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2009 Texas Sommelier Conference: Eroica From Ste. Michelle

Recently at the 2009 TexSom Conference at Las Colinas, Andrew Chalk shot this short video on Eroica, a interesting Riesling produced by Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State. Chateau Ste. Michelle has been a pioneer in Riesling production in the U.S. In this short clip, Andrew has an informative chinwag with Joel Butler, the winery’s director of education.

What I’m Drinking Now: Sake

As noted, the top sommeliers in Texas converged in Dallas at the Four Seasons a few weeks ago.  The best sommelier in Texas was tested and selected, and public and trade seminars were held for over 200 attendees. 

One session in particular opened my eyes to flavors that I was familiar with, but hadn’t ever really taken the time to get to know.  Master Sommelier Keith Goldston led a Sunday morning session explaining the origin, nuances and uniqueness of sake, with its Korean roots, and unchanging Japanese production, and almost ceremonial enjoyment. 
Sake, known as Nihonshu in Japan, is as important to the Japanese culture as Bordeaux and Burgundy are to the French. 

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2009 Texas Sommelier Conference in Dallas: Grieve Sauvignon Blanc

Today, Andrew Chalk talks with the two darling men behind Grieve Family Winery in Lovall Valley, California. The wine is 100% Sauvignon Blanc and Andrew felt it was “one of the most interesting white wines of the show.” The show being the TexSom Grand Tasting.

2009 Texas Sommelier Conference: Stewart Cellars

Andrew Chalk, bless his wine-lovin’ heart, sends this video on Napa Valley’s  Stewart Cellars. We tasted this exquisite wine at the Texas Sommelier Conference grand tasting. The winemaker is Paul Hobbs.

Texas Sommelier Conference: Fisher Vineyards

Andrew Chalk is a wine-loving maniac. I asked him to help me cover last weekend’s activities and he did a fine job. He is still reporting! Here is a quick video he produced on an interesting Chardonnay made by Fisher Vineyards (Napa Valley), one of the 100 wines poured at the grand tasting. Note: special cameo appearance.

Video Interview: Christof Syre, Executive Chef Four Seasons Resort & Club

There were many wines and wine heroes acknowledged at the recent 2009 Texas Sommelier Conference but one chef needs to be recognized as the guy who cooked for them all and did a brilliant job. Our gallant roving reporter, Andrew Chalk, caught up with Christof Syre, execuchef for the Chef Four Seasons Resort & Club in Las Colinas, and the twosome talked about what it takes to put together a menu for a room full of certified sommeliers and people with other certifiable distinctions. Chef, you had me at oven-dried peaches and risotto. Go, Andrew.

2009 Texas Sommelier Conference: Texas’ Best Sommelier

As I mentioned earlier, while the 2009 Texas Sommelier Conference was taking place at the Four Seasons Resort & Club in Las Colinas, there were 21 Texas sommeliers competing for Texas’ Best Sommelier. Last night at the Grand Tasting, the winners were announced. June-Ann Rodil of Uchi in Austin won. Anibal Calcagno (Brenner’s Steakhouse in Houston) took 2nd, and John Honefenger (Tony’s in Houston) took third.

(James Tidwell, Devon Broglie, Craig Collins, June-Anne Rodil, Guy Stout, Drew Hendricks)

UPDATE: Photos from last night.

2009 Texas Sommelier Conference in Dallas

This morning we talked a lot about wine lists and managing beverage programs. One of the panelists, Joe Spellman, had some interesting things to say about wine by the glass and the current “fetish with half bottles” on wine lists. I attempted to shoot an award-winning video. Instead, I got a poor sound quality video clip of a really nice, smart wine guy making some good points. So, put on your headphones. You know where to put the cork.

2009 Texas Sommelier Conference in Dallas: Managing a Beverage Program

My office today.

Notes and quotes (in shorthand) from the just-completed “Management of a Beverage Program”

Panel: Richard Betts, MS, Paul Roberts, MS, Larry O’Brien, MS, Greg Harrington, MS, Joe Spellman, MS, Drew Hendricks. Moderated by James Tidwell, MS .

