UPDATE: Monica is on her way to Houston. I got lucky when she answered her cell phone. “This [move] has been a real struggle for me,””Greene said. I’ve always been committed to urban development. I believe in Dallas but unfortunately the area [Deep Ellum] has taken a long time to develop. It’s time for me to expand and open my doors to a larger audience.”

I say, you go girl. It’s a great move. She has been in, what I would call, an abusive relationship with Deep Ellum for a long time. It’s time she made a fresh start. That girl has some balls. Oh, wait. Nevermind.

May 18, 2012

Dear Dallas,

Years ago, I read in “Popular Science” that it takes seven years for a person’s cells to replenish. Maybe this is true for humans, but it has taken twenty years at Monica’s Aca y Alla for that cycle to occur.  Monica’s Aca y Alla, with some other creative and wonderful entrepreneurs, helped put Deep Ellum on the map.  But today Deep Ellum is paying the price of Dallas growth within the Downtown area, Bishop Arts District, Uptown and other business districts.  Deep Ellum is going through its own revitalization; old buildings are being redone, DART stations are now open and someday there will be a new world in Deep Ellum. I hope that new world is a good. I expect to continue to be a part of Deep Ellum through my support of whatever venture my ex-partners decide to re-open in the Aca y Alla space.

Indeed, Monica’s Aca y Alla is evolving and changing to Monica’s and the ME Lounge and we will be moving to new digs.  We look forward to becoming a new fixture for the Cedar Springs and Oak Lawn area. We are excited to begin a new partnership with the Crosland Group and the Axiom Group at the beautiful ilume ®  building.  Hector Hernandez will be leading the charge as the Chef for this new concept. Together, we have a vision that will continue to create reasons for guests to eat our unique – yet traditional – style of food, enjoy new menu recipes that will include some of the real Mexican-style of food that was destined for Tajin.

Reality has shown me that with the intense competition in the Mexican food segment, the challenge of finding new ways to attract (and to keep) customers grows. Yes, the new Monica’s together with ME lounge will be fast paced, inventive, exciting, and it will epitomize a new style of Mexican food that I prefer to not call Tex-Mex, but “Nueva Cocina.”

I work, I play, I live and I will always love Deep Ellum. Monica’s had a very successful twenty years of restaurant operation in this historic district.  I am grateful, and would like to thank all Dallasites for their kind and generous support over the years.  We hope you will join us over the next few weeks at Monica’s Aca y Alla to say your good-bye’s and share with us your favorite stories from the past 20 years.  Then, I look forward to sharing with you my vision of the future at Monica’s in the ilume ®.  Until then…

Respectfully,
Monica Greene

Are you ready for some hot dogs?

Yesterday, Merritt Martin of Eater Dallas, linked (ha!) to a story reporting Dallas-based Zaccanelli Food Group’s acquisition of the 133 year-old Hofmann Sausage Company in Syracuse, New York. She writes:

“Wait, what? Dallas-based Zaccanelli Food Group acquired Syracuse’s Hofmann Sausage Company in a multimillion dollar deal that means sausage expansion (well beyond Hot Haus rests, even into Texas groceries, gasp!) and, linking (ha) seemingly random investors the likes of Oneida Indian Nation, former Dallas Cowboys quarterback Roger Staubach and others.”

The “others” Martin omits are significant players that are anything but randomly linked. Like the “Zaccanelli” behind the group:  Frank Zaccanelli, a native of Syracuse, is the former team president of the Dallas Mavericks. He was the minority owner to Ross Perot Jr.’s majority. Together, they sold the team to our (foodie) hero, Mark Cuban. Before that, Zaccanelli was a big wig at Perot Jr.’s company and they did some big deals like Alliance Airport and large real estate developments all over the state. (Huge overstatement in the interest of time.) Zaccanelli Food Group received majority funding from the powerful central-New York based Oneida Indian Nation Enterprises, a group dedicated to “re-investing in Central New York.” Other investors include former Syracuse Police Chief and two-time Syracuse University All-American basketball player Dennis DuVal, Syracuse University Head Basketball Coach Jim Boeheim, Dallas Cowboys quarterback and businessman Roger Staubach, and several high-profile restaurateurs and sports figures.

The until-now family-owned and operated Hofmann Sausage Company is a well-respected name in the restaurant business. They make some fine sausages and hot dogs. Call me crazy, but I swear I ate a Hofmann dog at Fuddrucker’s a century ago. Oh, that brings me to another “other” in this multi-million-dollar-dog deal: Phil Romano, the creator of Fuddruckers®, World’s Greatest Hamburgers®. Secret fact: Romano ALSO grew up in Syracuse eating Hofmann dogs. He loves them so much he sells them at Eatzi’s! Now he’s going to show the world just how much he hearts Hofmann dogs. Romano is in charge of creating a national chain of Hofmann’s World’s Greatest Hot Dogs restaurants. (I’m sure the ® is still at the attorney’s office.)  I, for one, can’t wait. Hot dogs are the new hamburger.

Update: Hofmann products will be available in 64 Texas Albertson’s stores, including those in DFW, this weekend. That was fast.

