“Shepherd’s Pie” with turkey, Tom’s turnip mash, Bibb salad with chopped winter vegetables and Meyer lemon vinaigrette. $19.99

Her recommended wine pairings are:

Red: Casamatta Toscana 2009  (11.99)

White: Tranquillo Texas White Table Wine 2010 (13.99)  Drew Hendricks Wine.

Wines available Bolsa Mercado. No phone orders. They’ll be ready to purchase at 4PM.

This man can afford this dinner.

If I were a rich man, I’d buy the last two seats to this spectacular dinner on October 26. Since I am neither rich nor a man, a subject that is oft debated amongst these cubicles, I will pass the opportunity on to those who have enough dough to go. The dinner looks to be bobbydazzler guaranteed to erase the reality of the brutal economy from your mind. If only for one night.

Hit it, Jasper:

Our [Sigel’s] 2009 Vintage Premier Fete de Bordeaux at The Mansion on Turtle Creek promises to be the most exciting dining event in Dallas this year. In addition to the wonderful white and red wines from Bordeaux we are proud to announce that Maison Ruinart will be our Champagne partner for the evening. Established in 1729 Ruinart is the oldest Champagne house, specializing in Blanc de Blanc and Rose bottlings.  The menu from Chef Bruno Davaillon has been finalized and promises to be the perfect accompaniment to these fantastic wines. Featuring: Jean-Charles Cazes - Lynch Bages & Ormes de Pez;Anthony Barton - Leoville Barton & Langoa Barton; Nicolas Glumineau – Winemaker, Montrose & Tronquoy Lalande; Melissa Bouygues - Owner, Montrose & Tronquoy Lalande. Wednesday, October 26 @ 7PM. $225 per person. For reservations please contact: Randy McLaughlin - 214-350-1271 or rmclaughlin@sigels.com.

Wait until you read the menu and pairings.

Menu

Champagne Reception

Passed Hors d’Oeuvres  Foie Gras Doughnut, Date-Lemon Chutney

Ruinart Blanc de Blanc (92st)

First Course

Diver Scallop Carpaccio

Apple Jelly, Sea Beans, Crispy Quinoa and Cilantro

2009 Blanc de Lynch Bages

Second Course

Sweetbread and Foie Gras Agnolotti

Fall Root Brunoise, Black Truffle Puree, Aged Parmegiano

2009 Montrose (100rp)

2009 Lynch Bages (99ws)

2009 Leoville Barton (95+rp)

2009 Ormes de Pez (95ws)

2009 Langoa Barton (93ws)

2009 Tronquoy Lalande (93rp)

Third Course

Roasted Venison Loin

Porcini-Bacon Tort, Caramelized Pear, “Grand Veneur” Sauce

2001 Lynch Bages (90ws)

2001 Leoville Barton (92rp)

2001 Montrose (94ws)

Artisanal Cheese Selection

1996 Lynch Bages (94rp)

1996 Montrose (95ws)

1996 Langoa Barton

Dessert Course

Pain de Genes, Chestnut Honey Ice Cream, Coconut Crisp

2007 Suduiraut Sauternes (95ws)

On Sunday, Oct 2 at 7pm, I’m teaming up with Teiichi Sakurai and the Tei An staff to present a special dinner of authentic and progressive Japanese cuisine, paired with saké. Our emphasis this year will be on saké from the Tohoku region, which was devastated by disasters earlier this year. The overall effect of those events on the quality and availability of Tohoku saké won’t be known until at least next year, so we’ll savor these 2011 brews while we still can. As a side note, we’re drinking brews produced prior to the disasters–there should be no contamination concerns.

Menu and details below.

Here’s the proposed menu

Course 1: Otoshi Appetizer
Course 2: Seasonal sashimi (Chef won’t say of what, only “whatever I can get that day that’s great.”)
Course 3: Seasonal terrine
Course 4: Uni (sea urchin) risotto with shrimp.
Course 5: Gibier (wild game)
Course 6: Choice of soba
Course 7: dessert

Paired with at least five sakés, again, focusing on brews from the Tohoku region.

I’m excited to apply my saké skills to a menu from this great chef.
Cost will be $100 pp + tax & gratuity.

Please reserve with Tei An. Specify the Oct 2nd saké dinner.

