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Last Days of Gourmet: A Photo Essay by Kevin Demaria

Photo by Kevin Demaria.

Kevin Demaria, the former associate art director of Gourmet, captured the last days at the magazine with this photo essay. (Gourmet to Go?) It makes me want to kiss my keyboard. I still can’t believe Gourmet is gone. Food writing is in transition and it’s getting scary.

Somebody Help This Poor Man: Turkish Food in Dallas

He has time but he needs your help:

Our organization Friendship Force of Dallas is going on an exchange trip to Turkey next year.  We are looking for a Turkish restaurant that can accommodate a group of 50-60 people for a meeting next July.  Can you provide me with a list of restaurants in the Dallas area that have a Turkish ethnic atmosphere and food?  I appreciate any assistance you can provide.

Hit it and get it.

Dallas Restaurants: What Do We Need?

What kind of restaurant would Major Tony Nelson and Jeannie do in Dallas?

I was having a conversation with a “highly educated” person the other night and he said, “Dallas really needs a great burger place.” I was stunned. When I asked him what places he liked, he reeled off spots—Chips, Goff’s, Neighborhood Services—that were in his neighborhood. I asked him if he ever went out of his way to discover or try new places and he admitted that he didn’t really. He has now been downgraded to “somewhat intelligent.”  I mean talk about closed minded. (They don’t even melt the cheese at Goff’s.)

The inside-the-loop-outside-the-loop foodie argument drives me nuts. There is great food all over this area if you are willing to drive. But if you had one restaurant wish, what would you like to see in Dallas? I know what I want, it’s a fleet of these, STAT. Your turn.

New Federal Trade Commission Guidelines and Food Writers

The Federal Trade Commission recently updated its “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.” If you are a blogger, freelance writer, advertising copy writer, or professional writer you need to read the document, especially if you accept complimentary products such as food, wine, or free dinners. The revised rules require you to disclose how you received the products you review or endorse. Scott, over at Dallasfood.org has a brilliant analysis of the document.

Let me give you an example what happens here at D headquarters on a regular basis. Let’s say a box of cupcakes, a package of chocolate, or bag of food samples arrives with a note from the store owner or publicist. Everyone in the office goes bonkers and whatever is delivered disappears in about 2 seconds. If we don’t post anything on SideDish, I generally receive a “follow-up” note like this:

Hi Nancy, I just wanted to follow up on the “Insert Name” “Insert Item” that we sent last week from “Insert Company” and get your thoughts/feedback on the new flavors. We think it would make an interesting post on SideDish or an article for your magazine. We’d love to hear what you thought of them and see if they might be a fit for an upcoming story or mention. “Insert Company” will be expanding and owner “Insert Name” is hoping to open more locations soon.  We appreciate any comments you have!

If someone on the SideDish staff decides to write about the product, they now have to mention the fact that the food was not paid for by D Magazine. If we don’t, we violate the Federal Trade Commission Act and could receive a fine.

At the risk of calling in the food police, I will say that we have always run a tight ship around here. We’ve always paid for food we review and I do not attend media dinners or accept complimentary dinners. We have sent a copy of the FTC guidelines to our attorney to make sure we comply with all of the rules.

But here is one rub—I’ve already heard that some bloggers and indie food writers are finding ways to get around the rules by posting one small disclaimer somewhere on their webpage and not in the copy of the item. So readers beware. Ask questions. It’s a jungle out there.

Thanks to SideDish Readers, Matches in Restaurants are Making a Comeback!

Yow. Zah. Remember last week when we reminisced about free matches in Dallas restaurants? Today, Kirk sends this link to a feature story in the New York Times.   Next Monday I will have more photos of old Dallas matches. Continue on, dear trendsetters. And say thanks to Kirk for sharing.

Posting Reader Complaints: Good Idea or Bad Idea?

Yesterday I posted a Disher’s complaint about Zorba’s. Several commenters disagreed with the anonymous complainant and the owner, Pavlos Guiatas, posted a rebuttal. I thought, in the end, it was a discussion that provoked interest in Zorba’s.

I hate to say that I’m smart, but I receive a lot of e-mails from people trying to cyber-bash a restaurant. Usually I can tell if the note comes from someone on the inside or a disgruntled employee—they tend to know too much and the note is usually a personal attack and not a general complaint about an experience.

So, I ask you. I view this space as an open forum for discussion. Do I post anonymous complaints? Do I e-mail them back and say “I will post your complaint if you give me your real name?” Or do I hit delete? It’s your space. Define it.

Whistle! Foul on Blog Editor Mike Hiller! Dishers, I Need a Ruling.

