Cyclone Anaya: Another Take

I’m a little late getting to this. I had lunch with Stephen last Friday, a perfect patio day in Dallas if ever there was one, and Cyclone Anaya’s patio was gayer than a Designing Women marathon on Lifetime. The boys were out in force at this new Oak Lawn restaurant. It seemed to be an instant smash and for some good reasons. Nice margaritas with a cool circular interior bar. Mexican food that tasted fresh and handcrafted rather than your typical greasy Tex-Mex. (The enchiladas Anaya were stuffed with juicy chicken chunks, sauteed mushrooms and onions, and gooey cheese. These were some fantastic and—best of all—memorable enchiladas.) And, once again, a great multi-level patio. Sure, this is all based on only one trip. But I’ll be back. Lets just hope that Cyclone Anaya can exorcise the ghosts of past failed restaurants in the same space. (Nuevo Leon, Cayuse, and many more)

Cyclone Anaya: My Take

Our nightlife maven, Kyle Kearbey, had good things to say about Cyclone Anaya’s Mexican Kitchen. So good, that it convinced Todd and I to check it out for lunch today. And what a day. If it’s patio weather, this should be on your list. Not exactly an amazing view (Hall at Oak Lawn), but the people watching proved to be some of the best around town. It’s a beautiful restaurant inside, too. I especially dig how cozy it feels, even with the use of some very expensive materials.

So how’s the food? I’ll let Todd tell you about his dish, but I opted for the Fish Tacos (pictured). Generous portions of well-seasoned fish and a couple bucks worth of avocado make up the fare. What you can’t see is a side of cilantro lime vinaigrette (that looks much too creamy to be called a vinaigrette), that suprisingly didn’t overpower everything else. It’s a solid choice—literally. I half expected the tortilla to fall apart as they often do with that much food. They didn’t, and were surprisingly easy to eat. Kudos on construction.

Also got a frozen sangria margarita (hey, it’s Friday) after repeatedly hearing their margaritas recommend. I wasn’t impressed. A little too sour and not enough flavor. Strong enough, but just not that tasty. Perhaps on the rocks would have been the way to go.

Either way, it’s worth a trip and I’ll be back to try some of the more interesting dishes. Todd’s take is next up.

Dining Horror Stories

A Disher who lives in Southlake says her experience at Mi Chulas Good Mexican was really bad :

The manager/owner needs anger management! He grabbed my daughter’s arm cause she was going to the front door to greet her dad and yelled “there is no running in here”. Then approached our table 2x saying- I here you have a problem with me– never apologizing- my daughter was terrified. They are taught in school that if strangers touch you they can be the “bad man”. With her crying at the table the entire time, he kept attacking us verbally and then came back a 2nd time. We requested him to leave us alone so we could finish up and we would not return to his restaurant and he said “good!” Wow, this spirit of anger will not succeed as a cafe owner- he will fail.

Did Harvey Gough move to Southlake without my knowledge? Anyone else been?

Big D’s Dogs

I’ve been hearing good things about Big D’s for months and just now got around to stopping by. Should have gone sooner; the Thai Chili Dog (pictured) was greatness. Consisted of shredded lettuce, cilantro, green onions, fresh jalapeños, shredded carrots, and thai chile lime sauce. Plus you’ve got the 1/4lb kosher dog, all of which comes on a grilled potato bun. I always enjoyed the Chicago Dog at Wild About Harry’s, but they’ve got nothing on Big D’s.

Don, the owner, will likely be the one serving you up. His Myspace page says he graduated from the California Culinary Academy. Good thing too, Dallas has been deserving dogs like these for a while.

When I go back, I’ll be trying the Greenville Ave Dog (Shiner Chili, Shredded Cheddar, Tomatoes, Green Onions, Jalapenos, Homemade Ranch, and Hickory Smoked Bacon). I hear the Shiner Chili is worth the trip alone.

Mexican Food in Allen

Anybody eaten at La Finca in Allen? Is it worth the drive? Help.

Looking For Fabulous Lasagna? Wine?

Next October, a group of my friends and I are heading to Tuscany for ten days. Besides taking cooking lessons and a culinary tour, we are also hitting several (hundred) wineries. To prepare for our trip, I am organizing a series of get-togethers designed to pre-educate the group with all things Italian. Last night was Tuscany Wine 101 and our “teacher” was Alfonso Cevola, you know, the Italian wine director at Glazer’s who writes a wicked wine blog. Anywhoo, Alfonso showed up with six wines and I showed up with a couple of frozen sausage and meatball lasagnas from Jimmy’s Food Store. People, the wine was great, but the lasagna was even greater. A tin that feeds 6-8 is only $30. Our hefty group of ten barely touched the second one. I also picked up some tasty sesame crackers and several Italian cheeses. There is no better spot in Dallas for Italian food. And I’m including all of the restaurants that call themselves Italian. I’ll list the wines we tasted below. Good stuff. (more…)

