May is Oregon wine month…who knew? Celebrate one of the best as Grace Restaurant hosts Domaine Serene on May 24th for the unveiling of the new Domaine Serene Grand Cheval.  From what I understand it is a blend of their stunning Willamette Valley Pinot Noir with Syrah, a beef and potatoes wine with complexity and character.  Domaine Serene Southeast Sales Manager, Ginger Dollins, will be on hand to walk guests through the tasting of Domaine Serene’s beautiful wines paired with a succulent menu prepared by Chef Blaine Staniford.  More information and reservations available at 817-877-3388.  Full menu and pairings here. If you can’t make it out to Ft. Worth on the 24th join Master Sommelier Melissa Monosoff at Maximo Cocina Mexicanafor an Orin Swift wine dinner featuring the racy, interesting blends the winery has become known for – Prisoner, Abstract, Mannequin and Papillion.  Call 972-233-5656 for reservations.

The monthly “come as you are” wine dinner at The Grape will always please a wine loving palate.  May 30th Chef/Owner Brian Luscher and Sommelier/GM Courtney Luscher welcome Travis James from Favorite Brands for the introduction of the new wines from Pierre Henri Morel, longtime winery manager for Michel Chapoutier in the Chateauneuf du Pape region of the Southern Rhone Valley.  As always you can come any time you like between 5:30 and 9, and the pairings are always spot on and delicious. Call 214-828-1981 for reservations.

If your spirit of choice is vodka Wednesday is your lucky day.  From 6p-8p on the 23rd at Sigel’s – Greenville 75 distinct and different vodkas from around the world will be available to try and buy at discounted prices.  Reservations required, 214-739-4012.

Jimmy's salumi and formaggio plate Served at the Damilano Barolo tasting event.

Dan Redman is lucky salesman. He sells Damilano wine from the Piedmont region of Italy. His biggest problem is not selling wine. The biggest bump in his job is that he never has enough wine to sell. Last week Dan’s Mosaic Wine Group brought  Brand Manager, Barbara Levi Cavaglione, to Dallas to showcase the wines. It was the last stop of her 7- day 6-city tour. I was an invited guest at the tasting, which took place at the Dallas epicenter of Italian wine: Jimmy’s Food Store.

You can’t be a Piedmontese wine producer without being judged on your Barolo, the the king of Italian wines. It projects Italian viticulture more than any other wine. Basically the wine is 100% Nebbiolo grape which is grown in or near the small town of Barolo. Despite countless attempts, no other place in the world has succeeded in growing Nebbiolo that tastes like a Nebbiolo grape from this region. Every once in a while, someone succeeds for a year but then the product disappears. Last time I checked, Hunter Hammett, the eagle-eyed sommelier at the Pyramid Restaurant, had an Argentinean Nebbiolo that was a ringer for a Barolo on his wine list, but his inventory was down to half a dozen bottles.

Dan Redman and Barbara Levi Cavaglione discuss The Damilano Wines

Damilano’s portfolio is rich in Barolo. It is 70% of their production and the jewel in the crown is a 34-acre vineyard named Cannubi. It’s ownership is shared among some 20 producers. Damilano acquired their first shareholding in 1935 and now controls two thirds of the acreage. They served their 2006 to a packed house at Jimmy’s. The wine is intense in the nose and the mouth with earthy notes in the nose. It can be enjoyed now (we ate it with Jimmy’s cinghiale sausage) but will keep for 15-20 more years, based on previous vintages. At $80 it is a wine to collect, but you don’t have to spend that much on an authentic Nebbiolo to drink tonight. Damilano Nebbiolo d’Alba absolutely exudes a footprint of how great Nebbiolo should taste and is available for $15 at Jimmy’s. I’m pleased to see more ‘ordinary’ Nebbiolo wines appearing on the market to make this unique grape more accessible to consumers. I’m just puzzled why it does not grow outside Piedmont.

Footnote: That food, including the sausage, and the wines for this tasting was only $25+tax per person. An amazing bargain. Check Jimmy’s web site to get notices about future tastings.

[Ed's Note: We corrected our spelling of "Damilano."]

Morlanda Vineyards in Priorat

When I was first learning about and drinking wine I remember trying a Tempranillo from Rioja and thinking that was the wine of Spain. Yes, rather naive, like someone from Spain thinking all wine from the U.S. came from Napa, but at the time wine from Rioja was popular and easy to find, more so than some of the other regions in the country. Now, after years of tasting and enjoying wine from throughout the diverse wine regions of Spain I have learned that great Spanish wine reaches beyond that first glass of Rioja I enjoyed.

Winemakers from throughout Spain have recently been in town to meet with members of the wine trade to taste selections from Spain’s increasingly popular Priorat, Ribera Del Duero, Monstant, Penedes, La Mancha and Jerez regions. I was an invited guest to a few tastings.  I also had a chance to visit the Priorat region on my recent media visit to the country.  Here are some to look for if you are in the mood for a great Spanish wine.

Over lunch on the patio of Saint Ann importer Steve Miles and several of his winemakers from throughout Spain described the  interest and excitement that fuels them in the production of their mineral rich white wines and their fruit forward and often earthy reds, as well as a few high end sherries from Bodegas Tradicion in Jerez.

Acoustic Cellars Winemaker Albert Jane

Acoustic Cellars is making interesting wines from Montsant,  the region just surrounding Priorat on the north-eastern edge of the country, where winemaker/proprietor Albert Jane makes wine that push the boundaries of what the region typically produces.  His “unplugged” attitude and ideas have led him to create mineral rich, balanced wine from vines ranging from 25 – 100+ years old.  The Acoustic Blanc blends indigenous white grapes from the region for a citrus and mineral filled wine crafted from Garnacha Blanc, Macabeo, Garnacha Gris and Pansal.  The Acustic Auditori is 100% Garnacha from hand harvested estate fruit and aged 12 months in French oak.  Cherry, strawberry and red licorice fill the palate with herbal notes of fresh rosemary and sage with touches of sweet baking spice.  I tried the 2009, which was good now but will benefit from a few years of aging.

