UPDATE: According to the restaurant’s Facebook page: Thank you for all your thoughts and prayers. ♥ The fire was in the adjacent building and luckily no one was hurt. Unfortunately, they turned the gas off so we will be closed for a few days. We will keep you updated.

UPDATE: Monica is on her way to Houston. I got lucky when she answered her cell phone. “This [move] has been a real struggle for me,””Greene said. I’ve always been committed to urban development. I believe in Dallas but unfortunately the area [Deep Ellum] has taken a long time to develop. It’s time for me to expand and open my doors to a larger audience.”

I say, you go girl. It’s a great move. She has been in, what I would call, an abusive relationship with Deep Ellum for a long time. It’s time she made a fresh start. That girl has some balls. Oh, wait. Nevermind.

May 18, 2012

Dear Dallas,

Years ago, I read in “Popular Science” that it takes seven years for a person’s cells to replenish. Maybe this is true for humans, but it has taken twenty years at Monica’s Aca y Alla for that cycle to occur.  Monica’s Aca y Alla, with some other creative and wonderful entrepreneurs, helped put Deep Ellum on the map.  But today Deep Ellum is paying the price of Dallas growth within the Downtown area, Bishop Arts District, Uptown and other business districts.  Deep Ellum is going through its own revitalization; old buildings are being redone, DART stations are now open and someday there will be a new world in Deep Ellum. I hope that new world is a good. I expect to continue to be a part of Deep Ellum through my support of whatever venture my ex-partners decide to re-open in the Aca y Alla space.

Indeed, Monica’s Aca y Alla is evolving and changing to Monica’s and the ME Lounge and we will be moving to new digs.  We look forward to becoming a new fixture for the Cedar Springs and Oak Lawn area. We are excited to begin a new partnership with the Crosland Group and the Axiom Group at the beautiful ilume ®  building.  Hector Hernandez will be leading the charge as the Chef for this new concept. Together, we have a vision that will continue to create reasons for guests to eat our unique – yet traditional – style of food, enjoy new menu recipes that will include some of the real Mexican-style of food that was destined for Tajin.

Reality has shown me that with the intense competition in the Mexican food segment, the challenge of finding new ways to attract (and to keep) customers grows. Yes, the new Monica’s together with ME lounge will be fast paced, inventive, exciting, and it will epitomize a new style of Mexican food that I prefer to not call Tex-Mex, but “Nueva Cocina.”

I work, I play, I live and I will always love Deep Ellum. Monica’s had a very successful twenty years of restaurant operation in this historic district.  I am grateful, and would like to thank all Dallasites for their kind and generous support over the years.  We hope you will join us over the next few weeks at Monica’s Aca y Alla to say your good-bye’s and share with us your favorite stories from the past 20 years.  Then, I look forward to sharing with you my vision of the future at Monica’s in the ilume ®.  Until then…

Respectfully,
Monica Greene

UPDATE: Little Miss Snitch sez she thinks it will be operated by Mr. Ormsby. Open in late July.

Today comes word: Restaurant America is putting a gastro sports pub in the Design District. It will be called Central Standard. Note to RA: you should have called the restaurant in Mockingbird Station Central Standard, IJS. No matter what they call it, the space is located in the ground floor of 1400 Hi Line, a 23-story, 314-unit multifamily project that is expected to open this summer and be completed in early 2013. Central Standard is expected to open in Fall 2012.

The press release says nothing about the food. Which begs the question: what is a gastro sport? Followed by:  what is gastro sports food? Balls? Wings? Ducks? Oh the possibilities are endless.

The Avner Samuel; The Bailey. En fuego.

Whirling dervish chef Avner Samuel and his sidekick chef Jon Stevens are ready to open Snack, their “street-food-inspired-low price-points-small-plates-daily-chalkboard-special restaurant on Henderson in the space formerly known as Horne & Dekker. (Whew!) There will be three bar areas: one with cocktails, wine and beer; the second is a raw bar, but also includes a charcuterie element and hot small plates; the third, features a large wood-burning oven for made-to-order flatbreads and distinct hot dishes. (Whew!) Listen up:

From the age-old market-squares and bazaars to today’s street food vendors, SNACK is the creation of a street-to-table inspired menu. The menu includes dinner items such as short rib tacos with pineapple habanero and cilantro crema ($8), pork shumai dumplings ($9), chicken shawarmas with cucumber tahini and pickled onion ($8), and smoked oysters escabeche served with wood oven toasted bread ($7).  The brunch menu features items from a pan-fried egg sandwich with Serrano ham and avocado ($13), to a charcuterie flatbread with pan-fried egg, arugula and herbs ($14); and “street tacos” a la carte with a small assortment of sweeter entrees, like coconut griddle cakes ($11), to choose from.

