Articles about Food Fight!
Chef Najat Kaanache is Staying at Private Social
Chefs Consulting: Najat Kaanache and Stephan Pyles at Perini Ranch in Buffalo Gap. (photo courtesy of Najat Kaanache.)
Feisty executive chef Najat Kaanache is digging in her heels and staying in the kitchen of Private Social. Kaanache is in the process of putting together a new Awesome Texas Food menu which she will debut next week. I reached Kaanache this morning and we chatted about some of her ideas.
This gal, who writes a blog called The Pilgrim Chef, has some serious credentials. Her parents are Moroccan but she grew up in Spain where her passions for cooking and science collided. She has worked with modernist chefs such as Ferran Adria, Thomas Keller, and Grant Achatz. When I learned of the changes going on at Private Social, I wrote: “I can’t imagine she will stick around to do awesome things with Texas food. Somebody needs to back her in a Moroccan restaurant.”
Color me wrong. Kaanache is turning Texan. She learned a lot about Texas food when she consulted on Stampede 66, Stephan Pyles’ salute to his fifth-generation-awesome-Texas cooking. Pyles is a huge fan of Spanish modernist cooking (miss you, Fuego!) and he has been injecting modernist techniques into his cooking for some time. His Stampede 66 combines the right blend of Texas and weird science.
“I spent several months living in Dallas working as consultant to Stephan Pyles creating his whole menu concept, recipes, and hands-on training his staff for Stampede 66,” Kaanache says. “I even designed a menu with him that we executed together for the Buffalo Gap Wine and Food Summit last year at the Perini Ranch.”
I had to ask: Does Pyles view Kaanache’s Awesome Texas Food as competition?
“I believe he thinks there is competition but there is not competition,” Kaanache says. “He uses more modern techniques than me.”
Pyles sees it differently. “The only competition I’ve seen came when she opened Private Social and she tried to hire away some of my staff,” Pyles says. “My question is why isn’t she doing Moroccan or Spanish. I wouldn’t open a tapas place in San Sebastián or a sushi joint in Tokyo.”
Kaanache is sending details on the new menu and other changes to the restaurant. Whatever they decide to do, Private Social has a big battle ahead of them. I checked the TABC’s Mixed Beverage Tax Receipts for the month of March 2013 which was posted on April 22. The list, which is public information, shows the tax remittances of restaurants with liquor licenses. The amount of the tax paid represents 14 percent of total liquor sales price. (To figure total sales, you divide the amount of the tax by .14.) Private Social paid $3,205.75 which translates into approximately $22,898 total liquor sales. Their next door neighbor, Del Frisco’s Grille, paid $34,303.50 which translates into approximately $245,025 total liquor sales.
Fasten your seatbelts, Dishers. It’s going to be a bumpy road to recovery. (I really wish she would open a Moroccan restaurant.)
UPDATE: Kaanache’s details below. The menu… Continue reading "Chef Najat Kaanache is Staying at Private Social"
Katy Trail Ice House’s Noise is an “Absolute Nightmare,” Says Park Towers Resident
Photography: sign and beer by Trevor Paulhus; patio by Elizabeth Lavin
Looks like Katy Trail Ice House is creating quite a ruckus these days. The Dallas Business Journal has been covering the noisy fight between Park Towers resident Deborah Sanford, who “has called police to complain about the Ice House 20 to 30 times over the past two years,” and the popular Uptown bar.
When city council members Angela Hunt and Sandy Greyson vowed to fix the decibel issue at a recent council meeting, Katy Trail Ice House responded by saying it was ‘under attack’ on Tuesday.
The Austin-style beer garden has always been rather – hm, how should I say this – vocal, so it’s not surprising for rowdy things to happen over there. But when the city measured the noise level, apparently it was still within city code. Park Tower residents, deciding to do things on their own, brought in a Miami noise consultant, who said there was a “continuous noise threshold for sleep disturbance.”
