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Articles about Hot Links!
Avner Samuel and Jon Stevens Ride Again: Snack Opens in Dallas May 22
The Avner Samuel; The Bailey. En fuego.
Whirling dervish chef Avner Samuel and his sidekick chef Jon Stevens are ready to open Snack, their “street-food-inspired-low price-points-small-plates-daily-chalkboard-special restaurant on Henderson in the space formerly known as Horne & Dekker. (Whew!) There will be three bar areas: one with cocktails, wine and beer; the second is a raw bar, but also includes a charcuterie element and hot small plates; the third, features a large wood-burning oven for made-to-order flatbreads and distinct hot dishes. (Whew!) Listen up:
From the age-old market-squares and bazaars to today’s street food vendors, SNACK is the creation of a street-to-table inspired menu. The menu includes dinner items such as short rib tacos with pineapple habanero and cilantro crema ($8), pork shumai dumplings ($9), chicken shawarmas with cucumber tahini and pickled onion ($8), and smoked oysters escabeche served with wood oven toasted bread ($7). The brunch menu features items from a pan-fried egg sandwich with Serrano ham and avocado ($13), to a charcuterie flatbread with pan-fried egg, arugula and herbs ($14); and “street tacos” a la carte with a small assortment of sweeter entrees, like coconut griddle cakes ($11), to choose from.
Bizarre is right! Let’s see, Samuel-Stevens now oversee two locations of Nosh Euro Bistro, Snack, the transition of Bailey’s Prime Plus from steak joint to a chef-driven kitchen, and the addition of the lavish Aurora Room to BPP. My guess is Samuel and Stevens already have their paws on the menu at The Chesterfield. What? You hear there will be more Nosh Euro Bistros if this relationship lasts? Oh, glorious Dallas dining. Are you coming back to life or going crazy?
UPDATE: Snack will have it’s own valet parking.
Dallas-Based Zaccanelli Food Group Acquires Hofmann Sausage Company. Phil Romano Will Make the World Hot Dog Happy!
Are you ready for some hot dogs?
Yesterday, Merritt Martin of Eater Dallas, linked (ha!) to a story reporting Dallas-based Zaccanelli Food Group’s acquisition of the 133 year-old Hofmann Sausage Company in Syracuse, New York. She writes:
“Wait, what? Dallas-based Zaccanelli Food Group acquired Syracuse’s Hofmann Sausage Company in a multimillion dollar deal that means sausage expansion (well beyond Hot Haus rests, even into Texas groceries, gasp!) and, linking (ha) seemingly random investors the likes of Oneida Indian Nation, former Dallas Cowboys quarterback Roger Staubach and others.”
The “others” Martin omits are significant players that are anything but randomly linked. Like the “Zaccanelli” behind the group: Frank Zaccanelli, a native of Syracuse, is the former team president of the Dallas Mavericks. He was the minority owner to Ross Perot Jr.’s majority. Together, they sold the team to our (foodie) hero, Mark Cuban. Before that, Zaccanelli was a big wig at Perot Jr.’s company and they did some big deals like Alliance Airport and large real estate developments all over the state. (Huge overstatement in the interest of time.) Zaccanelli Food Group received majority funding from the powerful central-New York based Oneida Indian Nation Enterprises, a group dedicated to “re-investing in Central New York.” Other investors include former Syracuse Police Chief and two-time Syracuse University All-American basketball player Dennis DuVal, Syracuse University Head Basketball Coach Jim Boeheim, Dallas Cowboys quarterback and businessman Roger Staubach, and several high-profile restaurateurs and sports figures.
The until-now family-owned and operated Hofmann Sausage Company is a well-respected name in the restaurant business. They make some fine sausages and hot dogs. Call me crazy, but I swear I ate a Hofmann dog at Fuddrucker’s a century ago. Oh, that brings me to another “other” in this multi-million-dollar-dog deal: Phil Romano, the creator of Fuddruckers®, World’s Greatest Hamburgers®. Secret fact: Romano ALSO grew up in Syracuse eating Hofmann dogs. He loves them so much he sells them at Eatzi’s! Now he’s going to show the world just how much he hearts Hofmann dogs. Romano is in charge of creating a national chain of Hofmann’s World’s Greatest Hot Dogs restaurants. (I’m sure the ® is still at the attorney’s office.) I, for one, can’t wait. Hot dogs are the new hamburger.
