One of the two vineyards that provided the fruit for the 2010 Inwood Estates Chardonnay, Dallas County

Nancy Nichols showcased  local food items as holiday presents.  I’m here to recommend some local wine that is not just made in town, it is grown here. I’m delighted to announce that a successful Dallas County Chardonnay growing has just emerged. The 2010 Inwood Estates Chardonnay, Dallas County is grown in the vineyards on Inwood Road and on Bear Creek Rd.  Winemaker Dan Gatlin says in a press release:

“The historical significance of this release is obvious.  This may be one of the most unique and surprising accomplishments of the wine and food community in the Dallas area ever.  It is a watershed event for many reasons. As one of America’s large cities, it represents an achievement in urban wine-growing and urban farmingIt gives new meaning to the idea of “locally grown” with a type of crop never thought possible. It is a symbol of civic pride and something uniquely meaningful to our residents”

Jump for more.

There will be only 83 cases produced from the 2010 vintage.  Inwood suggests that this wine will be best for tasting beginning in the Spring-Summer of 2012 and thereafter for several years.

Gatlin described the style thus “Our 2010 Chardonnay is a distinctly mineral version which accurately reflects the high calcium soils of Dallas County.  This wine was given extended aging prior to bottling which added roundness to the finish and softened the angular minerality.  Although the wine was not given secondary Malo-Lactic fermentation, there is a tiny amount of butter in the nose with vanilla from the French Oak.  In summary, it is a New World style Chardonnay with a crisp mineral finish from the Texas terroir.”

My own tasting notes are from last March. Since then, the wine has undoubtedly changed. I second Gatlin’s comments, but would add that the varietal character comes through loud and clear. This is no zip code wine masquerading as Chardonnay. It also has good body and fruit-acid balance. And it really is, as he says, something of a landmark. I will be serving it blind to my wino friends and asking them where it came from (ever seen a Californian with a red face?).

The wine is available this weekend at the winery for $39.50. Hurry, an early sellout is assured.

Inwood Estates Vineyards

1350 Manufacturing Street, #209
Dallas, TX  75207
12-5 Saturday
1-5 Sunday
(214)  902-9452

We sent D Magazine intern Suzanne Asfar to check out Two Corks and a Bottle, a new custom winery and wine bar in Uptown.

As luck would have it, my first event to cover as an intern at D Magazine was the grand opening of Two Corks and a Bottle, a wine bar and make-your-own wine shop. The scene was a festive. The room opened into a small, intimate seating area with bistro tables occupied by happy party goers. Behind them, in the center of the hubbub, co-owner Elwyn Hull stood behind a u-shaped granite bar and poured wine into glasses. We shuffled closer and deeper into the 40-odd scatter of middle-aged nondescript folks (we were easily the youngest couple in the joint) and were greeted by Barb, the marketing and PR contact.

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She introduced me to the equally gregarious and other co-owner John Ley. John took us to the workroom and gave us the rundown on the bar-winery: its conception in Michigan inspired by his brother Bob (you can read the story and more on their website); the opening of the franchise in July with his (business) partner and former boss Elwyn; and the brewing and bottling processes.

Outside, four food trucks—Nammi Truck, Ssahm BBQ, 3 Men and a Taco, Gennarinos—that she hoped would not perturb the unsuspecting security guard provided sustenance. Inside we noshed on cheese plates from Scardello and Baker Bros. that she hoped would not perturb the unsuspecting security guard. We sampled John’s favorite wines that were also on the list for the night: Amarosso’s Italian Amarone and the 65° Savignon Blanc. We also sipped of the Wild Zee Pomegranate Zinfandel that tasted to me like a bad off-brand candle and the Mojito Cooler which was too minty for John, just right for Elwyn, and fine for me with a higher alcohol content than your normal wine cooler. The patio was lovely and the grand opening party for Two Corks and a Bottle’s made for a lovely evening.

The Quadrangle in Uptown

2800 Routh Street, Suite 140

corner of Routh and Laclede

Dallas, TX  75201

214-871-WINE (9463)

John Ley (left) and Elwyn Hull (right) of Two Corks and a Bottle.