Bizarre is right! Let’s see, Samuel-Stevens now oversee two locations of Nosh Euro Bistro, Snack, the transition of Bailey’s Prime Plus from steak joint to a chef-driven kitchen, and the addition of the lavish Aurora Room to BPP.  My guess is Samuel and Stevens already have their paws on the menu at The Chesterfield. What? You hear there will be more Nosh Euro Bistros if this relationship lasts? Oh, glorious Dallas dining. Are you coming back to life or going crazy?

UPDATE: Snack will have it’s own valet parking.

Are you ready for some hot dogs?

Yesterday, Merritt Martin of Eater Dallas, linked (ha!) to a story reporting Dallas-based Zaccanelli Food Group’s acquisition of the 133 year-old Hofmann Sausage Company in Syracuse, New York. She writes:

“Wait, what? Dallas-based Zaccanelli Food Group acquired Syracuse’s Hofmann Sausage Company in a multimillion dollar deal that means sausage expansion (well beyond Hot Haus rests, even into Texas groceries, gasp!) and, linking (ha) seemingly random investors the likes of Oneida Indian Nation, former Dallas Cowboys quarterback Roger Staubach and others.”

The “others” Martin omits are significant players that are anything but randomly linked. Like the “Zaccanelli” behind the group:  Frank Zaccanelli, a native of Syracuse, is the former team president of the Dallas Mavericks. He was the minority owner to Ross Perot Jr.’s majority. Together, they sold the team to our (foodie) hero, Mark Cuban. Before that, Zaccanelli was a big wig at Perot Jr.’s company and they did some big deals like Alliance Airport and large real estate developments all over the state. (Huge overstatement in the interest of time.) Zaccanelli Food Group received majority funding from the powerful central-New York based Oneida Indian Nation Enterprises, a group dedicated to “re-investing in Central New York.” Other investors include former Syracuse Police Chief and two-time Syracuse University All-American basketball player Dennis DuVal, Syracuse University Head Basketball Coach Jim Boeheim, Dallas Cowboys quarterback and businessman Roger Staubach, and several high-profile restaurateurs and sports figures.

The until-now family-owned and operated Hofmann Sausage Company is a well-respected name in the restaurant business. They make some fine sausages and hot dogs. Call me crazy, but I swear I ate a Hofmann dog at Fuddrucker’s a century ago. Oh, that brings me to another “other” in this multi-million-dollar-dog deal: Phil Romano, the creator of Fuddruckers®, World’s Greatest Hamburgers®. Secret fact: Romano ALSO grew up in Syracuse eating Hofmann dogs. He loves them so much he sells them at Eatzi’s! Now he’s going to show the world just how much he hearts Hofmann dogs. Romano is in charge of creating a national chain of Hofmann’s World’s Greatest Hot Dogs restaurants. (I’m sure the ® is still at the attorney’s office.)  I, for one, can’t wait. Hot dogs are the new hamburger.

Update: Hofmann products will be available in 64 Texas Albertson’s stores, including those in DFW, this weekend. That was fast.

Tippy Thai is on the west side of Goff’s. It already has furniture inside and looks closer to opening. Mangiamo is in the old Opa! space. The space is larger and they haven’t started finish out. Neither had liquor license applications posted.

BAILEY’S PRIME PLUS SHOWCASES NEW MENU ITEMS FROM

LOCAL CELEBRITY CHEFS AVNER SAMUEL AND JON STEVENS

New Menu Launches at Park Lane Location on May 10th

DALLAS, TX (May 3, 2012) – Bailey’s Prime Plus is proud to announce that the new menu, created by Avner Samuel and Jon Stevens, will launch on May 10th at The Shops at Park Lane location.  Guests will be able to experience a new chef-driven menu that also features signature prime steaks.  Sample menu items include:

Appetizers

Beef Carpaccio shaved pecorino, arugula & dijon-creme fraiche

Jonah Crab & Artichoke Fritters caper & pine nut aioli

Maine Lobster “Parfait” crushed avocado, tomato confit & caviar vinaigrette

Grilled Lamb Merguez Sausage charmoula, tomato confit & black olives

Salads

Roasted Red & Yellow Beets fennel, oranges, candied pecans, goat cheese & arugula

Baby Iceberg Wedges creamy blue, red grape tomatoes, croutons & red onion

Heirloom Tomatoes & Bococinno basil oil & balsamic reduction

Entrees

Roasted Alaskan Halibut cauliflower puree, spring vegetables & mandarin sauce

Herb Roasted Free Range Chicken creamy polenta, “Panzanella” salad & sherry gastrique

Bailey’s Half Pound Wagyu Burger two cheddars, full set & fries

Bailey’s Prime Cuts

Bailey’s features prime steaks and chops including a 6 and 10 oz. Beef Tenderloin, 18 oz. Kansas City Strip and 22 oz. Bone In Ribeye.