Jonesing for Salad Kathleen

Every day the good people at Kathleen’s Art Cafe send a mobile waiter carrying a basket stuffed with hearty lunch options to the D offices. I’m on the second floor, which means that by the time I get down to the first floor kitchen there are several hungry people in front of me perusing through the pork loin sandwiches, chunky Caesar salads, slabs of chocolate cake, and most importantly, the Salad Kathleen. It takes a great deal of self control to watch the last Salad Kathleen leave in the hands of a happy co-worker without tackling the skinny thing and running back to my desk in victory. This salad is a masterpiece. It is loaded with crispy green lettuce, peanuts, green olives, smoked chicken, and scallions. Dressed with a Japanese rice wine vinaigrette, the flavors join together to create a tangy, smoky flavor nirvana. I’m so addicted to this salad and have yet to find another that can assuage my daily lunchtime desire. Have a favorite salad? Comments are open.

Re: Calling Bill Addison

OK, Dishoholics, let’s get busy. I’ve gotten a bunch of e-mails calling Bill Addison a “chicken” for not defending himself yesterday. Here’s the deal—according to a couple of my pals at DMN, Belo has a rule that “prohibits’ staff writers from engaging in making public statements about their policies. So, I can’t fault Freckle Face for not showing his. As many of you have pointed out, FF did outline his guidelines the minute he hit print. But, color me stupid, I’m still confused. That said, I offer the Dallas Morning News a suggestion for how to make the star system more user friendly. It’s simple; it’s my idea. If anybody uses it, they will owe me lots of money. Ready?

Pick three colors and assign a price range to that color. Pink (cost of a meal less than $10), Green ($10-$20), Purple ($20 plus). Or, whatever. Then assign stars according to price/color. That enables one to have a five-star breakfast at Mecca or a five-star piece of pizza pie at Grimaldi’s. It also allows one to have a four-star dinner at, pick one, Sevy’s without having to weigh the Sevy’s experience against the Grimaldi’s. Dig what I’m shooting at ‘cha? How easy would that be? And how pretty if you pick the right colors. Discuss.

Calling Bill Addison. I Need a Ruling Here.

Dude, is three stars the new four stars? I’m having a little problem following your new guidelines for handing them out. I would think that a review with only two “negative” statements would not be a three-star review. Today, reviewer Kim Harwell’s main objection to her experience at Sevy’s, formerly rated as four stars, was:

“My only quibble: the practice of charging an extra 99 cents for the addition of anchovies and extra Parmesan cheese on the Caesar (a charge mirrored for bacon on the iceberg wedge salad). I’d rather pay a slightly higher price upfront than feel nickel-and-dimed at a restaurant of this caliber.”

Hmm. Certainly Kim is aware of the rapidly rising price of food that most area restaurants are absorbing without raising overall prices on their menu. I would consider the extra charge a positive. If the rest of the experience was so good, why “take away” a star? Folks, this is one reason why I dislike the star-rating system. And I feel for Addison who has come in and is trying to revamp the flabby mess that he inherited. Trying to redo it will be his cross to bear for a long time. I invite him to share with us the parameters for determining the quantity of stars for each experience. Grimaldi’s and Sevy’s rate the same? Explique por favor. Gracias.

What is the Worst Meal You Ever Ate?

A friend of mine asked me that question last night and it took me about two seconds to answer. Which, for me, is weird because usually I can’t remember what I said five minutes ago. But my taste memory is alive and not-so-well with memories of malicious meals that I not only ate, I paid good money to “eat”. I think Freckle Face will agree with me (cue the violins): restaurant reviewers eat more bad food than good food. But through the years of spitting food out into my napkin or flushing it down a restaurant toilet, one rock-bottom meal stands out. It occurred in January 1998 at the gone-but-how-could-I-ever-forget-the-day-and-night-after Traci’s in UpChuckTown. The “cuisine” was “Home Cooking Gone Gourmet” gone bad. Ten years later, I can still taste the scorched lobster shepherd’s pie (both the initial and the replacement orders) and a spinach salad doused with syrupy vinaigrette that was covered with cheese, and broiled. Yes, broiled salad. Luckily it only went in once, because it came out so many more times. Your turn.

Review: Salata

Going out to lunch can be a real pain. It just gets in the way of a perfectly good work day. Occasionally I venture out of my cube with a view for something to eat, but usually I just grab leftovers and dine over the comfort of my keyboard. Today I had to go to Fidelity Investments in Preston Center to donate blood money to what is left of my IRA (don’t forget!) and I stopped in to try Salata, a quick and easy salad and wrap bar, not to be confused with these. The concept is simple: you line up and design your own salad or wrap from a seemingly endless buffet of choices. There are lettuce selections, over 20 veggies, fruits, nuts, and cheeses. Meats include chicken (chipotle, pesto, herb-marinated, or any combo), marinated shrimp, crab, and baked salmon. The dressings are fresh; the completed wraps are bigger than Tim Rogers’ ego. If they put one in across the street from this office (hint, hint…there is an empty restaurant space available), I would eat there every day except Friday. The bite-size brownies? Yes, please. And the chipotle ranch dressing? Cleared my sinuses right up.