For sherry lovers Bodegas Tradicion proudly produces all of their sherries in house without fining or filtering, maintaining the best flavor for their sherries.  All are aged a minimum of 20 years, with most aged around 40.  Their Palo Cortado is 100% Palomino Fino and aged 41+ years.  An incredibly dry and slightly salty sherry on the palate, but with aromas of sweet orange peel, toasted nuts and spice.  A delicious aperitif served with hard, aged cheese, roasted almonds and salty ham.

Ribera del Duero takes the Tempranillo grape to a new level with their aged Reserva and Gran Reserva wines.  Located north of Madrid in the Duero River Valley with high elevations (averaging 2500-2800 feet above sea level), creating very hot summers, cold winters, with temperatures averaging 100 degrees during the day in the summer, while dipping to 50 degrees at night.  Ideal growing conditions.  Though their Joven or Cosecha wines are light, fruit forward and juicy without much age or use of oak are good palate pleasers for sipping on their own, the real stars of the region come from the wines aged 3+ years.  The Reserva wines are aged at least 3 years with a minimum of one year in the barrel; Gran Reserva wines are only made when the grapes for that year show outstanding quality, and are aged a minimum of five years, two years minimum in barrel. These are the wines that show the structure, complexity and balance that define great red from Ribera del Duero. At a tasting held by Drink Ribera, Drink Spain I tried several wines that are currently available in the area, as well as a few looking for distribution.

For those with distribution and available in Dallas the Vega Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva 2000 blew my socks off.   92% Tempranillo with 8% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in to add a bit of depth to the wine filled with spice, black fruit and black licorice and cigar notes. Well balanced, interesting and bold, a wine with personality and ready to be enjoyed.

Another option, and a little more reasonably priced, was found with the Valduero 2005 Reserva, 100% Tempranillo aged 30 months in barrel then 18 months in bottle. Filled with red cherry, leather and coffee with layers of earthiness and herbal notes this is a good food wine that will pair with anything from grilled steaks to roast lamb with herbs to charcuterie.

A wine looking for an importer and distributor was Vitivinicola de Valbuena for their CarMe wine.  A small family owned winery established on the grounds of the family farmhouse in Valbuena de Duero, with the fruit for their 30,000 bottle production coming from their estate.  Their Joven is very young, fruit forward and juicy.  A wine to show the range of Tempranillo with youthful notes meant to be enjoyed just after bottling, good for pairing with grilled pizza and light salads.

The wine of Priorat continues to show wine lovers how great Garnacha and Cariñena grown in poor, dry soil with stressed vines fighting for nutrients and water can be.
I recently visited Morlanda winery, a part of the Heredad Collection of wines under the Ferrer family portfolio, tasting their small production wines from the barrel, the tank and in the bottle.  Barrel tasting is always so interesting because you can get a general sense of how the wine will end up as the fruit profile will be there, and you are able to really understand the effects barrel aging often has on the wine, adding flavors and aromas of spice, toast, chocolate, etc.  Morlanda only produces wine from vines grown on their estate from grapes indigenous to the region as well as a few red Bordeaux varietals.

Barrel tasting with Morlanda Winemaker Judit Llop

The barrel tasting showed how ripe and delicious the fruit for their Morlanda wine is; but it couldn’t beat the wine in the bottle after full barrel aging and resting 6 months in the bottle.  A blend of 50% Garnacha and 50% Cariñena, this wine is dense, complex and balanced with expressive blackberry, licorice, mocha, espresso and subtle earthiness with a smooth and enjoyable finish.

Scheduled Master Sommeliers include James Tidwell, Drew Hendricks, Wayne Belding, Brett Zimmerman, Guy Stout, Tim Gaiser, Laura Williamson, Keith Goldston, Nate Ready, Melissa Monosoff, Brian Cronin, Cameron  Douglas, John Szabo, Geoff Kruth, Laura DePasquale, Jay Fletcher, Andrew McNamara, Peter Neptune and Greg Harrington. The speaker lineup also includes James Beard Award Winners Rajat Parr and Paul Grieco, Master of wine Christy Canterbury, wine marketer Paul Wagner, Union Square Hospitality Group Wine Director John Ragan, and Leonetti Cellar Owner Chris Figgins.

The seminar topics, times, and various ticket prices are listed below. For more information or to register, click here. Like, fast.

You can be a sommelier like this Guy!

In addition to the seminar schedule, the Texas’ Best Sommelier competition runs behind the scenes. The prize for the winner includes scholarship money to be used for a Court of Master Sommeliers’ certification program. The winning sommelier will be announced at the Grand Tasting on Monday, August 13, which will include 150 world-class wines and hors d’oeuvres from Four Seasons Executive Chef Christof Syre.

CONFERENCE CALENDAR
Saturday, August 11-—Pre-conference tasting and social media boot camp
9:00am to 3:00pm
TASTING TRACK
9:00am –12:00pm:      Tasting Workshop: Understanding the Process of tasting—led select Master Sommeliers (TBD)
12:00 – 1:00pm:           Lunch (not included in admission)
1:00 – 3:00pm:            The Kimmeridgian Chain—led by Wayne Belding MS
SOCIAL MEDIA TRACK
9:00am –12:00pm:      Social Media Boot camp—led by blogger Tony Jones
12:00 –1:00pm:           Lunch (not included in admission)
1:00 –3:00pm:             Engaging People with Social Media—led by social media expert Rick Bakas

***Seminars are open to the public. Saturday passes cost $50 per person and include access to either the Tasting Track or Social Media Track (attendees are not permitted to interchange track offerings). Please note lunch is not included with admission.

Sunday, August 12
9:00am to 5:00pm—Educational seminars on contemporary issues to include:
•         Bordeaux—led by Wayne Belding MS and Brett Zimmerman MS
•         Texas Terroir—led by Guy Stout MS and Christy Canterbury MW
•         Riesling—led by Tim Gaiser MS, Laura Williamson MS, Paul Grieco and Keith Goldston MS
•         Oregon—led by Nate Ready, MS
•         Beer—led by Melissa Monosoff MS and Brian Cronin MS

***Seminars are open to the public. Sunday passes cost $175 per person and include lunch. Sunday and Monday passes are available at a discounted price of $225. Each class features at least eight wines to taste and lasts one hour and fifteen minutes. Seating is limited to 50 participants per seminar.
Although open to the public, these seminars are also appropriate for those working in the industry— such as distributor representatives, sommeliers, restaurant managers and servers.

