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Articles about Regional Mexican Cuisine

Cafe San Miguel is Closing on Sunday

First Alma, now Cafe San Miguel. This just in from a loyal Disher and Cafe San Miguel diner:

Had lunch there today and was told by our waitress that they are closing on Sunday.

Is the Dallas revolution in Mexican cuisine flatlining?

posted by Nancy Nichols | November 1st, 2011 6:47pm | filed under Closings, Mexican Revolution, Regional Mexican Cuisine, Restaurant News | 6 Comments »

Restaurant Review: Mesa in Oak Cliff

The Reyeses; their creamy flan de naranja. (photography by Kevin Marple)

Raul Reyes opened his first restaurant in 2008, a tiny place in Oak Cliff serving the colorful cuisine of his birthplace, the Veracruz region of Mexico. La Palapa Veracruzana was run by his family, wife Olga working as his co-chef, daughter Jaretzy taking managerial duties, and son Raul Jr. waiting tables. The seafood-centric menu snagged the palates of serious food lovers and critics in Dallas, but the kudos posted on food blogs and the glowing reviews couldn’t keep it alive. It closed after only a year.

“We never pulled an alcohol license,” Reyes says by way of explanation. “I couldn’t. My daughter was manager and she was only 17.”

Dejected, Reyes figured he would have to shed his chef whites forever and return to the construction business to support his family. Before La Palapa Veracruzana closed, Reyes had augmented his income by taking on handyman jobs. Chris Zielke, co-owner of Bolsa and Smoke, had hired Reyes to rebuild the bar at Bolsa, the popular farm-to-table restaurant in the Bishop Arts District. So Reyes showed up at Bolsa one day and told Zielke he’d closed his restaurant. Zielke encouraged Reyes to try again.

Stay with me.

posted by Nancy Nichols | October 27th, 2011 10:00am | filed under C.J. Wilson is on notice, Go Rangers!, Mexican Revolution, Regional Mexican Cuisine, Restaurant News, Reviews, oak cliff | 8 Comments »

Monica Greene’s New Restaurant, Tajin, is Under Construction

Veteran Dallas restaurateur Monica Greene’s new Mexico City-style full-service restaurant, Tajin, is under construction at the ILUME building on Cedar Springs. “The name represents beginnings to me,” Greene said. “I was born on a street named Tajin and it was there I would sit in the kitchen with the family cooks and learn how to cook.”

The space is designed around personalized service. “Google Tajin and the Olmec people can see the inspiration for some of the design elements,” Greene said. “El Tajin are ruins near Veracruz and the people had huge round faces and almost an African look.” The menu? “Mexican, Mexican, Mexican,” Greene said. “This is not Ciudad, this is  going to be traditional Mexican stuff that nobody in Dallas is doing. The menu will feature liver, rabbits, and grasshoppers.” Greene will be in the kitchen but she is also interviewing chefs to work with her.

Take a look at the two logos above. Monica is also trying to decide which logo to use. Which do you like?

The 80-seat restaurant is scheduled to open in January, 2012.

posted by Nancy Nichols | September 22nd, 2011 9:00am | filed under Celebrity Chefs, Openings, Regional Mexican Cuisine, Restaurant News | 16 Comments »

Chef Gabriel DeLeon Reports Mi Dia in Grapevine Will Open on Oct 3

Chef Gabriel DeLeon says October 3 is the target date for the opening of Mi Dia in Grapevine. DeLeon’s new menu is a combination of Tex-Mex, Mexican, and Santa Fe-style dishes. I peeked in a couple of weeks ago and, even under construction, the dining room looks lovely. DeLeon has been cooking around these parts for quite a while. He worked at his uncle’s restaurant Esparza’s in Grapevine before he opened La Margarita restaurant in Irving, Texas. Most recently, he was the driving force behind Masaryk, a modern Mexican kitchen and tequila lounge.

posted by Nancy Nichols | September 21st, 2011 2:09pm | filed under Openings, Regional Mexican Cuisine, Restaurant News |

Meso Maya Opens for Lunch

Last week we posted a First Take of Meso Maya, the lovely new regional Mexican eatery at Preston Forest. Today they wrote to let us know that they are now officially open for lunch. Lunch service runs daily from 11 am to 4 pm so you have plenty time to get over there.

posted by Sarah Reiss | September 1st, 2011 11:52am | filed under Regional Mexican Cuisine, Restaurant News, lunch |

First-Take Review: Meso Maya Rocks Preston Forest With Regional Mexican Moxie

Meso Maya's foyer (left) and strawberry & serrano margarita (right) (All photos courtesy of Meso Maya)

What to expect: Meso Maya, the self-labeled “simple modern Mexican food” restaurant that opened in Preston Forest Shopping Center last week has success writ large from the kitchen to the curb. First, chef Nico Sanchez (The Porch, Hibiscus), whom owner Mike Karns (president of El Fenix) lured away from the Consilient Restaurant Group, is heading up the kitchen. Second, the management team is being wrangled, in part, by the lovely MCrowd veteran, Elizabeth Ruiz. Third, the menu is packed with abundant deliciousness from the fresh margaritas, to the guacamole, to the house-specialty budin Azteca.