Eat This Now: Capital Grille

Yesterday I spent the day blogging from the Texas Rangers’ home opener. There was a lot of testosterone in the press box. So in keeping with the air of the day, my buddy and I headed to another high-testosterone feeding ground, Capital Grille, for dinner. The dark dining room did not disappoint. At 7:30, the place was filled to about 80% of its capacity, and 80% of the diners were guys. As usual, the service was stellar: every time you call for a reservation they capture your number in their system and keep a record of your past dining experiences. It can be a little unsettling, but it works on the guys who love being recognized. Anywhoo, my dry-aged sirloin was nice, but the Kona-crusted dry-aged sirloin topped with caramelized shallot butter is one of the best things I have ever put in my mouth. Seriously. Eat one. You will thank me. Next.

Granny-Inspired: Sweet Leaf Tea

Speaking of Green Tea and au naturale drinks, you can’t forget Sweet Leaf Tea. They’re a Texas company that’s been doing the cane sugar, and simple ingredient dance for some time. It’s been sold in Dallas for 10 years, although I discovered them only last year. I highly recommend the Mint & Honey Green Tea. At 110 calories per bottle, it’s got more sugar than I’d like, but it’s also strong—not that it’s a bad thing. I cut mine with ice, and it’s ohsogood. If you’re not a tea fan, they’ve got lemonades, too. Plus, any company that describes their drinks as “granny-inspired” has got to be good.

Reader Review: Yumi To Go

I don’t want any e-mails from food snobs who don’t like it when I post a reader review. Everyone has the right to be a food critic. Here’s a real person’s account of her experience with Yumi To Go:

I ordered from Yummi to Go online yesterday afternoon. I wanted the order to be delivered at 6:00pm to a friend’s house for a girl’s night dinner. It was very easy and I felt so efficient! Well, up until they delivered the items 20 minutes after I ordered it. At 4:20. While I was still at work. Luckily, my friend was at home to get it. I called them to tell them the error. The gentleman who answered the phone took full responsibilty very quickly (no hassles whatsoever) and said, “I am sorry. My guy did not look at the time. What can we do to help?” He offered to resend the orginal order at the correct time, give me a credit for a future order or send something else free of charge. I ordered something else (so we could try more things on the menu) to be delivered at six. Which they did. And it was hot, and fresh, and of course, yummy. A great overall experience, very good food and I will order from them again.

Oh, a happy ending indeed. I’m just warm and fuzzy all over. I didn’t have such luck last night. But you’ll read about that soon enough. I mean almost four hours for dinner.

DRY Soda: Kumquat

Just tried DRY’s Kumquat Soda. 50 calories, 14g of sugar (cane), and only 4 ingredients—all of which you can pronounce. It’s quite nice, and I can see it working well as a tonic substitute for your 4 o’clock fix. Found mine at Central Market Whole Foods on Lemmon Ave. Will have to check out the Rhubarb flavor on my next visit.

Coming Soon: Root Beer Roundup

My Review: Woodlands

Inspired by the chaos created by our loyal Disher who reviewed Woodlands, I headed over a little while ago for lunch. Here is my quick take. (more…)

Reader Review: Woodlands

I haven’t been to the recently opened Woodlands in Preston Forest, operated by Jack Baum, a veteran of the Dallas restaurant scene. Currently Mr. Baum is CEO of Food, Friends, and Company and Woodlands, his latest concept that he refers to as “somewhere between Houston’s and Jasper’s”, is also set to open another shop in Allen in June. A dedicated and disappointed Disher went for dinner the other night and files this report: (more…)

Review: Goff’s in North Dallas

The other day I was kicking around Dallas scouting shopping centers for new or closed restaurants. I turned into that little corner spot at LBJ & Preston where India Palace and Stein’s Bakery, the birthplace of the mini-bun, are located and I bumped into the northern outpost of the Harvey Gough-less Goff’s. Since the self-confessed “old fart” sold his spot on West Lovers to Jim Francis, many customers who loved to hate Harvey started complaining to me about how awful the place had become. I’ve been to the location on Hillcrest, where it moved after they tore down the original–thank the food gods, those ceilings were awful—and I thought the burgers still tasted the same. But the young man behind the counter agreed to melt my cheese, (yes he did Harvey, you old buzzard gut) which is something Harvey wouldn’t have done if Osama bin Laden had a gun to Harvey’s head. And the polite young boy said, “Thank you.” (Don’t choke on your Metamucil, HG.) Anywhoo, I bopped into to Goff’s north and ordered a #9 (salad burger with hickory sauce) and it tasted the same: cold bun, cold pile of unmelted cheddar, cold salad, and a warm, thin patty of meat. Good fries. Great fried pies. A picture of Laura Bush and Jim Francis. However, there was never a “thank you.” Harvey, you can stay in your beautiful house with your beautiful wife and beautiful child. Goff’s is same as it ever was.

