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Articles about R.I.P.

Dallas SWAT Officer Shoots and Kills Chef Travis Henderson

I just received word from Tracey Evers of the Dallas Restaurant Association: former chef and co-owner of The Place at Perry’s, Travis Henderson, was killed earlier this morning in Carrollton by a member of the Dallas SWAT team. The news of Henderson’s death is heartbreaking. Henderson was a devoted, hard-working chef. While he was chef at The Place at Perry’s, he was in constant contact with the media and promoted the restaurant and his co-workers with great pride. Henderson was the creator of one of the best chicken-fried steaks in Dallas. He was a lovely person and his talent will be missed. R.I.P, dear Travis. Dallas will not be the same without you.

Funeral Services Held Today For Chef Jean LaFont

Chefs surround the casket of Dallas chef Jean LaFont.

This morning chefs from all over the world gathered at St. Monica Church in Dallas to pay their last respects to Dallas’ most significant chef Jean LaFont. Once family and friends were seated, a parade of over 50 chefs dressed in chef whites filed down the aisle. It was a stunning moment. Forgive me for not getting all of their names in here. I hope if you were there, you will leave your name below. I recognized, with the help of Chris Ward: Chef Ewald Scholz, Chef Christian Gerber, Chef Cherif Brahmi, Chef Didier Viriot, Jean Marie Cadot, Chef Louis Vacher, Chef Joe Garza, Chef Laurent Champalle, Chef David Brawley, Chef David Sokol, Chef Chris Ward, Chef Sharon Van Meter, Chef Pete Curley. Other notable names include Phil Vacarro, Anne and François Chandou, and Patrick Esquerre. Hedda Dowd and Jim Deibel both spoke. Deibel told the crowd how he entered the “French-only” kitchen at Oz and applied for a job while all the other chefs snickered. Dowd, a longtime friend of LaFont, gave a moving speech on LaFont’s character. He left home at 13 to become a butcher and worked his way up through every station in traditional brigade system kitchens of France. “He was a “complete chef,” she said. “He was a rôtisseur, a patissier, a saucier, a poissonnier. He could do it all. He was a chef whose presence was known the second he walked into a kitchen.” To paraphrase Dowd, Jean LaFont taught so many chefs how to cook, the ripple effect of his talent will be with us for a long time. LaFont is survived by seven children: Sonia, Stephanie, Jean-Luc, Mireille, Jean-Pierre, Magali, and Marise; four grandchildren, two sisters, and two former wives. And a huge community of food loving friends. The family will be checking this site. Please feel free to leave them a note. (Or correct my spelling!) Short video after jump. (more…)

Funeral Services Set For Chef Jean LaFont

One of Dallas’ most important chefs, Jean LaFont, passed away on Saturday. He was 72.

Services for Chef LaFont will take place on January 31 at 10:00AM at St. Monica Catholic Church at the corner of Midway and Walnut Hill.

UPDATE: SORRY FOR THE CONFUSION BUT THINGS HAVE CHANGED AGAIN: HERE IS THE RECENT UPDATE FROM THE FAMILY:

1. Service is being held at St. Monica Catholic Church, 9913 Midway Road, Dallas, TX, at 10:00, not 10:30.They are asking all chefs to wear their chef whites and hats to the service.  They will be taking a picture of all chefs with a large picture of  Chef Jean LaFont.

2. Reception is being held at Prestonwood Country Club, 5909 Preston Road, Dallas, TX, immediately following the service.

3. At this point there is not a specific area at Prestonwood Country Club, but they will direct you when you approach the front door. Chefs can change clothes if they choose.

4.. There will be a basket at the service for notes.  Later today I will receive a mailing address for those of you who care to send notes to the family.

Dallas’ Finest: Chef Jean LaFont, R.I.P.

The opening spread of D Magazine's April 2002 article "Best New Restaurants in Dallas." Jean LaFont photographed at Le Rendezvous by Kris Hundt. Many thanks to Gwen Watel for sending a picture of the article.

One of the finest and most influential chefs in Dallas, Jean LaFont, passed away late this afternoon. He was 72. According to his good friend and former student Mercury Chef Chris Ward, LaFont died from cancer which was detected around Christmas.

LaFont was a gentle, caring, immensely talented man who influenced many people during his 35 years in Dallas. There are many chefs and restaurateurs in Dallas who owe their careers to LaFont.