Monday, August 13
9:00am to 5:00pm—Educational seminars on contemporary issues to include:
•         State of the Industry—led by Moderator James Tidwell MS and panel members
Drew Hendricks MS, Paul Wagner, Rajat Parr, John Ragan, Rick Bakas
•         New Zealand: Trends for the Future—led by Cameron Douglas MS and Andrew McNamara MS
•         Niagara Peninsula—led by John Szabo MS and Geoff Kruth MS
•         Cabernet Franc—led by Laura DePasquale MS, Jay Fletcher MS and Peter Neptune MS
•         Winery Retrospective: Leonetti Cellar—led by Chris Figgins and Greg Harrington MS

*** Monday, April 13 courses deliver industry-specific material and thus are only open to the trade. Each seminar features at least eight wines to taste and lasts one hour and fifteen minutes. Monday passes cost $75 per person and include lunch. Sunday and Monday passes are available at a discounted price of $225. Seating is limited to 50 participants per seminar.
6:00 to 7:00pm—Wine Pre-Reception
7:00 to 8:30pm—Grand Tasting and Texas’ Best Sommelier 2012 Announcement Ceremony
***Open to the public. Tickets cost $95 per person.  Attendance to the Grand Tasting is included in the multi-day pass.

***Complete package tickets including Sunday and Monday passes and Grand Tasting tickets can be purchased for $300

INFORMATION: TEXSOM will be held on August 12-13, 2012 at the Four Seasons Resort and Club at Las Colinas in Irving, Texas, between Dallas and Fort Worth a pre-conference tasting and social media boot camp will be held Saturday August 11. For more details and conference registration information, please visit www.texsom.com.
FOR MEDIA INQUIRIES: For media interested in attending or covering TEXSOM 2012, please contact Keely Garibaldi at C. Milan Communications, keely@cmilancomm.com or 415.392.6600.
ABOUT TEXSOM

TEXSOM and the Texas’ Best Sommelier Competition were founded by James Tidwell, MS, CWE, Sommelier at the Four Seasons Resort and Club in Las Colinas and Drew Hendricks, MS, CWE, Director of Beverage Education for Pappas Restaurants in Houston. Presented by the not-for-profit organizations, the Texas Sommelier Association and the Wine and Food Foundation of Texas, TEXSOM is the only event of its kind in the world. Since its inception in 2005, it has attracted more than 1,500 wine professionals, and more than 160 Texas sommeliers have competed.

ABOUT THE TEXAS SOMMELIER ASSOCIATION
The Texas Sommelier Association is a trade association comprised of Texas wine professionals. The Association promotes professional wine service standards, outlines paths for further wine education and certification, and raises public awareness about the professional standards and certifications for sommeliers. The organization sponsors the “Texas’ Best Sommelier” competition, with the winner being awarded scholarships for professional certification courses. This competition is held behind the scenes during the TEXSOM conference. For more information, visit www.texsom.com.

ABOUT THE WINE AND FOOD FOUNDATION OF TEXAS
The Wine & Food Foundation of Texas was established to connect its members and the general public with the value, creativity and craftsmanship inherently present in the culinary and viticulture arts. This mission is fulfilled by funding grants, scholarships and research aimed at elevating the quality, awareness and enjoyment of good food and fine wine as well as hosting education and social events that enhance the quality of life for members and communities. These programs offer unique opportunities to enrich the minds and palates of guests, who in turn can relate their experience with friends sharing common interests. For more information, visit www.winefoodfoundation.org.

Can a rum be good enough to sip on its own like you might a scotch or tequila?

Brugal Rum thinks so, and I spent the past week in the Dominican Republic, home of Brugal, experiencing how. I say experience instead of simply saying I tasted or learned about Brugal, because to be a part of Brugal, tasting the product, meeting the people (many who are 4th and 5th generation, or have been with the company 30+ years), and understanding the process is so much more than simply seeing how their product is made. It was the joyful culmination of the Dominican Republic spirit, as the country, the culture, the tradition, the people, the plentiful sugar cane, and the stunning waters of the Caribbean are as much a part of Brugal as the rum. As they say, “it is a country where conversations start with a bottle in hand and not a cell phone.”  I was an invited guest of the company to see first hand how this spirit is made, traveling from one end of the country to the other to experience Brugal.
Brugal is a company dedicated to mastering the creation of what they proudly say is the best, and driest, rum in the world. It is the most important element of Brugal.

When you think rum, “dry” isn’t usually the idea that comes to mind, it is a spirit made from sugar cane after all. But, through multiple distillations and very close product control, Brugal has managed to create an ultra light rum, which also means its base alcohol level is ultra high (95%) and thus ultra dry. It is also the only rum product in the country to be made completely in the D.R., starting in the city that is as known as much for their professional baseball players as they are for their sugar cane, San Pedro de Macorís, the home of Sammy Sosa, George Bell, Robinson Cano, our own Alexi Ogando, relief pitcher for the Rangers, and lots and lots of sugar cane.

Founded by Andres Brugal Montaner, Brugal has been making their crisp and clean rum since 1888 when the Spanish born Montaner immigrated from Spain to Cuba and eventually the D.R., setting up his home in Puerto Plata where the company headquarters remain today. Originally the product wasn’t as dry as it is today, but modern technology changing from cooper stills to column distillation tanks allowed them evolve to creating this clean, dry beverage that has made Brugal the number one rum from the Dominican Republic.

Why so dry?  Brugal is focused on ensuring that the rum that goes into their oak casks, mostly medium toast white American oak that has been previously used for Bourbon, is completely flavor free. A dry rum is not sweet, it is ultra light and relatively free of aromas except for hints of floral and citrus notes.  Creating a clean alcohol will allow easy absorption of the flavors and aromas the oak gives off, instead of just being sweet.

Hand harvesting sugar cane.

The process is detailed, but relatively simple, just like making any spirit. You start in the fields harvesting the plentiful sugar cane available in and around San Pedro de Macorís, in the Southern part of the country. Brugal doesn’t own the sugar cane fields, but they have an exclusive agreement with the farmers for their molasses. Sugar cane grows all year, which means it can be harvested all year, and rejuvenates itself without replanting. It can be harvested after 7 months, but most farmers wait about 9 months until the sugar cane is 10-12 feet high. Though mechanical harvesting is becoming increasingly popular due to the economics of it, but hand harvested sugar cane, chopping the sugar cane at the base with a machete, is best for the plant and its reproduction, as well as the product, as the juiciest sugar is located at the base of the plant where most mechanical harvesters can’t get to. After harvest the sugar cane is moved to the sugar refineries to be made into crystallized sugar.