Biodynamically, organic and sustainably grown grapes at Benziger Winery

Earth Day is this Sunday and what better way to think green than through a glass, and the options run the gamete from high end to every day table wine, and come from all over the world.  Yes, I suppose if you are really focused on reducing that carbon footprint than look within 100 miles of where you are now for your wine source, but I am a firm believer in supporting wineries all over the world that are making a conscious decision to work greener, organic and/or sustainably, keeping the environment in mind.  Here are a few suggestions, including a few from Texas, to consider this weekend or any weekend.  A few selections were sent for editorial consideration.

Cade Winery is a go to for anyone who is simply a fan of great wine from Howell Mountain in Napa Valley, especially for their mineral driven, steely Sauvginon Blanc, velvety, red fruit filled Napa Valley Cuvee and their luscious Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon.  I spoke with winemaker Tony Biagi last night about how the idea behind Cade, the first LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Gold Certified winery in the Napa Valley, and why creating a state of the art, completely green winery was so important to the Cade, and Plumpjack, owners.  The idea for Cade had been floating around for a while before it actually opened its doors in 2005.  Having found success in Oakville with Plumpjack Winery, owners Gavin Newsom, former San Francisco mayor and current Lieutenant Governor of California, and philanthropist Gordon Getty, partnered with Plumpjack Winery GM John Conover to create a new organic winery with its own personality on Howell Mountain, with the goal to achieve LEED certification. The solar powered winery was built from recycled materials, like old blue jeans, the winery is focused on quality and never backing down to the potential Cade has, and in the short time since their first vintage in 2005 they continue to show the potential the winery has, proving that when done well with quality in mind, working organically can produce incredible wine.

Another winery that has figured this out is Benziger, the family run winery in California’s Sonoma County.  Benziger keeps three things in mind when creating their award winning wine – strong family, great wine and healthy vineyards.  The family part is easy, when I visited this winery in 2010 they told me around 30 members of the Benziger family lived either on the estate or close to it; and they have long been producers of great wine; but the idea of creating healthy vineyards for both growing quality grapes and being good for the environment has really been the focus of GM/winegrower and winemaker Mike Benziger, who today uses certified Biodynamic, organic and sustainable farming methods for all of the vineyards used for Benziger wine.  Though they appreciate the environmental statement working green makes, the real reason t0 employ these practices is simply because wine made without contaminants and chemicals will end up tasting better and taste like the place it was grown.  As is obvious in their tropical fruit, citrus and honeysuckle filled Wente Clone Carneros Chardonnay, their Paradiso de Maria Sauvignon Blanc filled with baking spice, citrus fruit and a touch of cream, and their hearty, bold and incredible Tribute, with ripe blackberry, espresso and dark chocolate.

Grgich Hills Estate in the heart of Napa Valley has been producing wines from their 366 acre estate Biodynamically, without artificial fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides since 2003, 26 years after their start in 1977 (a year after the famed Paris Tasting where Chateau Montelena won first prize with the Chardonnay Mike Grgich, then winemaker for Montelena, helped produce.)   Old vines had been struck with a virus and experts said they needed to be replaced; instead of replacing the vines Grgich Hills switched to Biodynamic farming and immediately saw improvements in the vines, but also in the taste and quality of the wines produced from Biodynamically farmed vines.  By 2006 all 366 acres had been converted to Biodynamic farming with organic and Biodynamic certification by the Demeter Association, the certifying agency in the United States.  Today the classic California Chardonnay that Mike Grgich produced all those years ago, with notes of freshly baked, buttery bread, golden apple and honeydew melon, is still as tasty, now just a little bit healthier due to their green practices.

Further down the California coast lies the Santa Barbara region, quickly becoming known for their delicious Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, often produced using green practices.  Santa Barbara Collection wine showcase the luxurious lifestyle of Santa Barbara County and the high quality wine that can be produced there.  Their 2010 Chardonnay is produced from SIP (Sustainably in Practice) Certified vineyards from the wineries Cat Canyon Estate Vineyard in Los Alamos.  Filled with lemon zest, mango, pineapple and banana with hints of vanilla on the finish, this is a delicious wine for sipping throughout a warm spring day.

Two California wineries have taken their green philosophy to the next level by incorporating green materials into the packaging of their organic and/or sustainable wines.  Clif Family Winery, the folks behind the popular Clif Bars, have a firm mission to craft wine and food using practices that care for the earth, including sustainable farming, environmentally friendly packaging and use of renewable energy.  Their Clif Family Climber Pouch is a convenient, easy to carry pouch which holds two traditional bottles of wine, but uses 90% less waste than two traditional glass bottles and has an 80% less carbon footprint.  Available in either their fruit forward red wine blend of California Zinfandel, Cabernet Franc, Petit Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot or Chardonnay. CalNaturale takes this a step further with their Tetra Pak carton made of recycled materials to hold their organically grown and sustainably produced Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon and Mendocino Chardonnay, available in either .5 liter or 1 liter packages.