Old friends John Ley and Elwyn Hull left their full-time jobs in search of more satisfying work.  They  knew they loved working with people and wanted to find a way to help nonprofit organizations. So, naturally, they opened Two Corks and a Bottle—a custom winery and wine bar (where the serve as the wine makers) as part of the Wine Not, International Winery System.

All wines have been crafted on the premises using grapes sourced from quality vineyards from around the world, including France, Italy, Australia, South America, and California. The list contains over 25 red, white, and fruit wines by the glass and the bottle. During their daily wine tastings, five tastes run non-members $5, and are free for all Wine Club Members.

Jump for other highlights:

D-I-Wine: Guests can make their own vintage onsite by choosing from a list of available varietals or blends. Once your vintage is ready, staff will show you how to bottle, cork, and label it.  Mother Nature (along with John and Elwyn) do the hard part.

Custom labels: Picking up a bottle of wine for a special occasion? Have a custom label created right on the spot.

Monthly wine memberships:Memberships offer you the opportunity to enjoy new wines each month for a fraction of the cost of most imports. Memberships offer special discounts on all wine purchases, accessories; access to exclusive events, and access to our wine of the month chosen by our wine makers.

Yappy Hour: The patio is dog-friendly, and the owners anticipate many future “Yappy Hour” fundraisers benefiting Pet Organizations. John Ley also hopes to use this venue to support Alzheimer’s, Brain Cancer and HIV/AIDS.Most recently, Two Corks and a Bottle held a fundraiser for the Lone Star Ride Fighting HIV/AIDS.

Next Thursday, June 30th Fuqua Winery will host a Double Blind seated tasting of 10 different Rose wines, the perfect wine for summer, with prices and brands revealed after the tasting is complete.  Rose can be made from so many different varietals from Pinot Noir to Merlot to Malbec, in fact pretty much any traditional red varietals has probably been made into a Rose.  This is a great opportunity to try several and find one that fits your palate.  Reservations required -214 769-117.  

If you are in the neighborhood (behind the Home Depot on Lemmon) this weekend, Fuqua is also asking guests to stop by, fill out a quick questionnaire and receive a free glass of wine.

Also next Thursday, Oak Cliff Wine Cellars has teamed with Lavendou Bistro for a wine dinner featuring several of Oak Cliff Cellars wine paired with delicate French country fare at Lavendou.  Reservations required – 972-248-1911.

I stopped by Times Ten Cellars the other Wednesday night, pizza night, and was glad to see it packed with groups of friends, families and cozy couples enjoying a glass and a pie from the pizza oven parked right out front.  Their crisp, spicy, cherry filled Rose of Syrah is on sale this month also for $8.99 a bottle, take home.

August 3rd Calais Winery in Deep Ellum will begin a semi-annual wine recycling program to help improve recycling of wine bottles in Texas.  On average only 30% of wine bottles in the state are recycled after they are emptied.  Calais would like to see that number improve so at their first event on August 3rd they will give incentives to guests who bring in wine bottles from Texas (only Texas wines) for recycling including free tastings and discounts off their wine purchase.

And the next Texas Wine Trail with Calais, Fuqua, Times Ten Cellars and Inwood Estates will be July 23rd benefiting The Greyhound Adoption League of Texas.  Details and tickets here.

Through his life long work, including becoming an ordained minister, working in non-profit management, a bank executive assisting with community development, and his current work as the Executive Director of National Rural Funders Collaborative helping rural communities with their economic improvement, he has been led to make wine with a charitable cause.  Though production is small, about 450 total cases, he donates generously, as shown through recent events with Dallas’ Shared Housing Center.  Jim follows the belief that if you do well you have an obligation to give back.

And, the wine is good.  Distributed in Dallas, but produced in Northern California from vineyards Jim has built lifelong relationships with.  The stand outs, 2009 barrel aged Sauvignon Blanc with citrus and tropical fruit aromas with the barrel aging balancing the acidity to create a perfect patio wine; 2008 Napa Valley Chardonnay, mineral and stone fruit rich and filled with apricot, apple and pear; and a well structured 2007 Pinot Noir made with predominantly Anderson Valley fruit blended with some from the Mendocino Coast.  Aged 24 months in barrel the wine is filled with baking spices, cherry and hints of vanilla.  The wine is available for purchase here.

