Get down and mushroom-y with Tom Spicer.

Bring your own wine to Spiceman’s Absolutely Unusual Culinary Extravaganza. For those of you still using Morton’s salt, Spiceman is Tom Spicer, forager and procurer of all-things-produce. His wonderfully offbeat shop, Spiceman’s FM 1410, is next to Jimmy’s Food Store and Urbano Café in East Dallas. This Saturday (November 21) Spiceman will teach a few cooking classes. Festivities kick off at 10:30 a.m. with roux making and continue with wild mushroom paella cooked by The Spiceman over a bonfire and duck and Andouille gumbo by David Anthony. Spiceman says,  “Come dine, bring yo wine and loose yo mind at Spiceman’s Gumbo ‘n da Garden!” Wild mushrooms? Oh, yes. 1410-B Fitzhugh. 214-954-7974.
Jump for Spiceman’s current inventory.

We also have many “garden salads” to harvest for you such as:

Pea Tendrils, Sunflower Sprouts, Micro Cilantro, Petite Asian Mustards and French lettuces,  Nasturtium leaves, red veined Sorrel (aka in some places as “Hearts of fire”)

Baby Soul Greens ~ Red Kale, Curley Mustards, Baby Spinach, Petite Red Cabbage and Buck Wheat leaves with an “Otay Panky” vinaigrette.

Southern Field Greens ~ Baby Escarole, Red  veined Sorrel, Red and Green Romaine as well as Lollo Rossa red leaf lettuce.

Asian Lolita Greens ~ Baby Mizuna, Red Mustards, Tatsoi, Malabar Spinach, Nasturtium leaves, pepper cress and more.

Local, Organic produce on hand:

Sunchokes retail @ $6# wholesale at $17.50/5#

Wild and Cultivated Exotic ’shrooms…pitch til ya win @ $10/8oz the choice is yours (or ours), Chanterelles, Porcinni, Hedge Hogs, Baby Shiitake, Shimejii, Piopinni, Burgundy Chanterelles aka Pigs Ears, King Oyster, Chicken O Woods, Domestic Black Trumpets …there, that’s a snap shot of what I see right this second…maybe more or less but always fresh….

Tons of lettuces and fresh herbs with locally grown, certified organic Nappa Cabbage, Braising Greens and Arugula, Elephant Garlic, Smoked and pickled red jalapenos

Louisiana Citrus is on the way in time for Thanksgiving…Satsumas, Tangeloes, Meyer Lemons, Kumquats. We’ll have limited availability of stem and leaf for fruit amenity baskets so please order in advance @ $4#

Photo by Kevin Demaria.

Kevin Demaria, the former associate art director of Gourmet, captured the last days at the magazine with this photo essay. (Gourmet to Go?) It makes me want to kiss my keyboard. I still can’t believe Gourmet is gone. Food writing is in transition and it’s getting scary.

Our organization Friendship Force of Dallas is going on an exchange trip to Turkey next year.  We are looking for a Turkish restaurant that can accommodate a group of 50-60 people for a meeting next July.  Can you provide me with a list of restaurants in the Dallas area that have a Turkish ethnic atmosphere and food?  I appreciate any assistance you can provide.

Hit it and get it.

What kind of restaurant would Major Tony Nelson and Jeannie do in Dallas?

I was having a conversation with a “highly educated” person the other night and he said, “Dallas really needs a great burger place.” I was stunned. When I asked him what places he liked, he reeled off spots—Chips, Goff’s, Neighborhood Services—that were in his neighborhood. I asked him if he ever went out of his way to discover or try new places and he admitted that he didn’t really. He has now been downgraded to “somewhat intelligent.”  I mean talk about closed minded. (They don’t even melt the cheese at Goff’s.)

The inside-the-loop-outside-the-loop foodie argument drives me nuts. There is great food all over this area if you are willing to drive. But if you had one restaurant wish, what would you like to see in Dallas? I know what I want, it’s a fleet of these, STAT. Your turn.

Let me give you an example what happens here at D headquarters on a regular basis. Let’s say a box of cupcakes, a package of chocolate, or bag of food samples arrives with a note from the store owner or publicist. Everyone in the office goes bonkers and whatever is delivered disappears in about 2 seconds. If we don’t post anything on SideDish, I generally receive a “follow-up” note like this:

Hi Nancy, I just wanted to follow up on the “Insert Name” “Insert Item” that we sent last week from “Insert Company” and get your thoughts/feedback on the new flavors. We think it would make an interesting post on SideDish or an article for your magazine. We’d love to hear what you thought of them and see if they might be a fit for an upcoming story or mention. “Insert Company” will be expanding and owner “Insert Name” is hoping to open more locations soon.  We appreciate any comments you have!

If someone on the SideDish staff decides to write about the product, they now have to mention the fact that the food was not paid for by D Magazine. If we don’t, we violate the Federal Trade Commission Act and could receive a fine.

At the risk of calling in the food police, I will say that we have always run a tight ship around here. We’ve always paid for food we review and I do not attend media dinners or accept complimentary dinners. We have sent a copy of the FTC guidelines to our attorney to make sure we comply with all of the rules.

But here is one rub—I’ve already heard that some bloggers and indie food writers are finding ways to get around the rules by posting one small disclaimer somewhere on their webpage and not in the copy of the item. So readers beware. Ask questions. It’s a jungle out there.

I hate to say that I’m smart, but I receive a lot of e-mails from people trying to cyber-bash a restaurant. Usually I can tell if the note comes from someone on the inside or a disgruntled employee—they tend to know too much and the note is usually a personal attack and not a general complaint about an experience.

So, I ask you. I view this space as an open forum for discussion. Do I post anonymous complaints? Do I e-mail them back and say “I will post your complaint if you give me your real name?” Or do I hit delete? It’s your space. Define it.