I’m going to assume that the noise at Katy Trail Ice House changes every day, so it makes sense for the city and the consultant to get two different readings. (Unless they were standing in the exact same location on the exact same day.) Anyway, both parties are up in arms over this issue, and Katy Trail Ice House is turning to social media to get the job done. It’s quite a brawl.
Keller Resident, MiMi Johnson, to Compete on Bobby Flay’s Dinner Battle on Food Network
Another day, another new food show, another Dallas-area resident on TV. I don’t watch enough food shows to know but it seems like the producers pick plenty of contestants from North Texas.
This morning comes word: Keller resident, MiMi Johnson, is competing on Bobby Flay’s new show, Dinner Battle on the Food Network. The show features three teams of home cooks battling to throw dinner parties. Wednesday’s show was shot in Dallas. The premise? “Three teams of the best home cooks in Dallas to throw a Wild West themed dinner party.” That’s an innovative theme.
2 Comments »Keller Resident, MiMi Johnson, to Compete on Bobby Flay’s Dinner Battle on Food Network
Another day, another new food show, another Dallas-area resident on TV. I don’t watch enough food shows to know but it seems like the producers pick plenty of contestants from North Texas.
This morning comes word: Keller resident, MiMi Johnson, is competing on Bobby Flay’s new show, Dinner Battle on the Food Network. The show features three teams of home cooks battling to throw dinner parties. Wednesday’s show was shot in Dallas. The premise? “Three teams of the best home cooks in Dallas to throw a Wild West themed dinner party.” That’s an innovative theme.
2 Comments »Cane Rosso to Open in East Dallas. Begs the Question: Is East Dallas More Hip Than Oak Cliff
Jack and Jay went up the hill from businessmen to chefs. (Photo from JJ’s Facebook page without permission.)
If I ever want to get a good sleep I have to turn my computer off. If I don’t, I run the risk of passing it in the middle of the night and noticing the little green light next to Teresa “Gubbshoe” Gubbins’ name on gTalk. For while I am making a middle-of-the-night bathroom run, Gubbshoe is scouring Facebook, Craig’s List, Angie’s List, and this list, and beating stories out if the internet bushes. I swear she is a vampire.
This morning she shines a beacon on the big news in East Dallas: Jay “The J” Jerrier is opening a second location of Cane Rosso at 7328 Gaston Ave. at Grand Avenue, near White Rock Lake. (I know something about Jay that she doesn’t but I’m not telling!)
Anywhoo, it begs the question: Does North Oak Cliff have a hipper food scene than East Dallas? Or vice versa?
Do you like the Goodfriend-Mecca-Matt’s-Barbec’s sensibility of East Dallas or the Oddfellows-Bolsa-Boulevardier-Smoke-Hattie’s vibe of Bishop Arts District and North Oak Cliff? And WTF, Marc Cassel? Will you ever open?
14 Comments »Pitmasters Announced for Second Annual Texas Oklahoma Red River Barbecue Shootout
Last year, Dallas Restaurant Group (Dallas Chop House, Wild Salsa, Dallas Fish Market) and Downtown Dallas Inc. teamed up to create the Texas Oklahoma Red River Barbecue Shootout. Basically it’s a barbecue competition between four pitmasters from Oklahoma and four from Texas. This year, the second event will take place downtown at Main Street Garden on during Texas/OU weekend (October 11 &12).
The pitmasters competing for the 2012 Champion title and a $1000 prize in the two-round contest are:
TEXAS
Cliff Payne (2011 Event Champion) Cousin’s, Fort Worth,TX
Lance Kirkpatrick, Stiles Switch BBQ & Brew, Austin,TX
Kelly Duncan, Big Daddy’s – Lavon, TX
Rev. Jeremiah McKenzie, Baby J’s BBQ & Fish, Palestine, TX
OKLAHOMA
Robby Corcoran, Burn Co. BBQ, Tulsa,OK
Terel McNac, Steve’s Ribs, Edmond, OK
Russ Garrett, Coach’s, Oklahoma City, OK
Bill Ritter, Mud Creek BBQ, Ringling, OK
DRG Concepts and Downtown Dallas Inc. are bringing in live music from Texas and Oklahoma and the bands will perform all evening on October 12, starting at 5:30 p.m. The concerts are free and open to the public. Everyone is invited to bring their lawn chairs and blankets to enjoy the music on the lawn at Main Street Garden. In addition to the barbecue on the Red River Shootout People’s Choice Rib Plate, attendees will be able to purchase beer, wine and margaritas at the October 12 event. Who wins? Downtown Dallas!
