D

Il Frateli v City of Coppell

From the copy and paste press release department:

Huge Fine for Holding a Sign? Coppell Official’s Harassment Causes Layoffs.

i Fratelli Pizza feels “chilling effect” through unprovoked vendetta

COPPELL, TX   Did a Coppell City official lean on a code enforcement officer to fine the manager of a locally owned i Fratelli Pizza $2,000.00 because there was a lone employee holding a sign in front of the store? (more…)

Jack’s Porch Restaurant Opens in Southlake With a Lawsuit

A couple of months ago, a Disher in Colleyville asked me if I knew where Jack’s Porch was opening in her area. I did what most reputable reporters do, I Googled. I did find job listings for a Jack’s Porch but no address. Then I forgot about it. This morning a Disher with a head for the law and a bod for Law & Order sends word that Jack of Jack’s Porch is Jack Layman, the former manager of Rockfish in Southlake, and he has been slapped with a lawsuit for violating his employment contract. Layman quit his job at Rockfish and opened Jack’s Porch across the street with a Rockfish-rip-off menu. Rockfish is claiming Layman has violated his employment contract which prohibits him from working at another restaurant within 10 miles.

New Federal Trade Commission Guidelines and Food Writers

The Federal Trade Commission recently updated its “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.” If you are a blogger, freelance writer, advertising copy writer, or professional writer you need to read the document, especially if you accept complimentary products such as food, wine, or free dinners. The revised rules require you to disclose how you received the products you review or endorse. Scott, over at Dallasfood.org has a brilliant analysis of the document.

Let me give you an example what happens here at D headquarters on a regular basis. Let’s say a box of cupcakes, a package of chocolate, or bag of food samples arrives with a note from the store owner or publicist. Everyone in the office goes bonkers and whatever is delivered disappears in about 2 seconds. If we don’t post anything on SideDish, I generally receive a “follow-up” note like this:

Hi Nancy, I just wanted to follow up on the “Insert Name” “Insert Item” that we sent last week from “Insert Company” and get your thoughts/feedback on the new flavors. We think it would make an interesting post on SideDish or an article for your magazine. We’d love to hear what you thought of them and see if they might be a fit for an upcoming story or mention. “Insert Company” will be expanding and owner “Insert Name” is hoping to open more locations soon.  We appreciate any comments you have!

If someone on the SideDish staff decides to write about the product, they now have to mention the fact that the food was not paid for by D Magazine. If we don’t, we violate the Federal Trade Commission Act and could receive a fine.

At the risk of calling in the food police, I will say that we have always run a tight ship around here. We’ve always paid for food we review and I do not attend media dinners or accept complimentary dinners. We have sent a copy of the FTC guidelines to our attorney to make sure we comply with all of the rules.

But here is one rub—I’ve already heard that some bloggers and indie food writers are finding ways to get around the rules by posting one small disclaimer somewhere on their webpage and not in the copy of the item. So readers beware. Ask questions. It’s a jungle out there.

Posting Reader Complaints: Good Idea or Bad Idea?

Yesterday I posted a Disher’s complaint about Zorba’s. Several commenters disagreed with the anonymous complainant and the owner, Pavlos Guiatas, posted a rebuttal. I thought, in the end, it was a discussion that provoked interest in Zorba’s.

I hate to say that I’m smart, but I receive a lot of e-mails from people trying to cyber-bash a restaurant. Usually I can tell if the note comes from someone on the inside or a disgruntled employee—they tend to know too much and the note is usually a personal attack and not a general complaint about an experience.

So, I ask you. I view this space as an open forum for discussion. Do I post anonymous complaints? Do I e-mail them back and say “I will post your complaint if you give me your real name?” Or do I hit delete? It’s your space. Define it.

Dining Critics and Anonymity: Does it Really Matter Anymore?

Sometimes you feel like a duck. Sometimes you don’t.

I find it interesting that two high-profile dining critics are changing their tune about the importance of remaining anonymous. Maybe it’s because they are no longer high-profile dining critics. Former New York Times dining critics Ruth Reichl and Frank Bruni have been giving interviews with quotes such as these:

“Dining companions are not good covert operations agents,” Bruni says. It’s one of the many reasons Bruni no longer feels restaurant critics can remain anonymous.

