(Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

This year’s Reserve Tasting, the event that rolls out the ultra premium wines and spirits (priced over $50 retail), took place Saturday evening at the  new Irving Convention Center at Las Colinas. The wines were mostly from the U.S., but there were representatives from France, Spain, and Argentina as well. I tasted as many as I could and give you my top five,  in order of discovery:

1. Krug Grande Cuvée, Reims, Champagne, France, MV. This classic Champagne lived up to its reputation
2. Clos Apalta, Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2008. Virtually opaque in the glass. Huge fruit. Needs a decade to sort itself out. We recommend this one for cellaring.
3. Wrath Chardonnay San Saba Vineyard, Monterey, 2008. Poor, locally owned Wrath was threatened with being buried by all the big names at this show. Only their refined Chardonnay, made in a big California style, could save them. It did, in spades.
4. Beaulieu Vineyards Private Reserve Georges de Latour Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2008. A California classic looks like it is on the way back.
5. Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon, Lot 1, Napa Valley, 2008. So limited, it did not even appear in the Savor Dallas program. Don’t be fooled by the minimalist label, this is a maximalist wine. It will age for a long time.

Inside the Nasher Sculpture Center (photo by Kasumi Chow)

Friday afternoon, I jetted out of the office and walked right into Savor Dallas’ Arts District Stroll, which is exactly the same stroll I take every day on my way to the Arts District Parking Lot. So, Friday was basically no different except for one Ron Corning sighting in front of the Meyerson, a couple hundred women teetering in high heels along Flora Street with wine glasses in hand, and some tipsy people groping their dates while waiting in line for food. How lovely.

The weather was so beautiful that I spent most of my strolling time in the Nasher Sculpture Center because the scenery came straight out of a fairytale, and I’d determined – after a quick tour of the Meyerson and Winspear – that the concentration of food was highest here. This is where to get your money’s worth in terms of edibles. The party was quick to end after a mere two hours, and all 1500 people that attended dispersed quickly after 7 PM, probably rushing off to the next event at Kessler Theater where more sips and nibbles awaited them.

Mint chicken salad from The Mint. (Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

The popular International Grand Tasting at Savor Dallas 2012 took place on Saturday night at Irving Convention Center in Las Colinas. Organizers noted the move from Dallas to Irving was to make it easier for the residents of Fort Worth to attend.  Any worry that the change in venue would deter event patrons was quickly dispelled once the doors  swung open.  The place was packed, people shuffled around tightly, filling the venue as guests got the opportunity to hob-nob and rub elbows with some of the finest chefs in DFW.  The food and drink were, of course, spectacular as chefs were well prepared to excite and surprise their guests this year.

While nearly every dish our small group sampled was delightful, we thought we would pay homage to some of the most exciting and delicious dishes presented this year.  So here are (in no particular order) our picks of the Top 10 Best Bites of the 2012 Savor Dallas International Grand Tasting…

Gazpacho from Dee Lincoln' Bubble Bar. (Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

1. Kelly Hightower/Wild Salsa: Shrimp albondigas (spicy shrimp meatball) with ground pumpkin seed and onion, topped with cilantro and contija cheese.  Definitely the spiciest dish of the night, but perhaps, my personal favorite.

2. Juliard Ishizuka/ Dee Lincoln’s: Tomato gazpacho with goat cheese, watermelon, cured chorizo, and micro arugala.  Fine use of spice, temperature, and citrus, all together refreshing and unique.

3. Nick Amoriello/Meddlesome Moth: Shrimp and grits with pepperjack, jalapeno country gravy, and “tons of cream, tons of butter.” Hard to go wrong there.

The spicy star of The Meddlesome Moth's shrimp and grits.(Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

4. Cesar Gallegos/Bolla: Smoked scallop crudo with avocado mousse, candied pepitas, jicama hot sticks, and a shot of Patron tequila. Bold flavors, unique presentation. I hope we get to see a lot more “hot sticks” in the future.

