Had lunch there today and was told by our waitress that they are closing on Sunday.

Is the Dallas revolution in Mexican cuisine flatlining?

The Reyeses; their creamy flan de naranja. (photography by Kevin Marple)

Raul Reyes opened his first restaurant in 2008, a tiny place in Oak Cliff serving the colorful cuisine of his birthplace, the Veracruz region of Mexico. La Palapa Veracruzana was run by his family, wife Olga working as his co-chef, daughter Jaretzy taking managerial duties, and son Raul Jr. waiting tables. The seafood-centric menu snagged the palates of serious food lovers and critics in Dallas, but the kudos posted on food blogs and the glowing reviews couldn’t keep it alive. It closed after only a year.

“We never pulled an alcohol license,” Reyes says by way of explanation. “I couldn’t. My daughter was manager and she was only 17.”

Dejected, Reyes figured he would have to shed his chef whites forever and return to the construction business to support his family. Before La Palapa Veracruzana closed, Reyes had augmented his income by taking on handyman jobs. Chris Zielke, co-owner of Bolsa and Smoke, had hired Reyes to rebuild the bar at Bolsa, the popular farm-to-table restaurant in the Bishop Arts District. So Reyes showed up at Bolsa one day and told Zielke he’d closed his restaurant. Zielke encouraged Reyes to try again.

Stay with me.

The space is designed around personalized service. “Google Tajin and the Olmec people can see the inspiration for some of the design elements,” Greene said. “El Tajin are ruins near Veracruz and the people had huge round faces and almost an African look.” The menu? “Mexican, Mexican, Mexican,” Greene said. “This is not Ciudad, this is  going to be traditional Mexican stuff that nobody in Dallas is doing. The menu will feature liver, rabbits, and grasshoppers.” Greene will be in the kitchen but she is also interviewing chefs to work with her.

Take a look at the two logos above. Monica is also trying to decide which logo to use. Which do you like?

The 80-seat restaurant is scheduled to open in January, 2012.

Meso Maya's foyer (left) and strawberry & serrano margarita (right) (All photos courtesy of Meso Maya)

What to expect: Meso Maya, the self-labeled “simple modern Mexican food” restaurant that opened in Preston Forest Shopping Center last week has success writ large from the kitchen to the curb. First, chef Nico Sanchez (The Porch, Hibiscus), whom owner Mike Karns (president of El Fenix) lured away from the Consilient Restaurant Group, is heading up the kitchen. Second, the management team is being wrangled, in part, by the lovely MCrowd veteran, Elizabeth Ruiz. Third, the menu is packed with abundant deliciousness from the fresh margaritas, to the guacamole, to the house-specialty budin Azteca.

We visited (undercover) last week and are still talking about it today. Here’s the scoop:

jump for pictures and details…

On the menu: We started with a house margarita and an order of guacamole. The restaurant’s benchmark — a stunning, fresh margarita — provided a refreshing wake-up call. In a town where you can end up with a margarita made from a mix as easily as you can find yourself drinking a wine-a-rita, being presented with such a solid house drink is worth noting. Within minutes our guacamole arrived. While it was not made tableside, the mash did not suffer from the lack of theatrics. It’s chunky, creamy texture, simple recipe, and verdant color make it a must-order. Likewise for the accompanying chips and house salsa. Although I did not ask at the time, I’d put money on the thin, salty, crispy chips being made in-house.

Rough wood, succulents, and stucco accents hit the interior Mexican vibe hard.

For an entree, I ordered the house specialty: shrimp budin Azteca, which is a sort of Mexican lasagna. My companions settled on carne asada and chicken enchiladas. While the carne asada’s saltiness and moderate chewiness made it just so-so, the budin Azteca was worth ordering again and again. Think of it as Mexican comfort food. The layered corn tortilla pie is neither fancy or complex, but the satisfaction that comes from biting through so many layers of tortilla, cheese, and salsa verde…there’s very little as satisfying. When paired with an order of the cheesy, creamy, savory elote (street corn), the combination is elegant (albeit unnecessary).