Map below.

Edible Texas Wine Food Match, presented by Edible Austin and The Texas Food and Wine Gourmet. This first-ever culinary competition challenges chefs from Central Texas to create regional food to pair with appellation wines of Texas to bring out the best in both. Held on Friday, June 3, 7 to10 p.m. at the AT&T Conference Center in Austin, the competition is an official event of the 2011 International Association of Culinary Professionals’ national conference.

Guest judges include Jacques Pépin, world-renowned chef, television celebrity, author and culinary educator; Francois Dionot, founder and director of L’Academie de Cuisine; John Besh, chef, restaurateur, author and television personality; Michael Bauer, executive food and wine editor for the San Francisco Chronicle; and Paula Lambert, cookbook author and founder of the Mozzarella Company. Five Central Texas chefs, chosen by a panel of preliminary judges, will vie for the perfect pairing that reflects the soil, grapes, wine and food of Texas in three courses for 150 guests. Proceeds from the event will benefit the newly launched nonprofitTexas Center for Wine and Culinary Arts in Fredericksburg, Texas.

“It is wine savored with food that matters!” said Texas wine authority Dr. Russell Kane. From the French province of Languedoc to the hills of Texas, it is wines reflecting the essence of their origin through the grapes grown in their region thoughtfully paired with food distinct to their region, which will inform the present and future of winemaking in America.

I was most impressed by chef Marco J. Martinez of Matt’s Rancho Martinez. Marco is the youngest son of the late, great Matt Martinez, Jr. Marco created a “Southern plus prairie plus Texan” dish which consisted of a thick waffle covered with smoked rabbit and jalapeno cole slaw. I’d give second place to Chef Tim Byres of Smoke. He served melt-in-your-mouth ribs with a sassy chimichurri sauce and blue cheese spiked grits. As always, Jacques Pepin floated around the crowd chatting and sampling the food by Texas chefs. He is perhaps the kindest man in the business.

Go below for video and pictures. And make plans to attend next year (April 20-22). It’s an intimate event and the proceeds go to supporting graduate fellowships to students studying vititculture and/or enology at Texas Tech.

On with the show. Watch Jacques Pepin drink red wine. Katherine Clapner spin sugar. Greg Bruni make my favorite new wine!

Jacques Loves Red Wine!

Katherine Clapner of Dude, Sweet Chocolates Spins Magic!

Greg Bruni of Llano Estacado Makes My Newest Favorite White Wine!

Chef Marco J. Martinez of Matt's Rancho Martinez.

Waffle with braised rabbit and jalapeno cole slaw by Chef Marco Martinez.

The Wines from Texas, France, and California

Ed Auler (Fall Creek Winery) and Paula Lambert.

Jacques Pepin enjoys the show.

Jacques and his daughter Claudine hit the red dirt dance floor

The Tweeting Chef: Stephan Pyles.

The outdoor kitchen at Perini Ranch Steakhouse.

Emcees Tiffany Collins and Guy Stout (Glazer's).

Red sky and mesquite trees.

Final dine around on the grounds of Perini Ranch

Chef Tim Byres of Smoke plates ribs and grits.

And wine…and spirits…but mainly the evening showcased a stunning assortment of flavors created by 60+ of the best chefs in the city.  Though there was a bit of a line to get into the venue, once in guests comfortably strolled throughout the two large ball rooms at The Sheraton Dallas downtown sipping, tasting and enjoying everything Savor Dallas had to offer. 

This year included an impressive selection of silent auction items, including a signed magnum and jeroboam of Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon, a signed jeroboam of King Estate  Pinot Noir, a signed magnum of The Doctor from Krupp Brothers, and a great selection of Caribbean vacations from Elite Island Resorts, all with proceeds going to The North Texas Food Bank.  D Magazine had a fun booth as well, where guests could get their pictures taken and made into a cover shot for D.