More info below.
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1 Comment »Deep Fried Jambalaya Wins “Best Taste” in 2012 Big Tex Choice Awards Competition
Deep fried jambalaya (photos by Carol Shih)
This morning at 9 a.m., the eight finalists in the 2012 Big Tex Choice Awards gathered at The Dock Restaurant in Fair Park for a little fried food showdown. Within an hour of tasting all the entries, the three judges (Rep. Eric Johnson, Andrea Rega, and Donovan Lewis) announced at the Eighth Annual Big Tex Choice Awards that Abel Gonzales, creator of the deep fried jambalaya, was taking home the trophy for “Best Taste.” Butch Benavides also won “Most Creative” for his sweet bacon cinnamon roll dipped in pancake batter and topped with fried bacon crumbles.
Gonzales, whose win today is his fifth at the Big Tex Choice Awards, says winning this year still “means a lot.”
“A friend of mine gave me the idea. His name is Matthew and he was just determined that I should bring this out here,” says Gonzales, who came up with a deep fried pineapple upside down cake last year. “I’m very excited to make my first real food and not a dessert.”
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5 Comments »Nasty Feud Subsides: Matt’s Rancho Martinez in Lakewood Schedules Opening. Again
I just checked in with Brian Marsters, the Director of Operations of Matt’s Rancho Martinez. Marsters didn’t go into too many details but said the long-awaited opening of the restaurant in Lakewood is now scheduled for “September 11thish.” Matt’s has certainly had a wretched six months filled with delays from permits, parking, neighborhood associations, and landlords.
The recent delay was caused by the back up of fire inspections due to the upcoming holiday weekend. They still have to pour part of the sidewalk and the patio wall but are eagerly waiting to get chiles rellenos to the tables on September 11thish. I love that.
Nasty Feud in Lakewood: Area Homeowners and Landlord are Holding Matt’s Rancho Martinez Hostage
Brian Marsters, Director of Operations for Matt’s Rancho Martinez, has saved 5,000 emails from customers asking when the new Lakewood location of this popular Tex-Mex restaurant will open. “I would like those 5,000 supporter to contact (Dallas City Councilmember) Angela Hunt and ask her the same question.” Marsters and co-owner Estella Martinez are befuddled by their situation. “We can’t open because we are caught in the crossfire of a feud between our landlord (Stonelake Investments), several area homeowners associations, and the City of Dallas.”
The saga started when Matt’s lease expired in February and the landlord chose to replace Matt’s with a Mi Cocina, which is already up and running. Matt’s relocated to the building vacated by Consignment Solutions at 1904 Skillman Ave. The opening has been delayed by a series of the usual suspects such as myriad permits, grease traps, and parking, but last Wednesday the plan for the restaurant and Stonelake Investments development projects clashed when Stonelake applied for a permit to close off a block of La Vista between Skillman and Live Oak and created a pedestrian mall.
Stay with me, now.
38 Comments »Food Truck Fight: Five Reasons Why We Will Not Be Returning To The Midtown Foodtruck Fest Anytime Soon
Last weekend the first Midtown Food Truck Fest took place at the mall formerly known as Valley View. It was (and is planned to be) a monthly Friday, Saturday, and Sunday event with over two dozen food trucks including a few driving in from out of town. To attract customers to eat street food in the the heat, the food trucks were to park in the cavernous parking garage. Several months earlier, the TX Food Truck Fest at Valley View was a huge success for customers and for the food trucks. However, according to customers and truck operators, the Midtown Food Truck Fest, organized by a different group, was an unmitigated disaster.