I attended a blogger tasting of Chilean wines last week and tried Veramonte Ritual Sauvignon Blanc from Casablanca Valley and made with the commitment to the environment as the backbone of the winery.  This happens through sustainable farming practices and a big focus on water conservation, so far resulting in a 35% reduction of water use at the winery over the past 3 years.  Their environmental focus helps craft their bright, crisp and balanced Sauvignon Blanc, filled with passion fruit and sweet pineapple layered with floral notes often found in Chilean Sauvignon Blanc.

For Texas wines, if you are looking for organic, sustainable or wines that believe in good stewardship of the land, Caprock Winery is producing a Viognier and Duchman is producing a Trebbiano and Vermentino from Bingham Family Vineyards which employs completely organic methods in their vineyards and farms.
Red Caboose Winery in Meridian, TX was built with sustainable design principles in mind, creating a winery with gravity wine flow, solar panels, geothermal chilling and cooling, capturing rainwater for irrigation, and using sustainable materials in construction.

Two weeks in Provence coming soon.

Get ready for Central Market’s yearly culinary salute to foreign food. In 2010, we celebrated Argentina (Hi, Francis!). Last year we pigged out on Spain (Hola, Paco!). This year they are throwing a two-week soiree for France, specifically the southern region of Provence, which will begin on May 9 and run through May 22.

Here’s a little poop I learned: Zee hottest ticket will be a seat in the outdoor tent where the kick-off event, “A Taste of Provence,” will feature a sampling of dishes prepared by Chef Patrice Olivon! C’est magnifique! You know Olivon, oui? He’s the cute French dude who won Iron Chef hosts “Dinner is Served,” a lovely show on PBS. It is set for Wednesday, May 9, and begins at 6 p.m.

The menu includes some personal favorites from his childhood (served family-style at long tables), which will be paired with French wines (shocker!). Think: Pissaladiere (thick, pizza-like dish popular in Nice and Marseilles); tomates farcies (tomatoes stuffed with beef, rice & herbs); cod with aioli; roasted lamb with ratatouille; and warm seasonal fruit cooked in red wine served over vanilla ice cream (really?). So frugal Francophiles, get a cheap trip ($35 per person) to Provence, if only for one evening.  Tickets can be booked by clicking here or by visiting the Cooking School reservation site for Dallas.

Sancerre! Profiteroles! A truffle in every pot! Vamos, I mean, nous permettre d’aller!

(Below, I will copy and paste an actual MEDIA-ONLY release so you can get an insider’s look on how real food writing works. I will pair it with commentary from a professional media person.

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE [Loud and clear! Got it. Type fast. Did somebody else get this while I was grabbing a sandwich. Hang on let me check the other sites!]

April 1, 2012 [WTF? Am I late here? It's April 16. Did this already go out and I am so screwed? Note to self: Google news before you write it. Alternatively, swear under your breath at PR people.]

CENTRAL MARKET PREPARES TO SHARE “L’ART DE VIVRE” [WHY didn't I think of that hed? (That's editorial lingo for headline. We are all too lazy to type the whole word out.]

Prepare for a gustatory tour of France’s famously food centric regions [Weak sub. Oh, that's edit-speak for sub-headline. Waaaay too long to type. "Food-centric regions" in France  is redundant.]

WHO: All Central Market stores across Texas [ Great start. WHO! Always start with WHO. It worked for Horton and it will work for you.]

WHAT: Get ready to celebrate two weeks devoted to France, a country know for its vast array of distinct food and wine offerings. Central Market, a division of H-E-B will host PASSPORT FRANCE May 9 – 22 to explore the delicious to be found in every day France, “a nation of Foodies.” [Yes, it pedestrian but it's short and to the point and food writers need short. And points. Next.]

This is the specialty retailer’s third foray into a wide-scale international celebration. In 2011, Central Market hosted Passport Spain; and in 2010 it launched with Passport Argentina.  Customers traveled the cultural and culinary landscape of these countries without booking a plane ticket or packing a bag. The events are known for their bounty of exciting food finds, live music and performers, authentic décor and celebrity chef and wine maker visits. [Great insert of backfill information. If I didn't work here last year, I now know how much great stuff I missed by living in Washington, DC.]

This May, CM store visitors can experience all things French during Central Market’s two-week extravaganza. Hands-on crepe making. Wine tastings hosted by winemakers, some part of multigenerational winemaking families. Stellar chefs such as Anne Willan of La Varenne and Patrice Olivon of PBS and Iron Chef fame will make appearances and host events. “An Introduction to French Cheeses” will be hosted by the Ambassadress of the French Cheese Club. [Okay, I'm fading a little.]

The aisles will be filled with finds from around France, such as La Mere de Poulard cookies, Kougin Amann, aged Comte, Petit Montebourg fresh cheese, Fallot Dijon and hundreds more, many exclusively available at Central Market. [I'm am so back. Those cookies are like crack, heroin, pot, and gin all baked into a thin disc of sin.]

From classes in the art of French cookery to French cheeses, breads and wine tastings, Passport France will take visitors on an incredible gustatory tour with no jet lag. [Well, I am confused. What do I do with all of this Ambien?]

WHEN: May 9 – 22, 2012 [Excellent information. Thank you Central Market for making my job a walk in the freaking park!]