*Sommeliers are considered greedy prima donnas that take your money. In reality, they must be an artist, businessperson, and maintain a low ego. Good qualities of a sommelier include—team player, able to do other restaurant tasks, and be physically strong.

*What not to do in a bad economy: panelists are all concerned about “doing deals.” They don’t mean anything if everyone is doing them. When the economy comes back, the customers will remember and think “when the economy is good, you are screwing us.” So, wine programs need to spin programs differently and readjust their long-term and short-term goals. “Think outside the box, lower the cost of sales and increase your volume.” “Engender good will.” “View this time as an opportunity to buy new or lesser know styles or regions.” “Indies should depend on this.”

*“Food writers hammer restaurateurs and sommeliers on wine prices, but don’t hammer spirit prices.” “We are a business and have to make money.”

*Basics of building a wine program. Have ten familiar “core wines” such as Jordan, Cakebread, Silver Oak, Dom Perignon and sell them at a lower price than your competition. You will look like a hero. Customers are familiar with these wines and will feel more comfortable and consider your list as a good value list.

*Developing lists for small indie restaurant. Balance regions and price points and allow the list be a direct extension of your menu and concept. (Some on the panel felt it was essential to have core brands on the list; others disagreed.) “If core wines are 50%, the list is a bummer.” Write your wine list without any wine first. Pick your types of wines and your price points and then develop and map the list with particular wines. This not only helps control your costs, it pairs your wine list with your business model and menu.

*The economy and overpriced wines. There are overpriced wines all over the world and they are in the process of a worldwide correction in prices. The strong will survive, but there will be blood in the streets for others.

*Wine prices follow Wall Street bonuses. People invest in the Bordeaux market based on Wall Street bonuses.

*What do you do if the customer wants to pay a certain price for a wine? If you “eBay” the wine, the customer will always remember. Don’t do it. Use it as an opportunity to find out what price they want to pay for a wine and then guide them to another selection. Usually the people with the most money play this game. “When the Wall Street guys got their $10 million bonuses, they tried to make deals on wine and took it out on sommeliers.” According to the panel, a lot of Wall Street dropped some “sick money” on wine. Those days are gone.

2009 Texas Sommelier Conference in Dallas: To The Trade Program

Greetings from the Grand Sabine Ballroom at the Four Seasons Resort & Club in Las Colinas. Andrew Chalk and I are here to cover the 5th Annual Texas Sommelier Conference (TexSom) “To The Trade” segment of the conference. Yesterday, approximately 200 wine lovers showed up for tastings and lectures on Pinot Noir, Sake, Austrian wines, Rioja, and wines from Northern Rhone.

As we were sipping and learning, a group of 21 wine professionals were behind the scenes in other banquet room taking tests and competing for the Texas’ Best Sommelier contest. The winner will be announced tonight at the Grand Tasting.

“Management of a Beverage Program” starts in a little while and will be followed by seminars on “Aperitifs”,  “Cool Climate Australia”, Texas Wine”, and Napa Valley (Floor vs Hill Side). If you have any questions for any of the speakers, send me an e-mail. Otherwise, there is always Twitter (DSideDish) if you need immediate gratification.

2009 Texas Sommelier Conference: The Pinot Noir Tasting

Today the 5th Annual Texas Sommelier Conference started with a Pinot Noir tasting and lecture at 9:00 a.m. Needless to say, I missed it. But Andrew Chalk was there and files this geeky report. (Geeky is good.) (Twitter reports: DSideDish)

It is 10:00 a.m. on Sunday and it has been a fairly typical morning. I have just finished eight Pinot Noirs at the 5th Annual Texas Sommelier conference at The Four Seasons Resort and Club in Las Colinas. The guided tasting was led by former sommelier and now wine critic (with Stephen Tanzer’s ‘International Wine Cellar’) Josh Raynolds. It has been, frankly, the most instructional hour on Pinot Noir that I have ever spent. For example, did you know there is more Pinot Noir grown in Champagne than in Burgundy? Or that the origins of the grape are not known? Or that the emerging areas for the grape are Australia, New Zealand and Chile?