Typically event organizers put these large events together to promote a business or a charitable cause. They provide some seating, trash cans, traffic control, government paperwork, parking, and advertising. They charge the food trucks an entry fee and a percentage of revenue. Depending on the event’s cause, the food truck owners might marginally raise their prices to offset the organizer’s percentage take. The entry fee can range from nothing to several hundreds of dollars, and the revenue percentage split can range up to the 20% range.
I didn’t go to this particular event. I saw little reason to go to a vacant mall parking lot in 108 degree temperature to try food trucks that can easily be found. However one from the customer, indie food truck blogger, Food Truck Terry provides this customer perspective. I’ve copied and pasted a complaint from a food trucks owner who participated. They prefer to remain anonymous but below they’ve listed five reasons why they will never participate again.
9 Comments »Green Grocer to Open on Greenville Avenue in September 2012
The Green Grocer in Chicago
East Dallas is going to get pretty crowded with grocery shoppers now that Green Grocer has announced its partnership with Artizone.com, an online shopping community that features a wide selection of local artisanal shops and food businesses. Cassie Green and Gary Stephens founded the first Green Grocer in the West Town neighborhood of Chicago (2008), and now they’re opening a second location in Dallas by September 2012 on 3614 Greenville Ave. with 4,000 square feet of retail space. Green Grocer will be a “one stop shop to pick up every day grocery items, lunch to go, ingredients for a fresh and delicious dinner or a gift basket for a friend” and will feature “organically grown, locally produced food and specialty items.”
But Sunflower Market (soon to be Sprouts now that the two chains have emerged) already dominates the corner of Lewis and North Henderson, while Trader Joe’s is set to open on 2001 Greenville Ave. – just 1.2 miles away from Green Grocer – by the first quarter of 2013. Oh, and remember me telling you how Wal-Mart is opening its own Neighborhood Market store in the old Whole Foods space on 2218 Greenville? That’s happening this September as well. By next year, at the very latest, one-two-three-FOUR grocery stores will be fighting the good grocery fight within a two-mile radius.
What’s that idiom again? Two is company, three’s a crowd… so what’s four? Four might be produce-shopping overkill. With the advent of Green Grocer, at least this means that those of you who’ve been pining for a neighborhood market that supports small, local vendors as opposed to large retail chains are finally getting exactly what you want, even if we’ll all be playing bumper cars with our grocery carts along Greenville and Henderson. Hip hip hooray!
6 Comments »Let’s Discuss: Do You Mind Paying Extra for Take-Out Containers?
This picture is not representative of Velvet Taco. Stock photo of take-out containers.
Listen up all of you people who don’t mind recycling or rescuing, we’ve got a situation we need to discuss. A SideDish reader brings up the “green tax” charged for take-out containers at Velvet Taco.
I had lunch at Velvet Taco for the first time today. When we ordered, we noticed on the menu that there was listed a “10% Green Tax” on takeout orders. I snickered at the brazen attempt to make additional money off of imaginary concern for the environment, never having seen such a fee before. (Perhaps it’s common and I’ve just never seen it at another establishment?) But thinking about it today and beyond the mere ridiculousness of a fast-casual dining spot charging more for those taking their food elsewhere, I can’t help but wonder if Velvet Tacos is violating any law. I haven’t researched the issue, but I wouldn’t be surprised at all if it were illegal for a business to call a “tax” (implying mandated by the government) any privately-imposed and discretionary fee. It certainly seems to rise to some level of deceptive trade practice to call this sort of greedy and unnecessary fee a “tax,” as it seems like a term which could very easily confuse even intelligent diners about who was mandating the charge.