Hundreds of selections of wine and spirits were poured.  Some favorites included a crisp Sauvignon Blanc from Wrath, made by Michael Thomas…originally a Texan who is now making wine in San Saba, CA; silky Merlot from Cakebread Cellars filled with subtle plum and blackberry flavors; Ramey Wine Cellars bold Cabernet Sauvignon; a spicy red blend from Chile called Primus; an earthy, cherry filled Spanish Crianza from Valdubon; excellent single malt scotch from Balvenie; and, as I am always on the look out for a great bubbly, Gloria Ferrer Carneros Cuvee delivered with toasted almond and baked apple flavors. 

Crawfish Etouffee from One to One, Wrath Wines

Favorite bites came from Janice Provost of Parigi,who created her signature pink dish, this time in the form of pork belly risotto; nettle soup fromBolsa  filled with fresh tomato and lots of garlic; Dave Holben of Del Frisco’s created a succulent grilled shrimp with a pineapple run sauce on crisp cabbage and red pepper Asian slaw; mac and cheese with mushrooms and bacon from The Grill on The Alley ; sticky bun bread pudding French toast from Tom Flemming of Crossroads Diner; heavenly roasted pistachio ice cream from Dunia Borga of La Duni and her new adventure, MiCrema – Bespoken Frozen Desserts made with all natural ingredients.   Perhaps my best bite of the night was a luscious piece of meaty lump crab with Tahitian vanilla from Bodhi Durant of Kenichi. 

Chef Dunia Borga of La Duni with her Roasted Pistachio Ice Cream; Chef Randall Copeland of restaurant Ava making cavatelli pasta on site; Chef Daniel Winans of The Grill on the Alley

With an event like last night, we can all look forward to Savor Dallas 2012 with anticipation.

Lump Crab with Tahitian Vanilla from Kenichi (top left), Nettle Soup from Bolsa (top right), Risotto from Parigi (bottom left), Grilled Shrimp with Pineapple Run Sauce from Del Frisco's (bottom right)

Beat Kotoun of Kobrand pouring Cakebread Merlot, Chef Bodhi Durant of Kenichi

Rich Rogers of Scardello

Savor Dallas International Grand Tasting Patrons

Central Market  has Veuve Clicquot this week for $37.99….one of the lowest prices I have seen in a while! And, buy 6 bottles or more of any wine and get 10% off.

Our friends at Siduri in Sonoma have a few great packages for the holidays all of which include free shipping, more available via their website:

RUSSIAN HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS
2009 Novy Russian River Valley Gewurztraminer
2009 Siduri Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
2007 Novy Russian River Valley Syrah
 Gift Pack for only $60 including shipping.

 SINGLY UNIQUE, COLLECTIVELY EXTRAORDINARY
2008 Siduri Sonatera Vineyard Pinot Noir
2008 Siduri Keefer Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir
2008 Siduri Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir
Gift Pack for only $99 including shipping.

Rodney Strong Vineyards  has a special on their November wine of the month.  Save 20% on their 2007 Symmetry from Alexander Valley.  I love this wine, a classic Bordeaux style blend aged 26 months in French oak.

Times Ten Cellars  has a handful of specials that should meld well into your holiday meal.   Their Dry Rose is just $7.99 a bottle, and does pair well with just about anything, especially for the price.  Their 2007  Blend X was just released and is a solid blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet, and a bargain at $10.99 a bottle.  And an ideal turkey pairing, their 2007 Grenache is also just $10.99 a bottle.  Stop in for a glass and pick some up to take home.

Between now and November 16th Northstar Winery in Washington will offer one cent shipping on orders of $100 or more.  Grab their tasty Walla Walla Merlot to pair with your turkey.  Sister winery Chateau St. Michelle is as well. 

Del RioVineyards  in Southern Oregon grows some of the best Syrah grapes in the state, smokey, spicyand excellent with a harvest holiday meal.  Through November all shipping on all orders is free. 

