Articles about Nostalgia
Which Dallas Restaurant Would You Revive?
So are we.
I was just digging around in the archives and came across this post George Lewis put up almost three years ago. He writes:
Imagine you had the power–a genie in a bottle of Chateau Latour Pomerol to grant you one wish. If you could rub her it and be granted the gift to bring one dead restaurant back to life, which one would you revive and why? Riviera? Routh Street? Nero’s?
The results were interesting: after 146 genie rubs, Lola, Il Sorrento, and Ciudad were the top three. I might pick Youngblood’s Fried Chicken or maybe Calluaud’s. Or Ewald’s. Or Phil’s Delicatessen. And you?
165 Comments »Fans of Cuba Libre Gets Special Treat From Nick Badovinus
The happiest Susan is Susanville.
Last month, I received an email from Paul, a SideDish reader. He wrote in an email with a subject line “Missing Cuba Libre”:
My wife and I were talking recently about how much we miss Cuba Libre, particularly a mixed basket of the plantain and tortillas chips with three sauces plus black-bean dip, the spinach salad with mango or passion-fruit vinaigrette, and, most of all, the phenomenal Voodoo Blackened Salmon atop coconut rice and sautéed vegetables. Moreover and aside from the palate-pleasing flavors, the salmon was always cooked to perfection as a narrow filet, but thicker than any cut I have found elsewhere in Dallas.
I forwarded the email to Nick Badovinus, the opening chef at Cuba Libre. Today comes word that Badovinus rocked Paul’s, and his wife, Susan’s world.
This past Monday, for my wife Susan’s 45th birthday, Nick and his kitchen staff and Will (our extraordinary server), went above and beyond any dining experience in recent memory, properly pacing a phenomenal 3-hour culinary excursion for my wife Susan and two of our dear friends. Below is our menu and we continue to enjoy all that we brought home. I can’t succinctly write how extraordinary each dish was in its own unique way!
Nicely played, Badovinus. Dangerous precedent.
Continue reading "Fans of Cuba Libre Gets Special Treat From Nick Badovinus"
1 Comment »Marc Cassel’s Fish Story: Why it Took Him 25 Years to Open 20 Feet Seafood Joint
Cassel Doctrine: Marc and wife Suzan Fries wanted to open an honest place, with no foams or test tubes. (Photography by Desiree Espada)
Tim “Pied Piper of Peavy” Rogers lives in East Dallas. He loves East Dallas. He is a frequent customer at Goodfriend. In this month’s D Magazine, Timmy writes a nice piece on Marc Cassel and the special camaraderie that exists between the chefs, cooks, beer folks, and restaurateurs of East Dallas. Some of the history goes way back to the dark ages of Deep Ellum. Let’s here it for Timmy.
One night several weeks before the January opening of their East Dallas restaurant, 20 Feet Seafood Joint, Marc Cassel and his wife, Suzan Fries, tested their new fryer for the first time. Fries wore a blue apron and a short haircut suited to kitchen work. She squeezed a pastry bag, producing a series of chocolate “20”s on parchment paper, while Cassel, in matching apron, his long white goatee giving him the appearance of a birthday party magician, gingerly laid a piece of battered cod into hot oil. First he tried a yeast batter, then tempura. Brined fish, then unbrined. Much experimentation lay ahead as the couple worked toward a menu.
Remembering Dallas Restaurants: Jamie’s Gourmet Burgers
In June, 2010, I wrote a blog post called Remembering Dallas Restaurants: How Far Back Do You Go. There were over 100 comments and reading them is a real trip down memory lane for those of us who have been around here for a long (really long) time. This morning comes an email from a reader. She’s jonsing for Jamie’s. Remember Jamie’s Gourmet Burgers on Lemon Avenue. One reader swears it was on Inwood but I remember it being behind Esquire Theater on Oak Lawn. They served stuffed burgers, curly fries, and baked beans. THE BEST thing about Jamie’s? The centerpiece was a flag and you raised it when you wanted a server. I can’t believe nobody else has ever done that. It’s brilliant. Anyway, back to my original point. Reader asks all you geezers out there to stretch your brains back to mid-70s.
Nancy, Years ago there was a Jaimie’s (Jamie’s sp.?) restaurant on Lemon Ave. They were known for their stuffed burgers. One was with walnuts. Is there any way I can find this recipe? Or anything you know of that ?
Anybody else got a recipe request or story to tell?