We visited (undercover) last week and are still talking about it today. Here’s the scoop:

jump for pictures and details… (more…)

posted by Sarah Reiss | August 25th, 2011 1:47pm | filed under Openings, Regional Mexican Cuisine, Restaurant 101, Restaurant News, Second coming, Sexy food, Spicy foods, seafood | 6 Comments »

Alma on Henderson Ave. Opens for Lunch Today (And There Was Much Rejoicing)

I’ve had some pretty sweet meals at Alma—the enchiladas rojo, the cochinita pibil, the chile rellenos. So the news that, as of 11 am today, Alma will start serving lunch has literally made my week. Recently-promoted exec chef AQ (Anastacia Quiñones) has put together a lunch menu rich with regional faves.

Items she’s excited about: “Tortas! We have a puerco pibil, guajillo chicken, and braised short rib tortas. Each comes with its own dipping sauce and is served with yucca chips. We’re also offering aguas frescas. Today’s flavors are pineapple, cilantro, and watermelon mint.”

Race you there!

posted by Sarah Reiss | July 21st, 2011 1:25pm | filed under Regional Mexican Cuisine, lunch |

Wild Salsa: Hate the Sign, Love the Food

Downtown’s pretty exciting right now. First, Dirt opened on Monday (adorable store, go visit). Then, last night, Wild Salsa opened. And, according to a conversation I had with the manager at Pho Colonial, their downtown location will open in two weeks.

My husband and I have been watching Wild Salsa be built for the past few months, so we decided that even if there was a wait, we were going to try it out. Turns out, there was no wait.

The exterior of the place confused me. Someone said the sign looks like it belongs to a tattoo parlor. I agree. And then they put up a big Day of the Dead mural next to the gorgeous doors. So I was a bit more confused. To the right of all that, you can see into the kitchen. And you can also see that the windows are to be opened. That’s because they’re going to serve tacos from those windows and have seating available outside (and dog treats for those with furry friends).

Okay. So they’re starting to win me over.

(more…)

posted by Krista Nightengale | July 13th, 2011 11:47am | filed under Mexican Revolution, Neighborhood restaurants, Regional Mexican Cuisine, grand opening | 11 Comments »

Meso Maya to Open in Preston Forest in Dallas

Just off the phone with former MCrowd veteran, Elizabeth Ruiz. She is consulting on Meso Maya, a “simple modern Mexican food” restaurant slated to open August 1 in the former Chic from Barcelona space in Preston Forest. The chef is Nico Sanchez, formerly of Consilient Restaurants (The Porch, Hibiscus). The house specialty will be Budin Azteca, sort of a Mexican lasagna or tortilla pie if you will, along with sopas such as sopa de lima and posole de puerco. William Baker (Meddlesome Moth, Cibus, Rusty Taco) has designed the 4,800-square foot space which includes three dining areas with three vibes and a floating bar overlooking the open kitchen. Meso Maya is owned by Mike Karns, president of El Fenix. Follow them on Facebook.

posted by Nancy Nichols | July 5th, 2011 11:24am | filed under Openings, Regional Mexican Cuisine, Restaurant News | 3 Comments »

Restaurant Review: Komali in Dallas

The best sapper ceviche; the best smile in Dallas. Both by chef Abraham Salum. Photography by Kevin Marple.

Dallas, it’s time to wake up and taste the mole. For too many years, you’ve treated any dish served with a mole as if it were an infectious disease. Perhaps poor misunderstood mole needs a Facebook page to get you to like it. Once you’re friends, you can dig deeper into its profile and get familiar with not just mole’s complex personality but some of Mexico’s other spirited ingredients.

You will learn the word “mole” is simply a Spanish term for sauce. Almost every city, town, or street vendor on the plaza of a village has its own variety of mole rooted in the local culture. There are red, yellow, green, rusty brown, and black moles, each a unique concoction started with rehydrated chiles (traditionally a combination of pasilla, ancho, and cascabel) that are thickened with ground nuts, seeds, corn, or bread and seasoned with dozens of herbs. Some moles are based on sweet-and-tangy tomatoes or poblano peppers; others are invigorated by raisins or plums. The dark, dense, and intense mole negro from Oaxaca leaves a mysterious hint of unsweetened chocolate on the palate.

Continue reading.

posted by Nancy Nichols | June 24th, 2011 11:30am | filed under Kevin Marple, Regional Mexican Cuisine, Restaurant News, Reviews | 5 Comments »

Ate it for $8: El Ranchito in Oak Cliff

Kristy Alpert’s latest report on where you can find great food for less than eight dollars.