Jump if you need more to make you happy.

SEASONS 52 TO OPEN AT NORTHPARK CENTER DALLAS

DALLAS, TX (May 1, 2012) – Seasons 52, the highly-acclaimed fresh grill and wine bar restaurant, has selected NorthPark Center for its first location in Dallas.  The new Seasons 52 restaurant at NorthPark Center is expected to open this fall and will bring approximately 100 new jobs to the Dallas area.

“NorthPark Center is renowned throughout the country and is an ideal setting for Seasons 52,” said Stephen Judge, President of Seasons 52. “It is a signature shopping destination which attracts millions of Texans and visitors to the city.  The energy from the owners and other tenants make it a perfect location for us. We are very excited to introduce Seasons 52 to the Dallas area.”

Seasons 52 is known for its seasonally inspired menu and fresh approach to dining – notable menu selections include: Steak and Cremini Mushroom Flatbread, Cedar Plank Salmon, Caramelized Sea Scallops and Maui Tuna Crunch Salad.  Menus change four times a year with weekly specials that truly capture the flavors of the season.  Nothing on the menu is more than 475 calories, from its signature flatbreads and appetizers, to all entrees and its popular mini indulgence desserts.

In addition, the award-winning wine list created by Master Sommelier George Miliotes features a diverse international selection of 100 wines, including over 52 choices offered by the glass, as well as organic wines and an ever-changing list of “Drink Them Before They’re Famous.”

“Seasons 52 is a wonderful addition to NorthPark Center as we continue establishing the highest standard in the United States for innovative retail and progressive restaurant offerings. Seasons 52 represents the important trend towards living a healthy and balanced lifestyle, which is something we applaud,” said Nancy A. Nasher, who owns, manages, operates and leases NorthPark Center along with her husband, David J. Haemisegger.

The Seasons 52 at NorthPark Center will be located between Neiman Marcus and Dillard’s, with entrances from both inside the mall and street side, and will offer complimentary valet parking.

Seasons 52 at NorthPark Center will feature a warm, welcoming ambiance with rich mahogany accents and a custom built wine cellar with seating in the casually sophisticated dining room, in the piano bar featuring live music nightly and on the patio.  Additionally, the restaurant will offer three private dining rooms for larger groups and events.  Seasons 52 provides the perfect setting for business lunches, romantic dinners, socializing with friends and any private group celebration or corporate event.

Gordo’s UPDATE: According to an email from George Bakhshmandi loyal customers:  “Our move to the wrong side of Preston Center at the wrong time of the economy was not a wise choice. Therefore, Gordo’s was victimized by the 2008 economic disaster.” He also hints they will be back.

Graham Dodd's New Spring Menu Moves Central 214 To The Top Of The Pack

It’s spring, which means that it is time for seasonal restaurants to change their menus. The latest to hold a media introduction is Central 214 at The Hotel Palomar at Central and Mockingbird in Dallas. The takeaway from the event is that chef Graham Dodds is showing why he is one of the best chefs in Dallas.

Fava Bean and Chicken Liver Toasts with Balsamic Olives

We started with an amuse of bruschetta. Some were slathered with fava bean paste made with a little mint and lemon juice and accented with truffle oil. The others had a house made chicken liver paste daintily topped with borage flowers. Accompanying these starters was a bowl of four types of olives that had been marinated in balsamic, olive oil and rosemary (from the chef’s own garden, nonetheless) for two full weeks before being warmed for service.

A light salad of red beets, candy apple onions, radish seeds, coriander berries and house made ricotta followed. It would be the perfect lunch or start to the evening meal proper. So often when I eat out, the starting salad seems to signal “expect less to come”, so minimal is it. This one is the opposite: a talisman of plenty to come – unusual ingredients, creative combinations, and careful execution.

Another salad, but at the opposite scale of complexity, was a last-minute addition. Dodds was at Tom Spicer’s earlier in the day and found some irresistible arugula. He had to buy it. For us he assembled it tossed with just parmesan, olive oil, Meyer lemon, salt and pepper. Summary: an exercise in studied simplicity that put the characteristic bitterness of arugula front and center.

