My mother grew up in a small town outside of Archer City, Texas. A couple of nights a week she watched her mother go out in the back yard, grab one of the many chickens running around the yard and snap its neck. A couple hours later the former “pet’ was devoured for dinner. It wasn’t a trend; it was how they lived.
Now having a groovy chicken coop in your backyard or on a patio in New York is trendy. The gals over on the D Home blog have the scoop on the “must have” coop. If you want to get your backyard bird party started, the folks at Northaven Gardens have the knowledge and supplies. I’d rather have a goat.
Teresa Gubbins has been all over this story like hot on fries (where did I just read that?). She reported Friday that the former owners of foodie favorite La Palapa Veracruzana that closed nearly two years ago, Raul and Olga Reyes, have been given a second chance to showcase their talents at Mesa. Their savior? No, not Carl Van Fleet of In-N-Out. The Reyes’, according to Gubbins, were saved by “by a support group that includes Chris Zielke, co-owner of Smoke and Bolsa, as well as Nick Zukin, the Portland blogger and restaurateur who is co-owner of Kenny & Zuke’s Delicatessen. Bolsa bartender Eddie “Lucky” Campbell consulted on the cocktail menu, which includes a luscious house-made horchata — spiked, of course.” Opening day is set for Friday, May 20. 118-A West Jefferson Blvd.
1 Comment »Chef John Tesar is on fire. The guy has been working non-stop since last winter. First, he kick-started the menu at The Cedars Social, where he still oversees the kitchen. Then he signed a lease on the Dali Wine Bar space and divided it into two restaurants: The Commissary and The Table.
Early returns from The Commissary are blissful. Colleagues have stopped by my cubicle and uttered “OMG” “To Die For” and “How can it be so good and so cheap?” “It blew my hair back!” Saaa-weet! The menu is centered on gourmet burgers and fine wine. It’s a burger joint with a sommelier (Scott Barber). The other portion of the space, The Table is a 12-seat tasting room where Tesar will perform the higher end dishes that brought him to the Big Show. Teasar calls it “deconstructed fine dining.” He is resurrecting canapés!
Anywhoo, last night Tesar threw a private party at The Table. The guest list included Jennifer and David Uygur (Lucia), Chef Bruno Davaillon (Mansion execuchef), Michael Flynn (Mansion sommelier), Tim Byres (Smoke), Teiichi “Teach” Sakurai (Tei-An), and The “Ubiquitous” Brad. Who was that skinny little bitch sitting next to Byres? Our own Sarah Reiss. “The food was incredible,” Reiss said. “Tesar overwhelmed us (in a good way ) with 13 courses; he wanted to try everything out on his friends. I just sat back and listened to all the great industry talk and insider raves.” The 13-course, seafood-centric marathon, that was anticipated to last 150 minutes, lasted over 4 hours. Reiss gives the best dish award to the faux cuttle fish pasta with Iberico pork and lemon fondue.
Reiss said the talk at the table revolved around the current dining culture in Dallas and how chefs are trying new things on the menu (pig’s ear and tripe), and the fact that restaurateurs are more willing to take chances. “This generation is going to forever define the dining in this city,” said Tesar.
Wonderfully pompous or prophetic? Or both? The Commissary opens for lunch today. Go. Eat. Report.
You may have seen this video before but every time I watch it makes me smile. Happy Good Friday.
Two Dogs Dining in a Busy Restaurant
1 Comment »This month in D Magazine, Sarah Reiss writes about three little pigs and a good burger.
5 Comments »In the bandwagon world of nouveau-rustic dining, one of the more damning descriptors a reviewer can ascribe to a restaurant is the word “franchiseable.” The term not only brings a curl to the lip of a certain breed of foodie, but it also puts the restaurant in the position of having to overcome typecasting.
Which brings us to Plano’s Whiskey Cake. Taking hold in the former Plano Tavern location, this neo-steampunk eatery—with its exposed brick, yellow-filament Thomas Edison bulbs, and warehouse sensibility—appears to be at war with itself. On one hand, we have the postindustrial aesthetic, on-site herb gardening, in-house curing, and advanced cocktailery—all tough to replicate. On the other, there are kitschy signs, costumed servers, familiar layouts, and an interior that feels like you have landed in Anywheresville, USA. This is not a value judgment as much as a recognition that, no matter how good the food, much of the Whiskey Cake concept screams “franchise.”
A colleague with a soul for saving dogs and a bod for sin wants advice on where she can take the two loves of her life—mother and dogs—to celebrate Mother’s Day. That would be May 8. Give it up dog-friendly restaurants.
12 Comments »What would you do if the following scenario was your life?
My Austrian foreign exchange student’s parents are coming here at the end of May. I want to have a going away party for the student and combine it with a welcome to Texas party for the parents. I can’t decide what to do. A taco truck would be fun, but don’t have the names of any. Or should I do BBQ, is that more quintessentially Texas? I can’t spend a bunch of money. I am amenable to having it catered at my house or at a restaurant. Any suggestions?