Is Bruni paving the way for his successor Sam Sifton? Before Sifton took over as the Times critic, he was the cultural news editor and deputy dining editor. His head shot was plastered all over the paper and the web. Sifton was forced into wearing disguises before he wrote his first lead review.

I believe anonymity is important—I have a closet full of clothes, glasses, and wigs to prove it. As a magazine editor, I have interviewed a lot of chefs in Dallas. I have even traveled with a few to do feature stories. As a dining critic, I have managed to slip past them in their restaurants and review them. (Hi Avner! Hi Dean!) That said, even when I am recognized (Hi, Kent!), which is not very often, it doesn’t always guarantee the restaurant will provide a perfect dining experience. Just because there is a dining critic in a restaurant doesn’t make the chef a better chef or the menu a better menu. Service might step up a notch, but it has been my experience that servers overcompensate and make more mistakes when they know they are serving a critic.

Most restaurant critics don’t get busted by personal appearance, they are outed by their behavior. Asking too many questions upfront and ordering too much food are dead giveaways to perceptive servers. A critic also has to be careful what they say at the table. You never know who is sitting next to you or what they will say to the manager, chef, or owner.

Servers, what do you think? Chefs? Fire away. Dishers, take your best shot.

(BTW, love this.)

Whistle! Foul on Blog Editor Mike Hiller! Dishers, I Need a Ruling.

Dining critics at work.

Yesterday l linked to a post by chef Brian Luscher on former DMN dining critic Mike Hiller’s website Escapehatchdallas.com. While most of the people who left comments agreed with Luscher, I received several e-mails from “professionals” who were a bit concerned about the line “Taking scalps just because you have a hatchet isn’t the same as writing a fair review.” I wrote to both Hiller and Luscher and asked them to clarify and Hiller responded in the comments section. He writes:

“It seems to me Luscher was directing his comments primarily at those bloggers and casual Web commenters who don’t feel any obligation to present fair, comprehensive reviews.” And on his site he writes“…the scalp/hatchet comment, well, that was added for spice in the final edit and has since been removed.”

Couple of questions. If Luscher was directing his comments primarily at bloggers, why does the opening sentence contain “professional restaurant critics and amateur online reviewers”? Also, Hiller admits to adding what I feel is a pretty provocative line (scalp/hatchet) to post with Luscher’s byline. Methinks he put the restaurant owner in a hot seat.  And putting words he didn’t say in his mouth. Foul or fair? Hit it.

Dallasfood.org Plays a Guessing Game: Loft 610 vs. Abacus

The Great Scott over at Dallasfood.org, the vortex of local food knowledge, has posted a fun guessing game.  He has printed a menu and asked readers to pick which items are on Tre Wilcox’s new menu at Loft 610 and which items are on the menu at Abacus. (For new players, Tre was once the execuchef at Abacus.) Go and play. It’s perfect for a rainy day.

Former Dallas Restaurant Critics: Mary Brown Malouf

Mary Brown Malouf at my high school graduation.

I’ve been at my post here at D Magazine for 13 years. Sometime I wonder how many calories I have eaten; other times I wonder how many of those calories were actually worth ingesting. Restaurant reviewers eat more low-to-medium quality food than spectacular meals.

Anywhoo, in the post below, I mentioned Michael Hiller. He used to be a critic at the DMN. Over the years, I’ve seen lots of “critics” come and go. Anyone remember Betty Cook? Suzanne Hough (R.I.P)? Dave Faries? (Oh, he’s still here.) Or Mary Brown Malouf?

Mary was a real biyatch when she wrote dining reviews for the Dallas Observer. When she came to work at D in the late 90s, we became good friends. But Mary ditched D and Dallas and she’s now the Food and Travel editor at Salt Lake City Magazine. I just looked on their site and found a classic Mary Brown Malouf rant.  Gosh, I’m all nostalgic. Call me, Bill.

How about you? Who do you miss? Who do you love? Who do you hate?

Is the City of Dallas Health Department Shutting Down Local Farmers Markets?

I’ve been hearing rumors for weeks that city officials were making the rounds and visiting the small farmers markets that have cropped up in spots such as Celebration, Bolsa, and North Haven Gardens. Now comes official word from Ed Lowe of Celebration. They have shut him down and he’s going to the Dallas City Council.