Budin Azteca with shrimp (left); queso fundido with an avocado rita (right)

Also notable were the tortillas used in the enchiladas. I would not have thought to praise this in a tortilla, but these were delicate and pliant in a way that all but vanished on the tongue so that the flavors of the chicken, cheese, and sauce could claim center stage.

For dessert, we took our server, Cesar’s, recommendation and ordered the postal de moras, or blueberry terrine, which turned out to be a hot, hearty, dense blueberry cobbler that would score big points any brunch or dessert table. At the end of this particular meal, the flavor and texture pushed us to a place that was nearly transcendent. This one dessert, while not huge, provided a portion-correct capper, even when split between three people.

Succulents (left) and pollo con mole (right)

Who was there: A real mix of Park Cities parents, nondescript regional-Mexican devotees, and even a table of savvy-looking teenagers.

Where to sit: That’s a tough one. William Baker (Meddlesome Moth, Cibus, Rusty Taco) designed the 4,800-square-foot space to have three dining areas and a bar overlooking the open kitchen. The room has little dead space. If you are on a date, ask for the back room with its shadowy corners. Large group? Reserve the maxi-banquette in the far back. Otherwise, sit in a booth along the wall, or at the bar where you’ll have a view of Nico’s kitchen. 

The sultrier back dining area.

Price: The bill felt very reasonable, especially given the flawless service and the level of our enjoyment. For a margarita ($7), guacamole ($8), two soft drinks ($2.25), chicken enchiladas ($11), budin Azteca ($14), carne asada ($18), elote ($4), and postal de moras ($6), our dinner for three came in at $77.90 before tip.

Nice detail: The styling of the room is top notch, from the succulents on the tables to the thematic Mexican furniture in the foyer. Also of note, our waiter, Cesar (who you can also find at La Duni), is one of my favorite servers in town.

The takeaway: Surprisingly, we did not need a reservation, but I’d imagine, now that the word is out, those days are gone. Regardless, the vibe is easy and feasty and did not feel rushed. I’d have preferred if the manager had not called me a “lightweight” for only wanting one drink, but that’s a small gripe from an otherwise stellar experience.

*Hey, eagle-eye: yes, you’re right. The images do not match with all of the dishes mentioned in the text. Sadly, we were unable to gain access to shoot photos of our own and instead are using images supplied by the restaurant. They’re good images, but still…

Items she’s excited about: “Tortas! We have a puerco pibil, guajillo chicken, and braised short rib tortas. Each comes with its own dipping sauce and is served with yucca chips. We’re also offering aguas frescas. Today’s flavors are pineapple, cilantro, and watermelon mint.”

Race you there!

My husband and I have been watching Wild Salsa be built for the past few months, so we decided that even if there was a wait, we were going to try it out. Turns out, there was no wait.

The exterior of the place confused me. Someone said the sign looks like it belongs to a tattoo parlor. I agree. And then they put up a big Day of the Dead mural next to the gorgeous doors. So I was a bit more confused. To the right of all that, you can see into the kitchen. And you can also see that the windows are to be opened. That’s because they’re going to serve tacos from those windows and have seating available outside (and dog treats for those with furry friends).

Okay. So they’re starting to win me over.

I liked the interior. Again, the whole theme is Day of the Dead, and there’s a lot of dark wood on the walls, a few TVs, and some beads. I really enjoyed the whole ambiance. The staff was great. One hostess took all the guests around on a tour of the restaurant. There were no huge slip-ups, which is impressive considering we were there within the first two hours of it opening.

The drinks were delicious. And I really wish I could reference a particular drink, but I didn’t write it down. And they don’t have an online menu yet. So just know that the drinks are delicious.