Here are my notes and scores on the eight wines. These are necessarily brief and curt as they were keyed in ‘real time’ as the tasting proceeded. (more…)

Wonderful Weekend of Significant Wine Events in Dallas

There are two  significant wine conferences taking place in Dallas this weekend.The GO TEXAN Drinklocalwine.com event starts tonight with a dinner at Le Cordon Bleu Institute of Culinary Arts. On Saturday the all-day conference will feature seminars focusing on trends in Texas wine, the distinctive grapes that Texans are using to make those wines, and how consumers can work to get more regional wines in stores and restaurants. The final event of the day will be a Texas Twitter Taste-off, moderated by Russ Kane of Vintage Texas. Participants will taste some 40 Texas wines and blog or Twitter about them. Their votes will pick the conference’s favorite wines. I’ll be one of those Twittering fools (DSideDish). BTW, the event is sold out.

On Sunday, the fifth annual Texas Sommelier Conference (TexSom) kicks off at the Four Seasons in Las Colinas. The two-day event includes lectures and tastings with the nation’s preeminent wine experts. There are five classes on Sunday, August 16 (some tickets still available) and a grand tasting on Monday evening, August 17th.  A separate set of courses, designed exclusively for the trade and media, will take place on Monday. While the courses are conducted, a competition for Texas’ Best Sommelier runs behind the scenes. On Monday evening, the conference concludes with a Grand Tasting(a few tickets available), where wine professionals and the public come together to taste world-class wines and witness the drama and celebration surrounding the naming of Texas’ Best Sommelier 2009.  Last year’s winner is Scott Barber of Dallas’ Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek.  He dominated 24 other competitors and won the coveted title after a rigorous three-part examination involving wine tasting, service and theory. Once again, I will be a Twittering and blogging fool.

Texas Wine Events In Dallas: August Is Going To Be Fun

Texas has 177 wineries and 280 commercial vineyards. The folks behind GO TEXAN want to discuss them all. Hence, the GO TEXAN DrinkLocalWine.com Conference 2009, set for Aug. 14 & 15 at Le Cordon Bleu Institute of Culinary Arts Dallas. Plan to hang with local wine writers, food bloggers, columnists, sommeliers, producers, and growers.

The conference will include three seminars, focusing on trends in Texas wine, the distinctive grapes that Texans are using to make those wines, and how consumers can work to get more regional wines in stores and restaurants. The final event of the day will be a Texas Twitter Tasting, moderated by Russ Kane of Vintage Texas, where participants will “be able to taste some of the state’s top wines and blog or Twitter at the same time.” Full schedule here.

Then on Sunday and Monday, August 16 and 17th, the Wine & Food Foundation of Texas and the Texas Sommelier Association will host the Annual Texas Sommelier Conference (TexSom), at the Four Seasons Hotel in Las Colinas.

The general public is invited to attend five classes on Sunday, August 16th and the grand tasting on Monday evening, August 17 where wine professionals and the public meet to taste world-class wines and witness the  announcement of Texas’ Best Sommelier 2009.

Each class offers at least six wines to taste and lasts one hour and fifteen minutes. Courses open to the public include: Pinot Noir, Sake, Austria, Rioja, and Northern Rhone.

Speakers include some of the nation’s top wine professionals: Master Sommeliers (MS), Certified Wine Educators, one Master of Wine (MW) and other respected wine educators.

A separate set of courses, designed exclusively for the trade and media, are offered on Monday. Click here to register for both the public and trade sessions.

Jump for schedule and more details. (more…)

Restaurant Review: Café On The Green

Recently I dined at Café on the Green in the Four Seasons Las Colinas. The dining room is lovely and Master Sommelier James Tidwell’s wine list is fun and affordable. It’s a hotel and we were there on a weekday night so most of the diners were out-of-towners. Chef Katie Natale’s menu is short but varied—New American-ish dishes such as crab cakes, Texas quail, and braised veal cheek. As much as I was tempted to try the veal, I decided to go with what I thought most travelers would pick—Chicken Natale. After all, their impressions of Dallas cuisine is an important part of presenting the Dallas area flavor profile to the rest of the world. Anywhoo, here is my review

Update: This morning I received an e-mail from the restless Mr. Tidwell:

At least one thing has changed since your visit. Every once in a while, I need to find addition creative outlets. So, last week I decided to rewrite the wine list. I added a few selections, but mostly I added commentary. My own. Sometimes a bit cheeky. The servers and guests have loved it. Hope it provides you with some happy reading.