Pokka Green Tea w/ Jasmine

Lately, I’ve been trying different cold green teas. It’s healthy (sometimes), and a welcome departure from my normal diet of water, bourbon, or beer. So far I really haven’t found anything worthwhile. That is, until about an hour ago.

Picked up a can of Pokka Green Tea w/ Jasmine at the Whole Foods on Lemmon Ave. It tastes fresh, sweet, and the jasmine is unbelievable. At 72 calories and only 18g of sugar, it isn’t too bad, either. The unsweetened version (another brand I can’t remember that’s also in a can) was a bit too bland, and even a little bitter. This is just about perfect.

Grab one instead of an Orangina. I did.

Mini Review: Fireside Pies (Park Cities location)

I visited the new Fireside Pies in the old Riviera location on Inwood Road last Saturday night. Took a crew of eight. Since FP doesn’t accept reservations, we waited an hour for a table. The white peach sangria provided sweet solace during our wait, and, after several rounds, we came up with an alcohol-fueled opinion long before we tasted the food: The more FP expands the more it loses its charm. The original Henderson Avenue location might be cramped but the patio rocks and the vibe/decor is Sonoma County cool. Likewise, the crowd is a frisky mix of Uptown cheese and East Dallas eco-chic. In other words, great people watching. The new Park Cities FP is cavernous and bland. Tucking the bar in the back doesn’t help. And the crowd is exactly what you would expect: Lacoste-wearing families of four with Hummers in tow. Much like FP’s cream soda float, it’s all quite vanilla. Not that there’s anything wrong with that nor should Park Cities families be denied triple-pepperoni pies with hand-torn basil conveniently located in their hood. It’s just not my slice of pie. Oh, by the way, the pizza is still some of the best in town. At least, there’s that.

Eating And Drinking Holland And Belgium

Ahoy, Dishers. I’m just back from a whirlwind tour of Holland and Belgium. I have tons of food photos but I couldn’t find my camera this morning. So I’ll start my roundup of restaurants with one that I was too intimidated to take pictures in– L’Ecailler du Palais Royal, an upscale French seafood restaurant in Brussels. Oh. My. God. It’s a tiny restaurant in a 16^th-century house in the chichi neighborhood of Sablon where it sits among some of the finest antique shops in the city. What a royal seafood feast. Thankfully by the time I was handed the menu I was over “euro shock”—the appetizers averaged around $42 EACH. Mine was Belgian hop sprouts tossed in butter and crème fraiche and topped with a poached egg. Hop sprouts are thin asparagus-like shoots that are only available about 3 weeks a year. The taste reminded me of salsify. My entree was barbue, a fish from the turbot family, which was covered with a fine layer of grainy mustard and thinly sliced tomatoes. Profiteroles, natch, for dessert. While the food was fab and the wine fabulously French, the service was phenomenal. Probably not so much to our Belgian hosts because they live in a culture where food service is a respected career, not just a pit stop job. I’d almost forgotten what it is like to really be served. And without the expectation of a ginormous tip.

The Mansion Gets A New Sous

I haven’t seen a picture of him, but his name tells me he’s totally cute: Jason Maddy. Anywhoo, he’s Mansion execuchef John Tesar’s new sous chef. (Say that three times.) Maddy, who I hear loves to play the drums and watch the Stars, most recently served as sous chef at the Driskill Hotel in Austin where he worked with David Bull. Hmm. Bull is the brains behind Bolla, the fine dining restaurant in the heart of the newly refurbished Stoneleigh Hotel. I still have not eaten at the Mansion since they completed a multimillion dollar renovation which included face lifts to the Mansion Bar, Mansion Restaurant, Chef’s Room, and Chef’s Table. Bad dining critic, I am. But from talking with Bill “Freckle Face” Addison, I understand it’s a real bobby dazzler. Look out Dallas, we just may become a top dining destination after all.

A Real Neighborhood Restaurant

So I finally went to Kitchen 1924 last weekend, and shame on me for waiting this long. Ironically, I used to live in that neighborhood, but now I reside in Midway Hollow (A Treasure To Keep!). But I digress. What I wanted to mention—and, Sarah, forgive me if you reported this in your revisit a few months back—is that there was a note on the door, explaining that the prices had been lowered to keep the neighbors coming back for dinner. As you know, I’ve been on a bit of a rampage lately, because I think there are too many restaurants in town that don’t warrant their price points. And, interestingly, before I went out that night, a friend of mine (a longtime Lakewood denizen) was lamenting that he thought the prices at Kitchen 1924 were a bit high. Well, Neal, it’s time you go back. For example, a tilapia entree is $13. (Compare that to the $12 quesadillas at Mi Cocina. IJS.) My portion of the bill was just north of $30, including wine and tip. We shared spinach and artichoke dip with crabmeat; flatbread pizza with prosciutto, salami, and pepperoni; a side of smoked gouda grits and another of mac and cheese with peas and bacon (could have done without the peas); and three salads (two wedges and one spicy Caesar). True, it wasn’t the kind of meal to make your trainer proud, but we left pleased as punch—rather than pissed off that we’d spent too much.