Brisket Tacos from Neighborhood Services.(Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

5. Jeff Bekavac/ Neighborhood Services: Street tacos of smoky, sweet barbecue brisket with a blue cheese coleslaw.

The Whiskey Cake.(Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

6. TJ Lengnick/Whiskey Cake: The Whiskey Cake, no one will question Chef Lengnick’s decision to bring the restaurant’s signature dessert to the party, nor do I think anyone will question its inclusion on this list. This thing is blissful.

7. Nicky Phinyawatana/The Mint: Minced chicken salad with lime, cilantro, mint, red pepper, served on baby endive and bok choy.

8. Pat Robertson/Five Sixty: Kobe beef tataki with asparagus salad, jalapeno ponzu, cilantro and fried garlic.

9. Kay Agnew/Margaux’s Bridge Bistro: Duck and andouille sausage gumbo.

10. Eric Brandt/Bisto 31: Escargot and pork belly with parsley pesto, walnut, and creamy polenta.

Goat Cheese and Sweet Onion Jam from JJ&B.(Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

Recognition should also be given to the always brilliant Scardello Cheese with their lovely offerings of royal cheddar, landaff, and bleu debasque; JJ&B (Jellies, Jams and Butters) for their splendid sweet onion jam; and Kaurina’s original “kulfi” or Indian ice cream bars in mango, cardamom cream, and pistachio almond. Seriously, people were freaking out about this ice cream, myself included, which can be ordered here from artizone.com.

Rich Rogers, cheesemonger and Michael Flynn, sommelier

I used to think that wine and cheese went together because cheese ameliorated some of the deficiencies in wine. It turns out I was wrong. This weekend, two experts in cheese and wine pairing presented a fascinating seminar, “The Perfect Pairing of Wine and Cheese,” to raise funds for the American Institute of Wine and Food. The event took place Saturday afternoon at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek. The cheese guy was Rich Rogers. He and his wife founded Scardello Artisan Cheese in Dallas three and a half years ago. The wine guy was Michael Flynn, wine and beverage director of Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek. He also contributed to the 2011 book A Food Lover’s Guide To Wine. So these guys have a lot of experience to contribute to this subject. And I learned more than I possibly thought I could.

Jump for the pairings.

Each participant received a plate of six cheeses. As Rogers went through each one, Flynn presented the wine he’d selected as a good match for the cheese and explained how he chose the wine.

Cana de Cabra

ONE____________________________________________________

THE CHEESE: Cana de Cabra, a Spanish goat cheese. Rogers notes described it as creamy with mild acidic and earthy notes.

THE WINE: 2010 Château de Sancerre. A sauvignon Blanc from the Sancerre region of the Loire River Valley in France.

THE RATIONALE: Acid in the cheese matches the acid in the wine.

MY TAKE: Excellent match.

TWO_________________________________________________________

St. Pat

THE CHEESE: Cowgirl Creamery ‘St. Pat’. A California cow’s milk cheese. Roger notes said ”These rounds are made with whole organic milk and are wrapped with stinging nettle leaves commemorating the arrival of spring in Marin County.”

THE WINE: 2011 Cape Mentelle, Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon Blend Margaret River. The Western Australia blend is New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc light in construction. Some herbaciousness but not as much as in the New Zealand wines. Fruity notes of lemons and some tropical fruit.

THE RATIONALE: Lemon flavors in the wine match the flavors in the cheese.

MY TAKE: This cheese was so mild that the wine dominated. Not sure if any wine would go well with this cheese. It may be best on its own.

THREE___________________________________________________________

Capricious

THE CHEESE: Achadinha Cheese Co., ‘Capricious’. A California goat cheese. Rogers’ notes said  “A truly unique artisan cheese made with attention to detail and naturally aged in the fresh Pacific Ocean air. Slight pungency and carmelly notes.”

THE WINE: 2008 Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay, Napa. A big oaky, tropical fruit Chardonnay made with finesse in the California style.