We ordered a salsa trio with a mango salsa, a poblano pecan pesto salsa, and a third one, which was the recommendation of the waiter. The mango salsa was light and fresh. The pesto was a bit heavy but unlike most of the salsas I’ve tried. And the one the waiter recommended (again, really wish I would have taken notes) was smoky and delicious. Though all the salsas were a treat, I loved the salsa that comes with the chips. It’s a house sauce with an uncooked blend of tomatillo and Serrano peppers bound together by avocado. It’s smooth, but has a bit of a kick. I also ordered the mango, arugula salad that comes with cotija cheese and guajillo chile vinaigrette. Though I didn’t see it mentioned on the menu, it also came with chicken or beef. That combined with the bowls of chip and salsa was enough to require a to-go box.

The prices on the menu were a bit confusing. Overall, it’s a very reasonably priced place.  Unique salsas run about a dollar a piece. My salad was only $8. But then one of the guacamoles costs $12. And there are a few dishes (filets, fish) that cost more than $22.

At first, when I heard another Mexican restaurant was moving downtown, I thought, Do we really need this? We already have Iron Cactus and Sol Irlandes. I didn’t think we needed another. But Wild Salsa isn’t Tex-Mex, it’s Mexican cuisine with some infusion from chef Kelly Hightower.

I love this place. And I’m so excited it’s downtown. I just feel bad for my friends. They now live right above a restaurant.

The best sapper ceviche; the best smile in Dallas. Both by chef Abraham Salum. Photography by Kevin Marple.

Dallas, it’s time to wake up and taste the mole. For too many years, you’ve treated any dish served with a mole as if it were an infectious disease. Perhaps poor misunderstood mole needs a Facebook page to get you to like it. Once you’re friends, you can dig deeper into its profile and get familiar with not just mole’s complex personality but some of Mexico’s other spirited ingredients.

You will learn the word “mole” is simply a Spanish term for sauce. Almost every city, town, or street vendor on the plaza of a village has its own variety of mole rooted in the local culture. There are red, yellow, green, rusty brown, and black moles, each a unique concoction started with rehydrated chiles (traditionally a combination of pasilla, ancho, and cascabel) that are thickened with ground nuts, seeds, corn, or bread and seasoned with dozens of herbs. Some moles are based on sweet-and-tangy tomatoes or poblano peppers; others are invigorated by raisins or plums. The dark, dense, and intense mole negro from Oaxaca leaves a mysterious hint of unsweetened chocolate on the palate.

Continue reading.

This week I headed to Oak Cliff to find one of my favorite hole-in-the-wall restaurants. I can’t even remember its name but I knew where to go. I’ve been living out of Dallas for a while but that didn’t soften the blow when I looked up to find my beloved dive is now another location of Ojedas. We decided to turn around and hit El Ranchito, the lively Tex-Mex with a touch of Monterrey restaurant run by owners Oscar and Laura Sanchez who also operate two locations of Calle Doce.

Jump for cheap lunch.

Enchiladas rice and beans at El Ranchito in Oak Cliff.

We opened the door and were welcomed by the smell of warm tortillas, freshly hand-made in the tortilla station. It wasn’t but a minute after we were seated that our waiter brought us fresh tortilla chips and individual bowls of salsa (I love when restaurants do that!). Painted clay vases lined the shelves behind multi-colored paper lanterns hung from the exposed wood-beam ceiling, and the décor truly showcased Texan and Mexican flare with bright painted chairs on the floor and Mavs jerseys framed on the walls (Dal-Mex, maybe?).

After grazing on chips and salsa (heavy on the cilantro, a huge plus in my book), our food came out piping hot. Sometimes it’s a great thing when food doesn’t photograph well, and in this case, the fact that neither of these dishes look appetizing on camera is a great thing. My friend ordered the cheese enchilada special ($5.99) based on her theory that the best way to judge a place is to see how they handle the basics. Her platter was a hot mess, in the best sense of the phrase. The picture looks revolting, but every bite was delicious. It came with two cheese enchiladas in homemade corn tortillas, smothered with a chili-gravy sauce with cheese and accompanied by buttery-smooth refried beans and Spanish rice.

