feature called Steal of the Week. It features a single highly recommended wine on sale at some outrageous discount. I don’t mean the usual 15-20% off. This is 50% or more. For example, this week the ‘larcenized liquid’ is 2006 Hewitson ‘Old Garden’ Mourvedre from the best wine growing area of Australia, Barossa Valley. Google “2006 Hewitson ‘Old Garden’ Mourvedre” and convince yourself that $40 is about the going freight for this. It also scored 93 points from top wine critic Robert Parker, making it worth that price. The steal price is $20.
I tasted it and this thing is ready to drink tonight with steak, lamb or venison. It has enough tannin to disqualify it as a ‘fruit bomb’ (good thing) but those tannins are soft (quite voluptuous actually) so it doesn’t leave the inside of your mouth feeling rough. The fruit is very forward, mainly raspberries and plums. And the nose has that whiff of cigar box that makes red Bordeaux smell so classy. At $20 I think this is a must buy. Don’t keep it too long (maybe no longer than a couple of years) as I suspect the fruit will fade. 214-764-6858.
[Ed. note: No, he does not work there.]
Dali Wine Bar and Hall Winery hosted a ‘Boutique Napa Wine Dinner’ at the James Beard House in New York City on Monday June 8th. (That’s the whole gang pictured outside of JBH.) Chef Joel Harloff will be recreating that same dinner at Dali in celebration of Dali’s One Year Anniversary. The dinner will take place on Sunday, August 16th at 6:30 p.m. $125 (Exclusive of Tax & Gratuity). 469-385-9360. Menu below. (more…)
Yesterday, La Brenner broke the news on Eatsblog that Lola and the Tasting Room at Lola will be closing in October. In the comments section, Kirk—the shrewd, insightful, sharp-witted, bicycle-riding dude—posted this:
Posted by Kirk @ 11:59 AM Wed, Aug 05, 2009
I have always respected and admired Van [Roberts] and his incredible staff, and the way he is handling this decision raises my regard for him even more. That said, I am sad to see Dallas lose one of its best restaurants, and a sentimental favorite of ours. I hope everyone involved continues to follow his or her muse, which will lead to their continued success. And I also hope The Mansion takes the impending opportunity to hire the most talented chef [David Uygur] in Dallas.
As usual, nice idea, Kirk. David Uygur would be perfect for the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek’s kitchen. Duncan Graham, this would make your mum happy. And Dallas. And we deserve to be happy.
Former Watel’s owner Rene Peeters is in the process of opening three venues on lower Greenville. The first, World Piece, is a café and market with casual dining at moderate process. The market side will be small and feature food and nonfood items from around the world. There will be pastries, breads, prepared dishes, and deli dishes all made on premises plus canned, jarred, and dry goods. Other items include “trinkets and practical items” from around the world. Peeters describes them as “fair-market-minimal-or-no-middlemen-eco-friendly-green-hipfit-help-poor-tribes” items.
This morning, Peeters sends a video update on the progress of World Piece this. Smart guy.
Tuesday, Jim “Sevy” Severson and I met Scott Swicker, a fisherman in Gloucester, Mass. His boat, the Aaron and Alexa, was full of fish he’d just pulled in from the Georges Bank region of the Gulf of Maine. One species was the wolfish (wolf fish, wolffish, ocean cat, lupe de mer). Sevy likes wolfish—the unsightly sucker feeds on clams and lobsters and once you get past his ugly mug, the meat is, like me, sweet and flaky. Sevy decided to feature the wolfish as a special on Thursday at Sevy’s Grill.
We watched as the boat was unloaded and the catch was weighed and processed through the Steve Connolly Seafood Company in Gloucester, MA. The next morning we were in Connolly’s packing plant in Boston when the wolfish arrived. Sevy was standing over the box as his order was packed. We followed the box out to the dock where it was loaded into a refrigerated truck and whisked away to the airport. I hopped on another flight and got back in time to head over to Sevy’s where chef Michael “Buzzy” Zeve was waiting with the wolfish in a pan.