I am no longer a caterer and my heart rate doubles when I read this, so you guys help her.
16 Comments »She says goodbye and calls me a sexist. That’s a new one. She is going to Seattle where “people forage and fish and pick berries and brew.”
30 Comments »Last night the Chefs for Farmers dinner at the Highland Park Cafeteria was the talk of the town. Over 250 folks showed up to support farmers, raise money, and bow to local producers and everything organic. All the current politically correct buzzwords were in place until reporter Teresa Gubbins noticed the huge number of half-eaten plates left on the tables. She writes:
I didn’t eat. I was too stunned by the rampant waste. Given the nature of the crowd — one that seemed heavy on foodies — I was flabbergasted to see how much food got thrown away, and how little respect it seemed to show for the work the chefs did, and the very nature of the event itself, with its emphasis on farmers and reverence for food.
I thought the idea of holding the event in a cafeteria was a great idea–it could have been a teaching experience. Instead of piling on globs of food, the chefs should have dished out smaller tasting portions. One diner quipped: “I paid $92 and I’m going to get my money’s worth.” Dude, it’s a fundraiser. You aren’t supposed to get your money’s worth. Stay true to the movement, chefs. Gubbins, you rule #WINNING.
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Everyone is in love with Lucia, the darling of the Dallas dining scene. We sent our hard-to-impress dining critic, Teresa Gubbins, to the cozy spot run by Jennifer and David Uygur and she filed this report.
Dallas has a giant crush on Lucia. And why not? She is easy to love. This small, adventurous Italian restaurant has courage, a fierce independent streak, and some sultry handmade pasta, too.
Lucia is the offspring of Jennifer and David Uygur, who are fulfilling their dream of opening their own place. David built a dedicated following for his creative cooking at Lola, where his precisely rendered culinary experimentation made the restaurant’s limited-seating tasting room the top destination for foodies in the know. Jennifer is the slow-food enthusiast and former wine manager at the Dallas Central Market.
At Lucia, Uygur departs from New American cuisine, an act inspired by his wife’s love of Italian food. Her aunt was an opera singer, and a teenage Jennifer went to Verona to see her perform. That trip educated her palate. Uygur had his own Italian connection. Right after he got out of culinary school, he worked for Basil’s in Austin, where they make fresh pasta every day.
Click here for more beautiful words and pictures.
12 Comments »According to Teresa “Dallas Dudette” Gubbins, Steven Doyle,the man formerly known as Dallas Dude, has launched a new foodie website. Crave is a “life-sized Etch-A-Sketch that we’ll shake up for you on occasion.” Doyle has a big staff of reporters and vows to cover “food and cocktails we will also explore the art scene which we view as totally under-served in DFW.” Congrats to Doyle, he’s one hard working dude.
6 Comments »I told this sweet young gal to get a pregnancy test. She has a craving that will not go away. Hear her say:
18 Comments »I’ve been craving crab legs for DAYS. Where can we go to get some good, messy, down-and-dirty crab legs with some butta?
The March issue of D Magazine is out. On the the cover? In-N-Out Burger. Why? Because the farm fresh fast food chain from SoCal is about to open all over North Texas. We asked Nancy (Fast Food Maven) Luna of the Orange County Register to write the story. She was the only journalist allowed a behind-the-scenes tour of the operation.
Pulling this story together was difficult. To say that the corporate world of In-N-Out Burger savors their privacy is an understatement. They don’t like to encourage publicity and keep details of their plans close to their vest.
Luna did a great job of journaling the long, mysterious story of In-N-Out. Here it is.
10 Comments »A concerned husband writes for advice. His wife needs your help. So, go.
My wife (40-something) is looking for a cool, “hip” restaurant for lunch. She is taking her best friend out for the friend’s birthday. Some place that they can have great food, great service, and talk without raising their voices. Any suggestions?
Without raising their voices? Guess I’m not on the invite list.
21 Comments »What is going on around here? First a restaurant won’t split a large bill for a table of eleven, now comes word that Houston’s in Addison won’t put dressing on the side. This note from a long-time Houston’s customer just popped up in my inbox:
Me: “I’d like my dressing on the side.”
Server: “We don’t do sides of dressing anymore, we make the dressing with the salad.”
Me: “Oh.”[Salad is served]
Server: “How’s your salad?”
Me: “Kind of bland, can I get some more dressing?”
Server: “I’m sorry they [kitchen] only make the dressing when they make the salad.”
Me: “But it’s a $14 salad.”
REALLY? On Valentine’s Day? MAKE SOME MORE.
The following news comes from the copy and paste press release department.
