D

Roaster’s New York Deli in Dallas is Closed

According to Robert Wilonsky, Roaster’s Deli at Preston and LBJ closed two weeks ago. His post on Unfair Park asks the question we have tried to answer here: “Why can’t Dallas do a proper Hebrew deli?” (See “Three Jews, Zinsky’s Deli in Dallas, Six Opinions.”)

When Evan “Hebrew American League” Grant was on staff here at D, he wrote about Roaster’s and the dearth of delis in Dallas. In particular, bagels. Grant said:

“First a disclaimer, finding good bagels in Dallas has been as difficult as finding a date ( and for me, that’s nigh impossible). Einstein’s? Feh. They should be called “bagel rolls.” Whole Foods? Again with the rolls, only heavier than Einstein’s. Central Market? Getting closer. The bagel I had [at Roaster’s] Sunday was a work of art.”

Last April, I ate a pastrami sandwich at Roaster’s. I thought it was great.  A week ago, I went to Zinsky’s. I didn’t think the pastrami was as good as what I was served at Roaster’s but I noticed that the bagels they serve at Zinsky’s have changed. Initially they were made by Empire Bakery. Now, according to a server, they are baked on site. (I hear they buy pre-formed dough and bake them off.) I’ve spotted H&H bagel’s, imports from Manhattan, at Deli News and Beyond the Box. Cindi’s N.Y. Deli seems to be the only one that manages to stay alive and propagate—they now have 5 locations. I think we need to answer this question. I’m calling an expert. Let’s see what she has to say.

Dallas Deli Trivia: According to this, Jack Ruby was toting a brown bag filled with sandwiches from gone-but-ner-to-be-forgotten Phil’s Delicatessen on Oak Lawn (Lucky’s location.)

Dave Faries Leaves the Observer: Is Dallas Dude the New Dave? Do Chicks Make Better Dining Critics?

Pigs and chicks in happier times.

I was just catching up on the Dave-less City of Ate and found this line in Dallas Dude’s latest Toque To Toque report.

My health insurance at the Observer hasn’t kicked in yet. And I ate a lot of burgers.

Am I the only one who is curious about Dave’s departure? He was there on Friday and gone on Monday. Well, if Dallas Dude is the next Dave, then then a couple of male chauvinist pigs (wow that came from the dark recesses of my brain) over at Dallasfood.org will be happy as, well, pigs in slop. Some  bloggers over there—Luniz, I’m looking at you—are hoping  a male fills the Observer job. Luniz hopes “they don’t replace him with a chick.” Perhaps you men should subscribe to the Star-Telegram. Your boy is back doing reviews. Cue the Boss.

I Scuba For Scallops: The Movie

Andrew Chalk attended yesterday’s sea scallop tasting at Chamberlain’s Fish Market & Grill. He files this video report.

Freebirds Announces Super Monster Burrito Eating Contest

Photo courtesy of travelchannel.com

Calling all Man vs. Food wannabees: Freeb!rds has a challenge for you. Not just any old challenge, but a “Super Monster Burrito Eating Contest” challenge. This gives me a stomach ache just to type. But here you go:

Come one come all to a truly gluttonous affair at FREEB!RDS where patrons will hone in their inner monster, peel back the foil and try to eat their Super Monster Burrito with in the quickest time! The Dallas winner will get their picture posted in their home store, a FANATIC card preloaded with a free burrito, a FREEB!RD tee and a chance to compete in the “Big Kahuna” championship the following Saturday. If crowned, the “Big Kahuna” winner will win a FANATIC card preloaded with 100 points, a plaque with their picture on it hung in their home store and of course the honor of reigning Super Monster Burrito Eater supreme.

You are probably wondering, what the heck is in this thing? Well, all the usual suspects: rice, mixed cheese, beans, chicken or steak, mixed veggies, queso, pico, salsa, red onion, corn, guacamole, sour cream, cilantro and lettuce. Gulp. The contest will take place at three locations (5500 Greenville Ave, 5000 Beltline, and 238 W. Campbell Road) on February 20 at noon. The entry fee is $12.