Update: Hofmann products will be available in 64 Texas Albertson’s stores, including those in DFW, this weekend. That was fast.
Friday Fun: Cell Phone Camera Food Porn Video
George just sent me this video. It’s hysterical.
Dallas County Judge Clay Jenkins Owns Part of Mr. Mesero. Rules: “Best Steak in Town!”
Gromer Jeffers Jr, a reporter for the Trail Blazers Blog at the Dallas Morning News, states the facts:
1. Dallas County Judge Clay Jenkins is in the restaurant business. He owns a small stake in Mr. Mesero, an Uptown Mexican spot that opened late last year.
2. Dallas County Commissioner Elba Garcia, Jenkins’ Democratic ally on the commissioners court, also has an ownership stake, along with her husband, former state Rep. Domingo Garcia.
3. Jenkins said he was brought into the deal by Mico Rodriguez, who gave Dallas the popular Mi Cocina restaurants.
Nothing wrong with that. Gromer goes on to quote said judge: “We’ve got the best steak dish in town,” Jenkins boasted.
Whoa, judge! That is quite a ruling. Then Gromer points out: DMN dining diva, Leslie Brenner, gave the joint one star. If I were Gromer or Rodriguez, I would demand a retrial. I don’t know about the steak, but the food I’ve eaten at Mr. Mesero is four-star. Whoops, I don’t do stars. Therefore, I call on a jury of my peers.
New Hot Dog Restaurant: Bite the Weenie in North Richland Hills
Hooray for hot dogs! One Mr. Ludwig Sawicki is almost ready to open his new hot dog restaurant, Bite the Weenie. “We are making at least 20 variations and styles of hot dogs and sausage sandwiches,” Sawicki said. “We should be ready to go next week.” Sawicki moved to Dallas from Chicago almost 15 years ago and “has been craving hot dogs since then.” Sawicki spent many years working in restaurants before a career in the firearms business. He’s pretty dang excited about his new hot dog store and hopes to populate Dallas with more locations. So far, the menu includes classic Chicago and New York-style dogs. Other cities with dogs include Pittsburgh, Atlanta, Tokyo, and Vera Cruz. There is a Saigon Dog and a foie gras dog. Here is the working menu. 9143 Boulevard 26, Suite 650. Richland Hills. 817-514-2313.
Old Smith and Wollensky in North Dallas to Become Pappasito’s Cantina?
That is what Mike “Quick Draw” Hiller is reporting. The green and white building on the North Dallas Tollroad, just north of Frankfort, closed over five years ago. I can’t imagine the condition of the interior. Wonder if they are going to tear it down and start over. I’d watch that wrecking party. That place is ugly from the front.
Book Your Valentine’s Day Dinner In Dallas
Good luck to you, dear sir or madam, if you haven’t already made your Valentine’s Day reservation. Life might really suck tomorrow. Luckily, I’ve updated this fabulous list of 65+ restaurants for procrastinators like yourself who are the future leaders of tomorrow. Check out this complete listing with phone numbers, addresses, and menus all included.
Mind Your Head: Incoming Taco Restaurant, Taco Republic, in Richardson
Ron Guest, the nice man who gave us Café San Miguel on Henderson Ave. (R.I.P.), is back in business in Richardson. Natch Teresa “GubbShoe” Gubbins is all over the story like truffle oil on fries. Gubbshoe writes Guest’s new spot, Taco Republic, is “an intriguing new spin on gringo tacos.” Expect catfish tacos, “smoky brisket with chipotle barbecue sauce topped with fried onion rings,” and other “whimsical” tacos. Always on alert for the underdog vegetarian diner, Gubbshoe assures us all they don’t have to worry. Quotes and more details here. Taco Republic in located in the space formerly known as La Paloma at Central and Spring Valley. (Next up: Taco Republican. Now, there’s a concept.)
BBQ Snob Reports: Fancy Smoked Brisket in Dallas
Brisket sandwich at Jack Daniel's Saloon. Photo by Daniel Vaughn.