WHERE: Central Market, all store locations: Austin, Dallas, Fort Worth, Houston, Plano,  San Antonio, and Southlake. Go to www.centralmarket.com for the latest details and to review classes available in May. Further details will be released as they are available. [Even bettah! There is more to come so I know there will be more to write. My job feels secure. Until the end of May.]

ABOUT CENTRAL MARKET: Central Market’s open, serpentine-flow, full view European-style layout offers a completely new food shopping experience.  A bountiful produce department with unmatched quality and variety, an 80-foot seafood case with selections from throughout the world, hundreds of cheeses, 2,500 wine labels, stupendous specialty grocery aisles with delights from every continent, and a world-class cooking school featuring hands-on instruction are among the features that make the Central Market experience unique. www.centralmarket.com. [Oaky, the serpentine-flow thing is getting old, but so am I. The store is really more maze-like but I suppose that would cause people to run for the straight aisles of Tom Thumb. Stupendous is a bit dramatic and delights, well my mind stayed to another train of thought, but I was immediately brought back to reality by the hands-on instruction. Oh, yes. France and hands. Good stuff. Count me in.]

Ruthie's Grilled Cheese Sandwich

Robin Skinner from Ruthie’s Rolling Cafe alerted me to the fact that today is National Grilled Cheese Sandwich Day.  According to a website called Punchbowl.com, it’s also National Grilled Cheese Sandwich Month. So technically, you have 18 days left to eat a grilled cheese sandwich in a celebratory fashion. Ruthie’s isn’t your only option.  In Dallas, you’ve got Highland Park Pharmacy. Lucky’s, and The Porch on Henderson as sit-down restaurant options. Norma’s Cafe is also offering a free grilled cheese to dine-in customers who visit either of its two locations, and a portion of the day’s sales will be donated to the American Red Cross North Texas Region to help with the tornado damage. Lee’s Grilled Cheese rolls in Fort Worth.

Ruthie’s will be at the Flagpole at SMU for lunch today and at Celebrate Uptown for dinner.  Lee’s Grilled Cheese will be closed today, but open at the Fort Worth Food Truck Park for Friday and Saturday lunch and dinner.

Where are you getting your grilled cheese sandwich fix today?

So, to enjoy this last day of festivities fully, great cocktails are required, and what is better than the most traditional flavors from the land of Mardi Gras in the US, New Orleans, as well as Brazil, Peru, even Mexico?  Mix one up and raise your glass high to toast this Fat Tuesday.

Pat O’Brien’s is perhaps the most well-known bar in New Orleans, famous for its hurricane. It has been a staple of the community since the early 1940’s when Pat O’Brien was trying to use up a large supply of rum he had bought and then created what has become the very famous hurricane.

The Hurricane
2 oz light rum, like Ron Brugal Blanco
2 oz dark rum, like Ron Abuelo Anejo
2 oz passion fruit juice
1 oz orange juice
juice of a half a lime
1 Tbsp simple syrup
1 Tbsp grenadine
orange slice and cherry for garnish
Directions:  Squeeze juice from half a lime into shaker over ice. Pour the remaining ingredients into the cocktail shaker. Shake well. Strain into a hurricane glass. Garnish with a cherry and an orange slice.

The Sazerac was originally created using cognac, but over the years that has changed to using rye whiskey or bourbon. This one, using Marker’s Mark 46, adds depth, smoke and sweetness from the aging of the bourbon with toasted French oak staves.

On the Mark Sazerac
3 parts Maker’s 46
¾ part simple syrup
Peychaud bitters to taste
Absinthe rinse
Lemon twist
Directions:  In a mixing glass, add simple syrup, bitters and Maker’s 46 with ice and stir and set aside.  In a chilled rocks glass, add absinthe and rinse by swirling liquid and then dumping it out.
Strain the Maker’s 46, simple syrup and bitters into the rocks glass and add the twist.

Interesting that Fat Tuesday falls the day before National Margarita Day on February 22, so if you need to enjoy your Margarita before giving up tequila on Ash Wednesday, try this tasty one from Camarena Tequila infusing fresh rosemary into the tequila for a fresh, herbal flavor.

Rosemary Lemon Frozen Margarita
10 oz Rosemary-infused Camarena Silver Tequila*
1 pint of Lemon Sherbet
4 oz Lime Juice
Rosemary Sprig for Garnish
Directions:  In a blender with ice, blend all ingredients. Pour into a margarita glass and garnish with a sprig of rosemary.
*Rosemary-infused Camarena Silver Tequila - Place 3-4 sprigs of fresh rosemary into a 750 ml bottle of Camarena Silver Tequila, and allow to sit for 24-48 hours. Remove rosemary sprigs when desired flavor has been achieved.

From the heart of Peru, Pisco Porton creates a cocktail for all sinners and saints on Mardi Gras.

Portón Spicy Halo
1.5 parts Pisco Portón
¾ part Triple sec
¾ part Lime juice
¾ part Blood orange juice
Directions:  Rim a martini glass with a mix of cayenne pepper and salt. Shake all ingredients with ice and pour into glass.