Each course will be paired with a beer selection from her prized cellar and will include:

jump for the menu…

First course:

Pate de canard and chicharrones de pato (duck pate with crispy duck pork rinds) paired with Transatlantique Kreik, a spontaneously fermented Lambic ale made with Polish cherries

Second course:

Roasted beet salad with an almond gazpacho and white balsamic syrup, served alongside Biere de Mars

Third course:

Breast of Guinea fowl with curried potatoes, arugula puree, and dried mango chutney paired with Super Cru

Fourth course:

Wild California Sturgeon filet with tempura pineapple and a “cherry coke” glaze, served with Dunkel-weiss, a “grand cru dunkel-weiss”

Fifth course:

Pork belly confit with Cannellini beans and a rosemary pesto with roasted grape marmalade served with La Folie

Dessert

Sticky bun bread pudding served with an Abbey Grand Cru.

Tickets for the event are $85, which includes tax and gratuity, and can be purchased by calling 214-628-7900. Tickets are limited, and reservations are required.

The Table has its own super-secret entrance. Photo by Desiree Espada.

Monday night our photographer Desiree Espada dropped by John Tesar’s inaugural dinner at The Table, the 12 8-seat tasting room next to The Commissary. The table was lined with friends including Jennifer and David Uygur (Lucia), Chef Bruno Davaillon (Mansion execuchef), Michael Flynn (Mansion sommelier), Tim Byres (Smoke), Teiichi “Teach” Sakurai (Tei-An), and The “Ubiquitous” Brad. Sarah Reiss from our staff was also invited. Here are the pictures Desiree managed to capture.

The table at The Table. Photo by Desiree Espada

The Tesar at The Table. Photo by Desiree Espada.

Celebrity guests behind the secret curtain. Photo by Desiree Espada.

The Tesar pours the wine between David and Jennifer Uygur, Bruno Davaillon. Michael Flynn takes a photo; The Brad's shoulder. Photo by Desiree Espada

After midnight at The Table: Jennifer Uygur, Bruno Davaillon, and Tim Byres. Photo by Desiree Espada.

Veuve Clicquot Champagne reception at Buffalo Gap Wine & Food Summit.

Last night was the fancy kick-off Champagne reception followed by a 5-course seated dinner in a luxurious tent behind Perini Ranch Steakhouse. The 50-mph winds died down just as the first bottle of Veuve Clicqout popped and the crowd of close to 200 walked the grounds of Lisa and Tom Perini’s ranch. This is the 7^th annual Food & Wine Summit at Buffalo Gap organized by the late Fess Parker of Fess Parker Winery & Vineyards, Dr. Richard Becker of Becker Vineyards, and Lisa and Tom Perini of Perini Ranch Steakhouse.

Special guests included Jacques Pepin and his daughter Claudine. In their honor Dallas chef Stephan Pyles created an “Inspirations from France” menu (pictures below) and each dish was paired with wines from Texas, France, or California (or all three!). The evening was emceed by Master Sommelier and Glazer’s guru Guy Stout and Tiffany Collins of the Texas Beef Council. The highlight of the evening was a surprise appearance by the Hardin Simmons Cowboy band (video below). The red dust floor went flying as diners stood up to dance. Even Jacques and Claudine took a little waltz across the Texas dirt.

I’m a hardened veteran when it comes to food and wine events, but last evening’s dinner was not only unique, it made me proud to be a Texan. We make some fabulous wine. And food.

Go below for the show.

My place at the table.

Amuse Bouche Mussel soup shooter with saffron Wines: Brennan Vineyards, Viognier 2009 (Texas); Perrin & Fils Reserve Cote du Rhone Blanc 2009 (France)

Foie gras mousse with candied bacon, truffle brioche, and kumquat marmalade Wines: Coquerel Family Wine Estates, Terrior Coquerel, Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (Napa Valley); John Anthony Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Napa Valley)

Salmon rillettes with roasted beet-potato salad and mustard caviar Wines: E. Guigal, Gigondas, 2006 (France); Becker Vineyards, Reserve Grenache, Tallent Vineyard, 2009 (Texas; Rowland Cellars, Ramspeck, Pinot Noir, 2009 (Napa Valley)

Grilled beef with bordelaise and braised oxtail. Wild mushroom tart. Wines: Fess Parker Vineyards, Epiphany Gypsy Red Rhone Blend, 2007 (Santa Barbara County); Ladera Vineyards, Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Napa Valley); Delas Freres, Cote du Rhone Rouge 2008 (France)

Simca’s Mont Blanc with macadamia nut brittle and blackberries Wine: Truchard Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Carneros/Napa)

ORGANIZERS DANCE AND KISS!