THE RATIONALE: Big cheese, big wine.

MY TAKE: Excellent match.

FOUR_________________________________________________________

Pagliarino

THE CHEESE Pagliarino. A raw sheep’s milk cheese from Italy. Rogers note said “A sheep’s milk cheese aged six months with a white to pale yellow interior. Its mild in flavor, but with great depth and magnificently long finish.”

THE WINE: 2007 Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir, Marlborough, new Zealand.

THE RATIONALE: The mild cheese works with a red wine that is not overly tannic.

MY TAKE: Excellent match.

FIVE_____________________________________________________________

Cabot Clothbound

THE CHEESE: Cabot Clothbound. An artisanal cheddar from the Cabot Creamery in Vermont. Do not confuse this cheese with their more commercial offerings. It is made in a separate facility in order that the yeasts do not interact. Rogers’ notes said “The aroma is pleasant and fresh on the tongue. The cheese is moist, creamy, and mellow with flavors of nuts, fruits, butter and caramel.”

THE WINE: 2007 Newton Unfiltered Merlot, Napa.

THE RATIONALE: Big cheddar can ameliorate the tannins in this astringent wine. The fat absorbs the tannin and the salt in the cheese anesthetizes the tongue to its effects.

MY TAKE: Excellent match.

SIX_______________________________________________________________

Mahon Reserva

THE CHEESE: Mahon Reserva. A Spanish raw cow’s milk cheese. Rogers’ notes: “Mahon is simultaneously sweet, nutty, sharp and buttery with a light golden paste and a fiery orange rind.

THE WINE: 2009 Numanthia ‘Termes’. A Tempranillo from the Toro region of Spain.

THE RATIONALE: The wine has the fruit to stand up to the sharpness in the cheese.

MY TAKE: Excellent match.

This was a very informative class and these two presenters should consider doing it again.

Here’s my list of suggested highlights of the wines offered at the Reserve Tasting this year. I’ve  listed by normal tasting order. Comments may be totally out of order.

Sparkling

Dom Pérignon Blanc, Épernay, Champagne, France, 2002

Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France, 1998 – Ruinart is one of Champagne’s underrated producers

Krug Grande Cuvée, Reims, Champagne, France, MV – predicted Best of Tasting

Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Brut Rosé, Épernay, Champagne, France, 2002

Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Blanc, Épernay, Champagne, France, 2002

Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame, Champagne, France, 1998

White Table Wines

Sauvignon Blanc

Robert Mondavi Reserve Fumé Blanc, To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville District, Napa Valley, 2008 – Fumé Blanc. The wine that saved Sauvignon Blanc in Napa and one of the late Robert Mondavi’s greatest contributions to California.

Quintessa “Illumination” Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, 2010

Chardonnay

Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Clavoillon”, Cote du Beaune, 2009 – the sole white Burgundy in the tasting should nonetheless impress.

Red Table Wines

Pinot Noir

Wild Horse “Cheval Sauvage” Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley, 2007 – we are Cabernet heavy in reds, so I hope this satisfies Pinot Noir lovers.

Cabernet Sauvignon and Blends

Beaulieu Vineyards Private Reserve Georges de Latour Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2008. – a classic Napa Cabernet . See how it is fairing up?

Charles Krug Family Reserve “Generations”, Napa Valley, 2008

Cheval des Andes, Las Compuertas Lujän de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, 2007. Made by Pierre Lurton (Cheval Blanc) and Nicolas Audebert (Cheval des Andes). A French-style Argentine Malbec. This is the wine for those brave enough to buy a Hyundai Equus. No label cachet, but the smart choice of insiders.

Clos Apalta, Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2008. – Greatest wine in Chile? Possibly. It alternates with Concha Y Toro’s Don Melchor. One thing I know. After a decade of ageing both of these wines are sublime. The Clos Alpalta is  mainly Carmenère grape as well –  but no pronounced green pepper in the bouquet.