The City of Dallas Health Department has decided that the Celebration Farmers Market is in violation of certain codes. Celebration was told on 2 previous occasions that we could operate a Farmers Market in our parking lot under our existing permits. We strongly believe that all food handling practices and food products at the Farmers Market were perfectly safe. We have complied strictly with all Health Department codes for 38 years and take our responsibility to public health VERY SERIOUSLY.

We appreciate the warm welcome and support that you’ve provided our Saturday Farmers Market. We believe that what we along with our wonderful vendors are offering is a safe, fun and convenient setting for you to purchase healthy, delicious, local produce and other products.

We are going to approach the Dallas City Council to explore how the code can be modified to allow the Celebration Farmers Markets and others like us to provide a valuable service to the citizens of Dallas while protecting the public health.

I have contacted Ed and asked him for instructions on how you can sign the petition he plans to take to the Dallas City Council. Stay tuned. (OMG, I can hear Amy Severson already.)

Dallas Observer 2009 Best of Dallas® Food List: What do You Think?

Please don’t sue me for using your cover art.

I’m stuck at home in my little glass house. I see a few pebbles on the floor and I think I will toss them.

I just scanned through the Dallas Observer’s 2009 Best of Dallas® Food list. It reminds me of that Who song. What is it, Kirk? Something about the new boss and the old boss? YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH! Bomp, bomp, bomp. YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!

Dave Fairies, I have a quick question: Does the Observer repeat “Bests” if, when the next year rolls around, no one else  fills the category as “Better®?” (That’s mine, dude.)  This is a serious question and I ask it because I have to deal with the beast of ‘Bests” and understand the difficulty at uncovering them. So, Mr. Fairies, do you roll over “Bests” from year to year by moving them into different categories or because they are the “Best” of their original category? Let’s go through the list together and see. Jump with me. It’s not far. (more…)

Restaurant Reviews: When is it “Legal” to Review a New Restaurant?

“Talking to myself and feeling old/Sometimes I’d like to quit/Nothing ever seems to fit/Hangin’ around, nothing to do but frown/Rainy days and Mondays always get me down”—The Carpenters

I am feeling so Karen Carpenter today. Not skinny, just beat down. It all started on Saturday when I ended up in lengthy conversation with a veteran Dallas restaurateur on the “rules” surrounding a restaurant review. He/She shall remain nameless.

Anywhoo, He/She had a (loud) question for me: “Hey, since when did it become okay for a restaurant critic to review a restaurant during the first week of operation?” I had no idea what He/She was talking about so I asked, “What do you mean.” He/She raged on incredulously: “Well Leslie Brenner went to Park the first week it opened and based a lot of her review on what happened during the first week.”

“Whoa, hold on,” I said. “I have not read Brenner’s review because I have not written mine. Until I do, I’m not comfortable talking about it.”

“Well, then let’s make this a hypothetical case,” He/She said. “When do you consider it fair to go into a new restaurant and judge it?” My first reaction was to say as long as a restaurant charges a full price, they are fair game. However, I knew that I was dealing with a seasoned restaurateur who was ready to shoot down that standard line so I said boldly, “Whenever the restaurant charges a customer a full price, they are fair game.” (Jump here.) (more…)

Dallas Institute Presents Dr. James McWilliams

I hope you listened to Think the other day when Krys Boyd talked with Dr. James McWilliams about his new book Just Food: Where Locavores Get It Wrong and How We Can Truly Eat Responsibly.  You can still download the podcast but, better yet, you can make plans to hear Dr. McWilliams at the Dallas Institute of Culture and Humanities on November 6th from 6:30—8:00 p.m.

Dr. McWilliams will be joined by spokespersons from other environmental fields and the panel will discuss such topics as “What does it truly mean to eat responsibly?” There will be an opening reception at 6:00 p.m. and Dr. McWilliams will be signing copies of his book. It’s a bargain: Institute & Forum Members: $20, Nonmembers: $25, Member Teachers: $7. 214 871-2440. See you there.

State Fair of Texas: New Food Fight

The finalists for the Fifth Annual Big Tex Choice Awards were announced yesterday. A panel of three judges will decide Best Taste and Most Creative winners on Labor Day.