Fresh molasses created from Dominican sugar cane.

The bi-product of this is molasses. The sugar companies can’t use this, so the rum companies benefit as the base molasses product will eventually be turned into rum after fermentation, distillation and aging. The fermentation and distillation process takes about 45 total hours, with fermentation lasting 36-40 hours. This is where Brugal sets themselves a part from some rum producers, with a double distillation,  first to 90% alcohol, then a second distillation to 95% alcohol.  The Brugal facility in San Pedro can make up to 75,000 liters of 95% alcohol each day.

The process is continual and consistent, even during the rainy season (about 3 months starting in mid-June or July) when the sugar cane factories stop running because the fields are too muddy to harvest. During this time Brugal will process molasses they hold in reserve, keeping their distillation plant running throughout the year.  At the end of the distillation the alcohol is sent in trucks to Puerto Plata for aging and bottling.  An average of two semi-trucks are sent each day.

Rum filled Brugal trucks arriving in Puerto Plata for aging and bottling.

By law, the rum has to be aged in barrels for at least one year. Brugal ages even their lightest rums slightly more than this, with their premium 1888 and Siglo de Oro Rums aged 14-16 years, using a double barrel aging technique where the rum is first aged in American white oak for 6-8 years, then transferred to either Sherry oak casks or different American oak casks for another 4-8 years, then blended, stabilized and filtered before bottling.  The result, an ultra smooth spirit which tastes light and refreshing, without a high alcohol burn or excessive sweetness.  Unfortunately the Siglo de Oro is not available in the U.S.; happily the 1888 became available in October of 2011.

Each Brugal barrel is tagged with a sheet from the government noting when the barrel went into the warehouse, how long it should age, etc.

Each step of this is closely managed by both the team at Brugal, as well as the government, as the regulations on the creation of rum, the aging process, barrels used, etc. in the Dominican Republic are closely watched and taxed by their government.  The government actually holds the keys to the warehouses where Brugal rum is aged; they lock the doors when the rum goes in and do not open them until the agreed upon time frame for aging has reached completion.  Even the Brugal Master Blenders are not allowed in to check the casks; my group was given special access just to see the room where the casks are aged for our trip, but our time was limited and obtaining permission was nearly impossible.  This regulation ensures the standards set out within the rum industry are upheld by all.

Don Fernando and Don Guillermo

After visiting the distillation facility in Sn Pedro and then traveling to Puerto Plata for the tour of the aging and bottling facility we had an opportunity to taste through the Brugal portfolio of rums with two of the 4th generation Brugal Master Blenders, Don Fernando Ortega Brugal and Don Guillermo Abbott Brugal, and one 5th generation, Jassil L. Villanueva, still in the midst of her training.  Our tasting started with their Blanco, their Anejo, their Extra Viejo and finally the 1888.

Double filtered, the 40 proof Blanco is the perfect accompaniment to a Cuba Libre (rum and coke) or Santa Libre (rum and lemon-lime soda) both with a squeeze of lime over ice. In early summer a new white rum will be introduced to the U.S. called Especial Exra Dry, triple filtered, clean and incredibly smooth this was enjoyed simply with a splash of club soda and a few limes.  If a vodka soda is your drink of choice give this a try when it hits the market, it may turn you into a rum drinker.  It turned me into one.

The Anejo is a great option for those looking for a rounder, more flavorful rum that is perfect for mixing with pineapple or mango juice with a splash of coconut water for a cocktail that will instantly transport you to your favorite beach.  Aged 2-5 years the spice notes of the oak mixed with orange peel and toast mingle throughout the smooth rum.

When Brugal made their Extra Viejo in 1976 they joined the club of premium rum brands, which has been further extended by their 1888 and Siglo de Oro.  The Extra Viejo is aged 3 to 8 years, giving a rich amber color with aromas of orange peel, spice, vanilla and almond.  The ideal way to enjoy the flavors of this rum is sipping over ice with an orange twist allowing the citrus and floral aromas of the rum to pop, with notes of toasted brioche, vanilla and baking spice on the finish.

Brugal 1888 rum was first introduced in 1988 as a centennial rum celebrating the 100th anniversary of Brugal. Though the Maestros, including Don Guillermo and Don Fernando, knew this was a special product they wanted to do more, eventually relaunching the product that we have today, a rum that is aged first in American oak for 6-8 years then in oak casks previously used for Oloroso Sherry for another 4-6 years, creating a flavor profile that reminds you more of a cognac or a scotch than a rum.  Filled with raisins, orange blossoms, chocolate, toast and coffee the 1888 verifies that a rum can be made for sipping, perfect served neat or over ice.

Kids at the George Arenzo Brugal Educational Center created by the Brugal Foundation

Creating great rum isn’t the only thing important to Brugal, as the people, the culture, the traditions and the country are also a big part of the company, so much so that they started a non-profit foundation funded by annual contributions from profits made by Brugal and by members of the Brugal family to help improve the quality of life in the Dominican Republic.
We had an opportunity to visit the George Arzeno Brugal Education Center in Puerto Plata, dedicated to Brugal’s late president and dedicated to educating, mentoring and guiding children from a relatively poor part of the city to ensure they have the best chance of future success in the country.  The kids were adorable, and the teachers were gracious and kind, like many I met throughout the week.  This was my first visit to the Dominican Republic; it won’t be my last.

Jump for tasting notes:

Inama Soave Clasicco is probably my favorite of the Soave wines I have tried. 100% Garganega filled with nutty almond, fresh white flowers, apricot and lemon balm with touches of clean minerality.

Bertani Sereole Soave is made from 100% Garganega grapes grown in volcanic soils, aged 6 months in oak and 3 months in the bottle, producing a wine filled with fresh wild flowers and stone fruit on the open, followed by tropical fruit flavors of pineapple and banana.