Dining critics at work.

Yesterday l linked to a post by chef Brian Luscher on former DMN dining critic Mike Hiller’s website Escapehatchdallas.com. While most of the people who left comments agreed with Luscher, I received several e-mails from “professionals” who were a bit concerned about the line “Taking scalps just because you have a hatchet isn’t the same as writing a fair review.” I wrote to both Hiller and Luscher and asked them to clarify and Hiller responded in the comments section. He writes:

“It seems to me Luscher was directing his comments primarily at those bloggers and casual Web commenters who don’t feel any obligation to present fair, comprehensive reviews.” And on his site he writes“…the scalp/hatchet comment, well, that was added for spice in the final edit and has since been removed.”

Couple of questions. If Luscher was directing his comments primarily at bloggers, why does the opening sentence contain “professional restaurant critics and amateur online reviewers”? Also, Hiller admits to adding what I feel is a pretty provocative line (scalp/hatchet) to post with Luscher’s byline. Methinks he put the restaurant owner in a hot seat.  And putting words he didn’t say in his mouth. Foul or fair? Hit it.

What The Grape’s Brian Luscher Thinks About Dining Critics

Bend over and click here. Luscher, I thought you’d hit harder than that. You take your strongest stance on cell phone cameras? You say, “Taking scalps just because you have a hatchet isn’t the same as writing a fair review.” Are you talking about bloggers or paid dining critics? Come on, let’s rumble. Get Faries (”State” Fairies), Brenner, and Teegster over here.

Dallas Institute’s “Au Courant”: The French Experience Featuring Dr. Elizabeth New

This just in:

The Dallas Institute’s “Au Courant” membership group (45 years and under) will conduct the first in a series highlighting the global bounty of our local scene. First up: the French, who do many things, including art, architecture, literature, fashion, the Paris Metro, technology, and of course food and wine.

Accompanied by rich visual images, Dr. Elizabeth New of “French Affaires” will discuss various facets of French food, culture, and what makes French cuisine unique. Benjamin Calais of Calais Winery in the Deep Ellum neighborhood will highlight the French culture of wine and talk about his wine offerings here in Dallas. We’ll top off the evening with a wine and cheese tasting. Your parting souvenir will be a resource list of authentic French food and wine experiences in the Dallas area so you can continue the “Local-Global” theme after our French soiree at The Dallas Institute! 6:00-7:30 p.m., Monday, Oct. 19. Admission: Members $25; Nonmembers $35; Member Teachers $10. RSVP by calling Caitlin Hinton at 214 981-8822 or by registering online. The Dallas Institute of Humanities and Culture is located at 2719 Routh St., Dallas, 75201.

Soba Making Demonstration at Tei-An in Dallas

This just in:

Akira Inoue, the master of Teiichi Sakurai (chef /owner of Tei-An) will be demonstrating how to make soba-buckwheat noodles at Tei-An.

Mr. Inoue teaches the art of making soba at Tsukiji Soba Academy, the school he founded in Tokyo. He will travel to New York-Dallas-Los Angeles to introduce the art of making soba.

Mr. Inoue will make “Shin Soba” or “fresh soba”, which is made with flour from newly harvested buckwheat. Shin Soba is a rare treat as it’s available only twice a year, and highly prized by the Japanese for its certain aroma and sweetness.

Mr. Inoue would like to show you the art of making soba.

The demonstration will take place on Tuesday, October 20th at 7:00 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. at Tei-An.  You can order Shin Soba hot or cold from the menu after the demonstration.

Please join us to witness a great master at his craft.

For reservations or more information, please call 214-220-2828 or e-mail teian@tx.rr.com

50 Incredible Lectures for the Ultimate Foodie

A nice lady named Amber Johnson sends you this link to 50 Incredible Lectures for the Ultimate Foodie. I’ve spent the last 90 minutes dipping into the video library and I could spend the rest of the day curled up on the couch watching them all. So far I’ve scanned “Craig Claiborne and the Invention of Food Journalism,” “Food Writing Forum: Eat, Memory,” and Ferran Adria: A Day at elBulli”. Bookmark the site and save it for a rainy day.

Somebody Help This Poor Girl: Birthday Bash

She is in a jam and doesn’t give us much to go on, but here is her plea:

I am in desperate need of some suggestions for a birthday dinner on Saturday and was hoping you could help. Needs to be a fun atmosphere, and good food. Preferably something unique.

Conde Nast to Close Gourmet Magazine

Read all about it here. I cannot believe this decision. Apparently they had to choose either Gourmet or Bon Appetit, so most people thought it would be Bon Ap, considering, oh, Gourmet has been around for 68 years, and Ruth Reichl is food world royalty (waiting to hear what she has to say on twitter). This is a sad day.