Dining critics at work.

Yesterday l linked to a post by chef Brian Luscher on former DMN dining critic Mike Hiller’s website Escapehatchdallas.com. While most of the people who left comments agreed with Luscher, I received several e-mails from “professionals” who were a bit concerned about the line “Taking scalps just because you have a hatchet isn’t the same as writing a fair review.” I wrote to both Hiller and Luscher and asked them to clarify and Hiller responded in the comments section. He writes:

“It seems to me Luscher was directing his comments primarily at those bloggers and casual Web commenters who don’t feel any obligation to present fair, comprehensive reviews.” And on his site he writes“…the scalp/hatchet comment, well, that was added for spice in the final edit and has since been removed.”

Couple of questions. If Luscher was directing his comments primarily at bloggers, why does the opening sentence contain “professional restaurant critics and amateur online reviewers”? Also, Hiller admits to adding what I feel is a pretty provocative line (scalp/hatchet) to post with Luscher’s byline. Methinks he put the restaurant owner in a hot seat.  And putting words he didn’t say in his mouth. Foul or fair? Hit it.

The Dallas Institute’s “Au Courant” membership group (45 years and under) will conduct the first in a series highlighting the global bounty of our local scene. First up: the French, who do many things, including art, architecture, literature, fashion, the Paris Metro, technology, and of course food and wine.

Accompanied by rich visual images, Dr. Elizabeth New of “French Affaires” will discuss various facets of French food, culture, and what makes French cuisine unique. Benjamin Calais of Calais Winery in the Deep Ellum neighborhood will highlight the French culture of wine and talk about his wine offerings here in Dallas. We’ll top off the evening with a wine and cheese tasting. Your parting souvenir will be a resource list of authentic French food and wine experiences in the Dallas area so you can continue the “Local-Global” theme after our French soiree at The Dallas Institute! 6:00-7:30 p.m., Monday, Oct. 19. Admission: Members $25; Nonmembers $35; Member Teachers $10. RSVP by calling Caitlin Hinton at 214 981-8822 or by registering online. The Dallas Institute of Humanities and Culture is located at 2719 Routh St., Dallas, 75201.

Akira Inoue, the master of Teiichi Sakurai (chef /owner of Tei-An) will be demonstrating how to make soba-buckwheat noodles at Tei-An.

Mr. Inoue teaches the art of making soba at Tsukiji Soba Academy, the school he founded in Tokyo. He will travel to New York-Dallas-Los Angeles to introduce the art of making soba.

Mr. Inoue will make “Shin Soba” or “fresh soba”, which is made with flour from newly harvested buckwheat. Shin Soba is a rare treat as it’s available only twice a year, and highly prized by the Japanese for its certain aroma and sweetness.

Mr. Inoue would like to show you the art of making soba.

The demonstration will take place on Tuesday, October 20th at 7:00 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. at Tei-An.  You can order Shin Soba hot or cold from the menu after the demonstration.

Please join us to witness a great master at his craft.

For reservations or more information, please call 214-220-2828 or e-mail teian@tx.rr.com

I am in desperate need of some suggestions for a birthday dinner on Saturday and was hoping you could help. Needs to be a fun atmosphere, and good food. Preferably something unique.

UPDATE: I just read this on Twitter: ruthreichl Thank you all SO much for this outpouring of support. It means a lot. Sorry not to be posting now, but I’m packing. We’re all stunned, sad.16 minutes ago . (NN)

Janet and Terry Kafka in Aspen last summer.

This just in from Andrew Chalk:

Thanks to Kirk for the heads-up to this article from the El Paso Times. Basque Restaurant Taberna del Alabardero is preparing a multi-course meal at the Coronado County Club in El Paso consisting of specialties from the Basque region of Spain. Examples include a typical Taberna pincho (Basque version of tapa): bacalao brandade (salt dried cod puree, olive oil, milk and/or cream, spices, herbs, etc.) stuffed in thinly sliced rolled zucchini slices topped with Romesco sauce (a mixture of tomatoes, peppers, onion, garlic, almonds or hazelnuts and olive oil) not to mention Jamon Iberico (Iberian ham).

Perhaps most intriguing is the reason a famous Basque Taberna is doing a meal in El Paso. It was arranged by the Honorary Consul General of Spain. Now Dallas doesn’t have a Spanish Consul General, but Google points to  The Honorable Janet Pollman Kafka as an Honorary Consul of Spain.  Any chance of getting her to contact Taberna del Alabardero and tell them Dallas would fill up their Basque meal as well (probably for many nights)?

Hey Janet, old buddy. I smell a SideDish Supper Club waiting to happen. Call me, let’s talk.

Mary Brown Malouf at my high school graduation.

I’ve been at my post here at D Magazine for 13 years. Sometime I wonder how many calories I have eaten; other times I wonder how many of those calories were actually worth ingesting. Restaurant reviewers eat more low-to-medium quality food than spectacular meals.

Anywhoo, in the post below, I mentioned Michael Hiller. He used to be a critic at the DMN. Over the years, I’ve seen lots of “critics” come and go. Anyone remember Betty Cook? Suzanne Hough (R.I.P)? Dave Faries? (Oh, he’s still here.) Or Mary Brown Malouf?

Mary was a real biyatch when she wrote dining reviews for the Dallas Observer. When she came to work at D in the late 90s, we became good friends. But Mary ditched D and Dallas and she’s now the Food and Travel editor at Salt Lake City Magazine. I just looked on their site and found a classic Mary Brown Malouf rant.  Gosh, I’m all nostalgic. Call me, Bill.

How about you? Who do you miss? Who do you love? Who do you hate?