“I Scuba for Scallops” Tasting Panel Picked and Ready to Rumble

The “I Scuba for Scallops” tasting will take place tomorrow around 1:00 p.m. at Chamberlain’s Fish Market in Addison. At that time, the five talented Dishersw who came up with the correct answer to my riddle, will participate in a blind tasting of scallops. On one plate will be really expensive, hand-harvested diver sea scallops. On the other will be dry-packaged U-10 scallops, the ones  generally served in high-end restaurants as “diver” scallops. Should be an interesting challenge. (In case you care, the answer to the riddle was the line “the doctor says I need rest” from Humble Pie’s song “I Don’t Need No Doctor ” on the Performance Rockin’ the Fillmore album.)

Kinky Friedman to Run for Texas Agriculture Commissioner

Kinky Friedman will not leave one asparagus stalk behind.

Hey, Kinky. I just read that you are running for ag commissioner. You have my vote. Thanks for tagging Jim “Friend of the Farmer” Hightower as your adviser. The two of you will shine a light on small producers and farmers all across the great state of Texas. Please don’t listen to those uptight bureaucrats who call you nasty names and think you aren’t qualified. Jim Hightower? Do you think a candidate should have special skills?

“You have to have a pulse and a few brain cells,” Hightower said. “He’ll make the point that the agriculture commissioner doesn’t farm. The agriculture commissioner is supposed to work on polices [sic] that help farmers and build coalitions.”

Kinky, what sayeth?

“I might not know how to grow organic asparagus, but I can find the people who do,” he said. “It takes a bully pulpit, but you need to ride straight and tell the truth.”

The DMN has a longer version of the story. Kinky, this bully pulpit is open to you at all times.

“I Scuba for Scallops” Blind Tasting: Chamberlain’s Fish Market on February 2

Pick me!

I am really sick today and I am not thinking clearly. However, I have started this contest and I’m going to finish it. Tuesday, FIVE lucky Dishers will get a chance to make Dallas seafood history by participating in our “I Scuba for Scallops” contest. Contestants will use their palates to see if they can taste the difference between an expensive hand-harvested scallop and a dry-packaged U-10. I’ve just returned from the doctor and the doctor said I need rest so I’m going to lie down for a couple of hours.

While I snooze, you have to find some lyrics to one of my favorite songs. I buried them in this post. The first five of you to reveal the band and the song will be invited to the tasting. If you are going to play, PLEASE make sure your schedule is clear from 1-3:00 p.m. on Tuesday. Go now. It’s Friday and Google is standing by.
Winners announced at 5:00 p.m.

UPDATE: Time and date of this tasting  may change. Developing.

SideDish Tasters Event: Diver Sea Scallops vs U-10 Scallops

This could be YOU!

Sorry for the last minute notice but I’ve decided to organize an impromptu  SideDish Tasters Event. Some of you participated in the SDTE we held last summer for Zinsky’s. Others contributed to the Jammin’ With Wild Salmon (and wild commenters) at TJs Market in Preston Forest . I’m going to gather some hand-harvested diver scallops and some U-10s and see if YOU can taste the difference. ONLY FIVE OF YOU.  Chef Richard Chamberlain of Chamberlain’s Fish Market has agreed to do the ordering and provide the space. We are trying to work out the details but this much I know: The event will take place at 1:00 p.m. on Tuesday, February 2 at Chamberlain’s Fish Market in Addison.

Stay tuned. Contest rules will be announced soon.

Cha-cha-cha-Changes: Dish Restaurant in Dallas

Some dish on Dish.

I’ve heard from several frequent and upset Dish Restaurant Nightclub and Lounge (and Beyond) customers this morning. Seems they are not happy about some recent changes in the management team of the Dish, the creation of “Dallas restaurateur and nightclub guru” Tim “obar, LIFT, Dragonfly” McEneny and partner Doug “Beyond the Box” Brown. Here is one concern/question.

Could you find out why Tim at Dish fired both of his Gay Managers –the gayborhood is planning a revolt.