Louis M. Martini Monte Rosso Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley, 2008

Newton Vineyard, “The Puzzle”, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley, 2008 – Venerable Newton’s approach to a Bordeaux blend.

Numanthia “Numanthia”, Toro, Spain, 2008 – Numanthia. Just a glass or two of these old Tempranillo vines makes it possible to hold up your end of the conversation when discussing string theory with Paris Hilton. Ferran Adria put Spain on the world culinary map. Numanthia is one of the producers putting her on the viticultural map.

Quintessa, Rutherford, Napa Valley, 2008. — Respected Napa Cabernet producer. Recommend you cf. this with the Robert Mondavi Oakville. The AVAs are next door neighbors.

Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville District, Napa Valley, 2008 – classic Napa Valley floor wine. Treat this as a reference point when comparing with other Cabernets, especially the Quintessa and the Mount Veeder 2006 to be served at this tasting.

Zinfandel

Louis M. Martini Monte Rosso Vineyard Gnarly Vine Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley, 2009

Rosenblum Cellars Maggie’s Reserve Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley, 2009

Dessert Wines

Fuqua Winery Cavalier Tawny Port Vat #13, Madera, NV – a California wine made in Texas, but the fact is clearly declared on the label. Kudos for full disclosure. This wine won a ‘Best Of Class’ at the prestigious San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

Graham’s 20 Year Tawny Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, NV

Inniskillin Winery Icewine Cabernet Franc, VQA Niagara Peninsula, 2007 – a good example of the refined dessert wines coming out of Canada.

On March 4th, the dynamic ladies of the Dallas Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier host their annual raiser grazer and silent auction at Union Station from 5pm-8pm, with this year’s theme being “Dames In The City.” Les Dames is truly a one-of-a-kind organization, dedicated to supporting and promoting the achievements of women in the culinary profession. The Dallas chapter, which started in 1985, is filled with some of the finest women in the city whose passion for the food, wine and hospitality professions shines from deep within, including Grande Dame Caroline Rose Hunt, Janet Cobb, Janice Provost, Courtney Luscher, Rachel Gaffney, Sharon Hage, Kathryn Hall, Gina Puente and so many, many more. In celebration of Julia Child and what would have been her 100th birthday, the event will also feature a cake walk in her honor. Their annual event raises funds for their many endowment, scholarship and grant programs focused on helping women interested in food, wine and hospitality professions. Tickets are available here.

16 year Cotes du Coeur participants Chefs Jim Severson (left) and David Holben

Last night, Côtes du Coeur hosted their Chef Announcement party for the 2012 Cotes du Coeur International Fine Wine Auction and Celebrity Chef Dinner. Unfortunately, Chef Richard Chamberlain, Côtes du Coeur Founding Chef, was absent due to being a bit under the weather, but some of his fellow heart health conscious pals attended, including Chefs Jim Severson, David Holben, David McMillan, Kevn Garvin and Anthony Bombaci. Other participating chefs for 2012 include Chefs Dean Fearing, Kent Rathbun, Bruno Davaillon, Scott Gottlich, and more embarking on this year’s theme, a voyage of the heart, to make the 2012 event the best of its 20+ years.  2012 Cotes du Coeur for The American Heart Association will take place on April 14th, 2012 at the Hilton Anatole.  Tickets will be available shortly so check back often.

If you are in the mood to leave town, consider heading west to the picturesque Texas town of Buffalo Gap for their annual educational food and wine summit from April 20-22. Chef Stephan Pyles has been a partner at this event for years, as have Dallas’ Brenda and Clay Cockerell of Coquerel Family Wine Estates. The mission of the weekend is to cultivate the appreciation of fine wine and food through education and industry discussions. It is also a great opportunity to sip incredible wine from California, Texas, and Italy this year. Dive into hearty Texas cowboy-influenced cuisine at the Perini Ranch in Buffalo Gap.