In the early 70s, Jean LaFont was working at the Rainbow Room in New York when he was lured to Dallas by Phil Vacarro to oversee his growing empire of restaurants that included Arthur’s, Old Warsaw, Les Saisons, and Mario’s. LaFont eventually moved to the Pyramid Room at the Fairmont Hotel and never-to-be-forgotten Oz in 1974. Over the years, LaFont continued to cook, consult, or both with many restaurants.

The only thing he failed to do successfully was retire. “When I see a restaurant I just always want to be in the kitchen,” LaFont said in a phone interview last year. “It’s very hard to let it go from your system.”

He tried to retire several times beginning in 2000 but he kept popping up in Dallas kitchens. In 2002, he took over at Le Rendezvous in Preston Royal. In October 2004, then Dallas Morning News Restaurant dining critic, Dotty Griffth wrote: “Venerable chef Jean LaFont has come back more often than Cher and Mickey Rooney combined. At least Mr. LaFont returns to what he knows and does best: fine French cuisine.”

Griffith was referring to LaFont’s, a restaurant in Addison he opened with Al Amadeus. Then came LaFont’s Steakhouse in the old Morton’s space in Addison. Between his travels, LaFont returned to Dallas and consulted on many high-profile restaurants. In 2003, Mico Rodriquez threw a party to honor names from the pantheon of Dallas dining: not only LaFont but also Riviera owner Franco Bertolasi, cellar master Tony LaBarba, chef George Patrice, chef Ewald Scholz, restaurateur Phil Vacarro, and chef Rene Weibel. D publisher Wick Allison wrote this account of the evening.

In D Magazine’s 30th Anniversary Issue (October 2004) I summarized the significant role LaFont played during his then 30-year career in Dallas restaurants. More specifically, his ability to take classical French cooking to another level when he was the executive chef of Oz in 1974:

THE WIZARDS OF OZ: Sous chef Guy Bernal (left) and executive chef Jean LaFont put chic substance, like duck with fresh peaches, on the menu at the stylish Oz. (1974)

When Oz opened in the nosebleed country on LBJ, it changed everything. For the first time, you were where you ate. But behind the glitz and glamour of the tri-level, mirrored, neon-lit club, there was a serious kitchen, run by French chef Jean LaFont, that produced highly imaginative, mostly French-style food. We raved breathlessly about “quenelles so light they take your breath away.” Food became part of the definition of hip. And it’s been that way ever since.

Owner of Dallas Ghostbar Found Dead of Apparent Suicide in Aspen

Scott DeGraff, the man who launched the N9NE Group with Michael Morton died on Thanksgiving Day. DeGraff’s body was found in the garage of a home in east Aspen. An autopsy will be performed today to determine the official cause of death which police are calling an apparent suicide. DeGraff was 47.

DeGraff and Morton ran restaurants and nightclubs in Chicago, Las Vegas, and Dallas. They opened N9NE Steakhouse and Nove in Victory Park and Ghostbar in the W Hotel Dallas. Both N9NE and Nove closed. However, Ghostbar is still going strong. According to the Aspen Daily News, DeGraff moved to Aspen in late 2008 and hit financial problems.

What a strange coincidence: In September, Billy Reiger, one of the partners of Kenichi Dallas, also committed suicide in Aspen. Dallas Kenichi is just down the street from DeGraff’s businesses.

Steve Hartnett, R.I.P.

Steve Hartnett heads to Uzbekistan with the troops on C-130 cargo plane.

Steve Hartnett heads to Uzbekistan with the troops on C-17 cargo plane.

Early this morning Steve Hartnett lost his battle with prostate cancer. He was 61. Hartnett is best known as a restaurateur. He was a dynamic force behind Fox and Hound, Bailey’s Pub and Grille, Cool River Cafe, Flip’s Patio Grille, Winewood, and Mi Dia. Hartnett also owns the Bob’s Steak and Chop House in Grapevine. At one point, Hartnett owned over 200 restaurants. However, Hartnett considered designing and operating restaurants as a hobby. His “real day jobs” were futures trader and real estate developer.

I met Steve in 2002 when he was part of a group of restaurateurs I joined to travel to Uzbekistan where we prepared a steak dinner for 2,000 soldiers at an airbase outside of Karshi. The mission, headed by Harvey Gough, also included Gene Street, Rhett Stein, Tony Booth, Rob Holmes, and Robert Ozarow. The complete wacky story is here.

After a 6-hour layover at Bagram Airbase, 27 miles north of Kabul, Afghanistan, we took off for for Karshi. Fifteen minutes later, Bagram was attacked. Once we arrived at “K-2,” we lived in cargo containers and hung out with the first troops and Special Forces units sent to battle. On the evening of our dinner, Steve stood up and gave a patriotic toast to the officers in a private dining area. After he finished, he went over to the next tent and worked and visited every table to thank the soldiers for their service.