UPDATE: I just read this on Twitter: ruthreichl Thank you all SO much for this outpouring of support. It means a lot. Sorry not to be posting now, but I’m packing. We’re all stunned, sad.16 minutes ago . (NN)

Janet Kafka: SideDish Readers Want Taberna del Alabardero in Dallas

Janet and Terry Kafka in Aspen last summer.

This just in from Andrew Chalk:

Thanks to Kirk for the heads-up to this article from the El Paso Times. Basque Restaurant Taberna del Alabardero is preparing a multi-course meal at the Coronado County Club in El Paso consisting of specialties from the Basque region of Spain. Examples include a typical Taberna pincho (Basque version of tapa): bacalao brandade (salt dried cod puree, olive oil, milk and/or cream, spices, herbs, etc.) stuffed in thinly sliced rolled zucchini slices topped with Romesco sauce (a mixture of tomatoes, peppers, onion, garlic, almonds or hazelnuts and olive oil) not to mention Jamon Iberico (Iberian ham).

Perhaps most intriguing is the reason a famous Basque Taberna is doing a meal in El Paso. It was arranged by the Honorary Consul General of Spain. Now Dallas doesn’t have a Spanish Consul General, but Google points to  The Honorable Janet Pollman Kafka as an Honorary Consul of Spain.  Any chance of getting her to contact Taberna del Alabardero and tell them Dallas would fill up their Basque meal as well (probably for many nights)?

Hey Janet, old buddy. I smell a SideDish Supper Club waiting to happen. Call me, let’s talk.

Former Dallas Restaurant Critics: Mary Brown Malouf

Mary Brown Malouf at my high school graduation.

I’ve been at my post here at D Magazine for 13 years. Sometime I wonder how many calories I have eaten; other times I wonder how many of those calories were actually worth ingesting. Restaurant reviewers eat more low-to-medium quality food than spectacular meals.

Anywhoo, in the post below, I mentioned Michael Hiller. He used to be a critic at the DMN. Over the years, I’ve seen lots of “critics” come and go. Anyone remember Betty Cook? Suzanne Hough (R.I.P)? Dave Faries? (Oh, he’s still here.) Or Mary Brown Malouf?

Mary was a real biyatch when she wrote dining reviews for the Dallas Observer. When she came to work at D in the late 90s, we became good friends. But Mary ditched D and Dallas and she’s now the Food and Travel editor at Salt Lake City Magazine. I just looked on their site and found a classic Mary Brown Malouf rant.  Gosh, I’m all nostalgic. Call me, Bill.

How about you? Who do you miss? Who do you love? Who do you hate?

Food Porn: Tasting Room at Lola

Holy cow, the boys over at Dallasfood.org posted some fabulous pictures from a recent dinner at the Tasting Room at Lola. Here’s a link to GavList’s review and photos. Nicely done.

Is the City of Dallas Health Department Shutting Down Local Farmers Markets?

I’ve been hearing rumors for weeks that city officials were making the rounds and visiting the small farmers markets that have cropped up in spots such as Celebration, Bolsa, and North Haven Gardens. Now comes official word from Ed Lowe of Celebration. They have shut him down and he’s going to the Dallas City Council.

The City of Dallas Health Department has decided that the Celebration Farmers Market is in violation of certain codes. Celebration was told on 2 previous occasions that we could operate a Farmers Market in our parking lot under our existing permits. We strongly believe that all food handling practices and food products at the Farmers Market were perfectly safe. We have complied strictly with all Health Department codes for 38 years and take our responsibility to public health VERY SERIOUSLY.

We appreciate the warm welcome and support that you’ve provided our Saturday Farmers Market. We believe that what we along with our wonderful vendors are offering is a safe, fun and convenient setting for you to purchase healthy, delicious, local produce and other products.

We are going to approach the Dallas City Council to explore how the code can be modified to allow the Celebration Farmers Markets and others like us to provide a valuable service to the citizens of Dallas while protecting the public health.

I have contacted Ed and asked him for instructions on how you can sign the petition he plans to take to the Dallas City Council. Stay tuned. (OMG, I can hear Amy Severson already.)

Samar by Stephan Pyles in Dallas: VIP Grand Opening Party

Samar’s creators paid huge attention to design. The following video is a tour of the restaurant with Stephan Pyles. (Pardon the sound; the place was packed.)