Suavia Soave Classico blends 95% Garganega with 5% Trebbiano di Soave which is aged 4 months in stainless steel to keep the wine light, fresh and fruit filled. Green apple, peach and ripe pear fill the palate with each sip layered with earthy mineral notes.

Bolla has been one of the largest producers of wine in Italy for over 125 years, and this one displays the delicate touch the winery has had with their wines since they started. Soave DOC opens with aromas of honey suckle, melon, crisp apple and honey followed by flavors of ripe pear, honeydew and citrus. This is a wine meant to be enjoyed young, displaying bright, fresh flavors.

Lulu B has created a whole line of pre-mixed cocktails made from high quality spirits and flavors each with less than 50 calories per serving (a serving is 1.5 oz). They are good, though, and delicious simply served over ice.  My favorite of the line is the Lulu B. Mojito made from light rum, natural mint and lime, with 37 calories per serving.  I poured two servings (3 ounces) into a rocks glass over ice and added club soda and a squeeze of fresh lime. It’s less than 80 delicious calories and great for sipping poolside.  Other flavors include CranCosmo, 38 calories per serving; Margarita, 38 calories per serving; and Chocolate Martini, 48 calories per serving, but just as good as a bowl of chocolate ice cream but with a 15% alcohol. Available at various Goody-Goody locations.

As Carol noted last week, another ready to drink brand has just launched in Texas from Fort Worth native Britt West, Co- Founder, Eppa Wine Company.  Eppa Superfruit Sangria is a completely organic cocktail made from Organic Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah grapes from California’s Mendocino County blended with juice from organically grown pomegranates, blueberries, Mediterranean blood oranges, acai berries, and natural citrus essences.  The focus for the brand was to create a beverage that would appeal to wine lovers, those focused on a healthy lifestyle and people who were simply looking for an all natural beverage that still delivers a little bit of a kick.  At just 120 calories per 5 ounce serving, this sangria is available at various Whole Foods locations.

And, we can’t forget the queen of skinny cocktails, the Skinny Girl, who has also recently gotten into the wine biz with her Skinny Wine.  I will stick to her cocktails, though.  I recently tried the White Cranberry Cosmo with vodka, Triple Sec and white cranberry, and a touch of lime juice.  I liked it. It wasn’t too sweet, too fruity or too strong (all attributes in a traditional Cosmo), but easy to enjoy anytime of day.  100 calories per 4 ounce serving. Available at various Sigel’s locations.

For mixing your own cocktails, these options each come in at less than 200 calories each.

You can still have your margarita, just with half the calories.  This one comes from Cointreau mixologist, Kyle Ford.

Margarita Fizz
3/4 oz. Blanco Tequila
3/4 oz. Cointreau
3/4 oz. Fresh Lime Juice
Club Soda
Lime wheel
Directions – Combine first three ingredients in shaker and shake for about 10 second. Strain into an ice filled Collins glass.  Top with Club Soda.  Garnish with a lime wheel. 130 calories.

The Cool & Skinny
1 oz Lucid Absinthe
3 oz fresh brewed peach tea
1/3 tsp. Orange Blossom Honey
5 Mint Leaves
2 oz of diet ginger ale
Slice of fresh white peach
Directions – Muddle the Orange Blossom Honey and the mint leaves.  Add Lucid and the fresh brewed peach tea.  Shake in a cocktail shaker with ice and strain into a rocks glass over ice.  Top with diet ginger ale and garnish with a slice of white peach. 120 calories.

Skinny Local
2 oz Camarena Silver Tequila
1/2 of a Lemon, Quartered
8 Mint Leaves
1 tablespoon of Sugar Free Sweetener
3 oz Soda Water
Directions – Muddle lemon, mint and sweetener in a mixing glass. Add tequila and ice. Shake and pour all contents of shaker into a tall glass. Top with soda water and stir gently. Garnish with a lemon wedge. 120 calories.

Refresher Cocktail
2 oz Russian Standard Vodka
2 oz Coconut Water
1 oz lemon juice
.5 oz agave nectar
8 grapes
Directions – Shake Russian Standard Vodka, Coconut Water, lemon juice and agave nectar with ice.  Strain into a chilled martini glass and drape grapes over the rim. 180 calories.

Cabana Boy
2 oz. TY KU Citrus Liqueur (made from the Asian spirit Soju with yuzu, mangostein, Goji berry, honeydew and green tea)
2 slices of Jalapenos, ribs and seeds removed
2 slices of peeled ginger
Directions – Add the ginger and pepper to a shaker and muddle together. Add the TY KU with ice and shake until very cold.  Strain into a rocks glass over ice. 86 calories.

Skinny Shandy
8 oz light lager beer, like Heineken Light or Amstel Light
4 oz lemon flavored setlzer water
Squeeze fresh lemon
Directions – Pour the beer and seltzer over ice in a tall glass, garnish with a sqeeze of fresh lemon.  Less than 100 calories.

Or, keep it simple and pour yourself a 4 ounce glass of your favorite bubbly for just 85 calories each.

Edible Dallas' table (left); Dean Fearing honored for his support of local farm growers (right) photos by Elizabeth Lavin

Lee Park was the place to be last Sunday. Over 1,000 people showed up for sold-out Mixin’ It Up On The Boulevard, a massive food event organized by Chefs For Farmers. The two women credited with pulling together all of the details are Iris McCallister and Christina LaBarba. This dynamic duo coordinated over 40 chefs, 20 farmers, wineries, breweries, mixologists, and artisan producers and pulled off what appeared to be a flawless afternoon of celebration. Chefs for Farmers, a group that supports local farmers, chefs, and businesses, donated 100 percent of the proceeds to Meal On Wheels of Tarrant County and Water for Chizavane.

Each chef was paired with a local vendor. Guests were encouraged to make donations at each station to help them raise money for an item (refrigerator, etc) the vendor was trying to buy. The chef list was impressive: Fearing, Pyles, Rathbun, Derry, Natera, Houser, Provost, Harris, McCallister, to name only a few. The public sampled the food, talked to the participants, and listened to DJ sounds and the band Sugarfoote & Co. At one point Dean Fearing took the microphone and sang along. Elizabeth Lavin captured the day with her Nikon.

Jump for her shots.