Beet Salad

Fancy egg and bacon? Dodds has the best expression of it in town. First, start with a fried local goose egg. The yolk is a full 6 centimeters across (I know, I was with someone who measures round things in centimeters all day). Add some house made mocetta (made from goat supplied by Windy Hill Organics in Comanche, TX) cured for 60 days and then hung for an additional 60. Add Tassione Farms raw radishes for contrast, and you have the first of two dishes we tasted that night that entered into my Hall of Fame for Dallas culinary classics. The picture at the top does some justice to its visual effect, showing off the bands of color in the mocetta that make the slices resemble a bed of flags for the egg to rest on.

Dodds is a corn lover. So a concasse he calls just Elotes but assembled from corn, choritzo (from Salumeria Rossi on Manhatten’s upper west side) and mirepoix should not have been a surprise. He reduces this mixture with chicken stock, then blends it with chèvre, salt, pepper and minced jalapeño and tops it with espellette pepper. I expect this marvelous side dish will be available seasonally.

Grilled Octopus with Marcona Almonds, Watercress, and ‘Tuscan Salsa Verde’

I am delighted to report another octopus sighting following John Tesar’s successful rendition of it at his underground dinner three weeks ago. O2, as I’ll term it, came grilled with marcona almonds, watercress, and ‘tuscan salsa verde’. The adjective ‘tuscan’ is really there just to avoid confusion with tomatillo salsa. This salsa is made with parsley, basil, cilantro, mustard, capers and white anchovies (maybe he should have called it tapenade vert?). I didn’t ask, but I assume the octopus had been boiled first as it was succulent and easy to chew – the texture a mite firmer than pasta. Apparently, good octopus is hard to source in Dallas so Dodds has an unusual sourcing arrangement with a certain sushi restaurant. It involves him going to the kitchen door ‘cash in hand’.

On to meats and what is disingenuously named honey-thyme glazed porchetta, squash blossom fritters and sugo comes in as simply one of the best pork dishes that I have ever tasted. Just pick up the squash blossom fritter on top (it is not greasy) and savor the sweetness of the batter and the mild bitterness in the blossom juxtaposed against the creaminess of goat cheese. Then return to the plate and cut the ring of pork belly wrapped around pork shoulder with your fork and slop some sauce on top. Place it in your mouth and wonder at how complex a sauce can be (and how long it can embrace the tongue). That is because this particular sauce is cooked for twenty hours (that’s longer than the longest non-stop airline flight in the world)! The pork jowl, tomatoes, garlic and basil gently stew until the individual flavors are totally resolved. I state the steps involved in the making of this food,

Honey-Thyme Glazed Porchetta, Squash Blossom Fritters and Sugo

even at the risk of belaboring it, because although most farm-to-table restaurants have casual décor and a come-as-you-are philosophy the best ones have not relaxed in any way traditional rigor in the preparation and nothing just gets slopped on the plate. Dodds, and other examples like Jeff Harris (at Bolsa) and David Trubenbach (at Asador) are making preparations just as involved as those chefs with a more classical methodology such as Bruno Davaillon (at The Mansion) and Andre Natera (at The Pyramid).

Striped Bass Bourride with Fennel, Leeks and Saffron

Back to fish and a striped bass bourride with fennel, leeks and saffron. This drew a lot of its flavor from the mussels in the stew.

As though we would die without it, not one, but three desserts. Panne cotta with rhubarb, polenta and black cherry cobbler. All noteworthy.

Some favorites remain from the menu sampled by His Toddness. Dodds cannot replace the scotch egg or “popcorn” sweetbreads due to customer acclaim. Likewise, the best fries in Dallas remain on the bar menu.

Right now, Hotel Palomar has got one leg of the four needed to make Central 214 a great restaurant, and the most important one at that – a dedicated, talented chef. The other three are scheduled to be completed later this year. First, a permanent front of house manager. Second, a redecoration of the room: It is not bad now – it just has the intimacy of an airline terminal. The final leg is the wine situation. The list appears to derive straight from Kimpton central sourcing. It is overwhelmingly second-tier California labels. And despite the farm-to-table philosophy there are no table wines from Texas (despite the availability of good Viognier and Tempranillo at competitive prices). And there is next to nothing from Europe. There is also no sommelier, a problem that showed up on our visit when the bar served not one but different several wines too warm.

I hear they also plan to change the name. That sounds, to me, like a bad idea. Already Nana has been renamed with an unpronounceable symbol from a quantum physics equation. We don’t need people who have found Central 214 to have to recalibrate as well.

Whatever they decide to do, Central 214 has some of the best food in the city right now. Dodds blew away two California wine makers I went with for lunch last month. Give him a chance to blow you away as well.