Mini-Review: La Cubanita (Breakfast)

Ever since Todd had lunch at La Cubanita, I’ve been trying to make it there for breakfast. Finally happened this weekend, and I’m glad it did. It’s a cool spot, too. A little small, but we didn’t have any trouble being seated. Kept wanting to steal design ideas for our own place…. Read more after the jump. (more…)

Rise: A Preview

Oh. My. God. I just came back from a V-Day lunch at Rise in Inwood Village. Talk about sin on a plate(s). First of all, thanks to Mark Maguire, Hedda Dowd, and chef Cherif Brahmi for introducing a truly unique restaurant concept (souffle bistro) to Dallas. May you bloom and grow faster than my belly. The interior is smashingly fun, the food—lobster Thermidor soufflé, salad nicoise, and apricot soufflé—is rich and delicious, and the wine list is casual and sophisticated. Warning: it’s a mosh pit. Go early, late, or round up seven for a reservation. Report back. (5360 W. Lovers Lane, Suite 220. The old Lovers Egg Roll space. 214-366-9900.) Burp.

Another Day, Another Burger

A reader writes:

Have you tried a burger joint called Tilley’s Grill, located at 7033 Greenville Ave. Tiiley’s has a excellent burger accompanied by a generous portion of fries…build your own burger setup..Awesome starters and other great comfort food on the menu as well. If you ever ate at Joe Willeys then you know the location.

I haven’t. Have you?

Bill Addison Hearts John Tesar

Five stars to the Mansion’s chef John Tesar? DMN critic, Bill “Freckle Face” Addison, thinks so. And you know what? He’s right on. As “fine dining” continues to disappear around here, it’s nice to see Tesar keeping it alive. We must get out of our jeans from time to time, eh?

BLT Steak: Valet Update

A loyal Disher with a nose for wine and investigative reporting disputes the Disher who claimed  the police were ticketing cars at BLT Steak.

We went to BLT last night and I asked the valet guy about the ticket story.  He absolutely swore that it never happened and that no tickets were ever written.  Food was good and service exceptional.  The prices are rather impressive however…they match those of Pappas and Craft which I find remarkably high.  With a steak at $35-40 plus a couple of $10 sides the bill adds up quickly.  Am I the only one noticing that main courses very often no longer come with sides and the actual price of a main course is significantly more?  I was talking with one local chef whose prices are high but as he points out, all of his main courses come with a vegetable or some sort of side.

A la carte is so New York.

Burger Review: The Stodg at The Porch

The charm of The Porch has alluded me for some time now. Yes, it buzzes with energy and the vintage t-shirt/flip flop wearing crowd is a nice distraction. And, yes, the food is comfy and sometimes quite good. (Chili, onion rings, fish and chips, and the ubiquitous sliders — tasty brisket — are some of my faves.) But the wait is often too long (1 1/2 hours for sliders?!?), the noise level near deafening, and it seems an awful lot of hubbub for good bar and grill food. But then I had the Stodg burger–quite possibly the best burger in Dallas–and everything changed. (more…)

BLT Steak: Valet Parking

Yikes, a SideDisher reports that police were handing out parking tickets to cars parked along the valet stretch. How can they do that when that driveway isn’t even a real street? IJS. Talk about insult to injury. OK, let’s talk about that.

A Shout Out to Patrizio

“Value” might be a dirty word in Highland Park Village, but I had dinner at Patrizio last night, and I was pleasantly surprised when the tab came. For two glasses of wine, one appetizer, one salad (split, plenty for two), two entrées, and one dessert, the bill was $72 before tip—$36 per person. And we had enough left over for a doggie bag. Anywhere else that meal would have been twice as much, thanks to the rash of restaurants that have opened up where it seems you can’t get an entrée for less than $20. For example, I do love the Porch, but the other night I paid about that much for my dinner—not to mention we had to wait an hour and half to get a table, which meant the whole “meal” lasted three hours—and all I had to eat was a buttermilk fried chicken salad and some wine. (Good, but not great.) And that doesn’t count the drinks and spinach-artichoke dip we had at the bar while we waited. Now, I don’t mind paying for good food, but how many times have you left wondering why a totally average meal cost so dang much? (I felt this way at Nove Italiano not too long ago. And Go Fish. And Le Rendezvous. ) Talk amongst yourselves.