Hartnett was a consummate professional. He was generous with his restaurant employees, investors, and business staff. He was one of the nicest men I’ve ever had the pleasure to work with. He was a perfectionist, a philosopher, and a true entrepreneur. Our condolences to his wife Sandy, son Taylor, and daughter Dionne. Services pending.

Ed Bamberger of Single Gourmet Died Sunday

Ed Bamberger of Single Gourmet.

Ed Bamberger, a great lover of fine food, wine, and travel, died Sunday after a long battle with prostate cancer. According to his wife Mariann, Ed passed away peacefully in his sleep.

Ed described himself as “an easy-going people person.” He was active in the food and wine community and volunteered his time for events. Ed also organized Single Gourmet, an organization that brought single people together through special food-related events.

He also had a keen eye for grammatical errors. I got emails from him all the time notifying me of typos or broken links on SideDish.

A memorial service will take place in a few weeks. Ed, I’m not going to divulge your SideDish user name, but the brilliant observations you brought to our forum will be missed.

Feel free to leave messages to the family below. I will post details for the memorial when they are finalized.

Studs Terkel Was My Homeboy—Or What’s On the Menu For Your Labor Day Cookout?

After staring into my fridge for the umpteenth time this week and exclaiming out loud to anyone within earshot, “Who lives here, and why don’t they buy any food??” I’ve realized that it’s time to actually go to the grocery store. And with the long Labor Day weekend ahead of us (I vaguely remember offering to host a cookout at the family compound), I’d better get on the menu-planning ball sooner than later.

Also, apropos the holiday, back in the early 1990s I went to hear Studs Terkel speak on the topic of labor and will never forget what an eye-opener it was to finally understand what the holiday was all about. It’s a fine thing to have gotten dressed-down by the cigar-smoking big pappa of the working class. I have to admit, I was a little bit in love with him after that. So every year I offer a toast Studs (and promise to name a child or dog after him someday). Often there’s a signature drink involved. One year we created a drink called “The Working Poor,” but that bummed everybody out. Another year it was a gin concoction called “Not In My Bathtub,” but the gin made everybody mean. So a new drink is in order.

Problem is, I’m flat out of ideas. So, I’m going to steal some from you. What dishes are you making for your Labor Day gathering? And while you’re at it, any suggestions for a Labor Day-themed drink are welcome. Hell, if I get enough good ones I might even mix up a few and let the guests decide.

Lab-Grown Meat? Less Sci-Fi and Far More Relevant to the Texas Economy Than You Might Imagine

I listen to a lot of public radio. A couple months ago, my home girl Terri Gross broadcast an interview on Fresh Air that focused on the logistical and ethical questions at play regarding growing meat from stem cells in a laboratory setting.

Before you jump to conclusions about real vs. lab-created meat, science writer Michael Specter, who traveled to laboratories in the Netherlands and North Carolina to examine the progress scientists have made in developing in vitro meat, is quick to point out that this is real meat. It’s real muscle cells, the same ones that live inside a real cow, minus the environmental bugbears such as pesticides, UV radiation, etc. (Specter wrote about the arguments in favor of lab-made steaks in the May 23 issue of The New Yorker.)

Even though the technology and global feasibility are still in development, I’d lay money on the fact that the technology’s not going to fade away. And being that this is Texas, this is a topic worth familiarizing ourselves with so that we can have a reasonable discussion about the technology’s pros and cons.

Pros: a reduction in animal cruelty and greenhouse gas emissions

Cons: You tell me. Especially in light of rising population numbers and the domino effect of socioeconomic and environmental pitfalls associated with feeding all those people.

Agriculture stats show that the largest share of Texas’ agricultural income is derived from beef cattle. Texas ranks #1 in the country in cattle raised—a number that can exceed 14 million head. That’s about 20 percent of the nation’s beef cattle.

I encourage you to listen to the episode of Fresh Air and read Specter’s article, then return for a discussion in the comments section.

Spokesman for Heart Attack Grill is Dead at 29

The other day we talked about the Heart Attack Grill. Currently their are plans for the Arizona-based burger joint to open near the West End.The menu promotes huge portions, greasy burgers, and fries cooked in lard. This morning comes news that Blair River, the 575-pound spokesman for the blossoming chain, died yesterday from pneumonia after a bout with the flu. Perhaps they need to workshop their concept.