Perhaps we should have our own little voter’s poll below. Let’s Ranch It Up for these tasty tidbits. Or submit one of your own. Go crazy. Be creative–let’s try for 67 comments. K? Go.
Real Contestants:

Green Goblins – Cherry peppers are hollowed out, stuffed with spicy shredded chicken and guacamole, then battered and deep fried. Served three to a skewer and topped with queso.
Deep Fried Butter – 100% pure butter is whipped till light and fluffy, then specially sweetened with a choice of several flavors. The tantalizing mixture is surrounded by a special dough and quick fried. Served on a stick.
Twisted Yam on a Stick – A delicious, towering, spiral-cut sweet potato on a 13” skewer is fried to a delicate crispy texture, then gently rolled in butter and dusted with cinnamon and sugar.
Fernie’s Deep Fried Peaches & Cream – Sweet juicy peaches are coated in a delicious batter of cinnamon, ginger, coconut, graham cracker crumbs, eggs & milk, then deep fried to a crunchy golden brown on the outside, while luscious and sweet on the inside. Served on a plate drizzled with raspberry sauce and sprinkled with streusel topping & a dollop of whipped cream. A side of vanilla butter cream icing is provided for dipping.
Texas Fried Pecan Pie – A mini-pecan pie is battered and deep fried to a golden brown. Served drizzled with rich caramel sauce, then topped with whipping cream and chopped candied pecans.
Country Fried Pork Chips – Thin sliced pork loin is seasoned, surrounded by a tasty corn meal batter and deep fried. Served with sides of ketchup or cream gravy.
Sweet Jalapeno Corn Dog Shrimp – Shrimp on a stick is coated with a sweet and spicy corn meal batter, then deep fried to a golden brown and served with a spicy glaze.
Fried Peanut Butter Cup Macaroon – A peanut butter cup is wrapped inside a coconut macaroon fried and dusted with powdered sugar. Also available with a scoop of Blue Bell ice cream.

Listen to James McWilliams on Think

I wrote this item yesterday and forgot to post it:

Eat before you “Think” or “Think” before you eat? Today that’s a tough question:  James McWilliams, author of the new book  Just Food: Where Locovores Get it Wrong and How We Can Truly Eat Responsibly, is Krys Boyd’s guest at 12:00 noon on Think. (KERA 90.1) McWilliams, a fellow in the Agrarian Studies Program at Yale University, is currently an associate professor at Texas State and he has some thought provoking ideas on food systems. If you would like a little background info before the show, check out Crunchy Con, Rod Dreher’s interview that ran in April. (Rod, how is the chicken business?)

My apologies to Krys. However, you can download the interview here.

Pegasus News is Desperate for Comments: Develops “Outbursts”

Mike Orren needs your help. Keep your comments on SideDish.

I thought I was desperate for attention! Mike Orren, the wizard behind the Oz over at Pegasus News, has found another outlet for his ADHD—it’s called Outbursts. The feature is designed especially for your prefrontal cortex and encourages “verified users” to “post news and links on any local topic you like. All you have to do is click the “Post an Outburst” link on the Outbursts page.”  According to this “complete guide to ADHD site” symptoms of the disorder include “blurting out inappropriate comments, show their emotions without restraint, and act without regard for consequences.” Check out Outbursts and leave your scathing comments here. Remember, we have prizes and they don’t!

Let’s Play on SideDish: Guessing Games and Prizes for Comments

Last week was a very slow news week. To spice things up, I played a few games like “Guess the Best Onion Rings Restaurant ” and “What is the Worst Meal You Ever Ate.” It was so fun that we spun off a game inside the game: “Uncle Nancy’s 67th Commenter.” If a person became the 67th commenter, they got a prize. Why 67? As my mom used to say, “Because.”

However, like in all games, somebody broke the rules. Chef Brian Luscher of The Grape posted 11 times straight to hit 67 and then expected to win. Obviously fame has gone to his (beat, beat) head. I scolded him in the thread. He feels so bad he offers this as an apology:

Tio Nancy,
You wrote: “Luscher, out of the game. To the showers. Disqualified. Call Pat Sharpe and have her take you to Wingfield’s. Best Burger? Make onion rings like these and we’ll talk.”

