Gromer Jeffers Jr

1. Dallas County Judge Clay Jenkins is in the restaurant business. He owns a small stake in Mr. Mesero, an Uptown Mexican spot that opened late last year.

2. Dallas County Commissioner Elba Garcia, Jenkins’ Democratic ally on the commissioners court, also has an ownership stake, along with her husband, former state Rep. Domingo Garcia.

3. Jenkins said he was brought into the deal by Mico Rodriguez, who gave Dallas the popular Mi Cocina restaurants.

Nothing wrong with that. Gromer goes on to quote said judge: “We’ve got the best steak dish in town,” Jenkins boasted.

Whoa, judge! That is quite a ruling. Then Gromer points out: DMN dining diva, Leslie Brenner, gave the joint one star. If I were Gromer or Rodriguez, I would demand a retrial. I don’t know about the steak, but the food I’ve eaten at Mr. Mesero is four-star. Whoops, I don’t do stars. Therefore, I call on a jury of my peers.

Filet & Lobster Rockefeller served with Red Beans and and Sautéed Mushrooms

It was a packed house at Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse in Dallas last Thursday as the restaurant played its part in the simultaneous exclusive pre-release of 2009 Paraduxx Z Blend, Napa Valley Red Wine (a Duckhorn portfolio wine) at 81 US locations across the US. Z is a blend of predominantly Zinfandel. Also served were other wines from Duckhorn properties: 2010 Migration Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County; 2009 Goldeneye Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County and 2007 Duckhorn Vineyards Merlot “Three Palms Vineyard”, Napa Valley.

Ruth’s Chris chefs at each participating location prepared the same five course meal which delved into filet, lobster, lamb and white bean and chorizo soup. They even prepared a salad that was so light on the acids that it went harmoniously with the buttery Chardonnay. Amid five fabulous courses I put the lamb lollipops at the top of my own personal flavor favorites and rank the Merlot the best wine of the evening.

This was just the first of a series of wine dinners planned at Ruth’s Chris in 2012. Look out for a Penfold’s dinner on May 1^st featuring what is widely considered one of the top 10 red wines in the world: Penfold’s Grange (known as just ‘The Grange’ among its followers). This year’s release dinner features the 2007 vintage. The dinner will likely be a sell out. Reserve by calling the Dallas location at (972) 250-2244.

Spring Greens & Strawberry Salad with Goat Cheese Toasted Almonds, tossed with Champagne Vinaigrette

~ Duckhorn Wine Dinner Menu ~

1st Course

Spring Greens & Strawberry Salad with goat cheese,
toasted almonds, tossed with Champagne vinaigrette

Migration Russian River Chardonnay

2nd Course

White Bean & Chorizo Soup topped with julienne baby spinach

Goldeneye Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

3rd Course

Salt & Pepper Seared Lamb Lollipop with blackberry demi glace and served with sweet potato casserole

Duckhorn Vineyards Three Palms Merlot

4th Course

Filet & Lobster Rockefeller served with red beans and
rice and sautéed mushrooms

Paraduxx Napa Valley Red Blend

5th Course

Chocolate Sin Cake with fresh berries and sweet cream

Coffee & Tea

Only 13 bottles left.

Honig Vineyard and Winery is a Napa winemaker that has always seemed to fly under my radar. No longer. I was invited to a meal and tasting of Honig wines at Bailey’s Prime Plus in Dallas this week with owner Michael Honig in attendance. The wines showed Honig wines to be as good as any on the Rutherford Bench. Interestingly, Bailey’s sommelier Jennifer Jaco did not serve the latest bottlings. Rather, she procured older vintages that are almost impossible to find at retail.

Most exclusive of the lots was the 2002 Honig Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘Bartolucci Vineyard,’ ‘Premiere Napa Valley 2004,’ Napa Valley. It is worth deciphering that label. This is a 2002 vintage Cabernet Sauvignon from the Bertolucci Vineyard in the St. Helena region of Napa Valley that was produced exclusively for the Napa Valley wine auction called ‘Premier Napa Valley’ held in 2004. Napa wine producers participate in two wine auctions each year that they call their own: the Napa Valley Wine Auction that my colleague Haley Hamilton reported on here. That auction is the better known of the two and is open to the public. The secret auction is trade only. An exclusive list of only 200 Napa wineries are permitted to auction there, and they sell wines made exclusively for the auction. This Honig wine consisted of only six cases. Five went up for auction and were bought by Centennial in Dallas. In 2011 Centennial sold its fine wine collection, and Jaco swooped to buy some coveted lots, including this one.

