Is it bad that when I first got a glimpse of David Schecter’s dead gator discovery on his Twitter yesterday, my brain processed the news in this exact progression?
1) There is no way I’m stepping foot in Trinity River. Ever. Not after that Mud Run participant died there, and especially not after this 11.5 gator swam in those waters.
2) How many pounds of gator nuggets can you make with this big ‘ole reptile?
Your guesses, please.

(clockwise from top) Chef Graham Dodds, oxtail ragout with crispy gnocchi, and a Scotch egg. (Photography by Kevin Marple)
This month Todd Johnson checks in with Graham Dodds, the newish executive chef at Central 214. His cooking is a far cry from his predecessor Blythe Beck. Have you tried the newish Central 214?
With his shaggy beard and dark painter’s cap, Graham Dodds looks out of place in Central 214, the restaurant he now helms at Hotel Palomar. It feels like a typical hotel restaurant—contrived modern decor, nondescript white leather banquettes, amber walls—so focus-grouped that it lacks any personality. And it’s not just the new chef’s appearance. Dodds’ culinary history is far too personal for such an impersonal space.
For the past three years, Dodds was the executive chef at Bolsa, the award-winning spot in the Bishop Arts District. He was in on the project from its inception, and his farm-to-fork approach—championing local and seasonal ingredients—was fresh at the time, not the marketing gimmick it has become. Dodds’ creations were simple, his flavors pure. Nothing was over-sauced or overwrought. Bolsa was an instant hit, and it established North Oak Cliff as a dining destination. D Magazine named it the 2009 restaurant of the year.
I bet Steven Doyle doesn’t even know about this!! I just happened to stumble across it on the CBS site. Looks like they are going to have a Most Valuable Blogger competition. I would never suggest who you should nominate but The Scott at Dallasfood.org has already made his sentiments known. This is going to be an interesting ride.
We sent a reporter to cover the most exciting news of the day but she mistakenly went to the wrong location. But Steven “Crave Me” Doyle was there. So was John Tesar. The Tesar is now making tacos for a taco truck supplied by Camarena Tequila. They float around the country and partner with local checks and hang out at local events. I don’t have any of the details like how can they give away free tequila but Doyle was there and he has the scoop of his career. Take it Craveman.
The Truck by The Tesar.
Cheese maven, Paula Lambert, sends word from the Great White North.
Dallas’ Mozzarella Company won four ribbons at the American Cheese Society Annual Competition last weekend in Montreal, Canada, more than any other Texas cheesemaker. They were one of a very select group of cheese companies to win three first place ribbons! This marks the 25th year that Mozzarella Company cheeses have been singled out for their excellence by the prestigious judges of the ACS. This year’s winners were: 1st place – Hoja Santa Goat Cheese; 1st place – Goat’s Milk Ricotta; 1st place – Pecan Praline Mascarpone; 3rd place – Queso Blanco with Chiles and Epazote
If you haven’t eaten at least two gallons of that Pecan Praline Mascarpone you haven’t lived. Jump for Lambert’s thrill of victory:
Tweeter up, Dishers! Tomorrow is the MLB All-Star Game. Don’t give a twit about the game? Me either! But Evan Grant, the Dallas Morning News Rangers beat writer and The Ticket contributor, and I are going to auction a special dinner for two to raise money for the family of Shannon Stone, the Ranger fan who died tragically on Thursday night. You will have a chance to bid on having dinner with Evan and me which is funnier and more interesting than any reality TV show.
Besides Happy Hour prices all night, there will be trivia games and prizes. Rangers swag and baseball tickets, and FREE garlic fries…Check it out. It’s all happening at Gordon Biersch in the Shops at Park Lane. Hope to see you there. Deets.
You have to get up pretty early in the morning (or stay up all night) to beat SuperChef follower Steven Doyle to the table of a new restaurant. Last night, he was a guest at a super secret soft opening dinner at RedFork. Give his report on cravedfw a nice SideDish Bump.
A loyal Disher (h/t DG) sends a link to a recent newsletter by Dr. Dirt. His parents know him as Howard Garrett, the multi-media writer/talker of all things growing. Anywhoo, Dr. Dirt has a quick guide to identifying genetically modified food in the grocery store. So if you’d like a little less Monsanto in your morning meal, check this out.
Many consumers don’t realize that the FDA does not require genetically modified food to be labeled. That’s because the FDA has decided that you don’t care if the tomato you are eating has been cross bred with frog genes to render the tomato more resistant to cold weather. Some consumers may not be concerned with eating “Franken Food”, but for those who are, here is how to determine if the fruits and vegetables you’re buying are (GM) genetically modified.
For conventionally grown fruit (grown with chemicals inputs), the PLU code on the sticker consists of four numbers. Organically grown fruit has a five-numeral PLU prefaced by the number 9. Genetically engineered (GM) fruit has a five-numeral PLU prefaced by the number 8. Example: A conventionally grown banana would be 4011. An organically grown banana would be 94011. A genetically engineered banana would be 84011.
Dr. Dirt has more guidelines for steering clear of GM foods in your diet. Click here. If you have questions on this newsletter or any other topic, check his radio show schedule. Or follow him on Twitter or Facebook.
They’ve been Dirked! Dallas is about to host a few fans from Miami Heat fans. Shall we tell them where to go eat?
My mother grew up in a small town outside of Archer City, Texas. A couple of nights a week she watched her mother go out in the back yard, grab one of the many chickens running around the yard and snap its neck. A couple hours later the former “pet’ was devoured for dinner. It wasn’t a trend; it was how they lived.
Now having a groovy chicken coop in your backyard or on a patio in New York is trendy. The gals over on the D Home blog have the scoop on the “must have” coop. If you want to get your backyard bird party started, the folks at Northaven Gardens have the knowledge and supplies. I’d rather have a goat.