Slow-cooked brisket (sometimes “advertised” on menus as “smoked”) is trending in Dallas along with sweet potato tots and green chilies on anything. Last week the self-proclaimed BBQ Snob, Daniel Vaughn, policed a few fancy restaurants which claim to serve “smoked brisket.” He covers Texas Spice at the new Omni Convention Center, Jack Daniel’s Saloon, Holy Grail Pub, Torchy’s Taco, and the unpleasantly named Asador in the Renaissance Hotel. As usual, it’s a great read.
Top Twelve Bites I Put in My Mouth in 2011
Mi Dia: The best bite I put in my mouth in 2011.
There’s a common sentiment among restaurant critics: We have to eat a lot of poor quality and mediocre food before we taste something memorable. But, oh baby, when that over-the-top bite hits your mouth, you know you’ve found it. Something about the drink, dish, or dessert pushes it above the hundreds of thousands of other bites you’ve taken over the year.
The following items rocked my senses in 2011. In no particular order, and off the top of my head, they are:
- Italian “English” muffins at Eatzi’s. (Extra points for the McCutcheon’s preserves.)
- The Scarf Dancer cocktail at Marquee Grill and Bar.
- Fried avocados at The Commissary.
- Ox eyes stacked enchiladas at Mi Dia From Scratch. (Blue corn tortillas, beef, cheese, and onion enchiladas, topped with New Mexico red & green chile sauces, crema & fried eggs. (The best bite of the year.)
- Lemon cake at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse.
- Steamed swordfish with a salad of fresh summer greens at Lucia.
- The salad of chopped iceberg lettuce, diced tomatoes, crumbled blue cheese, avocado, and crispy prosciutto at Maggiano’s. (A good chopped salad is hard to find.)
- A double-double animal-style burger at In-N-Out Burger. However, the fries are forgettable.
- I got straight past the pizza and Cane Rosso and dive face first into a Cuban sandwich: a magnificent mess of tender Berkshire pork shoulder braised with beer and onions; layered with prosciutto, baby Swiss cheese, and horseradish pickles; and piled on puffy, hot bread spread with spicy mustard and Calabrian chile aioli.
- The green curry chicken served in an iron pot at Malai Kitchen.
- The charcuterie plate at The Grape.
- The slow-cooked oxtail scented with hoja santa and served with a cob of roasted corn and masa dumplings at Mesa.
Most Pleasant Meal of the Year: Dinner at Lavendou. Sometimes the taste of the food is elevated by the overall dining experience. Usually it happens spontaneously. One cold, rainy evening I went to dinner at Lavendou with two dear friends. The dining room was crowded and festive, but not loud. The service was friendly, but not in-your-face. The food was delicious and the French wine stimulated our conversation for hours. We left full of more than food. We shared a meal that was more than just a sum of its parts on a cold, rainy Monday night.
Bits & Bites: Things to Do and Chew in Dallas
Sigel’s Addison. Saturday, December 10 from 11AM to 3PM. Sigel’s Cheesemonger Teresa McGee and Brazos Valley Cheesmaker Marc Kuehl will be at Sigel’s-Addison to taste Marc’s award winning raw-milk cheeses. More below.
Slow Food Dallas and North Haven Gardens. This very cool partnership will present a series of classes for novices and experienced gardeners. Mark you calendars. Here’s the linky dink.
Urban Acres. Holiday Market 2011. Need creative gift ideas? Or just want something fun to do with friends and family this weekend? Please join us this Saturday, December 10th for a Holiday Artisan Marketplace at Urban Acres! We’ve invited our favorite local craft and food artisans to share their goods in our fun, community-based setting. Each artist will showcase handcrafted artwork or artisanal foods that we just know our Urban Acres friends will appreciate! Check out the vendors here!
Smoke Camp at Lockhart Smokehouse. Smoke like a pro after “Smoke Camp.” The pitmasters at Lockhart Smokehouse will share some trade secrets such as: choosing the right meat, dry rub vs. wet rub practices, smoking techniques, proper trimming and carving, plus the art of “Burnt Ends.” Class includes dinner, cold beer, and a t-shirt. “Smoke Camp” will be held Tuesday, January 17 from 6:30-8-30pm. Cost $75. Space is limited, so call us to make your reservation early. 214-944-5521.