Chicken mole enchilada with soft cheese tacco and rice at El Ranchito in Oak Cliff.

I ordered the #4 Tex-Mex lunch special ($7.50) that came with a soft cheese taco in a homemade corn tortilla drenched in a cheese sauce, a chicken mole enchilada, and a side of Spanish rice. While the cheese taco was authentic “old-school” Tex-Mex, the enchilada was covered with a thick black sauce with a subtle perfect blend of sweet, savory, and spicy flavors which enhanced loads of seasoned, shredded chicken inside the fresh corn tortilla. Definitely recommend this to your friends on your next lunch out to this place.

Overall: This place is popular, festive, and satisfying. I could see this being on a regular rotation for lunch groups; and judging by the tables full of Dallas County Police “people,” it’s already a regular stop for most people craving authentic Tex-Mex. Not only do they have a ton of lunch specials for way less than eight bucks, but most of their regular menu items fall below the mark as well, from tortas and hamburguesas Mexicanas to Mexican salad and chalupas.

610 West Jefferson Ave., Dallas, 75208

Well Dishers? Where should I go next for my $8 lunch?

Anastacia "AQ" Quiñones, the newest executive chef on Henderson Ave. (photo by Sarah Reiss)

She may be young by chefs’ standards (30), but Tristan Simon feels confident that Anastacia “AQ” Quiñones is ready to helm the ship at Henderson Avenue’s favorite regional Mexican watering hole. Today, Alma rolls out a totally tweaked menu, with AQ’s touches on nearly every dish, from the watermelon in the street corn snacks to the chicken in the chiles rellenos.

With the departure of Michael Brown, Simon moved Quiñones into the spot, telling her, “You were born to be an executive chef.” To which she humbly replied, “I was born to be a cook.” She comes by her humility honestly: she worked her way through CIA, perfected her craft at Jardinière in San Francisco, but more than these, her modesty stems from a family-centered youth spent in Dallas, on Henderson Avenue specifically, and a respect for the heritage passed down from mother to daughter. (Check out the part in the interview below when she talks about her mother learning to cook for her Highland Park employer by watching Sesame Street.)

jump for some more eye candy and the video……

Quinones' chiles rellenos sit atop chicken and are surrounded with Michoan avocadoes (left). Bursts of vibrance (right).

Quinones' revamped enchiladas rojo.

Don't worry, the lounge is still textile-central (left); prepping orchids for the evening's cocktails (right).

Guajillo peppers on my counter make me happy.

We already know that parsley, as a garnish,  is out and micro greens are in. Also, a hamburger is not a hamburger unless it has a pickle or cornichon skewered to the top bun. Today, I predict the demise of the jalapeno and the rise of the guajillo pepper. I know it’s a bold statement, but I’m feeling bold and douchey today. So, if you have anything better to suggest, I’m all (deleted).

Jump for the good stuff.

Parilla

Our first course was parilla: grilled tender chunks of chicken and beef fajitas, sausage, shrimp,  and ribs served on a Mexican parilla with charro beans and rice.

Next was the restaurant’s signature dish cabrito a la parilla (grilled baby goat served family-style with rice, charro beans, guacamole and pico de gallo.

Carne Adobada

The picture of carne adobada may look like carne adobada–pork loin, marinated in chile ancho–but through my tequila glazed eyes, it appeared to be two ancho bathed lovers frolicking on the beach. (Maybe you had to be there). By the way, did I mention that the tortillas are homemade? You can watch them making being made in the restaurant.

Guiso Norteño (beef tenderloin)

Guiso Norteño,beef tenderloin in roasted tomato salsa and topped with cheese, is a glorious synergy of beef and melted cheese.