Lecole No41 in Walla Walla, Washington also has a very gift pack specials on their award winning wine through the end of the month, order by the 17th for Thanksgiving delivery:
2008 Semillon from Fries Vineyard
2007 Columbia Valley Merlot
2007 Columbia Valley Syrah
1 of each for $65 (shipping included); 2 of each $125 (shipping included); 4 of each $235 (shipping included)

20 wines and the guests who faced the challenge of deciding the best. photography by Meredith Stein

Though the Cowboys suffered a devastating blow Monday night from the New York Giants (poor Romo), Texas wines plowed their competition – New York wines – at the 2010 Grape & Gridiron Classic. During the blind-tasting event, hosted by the Texas Department of Agriculture and held at the El Centro College Food & Hospitality Institute, 22 distinct state wines went glass-to-glass in celebration of the game. The final score: Texas: 8; New York: 3. Home field advantage? I think not!

Texas wine bloggers Jeff Siegel of the Wine Curmudgeon/ DrinkLocalWine.com, Russ Kane of VintageTexas, and Jim Trezise, president of the New York Wine and Grape Association led the tastings.

jump here for the final outcome…

“Wine is a wonderful, wonderful thing, and if we relegate ourselves to drinking the same wine over and over, we’re missing something,” Siegel told his audience of wine industry experts and media – Texans and NewYorkers alike. “The goal at drinklocalwine.com is to help the world realize that there’s wine made in 47 other states besides California, Washington, and Oregon. So an event like this is absolutely perfect for what we’re trying to do at drinklocalwine.com.”

Guests scored wines based on the basics of color, appearance, mouthfeel, etc

White wines led the charge with Texas’ Llano Estacado Unoaked Chardonnay 2009 and Brennan Vineyards Viognier 2009, and New York’s Dr. Konstantin Frank Semi-Dry Riesling 2009, which was also voted “New York Wine MVP,” emerging as the winners.

In the Hybrid/Native Varietal category, Texas’ own Haak Vineyards Blanc du Bois Semi-Dry 2010 took home the gold for a two-point lead. Texas’ McPherson Cellars Rosé of Syrah 2009 scored as both the rosé of choice and the crowd’s choice for Texas wine MVP.

Winners in the red wine division, which was separated into five categories, included Wagner Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2007 from New York, Duchman Family Winery Dolcetto 2008 of the Texas High Plains, Lone Oak Winery Tempranillo Lost Draw Vineyards 2008 (also of the Texas High Plains), Inwood Estate Vineyards Magellan 2006 (Go Texas!), and the Dry Comal Creek Vineyards Black Spanish 2008 from the Texas Hill Country.

In the final category – dessert wines – Wagner Vineyards Vidal Blanc Ice Wine 2008 took home the final point for New York. And it was no surprise. The wine was quite literally “liquid dessert,” as Diane Teitelbaum (of Diane Teitelbaum & Associates) referred to it.

Wine tasting. A spectator sport? Absolutely. And for Texas wines, what a Rangers-esque victory it was.

2006 Inwood Estates “Magellan”, Texas. This wine is a blend of the five Bordeaux varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot) and Tempranillo. However, Cabernet Sauvignon, being two-thirds of the total, dominates the blend. I first reviewed this wine a year ago, at which time I found it closed and unyielding. What a difference a year makes. Now it displays a pungent nose of dark fruit and a mouthful of jammy intense blackberry flavors. It has simultaneously fruitiness and minerality, a combination that is emerging as a characteristic of West Texas Cabernet. The wine is ndoubtedly New World–it is  fruity but does not have the lushness of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. It is aged in oak which produces more of a cedar than vanillin character.

After the ambiguity of last year, the Magellan is emerging as a well-rounded and complex wine. It will be interesting to see how it continues from here. It can be drunk now, ideally with fatty red meat such as well-marbled steak, but will soften if kept another 3-5 years.

This event has always sold out in the past so order quickly to avoid disappointment. Also, start early to avoid the afternoon crowds. There is food at each location and plenty of opportunity to talk to the winemakers.

Jump for the juicy details.