Yow. Zah. A quick e-mail to an insider reveals that McEneny recently sold LIFT and replaced the two Dish  management types and with former Fuse and LIFT peeps. Oh, and I buried my lead: Executive chef, Brian Sommers, was fired yesterday. I know nothing about the gay issue in this scenario but I doubt sexual orientation was a factor since Dish is located on Cedar Springs and in the heart of Gaytown Dallas. I’m just stating the facts according to an inside source. (Or, for those of you in the Buddhahood, it could just be another case of warm impermanence.)

The BBQ Challenge

Daniel Vaughn takes no prisoners.

I’ve spent the better part of today with Daniel “The BBQ Snob” Vaughn. We are producing a video with Daniel looking over Kevin Marple’s photographs that didn’t get printed in the magazine and talking about barbecue. Of course we at some too. Anywhoo, as you can imagine, Mr. BBQ Snob is getting a pretty big head on his shoulders now that he is the local expert on the subject. He asked me to relay this challenge to you. Here goes:

The BBQ Challenge

E-V-E-R-Y barbeque joint in DFW. That is my claim, with a few caveats. The baked ribs at Texas Roadhouse do not count, nor do multiple locations of chain barbecue, but if they can legitimately be called a BBQ joint, and they’re located in DFW, then I have paid them a visit. If anyone out there can come up with a legitimate joint that I have missed, I will join you for dinner there, and I’ll pay. To help weed out repeats, my blog and my map are at your disposal. Now bring it on.

Cheeky isn’t he?

Who Has the Best Barbecue in Dallas? You Will Know on Thursday

The February issue of D Magazine is scheduled to hit newsstands on Monday, January 18 Thursday, January 21 (thanks, Tim). The cover story, The Best Barbecue in Dallas, will reveal the top 16 ‘cue joints around town. The top picks were determined by Daniel Vaughn, the self-described “BBQ Snob,” who details his obsession with barbecue on his blog Full Custom Gospel BBQ. The accompanying photographs, shot by our go-to food photographer Kevin Hunter Marple, are gorgeous. I’ll post a link to the story as soon as it’s available online and I look forward to some spirited discussions on barbecue over the next few weeks. I’ve got a gift certificate to The Grape for anyone who can guess Vaughn’s top pick.

UPDATE:  Hint: I should have said in and around Dallas.

Fat Foodie Fight: Teresa Gubbins Takes on Leslie Brenner’s Battle of the Bulge

This is not Leslie Brenner on a diet.

DMN dining critic Leslie Brenner is on a diet. On January 4, she announced that she is determined to lose 20 pounds on her Restaurant Critic’s Diet.  (I’m sure the Oprah’s peeps have already called.) So far, Brenner has dropped 9 pounds in 7 weeks. Today in an f-laden post (Foodies Fit Forever!) she reports that, on deadline, she managed to burn 401 calories at the gym.

Teresa Gubbins, always on deadline at Pegasus News, decided to take a shot at La Brenner’s efforts. In a tidy little essay, “Shedding #s, The Restaurant Critics Diet,” La Gubbins, the emaciated veteran dining reporter, takes a look at the dietary hazards of being a restaurant critic. Gouda stuff.

Dave Faries Picks the Best Restaurateurs in Dallas

Best Restaurateurs. Oh no, now I’ve got to make one too. (Bob Sambol? I like Bob but he owns one restaurant.)

UPDATE: Okay, I’ve thought about the above list a little bit more and I really have to question Dave Faries’ pick of Bob Sambol as a restaurateur of the decade. What about entrepreneurial spirits such as Jeff Sinelli, Mike Hogue, Kent Rathbun, Shannon Wynne? Bob Sambol lost his butt in Denver, sold his brand to Omni, and only owns part of his original restaurant. What’s in the eggnog over at the Observer, Dave?

New Cooking Show Master Chef With Gordon RamsayWill Hold Casting Call in Dallas

Hell is for children. And contestants on any Gordon Ramsay show.

What is a national reality TV show without a Dallas contestant? That is meant to be a rhetorical question, but if you can name one, feel free to comment below. Anywhoo, the casting director for Fox’s Master Chef With Gordon Ramsay just “told” me the show, a “Foodie American Idol,” was coming to Dallas to look for potential contestants. (Here is how the Hollywood Reporter describes the upcoming show. They are looking for “people who are passionate about cooking without having professional experience.” (Boy, I could go a lot of places with that line, but I won’t.) Maybe Mr. Ramsay will listen to my pitch for a food show—Food Bitches—a show that follows female food writers.