We sent Andrew Chalk to cover the semi-soft opening of Samar by Stephan Pyles. Here is his report. You want chandeliers? Stephan Pyles bought some chandeliers for Samar. Go Andrew:

Samar by Stephan Pyles held its invite-only preview party on Saturday and, judging by the turnout, reservations to this new eatery are going to be hard to get. (The official opening day is still TBD but planned for “early October.”)

Saturday, close to 1,000 of Stephan’s closest friends piled into the restaurant, the patio, and a specially rented spillover area. Despite the crowd, the staff coped with the rush like a well-oiled machine. Even the periodic guest-dropping-a-glass-in-a-crowded-bar problem was immediately met with a staffer who cordoned off the area while another cleaned it clean up. The kitchen and wait staff dispatched appetizers with that frictionless regularity which makes you wonder if the servers aren’t on roller skates.

The centerpiece of any restaurant is the food. Pyles installed Vijay Sadhu, formerly of Bukhara Grille and Clay Pit, as head chef because he wanted Indian cuisine to be one of the inspirations at Samar.The other influences on the menu come from Spain and the area loosely defined as the Eastern Mediterranean (mainly Lebanon, Syria, and Turkey). Here is chef Sadhu describing some of the appetizers.

Chef Sadhu showed the crowd his ambitious stuff—all of the food was prepared perfectly. As he showed at his earlier positions, Vijay Sadhu is an expert and combining flavors and bringing them out in his dishes. Here is a short list of what was served: Red Lentiles Kofte (Turkish), Kebbeh with Golden beets tzatziki sauce, Chicken kebab stuffed with spiced gound lamb served with Spice tomato jam and crispy okra, Saffron Paneer tikka with spiced vermicelli and cumin scented asparagus, Chocolate Samosa with rose jam, and Papadam cones stuffed with Mung sprouts

Guests were offered either a specially created martini that apparently involved pomegranate juice (and had a fruity approachability that made it deceptively easy to imbibe) or one of a number of respectable wines.This food, by the way, is wine-friendly.

Outside, the patio was put to good use. Belly dancers entertained the crowd that, coincidentally, became progressively less and less reserved.

Hookah pipes were available to complete one’s sense transportation from the corner of Ross and Olive to some exotic country.

Dallas Observer 2009 Best of Dallas® Food List: What do You Think?

Please don’t sue me for using your cover art.

I’m stuck at home in my little glass house. I see a few pebbles on the floor and I think I will toss them.

I just scanned through the Dallas Observer’s 2009 Best of Dallas® Food list. It reminds me of that Who song. What is it, Kirk? Something about the new boss and the old boss? YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH! Bomp, bomp, bomp. YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!

Dave Fairies, I have a quick question: Does the Observer repeat “Bests” if, when the next year rolls around, no one else  fills the category as “Better®?” (That’s mine, dude.)  This is a serious question and I ask it because I have to deal with the beast of ‘Bests” and understand the difficulty at uncovering them. So, Mr. Fairies, do you roll over “Bests” from year to year by moving them into different categories or because they are the “Best” of their original category? Let’s go through the list together and see. Jump with me. It’s not far. (more…)

Wine Dinner (And Stuff and Such and Beyond) Wednesday

I apologize for the blatant copy and paste of information below, but I had an emergency surgery on my eye yesterday for a torn retina and I only have a day or two to suck sympathy out of you and my co-workers. PLUS, I have to get ready for this afternoon’s SideDish CheeseHead’s CELEBRATION OF  TEXAS CHEESE AND WINE EVENT at Celebration. The weather is going to be fabulous and we’ll be out on the patio. I’ll be the one with the cheesehead hat and the black eye patch!

Back to business:

Maquire’s. Has a new “Chef’s Seasonal Tasting Menu.” Three courses for $30; four courses for $37. Upgrade to wine pairing is $40 or $49. Details below. 972.818.0068

TJ’s Seafood. They don’t want you to get bored with seafood so they have new recipes, ideas, and sauces and marinades.  Fish Taco Sauce – so many of you have come in making fish tacos we decided to get a great fish taco sauce.  Fish Tacos are a fun (and kid friendly) way to get the family eating healthy fish. Tilapia is great and cost effective. Honey & Jalapeno Grill Glaze – perfect on salmon, swordfish, sea bass or anything else on the grill. If you can’t stand the heat, get away from the grill….this one is a little spicy! Japanese-Style House Marinade – if you like the Citrus Wasabi & Honey Ginger House Marinades, you’ll love this one. Lots of soy, sesame oil, ginger and cilantro.  Justs marinate shrimp, scallops and tuna for 20-30 min before grill or saute.