Agnolotti Pasta, Braised Lamb, Wild Mushrooms and Caramelized Onions

Although served with agnolotti pasta, braised lamb, wild mushrooms, and caramelized onions, I tasted the wine on its own. Early on, the nose smelled mainly of wood, but that blew off to release the rich aromas of raspberry jam intermingled with dark fruit. In the mouth, the components of this wine were fully resolved, the result of a full decade of age, and the tannins soft and velvety. There was a slight sweetness as a result of the ripe fruit that had not faded despite the decade of age. The finish lasted almost a minute. This is undoubtedly one of the best aged wines that I have had for several months. It is on the restaurant’s list, but hurry, there are only 13 bottles left. Discriminating collectors will hunt it down as the list price ($300) is lower than some recent auctions.

Japanese Akaushi New York Strip Steak

The other aged wine was a study in stylistic contrast. The 2004 Honig Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Bartolucci Vineyard,’ Napa Valley was young, and merited another decade in the bottle. This was largely the result of it having been served from magnums, one-and-a-half liter bottles (twice the regular size), which retard the aging process. Still a good wine, but while the 2002 was at its peak, this one was still developing. Bailey’s Executive Chef Grant Morgan served it with a Japanese Akaushi New York Strip, grilled radicchio, and huckleberry marmalade. This proved to be exactly right to cut the wine’s tannins. The Akaushi beef is so well marbled that, combined with Morgan’s liberal seasoning, this was the classic steak and Cabernet combination at its best. The huckleberry marmalade deserves a shout-out here — it was not too sweet, so it did not wrap the wine in a sugar layer.

Pan Roasted Sea Scallops, Water Cress Salad, Ruby Red Grapefruit Emulsion

Yes, we did have Honig’s Sauvignon Blanc (2010 Honig Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley), a benchmark for the northern California style of Sauvignon Blanc if there was one. It worked well with the scallop starter. But it was a mortal among deities on this stage.

The perfect ending was the 2008 Honig Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest, Napa Valley, a ringer for a Sauternes with its pungent botrytized nose and tongue-enveloping body. Michael Honig explained that it had not needed the Sémillon grape blended into Sauternes for flavor as Sauvignon Blanc alone in Napa temperatures produced enough flavor and Sémillon tended to reduce the acidity, making for a flabby wine. This wine is only made when nature produces botrytis naturally, so do not look for it at retail stores. Rather go to the web site. We tasted this with rhubarb “sponge” and cream, a not-too-sweet dessert that paired beautifully with the wine. I quizzed Morgan, and he had, indeed, been given samples of the wines when preparing the menu. That important step paid off.

Honig is now well above my radar. Bravo for Bailey’s for the foresight to select such exquisite older vintages. I hope this kind of creativity is a trend in 2012. After four years of recession, it is welcome.

Werley confirms California Cabernet is the most popular wine category among the patrons at Pappas. So popular that she said she would have to check her records to find which of several also-rans came in second (white Burgundy is the likely contender). It was fitting that this tasting of a dozen Cabernet Sauvignons should focus on California. Nine of the wines in the tastings were produced in California.  Those choices were rounded out with one Ozzie wine, a rosé from South Africa, and a sample from Washington State.

Follow me.

My faves were the 2007 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars “SLV”. Napa Valley, 2005 Geyser Peak Winery Block Collection ‘Walking Tree’, Alexander valley, Sonoma, 2008 Lewelling Vineyards, St. Helena, Napa and the 2011 Mulderbosch Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon, South Africa. The latter is a very unusual treatment of the bar room bruiser of red grapes. It is a delicate and aromatic rosé ideal for spring days on the patio (they are coming back, honest!). All of the wines served are available on the Pappas Bros. wine list.

While Pappas’ wine team poured the wine to patrons from three serving tables, the wait staff toured the room dispensing heavy hors d’oeuvres. Tickets were $55, which is typically the price of these monthly events. To hear about future events, e-mail arobinson@pappas.com and ask to be put on the list.

Two forays into their deep wine cellar are coming up in March: On March 2^nd a Beringer Wine Dinner with winemaker Ed Sbragia and Fred Dame MS. On March 23^rd What Would You Drink: Favorites of Pappas Bros. Sommeliers? is the next in the monthly tastings series. Call (214) 366-2000 to make reservations. A sellout for both is assured.

Chef Mario performs two kinds of magic.

It appears the restaurateur business in all of North Dallas and Plano has been zoned sushi only. There are at least 16 in Plano alone.  Geisha Steak and Sushi in Plano held a media event this week to showcase their menu and illustrate they do much more than sushi. Geisha has a location that is at once very convenient (at the northeast corner of Coit and SH-190, close to the Plano Central Market) and easy to miss (they are set back from Coit, and below 190). However, those that find them can expect some interesting things.