Before I hand this issue over to John Franke of Velvet Taco, let me put in my Nichols’ worth. I don’t find the practice of charging for container ridiculous. Especially when said containers are made from more expensive ‘green and compostable wares that, according to one industry person I asked, can cost up to $3.00 an order. (Another in the fast food expert said: “to-go containers are direct expense of about 4% of [our] sales (in a $400 million company, that’s an eye-opening $16 million non-recovered expense) that was spent directly on to go supplies.”
On the other side, people who take food away from a restaurant don’t require the labor of a server or busser or any of the other costs a place incurs when a customer dines in (big flush, little flush!). Also, the charge at Velvet Taco is not a state-sanctioned “tax,” it’s a term they chose to use in place of “upcharge” and the 10% is based on the pre-sales tax amount.
Below, John Franke, the head of operations at Velvet Taco replies to the reader’s question.
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37 Comments »Dallas Police on the Scene, Again, at The Chesterfield
Lucky and police officer at 3:30PM . (Photo by Carol Shih)
Last Thursday, Ed Bailey, majority owner of The Chesterfield, called the police and attempted to have one of his minority owners, Eddie “Lucky” Campbell, removed from the premises. The operation failed.
According to Campbell, Gary Van Gundy, president of Edward C. Bailey Enterprises, showed up with an attorney a little before 3PM today and the police were asked to have Campbell removed. “Yes, they’re here right now,” said Campbell from his cell phone. “They are trying to have me removed from the property.” Campbell showed the officers the lease which is in Campbell’s name. “They tried to say I was trespassing,” Campbell said. “But I’m not.”
Bailey and Campbell are locked in a bitter battle over how to operate the Chesterfield. Both teams are lawyered up and won’t get into specifics. Bailey owns 51% of the business but his name is not on the lease agreement. “Look, I’m here right now and I’m starting a huge all-night happy hour starting at 5:30 today. I am reinstating the staff that Bailey fired and those who walked out in disgust,” Campbell said. “These people have kids and need to work. Our disagreement is a private matter about business and I want to get it resolved.”
I asked him how he planned to run a business with an unhappy partner. “It’s difficult,” Campbell said. “I’m not a lawyer. Ed and I disagree on how to run this business. As far as I’m concerned, I’m still operating The Chesterfield.”
19 Comments »Burger Wars: Jack Perkins v Dace Street
Yelp! I hate somebody. Yelp! Almost everybody. Yelp! Won’t you please hate me!
—all due respect to John, Paul, George, and Ringo
Why I don’t like Yelp: Reasons number 2,343 and 2,344.
Yelpers walk into restaurants and introduce themselves as Yelpers, demand special attention, and become customers from hell. If they don’t get it, they murder the restaurant online. Usually you can flush out the grandiose writers by their pompous style. I’d hate to be a restaurateur and deal with these types.
Restaurateurs rating competitors on Yelp. Yesterday Maple and Motor’s Jack Perkins “exposed” Dace Street, the son of Gene Street who has been around the business (Snookies) for a few decades. On M&M’s Facebook page Perkins writes: “Check out what Dace Street is willing to do” and links to Street’s Yelp profile page. Street is out in the open: he boldly posts his picture on the page which also contains ten reviews. He gives 5 Stars to the Street-family-owned Liberty Burger and one to Maple and Motor.
It’s all bollocks. This is all starting to make Harvey Gough look like a softie. Hi Harvey, I’ll take a number 2 and melt the cheese!
UPDATE: I just received this note from Dace Street: “Some one is screwing with me. I took down the yelp profile that was associated with me. Good grief! I never took any pot-shots at M&M or anyone else.”
Pink Slime, I’m Going to Miss You
Looks like frozen yogurt! How can it be all bad. (photo courtesy of Elevation Burger.)
Poor Pink Slime. The frappéed beef scraps and connective tissues doused in ammonia used in food production has been called to the front of the class for being gross in a room full of politically correct food experts. What took you people so long to get all worked up about Pink Slime? Did you miss The Omnivore’s Dilemna? Fast Food Nation? Upton Sinclair’s The Jungle?