20 Comments »Nick and Kelli Barclay Visit Dallas. Will Nick Return to Cook?
Yesterday I lunched with Nick and Kelli Barclay, the dashing couple who once operated Barclay’s, the popular modern Euro-British restaurant in the once darling Victorian house on Fairmount Street. The house went on to house Van “Morrison” Roberts’ Lola, where David (Lucia) Uygur was a chef, and The Common Table. The Barclays left Dallas in 2000 and returned to Cornwall, Nick’s homeland in the southwestern tip of England. There, in the small town of Looe, they built their dream hotel/restaurant, The Barclay House. They sold the hotel in 2006 and have been having a blast with their Blueplate Restaurant near Looe.
During our barbecue feast at Lockhart Smokehouse in Oak Cliff, we discussed the possibility of Nick coming back to Dallas. Twelve years is a lifetime in the restaurant business and I wondered if Nick felt his cooking style was still relevant. “Relevant?” Barclay said with a laugh. “I’ve been doing farm-to-table cooking all of my life.”
This is true. Barclay’s was a special place and Nick’s menu was always filled with local ingredients. “If we were going to make a move back, now would be the time,” Kelli said. “Our kids would be very excited.” The Barclay’s have a 15-year old daughter, Hanna, and 12-year old twins, Nick and Lucy. They still own a home in Dallas, Kelli’s home town.
Somebody Help This Poor Girl: Name of Wine Bar
She’s a nostalgic gal with a bad case of brain freeze. Hear her cry:
Hi Nancy, I am on the hunt for the name of a bar that used to be located on lower Greenville Ave past the Ross Ave split. It existed in the late 80s early 90s. It was across the street from the Sears. I remember it was a wine bar and you could order plates of cheeses. Anyway, my husband handed me your email address because I am racking my brain trying to remember the name. I apologize for wasting your time.
Waste away…
10 Comments »Somebody Help This Poor Boy: Great New York Cheesecake in Dallas
He’s a lean, mean, non-fighting machine with his eye on the future and a nostalgic stomach. He reminisces:
Hi, Nancy. Do you remember Phil’s Delicatessen on Oak Lawn? I think it was in was where Lucky’s is now. The sandwiches were piled high and the cheesecake was delicious—the blueberry sauce dripping all over it. Is there any place in Dallas that even compares to Phil’s? Particularly the cheesecake? Thanks.
Two years ago, we talked about this. And SideDish readers constructed the perfect Dallas Delicatessen.
4 Comments »Amazing Anniversary Story from The Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek
Four Couples and an Anniversary: Mr.& Mrs. Bill Taylor; Mr. & Mrs. John Withers; Mr. & Mrs. Ron Dalton; Mr. & Mrs. Frank Meier.
I just received an email from Ryan Harvey, the restaurant manager at The Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek. I found the story charming.
Last night in the Mansion Restaurant, we were surprised to learn that we were going to have two couples joining us in the dining room that were celebrating their 53rd wedding anniversary. We planned to sit them close together so that we could enlighten them with the news. Well, what took place next was truly amazing…
Jump, Cinderella. Continue reading "Amazing Anniversary Story from The Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek"
9 Comments »New Sign Shipped to Dallas: Guess the Restaurant
Check out this vintage sign that was shipped to Dallas. It’s currently getting hooked up inside a local restaurant. Guess the name of the place and you will win a Godiva Chocolate black-almond-truffle-scented candle.
Matt’s Rancho Martinez To Reopen in Mid-July
I know many of you waiting for the reopening of Matt’s Rancho Martinez are anxious and getting antsy pants. I checked in with general manager Patrick Johnson and he says they are shooting for mid-July.
You may remember Matt’s lease expired in February and the landlord chose to replace Matt’s with a Mi Cocina. (cue Joni). The Martinez family, which has been in the business of Tex-Mex for six generations, decided to relocate nearby (1904 Skillman Ave.). A move that is not surprising: The formidable Martinez family business began in 1925 when they opened their first restaurant, El Original, in Austin. Matt Martinez Sr. established El Rancho in Austin in 1952. In 1985 his son Matt Martinez Jr. and his wife Estella moved to Dallas and launched a Tex-Mex revolution at Matt’s Rancho Martinez in Lakewood. Sadly, Matt Martinez Jr. passed away in March, 2009. He was one of the finest and most creative chefs in the city. Now Matt Jr. and Estelle’s son, Matt Martinez III, is the chef at Matt’s Rancho Martinez. And he and his staff will be back in business in mid-July.
If you like mariachi music and history, you’ll love this video.
Dallas Farmers Market Friends Hosts 6th Annual Mama Ida’s Ice Cream Social
Mama Ida and the winning team of Joshua Webster, Elvin Westbrook, Charles Miller, and Aaron Cessac at the Third Annual Mama Ida's Ice Cream Social in 2008. (Photo by Nancy Nichols)
Life in Dallas hasn’t been the same since Mama Ida Papert passed away in January 2011. She was a driving force behind the Dallas Farmers Market for nearly 60 years. Her tireless efforts to make the Farmers Market a vibrant venue in downtown Dallas are well-known among food lovers, farmers, and bureaucrats alike. In 1991, she formed the Dallas Farmers Market Friends, an advocacy group that boasts more than 400 members, and, in 1993, she joined forces with the American Institute of Wine and Food to start cooking classes in the Resource Center.