1)The Dallas Morning News Wine Competition (DMNWC) has added TexSom, the country’s only organization that produces a yearly conference for sommeliers, as a “co-presenter and production partner”. TexSom was founded by James Tidwell (Four Seasons) and Drew Hendricks (Pappas Bros. Houston) and the annual event draws sommeliers and wine experts from all over the world. The DMNWC founder Rebecca Murphy says, “The reach of this extensive network of wine professionals broadens the impact on sales [of medal winners] far beyond the greater Dallas market. It’s invaluable exposure for a wine.” Judging will be held at the Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas February 20-21 and gold-medal winners will be announced in Salut! published by The Dallas Morning News on March 24. The general public will have the opportunity to sample the award-wining wines at the Dallas Wine and Food Festival on April 13-17.
2) Anybody remember chef Jordon Swim of Food Creates Community? He was actually a front-runner in the underground dining, long-table craze. He popped into my inbox this morning to say: “We are kicking off the year with a night filled with friends and flavors gathered around the bountiful table. The night will feature 5 courses sourced from the best of the area and prepared with passion for taste and nourishment. We will be back in the Lakewood community and offer two seating’s (6 and 8:00pm) on Saturday February 26. RSVP here.
4 Comments »I know Leslie Brenner works hard and I swore to myself that I would quit pointing to things she writes that I consider odd or wrong. However, my brain snapped into a million fragments as I read her column on where Super Bowl fans can dine without a reservation.
After touting Tei-An and steakhouses she writes:
“If you’re looking for a place with another kind of serious Texas flavor, charge right past the Tex-Mex spots you’ll see all over town; Tex-Mex is not Dallas’ strong suit.”
What is she smoking? Seriously? El Fenix has been open since 1918. Tex-Mex is not our strong suit? When did we become the hotbed for soba noodles and octopus salad? Don’t get me wrong, we have excellent Japanese restaurants. But are they our strong suit. If so, why have I spent the last several days answering e-mails from visiting media members looking for hole-in-the-wall Tex-Mex and margaritas. I have to go outside and find some ice to slip on. Leslie, you can catch up on the history and significance of Tex-Mex in Dallas here. Or at least talk to Kim Pierce. Charge right past? Oh, my.
52 Comments »The ability for dining critics to remain anonymous is almost impossible these days. While Leslie Brenner and I cling to the idea that we are still somewhat unknown (cue laugh track), the Dallas Observer’s Hanna Raskin attended Monday night’s Foodways Texas event and wore a nametag. Of course, Eater.com has posted her picture. Do you think this matters? Can I sell my fat suit and wig collection on eBay? And if that is Hanna? Girl, you need to eat more.
19 Comments »Working across the street from Stephan Pyles can be dangerous. Not only is the dining room one of Downtown’s best places to explore new flavors, but in fair weather the patio beckons with its breeze, bar service, and sidelong view of our mini urban streetscape. It’s a place where even lunch can feel new again, which is exactly what happened when I ventured into Stephan’s salad menu — for the first time — last week.
For the record, I’m not one of those crunchy peckers who wear their dietary restraint as a badge of honor. I’m an eater, and I order as such. But with the coming holidays in mind, I decided to change my tune for a day, err on the side of prudence, and order (sigh) a salad.
The waiter’s enthusiasm alone should have forewarned me that the house smoked salmon on toasted chipotle brioche with green lentils, Upland cress and yogurt-dill dressing ($14) would permanently change how I think about salmon, and salads for that matter. The dish, a layered deck of lightly smoked salmon atop brioche and lentils was velvety, savory, and not a bit restrained.
Unfortunately, I’d downed the whole thing before realizing I should have taken a picture. I promise to do so next time. Until then, give it a try and tell me what you think. Especially you, crunchy peckers. Technically it’s still a salad, so feel free to live a little.
Listen up Dishers, we have a local controversy spreading across the internet faster than a lightning-struck, dry oak– I mean hickory–wood pile in a West Texas windstorm. It’s time we talked about food bloggers, a unit of special victims.
Yesterday, DMN food critic, Leslie Brenner, released “her” Best in DFW Barbecue list. It didn’t take long for the pits to hit the fans.
Last February, I hired local Full Custom Gospel BBQ blog writer, Daniel “BBQ Snob” Vaughn, to produce a cover story on the best barbecue in our area. In the piece, he focused on many of the out-of-the-way-down-and-dirty finds that usually get overlooked by glossy publications. Turns out many of his spots ended up on Brenner’s list. And Vaughn feels he should have been credited in Brenner’s round-up.
It’s a long story (stories!). I’ve been tied up for two days (don’t I wish) and I need to get up to speed on the controversy. Thanks to Dallas Observer’s Hanna Raskin for starting the conversation. Thanks to the local bloggers, readers, and friends who have texted, e-mailed, and phoned me with their opinions. Get your knives and forks ready–we shall continue the conversation here on SideDish as soon as I can get my thoughts together. Until then, read the hot links, start talking, or put another log on the fire. There is a lot to discuss. And we like to talk brisket.
Dallas Morning News Best in DFW: Barbecue
Daniel Vaughn’s Full Custom BBQ blog post response
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