Savor Dallas is just around the corner, holding their 8th annual event the last weekend of March. This year its International Grand Tasting heads to the new Irving Convention Center due to the ever- expanding size of the event. A silent auction will be held at the Grand Tasting, featuring large format wines, wine tours and luxury get-aways with proceeds benefiting the North Texas Food Bank. Tickets available here.

And, if you haven’t purchased your tickets for the May 6th Chefs For Farmers Mixin’ It Up on the Boulevard event at Lee Park, you should now! This is a great opportunity to taste delicious bites from some of the best in Dallas, get to know some of the local farmers in the area and help two great causes, Meals on Wheels, Inc. and Water for Chizavane.

Update – A few more opportunities just came to light (a.k.a. the press releases just hit my inbox.)

Though wine won’t be flowing at the North Texas Food Bank Empty Bowls event on March 9 at the Meyerson, the event is certainly a great opportunity to sip and slurp hearty bowls of delicious soup from area restaurants including Nick and Sam’s Grill, Bolsa, Hatie’s, Truluck’s and many, many more for a great cause.  Empty Bowls benefiting The North Texas Food Bank has helped provide over 2.5 million meals since the event started in 1990.  Tickets available here.

March 8th, World Kidney Day, Executive Chefs Scott Gottlich and William Koval will team for the second annual Bonne Santé, a food and wine showcase benefitting the National Kidney Foundation.  The walk around stroll event will feature Chefs Abraham Salum, Bruno Davaillon, Samir Dhurandhar, Joel Harloff, and many more including a few out of town guests like Shawn McClain from Sage at ARIA Resort & Casino in Las Vegas and Pascal Sanchez and Gianni Santin from TWIST by Pierre Gagnaire, also in Las Vegas.  Each chef’s specialty dish will be matched with a perfect wine pairing.  Tickets available here.

Teresa “Gubbshoe” Gubbins and Mike “Whole In One” Hiller tied in a race to be the first to report the closing of Horne & Dekker. Gubbshoe coaxed a quote from owner Flynn Dekker. However, Hiller has some bitchin’ discounts on laundry detergent you can download from escapehatchdallas.com.

Leslie “LaLa” Brenner ran the inside track and clearly beat the field on this announcement: Michael Sindoni, formerly of AGAINN restaurant in Washington DC, has taken the reigns as The Joule hotel’s Executive Chef and will be responsible for overseeing all food & beverage for the hotel including private banquets, room service, and the new Charlie Palmer food hall which is part of the hotel’s 2012 expansion. The restaurant will close for a short while and emerge as Charlie Palmer Steak which will be overseen by executive sous chef Joel Harrington. “LaLa” also admits she has a mild eating disorder when it comes to bread crumbs: “I am a sucker for bread crumbs,” she writes. “And they seem to be very much in the air these days. Or in the kitchen, anyway.”  And I thought it was ragweed! (SideThought: Who thought the name AGAINN was a good idea?) Moving on.

EaterDallas needs a boost to their self esteem. This morning they use today’s warm weather forecast as a clever lead into the riveting announcement of Eater Hottest Chef Competition. Then they bash themselves over the head for doing so: “…while we’ve never been great at weather metaphors we are about to get real good at giving you some eye candy. Who is the hottest?” I think the metaphor worked beautifully. After all, it is as hot as Dean Fearing outside at this very moment and the forecast says late afternoon temperatures will be as cool as Matt McCallister. Good work, Merritt!

The 8^th Annual Savor Dallas is almost here! March 30-31 to be exact. Cue the press release quote from Jim “Red” White:  “We are excited to see Savor Dallas grow from its downtown Dallas base to include new events in Bishop Arts and Las Colinas.” says Jim White, Savor Dallas co-founder along with his wife Vicki Briley-White. “We’ve added a cool concert at the Kessler Theater, and created some great cooking and tasting opportunities that will benefit local food and wine groups like Les Dames d’Escoffier.” The White’s and company have lined up some big names in the business and have 400 premium wines to pour. It’s all here. Or call 888-728-6747.