We did decant the wine, often not the norm with young bottles, but perhaps should be as the air can help bring a young wine along.  Throughout the course of dinner the taste of the wine changed from a licorice, cherry and cedar heavy wine to a slightly softer, more balanced wine, still with lots of dark fruit but also layers of nutmeg, black pepper and cola.     

Fresh Mozarella, Basil, Heirloom Tomato and 12 Year Balsamic Vinegar

2007 Napa Cabs are also perfect pairing partners to dishes that go beyond just steak, though steak is still an ideal pairing.  Why is steak so good with Cabernet Sauvignon?  Cab is a big, full bodied wine usually with pronounced fruit flavors married with licorice, leather, cedar and spice from oak aging, common with Cabernet.  But, steak isn’t the only pairing for Cabernet, a perfectly grilled cedar plank salmon is a great pairing for the non-meat eater.  Salmon is a fattier, heavier fish that can handle the weight and richness of a Cab, the cedar plank adds a smokey earthiness accentuating the spice in the wine.   

Cedar Plank Atlantic Salmon with Tomato Fennel Relish

Capital Grille has many options to fit either the fish or the beef path.  We opted for a spicy ancho rubbed filet with bacon-jalapeno polenta. Bursting with flavor, and heat, the spice rub brought out the spicy black pepper and nutmeg flavors in the wine.  We also tried a cedar plank salmon, cooked perfectly medium rare, with a fennel and tomato relish, highlighting the licorice, fruit and smokiness of the wine. 

Each bottle of the Artist Series is individually numbered, and displays the label created from the artwork by Patricia Timbrook, winner of the Artist Series artwork competition that Capital Grille hosted.  This special wine is available now exclusively at The Capital Grille.

Monday night Kate Derby Raymond of Spring Valley Vineyards, granddaughter of vineyard owners Dean and Shari Corkrum Derby and great-great-granddaughter of founder Uriah Corkrum of Spring Valley in Walla Walla, teamed with the folks at Perry’s Steakhouse and Grille for a lavish 5-course dinner featuring both the red wines of Spring Valley Vineyards and the white wines of their sister winery, Chateau St. Michelle. 

While sipping a crisp and dry Erocia Riesling Kate talked about the history of Spring Valley, a 1000 acre of wheat farm started by her family in the late 1800’s.  In 1993 her grandparents decided to take a chance and see if a few of these acres could produce wine.  In 2000 they debuted their Nina Lee Syrah, in 2001 Frederick, their Cabernet blend and in 2003 Uriah, their Merlot blend all from estate grown fruit.  Today about 115 acres are planted with grapes producing lush, expressive Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah.  Merlot and Syrah are two grapes that really shine in Washington, capturing great minerality from the soil, with herbal notes and intense fruit flavors. 

Spring Valley Vineyards Nina Lee Syrah

Production remains small, about 6000 total cases, with all of the wines named for a family member or for a historical reference, for instance their Muleskinner Merlot is named because Kate’s great-grandfather was the head Muleskinner, driving the mules for their wheat farming before tractors were around.   Though Kate was raised outside of Walla Walla, she would spend summers with her grandparents on the ranch, eventually leading her to move to Walla Walla, join their team and become a part of the next generation to run the Spring Valley farm.  The favorite red of the night was the 2007 Uriah Merlot based blend filled with fresh berries, wild flower and herbal aromas, followed by raspberry, chocolate and bing cherry flavors with a hint of caramel on the finish from the 18 months of 100% French oak aging prior to release.  Perry’s paired this with a fork tenderPrime Strip Suvee over baby mache with pickled beets and goat cheese.  The subtlety of the steak balanced with the round flavors of the wine beautifully.   The Chateau St. Michelle Canoe Ridge Estate Chardonnay was also a stand out with the pairing of Kona Hamachi in a ginger-kumquat vinaigrette with kiwi, cilantro and hazelnuts.  The spice of the ginger brought out a hint of spice in the tropical fruit rich white, with the delicate fish accentuating the creaminess of the wine. 

Perry's Kona Hamachi with Ginger-Kumquat Vinaigrette

Tuesday night David “Merf” Merfeld, winemaker for Northstar and Marcus Notaro, winemaker for ColSolare joined Chef Brian and Courtney Luscher at The Grape for a spot-on pairing dinner. 