UPDATE: They will be here “either January 9 and/or 10th.”

UPDATE: From one of the casting director: “Hi everyone! I am one of the casting directors for the show. Master Chef is a different kind of show than Gordon’s other projects. It is an inspirational show that celebrates passionate people who have a love for cooking! We have been told there is no shouting on this one….more encouragement. Master Chef has been a widely popular show in UK and Australia for years. Please call me if you have any questions we would love to have many come audition. 424-236-7500 Ext 7603. We will have more info shortly regarding when and where we will be. Hope to see you all!”

Trouble at Taco Mundo in Preston Royal: Caroline Galvan-Rodriguez Sues Landlord Over Lockout

On June 19, I wrote : “Somebody tell Caroline Galvan-Rodriguez that we are in a down economy—she is opening four new restaurants before August 4th…in late July, the former wife of MCrowd founder Mico Rodiguez, will open her first location of Taco Mundo at Preston Royal and a second location on August 4th.”

Well, it is November 23 and Ms. Rodriguez is now involved in a messy lawsuit with her Preston Royal landlord, Southeast Preston/Royal, LTD, Trademark Preston Oaks, Inc. The legal action was filed by Ms. Rodriguez on November 2. According to the paperwork, she has been locked out of the Preston Royal location since October 20. She claims to have already invested $500,000 in the space which was originally scheduled to open in July.  The battle is over when the lease became effective and at what point the landlord had the right to lock her out for failure to open. (The whole document is here.)

Is this a preemptive strike against a landlord who did not see the an opening on August 4,  September 4,  October 4, or November 4?  (According to Robert Willonsky over at Unfair Park, Rodriguez applied for a liquor license on November 26, 2008.) I’ve left a message at Trademark Preston Oaks, Inc. Stay tuned. Developing.

Il Frateli v City of Coppell

From the copy and paste press release department:

Huge Fine for Holding a Sign? Coppell Official’s Harassment Causes Layoffs.

i Fratelli Pizza feels “chilling effect” through unprovoked vendetta

COPPELL, TX   Did a Coppell City official lean on a code enforcement officer to fine the manager of a locally owned i Fratelli Pizza $2,000.00 because there was a lone employee holding a sign in front of the store? (more…)

Jack’s Porch Restaurant Opens in Southlake With a Lawsuit

A couple of months ago, a Disher in Colleyville asked me if I knew where Jack’s Porch was opening in her area. I did what most reputable reporters do, I Googled. I did find job listings for a Jack’s Porch but no address. Then I forgot about it. This morning a Disher with a head for the law and a bod for Law & Order sends word that Jack of Jack’s Porch is Jack Layman, the former manager of Rockfish in Southlake, and he has been slapped with a lawsuit for violating his employment contract. Layman quit his job at Rockfish and opened Jack’s Porch across the street with a Rockfish-rip-off menu. Rockfish is claiming Layman has violated his employment contract which prohibits him from working at another restaurant within 10 miles.

New Federal Trade Commission Guidelines and Food Writers

The Federal Trade Commission recently updated its “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.” If you are a blogger, freelance writer, advertising copy writer, or professional writer you need to read the document, especially if you accept complimentary products such as food, wine, or free dinners. The revised rules require you to disclose how you received the products you review or endorse. Scott, over at Dallasfood.org has a brilliant analysis of the document.

Let me give you an example what happens here at D headquarters on a regular basis. Let’s say a box of cupcakes, a package of chocolate, or bag of food samples arrives with a note from the store owner or publicist. Everyone in the office goes bonkers and whatever is delivered disappears in about 2 seconds. If we don’t post anything on SideDish, I generally receive a “follow-up” note like this:

Hi Nancy, I just wanted to follow up on the “Insert Name” “Insert Item” that we sent last week from “Insert Company” and get your thoughts/feedback on the new flavors. We think it would make an interesting post on SideDish or an article for your magazine. We’d love to hear what you thought of them and see if they might be a fit for an upcoming story or mention. “Insert Company” will be expanding and owner “Insert Name” is hoping to open more locations soon.  We appreciate any comments you have!