Head south to the land where Carnival has become as much of a way of life as breathing.  Brazilians embrace Carnival as if it was their birthright, celebrating throughout the season with festivals, dancing and heavy drinking, especially the national drink of Brazil, the Caipirinha, made with the national spirit of Brazil, Cachaça, or sugarcane alcohol often called Brazilian rum.  If you can’t find Cachaça you can substitute a Puerto Rican rum like Don Q, just don’t tell a Brazilian….they don’t believe there is a substitute for Cachaça.

Caipirinha
1 lime, sliced
2 ounces of Cachaça
sugar to taste
ice cubes
Directions:  Place the sliced lime and sugar in a rocks glass and muddle well.  Add Cachaça and ice and stir.  Garnish with a slice of lime.

All this mixing too much for you?  Let Twisted Shotz do the work for you with their pre-made layered shots ranging in flavors like Sex on the Beach, Stawberry Sundae, Whipped Orange (whipped cream vodka and orange cream liqueur), Buttery Nipple, Miami Vice (Strawberry Daquiri and Pina Coloda) and more, each with 20% alcohol and available in packs of 4 or a party pack of 15 shots, priced at about $1.50 each.  Twisted Shotz can be found at Spec’s.

Slow-cooked pork covered with caramelized onions and peppers.

Nick Badovinus and chef Dan Riley have been hunkered down for over a year developing the menu and creating all kinds of delicious roasted meats for Off-Site Kitchen. Today he is finally opening the doors!

Now, hold your horses. The dining room is tiny. Off-Site Kitchen is basically a take-out restaurant with a few stools inside and some picnic tables outside. Here are some pictures of what you can expect. The food, inspired by “what line cooks eat,” is basically simple sandwiches and breakfast burritos made from quality roasted meats. Roll the Badovinus quote of the year:

“It’s light industrial food,” he said. “It’s the kind of food you want to eat before you go solder something.”

Off-Site Kitchen will be open for lunch only from 10:30AM until 3PM for the next two weeks. Then the breakfast menu will kick in and they will begin serving at 7AM and will remain open until 7PM. “After we hit our stride, we’ll start rolling out the meat-by-the-pound program,” Badovinus said. “I’m so excited. This place is a real man cave.”

The original date for OSK’s opening was February 14, 2011. After Badovinus missed his mark, he decided to workshop the place and open on Valentine’s Day this year. “You see how many financial sacrifices I made to pay for my original vision,” Badovinus said. “I mean I’ve got a wheelbarrow of pork rinds down here. Who doesn’t love that?”

Badovinus was only half-joking about the Valentine’s Day opening. He and chef Dan Riley have used the Off-Site Kitchen space to tweak the menus of Badovinus’ other restaurants (Neighborhood Services, Neighborhood Services Tavern, and Neighborhood Services Bar & Grill). They also use the huge kitchen as a commissary for the other restaurants. The receive, portion, and distribute all of the meat and seafood at Off-Site Kitchen.

SOLDER, EAT, REPORT. No call-in orders. Plan to show up and wait.

[Also, Neighborhood Services Bar & Grill in Preston Royal will open for lunch in two weeks.]

The menu and photos are below.

Wheelbarrow of pork rinds.

Cherry cola pie.

Green chile cheeseburger.

First customer.

Pisco Sour with Pisco Porton at Bolsa

On the continued trend of every cocktail and spirit having its own day, Saturday marks Pisco Sour Day. Celebrated annually the first Saturday of February this day celebrates the Peruvian spirit Pisco, shaken or blended with lime, simple syrup and a bit of egg white to create the ideal refreshment on a hot summer day (it is summer in Peru.)  Earlier this week Johnny Schuler, a.k.a. Mr. Pisco, visited Dallas to make make sure we are ready to celebrate the occasion.  I had a chance to visit with Schuler at Bolsa to learn more about pisco and why he has spent the last 35 years making it the fifth white spirit of the world, “more flavorful than vodka, not as strong as tequila.”

A native Peruvian, Schuler wasn’t always a lover of pisco, preferring scotch or bourbon to the spirit of his homeland made from 8 different varietals of wine grapes.  A restaurateur since a young age he had never had the wow experience with pisco, as he often just tried what was poured out of a bartenders well.  In 1977 he was then asked to fill in as a last minute replacement judge for a pisco competition and began trying all types from the very small production of maybe 200 or 300 bottles per year to the large production styles.  After a few sips of premium pisco his eyes opened, the wow moment happened, and a new passion was born as he smelled the aromas of chocolate, vanilla, white pepper, tropical fruit like banana and mango.  He realized pisco was unlike any other spirit, made exclusively from wine grapes, with a very high alcohol content (some as high as 99% proof), and a wide variety of flavors.  And, like wine, each and every bottle was different as the terroir effects these grapes just like it would in any vineyard.

After taking the time to learn everything he could about the spirit, he was determined to help others see, taste and experience why pisco was so special.  Thus he adopted this role of “Mr. Pisco,” or ambassador for the spirit, traveling around Peru and the world, lecturing on the product, judging competitions, helping producers improve their product, teaching about its heritage and its importance to the Peruvian culture, but never really wanting to make it himself always just helping others.  Five years ago this pro bono work earned him the Medal of Honor from the Peruvian Congress for both his work on educating the world about pisco, and upholding Peruvian culture and tradition.