The City of Dallas Health Department has decided that the Celebration Farmers Market is in violation of certain codes. Celebration was told on 2 previous occasions that we could operate a Farmers Market in our parking lot under our existing permits. We strongly believe that all food handling practices and food products at the Farmers Market were perfectly safe. We have complied strictly with all Health Department codes for 38 years and take our responsibility to public health VERY SERIOUSLY.

We appreciate the warm welcome and support that you’ve provided our Saturday Farmers Market. We believe that what we along with our wonderful vendors are offering is a safe, fun and convenient setting for you to purchase healthy, delicious, local produce and other products.

We are going to approach the Dallas City Council to explore how the code can be modified to allow the Celebration Farmers Markets and others like us to provide a valuable service to the citizens of Dallas while protecting the public health.

I have contacted Ed and asked him for instructions on how you can sign the petition he plans to take to the Dallas City Council. Stay tuned. (OMG, I can hear Amy Severson already.)

Samar’s creators paid huge attention to design. The following video is a tour of the restaurant with Stephan Pyles. (Pardon the sound; the place was packed.)

We sent Andrew Chalk to cover the semi-soft opening of Samar by Stephan Pyles. Here is his report. You want chandeliers? Stephan Pyles bought some chandeliers for Samar. Go Andrew:

Samar by Stephan Pyles held its invite-only preview party on Saturday and, judging by the turnout, reservations to this new eatery are going to be hard to get. (The official opening day is still TBD but planned for “early October.”)

Saturday, close to 1,000 of Stephan’s closest friends piled into the restaurant, the patio, and a specially rented spillover area. Despite the crowd, the staff coped with the rush like a well-oiled machine. Even the periodic guest-dropping-a-glass-in-a-crowded-bar problem was immediately met with a staffer who cordoned off the area while another cleaned it clean up. The kitchen and wait staff dispatched appetizers with that frictionless regularity which makes you wonder if the servers aren’t on roller skates.

The centerpiece of any restaurant is the food. Pyles installed Vijay Sadhu, formerly of Bukhara Grille and Clay Pit, as head chef because he wanted Indian cuisine to be one of the inspirations at Samar.The other influences on the menu come from Spain and the area loosely defined as the Eastern Mediterranean (mainly Lebanon, Syria, and Turkey). Here is chef Sadhu describing some of the appetizers.

Chef Sadhu showed the crowd his ambitious stuff—all of the food was prepared perfectly. As he showed at his earlier positions, Vijay Sadhu is an expert and combining flavors and bringing them out in his dishes. Here is a short list of what was served: Red Lentiles Kofte (Turkish), Kebbeh with Golden beets tzatziki sauce, Chicken kebab stuffed with spiced gound lamb served with Spice tomato jam and crispy okra, Saffron Paneer tikka with spiced vermicelli and cumin scented asparagus, Chocolate Samosa with rose jam, and Papadam cones stuffed with Mung sprouts

Guests were offered either a specially created martini that apparently involved pomegranate juice (and had a fruity approachability that made it deceptively easy to imbibe) or one of a number of respectable wines.This food, by the way, is wine-friendly.

Outside, the patio was put to good use. Belly dancers entertained the crowd that, coincidentally, became progressively less and less reserved.

Hookah pipes were available to complete one’s sense transportation from the corner of Ross and Olive to some exotic country.

Please don’t sue me for using your cover art.

I’m stuck at home in my little glass house. I see a few pebbles on the floor and I think I will toss them.

I just scanned through the Dallas Observer’s 2009 Best of Dallas® Food list. It reminds me of that Who song. What is it, Kirk? Something about the new boss and the old boss? YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH! Bomp, bomp, bomp. YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!

Dave Fairies, I have a quick question: Does the Observer repeat “Bests” if, when the next year rolls around, no one else  fills the category as “Better®?” (That’s mine, dude.)  This is a serious question and I ask it because I have to deal with the beast of ‘Bests” and understand the difficulty at uncovering them. So, Mr. Fairies, do you roll over “Bests” from year to year by moving them into different categories or because they are the “Best” of their original category? Let’s go through the list together and see. Jump with me. It’s not far.

Cindi’s New York Deli: 2008 Best Breakfast; 2009 Best Chicken and Dumplings

Fogo de Chao: 2008 Best Churrascaria; 2009 Best Meaty Experience

Yumi to Go: 2008 Best Home Delivery; 2009 Best Bird’s Eye View (seriously?)

Jimmy’s Food Store: 2008 Best Spicy Sausage Sandwich; 2009 Best Italian Grocery (me=guilty)

Royal Thai: 2008 Best Thai Restaurant; 2009 Best Thai Restaurant (Ding! Could answer my question)

Best Seafood: 2008 Fish City Grill; 2009 Dallas Seafood Market (seriously?)

Alligator Café: 2008 Best Cajun Restaurant; 2009 Best Cajun Restaurant (Ding! Ding! Could answer my question.)

Afghan Grill: 2008 Best Middle Eastern Restaurant; 2009 Best Middle Eastern Restaurant (Ding! Ding! Ding! That’s three which officially makes anything a Trend. One more match makes it Truth.)

Garden Café: 2008  Best Local Food Movement Restaurant; 2009 Best Homegrown Experience

Roti Grill: 2008 Best Fast-Casual Indian Restaurant; 2009 Best Indian Food (Yow. Zah.)

Mai’s Vietnamese Restaurant: 2008 Best Vietnamese Restaurant; 2009 Best Vietnamese Restaurant  DING, DING, DING! Ding! TRUTH!

Fair enough, Fairies!  I commend your consistency. I will now pick up my guitar and play.

(But Sprinkles? Really? That is sooo D Magazine.)