If someone on the SideDish staff decides to write about the product, they now have to mention the fact that the food was not paid for by D Magazine. If we don’t, we violate the Federal Trade Commission Act and could receive a fine.

At the risk of calling in the food police, I will say that we have always run a tight ship around here. We’ve always paid for food we review and I do not attend media dinners or accept complimentary dinners. We have sent a copy of the FTC guidelines to our attorney to make sure we comply with all of the rules.

But here is one rub—I’ve already heard that some bloggers and indie food writers are finding ways to get around the rules by posting one small disclaimer somewhere on their webpage and not in the copy of the item. So readers beware. Ask questions. It’s a jungle out there.

Posting Reader Complaints: Good Idea or Bad Idea?

Yesterday I posted a Disher’s complaint about Zorba’s. Several commenters disagreed with the anonymous complainant and the owner, Pavlos Guiatas, posted a rebuttal. I thought, in the end, it was a discussion that provoked interest in Zorba’s.

I hate to say that I’m smart, but I receive a lot of e-mails from people trying to cyber-bash a restaurant. Usually I can tell if the note comes from someone on the inside or a disgruntled employee—they tend to know too much and the note is usually a personal attack and not a general complaint about an experience.

So, I ask you. I view this space as an open forum for discussion. Do I post anonymous complaints? Do I e-mail them back and say “I will post your complaint if you give me your real name?” Or do I hit delete? It’s your space. Define it.

Dining Critics and Anonymity: Does it Really Matter Anymore?

Sometimes you feel like a duck. Sometimes you don’t.

I find it interesting that two high-profile dining critics are changing their tune about the importance of remaining anonymous. Maybe it’s because they are no longer high-profile dining critics. Former New York Times dining critics Ruth Reichl and Frank Bruni have been giving interviews with quotes such as these:

“Dining companions are not good covert operations agents,” Bruni says. It’s one of the many reasons Bruni no longer feels restaurant critics can remain anonymous.

Is Bruni paving the way for his successor Sam Sifton? Before Sifton took over as the Times critic, he was the cultural news editor and deputy dining editor. His head shot was plastered all over the paper and the web. Sifton was forced into wearing disguises before he wrote his first lead review.

I believe anonymity is important—I have a closet full of clothes, glasses, and wigs to prove it. As a magazine editor, I have interviewed a lot of chefs in Dallas. I have even traveled with a few to do feature stories. As a dining critic, I have managed to slip past them in their restaurants and review them. (Hi Avner! Hi Dean!) That said, even when I am recognized (Hi, Kent!), which is not very often, it doesn’t always guarantee the restaurant will provide a perfect dining experience. Just because there is a dining critic in a restaurant doesn’t make the chef a better chef or the menu a better menu. Service might step up a notch, but it has been my experience that servers overcompensate and make more mistakes when they know they are serving a critic.

Most restaurant critics don’t get busted by personal appearance, they are outed by their behavior. Asking too many questions upfront and ordering too much food are dead giveaways to perceptive servers. A critic also has to be careful what they say at the table. You never know who is sitting next to you or what they will say to the manager, chef, or owner.

Servers, what do you think? Chefs? Fire away. Dishers, take your best shot.

(BTW, love this.)

Whistle! Foul on Blog Editor Mike Hiller! Dishers, I Need a Ruling.

Dining critics at work.

Yesterday l linked to a post by chef Brian Luscher on former DMN dining critic Mike Hiller’s website Escapehatchdallas.com. While most of the people who left comments agreed with Luscher, I received several e-mails from “professionals” who were a bit concerned about the line “Taking scalps just because you have a hatchet isn’t the same as writing a fair review.” I wrote to both Hiller and Luscher and asked them to clarify and Hiller responded in the comments section. He writes:

“It seems to me Luscher was directing his comments primarily at those bloggers and casual Web commenters who don’t feel any obligation to present fair, comprehensive reviews.” And on his site he writes“…the scalp/hatchet comment, well, that was added for spice in the final edit and has since been removed.”