She also initiated Mama Ida’s Ice Cream Social, an event that benefits local culinary students and participants of the nutrition and culinary arts program at the Dallas County Youth Village. Ida loved this event. This Next Saturday (June 16) you can fall in love with it too.
The 6th Annual Mama Ida’s Ice Cream Social takes place from 9 a.m. – 11 and for $5 you can sample the ice cream made by the kids and cast your vote. The ice cream social ‘Public Choice’ winners will be awarded $250 for first place, $150 for second place and $75 for third. It’s a hoot. And as long as you’re at the market, load up on fresh fruit and produce. It’s prime time. More information here. Miss you, Mama Ida.
8 Comments »Trending: Rosé Wine is the New Pinot Noir. Rise No.1 Offers Proof With New Rosé Wine List
Don't say Chardonnay, say Rosé.
Thanks to Central Market’s Passport France and Rise No. 1’s new “Summer of Rosé” program, the pretty pink wine is the talk of the town. According to several employees at Central Market, a record number of customers bought cases of Rosé during Passport France. (I think the Preston Royal store is putting them on sale soon.) Hedda Dowd, of Rise No. 1, is a big fan of Rosé. She has compiled a unique list of 12 Rosés which she will offer by the bottle, glass, or flight. “They are all French,” Dowd said. “Except for one. My sister, Dominique, and her husband make a Grenache Rosé at their vineyard in California. We have the last ten cases.” Her brother-in-law is Boz Scaggs, a Dallas boy who attended St. Mark’s. The vineyard is Scaggs Vineyards. Dowd says the only other restaurant serving this Rosé is Chez Panisse.
These Rosés are not the sweet stuff your mother used to swill, they are dry and when served with a slight chill they are refreshing and food-friendly. Live a little. The next time you lazily utter Chardonnay, change your mind and say Rosé.
Jump for everything you ever wanted to know about Rosé and the beautiful list created by Rise No. 1. Continue reading "Trending: Rosé Wine is the New Pinot Noir. Rise No.1 Offers Proof With New Rosé Wine List"
Checking in on Ranchman’s Café in Ponder, Texas
I just received an email from a reader. She asked if Ranchman’s Café in Ponder, Texas was still good. The small comfort food restaurant, which has been open since 1948, used to serve the best chicken fried steak and pies in the area. The kitchen used to pan-fry a thick T-bone steak. Now they use pounded patties. I haven’t been since October, 2009 when I wrote this post which includes a video of them making CFS. when I shot this video. Any of you been recently?
Coming Home From Vacation: Where is The First Place You Eat in Dallas
How many times have you returned from a vacation and rushed to your favorite restaurant for a fix of your favorite food? For almost 20 years, I drove from the airport to Mi Cocina in Preston Royal and went face down in a plate of nachos. Then came In-N-Out. Okay, so Andrew doesn’t love it. He’s British. He ingests cans of Spotted Dick Sponge Pudding and Vegemite, a nasty paste I use as a bug killer.
I lived in California for 11 years so perhaps I am experiencing the reverse-home-town-food-nostalgia syndrome that affects older people because when I returned from vacation last week, I drove straight to In-N-Out and devoured a DDAS (double-double animal style) like a rabid coyote. EVERYBODY knows you order the fries crispy at INO. Everybody but Andrew.
Anywhoo, where do you go when you re-enter your life in Dallas?
Sissy’s Fried Chicken Makes You Feel Right at Home
Main dining room (left); screen porch (right) [photos by Micah Nunley)
It’s no secret that I avoid fried chicken like a bad disease. Something about fried chicken makes me want to look, sniff, and throw it back inside the KFC container it came in. Yet Sissy’s fried chicken is something else entirely. Paired with a fresh housemade Sriracha sauce, this Lisa Garza special has that hard-to-find balance you seek in any good ‘ole piece of Southern fried chicken: crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside.
At the media lunch I attended last week, I split a family-style meal with three other persons, and it took no small amount of self control to remember my table manners and share the amazing plates provided by Sissy’s Southern Kitchen and Bar.
Jump for some more Sissy’s love. Continue reading "Sissy’s Fried Chicken Makes You Feel Right at Home"
Nana Restaurant in Dallas to Close in June and Reopen as a Steakhouse in September
My Last Supper at Nana: Grilled duck with beets. Photography by Kevin Marple.