Ouch. Please forgive my double espresso fueled bout of mid- Restaurant Week buffoon-ery.  I hope I didn’t ruin your tea party.  Here is what I propose to remain in the good graces of you and your constituency of SideDish Nationales;

1. I will make you those exact onion rings. [it's a secret how I will pull it off]
2. I am inviting you and your “Be the 67th Commenter” winners in for burgers and said onion rings.
3. I will provide 10 gift certificates for burgers at The Grape for the next ten commenters.

Yow. Zah. HERE ARE THE RULES. Over the next few weeks, I’ll post a question designed to attract a zillion comments. Each time a person becomes the 67th commenter, they will be eligible for special dinner at The Grape. [So far, we have three “Uncle Nancy’s 67th Commenter” winners:  Sexy Jeff (Worst Meal), Brad (Onion rings), and George (Best Meal).]

To get warmed up, get goin’ on Luscher’s deal. The first ten commenters today get gift certificates to The Grape.

JW Foster of the Pyramid Restaurant at the Fairmont Hotel Wins Best Caesar Salad in Dallas Competition

When life gives JW Foster lemons, he (center) makes Caesar Salad.(Thanks to Lee Fuqua for the photo.)

JW Foster of the Pyramid Restaurant and Bar at the Fairmont Hotel won the title of Best Caesar in Dallas at the 18th annual Caesar Salad Competition presented by those wacky and wonderful folks at the AIWF. Why did JW win? “Because he made the best salad,” said attendee Lee Fuqua. “We didn’t eat any of the side dishes we just ate the salads and judged the salads.”

You see a few years ago, chefs that entered the competition began to add charming side dishes such as foie gras and lobster to their salad. Once the voting public had downed a glass or two of wine they were so happy to bite into a mass of protein, they would vote for the sexy protein and not the salad. A huge rift developed in the voting masses that flock to this annual event.

But it sounds like JW Foster wooed lettuce lovers back to a semi-straightforward Caesar with his version that, according to the Teegster, “consisted of Romaine hearts dressed with anchovies, Dijon mustard, garlic, egg yolks, Texas extra virgin olive oil, Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces, vinegar, lemon juice and lemon zest, Texas “parmesan” and Romano cheeses with rosemary brioche croutons.”

Daniel Nemec of Kirby’s Steak House took second place and Eric Dreyer of Fearing’s at the Ritz Carlton came in third. For the next year, FW Foster will reign over a peaceful Caesar Salad-lovin’ community.

The Best Onion Rings in Dallas? Guess the Restaurant!

Diamonds in the rough.

Eat these now.

I love onion rings. I love them big and tall. I love them greasy and small. Recently I ordered onion rings at a restaurant in Dallas and I was shocked—these are the best rings I’ve had in Dallas in a long time. Since Restaurant Week basically kills the food news biz, let’s play another game today: Can you guess where these onion rings were cooked? Go. Somebody will win something.

WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER:

GJ @ August 27th, 2009 at 3:30 pm _

Turning the Tables: What is the Best Meal You Ever Ate in Dallas?

Okay, Dishers, let’s hit this one out to the cheap seats. Here are some of my most memorable bites in Dallas:

Steak au poivre with fried parsley at Ewald’s.
Chris Ward’s halibut at The Mercury.
Chiles rellenos at original Matt’s.
Wingfield’s burger. (Pat Sharpe, you blew it.)
Every meal I ate when Avner Samuel was the chef at The Mansion.
Pork buns at Yao Fuzi in Plano.
Cinnamon rolls at Southern Kitchen.
Youngblood’s fried chicken.
Kona crusted steak at Capital Grille.
Chicken fried steak and any pie at Ranchman’s in Ponder.

What is the Worst Meal You Ever Ate in a Dallas Restaurant?

I am asked this question many times. My taste memory is alive and not-so-well with memories of malicious meals that I not only ate, I paid good money to “eat.” So far, the worst meal I have ever experienced was served to me at gone-and-hopefully-forgotten Traci’s: scorched lobster shepherd’s pie and a spinach salad covered with old cheese and broiled. This year I’d have to say that the slices of dry pork fanned over a fistful of steamed cauliflower rolled in an ancho chile cream sauce I was served (twice) at Rathbun’s Blue Plate is now on my list along with a piece of wretchedly old bronzini at Bolla.  Et tu, Disher?