What’s next? Nasty Nitrates? According to the Food Chemical Codex, sodium nitrite, used to cure meat and prolong the shelf life of food, contains residual heavy metals, arsenic, and lead. Will you think about that the next time you bite into a Yu Dog at the Ballpark?
What is my point? I think Pink Slime got a raw deal. Anyone who pays attention to what they eat already knows about this crap. But somebody came up with a catchy name to grab the headlines and—BOOM—Pink Slime is public enemy number one.
My inbox is full of messages from burger joints now touting they are “Pink-Slime-free.” (Good news for marketing folks.) Locally, Elevation Burger has declared its 28 restaurants as “Pink Slime Free Zones.” Goody for them. They were smart enough to start by serving 100% USDA-certified organic and 100% grass-fed beef. Just be prepared to put your money where the pink slime was. (Check out City of Ate’s breakdown on the economics of a slime-free market.)
Carry on do-gooders. There are important battles to fight for healthy food. Just don’t get all high and mighty. Some of us still like to enjoy food in foreign countries that are lucky to have beef scraps to cook.
Public Hearing Notice: The Future of the Dallas Farmers Market Will Be Discussed This Thursday
The efforts to privatize the Dallas Farmers Market have been futile and the city of Dallas’ efforts to energize the DFM have been quagmired in chaos. I’d love to see someone swoop in and make the DFM a destination for residents, framers, and visitors. However, the emergence of Phil Romano’s Trinity Groves project in West Dallas could be the final nail in the coffin of the Dallas Farmers Market if they don’t get their shiitakes together. Romano’s grand plan calls for vendors of all shapes and sizes and he and his partners have the backing to get it done.
Meanwhile, the debate on privatization of the Market and surrounding the Market with permanent housing continues. If you would like to show your support the Dallas Farmers Market, you can join the Dallas Farmers Market Friends. They also have a petition you can sign to try to influence city officials to consider other options for the housing solution. Their goal:
…is to present both sides of the story (via links on the DFMF.org website) so people can get a feel for everything going on. In the end, they’d love to have people speak out, sign the petition and hopefully convince city officials to alter their decision about the supportive housing. They’ve added links to the petition itself to the DFMFriends.org site, and have the links to both sides of the story there, as well.
There is a public hearing this Thursday. Do your homework here, decide which side you’re on, and show up at the J. Erik Jonsson Central Library (1515 Young Street) on Thursday, April 5 at 6 PM.
11 Comments »Occupy Nana: A Peaceful, Tell-Your-Nana-Love-Stories Protest to Keep it Alive
My plea: I can’t write it, sing it, dance it, or say any better than Neil Sedaka. You can help save Nana by writing your stories about your experiences at Nana. Put on your go-go boots and come-a come-a, down dooby do down, down to the comments.
Attention Dallas Restaurant Industry: Judges Needed for GDRA Competition
On Tuesday, February 7, 2012, the Greater Dallas Restaurant Association will be hosting its annual TX ProStart Regional Competition for over 25 high school teams from our area that utilize our ProStart curriculum. What is ProStart? I’m glad you asked. ProStart is a two-year program that provides training and certification in both culinary and management. Over 30 teams of high school students will compete in culinary and management battles. The top 3 winners will go on to State competition, and the State winner will go to the Nationals in Baltimore. The National winner will get a free roundtrip to Saturn. (Just wanted to see if you were still with me.)
The GDRA needs judges! So, if you are a chef, a sous chef, a kitchen worker, a recipe developer, a kitchen manager, or an expert in your restaurant, contact Contact Tracey Evers, tevers@gdra.org or our assistant director Candice Sullinger , csullinger@gdra.org.
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Top Chef: Texas, Episode 6 Recap
D Magazine’s Loren Means loves to watch Top Chef: Texas. Therefore, she volunteered to watch all of the episodes this season and write a recap. She’s reviewed episode one, two, three, four, and five. Today she reports on episode six which takes place in Dallas. Go, Loren.
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