White Rock Market. The 3rd Annual Holiday Market takes place on Saturday, December 10 from 9AM to 3PM at Green Spot Market in East Dallas. (702 N. Buckner Blvd. 2140797-4989) Music, local food and handicraft vendors galore. It’s free. Venodors listed below.
Nosh. Black Winter Truffles from Perigord are now at NOSH. Fresh Capelini or Risotto with shaved Black Winter Truffles $25!
Details. (more…)
Restaurant Update: Off-Site Kitchen by Nick Badovinus
Off-Site Kitchen: These goodies will be available for consumption by "the end of this year."
Well folks, it has been a year since Nick Badovinus leased the former Danny’s Chicken spot at Wycliff and Irving Blvd. for Off-Site Kitchen, a mostly take-out spot featuring “light industrial food” inspired by “what line cooks eat.” Basically the menu is simple sandwiches, breakfast burritos, quality roasted meats by the pound.
Badovinus went silent for a long time. In September I dropped by Off-Site Kitchen to see WTF was up. Badovinus is a tough dude to find when he doesn’t want to be found. But there he was, deep in R&D, curing sausage, flipping burgers, trying out different meat combinations for sandwiches.
This morning, I called Badovinus for an update. As Badovinus talked about the opening date, menu, and concept, I enjoyed listening to him spin off on how the dynamic of opening this restaurant changed as it came to life. It’s almost trite to say that many entrepreneurs start with a grand design and find that once their plan goes from paper to brick and mortar, some details have to change. However, one thing I’ve learned over the years is this: those who allow the on-the-fly changes to overwhelm their original vision rarely succeed. Staying the course can be the difference between success and failure. And what Badovinus has already discovered about his little soon-to-open Off-Site Kitchen is unique and could prove to be a model for others.
Jump for it. (more…)
Anthony Bourdain Kicks Some Serious Sass in Dallas
Anthony Bourdain on stage at the Majestic Theater in Dallas. (photo by Elizabeth Lavin)
Last night, Anthony Bourdain fans packed the Majestic Theater. Baseball be damned, the worshipers of All-Things-Anthony showed up to lay themselves at the cowboy-booted feet of their hero.
Tony walked onto the stage at 8:10 and greeted the audience: “I am a whore. I am in every way compromised, jaded, bought and paid for, including my nice f—ing jacket.”
For the next hour and 45 minutes, the crowd hung on his every word. He was loose, casual, at ease, good-natured, straight forward, no bull. He was exactly the guy you see on TV, except, in person, you could see just how fine he wears boot-cut jeans.
After the show, we got to hang out with Tony and watch him sign books and greet his fans. Hundreds of folks bought books and stood in line to get his autograph. He walked into the VIP room and he very calmly said, “Look, I’m here and I’m not leaving until every book is signed, every picture is taken. I’m not in a hurry, so grab some food, have a drink, relax.”
I plan to write a longer report, but my day job calls. In the meantime, I’ll post the pictures that Tony most graciously allowed our photographer, Elizabeth Lavin, to shoot. Oh, and John “Jimmy Sears” Tesar was there. I mean everywhere. If you notice him in every shot, it is because he tried to get in every shot. At one point I thought he was going to start signing copies of Bourdain’s Medium Raw. He could have. That’s how he serves his burgers.
On to the show.
Bar 828–A Fleeting Speakeasy in Oak Cliff
Changing the mural at Bar 828.
Arti Sharma, D Magazine intern and a grant writer for Promise House the nonprofit that receives a portion of the proceeds from Bar 828, visited the popular pop-up bar last weekend and files this report.
Feel free to play some theme music.
Driving along the 800 block on the west side Davis Street, you may notice something particularly peculiar about the venue that sits on lot 828. At first glance, you will see a tattered building that shells what may have been a forgotten afterthought, abandoned in the midst of what perhaps was meant to be an idea. You may not further heed its quaintness, and will write it off as an empty nest. But you see, inside an oyster, sometimes there is a pearl. And inside 828, is something just as precious and rare: Bar 828.
Pretty pictures of pretty pop-up bar below.