Back to business:

Maquire’s. Has a new “Chef’s Seasonal Tasting Menu.” Three courses for $30; four courses for $37. Upgrade to wine pairing is $40 or $49. Details below. 972.818.0068

TJ’s Seafood. They don’t want you to get bored with seafood so they have new recipes, ideas, and sauces and marinades.  Fish Taco Sauce – so many of you have come in making fish tacos we decided to get a great fish taco sauce.  Fish Tacos are a fun (and kid friendly) way to get the family eating healthy fish. Tilapia is great and cost effective. Honey & Jalapeno Grill Glaze – perfect on salmon, swordfish, sea bass or anything else on the grill. If you can’t stand the heat, get away from the grill….this one is a little spicy! Japanese-Style House Marinade – if you like the Citrus Wasabi & Honey Ginger House Marinades, you’ll love this one. Lots of soy, sesame oil, ginger and cilantro.  Justs marinate shrimp, scallops and tuna for 20-30 min before grill or saute.

Cibus Ristorante. Has Bocce in the Park brought to you by NorthPark Center and The Italian Club of Dallas. Sunday, September 27th from noon to 4pm in CenterPark at NorthPark. Join us for a fun-filled afternoon for the entire family. Learn to play Bocce Ball if you never have or join the pros from the Italian Club for a lively game. Cibus will be grilling in the garden as well as offering selections from their regular menu plus refreshing cocktails and specialty coffee drinks. 214-692-0001.

Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen. Will host first beer dinner with Rahr & Sons Brewery.
Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen will debut its first ever beer dinner hosted by world-renowned Rahr & Sons Brewery, Fort Worth’s German award-winning brewery. Melissa “Mel” Simmons, Rahr & Sons Brewery Representative, will introduce their most famous beers accompanied with Rathbun’s extraordinary plates. For the first time at Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen, guests will experience their very own “Oktoberfest” tradition in their seats. The dinner menu and beer pairings detailed below. Wednesday, September 30, 2009.

The 500, Inc.’s WineFest 2009. The 500, Inc. announces the spectacular 7th Annual WineFest featuring an exciting selection of wine and delicious cuisine from over 20 of the area’s top eateries, a large silent auction, live music and the pleasurable company of friends and family in the hundreds. WineFest 2009 will be held on Saturday, October 24 from 6:30pm – 10pm at the Cavanaugh Flight Museum in Addison.  Advance tickets are $35 per person before October 23 and may be purchased online at www.winefest500.com.  Tickets at the door cost $40.  Proceeds of the event benefit the beneficiaries of The 500, Inc., a volunteer organization that has donated over $12 million to more than 35 local arts organizations over the past 40 years.  For more information about The 500, Inc., call 214.565.0200 or visit www.the500inc.org. Details below. Maquire’s
Select 3 of the following courses for $30
with wine tasting for $40*
OR
Select 4 of the following courses for $37
with wine tasting for $49*
Oyster Nachos
Lightly battered and fried Texas Gulf Oysters,
wonton chips, pico de gallo, drizzled with bleu cheese & spicy buffalo sauce
*Hook & Ladder Gewurztraminer, Russian River Valley
2007
Tomato & Cucumber Salad
Yellow & red Texas tomatoes, crisp cucumber, organic oregano & shallot
vinaigrette over a slice of grilled seven grain toast
*McPherson Viognier, Lubbock Texas 2008
Fennel Crusted Halibut
Lightly crusted Alaskan Halibut, organic baby arugula,
warm basil vinaigrette, roasted purple potato
*Jacob’s Creek Reserve Shiraz, S. Australia 2005
Pecan Pie
Texas pecans, flaky pie crust and whipped cream
*Lustau ‘Solera Reserva’ Cream Sherry
PLEASE, NO SUBSTITUTIONS
17552 North Dallas Parkway • Dallas, Texas 75287 • 972.818.0068

Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen.

Margarita Shrimp, Pico de Gallo Cocktail Sauce, Gramma Minnie’s Fried Chicken, Maple-Black Pepper Gravy
Rahr Blonde Lager
•         Cedar Smoked Salmon, Turnip Puree, Ginger-Date Chutney
Rahr Buffalo Butt
•         Grilled Kirsch’s Bratwurst, Alsatian Red Chocroute, Roasted Onions and Peppers
Rahr Oktoberfest
•         Cumin-Espresso Crusted Buffalo Loin, Sweet Potato-Queso Anejo Sope, Guajillo Mole
Rahr Ugly Pug
•         Cranberry-Thai Basil Tart, Pink Peppercorn Ice Cream, Clementine Syrup
Rahr Stormcloud

Who: Celebrity Chef Kent Rathbun, has created critically acclaimed and award-winning restaurants, Abacus and Jasper’s, which have made food critics turn heads. Rathbun’s newest Dallas creation, Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen, pays homage to classic American dishes that capture local and regional’s finest ingredients. Upon entering, guests adorn the dimly lit and sleek interior, graced with wooden, sandstone touches and offering modern, metal hints to the ultimate dining experience. A Dallas favorite and must-see for anyone visiting Dallas, Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen is what everyone needs: Southern comfort food cuisine at its finest.

Winning “Best in Class” at the 2009 United States Beer Tasting Championship and other numerous championship medals, Rahr and Sons Brewery of Fort Worth is a family-owned company loyal to their roots. In the year 1847, Fritz Rahr’s great, great grandfather Wilhelm “William” Rahr and his young bride “Natalie” left behind hometown, Rhineland, Germany and came to America. Within the year, on the banks of Wisconsin’s Manitowoc River and Lake Michigan, William Rahr had established himself the Eagle “Rahr” Brewery and Malt House. The brewery and malting facility produced fine German lagers and rich roasted malts. Upon William’s death, his three sons changed the name of the brewery and malt house to the William Rahr and Sons Company and expanded their malting capabilities to help supply the entire surrounding brewing industry’s needs for malted barley. More than a century later, in 2004, his great-great grandson and namesake, Frederick William “Fritz” Rahr, Jr., and partners followed suit, building the current brewery on South Main Street in Fort Worth.