Mr. Pisco, Johnny Schuler

He had never wanted to get into the pisco making business, however a Texan changed his mind, as many Texans do when we set our minds to something.  A Houstonian oil-man had lived in Peru for many years and when returning home to Texas found he could not find a Pisco in the United States to fit his taste. Bill Kallop approached Schuler about making an ultra premium pisco for the U.S. market, and gave him the one thing Johnny required – free reign to make the product he wanted to.  Last March the first bottles of Pisco Portón rolled out of the circa 1684 distillery in Ica, Peru.  Portón is “gate” in Spanish, as pisco is the gate to happiness, pleasure and a new world; it is also representative of the gate at the opening of their distillery at Hacienda La Caravedo, the oldest distillery in the Americas.

Schuler has a hand in every portion of the business, as Master Distiller he oversees each step from riding through the vineyards they own to taste the grapes, negotiating with additional vineyard owners on the purchase of grapes, working harvest, watching over the fermentation and distillation, aging, blending and bottling.  Though he has help, the end result is completely a product of his vision and taste.

Pisco Portón blends Quebranta, Albilla and Torontel grapes which are distilled using the mosto verde, or “green must” method, which is also the highest quality pisco according to Schuler.  Mosto verde is an extremely expensive process because not all of the grape sugars are allowed to ferment into alcohol and thus there is less pisco in each batch, so more grapes are required for each bottle. It takes about fifteen pounds of grapes to produce one bottle of Portón.

Though often used as the spirit in cocktails, sipping the Portón neat allows the rich flavors of the spirit to shine, releasing aromas of wild flowers, chocolate, white pepper, banana and white peach.  Though high in alcohol it is surprisingly smooth without the burn some high alcohol spirits can have.  We tried it with a few cocktails as well including a mystery basket competition cocktail the staff at Bolsa had created with banana pudding (the basket ingredient), coconut milk and pisco – surprisingly good, as well as a traditional pisco sour.

When I asked Schuler what is the best way to enjoy pisco, he graciously noted that the best way to enjoy pisco is to sip it with friends.  Pisco brings people together through conversation, camaraderie and friendship.  After visiting with him and sipping his pisco I couldn’t agree more.
Pisco Portón is available at Specs.

Hippie donuts will be served in a groovy setting.Photography by Desiree Espada.

SideDish photographer Desiree Espada roams the roads with her camera looking for good things to eat and shoot. Check out her photo essay of Bolsa Mercado. Then feast your eyes on what to expect when the Jerry Garcia of donut making, James St. Peter, opens Hypnotic Donuts on Sunday, January 29.

Glory be to the donut.

Interior seating. Kate Nelson of Piecurious makes curious donuts. Photography by Desiree Espada.

James St. Peter rings up a sale. Photography by Desiree Espada.

The Zoo Ropa with iced animal cookies. Photography by Desiree Espada.

Jenni's evil Elvis: peanut butter with banana and bacon. Photography by Desiree Espada.

Greek yogurt parfait and The Hypnotic. Photography by Desiree Espada.

The Canadian Health Care. Photography by Desiree Espada.

The Biscuit Board. Photography by Desiree Espada.

Biscuit with peanut butter and jelly. Photography by Desiree Espada.

Fried chicken biscuit and gravy. Photography by Desiree Espada.

Hypnotic Donuts: Inside out. Photography by Desiree Espada.

Team Hypnotic: Rachel Villarreal, Kate Nelson,and James Baker. Photography by Desiree Espada.

Though Pinot Grigio isn’t the most common white grape varietal I think of for Australia I had a light and refreshing one from Fisheye Winery, a part of the Underdog Wine and Spirits group.  With a fun, bright label this screw top wine is a great palate pleaser when you need something refreshing and light.  Crisp tropical fruit and citrus flavors with a nice, clean finish.  Not overly complex, just a good approachable, inexpensive white to sip on its own on a patio, or as a pairing with grilled shellfish and salads.

Yalumba Viognier is one of the most well known Australian whites from this family owned winery established in 1849 by Samuel Smith.  Today the 5th generation Smith, Robert Smith, runs the operation which recently has really focused their operational efforts on improving the wineries carbon footprint by reducing emissions, increasing biodiversity and exploring organic opportunities.  Though the winery makes many wines, the most well known and highly awarded wine is their Viognier.  Filled with ripe peach, orange blossom and wild flower notes leading to peach, apricot and tropical fruit flavors.

Recently I met with 6th generation winemaker Scott McWilliam of McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Winery in New South Wales.  From one of the oldest wine-making families in Australia Scott celebrates tradition while bringing innovation to the winery established in 1877.  His well priced, easy drinking wines reaffirmed what I love about Australian wines, as noted at the top of this post, you can find a really good Australian wine for a really great price. His vibrant and dry Riesling opens with a pop of citrus and mineral notes leading to ripe pineapple and mango flavors with a clean finish.  His spicy Chardonnay layers white peach, white nectarine and golden apple notes with hints of baking spice and subtle caramel notes.  The Cabernet Sauvignon is meant to be drunk shortly after bottling to enjoy the fresh fruit flavors of this wine.  Blackberry and black cherry dominate this Cabernet with subtle touches of licorice, spice and just a touch of vanilla.