(Sign and T-shirts by Ellen Gribbs of Austin.)

Deadline Procrastination Brain Game: Itemize Your Last Supper

Last July, I wrote a post and asked you to itemize your last supper. (I’ll wait here while you read the link.) Okay, so you got the idea, right. What I loved about that post was that our old buddy, Bill “Freckle Face” Addison, chimed in with this:

•  Bill Addison @ July 11th, 2008 at 4:54 pm _

Darn you, N2. This is a question I’ve been meaning to post on our blog. Love this subject. Just for today, here’s my answer:
– Maryland jumbo lump crab salad with blood orange and avocado
– A thali of South Indian curries, mostly vegetables and seafood, like served here.
– A modest plate of Ed Mitchell’s barbecue. A plate of barbecue from City Market in Luling would substitute nicely.
– A small dish of blood orange sorbet
–    A big bowl of peach crisp (with vanilla-bean brown butter poured over the fruit) with vanilla-bourbon ice cream melting atop. Then, curtains.

Sadly, not long after I listed my extensive and expensive requests, my relationship with Bill went, well, curtains. In honor of Bill, who I miss dearly, let us relive the idea of ordering your last meal on earth. What would be on your list? Who would be with you? How do I make my voice do this? (Obviously, I am on deadline and need a distraction.)

GO TEXAN Drinklocalwine.com Conference in Dallas: When is Texas Wine Really Texas Wine?

Andrew Chalk is with me at Drinklocalwine.com. Below is his first report from the conference that took place on Saturday. It’s an interesting topic that needs to be simplified not only for consumers but for “professionals” in the wine business. Let’s rumble.

The web site www.DrinkLocalWine.org exhorts consumers to drink local wine. This weekend the organization held its first annual conference and it happened to be here in Dallas with an emphasis on Texas wine.

However, it can be hard to recognize local wine. If you are at the liquor store and pick up a bottle of wine with the name of a Texas winery on the label the connection with Texas may be almost non-existent. It may actually come from grapes that were not grown in Texas. It may be fermented outside Texas. It may be aged outside Texas. In fact it may even have been labeled outside Texas. In other words, a completely finished wine is imported into Texas and the label says the name of a Texas winery. But none of the viticulture or viniculture had anything to do with Texas. How is the consumer to know where the grapes came from and where the wine was made? (more…)

Are You Going To El Paso?

Go hungry.

KRLD Restaurant Week In Dallas: Love It? Like It? Hate It?

Ferrets are sexually dimorphic predators.

I realize a lot of you love to dine out during KRLD Restaurant Week/Month. You get a three-course meal at these restaurants for $35 and some “proceeds” go to the North Texas Food Bank. Win-win, right?

Over the years, I’ve talked to a many restaurant owners, chefs, and servers who aren’t crazy about the promotion. Perhaps given the current state of business they’ve changed their tune. I’d like to know.

Anywhooo, last year, the finest ferret at PegNews, Teresa “Vicky Christina” Gubbins, wrote the piece I wish I’d written about Restaurant Week. Here is the hot link to her story which officially makes this “Link To Teresa Gubbins Week.”  (Group hug.)

At the risk of going all Eatsblog on you, I would like to know: Why do you like restaurant week? Why do you hate restaurant week?  I will tell you this: it is the worst month of the year to be a dining critic. Okay, let’s rumble like we’re on Las Ramblas.

SideDish, an equal opportunity hot link provider.

Evan Grant Is A Slacker: I Have To Do His Work. Again.

What you guys don’t know is that I was the one that broke Josh Hamilton’s Photo-Gate on InsideCorner last weekend while Evan Grant was face down in a hotel room in Anaheim. So you won’t be surprised when I have to make you aware of Evan’s next promotional gig: Tomorrow,  Pappasito’s Cantina (located at 10433 Lombardy Lane in Dallas) will host a game-watching party featuring former Texas Ranger players. (The current players are in Cleveland.) RUSTY GREER will be there! Fajitas for two will only be $16.25! Evan will be there! It all starts at 5:30 p.m. Admission is free. For additional information call 214-350-1970.