Fuji-San Special Roll

First, we had a selection of special rolls including The Green Hulk (shrimp tempura, crab mix, topped with avocado, crawfish, wasabi, mayo and eel sauce), the Mango Tango (salmon, avocado, jalapeno, masago, mango, spicy mayo and hot sauce) and (my favorite) the Fuji-San (shrimp tempura, snow crab, avocado, topped with crab mix, tempura flakes and spicy mayo).

After a house salad and a Hibachi Soup (a mushroom, scallion, onion and egg soup in an intense beef broth), we moved on to food served from the Hibachi. Our chef, who had the traditional Japanese name ‘Mario’, whipped up the surf side first: salmon, scallops, lobster and calamari. Then he turned to the turf side with chicken breast, fillet and strip steak. These were accompanied by sticky rice, vegetables and noodles. The whole process of Hibachi, of course, is as much theater as cooking. He did all the usual knife and condiment tricks with the food for sure. However, he saved the best show until the end. It turns out that Mario is a frustrated magician. As we munched our food, he made coins go through bottles, quarters disappear and reappear in sealed boxes or inside a can of coke that he cut up with a hacksaw. It is best seen to be appreciated, and is less expensive than going to a David Blaine show. And David Blaine doesn’t cook for you.

I’m celebrating my five year anniversary  later this month with my steak-loving wife.  Any suggestion on a steakhouse that also has somewhat of a romantic vibe?

Details below.

Dinners Taking Place on October 20 Across the U.S.

Orlando, Fla.–— On October 20, Ruth’s Chris (www.ruthschris.com) is proud to celebrate 26 generations of best-in-class winemaking from Tuscany’s Antinori family with a special Antinori wine dinner at 38 of its locations across the United States.  At the dinners, guests will enjoy highly-coveted wines like Super-Tuscan Tignanello, along with iconic wines from the Antinori family estates paired with Ruth’s Chris Steak House signature dishes.

Guests dining at the Ruth’s Chris Manhattan location will be joined by special guest Marchese Piero Antinori, chairman and patriarch of the family company and one of the most influential individuals in the wine world.

“We are excited to partner with Antinori and to share the Antinori estate wines from Tuscany and Napa Valley with our loyal customers. With 38 locations participating, this is the largest wine dinner series in our restaurant’s history,” said Helen Mackey, Corporate Director of Beverage Strategy for Ruth’s Hospitality Group. “Our four-course meal created by executive chef Rick Crossland embodies our signature style and is the perfect complement to these iconic wines.”

The menu consists of the following:

1st Course:  Pear, Gorgonzola & Arugula Salad

Paired with Antica Napa Valley Chardonnay

2nd Course:  Roasted Tomato and Crab Soup served with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil from Antinori’s Pèppoli Estate
Paired with Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva

3rd Course: Wild Mushroom Risotto
Paired with Guado al Tasso

4th Course:  6oz Filet and Cold Water South Atlantic Lobster Tail served with creamy polenta and broccolini gratin
Paired with Tignanello

Dessert
Autumn Pumpkin Cheesecake

Seating is limited and reservations are required. Pricing varies from $95 to $120 per person. For a complete list of participating restaurants and to reserve your space at any of their participating locations, please visit: this link.

Before you jump to conclusions about real vs. lab-created meat, science writer Michael Specter, who traveled to laboratories in the Netherlands and North Carolina to examine the progress scientists have made in developing in vitro meat, is quick to point out that this is real meat. It’s real muscle cells, the same ones that live inside a real cow, minus the environmental bugbears such as pesticides, UV radiation, etc. (Specter wrote about the arguments in favor of lab-made steaks in the May 23 issue of The New Yorker.)

Even though the technology and global feasibility are still in development, I’d lay money on the fact that the technology’s not going to fade away. And being that this is Texas, this is a topic worth familiarizing ourselves with so that we can have a reasonable discussion about the technology’s pros and cons.

Pros: a reduction in animal cruelty and greenhouse gas emissions

Cons: You tell me. Especially in light of rising population numbers and the domino effect of socioeconomic and environmental pitfalls associated with feeding all those people.

Agriculture stats show that the largest share of Texas’ agricultural income is derived from beef cattle. Texas ranks #1 in the country in cattle raised—a number that can exceed 14 million head. That’s about 20 percent of the nation’s beef cattle.

I encourage you to listen to the episode of Fresh Air and read Specter’s article, then return for a discussion in the comments section.

Jump for the pairings.