When:              Wednesday, September 30, 2009
6:30 p.m.

Cost:                $50 per guest plus tax and 20% gratuity

Reservations:   Reservations are required. Contact Julie Baker at (972) 265-7944

Where:             Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen
6130 Luther Ln.
Dallas, TX 75225
www.kentrathbun.com

500, Inc.
WHAT: The 500, Inc.’s WineFest 2009 with food sampling from the area’s finest restaurants paired with an exciting selection of wine from Texas wineries and other outstanding  vintners from across the country .  The event will also feature a phenomenal silent auction of merchandise and services, live music and the chance to win a flight in the Cavanaugh Flight Museum’s “Warbird” Aircraft.

WHEN:                  Saturday, October 24, 2009:  6:30pm – 10pm

WHERE:               Cavanaugh Flight Museum, 4572 Claire Chennault, Addison, TX  75001

RESTAURANTS:

Al Amir Restaurant & Club
Blue Mesa Grill
Cold Stone Creamery
Dunn Bros. Coffee
Ferrari’s Italian Villa
Fish City Grill
Greenz – Addison
Hibashi Teppan Grill & Sushi Bar
La Madeleine
Los Cucos Mexican Café
The Melting Pot
Mercy Wine Bar
Paradise Bakery
R&D Kitchen
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
Sweet Tomatoes
Tre Amici Prime Steak House and Seafood
Truluck’s Seafood, Steak and Crab House
Uncle Julio’s

TICKETS:             Advance tickets are $35 per person before October 23 and may be purchased online at www.winefest500.com.  Tickets at the door cost $40. Attendees must be 21+ to attend. Free parking is available; valet parking will be offered at a nominal cost.

PURPOSE:           Proceeds of the event benefit the beneficiaries of The 500, Inc., a volunteer organization that has supported over 35 local arts organizations over the past 40 years. The 500 Inc. creates awareness and raises funds for the Cultural Arts of Dallas. The event is planned and produced entirely by volunteers.

A DECADE OF DINING

10th ANNIVERSARY of STEPHAN PYLES CELEBRITY CHEF DINNER
Stunning Dinner and Auction Funds $15,000 Stephan Pyles Culinary Scholarship

DALLAS, TX (September 22, 2009) – The Wine & Food Foundation of Texas is thrilled to announce a milestone in Texas’ culinary history with the 10th anniversary of the Stephan Pyles Celebrity Chef Dinner benefiting the Stephan Pyles Culinary Scholarship to take place Sunday, November 8, 2009 at Chef Pyles’ flagship restaurant, Stephan Pyles.  The event is presented in part by longtime sponsors Central Market and Texas Monthly.
Five celebrity chefs from throughout the state including Chef Pyles will present a spectacular five-course wine dinner along with a live auction to fund one of the nation’s largest culinary scholarships.  The scholarship winner will prepare a special appetizer course served during the reception.  The short but action-packed live auction will include restaurant packages, rare and fine wines and other luxury items.  Each course will be prepared by a different chef including:
•      2009 Stephan Pyles Culinary Scholarship winner Thomas (Coner) Sargeant from the Texas Culinary Academy in Austin currently working at the Joule Hotel, Dallas
•      Executive Chef Vijay Sadhu of Samar by Stephan Pyles, Dallas
•      Chef/Owner Jason Dady of The Lodge Restaurant of Castle Hills, San Antonio
•      Chef/Owner Tracy Miller of Local, Dallas
•      Chef/Owner Stephan Pyles and Executive Chef Matt McCallister of Stephan Pyles, Dallas
•      Chef/Owner Zach Townsend from Pure Chocolate Desserts by Zach, Dallas

A reception kicks off the evening at 6 p.m. with dinner at 7 p.m.  Seating is limited and reservations are required.  The price is $125.00 per person (tax and gratuity included).  Reservations can be made by calling the Foundation at (512) 327-7555 or by visiting www.winefoodfoundation.org.

The Stephan Pyles scholarship is based upon an Iron-Chef style cook-off each spring, which challenges students to create a three-course menu utilizing a predetermined list of Texas ingredients.  The event is named for Texas legend Stephan Pyles, a legendary founding father of Southwestern cuisine and the first chef in the Southwest to win the prestigious James Beard award.  The competition is Chaired by Paris Cordon-Bleu trained Chef and Foundation member, Quincy Adams Erickson of Fête Accompli in Austin.  Applications for the 2010 competition will be available by the end of October to currently enrolled culinary students on the Foundation website, www.winefoodfoundation.org.  The 2010 competition will be rotated to Austin at the Texas Culinary Academy in March.

The Wine & Food Foundation of Texas is a statewide charitable Foundation (501c3) that supports education and research in the culinary and viticulture arts.  Chef Pyles is a long-time Foundation champion and Advisory member.  “We are proud to have accomplished ten years of scholarships for Texas’ student chefs.  Past winners have moved on to accomplish extraordinary things in our state and to have been able to provide that opportunity for them is truly humbling,” stated Pyles.  “This year we want to celebrate the hard work of everyone involved and make this dinner a show-stopper.”

About the Wine & Food Foundation of Texas
The Wine & Food Foundation of Texas is public charity founded in 1997 to support education and excellence in the culinary and viticulture arts. A membership organization, the Foundation provides scholarship and grants to innovative education projects in food and wine.  To date, the Foundation has given over $1 million to support public television, scholarships and grant projects throughout the state.