I have done this event a couple of times and it is fun. It is also eye opening, in several respects, as to what is going on with winemaking in Dallas, in particular, and Texas in general. However, an informed consumer is a prepared consumer and it is best to approach the event the same way you would approach any major combat operation – with suitable training in advance. If you fail to do so, you may miss some of the best things going on and taste something that isn’t what you thought it was. So here, ripped from the training manual of the 81^st Grape Airborne, are the key rules of the wine trail:

1. Thou Shalt Not Drink Any Wine That is Labeled “Vinted by…” or “Cellared by…” or “Bottled By…” or “Made and Bottled By…”

Usually you have to turn the bottle round as this information is on a small label at the back. Reason: The winery didn’t make the wine. According to The US Treasury’s Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (the Feds. responsible for enforcing Federal wine labeling law) “(v) Cellared, Vinted or Prepared means that the named winery, at the stated address, subjected the wine to cellar treatment in accordance with §4.22(c).” Cellar Treatment. What is that? Good question. It is any normal winemaking practice that takes place in a cellar, so it could be as little as storing the wine in the cellar for a few weeks prior to sale. No crushing of grapes, no controlled fermentation, no batonnage, no pumping over the juice to extract fruit, no selection of oak for aging, no treatment to deter spoilage. Just the placement of the finished bottles in the named winery’s cellar (and maybe the attachment of a label). Hardly fitting work for a wine maker. This stricture is especially important in Texas because seven out of every ten bottles of wine sold by Texas wineries are made outside Texas. They can’t call it Texas wine but they can sure make it look like Texas wine by putting the name of a Texas winery on the label and maybe the colors of the state flag as well. Or it can be in their range of wines, some of which are Texas wines. It is just ‘slipped in’. Better that a Texas winery that wants to legitimately make wines from grapes sourced outside Texas clearly indicate it, ideally with a separate label.

Those seven (out of every ten) out-of-state bottles, by the way, mainly come from California, where a huge wine surplus has generated a whole industry selling ‘private label’ wines to out-of-state wineries, restaurants, hotels, etc.

What one should look for is:

1)       Estate Bottled by… This means that the winery not only made 100% of the wine but also owned 100% of the vineyards from which the grapes came.

2)       Produced and Bottled by… which means that at least 75% of the wine in the bottle was fermented at the named winery (see the previous link for exact Federal Law). The grapes were not 100% internally sourced but rather purchased from growers. In practice, “Produced and Bottled Wines…” are as high quality as Estate Bottled wines as typically 100%, not 75%, of the wine is made at the named winery. The practical difference from Estate Bottled wines is that the grapes were purchased rather than grown. There are legitimate business reasons for this that enhance quality, as the skills required in viticulture (grape growing) are different from those required in vinification (winemaking). Wineries that buy grapes, far from hiding the fact, often put the name of the vineyard on the label as an indicator of quality.

2. Thou Shalt Not Drink Any Wine Labeled “For Sale in Texas Only.”

Reason: All the aforementioned Federal Law is intended to allow the consumer to know where the grapes came from and where the wine was made. The label phrase For Sale in Texas Only says that the wine may only be sold in Texas. It is a subterfuge to get around everything the Federal Law attempts to do. No longer does the source of grapes have to be declared. No longer does the place where the wine was made have to be declared (it may have only been labeled in Texas!). The intent of the law is to hide this from the consumer and this is an anti-consumer law. Many quality wine producers want it repealed and so should wine drinkers in Texas.

3. Tempranillo is The Best Texas Red Grape and It Grows Best in West Texas.

Look especially for High Plains AVA (American Viticultural Area). Any wine labeled with an AVA must have at least 85% of its grapes from that area.

Other red grapes that do well are Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah (other Rhone varieties also show promise) and Lenoir (aka Black Spanish) for late harvest wines.

4. Viognier is The Best Texas White Grape.

In fact, it does so well in north-central Texas (e.g. Newburg) that Texas Viognier can be blind-tasted against West Coast examples without embarrassment.

Forget Chardonnay. There has never been a good one from Texas. Other promising white varieties are Muscat Canelli and Blanc du Bois. I think there is a lot more experimentation to be done in the next few years with white varieties from such places as the southern Rhone, Portugal, Spain, Italy and Greece.