The meal started with Twomey wines. The Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc (2008) was served with passed hors d’oeuvres. A 2006 Napa Merlot accompanied an appetizer of Pekin duck and foie gras egg rolls with red current sweet and sour slaw. Then it was on to the big stuff. 2006 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County paired with honey-herb roasted leg of lamb with minted bread pudding and dried strawberry chutney. The Alexander valley Cabernet is Silver Oak’s more utilitarian. As we discovered during this meal, the wine has a strikingly contrasting style to its Napa counterpart. The 2005 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley followed with steak and eggs grilled filet on pulled pork hash. The latter included a poached egg and was topped with blueberry hollandaise and wild boar bacon (we really did get eggs and bacon!). The Napa Cabernet was the star wine of the evening: the nose with aromas of blackcurrant and a bouquet of dust and cedar. In the mouth, the wine is fruity, showing a clear New World heritage, but the long (25-month) aging in American oak produced a complexity and soft tannin structure that produced a wine with backbone but also with approachability. I would drink now but expect this vintage to keep for a decade.

A dessert of chai tea cheesecake with caramel ice cream Moscato Sabayon was a decadent ending to a fine meal.

All of these wines are available on Del Frisco’s wine list, and retail either locally or by direct order from the winery.

Pekin duck and foie gras egg rolls with red current sweet and sour slaw

UPPITY DATE: Faith, a very nice representative  from Artizone, just told me that VG’s Greg Greet is “currently developing another business.”

Bob Sambol leaves Bob's Steak & Chop House officially "Bob-less."

Exclusive! Breaking! Must credit SideDish!!

Minutes ago, Bob Sambol told his staff and investors that he is decamping the legendary Bob’s Steak & Chop House to take a job at MCrowd. Come Monday, diners at the Mercury Grill will find Sambol waiting to greet them at the front door. He’ll run that operation and will spearhead an MCrowd foray into fine dining with as-yet-unnamed future restaurants in the Dallas area.

Naturally, if you’ve been playing along at home, you are right now recalling that Sambol is a thief who recently copped to stealing $300,000 from an investor. I asked MCrowd co-owner Ray Washburne why he would take on that risk and the baggage that comes with it. I found it curious that he didn’t have a ready answer and seemed to be thinking out loud as he looked for one. Washburne said Sambol is a talented guy and a hard worker. “In the restaurant business,” he said, “you have very few people who are true restaurateurs, who work the door and know their customers’ names.” Sambol is one of those guys. (Washburne said Al Biernat is another.) But Washburne also said the hire was a real Dallas thing. “One reason Dallas is a great city is if you’re honest and you work hard, people are willing to listen to you,” he said. I replied, “Honest?” Washburne laughed and said, “We’re all sinners. Bob has addressed his issues. He’s looking for a fresh start, and working with the structure that MCrowd has, he can flourish.” Hang on, though. There’s one more reason Washburne gave for making the hire. Sambol got deferred adjudication and is on probation for 10 years. “If he messes up once,” Washburne said, “he’s done. He’s got a gun to his head.” In other words, he thinks Sambol is a safe bet.

For his part, Sambol told Nancy: “I’m really excited. I’ve had some incredible heart-to-heart talks with all of the partners. I’ve been honest with them, and I respect [Mercury Grill chef Chris Ward] and his staff. We are not looking back. We’re looking forward to increasing business and perhaps creating new projects for Chris.”

Ward is known for being, oh, let’s call it quiet. What is going to happen when MCrowd installs an operator at the Mercury who has grown accustomed, over the years, to having his name on the building? “Bob has a great passion for the restaurant business,” Ward said. “He has plans to boost the business at Mercury. We’ve also talked about doing another restaurant together.”

Porterhouse steak at Al Biernat's.

La Fiorentina'a crostini of the day with prosciutto, lardo, raosted tomatoes, and pureed cannellini beans.

When La Fiorentina Tuscan Steakhouse opened its doors to the public on Dec. 1, we were first in line. Follow the link for some awesome pictures and to find out what Alberto Lombardi has up his sleeve with his new Tuscan steakhouse.

Click here to go to the full review…

Jump for more!

Lately, Bob, in addition to his consulting work, has been concentrating on his own Egelhoff winery, which is turning out some serious Cabernet Sauvignons and a rather good Riesling. Brian explained that he bought a case, not knowing if he could sell it in a steak house, because he liked it so much.

The 2008 Nick and Sam’s Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon fruit. It is 100% from the Napa Valley with 95% from the St. Helena AVA. This is a young wine in every respect. The color is vibrant purple, especially noticeable at the edge of the glass. The nose is marked by raspberries and blackberries. The taste shows a wine very open in those same fruits and sweet in the mouth. An unmistakably New World Cabernet. It is riven with a tannic backbone that will be ideal for steak. The price is $95 on the restaurant wine list, which is comparable with many quality Napa wines, but only half the price of the 2007 Egelhoff Cabernet Sauvignon.