Stephen Pyles' Bay of Salmon Confit: Rocky's Turnips, Purple Hulls and Manchego "Chicharron"

Texas Honeybee Guild (left); Dude Sweet Chocolate's messed up ice cream float with foie gras caramel and cocoa nib ice cream (right)

Kent Rathbun honored for his outstanding community outreach and support of local growers

John Tesar's shrimp risotto (left); John Tesar (right)

Texas olive oil

Sissy's cobbler (left); Dive's ceviche with striped bass, marinated in lime juice, mango, cilantro, red onion, jalapeno, and tomato with housemade plantain chips

Al Havens, Anastacia Quinones and Abraham Salum from Salum (left); Dragonfly's duck prosciutto (right)

Wolfgang Puck's donated dessert course: Vanilla bean panna cotta with a blueberry shot + blueberry white cheddar crumble (photos by Carol Shih)

John Cox, Ray Skradzinski, Oliver Sitrin, and Heather Dorris may not be names that trip off your tongue. But if history is any guide they will be big-name chefs in Dallas in the next few years. They were the four winners in this year’s Rising Star Chefs Contest: Heather Darris (Bolla), Oliver Sitrin (Marquee), Ray Skradzinski (Five-Sixty by Wolfgang Puck), and John Cox (Hyatt Regency) Former winners have included Andre Natera (now execuchef at The Pyramid Restaurant), J. Chastain (now sous chef at The Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek), Omar Flores (now execuchef at Driftwood) and Anthony Bombaci (now execuchef at Nana).

Jump for photos and the rest of the story.

This year’s winners presented their dishes to a banquet of paying customers at their awards dinner held as part of the 2012 Dallas Wine and Food Festival last night. The sold out event was held at in a packed dining room at the Nasher Sculpture Center. Emcee Gary Cogill introduced videos of each chef in action while guests dined on a meal prepared by the chefs consisting of each of their winning dishes plus a dessert from Wolfgang Puck Catering (who provide catering to The Nasher). Sponsors ‘d’Arenberg and and Lilikanoon provided the wine. For a full list of the many sponsors involved see here.

See the photo show below for the food in all its glory!

John Cox's pan seared halibut, venison sausage, English pea, roasted poblano fricassee with Buerre Blanc

Ray Skradzinski's pan roasted pork tenderloin, trio of cauliflower black pepper blood orange sauce with marjoram

The winners of the Rising Star Chefs' Contest: Heather Darris (Bolla), Oliver Sitrin (Marquee), John Cox (Hyatt Regency), and Ray Skradzinski (Five-Sixty by Wolfgang Puck)

Oliver Sitrin's steak moutarde with parsnips and brussels sprouts

Heather Darris' pan roasted boneless lamb rack, yellow curry puree, sweet apple relish, and spinach beech mushrooms

New Zealand is considered to be a young wine region, they really only got started making wine in the 1950’s, preferring at the time to drink beer, tea, sherry and port instead of still, dry wine.  They did, however, have a massive farming and ranching industry, particularly with cattle and sheep (there are 4 million people in New Zealand, 30 million sheep.)  Early winemakers knew that the land was fertile, the nights were cool and the days were hot, and the maritime climate on the coast of New Zealand was conducive to growing wine grapes that could eventually produce interesting wine with acidity, freshness and distinct character.  Villa Maria Estate was one of those wineries.  Villa Maria founder Sir George Fistonich and General Manager Winemaking and Viticulture, Alastair Maling, MW, were in Dallas yesterday to hold a 50th anniversary tasting and luncheon at the Warwick Melrose.  I was an invited guest to the celebration.

Started in 1961, with their first vintage in 1962, Villa Maria started out of the passion and desire of Sir George to do something different and branch out of the ordinary in his life.  He had just completed his training to go into the carpentry field, as working in a trade was what was expected out of the middle child in a family with strong Croatian roots in those days, but wanted to do something different, something more with his life.  He had developed a loved for the taste and flavors found in wine since he was a young man growing up in a Croatian household that enjoyed wine often.  He also knew he wanted to make quality wine unlike anything that was currently being produced in New Zealand, and if the quality of the wine was there he could convince people to try it.

Sir George Fistonich, Founder of Villa Maria Estate

Starting small he planted various varietals to see what would work on the 5 acres of land Sir George leased from his father, eventually gravitating towards the production of Sauvignon Blanc, a popular choice as 75% of all wine grown in New Zealand today is Sauvignon Blanc.  Sir George didn’t simply want to bottle Sauvignon Blanc though, he wanted to bottle the best, and eventually started working with the various growers and vineyard owners they bought grapes from on their quality, changing contracts around to give a better price for lower quantity, but better quality fruit. They also began to expand, opening the first winery restaurant in the Hawke’s Bay region to pair wine with food; buying the Hawkes Bay Winery in a warmer part of the country which allowed them to begin making Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay; and began to employ viticulturists to help with the quality of their vineyards, one of the first wineries in New Zealand to do this.

Though not always easy, careful focus and unyielding determination has led Villa Maria to become one of the 50 great wine producers in the world, as noted by Wine Spectator in 2004; New World Winery of the Year in 2007 by Wine Enthusiast and multiple top wine producer awards for New Zealand by various publications, even with every bottle of wine coming out of the winery enclosed with a screwcap. And their acclaim is well earned, Villa Maria wines have character, texture and balance with good acidity, a velvety palate and intense flavors.

Tomato Gazpacho Shooter with Rock Shrimp with a 2011 Villa Maria Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc

Tasting through the selections the first thing became very obvious, not all Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough is the same.  Just like you wouldn’t call all Cabernet from Napa the same, the various districts within the Marlborough region give different characteristics and flavors to the wine.  We tried four different Sauvignon Blanc wines from Marlborough, each quite different, starting with their introductory level 2011 Private Bin Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.  I liked this wine, filled with balanced citrus and tropical fruit notes.  The majority of Sauvignon Blanc fruit comes from the Wairau Valley of Marlbrorough, which is slightly warmer than other parts of the valley, helping the fruit get very ripe and juicy before picking. An easy drinking wine great for sipping on its own. Their second tier Cellar Selection Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has the majority of fruit coming from Awatere Valley, in a slightly cooler, more southern part of Marlborough, giving greener, more herbaceous and mineral notes to the wine, with layers of gooseberry and passionfruit and racy acidity.  My favorite of the Sauvignon Blancs we tasted was the 2009 Reserve Wairau Sauvignon Blanc.  I do like a wine with a little age on it, and though no oak is used in the wine, a few years of bottle aging added depth and texture to the wine filled with herbal, slightly earthy aromas and flavors of citrus, gooseberry and melon.