Penfold’s may be the best known brand out of Australia, establishing themselves as a leader in the industry early and making wines to fit every price point.  Started in 1844 by Doctor Christopher Rawson Penfold and his wife, who used their first produced bottles of wine as medicinal tonics for patients.  Named after Dr. Penfold’s son-in-law the Thomas Hyland line honors his pioneering spirit as Hyland led the company through much of its growth in the late 1800’s to 1914.  The Thomas Hyland Adelaide Shiraz opens with ripe, juicy blackberry and black plum notes followed by juicy blackberry jam flavors combined with hints of smoke, spice and chocolate with good body and a lush finish.  Not too overpowering, but nicely full and rich.

The Angrove Family Winemakers celebrated their 125th anniversary in 2011.  In 1886 Dr. William Thomas Angrove and family arrived in Southern Australia from Cornwall, England to establish a medical practice.  He started experimenting with growing vines in the rich soil of the Adelaide foothills and a new passion and business were born.  The 2011 inaugural release of Medhyk, or “doctor” in Cornish, celebrates this 125th year anniversary.  Named in honor of Angrove’s founder, this Mclaren Vales vineyards Shiraz is an excellent example of why this varietal is so nicely suited for Australia.  Ripe, well-rounded and robust with layers of juicy blackberry and blueberry, black licorice, dark chocolate and slight herbal notes of fresh thyme and sage.  A delicious wine that can be enjoyed now or easily held for several decades.

My initial response is: if you can circle the earth twice, why don’t you just drop off a few million pounds in places where one chicken for a village causes more excitement than the Super Bowl.

My secondary response is actually a question: How many chickens does it take to make 25 billion chicken wings. Hah! You say: do the math dummy; one chicken has only two wings. But your assumption would be wrong. I turned to the Wing-onomics department (true!) at The National Chicken Council for an answer.

You’ll have to jump because you, like chickens, cannot fly.

Wing-onomics

The vast majority of wings, especially those destined for foodservice, are disjointed, with the third joint (the thin part known as the flapper) being exported to Asian countries and the meatier first and second joints being sold domestically.  The wing is usually split into two parts or portions, known as the “drumette” and the mid-section or “flat” and sold to food service or retail outlets.

A chicken has two wings, and chicken companies are not able to produce wings without the rest of the chicken.  Therefore, the supply of wings is limited by the total number of chickens produced.  When the demand for wings is stronger than the demand for other chicken parts, the price of wings will go up. Wing prices always go up in the fourth quarter of the year as restaurants stock up for the Super Bowl and prices usually peak in January during the run-up to the big game.

In the Midwest, for instance which includes Indianapolis, home of Super Bowl XLVI, the price of wings (whole) for the week of January 16-20, 2012 was $1.96/lb wholesale, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Poultry Market News Service.   This represents a 50 percent increase in price from six months ago in July, 2011.

“The good news for consumers,” said NCC’s Roenigk, “is that food service and retail outlets generally plan months in advance for the NFL playoffs and Super Bowl Sunday, meaning that increased wholesale costs for the most part aren’t passed on to consumers’ plates.”

That’s great news. You might find this interesting as well.

According to NPD Group data, not all regions of the country are equal when it comes to eating wings.

This year’s Super Bowl matchup between the New York Giants and New England Patriots should hold wing consumption relatively steady compared to last year’s levels.   That is because New Englanders and Patriots fans are six percent less likely than the national average to order chicken wings at a food service establishment, but fans of the New York Giants and those others in the Mid-Atlantic region are 24 percent more likely.

A New York Giants – Baltimore Ravens match-up would have produced maximum wing consumption out of the four possible Super Bowl match-ups.   Those in the South Atlantic region, including Ravens fans, are 27 percent more likely than the national average to order chicken wings at a food service establishment.

Should the San Francisco 49ers have won in overtime and faced the Patriots, wing consumption would have taken a hit. Those in the in the Pacific region are 34 percent less likely to order wings.

I didn’t have the balls (that’s another story) to ask what would have happened if the Dallas Cowboys had made it to the Super Bowl, but my guess is that sales at Wingstop, based in Richardson, would have quadrupled and they would have probably had to rely on duck or grackle wings to meet the demand. As it is, Wingstop, with 500 locations, plans to “sauce and toss 5.6 Million Wings on Super Sunday.”

I love Boxing Day, the first business day after Christmas. All of Ontario closes and we sit on the chesterfield and chow down on donuts, beer, macaroni and cheese, and watch hockey. The NHL pretty much owns Canada on Boxing Day now. They have TEN GAMES scheduled. My friend’s mum puts out (uhoot) a hellofa buffet (boo-fay). And k.d. lang always sends me a fruit cake. Go Leafs! (Q: Why don’t the Leafs drink tea? A: Because the Canadiens have all the cups.) And hello Peterborough!

Changing the mural at Bar 828.