Last night I stopped by Central Market on Lovers to check out the food samplings at Passport Espana! The store is very festive and there are goodies galore. It really made me want to get on a plane and eat my way across Spain.
Hark! This morning, an email with the subject line: Check out this trip to Spain.
Turns out the festivities at Central Market has inspired A Taste of Spain, a boutique travel agency specializing in private, authentic culinary tours of Spain, to create a special tour for CM customers. It’s called the Ultimate Foodie Tour of Spain and it takes place September 11-18, 2011. Check out the full itinerary. Here are some highlights.
From hands-on cooking classes to VIP wine tours to avant-garde meals in Michelin-starred restaurants, A Taste of Spain has created a spectacular itinerary with the participation of Spain’s best chefs, food purveyors, and wineries throughout Madrid, Rioja, Basque Country, and Catalonia. Among the highlights: dinner at the restaurants of Paco Roncero and Quim Marqués (pictured is coca de sardines from his Suquet de l’Armirall), two of the participating chefs during Passport Spain; a private visit to Caves Naveran to taste and learn the process of Cava, the Catalan sparkling wine; and lunch at a private sociedad gastronómica.
I am not getting paid for writing this or taking any freebies but I’m just saying, I am going on this trip. Anyone care to join me? Book your reservation. Questions? Email culinary@atasteofspain.com.
I have mixed feelings about Ruth Reichl. For many years I devoured everything she wrote. After reading her first couple books, I grew a little weary of her style. Her writing is florid like perfume. Sometimes she says so much with just a spritz; other times her words overwhelm your senses.
However, she has been a talented, successful, and authoritative voice to my generation of eaters and writers. When I got a chance to sit down with Ms. Reichl at a conference in Minneapolis, oh about ten years ago, I was ready to bond.
Didn’t happen. She was rude. She never looked me in the eye. She didn’t ask me one thing about myself or Dallas. (Wouldn’t a national food magazine editor be curious about the dining scene in a major US city?) She was deep into her job as Queen of Gourmet and she didn’t want to talk about food criticism. She was “past that.”
Well, goody for her. Gourmet died and Ruth rose above the rubble. She’s had a series of glam jobs on TV, she wrote books, and is the executive producer of Garlic and Sapphires, a film based on her memoirs. And she has great hair (which I’m sure she hates). My disappointment in Reichl has morphed into mind-numbing mixture of jealousy and resentment. Especially when it comes to her hair.
Today, cue Elton John, Ruth Reichl is back. She is the editorial advisor to Gilt Taste, an online magazine/catalog (webazinelog?) featuring fine writing, artisanal products, and lots of Ruth. Does she get on your nerves or do you love her flowery prose (and The Bridges of Madison County)? But here’s the good news.
With our ferocious invasion of the In-N-Out’s double-doubles under control, we turn to face our next assault: conjugated linoleic acid from Murray’s Cheese on Bleecker Street in New York City. No, we don’t need any rope, conjugated linoleic acid is a good thing. It is one of the healthy fats (love it!) found in cheese. There are many New Yorkers who think Murray’s Cheese shop is the best in New York. And, like so many New York businesses, Murray’s had humble ethnic start. From their website:
“Murray Greenberg was a Jewish Spanish civil war veteran and communist who opened a wholesale butter and egg shop a few doors up Cornelia street in 1940. The old timers tell me [current owner Rob Kaufelt] that even though he was an old leftie, he was still a street smart capitalist who used to buy cheese cheap and trim it and sell it. In the 70’s he sold the shop to his clerk Louis Tudda, an Italian immigrant from Calabria.” Grab a Kleenex and continue here. (I’d cast Dustin Hoffman as Murray and Helen Mirren as Paula Lambert in the movie War of the Cheeses.)
Fast forward to May 17, 2011. Murray’s has two locations in New York where they sell a gazillion cheeses. They have a books, cured meat, crackers, dried fruit and nuts, and an olive and antipasto bar. Phew! And a serious online shopping site. However, you won’t need to order Murray’s cheese if you like Murray’s cheese because Murray’s cheese has made a deal with Kroger and soon their cheese will spread across North Texas. (They are already in Houston. What else would you expect from a communist cheese maker? No emails please.) It looks like a Kroger store in Irving (June-ish, not sure which location) will be the first outpost for Murray’s Cheese shop. I say shop because they are building little areas inside each Kroger to mimic the interior of the Greenwich Village store. (Twinwillow, I see a job opportunity in your future.) After that, it’s Katy bar the door– I hear the whole Upper East Side is relocating Frisco.
UPPITY DATE:
The first three shops to open in Dallas-Fort Worth are at the following Kroger locations:
-Irving 7505 N. MacArthur Blvd. Irving, TX 75063 (Opening Date: 5/25/11)
-Dallas 5665 E. Mockingbird Dallas, TX 75206 (Opening Date: 6/15/11)
-Fort Worth 3300 Texas Sage Trail Fort Worth, TX 76177 (Opening Date: 7/6/11)
More below. (more…)
Save the date: On Wednesday, October 19, Sharon Hage will be the guest chef for Outstanding in the Field’s longtable dinner that will take place at Latte Da Dairy in Flower Mound. There will be food, wine, and goats. Here is a report from the last event. Here’s how to reserve your place for the next.
What Would Happen if Women Opened Restaurants With Male Body Parts as Themes
‘Scuse me while I saddle up my high horse. Am I the only woman who is concerned about the sudden surge in Breastaurants. I mean really 35 additional Twin Peaks? A bar opening in downtown called The Spread Eagle? Seriously boys? How would you like to take your daughter into one of the restaurant’s the gals in our office just conceptualized. We call them Peteries.
Ladies, the floor is open.