Though still relatively new on the scene in New Zealand (within the past 20-30 years) Pinot Noir is making its mark as the next best thing to come from the country, with Pinot Noir as the second most planted grape, predominantly found in the southern party of the country throughout Marlborough, Waipara Valley and Central Otago.  Villa Maria’s grapes are coming from vines which are about 20 years old, so they are still young and still need time to develop to their full potential, but they are producing solid, approachable and very drinkable Pinot Noir now.  Their 2010 Private Bin Marlborough Pinot Noir is a good introductory Pinot Noir, with tart cherry, cola and spice notes and good acidity.  The 2009 Reserve Marlborough Pinot Noir had a similar profile, but with slightly more structure and velvety texture with a hint of wild flowers and violet notes.  The 2010 Taylors Pass Marlborough Pinot Noir was the stand out, though still a little young and tight right now, with a little age this wine will reveal elegance and the true character of New Zealand Pinot Noir with herbal, floral and fruit notes with layers of spice, balaced acidity and texture.

Alastair Maling, MW, leading guests through the tasting

We tried a few of the Bordeaux varietals wines they are making in Hawkes Bay. In the early days of New Zealand grape growing many areas were trying to grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, etc.  Over time Hawkes Bay has become the best place for these grapes to thrive, as the heat of long summer days allows the fruit to ripen fully, while maintaining freshness and acidity.  The 2009 Cellar Selection Merlot Cabernet Hawkes Bay  blends predominantly Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon and a touch of Cabernet Franc.  A food friendly wine with good structure, and fresh fruit flavors of cherry, cassis and plum.  The 2009 Reserve Hawkes Bay Gimblett Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot blends 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with 25% Merlot.  A much richer wine with texture, balanced fruit and earth notes, along with hints of leather, dried tobacco and minerality.  Berries and black cherries fill the palate finishing with touches of chocolate and espresso.

Today the average production of Villa Maria is around 750,000 cases a year, the only large production winery to be family owned in New Zealand, with Sir George still the acting Managing Director. About 2 years ago they entered into a relationship with Chateau St. Michelle Wine Estates for their National Distribution, which Sir George notes has been a wonderful relationship.

I asked him what the next phase will bring. With a glimmer in his eye after taking a long sip of his vibrant and delicious 2009 Taylors Pass Chardonnay, he says he is excited and looks forward the next 50 years, especially as he has 6 grandchildren that will hopefully get involved in this family business when they are old enough.  I will assume it will include much more wine, especially as there have only been 3 days in the past 50 years Sir George has not enjoyed a glass of wine.

I was struck first by the uniformly high quality of the wines. Almost all were ‘good’ or better. I was also impressed with the range of prices. There was something for every budget: The wines raged from  $13.99 to $90. Additionally, it was impressive to see how the different Pinot Noir growing regions are now distinguishing themselves. The French wines were leaner and more earthy. The California wines– Santa Rita Hills (Central Coast), Carneros (Napa/Sonoma), Napa and Russian River Valley (Sonoma)– were fruit forward. The Santa Lucia Highlands were fruity but very delicate. New Zealand seems to be making a Burgundy style and Oregon is one-step removed from Burgundy and leaning towards California.

All of these wines are available at Sigel’s and discounts from the tasting may still apply. At the risk of starting a food fight, here are my recommendations and ratings (prices are in the format discount/regular):

Tequila is the most well known spirit from Mexico, but for coffee lovers it doesn’t get any better than Kahlua, the rich, expressive and delicious coffee liqueur from Veracruz, Mexico. Delicious on its own, simply served over ice; stirring it together with a bit of vodka for a Black Russian, or adding cream for the much loved White Russian; or mixed in with your favorite cup of coffee.  Try the Cinnamon Spice Kahlua, inspired by a Meixcan Café de Olla, blending coffee with brown sugar and cinnamon, it will turn any plain cup into an exotic Mexican coffee.  

Patron is best know for their tequila, but their brand goes beyond their Silver, Repasado and Anejo finding new ways to merge their clean, smooth and distinct tequila into new flavor options.  They recently launched their Patron XO Cafe Dark Cocoa for those with a bit of a sweet tooth blending their Patron Silver with the essence of fine coffee and Criollo chocolate from Mexico creating a luscious, ultra premium liqueur perfect to start or end a celebration with.

COCOA SMASH
1 1/2 oz Patrón XO Cafe Dark Cocoa
3/4 oz Ultimat Vodka
1/2 oz Agave Syrup
3/4 oz Lemon Juice
8 Mint Leaves
Soda Water
Directions – Muddle mint, lemon, and agave together in a bar shaker. Add liquors and ice. Shake and strain into a Collins glass. Add soda water to top off.  Garnish with a mint leaf, lemon peel, and some cocoa nibs.

Tequila is made for much more than a margarita, with many best served straight up for slow sipping, like Casa Dragones, Herradura Anejo, Don Julio Repasado and many more.  Adding tequila as the base spirit in cocktails instead of vodka or gin can also elevate the basic flavor profile, giving a drink layers of floral, citrus and spice notes.

Camarena Chipotle Cooler
2 oz Camarena Reposado Tequila
1 oz Pineapple Juice
1/2 oz Orange Liqueur, like Cointreau
2 Pinches Chipotle Chili Pepper Spice
2 oz Lemonade
Lemon Wheel Garnish
Directions - Combine liquids and spice in cocktail shaker with ice. Shake to blend. Strain into tall glass over fresh ice. Garnish with lemon wheel.

A good Bloody Mary is my go to on any occasion, adding tequila turns this classic into a Bloody Maria.

Avion Bloody Maria
2 oz. Avión Silver
2 oz. Tomato juice
2 tsp. Horseradish
1/2 oz. Worcestershire sauce (or a little more to your taste)
2 Dashes Tabasco
Squeeze of fresh lemon and fresh lime
Salt and freshly cracked pepper
Directions – Add all ingredients to a shaker over ice and shake until chilled.  Strain over ice in a tall glass and garnish with a celery stalk, olive, lemon and lime.