By 8:00 p.m. last night, our table of six was feasting on wolfish. It’s not gorgeous on the plate either, but the meaty fish is simply prepared and a delight. Here is how Buzzy cooked it:
I season with sea salt and course brown pepper and pan sear it in olive oil on the presentation side for about a minute and a half. Then I flip it over and finish it off in the oven for about 5 minutes. I served it on top of orzo folded with a puree of basil and reduced cream. I surround it with a roasted red pepper beurre blanc. It’s all pretty straightforward.
The preparation and presentation may be simple and straightforward, but how the fish gets from the ocean to your plate in Dallas is quite the opposite. And despite being landlocked, Dallas is a market that receives some of the freshest seafood in the country. Thanks to our central location, fresh fish from the Gulf of Maine hits Dallas well before the west coast.
Recently I dined at Café on the Green in the Four Seasons Las Colinas. The dining room is lovely and Master Sommelier James Tidwell’s wine list is fun and affordable. It’s a hotel and we were there on a weekday night so most of the diners were out-of-towners. Chef Katie Natale’s menu is short but varied—New American-ish dishes such as crab cakes, Texas quail, and braised veal cheek. As much as I was tempted to try the veal, I decided to go with what I thought most travelers would pick—Chicken Natale. After all, their impressions of Dallas cuisine is an important part of presenting the Dallas area flavor profile to the rest of the world. Anywhoo, here is my review
Update: This morning I received an e-mail from the restless Mr. Tidwell:
At least one thing has changed since your visit. Every once in a while, I need to find addition creative outlets. So, last week I decided to rewrite the wine list. I added a few selections, but mostly I added commentary. My own. Sometimes a bit cheeky. The servers and guests have loved it. Hope it provides you with some happy reading.
The new wine list at Café on the Green is below the jumperoo. (more…)
Over the weekend, I was privileged to be at the family lake house in East Texas in the company of four of my five perfect nieces and one nephew. We did a lot of cooking (thank you Richard Chamberlain for the brisket recipe) and we made ice cream. We ate handfuls of Texas blueberries, tomatoes, and peaches. One of my five perfect nieces, Jamie (churning the ice cream), wants to be a chef. The other three want to be food critics. Katie, Hannah, and Mia have started Kid Kritics, a blog about food. So far, they have two reviews up. I have spread my dreams under your feet. Tread softly.
Sent to you via me: “Phil & Janet Cobb, Blair Black, Dotty Griffith and Chris Andrews invite you to join them in celebrating the grand opening of Cobb Switch Barbecue.”
The soiree takes place this Saturday, June 27, from 11a.m. to 4:00p.m. There will be live music, $1 margaritas, and raffle drawings to benefit the North Texas Food Bank. Current DMN dining critic, Leslie Brenner, will demonstrate how to make a perfect aioli at 2:00 p.m. If you are still reading this, that last line was not true. Head up to 2625 Old Denton Rd. (Northwest corner of George Bush Turnpike) in Carrollton. 214-483-3600.
After the first SideDish Supper Club at the Mercury, a sometimes polite young man asked me how we were going to top the all sous vide menu. Frankly, the meal was so good, I didn’t think we could. Then came the over-the-top kaiseki dinner paired with sake presented by Kenichi. I can still taste the strawberry with sansho, black pepper, and granita. Tough to top that.
But Dishers, I think I have. We had a great meeting yesterday and I can already smell the menu. The restaurant is teeny and the meal will, once again, be created especially for SideDish readers. It will sell out fast so we may do two seatings. Tentative date is September 17.
Want to be the first to find out the details of the next SideDish Supper Club? Type your e-mail address under the SupperClub logo on the right side of this page. Or join us on Twitter (DSideDish). I could spill the beans at any time. (Whoops.)
Teresa Gubbins, the spear of the foodie arrow, has the scoop and I would hate to steal her thunder (thighs) but I’m going to: SideDish, the new Craigslist?