Northstar has been making high quality, distinctive Merlot in Walla Walla since their inaugural vintage in 1994.  Merf is a champion for Washington State Merlot, explaining that the Columbia Valley area on the Eastern side of Washington State is ideal for the grape with free-draining, mineral rich soils,  limited rainfall (about 7 inches a year), 17.5 hours of sunlight in the summer with temperatures ranging from a high in the hundred degree range during the day and a low in the mid fifties at night, allow grapes to develop intense flavors with balanced acidity and a vivid-full body.  The 2007 Northstar Columbia Valley Merlot is extremely rich and concentrated, with blackberry, cherry and plum aromas with nutty, chocolate and cherry flavors layered with a hint of fresh herbs like mint and sage.  This was paired with an aromatic Parmesan Gnocchi with house made Sweet n’ Spicy Italian Sausage in an Arugula Pesto Cream.  The light, creamy pillows of gnocchi with the fresh, herbal pesto married with the herbal notes in the wine, creating an elegant pairing, highlighting the full-flavors and roundness of the wine.

Parmesan Gnocchi with Italian Sausage and Roasted Peppers in an Arugula Cream at The Grape

ColSolare is a joint winery venture between Italian wine master Marchesi Antinori and Washington States Chateau St. Michelle, begun in 1995.  Their goal was to produce an intense, vibrant Cabernet Sauvignon based wine from the best fruit in Washington State.  In 2007  the team opened the winery on the estate vineyard in Red Mountain, a sub-AVA in the Columbia Valley on the Eastern side of Washington.  With strict attention to quality and detail, they are producing complex, expressive Cabernet Sauvignon, accuratenly representing the vision that Antinori and Chateau St. Michelle had when they started.  Though the ColSolare Red Wine is bold, it is also refined and subtle with black cherry and licorice layered with silky milk chocolate.  Paired with a Herb and Garlic Pork Roast with Shiitake Risotto the earthy flavors of the wine are revealed, with hints of coffee, spice and violets.

If that is just not enough to satisfy your wine and food palate join the dynamic Jim Severson at Sevy’s Grill  on March 22nd for wine dinner featuring August Briggs.  The four course dinner will feature the current releases of August Briggs, paired with delicacies including seared California halibut with Cioppino broth, Dungenous crab and crispy fennel, paired with crisp Leveroni Chardonnay; mushroom ravioli with Humbolt Fog Cheve cream paired with an earthy Dijon clones Pinot Noir and a Strube Ranch strip steak paired with the bold and elegant Monte Russon Cabernet Sauvignon.  Reservations recommended, 214-265-7389.

March 22nd is also a special night for the Secchi family, as Stefano Secchi, formerly the executive chef at the family restaurant, Ferrari’s Italian Villa  in Grapevine, visits from his new home in Los Angeles to cook a special dinner with his father, Francesco.  The duo will prepare Sardinian and Italian favorites from Francesco’s childhood growing up in Sardinia, including Zuppa di Arselle – little neck clams with red onions and rapini, Burate con Guanciale Enoci with Trufflebert Farm hazelnuts, Gnudi con Arragosta – ricotta gnocchi with lobster and fennel, Agnello al Forno – oven roasted lamb chops, and ending with spectacular Crepes Flambe.  Each course will be paired with one of Francesco’s favorite wines from Sardinia.  Reservations recommended, 817-251-2525.

Starting March 21st at The Capital Grille  guests can order a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, created for their second annual artist series with $25 of every bottle sold going to Share Our Strength, an organization dedicated to ending childhood hunger in America.  This year’s Cabernet was created by wine maker Thomas Peffer of Atalon Vineyards in Napa, with help from Capital Grille Master Sommelier, George Miliotes, with the label designed by Patricia Timbrook, a Florida based artist that created a piece called Pairings, apearing on each individually numbered bottle.

Join Brian and Courtney Luscher at The Grapeon March 29th as they welcome Washington State wine making superstars, David “Merf” Merfeld from Northstar Winery and Marcos Notaro from Col Solare for their monthly “Come as you are” 3 course wine dinner.  Both of these wineries are known for making stellar red wine from rich Washington soil in and around Columbia Valley.  Reservations recommended, 214-828-1981.

I am crazy about Italian wine…from Tuscany to Piemonte to Veneto to Umbria to Abruzzo, the wines of Italy are exciting, intriguing and created in a classic, Old World style with strict traditions, ensuring the flavors of the wine represent the land and its people.  This is sure to be a special night highlighting these flavors. Cost, as always, is $45 per person and reservations are recommended, 214-828-1981.