About Stephan Pyles and Samar by Stephan Pyles
Chef Stephan Pyles, named Esquire Magazine’s “2006 Chef of the Year”, is a pioneer of New American Cuisine and legendary founding father of Southwestern Cuisine.  He was the first chef in the Southwest to win a James Beard Award.  Chef Pyles is also a cuisine consultant for American Airlines and the Dallas Museum of Art.
In November 2005, Chef Pyles opened the first restaurant to bear his name.  Stephan Pyles, named “Texas’ Best New Restaurant of 2006” by Texas Monthly, is located just steps away from the Dallas Arts District.  The menu features New Millennium Southwestern Cuisine.  The focal points of the restaurant include the display kitchen, three distinct dining areas along with a tapas and ceviche bar, communal table, wine room as well as an al fresco terrace dining area.  Stephan Pyles (www.stephanpyles.com) is open for lunch (Monday through Friday) and dinner (Monday through Saturday).  Located at 1807 Ross Avenue at St. Paul Street, reservations can be made by calling 214.580.7000.
In September 2009, Chef Pyles will open a new restaurant in the Dallas Arts District named Samar by Stephan Pyles (www.samarrestaurant.com), serving international small plates inspired by Indian, Spanish and eastern Mediterranean cuisines.  Samar translates as a late night conversation spoken softly between two lovers.  The space features several seating areas including a private tent room, counter seating in the open kitchen and outdoor-tented terrace with hookah lounge.  Located at 2100 Ross Avenue, Suite 100, for information please call 214.992.9922.

SPECIAL MENU CELEBRATES LAVENDOU’S 13TH ANNIVERSARY

DALLAS (September 21, 2009) – Lavendou Bistro Provençal celebrates its 13th anniversary with a special three course Anniversary Menu created by owner Pascal Cayet and Executive Chef François Soyez. The meal includes a glass of champagne.

To begin, guests chose from Vichyssoise (Traditional Cold Leeks and Potatoes Soup); Salade du Periguord (Mixed Green Salad with Duck Confit and Mushroom); or Ceviche de Fruits de Mers (Mixed Seafood marinated in Lime Juice).

Main course dishes feature the flavors of Provence with a choice between Filet de Sole aux Ecrevisses (Filet of Sole with Crawfish Sauce), served with Rice Pilaf; Poussin Grillé Sauce Diable (Grilled Chicken Hen with Mustard and Bread Crumbs), served with Grilled Tomato, Mushroom and French Fries; or Plat de Côtes Braisé aux Petits Legumes (Braised Prime Beef Short Ribs in Wine Sauce), served with Root Vegetables.

For dessert, guests choose from three of Chef Soyez specialties: Crème Caramel (French Caramel Custard); Terrine au Chocolat (Chocolate Terrine with Grand Marnier Sauce) or Feuillantine aux Fruits Rouges (Mixed Berries served in a Pastry Shell with Chantilly Cream).

Price per guest for the Anniversary Menu is $38.95 including one glass of champagne. Reservations are recommended and may be made by phone (972-248-1911), fax (972-248-1660), by e-mail to provencial@aol.com or through the web site, www.Lavendou.com. Lavendou is located at 19009 Preston Road, Suite 200, in Dallas (75252).

ABOUT LAVENDOU BISTRO PROVENÇAL
Lavendou Bistro Provençal’s menu is presented with gracious service and served in a setting of warm and charming French countryside décor. Lavendou’s recipes feature classic French and Provençal dishes prepared with the freshest ingredients under the guidance of owner Pascal Cayet and his culinary team, and complemented with an extensive list of French and California wines. In addition to lunch and dinner, Lavendou also serves French High Tea by reservation and offers French cooking classes each season.

Lavendou has a special event dining space accommodating up to 50 guests. Choose from a selection of banquet menus or work with the maître d’ to create a special menu. Catering and take out menus are also available.

Lavendou is open six days a week; Monday through Saturday for lunch, French High Tea and dinner. Lunch is served Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. French High Tea is served Monday through Saturday from 2 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. (reservations required). Dinner is served Monday through Saturday from 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Lavendou is located at 19009 Preston Road, Suite 200, in Dallas (75252). Reservations are required for French High Tea and recommended for lunch and dinner. Make reservations by phone (972-248-1911), fax (972-248-1660), by e-mail to provencial@aol.com or through our web site, www.Lavendou.com.