Arti Sharma, D Magazine intern and a grant writer for Promise House  the nonprofit that receives a portion of the proceeds from Bar 828, visited the popular pop-up bar last weekend and files this report.

Feel free to play some theme music.

Driving along the 800 block on the west side Davis Street, you may notice something particularly peculiar about the venue that sits on lot 828.  At first glance, you will see a tattered building that shells what may have been a forgotten afterthought, abandoned in the midst of what perhaps was meant to be an idea. You may not further heed its quaintness, and will write it off as an empty nest.  But you see, inside an oyster, sometimes there is a pearl.  And inside 828, is something just as precious and rare: Bar 828.

Pretty pictures of pretty pop-up bar below.

From the outside looking in.

Pop-up bars do not exist in Texas.  Until about a week ago.  That’s when Bar 828 pried opened its windows and pulled up its garage doors for guests who had serendipitously–or through the grapevine– stumbled upon this modern-day speakeasy that crafts pre-prohibition era cocktails, where a portion of the proceeds are donated to Promise House, a Dallas-based nonprofit.

Michael Martensen, partner of Bar 828 and part-owner of Cedars Social, says pop-up bars are a rarity because the requisite permits are extremely difficult to obtain.  However, about a month ago, when Amy Wallace Cowan and Rob Shearer, who are friends with Mark Miranda and Sean Byrnes, some of the partners who own the 828 building, were pontificating on ways to make use of building that is for sale, Martensen took it to another level.  “He not only wanted to do cocktails, but he wanted real glassware, and he wanted to involve the best bartenders around Dallas,” Wallace Cowan says.  Thus, the pop-up bar at 828 W. Davis Street was born.  It would function as a medium to showcase the space, serve pure-bred potations crafted by talented mixologists, and—what may be the cherry on top of the Old Fashioned— it would raise money for charity.

Promise House Inside, City Street Grille Food Truck Outside.

When it came to choosing a beneficiary, Wallace Cowan picked Promise House– one of the only homeless shelters in North Texas specifically for youth.  It provides a continuum of services including safe shelter, nutritious meals, medical care, psychological care, case-management services, on-site education, life and job skills, and more.  Martensen supported the idea as well as the mission behind Promise House because he believes the most influential time in someone’s life is during the teenage period.  It is when you develop your character and style as a person, Martensen says.

Whether you prefer fruity, savory or something-in-between, no palate is discriminated at Bar 828.  Ten dollars a pop (5 for the nonalcoholic bevs) and with no menu in sight, clients line up at the bar and explain what sorts of drinks they like. Your preferences are meticulously designed into a fresh-ingredient, quality cocktail– hand crafted by famous mixologists like Brian McCullough (ex- Smoke affiliate), who will open Standard Pour sometime in mid-November in Uptown Dallas.  “The pop-up bar was so well-received,” said McCullough, who practically cringed when he uttered the word, Vodka.  “Vodka is a neutral spirit,” McCullough says.  That’s the kind of stuff that makes him believe it’s time for uptown to mature its cocktail repertoire.  So don’t be surprised if you don’t see “three-olive anything” at Standard Pour’s debut.  But you can look forward to enjoying Green Hour with an old-world era drink in your hand, libations from all genres and decades, and barrel-aged concoctions (you will just have to wait and see).

Dressed for the occasion.

Until then, seize your one, last- Lost Weekend opportunity to explore 828 W Davis Street.  There are not many places around here that have that word-of-mouth-atmosphere, with a feel-good-charity vibe, and all of the trappings that capture the spirit of a speakeasy.  You can even come dressed for the occasion, as the closing of Bar 828 will end with a costume party this upcoming Saturday.  Cash only, drink-ticket system.  On-site food trucks around 10PM.

Finished mural.

Outdoor fun.

[Ed Note: This update from Bar 828 just in:

Great news for do-gooding cocktail lovers: A portion of proceeds will benefit local charity, Promise House

October 25, 2011 - Again & Again is thrilled to partner with BAR 828, the hip and charitable “pop-up” cocktail establishment in Oak Cliff, this Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Again & Again will transform the space with vintage furniture, all available for purchase, in an effort to encourage customers to be social in the name of charity.

The BAR 828 makeover will include Mid-century Modern, Hollywood Regency, and Danish Modern pieces, as well as some accessories and lighting. A portion of the proceeds from BAR 828 and Again & Again’s collaboration will go to Promise House, which helps disadvantaged and runaway kids. BAR 828 raised $1000 in its first weekend of operation, evidence of the bar’s huge success.

“Again & Again hopes to give BAR 828 a fun, vintage vibe that will add to the ambiance and take the bar to the next level, while at the same time raising funds to make a difference in the community,” said Again & Again owner, Leslie Pritchard.

BAR 828 is set up in an old warehouse and serves up a variety of cocktails from some of Dallas’ top mixologists. Since the cities’ first “pop-up” bar opened in mid-October, it has become a hot spot for cocktail-enthusiasts, with a menu featuring drinks from bars and restaurants including: the Windmill, Marquee Grill, Cedar Social, Whiskey Cake, The Usual, Sfuzzi, Bolsa, and more. BAR 828 will close its doors this Saturday, October 29.