Chef Matt McCallister

Matt McCallister, former Executive Chef at Stephan Pyles and creator of Fuego, will soon be off on a culinary, year long tour cooking beside some of the best chefs in the country.  However before he leaves to cook beside Chef Sean Brock, 2010 winner of the James Beard Best Chef in the Southteast Award, at McGrady’s in Charleston, SC; beside Chef Grant Achatz at Alinea in Chicago; and a 3 month stint staging inside The French Laundry in Napa, he wants to “play”‘ a bit with some of his Dallas pals. 

Chef McCallister will cook beside Chef J. Chastain at Second Floor Bistro, and one of my neighborhood favorites, Abraham Salum, Chef/Owner of Salum for a few fun, innovative dinners.  The Chefs will team styles and ideas to create their own playful, Fuego-like experience.   The multi-course meal will highlight each chef’s imagination, style and flavors through a collaboration of methods, techniques and camaraderie, and each will feature chef/guest interaction. 

The dinners with Chef Chastain will occur January 14th and 15th; with Chef Salum will be March 3rd, and seating is limited. Cost is $125 for each dinner, $175 with wine pairings and reservations are available through each restaurant – Second Floor Bistro – 972-450-2978; Salum – 214-252-9604.

Jump for the menu:

Beignet de Fruits de Mer
Crispy Tempura of Oyster, Shrimp and Lobster Claw, Tarragon Remoulade Sauce
Veuve Cliquot, Yellow Label

Crispy Duck Leg Confit
Roasted Mushroom Polenta, Brussels Sprouts, Bacon and Armagnac Poached Prunes
Moet & Chandon, Rose Imperial

Toasted Almond Soufflé
Dark Chocolate – Dipped Strawberry and Almond Tuile Mignardise
Moet & Chandon, Semi-Sec Imperial

$60/person

Seatings begin at 7 pm; reservations are a must. Call to book: 213-529-8999

The Moth's cicerone, Matt Quenette, only looks innocent.

I thought about this post a lot yesterday as I lay in bed for 17 hours with the blinds drawn and a cool, dark pillow over my head. I could see it all so clearly: by hook or by crook, Schlabs and Quenette (respectively, the Meddlesome Moth’s co-owner and cicerone) are bound and determined to do me in with their Satan-in-a-Sunday-hat charm and invitations to rare beer tastings.

Exhibit A: Wednesday’s once-in-a-lifetime Saint Arnold Vintage Divine Reserve tasting — nine beers paired course by course with seared jumbo sea scallops, Scotch eggs, and individual pumpkin pies — co-conceived by special guest Saint Arnold owner/brewmaster Brock Wagner and the Moth’s Chef Chad Kelley.

It’s really best if I let the menu — which, it must be noted, would have sucked the restraint out of Norman Vincent Peale — speak for itself:

jump for the menu…

English barleywine

Belgo-American quadruppel paired with a seared jumbo sea scallop with parsnip puree and a golden raisin compote.

Double IPA paired with jalapeno-bread grilled cheese with Tillamook cheddar, braised shank, caramelized onions, and arugula.

Wee heavy paired with speck, brie, and grainy mustard.

Russian imperial stout paired with orange-scented chevre and crushed walnuts.

American barleywine paired with a Scotch egg with a jalapeno-deviled yolk.

Weizenbock paired with aged Manchego and fig jam.

Scotch ale paired with a black-pepper-brisket Reuben on Jewish rye.

And, finally, an imperial pumpkin stout paired with a pumpkin tasse and candied pecans.

I’m exhausted just recounting it. In fact, I think I need to lie down under my desk. Clearly, the strength of the private reserves (not one was under 8 percent alcohol; most were 10) and richness of Kelley’s menu points to a thinly veiled plot designed to knock me out of commission. Well played, gentlemen. You succeeded.

At this point, those without a sense of humor will feel compelled to remind me that a) I could have cried “uncle” at any time,  b) Schlabs and Quenette are fine, upstanding young men, c) any after-effects are my own damn fault, and d) the world does not, in fact, revolve around me.

Those people are no fun at all.

The takeaway: that it’s a good idea to check the Moth’s website for more events of this kind. And while this one was invitation only (seats at this table of 15 went for $85 each and disappeared before Captain Keith even finished writing the invitation list), the Moth hosts scads more that are open to all. Keep a keen eye out for the next one.

And if I’m going to be completely honest here, yesterday’s infirmity had more to do with a seasonal bug than it did with overindulgence. But what’s a Friday afternoon for if not exaggeration and good-natured finger pointing.

Thanks to Schlabs for inviting me to be his guest at this event.