Special Report: Remembering Mama Ida Papert

TRUE FRIEND: Ida Papert has shopped at and supported the Dallas Farmers Market since the ’50s. photography by Elizabeth Lavin

Chad Houser, chef at Parigi, is the president of Dallas Farmers Market Friends, the organization founded by Ida Papert. He asked his good friend Randy Potts to write a short piece about Mama Ida. “I didn’t really choose Ida, or intend to write a piece like this,” says Potts. “Houser asked me to write a couple paragraphs on her for the Friends but I pretty much fell in love with her in the process and wrote this as a sort of tribute, not really knowing if I’d ever do anything with it.”

So far only tentative plans for public services have been announced: They will be held at Temple Emanu-El on Monday, January 31st at 2 pm, but please confirm that time tomorrow morning  here on SideDish or in the DMN.

Update: According to Mama Ida’s good friend Marsha Singer, the correct time for the service is 12:30 PM tomorrow.

Below is a tribute written by Randy Potts.

“Mama” Ida and the Friends of the Farmers Market: The Story of Dallas’ Favorite Locavore

Not every farmers market has a local matriarch, but the Dallas Farmers Market does, and her name is Ida Papert. Walking through the market on a Saturday morning, “Mama” Ida is greeted like royalty, hugged at almost every stall, her money often refused. She carries a bag around with her that says “Ida’s Gotta Have,” and this bag is full from the beginning of her shopping to the end. Her bag begins the shopping day filled with preserves she’s made from produce she bought at the market, and as she goes around distributing her little jars at each stall she is given something in return – tomatoes and spinach from Mr. Lemley, fresh eggs from Paul the Sweet Roasted Corn Man. On this particular Saturday, “Mama” Ida has made Red Pepper jelly, and sent me home with a jar as well.

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Ida Papert Founder of Dallas Farmers Market Friends is Dead

Mama Ida and the winning team of Joshua Webster, Elvin Westbrook, Charles Miller, and Aaron Cessac at the Third Annual Mama Ida's Ice Cream Social in 2008.

I am so sad to report that Ida Papert passed away last night. Mama Ida has been a driving force behind the Dallas Farmers Market since the mid-50s. Her tireless efforts to make the Farmers Market a vibrant force in downtown Dallas are well-known among foodies, farmers, and bureaucrats alike. In 1991, she formed the Dallas Farmers Market Friends, an advocacy group that boasts more than 400 members, and, in 1993, she joined forces with the American Institute of Wine and Food to start cooking classes in the Market’s Shed No. 2.

Each summer the Dallas Farmers Market Friends hosts the Mama Ida’s Ice Cream Social.  Local culinary students and kids from the Dallas County Youth Village are given local ingredients and a chance to compete for a cash prize. She was a tireless fighter for farmers and local ingredients. Personally, I can not imagine a world without Mama Ida. She was a dear friend and the most loving, giving person I’ve ever know.

Mama Ida, we will miss you. I think we should organize a effort to name one of the sheds after Mama Ida.

CuriousDish: Which Dallas Restaurant Would You Revive?

Let’s take a break from the restaurants still here and think about those that we miss. Imagine you had the power–a genie in a bottle of Chateau Latour Pomerol to grant you one wish. If you could rub her it and be granted the gift to bring one dead restaurant back to life, which one would you revive and why?  Riviera? Routh Street? Nero’s?

UPDATE: After roughly 24 hours, over 100 Dishers had asked their genies to revive their favorite restaurants!! Let’s dig through and see.  After 146 genie rubs, Lola gets the most requests, at 8.  Lots of love for Il Sorrento with 6 rubs and Cuidad at 5.  The Wine Press and Uncle Tai’s had 4 mentions.  Surprises for me included Routh Street and The Riviera only getting one comment each.  Lots of love spread out for Stephan Pyles’ concepts including Baby Routh (3), Star Canyon (3), and Aquaknox (2).

Nothing to Do With Food In Dallas

What to show off how intimately in touch you are with Dallas minutiae?

Question 1: What is that in the picture?

Question 2: Where is it?

The Last Supper at Aurora was Almost My Last Supper

Avner Samuel tops his sea urchin parfait with a pinch of gold leaf. Photo by Christina Barany.