CBS Most Valuable Blogger Winners Announced
Congratulations Feastcraft for gathering the most votes and to Daniel Vaughn’s Full Custom Gospel BBQ for winning Editor’s Pick. All of the winners are here.
Tesar Teaser: The Most Hated Chef in Dallas to Throw Hater’s Party
The man who loves to be hated. (Photography by Maxine Helfman)
Okay Haters, don’t blame me. I’m playing Phidippides in this decision-making process. The physical September issue of D Magazine will be in the mailboxes of subscribers today and on newsstands tomorrow. Most of the content is now online. Here is a link to a portion of “The Most Hated Chef in Dallas” story about John Tesar, but if you want to read the full story you have to get your hands on a magazine. (Perhaps you can schedule that doctor’s appointment you’ve put off.)
I hear through the TextVine that chef Tesar is organizing a Hater’s Party next Monday night outside of The Commissary at One Arts Plaza. He promised to send details but so far he texts that he will be giving away free tacos and wine to anyone who shows up with a copy of the September issue of D Magazine. (This is his promotion, not ours.) Latest text: “The Camarena taco truck with a special menu and free tap wine and some beer. It’s official. Monday 7-9PM. Haters Party.”
Hot Links: Mike Hiller Sez Julian Barsotti is Opening Another Restaurant
Christopher “Grant Achatz” Wynn reports that Mike Hiller reports that Julian Barsotti is opening a new restaurant called Carbone’s Fine Food and Wine in the former Talbot’s spot at the corner of Wycliff and Oak Lawn. There will be roasting and grilling of meats and artisinal Italian-inspired treats. Sounds like the concept behind SimonBarsotti the place Julian once planned with Tristan Simon. Hiller sez Carbone’s is scheduled to open in January 2012.
Campo Modern Country Bistro to Open in Oak Cliff
Miguel Vicéns and John Paul Valverde owners of Coevál Studio, a firm that recently designed and built two Mexican restaurants in Fort Worth, is taking over the former La Carreta Argentine space on North Beckley in Oak Cliff. They will rework the space and open it as Campo Modern Country Bistro. This news comes from Steven Doyle of CraveDFW. He sends a hot link and a note:
I interviewed a design group that does restaurants and found out that Matt is their consulting chef and opening soon in Oak Cliff. This isn’t his main restaurant that will open most likely first quarter 2012, but one he will consult on and have a presence indefinitely.
Matt is Matt McCallister. You know Matt. The execuchef at Stephan Pyles left his high profile gig to “Play” in kitchens around the world. Currently he is popping up in restaurants around town, like Café Momentum. He’s got a chef’s fantasy job. If you’re not his Facebook friend, you are one uninformed Dallas diner.
SideDish is Ready for KRLD Restaurant Week 2011
Reader Reviews for KRLD Restaurant Week start next Tuesday!
Dishers! It’s that time of the year: KRLD Restaurant year month Week. The event kicks off on Monday, August 15 and beginning Tuesday, August 16, we will have a daily post dedicated to your reviews of the restaurants you sample during RW. We know a lot of chefs will be cooking their butts off for you and many servers will do double shifts. We ask you to send in the names of servers who treated you to over-the-top service and we will honor them on SideDish. (Take their picture!)
Last year KRLD Restaurant Week raised $605,500 for its supporting partners — the North Texas Food Bank (NTFB) in Dallas and Lena Pope Home in Fort Worth — with more than 100,000 prix fixe dinners served in 138 restaurants across Collin, Dallas, Denton and Tarrant County.
In case you were born yesterday:
KRLD Restaurant Week presented by Central Market, which showcases North Texas’ thriving culinary scene, features tasty three-course prix fixe dinner combinations priced at only $35/person (tax, tip and drinks billed separately). What’s more, consumer patronage helps support local fine dining establishments and two great charity partners. For every prix fixe meal purchased, participating restaurants will make a $7.00 donation to either the North Texas Food Bank in Dallas or Lena Pope Home in Fort Worth. Reservations are required, and diners should specify “KRLD Restaurant Week” when booking.
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SideDish is a food-related discussion among editors at D Magazine about the Dallas-Fort Worth dining scene -- everything from good meals to bad service, kitchen gossip to restaurant news, chefs' secrets to culinary trends. Bon appetit.
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