The new wine list at Café on the Green is below the jumperoo. (more…)

26th Annual Lone Star International Wine Competition: Report from James Tidwell

Master Sommelier James Tidwell from Cafe on the Green at The Four Seasons in Las Colinas files this report:

This past Monday and Tuesday (June 8 & 9), 23 other Texans and I judged over 500 wines during the 26th Annual Lone Star International Wine Competition. I’m probably going to hear “It’s a tough job, but….” However, the sober and serious judges consisted of sommeliers (Paul Botamer of Fearing’s, Michael Flynn of Mansion on Turtle Creek, Hunter Hammett of Pyramid Restaurant, and Luigi Santos of Bob’s Steak and Chop House in Grapevine), restaurant owners, retailers, wine distributors and a number of wine writers and bloggers (Alfonso Cevola, Jeff Siegel, Renie Steves and Russ Kane), under the direction of Co-Chairs Barbara Werley MS of Pappas Bros. Steakhouse and Michael Zerbach. The wines were divided into over 30 categories and tasted blind. No, we weren’t wearing blindfolds. We were given anywhere from three to 12 glasses at a time with no knowledge of what we were tasting except the grape variety and vintage of the wines. Then, each panel of five judges would vote on whether each wine rated a gold, silver, bronze or no medal. Arguments insued, fisticuffs were avoided. At the end, 26 gold, 81 silver, and 172 bronze medals were awarded to wines from 14 states and several foreign countries. In addition, we voted for the Texas Rising Star Award which recognizes a white and a red wine from Texas wineries less than three years old. I would love to tell you the winners, but you’ll have to await the official announcement from the Texas Wine and Grapegrowers Association on June 19th. I will tell you that I learned one important lesson…Texas is producing some delicious wines. So, GO TEXAN.

Nice work TWGGA. Looking forward to the Drink Local Wine Conference in Dallas on August 15th.

UPDATE: Results were released late this afternoon. New this year was a category for Texas wineries that have been in business for three years or less.  Titled the Texas Vintner’s Rising Star Award, it was sponsored by owner and long time wine maker of Messina Hof Winery & Resort, Paul Bonarrigo.  It was awarded to recognize fine Texas wine made from new, up and coming wine makers and encourage more new wineries to enter their products.  There were six new wineries that fit the criteria.  An award was presented for the best red wine and the best white wine, which were judged separately on the final day of judging.  This year’s winners of the Texas Vintner’s Rising Star Awards were KE Cellars (Tyler) for their 4 U Syrah, 2007 red table wine and Enoch’s Stomp Vineyard & Winery (north of Longview) for their Blanc du Bois Off-Dry white, 2008. WAY TO GO EAST TEXAS!

Courtney Luscher Of The Grape Passes Level 1 Of The Master Sommelier Exam

Courtney Luscher studied hard to pass the first level of the Master Sommelier exam and today she learned that she passed with flying big jammy nose colors. The test is the first tier of  testing conducted by the Court of Master Sommeliers (not to be confused with this court). You know Courtney; she’s married to chef Brian C. Luscher. Together they own and operate The Grape. Congrats. (That’s not really Mrs. L to the left. Oh wait, I mean Mrs. Luscher.)

CONGRATS: James Tidwell Passed Master Sommelier Exam

You’ve heard me talk about Four Seasons Sommelier James Tidwell. He’s one half of the duo who founded the Texas Sommelier Conference and has been a champion of wine education in Texas for years. I just received a text from James (he’s still in Healdsburg, Calif.) and am happy to report that he passed the exam, making him the fourth Master Sommelier in Texas, second in Dallas. For those of you who don’t know what a major feat it is to pass the test, read this article to get a clue. Congratulations, James. We all know how hard you’ve worked for this. Well done. (Tidwell pictured seated on right.)