Unfortunately, Uncle Nancy wasn’t feeling well yesterday, so she sent me along with People Newspapers photographer Christina Barany to cover The Last Supper at Aurora. Chef/owner Avner Samuel said he was going to pull out all of the stops on this dinner, and he most certainly did. It was an elaborate 11-course meal that consisted of some of the most exquisite ingredients around. Think black summer truffles, prime osetra caviar, and gold-leaf garnishes. And the service was superb – the waiters were polite and attentive. It was my first time to dine at Aurora, and I’m heartbroken that I won’t be able to return like so many of Avner’s loyal customers have over the years. I can easily say it was the best meal that I have ever had. But my post-meal happiness quickly turned to panic when I received the bill. I thought this was literally going to be my last supper. I was either going to die of a heart attack right then and there, or Uncle Nancy was going to kill me with her bare hands for somehow managing to rack up a $560 ticket. I tossed and turned all night trying to figure out the best way to break the news to Nancy, none of which really sounded like great options. I thought up story after story, but I decided the truth was the way to go. Jump for Nancy’s reaction and the recap.

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Food Blog Commentor, BillUSA99, Died Sunday

Frequent blog commenter Bill Kennedy, known by “BK” and “BillUSA99,” passed away yesterday after a long battle with pancreatic cancer. He was 55.

Teresa Gubbins knew Bill and writes a lovely post about the talented, knowledgeable reader who rarely let a dumb post or comment escape his candid opinion. 

I’ve pulled a few of BillUSA99’s comments from SideDish. The energy he devoted to voicing his opinions about Dallas and the Dallas food scene will be missed.

On Dave Faries Leaving Observer:

“It’s so much fun to watch people raise effigies of praise to wanna-be food op-ed writers. Years of Chowhound contributions? PUHleeeeze… all you get from that is crabs.”

On Re-Opening of Green Room:

“Nowhere do the new owners say they are trying to recreate anything of the former Green Room, except for the price point-food value ratio. Nowhere. So anybody that is lamenting that they won’t be able to fill the old shoes, or it won’t be the same without Cassel, or they can hardly wait ’cause it was their FAV place, should take a chill pill and lie down till it opens. Then decide.Until then, it’s just much ado about nothing.”

On Heritage Turkeys:

“We brined a heritage turkey last year. Brining does *not* make up for the decided lack of edible flesh on a heritage turkey. It in no way tastes any “better” than a brined, cage-raised turkey. If you want a heritage turkey, get one 3-5 pounds larger than you normally would if you want leftovers. Which, after all, is the only point in cooking a turkey!If you don’t care for turkey, they won’t help. Eat a cheeseburger instead.”

On the movie Julie & Julia:

“The movie is going to some good business, but it is ultimately a chick or older date flick. It’s a movie. People don’t get fat in movies like this. And fat people only get to play Rene Zelwigger parts after a weight gain. Not this movie. Finally, if the movie was about the life of Julia Child, and NOT interwoven with the present blog/book, then it WOULDN’T be a movie about Julie and Julia and the blog…. DUUUUUHHH?!”

Chef Werner Vogeli, R.I.P

Spirits at El Centro are low—the founder of the school’s chef apprentice program, Chef Werner Voglei, died last Tuesday. The DMN has the full story. Voglei inspired many chefs in Dallas. He is already missed. Services are today  at 2 p.m at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 10110 Shoreview Road in Dallas.

Randy “Rib King” Goss, R.I.P.

According to a loyal Disher, Randy Goss, c0-founder of County Line Barbecue restaurant has been found dead in a car submerged in a creek. Our loyal Disher reports:

I’ve known Randy since I was in elementary school.  He and my sister are the same age, graduated high school together at H.P.  His dad’s business was a big used car lot on Ross Avenue.  People of a certain age no doubt remember the big yellow sign: Goss On Ross, Your Tradin’ Hoss.”  Goss and a couple of other Highland Park boys headed to Austin and UT after high school and soon opened their first barbecue place west of town.  It was a home run from the start….had live music in the early years, too.

More details here. And here. Our thoughts go out to the Goss family. I grew up listening to Randy’s father, Gene Goss, sell cars on TV. (h/t JW)

Remembering Gina Campisi

ginacampisi3-164x300When Gina Campisi decided to open Fedora in the One Arts Plaza, she agreed to be a guest blogger here on SideDish. She wrote several Restaurant 101 posts chronicling her experiences. I’ve pulled a couple of my favorites.

Permit Me To Have A Nervous Breakdown

The Road to Nowhere

Gina Campisi Found Dead in Dallas

ginacampisiheadshot22-237x300A Campisi family friend confirms that Gina Campisi, of the Egyptian Lounge Campisis and owner of Fedora Restaurant in Dallas, was found dead today of an apparent suicide in her East Dallas home. Our thoughts are with the family.