A mint julep is in the hand of everyone toasting the winners at the Kentucky Derby, but who says that is the only thing to enjoy?  In true southern spirit, consider these options from Grey Goose.

Grey Goose L’Orange Thoroughbred (for 2 cocktails)

3 parts Grey Goose L’Orange Flavored Vodka
2 parts peach brandy
2 parts southern sweet iced tea
2 parts fresh lime juice
2 rose petals for garnish
Chambord Liqueur for floating
Directions - Add first four ingredients in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake vigorously until the outside of the shaker is frosted and beaded with sweat. Strain into two rocks glasses filled with crushed ice; pour CHAMBORD so that it floats on top of the drink. Garnish with rose petals.

This year’s Derby also marks the launch of a new vodka from Grey Goose, Cherry Noir, so their mixology team created Derby inspired cocktails to celebrate the launch with, like the Grey Goose Cherry Lane.

Grey Goose Cherry Lane
1 ½ parts Grey Goose Cherry Noir
¾ parts Benedictine Liqueur
1 ½ parts Lemon
¾ parts Simple Syrup
1 dash Bitters
Directions – Mix all ingredients into a cocktail shaker filled with ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a martini cocktail glass and garnish with cherries on a cocktail pick.

If its just not Derby Day without a mint julep, Makers Mark does it best with their take on the classic.

Mint Julep
1-1/2 parts Maker’s Mark Bourbon
Fresh mint
2 tablespoons simple syrup* muddled with mint
Splash of distilled water
Powdered sugar
Directions – Mix together simple syrup* muddled with mint, Maker’s Mark® Bourbon and distilled water. Fill glass with crushed ice and pour mixture over top. Sprinkle top of ice with powdered sugar. Garnish with a mint sprig.

The View From Côte Bonneville's DuBrul Vineyard

James Tidwell, Master Somelier and Beverage Manager at the Four Seasons Las Colinas, takes a lot of wine-related trips. Each time he visits an area he usually discovers a new or off-the-radar winery making a special wine. Last year on a trip to Washington State, Tidwell ran across Côte Bonneville, a family-run winery centered around their DuBrul Vineyard which the Shiels family planted in 1992.  Kerry Shiels, winemaker and daughter of the founders, came to town and Tidwell contacted the Texas distributor,  Hear Hear, and arranged a a dinner featuring Côte Bonneville wines at Café on the Green at the magnificent Four Seasons Resort and Club in Irving. I was an invited guest, which gave me the chance to digest two birds with one stone, so to speak. Besides tasting the wines from Côte Bonneville, I also got to taste new chef Jonathan Rivera’s cooking.

Côte Bonneville Winemaker Kerry Shiels

Kerry Shiels began like most west coast winemakers with an engineering degree from Northwestern University. This was followed by a stint at Fiat where she worked in Turin and Chicago. Only later did she have an epiphany (or 500 Abarth moment) and plunge into making wine full time. She enrolled at the temple of US wine education, UC Davis and earned a Masters degree in viticulture and enology. She spent her breaks working at some A-list wineries: 2006 vintage at Joseph Phelps Vineyards in Napa; 2007 harvest at Tahbilk in Australia; 2007 vintage at Folio, Michael Mondavi’s Napa winery; 2008 harvest as the assistant white winemaker to Rich Arnold at Robert Mondavi Winery, Napa; 2010 harvest at Tapiz in Argentina. All of this time she was involved with the family winery and now works there full time.

The Côte Bonneville winery makes its wines from the family’s DuBrul vineyard. This steep-sloped, rocky vineyard grows Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Riesling. One testimony to the quality of the grapes is that over a dozen other wineries buy them, including some of the best in Washington State.

We started with Côte Bonneville’s Riesling and Cabernet Franc Rosé served with hors d’oeuvres. Then it was down to the meal and 2009 Dubrul Vineyard Chardonnay which was paired Jonathan Rivera’s foie gras torchon over five-spice waffle, pecan brittle, green apple scented with cardamom. This wine has a mineral backbone, Chardonnay’s classic back-off-the-mouth bite, and pineapple and tropical fruit in the nose, all wrapped up in a very tight style.

Next, it was on to the first of two Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines. The 2006 Carriage House is named after the part of the DuBrul vineyard from which it comes. By contrast, the 2005 DuBrul Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is produced from grapes scattered across the vineyard. It was striking how different the characters were, given just a few hundred yards (and a year) difference in the grapes. The Carriage House had pronounced red fruit in both the nose and mouth. Also, notes of toffee in the bouquet! It is fruit-forward with a smooth texture. It reminded me of a characteristic of many Washington State Cabernets: it was non-prototypical. That is, the winemakers eschew following a prototype from Bordeaux or California and just let the (very expressive) fruit unfold in a style of its own. The 2005 DuBrul, by contrast, is reminiscent of Napa valley floor Cabernets with pronounced tannins, very ripe fruit and a wider spectrum of notes in the nose, including cedar and black pepper.

Foie Gras Torchon Over Five Spice Waffle, Pecan Brittle, Green Apple and Cardamom

The wine pairings finished on a high note with the 2009 DuBrul Vineyard Late Harvest Riesling. Sweet but not cloying, commanding weight in the mouth and all wrapped up by a long fruit finish.

It was remarkable to find such a wide variety of grapes growing in such close proximity with apparently no compromise in wine quality. It is no surprise that Côte Bonneville has won many awards from the wine press and more broadly.

It is too early for me to form a judgment of Jonathan Rivera’s cooking, but the execution of the dishes you see in the pictures was spot on. The style seems to be elegant and light, and he seems to have a knack for ‘the right touch’ – a case in point being the solitary marinated amarena cherry nuzzled against the duck breast. I was seated next to Mike Hiller, a familiar Dallas food critic known for his terminal addiction to golf, and he was completely overcome with unintelligible gurgling noises. That is how perfectly the tartness of that cherry infused with the fat in the duck. Yummy as they say over at his publication.

Cocao Dusted Duck Breast, Mushroom & Leek Brandade, Sautéed Swiss Chard, Amarena Cherry Sauce

Great things come in small quantities. These wines are available through Off The Vine in Grapevine, but some are limited to as little as eight bottles for the whole state of Texas.

2009 Chardonnay, Yakima Valley