We ended with a plate of four desserts and they were all good, but for my money the tres leches cake took top honors.

Something that wasn’t on the menu: El Ranchito is one of the most hospitable and comfortable Mexican restaurants in town, right down to the Mariachi singers. If you like Tex-Mex, but don’t know if you want to try authentic Mexican, this is the perfect restaurant to use as a  stepping stone. Be prepared for lines on weekends and neighborhood families out for dinner.

Mesa's empanadas rellenas.

I have missed the food served at La Palapa Veracruzana since owners Raul and Olga Reyes closed the Veracruz-style Mexican restaurant in the fall of 2009. There have been several (eventually false) reports of an imminent reopening. On Friday, the opening was real. Thanks to the help from some friends, Raul and Olga, are back in business at the same location but with a new name, Mesa. I was worried the new restaurant would abandon the commitment to authenticity and excellence in execution that characterized the original. Fortunately, my fears were unfounded.

It turns out Raul’s real job is construction and one of his clients is Bolsa, the iconic farm-to-table restaurant a few blocks away on Davis. Raul routinely fixes Bolsa’s a/c ans plumbing. Chris Zielke, co-owner of Bolsa and Smoke, and  Nick Zukin, the Portland blogger and co-owner of of Kenny and Zuke’s Delicatessen, volunteered their services to help Raul and Olga resurrect their restaurant. Bolsa bartender Eddie ‘Lucky’ Campbell also tossed in some time to develop the cocktail menu. (Don’t miss the luscious house-made spiked horchata.)

Jump for the happy ending.The result is an edgy, informed, and authentic Veracruz-style Mexican restaurant. We started with Empanadas Rellenas ($6.75). These empanadas are a heavy, deep-fried masa and plantain dough stuffed with cheese, chicken ($+2), or shrimp (+$3). Each order contains two empanadas and I recommend asking for one chicken and one shrimp. I am sure it will never happen but if owner Raul and Olga Reyes decide to resell any food item retail, they should distribute these empanadas to supermarket frozen food cases all over town.

Our other appetizer was ceviche ($8.50). You can order this with shrimp, snook, or a combination of the two. I went with the snook. To my knowledge, this is the only hermaphrodite fish that I have ever eaten. Regardless, the ceviche is excellent. The lime is intense, an excellent foil to the buttery avocado.

Ceviche

Costillas en Adobe

For main courses you have a choice of seafood or meat. We went with the Costillas en Adobe ($14.25) (Pork ribs in red chile and plantain sauce served with jasmine rice). The tender pork fell off the bone and the sauce was complex and creamy in texture, but not overly spiced by the peppers.

The sauce for the Mole Mama Cata ($14.75) has more than 20 ingredients. The recipe was passed down from Doña Olga’s mother, Catalina. The unique mole is served over a tender duck leg.  The mole is well-balanced– rich with chiles and a faint hint of unsweetened chocolate, but it doesn’t overwhelm your senses.

Wine and cocktails are provided by Nael Rodriguez, a  16-year veteran of Alberto Lombardi’s restaurant empire. The wine list is a work in progress so feel free to ask him what he has on hand.  We enjoyed the Alamos Torrontes with our appetizers. Like most Alamos wines, it is well made and it was a nice match with the ceviche.

Mole Mama Cata

Something has to be said about the transformation in décor since the days of La Palapa Veracruzana. The floor is now acid-washed concrete. The walls are painted a refined, warm taupe and accented with frames of distressed wood that hide the bulbs which provide the ambient indirect light. The bar has an imposing belly-up-to-me character that matches the approachable, intriguing cocktails and impressive array of tequilas. Outside, the Mesa sign appears to be the work of a chic design house in TriBeca or Soho. Look for it. It’s just a short leap of faith and palate from the  Bishop Arts District  to Jefferson and Beckley. Raul and Olga are waiting for you. And he’d like to make this restaurant his only job.