This week I headed to Oak Cliff to find one of my favorite hole-in-the-wall restaurants. I can’t even remember its name but I knew where to go. I’ve been living out of Dallas for a while but that didn’t soften the blow when I looked up to find my beloved dive is now another location of Ojedas. We decided to turn around and hit El Ranchito, the lively Tex-Mex with a touch of Monterrey restaurant run by owners Oscar and Laura Sanchez who also operate two locations of Calle Doce.

Jump for cheap lunch.

(more…)

posted by Nancy Nichols | June 24th, 2011 9:58am | filed under Ate it For $8, Regional Mexican Cuisine, Restaurant News, Tex-Mex | 1 Comment »

Exclusive Video Interview with Anastacia “AQ” Quiñones, New Executive Chef at Alma on Henderson Ave.

Anastacia "AQ" Quiñones, the newest executive chef on Henderson Ave. (photo by Sarah Reiss)

She may be young by chefs’ standards (30), but Tristan Simon feels confident that Anastacia “AQ” Quiñones is ready to helm the ship at Henderson Avenue’s favorite regional Mexican watering hole. Today, Alma rolls out a totally tweaked menu, with AQ’s touches on nearly every dish, from the watermelon in the street corn snacks to the chicken in the chiles rellenos.

With the departure of Michael Brown, Simon moved Quiñones into the spot, telling her, “You were born to be an executive chef.” To which she humbly replied, “I was born to be a cook.” She comes by her humility honestly: she worked her way through CIA, perfected her craft at Jardinière in San Francisco, but more than these, her modesty stems from a family-centered youth spent in Dallas, on Henderson Avenue specifically, and a respect for the heritage passed down from mother to daughter. (Check out the part in the interview below when she talks about her mother learning to cook for her Highland Park employer by watching Sesame Street.)

jump for some more eye candy and the video…… (more…)

posted by Sarah Reiss | June 8th, 2011 9:00am | filed under Chefs, Diets are stupid, Eat This Now!, Regional Mexican Cuisine, Restaurant News | 2 Comments »

Dallas Trend Prediction: Guajillo Chile Peppers are the New Jalapeno

Guajillo peppers on my counter make me happy.

We already know that parsley, as a garnish,  is out and micro greens are in. Also, a hamburger is not a hamburger unless it has a pickle or cornichon skewered to the top bun. Today, I predict the demise of the jalapeno and the rise of the guajillo pepper. I know it’s a bold statement, but I’m feeling bold and douchey today. So, if you have anything better to suggest, I’m all (deleted).

posted by Nancy Nichols | June 2nd, 2011 2:01pm | filed under Cooking, Cult Cuisine, Eat This Now!, Ethnic Food, Groceries, Health Food, Regional Mexican Cuisine, Spicy foods, hostess gifts, questionable judgment | 3 Comments »

El Ranchito Shows Off Monterrey Cuisine in Dallas

For 28 years El Ranchito has been one of Oak Cliff’s most popular Mexican restaurants. Owners Oscar and Laura Sanchez have  had success with their two locations of  La Calle Doce but, at El Ranchito, they want showcase the food of their native region of Monterrey.  This week they invited the press in to sample the menu. I seized on the opportunity.

Jump for the good stuff.

(more…)

posted by Andrew Chalk | May 25th, 2011 9:14am | filed under Andrew Chalk, Regional Mexican Cuisine, Restaurant News | 2 Comments »

With a Little Help From Their Friends, Raul and Olga Reyes Open Mesa in Oak Cliff

Mesa's empanadas rellenas.

I have missed the food served at La Palapa Veracruzana since owners Raul and Olga Reyes closed the Veracruz-style Mexican restaurant in the fall of 2009. There have been several (eventually false) reports of an imminent reopening. On Friday, the opening was real. Thanks to the help from some friends, Raul and Olga, are back in business at the same location but with a new name, Mesa. I was worried the new restaurant would abandon the commitment to authenticity and excellence in execution that characterized the original. Fortunately, my fears were unfounded.

It turns out Raul’s real job is construction and one of his clients is Bolsa, the iconic farm-to-table restaurant a few blocks away on Davis. Raul routinely fixes Bolsa’s a/c ans plumbing. Chris Zielke, co-owner of Bolsa and Smoke, and  Nick Zukin, the Portland blogger and co-owner of of Kenny and Zuke’s Delicatessen, volunteered their services to help Raul and Olga resurrect their restaurant. Bolsa bartender Eddie ‘Lucky’ Campbell also tossed in some time to develop the cocktail menu. (Don’t miss the luscious house-made spiked horchata.)

Jump for the happy ending. (more…)

posted by Andrew Chalk | May 23rd, 2011 9:14am | filed under Andrew Chalk, Ethnic Food, Openings, Regional Mexican Cuisine, Restaurant News | 9 Comments »