Japanese Steak and Seafood
Cooking Demonstration and Wine Dinner

Friday October 2, 2009
6:30 pm

Menu

Mango, Crabmeat and Avocado Roll
TY KU Citrus Sake-Tini
TY KU Soju, TY KU Citrus Liqueur and TY KU Sake – Shaken and Chilled to Perfection
~~~~~~~
Japanese Shrimp, Mushroom and Miso Soup
Dry Creek Fume Blanc, Sonoma County
~~~~~~~
Japanese Style Beef Short Ribs Tempura
Dry Creek “Heritage” Zinfandel, Sonoma County
~~~~~~~
Banana Macadamia Rum Flambe
Takara Premium Plum Wine

$69.95 per person plus tax and 21% gratuity

Chamberlain’s Fish Market Grill
4525 Belt Line Rd. ~ Addison, TX  75001
Reservations Required ~ 972-503-3474

Could you possibly recommend a restaurant in Irving, possibly Italian, for an important business lunch?

Y’all, hit it.

Chef Gina Stipo teaches Eric and A.W. how to make biscotti.

Almost two years ago, I took a group of friends to Italy to learn how to cook Italian food at Ecco La Cucina just outside of Siena. Yes, we learned how to cook, but, more importantly, we learned how to eat. We traveled to small pig farms, saffron fields, and other artisanal businesses. We all went into shock when we came back to Dallas and tried to find real Tuscan food. (Thus the inspiration for the menu of the SideDish Supper Club on Thursday. Join us!)

Anywhoo, now we want to eat our way across Spain. I’ve spent time in Barcelona but nowhere else. Anyone out there care to suggest an eating itinerary? Kent Rathbun took a group last spring and I looked at his itinerary, but I’d prefer to mix in smaller producers and restaurants with the obvious big deal spots. (Has anyone tried Rathbun’s new Spanish menu at Abacus?) Today is deadline day at the magazine, so you can expect me to be here on the blog doing what I do best.  And looking back at our Italy pictures. And planning another escape.

Spanish tapas platter: croquettes, jamon, olives and pan con tomates

· Razor clams drizzled with garlic lemon butter

· Crispy foie gras, vanilla celery root puree and mint bubbles

· Soupy shellfish paella with wood grilled bread sticks

· Calatrava bread pudding

]]> http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/2009/09/10/abacus-debuts-spanish-menu/feed/ 1 http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/2009/09/09/whats-your-favorite-epicurean-shop/ http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/2009/09/09/whats-your-favorite-epicurean-shop/#comments Wed, 09 Sep 2009 15:34:32 +0000 Todd Johnson http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/?p=8825 I fear that the days of the corner shop specializing in oils, spices, sauces, and all things savory are numbered. Central Market and Whole Foods have made it too easy for one-stop foodie shopping. Heck, even everyday grocers like Tom Thumb and Kroger carry specialty/gourmet items now. Still, I love that sense of discovery you get when you stumble upon a new vinegar at Flavors From Afar or Italian sauce at Jimmy’s. I love owners that take the time to dole out samples and entertain as well as educate my palate. So, that said, I’m working on a story for the next issue of D Home on the best epicurean shops. I’ll allow bakeries, butchers, and cheese shops as long as they carry various gourmet goodies that fall outside their particular food type. (Example: Scardello is a cheese boutique but also carries great chutneys, sauces, and has a first-rate sea salt bar.) So, SideDishers, let me have it. I have a small list already. But I need more help. Especially in the suburbs. (Hey, Southlake, what up?)

Want to visit the wine country but out of NetJets units? Or don’t want to bear the cost of getting the G50 out of mothballs in the Arizona desert? Easy. Tour the wine country in Dallas where there are now four commercial wineries that have banded together in a joint promotion called the Dallas Wine Trail. The idea is that you travel from one winery to the other, taste three wines at each, talk to the winemakers, and tour the winemaking facilities. For $39 you get the tasting, light food at each location, a souvenir glass and a bottle of one of the wineries wines to take home.

First stop was throbbing downtown Lakewood to visit Times Ten Cellars. This winery sells almost entirely California wine. However, a new development is the coming on stream of their own Texas vineyard “Cathedral Mountain Vineyard” in Alpine Texas (that is so far away it’s closer to Chihuahua than Dallas). It is planted to what appears to be a risk-aversion strategy: Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc reflect Bordeaux. Syrah and Grenache reflect the Rhone region of France and Tempranillo reflects Spain. We tasted the first vintage from Central Mountain Vineyard which includes all of these grapes (see tasting notes below the jump). The food consisted of sandwich rolls filled with either tuna salad or ham. Pretty tasty.

Next stop was at Calais Winery in the neutron bomb test zone known as Deep Ellum. This is the newest of the four wineries on the tour having been formed by Frenchman Benjamin Calais, with exquisite timing, just prior to the economic crash of 2008. To date, all of their wines have been made with California fruit shipped under dry ice for fermentation and aged at their winery in Dallas. However, change is afoot. On the day of the tour, he and his wife had got back barely 24 hours earlier from Newsom Vineyards in Plains, West Texas having spent 48 hours, virtually without sleep, hand picking and crushing fruit left on the vines after mechanical harvesting was completed. Newsom Vineyards is the source of most of the top-ranked Tempranillo wines from the state and Calais and his wife had to go through this hand-picking ordeal because there is a queue of some 50 wineries ahead of him for the fruit. He told me how he had planned to make a Rosé like the Tempranillo Rosados from Spain but gave up when he saw the color of Texas fruit immediately after crushing. The pigmentation was so dark he realized he would be making an inky red monster whatever his best-laid plans. The food match was Scardello’s cheeses although I had to leave before any serious sampling so I just grabbed a slice of the Empire Bakery bread.

The third stop was FUQUA Winery. This winery is focused mainly on California fruit and all three wines we tasted were majority California wine. The food here was the most varied of anywhere on the tour. Rex’s Fresh Seafood provided shrimp paste on crackers that tasted truly shrimpy but unfortunately had some chili’s in that made them incompatible with the wine. Kathleen’s Sky Diner (neé Kathleen’s Art Café) provided half a dozen toppings for bruschetta, an organic meat producer from Oklahoma provided succulent mouth-sized portions of various cuts of beef and Paula Lambert, representing her own firm, Mozzarella Company, served six cheeses including three very worthy chevres.

The final stop was Inwood Estate Vineyards. Here the emphasis is certainly not on ambience. Inwood Estate Vineyards produces wine exclusively from Texas fruit. The winery has a separate label, xxx, for its non-Texas wines. For the tour, they pulled out all the stops, serving their latest flagship offerings of Tempranillo-Cabernet blends, Tempranillo and the limited release ‘Magellan’, a blend of the five Bordeaux varieties and Tempranillo.