This news breaks my heart. Nana Restaurant at the Hilton Anatole, led by the talented and innovative chef Anthony Bombaci, will close on June 9. The restaurant will undergo reconstructive surgery and emerge as an upscale steak house in late September.
Here are some of the details I’ve beat out the bushes. The new name has not been selected. (We can certainly help with that. Leave your suggestion below.) The interior, designed by a California firm, will be “contemporary with an LA-inspired design.” (The skyline view will remain Dallas’!) The menu will be “all about steaks and one-of-a-kind sides and desserts.” The executive chef of the steakhouse hasn’t been confirmed, but that person will work under Anthony Bombaci who has been promoted. I don’t know his position at this point.
Oh, Nana. You have been such a blessing to this city. We loved you when Doug Brown was the chef and Jason Foss was the pastry chef. We loved you during the fancy days when David McMillan sent entrees out of Versace and Rosenthal china and general manager and wine expert Paul Pinnell roamed the room. We love you for bringing Anthony Bombaci to Dallas. This news makes me appreciate my last meal at Nana even more.
Make a final visit and pay homage to Nana. You have a little over three months to get your Bombaci fix. Make a reservation now: 214-761-7470. And name the new restaurant below!
Somebody Help This Poor Girl: Restaurant Memory Lane
This plea from another Disher suffering from restaurant memory loss:
I am trying to recollect the name of a restaurant that was operating in the 1970’s and 80’s located on the Circle – it was rather exclusive (and if my memory serves me correctly – required reservations). Probably around 1979, family members took my nephew there for his high school graduation dinner – and recently we were sitting around discussing that event – and guess what? Not a one of us could recall the name of the restaurant.
Southern Kitchen?
11 Comments »What is Your Favorite Song About Food?
I have two songs permanently embedded in my head. They’ve been there for years (centuries?). They have a life of their own and flow from the deep recesses of my right cerebrum and out of my mouth without a prompt. One is “I Want to Marry a Lighthouse Keeper.” The other is “Java Jive” as performed by Manhattan Transfer. We all know “Brown Sugar” has nothing to do with food, but, WITHOUT GOOGLE, what songs about food do you sing? Waiter, waiter, percolator…
Memory Lane: What Was the Name of That Restaurant?
Mission Accomplished: The lowest Greenville Ave. place was Clouseau.,
Anybody remember the name of the small French bistro on Lowest Greenville (at Prospect) that was open for a few years in the early ’80s? I believe it was run by Tom (Stoneleigh P) Garrison’s then wife.
18 Comments »Top Twelve Bites I Put in My Mouth in 2011
Mi Dia: The best bite I put in my mouth in 2011.
There’s a common sentiment among restaurant critics: We have to eat a lot of poor quality and mediocre food before we taste something memorable. But, oh baby, when that over-the-top bite hits your mouth, you know you’ve found it. Something about the drink, dish, or dessert pushes it above the hundreds of thousands of other bites you’ve taken over the year.
The following items rocked my senses in 2011. In no particular order, and off the top of my head, they are:
- Italian “English” muffins at Eatzi’s. (Extra points for the McCutcheon’s preserves.)
- The Scarf Dancer cocktail at Marquee Grill and Bar.
- Fried avocados at The Commissary.
- Ox eyes stacked enchiladas at Mi Dia From Scratch. (Blue corn tortillas, beef, cheese, and onion enchiladas, topped with New Mexico red & green chile sauces, crema & fried eggs. (The best bite of the year.)
- Lemon cake at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse.
- Steamed swordfish with a salad of fresh summer greens at Lucia.
- The salad of chopped iceberg lettuce, diced tomatoes, crumbled blue cheese, avocado, and crispy prosciutto at Maggiano’s. (A good chopped salad is hard to find.)
- A double-double animal-style burger at In-N-Out Burger. However, the fries are forgettable.
- I got straight past the pizza and Cane Rosso and dive face first into a Cuban sandwich: a magnificent mess of tender Berkshire pork shoulder braised with beer and onions; layered with prosciutto, baby Swiss cheese, and horseradish pickles; and piled on puffy, hot bread spread with spicy mustard and Calabrian chile aioli.
- The green curry chicken served in an iron pot at Malai Kitchen.
- The charcuterie plate at The Grape.
- The slow-cooked oxtail scented with hoja santa and served with a cob of roasted corn and masa dumplings at Mesa.
Most Pleasant Meal of the Year: Dinner at Lavendou. Sometimes the taste of the food is elevated by the overall dining experience. Usually it happens spontaneously. One cold, rainy evening I went to dinner at Lavendou with two dear friends. The dining room was crowded and festive, but not loud. The service was friendly, but not in-your-face. The food was delicious and the French wine stimulated our conversation for hours. We left full of more than food. We shared a meal that was more than just a sum of its parts on a cold, rainy Monday night.
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