The Woodlands: A Disher Reviews

This just in from a new Disher in town:

I just dined at Woodlands at Preston and Forest.  Went out on a limb – and was expecting the worst, but experienced the best.  Valet – nice touch, considering the location (let’s be honest…) The hostess could have given a warmer reception, there was absolutely zero crowd – but when you get down to it, those details really shouldn’t matter.  The FOOD was impeccable.  Truly.  Since this blog is about FOOD, and we all know how many restaurants in Dallas have been built on reputation (and not of actual delivery) so I wanted to write in and let you know how wonderful my experience was at this particular location. I would hate to see a spot with so much potential fail just because of the address.  I’ll be the first to admit I’m a street snob when it comes to restaurants, but this place – though out of the way – was delicious and charming.  From start to finish, it was one of the top meals I’ve had in months of dining in Dallas/Chicago/NYC. Maybe it’s because I’m of the “been there, done that crowd”, but this restaurant was so refreshing.  I hope it keeps up the quality and can build the crowd it needs (deserves!).

 Anybody else?

Mini-Review(s): Del’s Charcoal Burgers & Twisted Root Burger Co.

I don’t eat a lot of burgers, so when I do, it’s gotta be goood. This Friday, I doubled up, and got my fill: Del’s Charcoal Burgers in Richardson for lunch (where the Mayor was also dining), and Twisted Root Burger Co. in Deep Ellum for dinner. Full report after the jump.

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Fine Dining By Phone? A Review.

My plans to dine at Charlie Palmer on Wednesday night were canceled at the last minute. That’s like a snow day (night) for me—an unexpected night off at home and a DVR brimming with goodies. I pondered—should I call for Chinese or Italian, what I call my “delivery rut.” Hmm, where was that ambitious menu I picked up a few months ago from that wacky looking place on Inwood that said they delivered? Eventually I found it—Picasso’s Pizza and Grill—and perused the 10-page, 6X8-inch pamphlet of possibilities: 16 apps, 13 salads, 20 pasta dishes, 4 different pizza crusts with endless combinations, fresh fish, baby back ribs, burgers, sandwiches, kid stuff, and desserts. Crazy big. Skeptical, I picked up the phone and dialed the number. It was picked up immediately by Anthony. I asked him if they delivered everything on the menu and he said yes. Then he said, “I see on the caller ID that your name is Nancy. Do you mind if I call you Nancy?” Nice touch. (Note to self: get that changed.) My friend and I decided to give them a real test and began the ordering process. When I ordered a calzone, Anthony said, “That isn’t really the best choice from our pizza selection.” He went on to sell me a Masterpiece Pizza (pepperoni, sausage, beef, shrooms, and vegetables with a calzone crust. My meat-‘n-taters man ordered an 8-ounce tenderloin (cooked medium) with a side of risotto with roasted red bell pepper. In addition, he said, “Let’s see how they deliver a chocolate shake that isn’t melted.” Meanwhile Anthony and I were bonding. I asked him how he liked his job. He said, “I love it. I get the chance to talk to so many nice people and help them decide what they want for dinner.” I could hear other phone lines ringing in the background, but Anthony didn’t miss a beat as he wrapped up our order. “Thank you, Nancy, for calling, I really appreciate talking to people like you on the phone, you make my job so easy. Your order will be delivered in 35 minutes.” (more…)

Bill Addison Eats Crow With Lobster And Potato Chiboust With Osetra Caviar and Green Apple Sorbet

Just about a year ago, the DMN debuted their new dining critic, Bill “Freckle Face” Addison. Eager to stir the pot, Addison started his rounds by taking on the DMN’s then current 5-Star listings. His first review was of Aurora, one the most upscale dining destinations in town. Although he liked the place, he didn’t love it; he took the listing down to a 4-Star. Owner Avner Samuel went bonkers. He wrote letters, he called everyone he knew, he called the DMN brass. Bill Addison was on the map. Chefs all over town were shaking in their clogs. Today, Addison has a new take on Avner and Aurora has it’s fifth star back. Way to go Billy Boy, you can fire those bodyguards now.

Mobil Announces New Star Ratings

Mobil Travel Guide unveiled its list of four-and-five star hotels, restaurants, and spas. Here are the area winners:

Mobil Five-Star Lodging: Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek, Dallas
Mobil Four-Star Lodgings: Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas, Irving
Mobil Four-Star Restaurants: Abacus, The French Room, Nana, Stephan Pyles
Mobil Four-Star Spas: The Spa and Salon at Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas, Irving

Hmm.

Best Neighborhood Restaurants, Online Edition

Ever since D’s February cover story—Best Neighborhood Restaurants—hit the stands, readers have been “hitting” me with places I left out. First of all, let me say that it is impossible to get them all in and I do try and rotate restaurants around. But this reader makes a good point for a long-time Plano favorite. Hear him roar:

I’m talking about Vincent’s Seafood. It is in Plano off Park and Preston behind TGI Friday’s. I was a little disappointed to see that it was not mentioned in the “Best Neighborhood Restaurants” issue. Mainly because Vincent’s clientele is primarily regulars that have been going there for as long as 40 years. It has been run by the same owner (Angelo Stergios) for 40 years as well. You may remember another one of his Vincent’s Seafood restaurants off Northwest Highway by Bachman Lake that was immensely popular just over a decade ago. Anyways, I would like to give it an honorable mention as I have been a patron of Vincent’s for quite sometime and I think quite a few people thought it was gone completely with the closing down of the Bachman store.