Perhaps it was a cult following, perhaps just because it was later in the day, but Inwood Estates was packed. The food had suffered. Maybe it had started as a hors d’oeuvres plate but by now it resembled a grainy movie of 1945 Dresden, with red specks. I passed.
The next Dallas Wine Trail will be publicized here on SideDish. I highly recommend it if you can take part.

Until then, jump for my geeky tasting notes.

Andrew Chalk’s Geeky  Tasting Notes

All of the wines on the tour are available at the wineries and all permit ordering over the Internet via their web sites if you wish. So, since some of you may wonder what wines I have been talking about, here are my geeky notes on all 12:

Times Ten Cellars

2007 Cathedral Mountain Vineyard, Vino de terra Alta. Red Blend, Texas

A blend of 33% Tempranillo, 33% Syrah, 2437% Grenache, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc.

The nose has spiciness, Tempranillo fruit and red fruits. The taste is thin on the mid-palette, slightly sweet with a short to medium finish. So many varieties in the blend leave the varietal character of this wine a mystery.

Drink now, maybe with BBQ.

This is the first year for wine from this young vineyard. I think we are beta testing the vineyard. The vines, and the winemaker, need time to get the best from each other.   80/100

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast, California

The nose has raspberries and liquorice. The taste is of sweet, open fruit (typical warm-climate characteristics). The wine is simple with soft tannins.

Drink now.79/100

2007 Gewurztraminer, Monterey County, California

The nose has peaches and  lychees. The taste repeats the peaches in the nose. However, the fruit is thin and too monotonic in its flavors. Short finish.

Serve with a fruit dessert. E.g. a fruit tart or pie. 82/100

Calais Winery

2008 Pinot Gris, California

The nose is perfumy and light. Just very unobjectionable rather than distinct.

Serve as a summer afternoon aperitif. 77/100

2007 La Cuvée Principale, Chardonnay, California

That’s ‘Main St.’ to non French speakers. Calais names his wines after the streets that surround his winery. I wonder what he will name after the biggest landmark in the area ‘The Parking Meter”.

This wine is made from California grapes from the Lodi region. They are packed in dry ice to suspend fermentation on their journey to Texas. He crushes (what remains uncrushed from the 1500 mile journey) and ages the wine in his winery. No oak is used for aging.

The nose is dominated by a vineous quality, a negative one that is. The taste is similar with little varietal character.

This wine needs oak. 78/100

2006 La Cuvée de Commerce, Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), Syrah (15%)

The nose exhibits the Syrah with bacon scent qualities. In the mouth the wine has Cabernet fruit with tough tannins and steminess. The wine has a medium finish.

Serve with lamb or BBQ. 80/100

FUQUA Winery

2007 FUQUA Chardonnay, California

A small amount of Viognier added. No oak used in aging.

The nose is a faint lemony character. Possibly some perfumy aromatics from the Viognier going on here. In the mouth there is a taste of lychees. Good acid.

Serve with lobster. 80/100

2005 Pinot Noir, Mendocino

From the Potter valley AVA.

The nose is classic Pinot Noir fruit with a light to medium intensity. In the mouth the fruit is astoundingly forward, especially for a four-year old wine.

Serve with pork. 82/100

2006 Tempranillo, vat No. 3, California

Some Texas fruit also used. I am seeking more information on the provinence of this wine.

The nose has hints of Tempranillo fruit. The taste is an absolute model of balance. There is fruit, but this is not a fruit bomb. There is acid. But this is not acidic. There is tannin, but this is not tannic. I can see why this wine won a double gold medal at the San Francisco International Wine Competition. The best-balanced wine of the 12 on offer on the tour. 91/100

Inwood Estates Vineyards

2005 Tempranillo/Cabernet, Texas

The nose is Tempranillo fruit, cherries and raspberries. In the mouth this is a chewy wine with good grip and a long finish. I have tasted several examples of this and don’t remember it being this good. Possibly bottle age is bringing it on.

Serve with lamb, steak, game. 90/100

2007 Tempranillo, “Cornelius”, Texas

This is 100% Texas high plains fruit. Viticulture by Neal Newsom on a vineyard co-owned by he and Inwood Estates.

The nose is unduly plumy. This appears to be bottle variation as I have not noticed it before. In the mouth this wine is made in a highly extracted style. There are grippy tannins and a medium finish.

Serve with lamb, steak, game. 86/100

2006 ‘Magellan’, Texas

A blend of the five Bordeaux varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec) with Tempranillo. Winemaker Dan Gatlin see this as an iconic and icon-busting wine in Texas oenological history but we will have to wait to find out.

The nose is, at present, subdued with tight-knit fruit. In the mouth the wine is a tannic creature. Black cherry and an all-encompassing minerality dominate. However, this very serious wine is inscrutable at this time. Check back in five years but I suspect it will last much longer. Could Dan Gatlin become the Randy Dunn of Texas? 91+/100

Dr. McWilliams will be joined by spokespersons from other environmental fields and the panel will discuss such topics as “What does it truly mean to eat responsibly?” There will be an opening reception at 6:00 p.m. and Dr. McWilliams will be signing copies of his book. It’s a bargain: Institute & Forum Members: $20, Nonmembers: $25, Member Teachers: $7. 214 871-2440. See you there.

Gina Puente-Brancato, Chief Executive Officer of Puente-Brancato Enterprises, announced today that her company will open UFood Grill and Urban Taco restaurants in Dallas County’s Parkland Memorial Hospital. Currently PBE owns and operates UFood Grill and Urban Taco locations, and 20 other businesses, in Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport (DFW).

UFood Grill, which serves no fried food, is a natural for hospitals looking to provide diners with a quick-service restaurant offering “better-for-you” versions of traditional favorites, such as chicken wraps, whole grain rice bowls and specialty salads. Urban Taco, a modern Mexican taqueria, has been enhanced to serve authentic Mexican favorites with more nutritional balance.

Using all fresh ingredients, the menu includes items such as salads, urban tacos, and Mexico City tortas. PBE is hiring more than 100 positions for the two restaurants before their December 1st, 2009 openings. PBE is continually searching for “difference makers” who enjoy a smaller, fast-paced organization that recognizes individual contributions and fresh, new ideas. The company is hiring everything from cooks to cashiers, food preps, administrative, utility and management personnel. Interested applicants should call 972-574-6227 or email jobs@pbedfw.com.