Last night, my husband and I stopped by CBD Provisions for a post-work bite. We were seated at a corner table and chose to sit on the bench together with our backs to the wall. We had a superb view of the open kitchen and bustling dining room. We were lapping up the final drops of our cocktails, and scraping morsels of chicken liver mousse out of a glass ramekin with a butter knife when my husband groaned and threw his hand up to cover his eyes. Before I could ask him what was wrong, an icy white light shot straight into my line-of-sight.Read More
Yesterday I moderated a panel discussion at the Texas Restaurant Association’s annual Marketplace at the Kay Bailey Hutchison Convention Center. The topic “Cutting Through the Glass Ceiling,” a look at, in broad (no pun intended) terms, the paths women take through what is still a male-dominated industry.Read More
Paul Martin’s American Grill is opening this summer. Do we need more mac and cheese, burgers, and braised short ribs?Read More
I was going to avoid writing this post until the March issue of D Magazine goes online, on March 2. That way it would be easier to explain the reasoning behind my decision to change my life and my job. But then the mail went out, and, after subscribers received their magazines and read my story, I received some supportive emails and texts.
Before the rumor mill mangles the truth, I will give you the short version.Read More
When John Tesar attacked Leslie Brenner in a public forum, he started a fire that still burns. For many of us who work in the restaurant business — I include food journalists, critics, and bloggers in this lot — the last week has been tumultuous. I’m going to try and make some sense out of it.Read More
One of the most important jobs of a server is to guide a customer through a menu. Does it bother you when you ask for a suggestion and they reply, “Everything is great!” Drives me nuts.Read More
Chinese-American food: not my thing. I didn’t grow up eating from white takeout boxes filled with sesame chicken, and I think fortune cookies are a terrible way to end a perfectly good meal. But this, I acknowledge, isn’t how a good chunk of Americans feel about General Tso’s chicken.
That being said, NPR did an interesting story about an 8-month-old restaurant in Shanghai called Fortune Cookie. Two Cornell University grads, David Rossi and Fung Lam, opened a restaurant serving Chinese-American food in one of the most international cities in the world. Shanghai, where my brother lives, has a bigger spread of ethnic cuisine (Uyghur cuisine, for instance, is popular there.) than any other city I’ve visited. You can also walk out the door of your apartment building, take five steps to a random street stand, and order 12 handmade soup dumplings for an astoundingly low price.Read More
Here are the most-popular posts on SideDish in 2013. It’s a surprising list.Read More
Servers who work in a fine dining restaurant have a hard job. Their task is especially difficult if they choose to perform their duties with poise. A seasoned server assesses each table of customers and controls the pace of the meal accordingly. There is not a one-size-fits-all formula for service. Some customers want detailed food […]Read More
Yesterday, Leslie Brenner posted an item titled: “A Wasabi-Filled Dose of Revisionist History.” She writes about the just-released menu at Toko V, the new restaurant opening tomorrow in the upstairs section of what used to be Marquee Grill. The news release describes the restaurant at “Asian cuisine and crafted cocktails in a sleek, modern setting.” One […]Read More
If you write or read food blogs or food-news-driven sites, Josh Ozersky’s article “Blog-Tied: How a Hunger for Clicks Drives New York’s Brutally Fickle Food Scene” is a must read. Ozersky did time as a writer on Grub Street and he lived to write about it. Here’s the money pull quote: “I was the first editor […]Read More
I’ve been doing some work behind the scenes updating our restaurant directory. We have a bazillion Japanese/Sushi restaurants in our files. There are almost as many burger joints. I have to wonder: Do you people eat sushi every night? If not, give me an average of how many meals a week you eat sushi.Read More