OK, Honorable Mention. But Vincent’s is listed in D Magazine’s regular listings under Seafood. Dishers, read the magazine. If you don’t see your favorite neighborhood spot, list it here. Get to work.

More Great Grits for You

Agreed, Stephen. Lets make grits a new culinary trend. Another place that does them well is Hattie’s. The low-country shrimp and goat cheese grits with Tabasco-bacon pan gravy is about as good as it gets.

Smoked Gouda Grits: Kitchen 1924

I’ve never cared for grits. Perhaps it’s because I’ve been served one too many bland bowls of mush with a stick of butter on top. No thanks, I’ll pass. That is, until last night.

Kitchen 1924 has Smoked Gouda Grits as a seasonal side dish, and they’re good. Real good. It’s a welcome replacement for the mac & cheese you’ll find just about everywhere else. Served smoking hot, they’ve got a great texture and just enough cheese. A little brown on top for that satisfying crunchy-chewy goodness, and each “grit” was cooked just enough. No mush, and not too chewy. More please.

I could go on about the rest of the meal (the awesome scallops, the great house made desserts), but go find out for yourself. Kitchen 1924 was also named one of the Best Neighborhood Restaurants in the new issue of D.

Grimaldi’s Anyone?

A pizza-lovin’ disher sends this report:

Went there [Grimaldi’s] for lunch today. And I really, really wanted to like it. Wanted to love it. But. The crust was burned an egregious, blistered shade of black throughout the visible edges, and elsewhere it had the consistency of a thrice-folded paper towel soaked in Mazola. The to-go box nearly disintegrated from its burden of grease. The toppings were high-quality, but dispensed with great parsimony; black olives failed to grace each piece. What’s more, the place is a bit expensive, relatively (though we all expected that), and the service was painfully slow, even though the joint was nearly deserted by all but the black-T-shirted staff, who themselves feasted quite contentedly in little gaggles while I waited more than 30 minutes for a $13 personal-size pizza (in fairness, it was LP-sized). I initially intended to eat in, but had to change it to “to go,” lest I run afoul of the Man.So, Louie’s need not fear.

Quite an enjoyable little review there. Anyone else been?

Dishers, Help This Lost Soul

A dude, who obviously is too lazy to pick up a copy of D Magazine asks:

My wife and I will be celebrating our 6th anniversary this Saturday and we are looking for a nice place to eat. We ate at the Restaurant Lola last year, and it was very nice. I am a bit of a plain Southern boy who likes meat and potatoes kind of food, so that narrows the choices considerably.Other restaurant ideas?

Well, the Mansion is nice and new. Bijoux is swell. Any other anniversary types out there who can shed some light on this poor man’s problem?

The Mansion Is Turbot Charged

Yesterday I lunched at the Mansion with fifty of my best friends . It was the first time I’d seen the new modernized dining room and I have to admit I think it’s really pretty. But the food was amazing: pan-sautéed turbot served with big fat juicy fava beans and gnocchi all simmering in a delicate mustard reduction. If you are looking for a fine dining experience, this old gal is still the spot.

Very Mini Review: Oak Cliff Pizza

As promised, I ordered a pie from the new North Oak Cliff pizza spot last night and settled in for a night of American Idol. How new? They just opened yesterday. And, as expected, the new colt had some wobbly legs: many of the “special” ingredients (meatballs, fresh basil, jalapenos, etc.) were MIA and the pizza took an hour to arrive. But what did show up at my doorstep was a pretty nice pie. I ordered the Mulberry specialty pizza. The chewy yet crisp crust was loaded with Canadian bacon, pepperoni, sausage, hamburger, and Mozzarella. That much meat can make a pizza greasy, but this one held up well. The sauce, however, stole the spotlight. Zesty and slightly sweet, the pie was slathered with the stuff. If you like a saucy pizza, Oak Cliff Pizza is near Nirvana. I look forward to trying OC Pizza’s grinder sandwiches and pasta offerings. But based on one pizza, I’m a pretty happy (and full) cliff dweller so far.

Mini Review: La Cubanita

I went for lunch today, Nancy. Alberto Lombardi looks like he has another hit on his hands. Dressed in Caribbean blues and sea greens, the tiny dining room only seats 47 and the placed was packed. (And it’s only La Cubanita’s second day open.) We sat on the patio under heaters that didn’t work, but a round of cortaditos (Cuban sweetened espresso with steamed milk) kept us moderately warm. Hits included vegetarian empanadas stuffed with creamy spinach, mushrooms, and cojita cheese, Cuban cigars (crispy pork flautas), a fried catfish sandwich, and the best yucca fries I’ve had in Dallas. (Sorry, La Duni.) The yucca was moist and airy and the breading crisp and delicate. Seriously, I could have eaten an entire meal of those things. The only miss was a side of twice-cooked crispy green plantains. They were a little tough—once cooked would have been enough. Lombardi was there, working the crowd and looking quite the dandy. With his latest offering, I’m declaring the dapper Don the best restaurateur in Dallas. (Sorry, Tristan.) Any dissenting votes?