Cibus Ristorante. Has Bocce in the Park brought to you by NorthPark Center and The Italian Club of Dallas. Sunday, September 27th from noon to 4pm in CenterPark at NorthPark. Join us for a fun-filled afternoon for the entire family. Learn to play Bocce Ball if you never have or join the pros from the Italian Club for a lively game. Cibus will be grilling in the garden as well as offering selections from their regular menu plus refreshing cocktails and specialty coffee drinks. 214-692-0001.

Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen. Will host first beer dinner with Rahr & Sons Brewery.
Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen will debut its first ever beer dinner hosted by world-renowned Rahr & Sons Brewery, Fort Worth’s German award-winning brewery. Melissa “Mel” Simmons, Rahr & Sons Brewery Representative, will introduce their most famous beers accompanied with Rathbun’s extraordinary plates. For the first time at Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen, guests will experience their very own “Oktoberfest” tradition in their seats. The dinner menu and beer pairings detailed below. Wednesday, September 30, 2009.

The 500, Inc.’s WineFest 2009. The 500, Inc. announces the spectacular 7th Annual WineFest featuring an exciting selection of wine and delicious cuisine from over 20 of the area’s top eateries, a large silent auction, live music and the pleasurable company of friends and family in the hundreds. WineFest 2009 will be held on Saturday, October 24 from 6:30pm – 10pm at the Cavanaugh Flight Museum in Addison.  Advance tickets are $35 per person before October 23 and may be purchased online at www.winefest500.com.  Tickets at the door cost $40.  Proceeds of the event benefit the beneficiaries of The 500, Inc., a volunteer organization that has donated over $12 million to more than 35 local arts organizations over the past 40 years.  For more information about The 500, Inc., call 214.565.0200 or visit www.the500inc.org. Details below. (more…)

Somebody Help This Poor Girl: Italian Restaurant in Irving

Hear her plea:

Could you possibly recommend a restaurant in Irving, possibly Italian, for an important business lunch?

Y’all, hit it.

Secret Supper in Dallas: Food Creates Community

Y’all remember chef Jordan Swim, the chef behind the underground dinners? Well, he is back with another offering—this one will take place on October 17th at 7:00 p.m. The four-course menu is “fall-inspired and is $50 per person. Details here.

I Want to Eat Spain in Spain

Chef Gina Stipo teaches Eric and A.W. how to make biscotti.

Almost two years ago, I took a group of friends to Italy to learn how to cook Italian food at Ecco La Cucina just outside of Siena. Yes, we learned how to cook, but, more importantly, we learned how to eat. We traveled to small pig farms, saffron fields, and other artisanal businesses. We all went into shock when we came back to Dallas and tried to find real Tuscan food. (Thus the inspiration for the menu of the SideDish Supper Club on Thursday. Join us!)

Anywhoo, now we want to eat our way across Spain. I’ve spent time in Barcelona but nowhere else. Anyone out there care to suggest an eating itinerary? Kent Rathbun took a group last spring and I looked at his itinerary, but I’d prefer to mix in smaller producers and restaurants with the obvious big deal spots. (Has anyone tried Rathbun’s new Spanish menu at Abacus?) Today is deadline day at the magazine, so you can expect me to be here on the blog doing what I do best.  And looking back at our Italy pictures. And planning another escape.

Abacus Debuts Spanish Menu

Fresh off recent trip to Catalonia, chef Kent Rathbun is offering a new Spanish menu at Abacus. Now through Sept 30,you can get five courses for $45 per person. Here’s la carta:

Spanish tapas platter: croquettes, jamon, olives and pan con tomates

· Razor clams drizzled with garlic lemon butter

· Crispy foie gras, vanilla celery root puree and mint bubbles

· Soupy shellfish paella with wood grilled bread sticks

· Calatrava bread pudding

What’s Your Favorite Epicurean Shop?

I fear that the days of the corner shop specializing in oils, spices, sauces, and all things savory are numbered. Central Market and Whole Foods have made it too easy for one-stop foodie shopping. Heck, even everyday grocers like Tom Thumb and Kroger carry specialty/gourmet items now. Still, I love that sense of discovery you get when you stumble upon a new vinegar at Flavors From Afar or Italian sauce at Jimmy’s. I love owners that take the time to dole out samples and entertain as well as educate my palate. So, that said, I’m working on a story for the next issue of D Home on the best epicurean shops. I’ll allow bakeries, butchers, and cheese shops as long as they carry various gourmet goodies that fall outside their particular food type. (Example: Scardello is a cheese boutique but also carries great chutneys, sauces, and has a first-rate sea salt bar.) So, SideDishers, let me have it. I have a small list already. But I need more help. Especially in the suburbs. (Hey, Southlake, what up?)