Couple of questions. If Luscher was directing his comments primarily at bloggers, why does the opening sentence contain “professional restaurant critics and amateur online reviewers”? Also, Hiller admits to adding what I feel is a pretty provocative line (scalp/hatchet) to post with Luscher’s byline. Methinks he put the restaurant owner in a hot seat.  And putting words he didn’t say in his mouth. Foul or fair? Hit it.

Dallasfood.org Plays a Guessing Game: Loft 610 vs. Abacus

The Great Scott over at Dallasfood.org, the vortex of local food knowledge, has posted a fun guessing game.  He has printed a menu and asked readers to pick which items are on Tre Wilcox’s new menu at Loft 610 and which items are on the menu at Abacus. (For new players, Tre was once the execuchef at Abacus.) Go and play. It’s perfect for a rainy day.

Former Dallas Restaurant Critics: Mary Brown Malouf

Mary Brown Malouf at my high school graduation.

I’ve been at my post here at D Magazine for 13 years. Sometime I wonder how many calories I have eaten; other times I wonder how many of those calories were actually worth ingesting. Restaurant reviewers eat more low-to-medium quality food than spectacular meals.

Anywhoo, in the post below, I mentioned Michael Hiller. He used to be a critic at the DMN. Over the years, I’ve seen lots of “critics” come and go. Anyone remember Betty Cook? Suzanne Hough (R.I.P)? Dave Faries? (Oh, he’s still here.) Or Mary Brown Malouf?

Mary was a real biyatch when she wrote dining reviews for the Dallas Observer. When she came to work at D in the late 90s, we became good friends. But Mary ditched D and Dallas and she’s now the Food and Travel editor at Salt Lake City Magazine. I just looked on their site and found a classic Mary Brown Malouf rant.  Gosh, I’m all nostalgic. Call me, Bill.

How about you? Who do you miss? Who do you love? Who do you hate?

Is the City of Dallas Health Department Shutting Down Local Farmers Markets?

I’ve been hearing rumors for weeks that city officials were making the rounds and visiting the small farmers markets that have cropped up in spots such as Celebration, Bolsa, and North Haven Gardens. Now comes official word from Ed Lowe of Celebration. They have shut him down and he’s going to the Dallas City Council.

The City of Dallas Health Department has decided that the Celebration Farmers Market is in violation of certain codes. Celebration was told on 2 previous occasions that we could operate a Farmers Market in our parking lot under our existing permits. We strongly believe that all food handling practices and food products at the Farmers Market were perfectly safe. We have complied strictly with all Health Department codes for 38 years and take our responsibility to public health VERY SERIOUSLY.

We appreciate the warm welcome and support that you’ve provided our Saturday Farmers Market. We believe that what we along with our wonderful vendors are offering is a safe, fun and convenient setting for you to purchase healthy, delicious, local produce and other products.

We are going to approach the Dallas City Council to explore how the code can be modified to allow the Celebration Farmers Markets and others like us to provide a valuable service to the citizens of Dallas while protecting the public health.

I have contacted Ed and asked him for instructions on how you can sign the petition he plans to take to the Dallas City Council. Stay tuned. (OMG, I can hear Amy Severson already.)

Dallas Observer 2009 Best of Dallas® Food List: What do You Think?

Please don’t sue me for using your cover art.

I’m stuck at home in my little glass house. I see a few pebbles on the floor and I think I will toss them.

I just scanned through the Dallas Observer’s 2009 Best of Dallas® Food list. It reminds me of that Who song. What is it, Kirk? Something about the new boss and the old boss? YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH! Bomp, bomp, bomp. YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!

Dave Fairies, I have a quick question: Does the Observer repeat “Bests” if, when the next year rolls around, no one else  fills the category as “Better®?” (That’s mine, dude.)  This is a serious question and I ask it because I have to deal with the beast of ‘Bests” and understand the difficulty at uncovering them. So, Mr. Fairies, do you roll over “Bests” from year to year by moving them into different categories or because they are the “Best” of their original category? Let’s go through the list together and see. Jump with me. It’s not far. (more…)