Texas’ Best Sommelier Video: Winning Moments

Texas’ Best Sommelier was crowned on Monday at the Four Seasons in Austin. You know all about it. See what really happened. Watch video of the winning moments as Kim Wood, Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, and D’Lynn Proctor, Wine’tastic, tie for third and The Mansion on Turtle Creek’s Scott Barber takes first. Thanks to Kyle Kearbey for editing my shabby attempt at becoming at videographer.

Texsom 2008: Updates to Photo Gallery

I’ve added about 20 new pictures to the gallery.

Texas’ Best Sommelier 2008: Dallas’ Scott Barber

The Mansion on Turtle Creek’s Scott Barber is named Texas’ Best Sommelier 2008. The prize–$2500 for Court of Master Sommelier education and bragging rights for a year. Two Dallas sommeliers tied for third place–D’Lynn Proctor from Wine’tastic and Kim Wood from Pappas Bros. Steakhouse. Second place went to San Antonio’s Laura Atkinson. Congratulations, all. Photos and video clips to come.

Texsom Update: Washington Seminar

Washington State is not all as rainy as Seattle. It’s hard to imagine growing grapes in Washington until you realize there is a rainshadow effect that stops the rain heading too far east, barely making it past the Cascades Mountains. Nestled between that mountain range and the Rockies is the Columbia Valley where the majority of Washington wines are produced. Shayn Bjornholm, M.S. and educational director for the Washington Wine Commission, said the area is ideal for growing grapes because although the region is techically a semi-continental desert, there is a 40 degree shift at night that allows the grapes to cool. We focused on Syrah, which is quickly becoming Washington’s signature varietal. The area is peppered with old, dormant volcanoes. The evidence is in the soil, which is rich with basalt. It drains well and lends an old-world minerality that is rare on this side of the Atlantic. Technical Alert: Washington does not have to graft their vines to combat Phylloxera. The little pests cannot thrive in Washington because of the intense heat and wind (correction: sandy soil). With very few exceptions, most vines must be grafted from France to Napa. Washington is one of about three or four regions worldwide that can survive without grafting. Of course it could be said that these Syrahs will show a natural expression of the fruit than cannot be achieved even in the Rhone region of France where the grape is indigenous. They’re studying this. I’m sure once they can prove that’s true, we’ll all hear about it. Follow the jump for tasting notes for six outstanding Syrahs.

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Texsom 2008 Photo Gallery

I know it won’t replace the thrill of being here personally, but check out the photo gallery. I’ll add photos over the next two days, so check back often.

photo courtesy of Texas Sommelier Conference 2008

Master Sommeliers, Shiner, and The Salt Lick

We piled in the tour bus heading to Driftwood, Texas for a night of beer, wine, and barbecue at The Salt Lick–the official kick-off party for the 2008 Texas Sommelier Conference. The bus was filled with several of the most influential Master Sommeliers in the country. Naturally, I thought the ride was going to be punctuated by heated debates about acidity levels in Sangiovese grapes or something along those lines. I couldn’t have been more wrong. Turns out, Master Sommeliers really like beer. Shiner Bock and Lone Star to be exact. Several of the most influential MS’ in the world had the bus driver stop at a roadside liquor store to grab a few cases for the group. This is going to be a fun weekend. Once we arrived at The Salt Lick, Ray Wylie Hubbard was getting ready to start a set as the wine corks started to pop. Check out a video of Hubbard playing while Master Sommeliers Guy Stout and Fred Dame (in the white cowboy hat) dance a few lucky ladies around the room. Follow the jump for a list of my favorite wines of the night (all from Australia) and more blurry pics. I will have many more in focus pics in the coming days.

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Live Blogging from the Texas Sommelier Conference

This weekend I will be heading down the Austin for the Texas Sommelier Conference. I will be live blogging all-day on Sunday and Monday between seminars. Be sure to tune in. Expect highlights, pics, and interviews with local sommeliers and the Master Sommeliers in town to judge the Texas’ Best Sommelier contest and lead seminars. In preparation and training for the working weekend, I am on a strict diet of Viognier and New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, increasing the number of glasses I drink each day. One of my poor co-workers is training for a marathon. Training for a sommelier conference is much more fun. Texas’ Best Sommelier will be announced Monday evening.