Café + R + D x Purple Kool Aid= Excellent Sevice

Last week after a post-work shopping expedition to Orvis in Preston Center, I popped into Café R+D, for a little R&R. Like its big brother restaurant, Houston’s, across the parking lot,the dining room was mobbed. The open kitchen was pumping out plates of huge salads, sandwiches, and entrees. The cocktail crowd surrounding the U-shaped bar was three deep. The food was fine but what blew me away was the service: despite the crowd, the service flowed effortlessly from beginning to end. I noted a couple of guys in suits roaming the room and flagged one over. Turns out he is the assistant GM who came from the Newport Beach location. “How could you leave Southern California for Dallas?” I asked him. “I would move anywhere in the world to work for this company[Hillstone Restaurants],” was his reply. “Why?” I asked. “It’s the way the treat you in this company, you are a human, not a number,” he said smiling as he checked the salt and pepper shaker levels. Then he gave us his card and asked us to come back and see him. Yes, Jacob League, service manager, I think I will. It’s good to be queen. If only for one night.

Best Buns: Garden Bakery

If you’ve never been to a Chinese bakery, put it on your list. I’ve been going to the Garden Bakery in Richardson for about eight years, and always leave the place a little happier. Stopping by on a Saturday morning, or after work, there’s just a comfort food aspect to it. These aren’t steamed buns (or dumplings, get those up the street at Jeng Chi), but rather baked bread with different types of fillings. It’s a sweeter type of bread, each in it’s own plastic bag. The first one I ever tried was the red bean bun, and it’s still my favorite. They’ve also got mung bean, curry beef, bbq pork, and various creams/custards. Everything’s around a $1, and it’s cash only. On your way out, stop next door at Boba Latte for some bubble tea. Or even better, eat at First Chinese BBQ (also next door and cash only) and head to the bakery for dessert.

Mini-Review: Bukhara Grille in Richardson

Good timing, I had my first trip to Bukhara Grille on Friday. After living in Richardson for nearly 3 years, I was surprised I didn’t know about this place earlier. It’s semi-new, but I didn’t even know the shopping center it belongs to existed. It’s not exactly hard to find (Campbell and Greenville Ave), just not in an area I visit a lot. (Also discovered there’s a Benny’s Bagels next door, which on a visit to the following morning, wasn’t nearly as crowded as all the other bagel shops in Richardson.)

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New York City Food Report

I’m (barely) back from a whirlwind tour of New York City where I introduced my five (perfect) nieces to the culture and food of the Big Apple. We hit two of my long-time favorite pizza haunts (Famous Original Ray’s & Rosario’s), a touristy, yet solid Italian (Carmine’s), a so-so, but historic deli (Katz’s), and my secret best-in-NYC Chinese restaurant, (East Ocean). In between experiencing their first bite of spicy soft shell crab (picture) and potato knishes, we hit plenty of post-Christmas clothing sales. Funny, I don’t remember making the jump from Super Target to Bergdorf’s before I could drive. More later.

Let Me Hear You

Anyone been to BLT? Curious. Very curious. I’m hitting the NYC location tomorrow night.

My Lunch

Today I met a friend for lunch at The Fish in the West Village (next to Cork wine bar, just down from the newly opened Grimaldi’s. Has anyone been there yet? I’m dying to go. They’re not open for lunch, FYI). Anyway, I’ve only heard good things about this new place…but I thought it was pretty average. First of all, my friend and I were the only two people there the entire time (noon to one). This always makes me feel self-conscious. I drank about 17 glasses of iced tea because we were getting so much attention from the server. Secondly, I ordered yellowtail nigiri, and the fish definitely wasn’t that fresh. It wasn’t spoiled, but there was an unwelcome fishy aftertaste that I’ve never experienced before, and the texture was grainy. The salmon sashimi I ordered was beautifully presented on a bed of crushed ice, but the salmon still had pieces of the skin left on it. I’ve seen this before, and I always wonder if this happens as a result of less-than-perfect knife skills, a dull knife, or a combination of the two? Maybe SideDishers can help here. The miso soup and edamame were both fine (tough to mess up either) and the atmosphere seems like it would work at night (tall red banquettes, black leather booths, lots of outdoor seating). Maybe it’s just not a lunch place. Good service though.

On a sidenote: The bathrooms are so neat. The ladies room had a huge red settee in it, chandeliers that hang over the sinks, and elegant automatic faucets (who would’ve thought) that you don’t have to wave your hand in front of like a crazy person to get to turn on. Does anyone else have Fish experiences to share?