Getting paid to write anything is almost dead. Unless you consider composing a 140-character pithy news item as writing. I suppose it is: Steve Martin just released a book of his tweets. But he is Steve Martin. The odds of a writer of any kind hitting that kind of jackpot has always been low.

Publications are shrinking. There are fewer jobs in the publishing business, not just food writing. We hear from people everyday looking for work as editors, art designers, and free lancers. Interns taking journalism classes still spend time in our offices, but instead of gathering “clips” from the magazine, they turn in blog posts for college credit. The internet has offered opportunities to anyone who can text, tweet, or post Facebook updates to gather a following and be whatever authority they want to be. The chances of them making a dollar are slim. That progression seems to be the new face of food writing. Is that good or bad? Who has the time to argue? It’s reality. Instead of trying to change it, I attempt to embrace it.

Jump off the cliff with me.

When I started fifteen years ago, the food section of D Magazine was read by 88% of our readers. The statistics are still high, but, as a monthly magazine, we’ve augmented our monthly food coverage with minutely, hence: SideDish and our D Recommends phone app. I joke all the time that I can’t believe I went to college to write about the comings and goings of chefs or the new spring menu at Fearing’s. I miss writing long features about food travel and investigative pieces on food safety. But with fewer pages in a magazine, an editor has to include as many topics as possible.

Many commenters have referred to me as an old geezer who should get the hell out of food writing and let the young ones take over. Believe me, I will in due time. Sometimes after a day of covering the local dining beat I feel like I’ve just spent 8 hours maneuvering class V rapids in a broken down canoe. But I’m not a quitter. I will continue to adapt and change with the industry. Not just because I need the salary and benefits, but because I have 15 years of knowledge in this industry. When I eat the food of a young chef like Matt McCallister, I see him in a different context. I am able to compare his impact on Dallas food with the international recognition that long-time Dallas chef Jean LaFont brought to Dallas in the 70s. I love that. It keeps me interested in writing about culinary personalities and trends. Otherwise, I would be tempted to write another post about National Grilled Cheese Sandwich Day.

Professional food criticism is on life support. Websites like YELP have contributed to the mass murder of true critics. I’ve learned a lot from following some food blogs and I love the idea that an identifiable food community can be just a 140-character tweet away when I need it. Nothing stays the same. As soon as internet businesses learn how to make money with food writing, there will be food writing opportunities. Everybody has to eat and most people care about how much they get for their money when they choose to dine out. I hope you are all smart enough to continue to value and balance professional opinions instead of getting a quick fix from Siri or YELP. I’m hanging in with an open mind until the river runs dry. I don’t think it will.

“Yes, I know a tornado’s headed our way, but I just got a broccoli recipe from Justin Yu at Oxheart in Houston!”

Well, Leslie. Could you whip it up and ship it over to those of us trapped in a parking garage downtown? Pair with appropriate wine, please.

Upon arrival at Miami International Airport, I was stunned to find 92 percent of the people attempting to go through immigration, luggage retrieval, and customs while texting. I felt like I landed in a world of zombies. People ran their wheeled Tumi bags over my feet without noticing. They held up lines because they were distracted. I vowed not to go back to that.

Texting at the dinner table is not a new issue. I have a friend, oh we’ll call him Belevan, who texts in the car, in a movie, and at tables in fine restaurants. His defense is that he has to be available at all times. It’s a horrible emotional tornado that whips up when you text, Facebook, Tweet everything you do. I’m guilty. My job is time sensitive and dependent on instant information, but I am drawing the line now at the dinner table. There is nothing worse than talking to the top of someone’s head while they text in their lap.

It must drive restaurateurs nuts. Service people as well. It’s rude and disrespectful to the people you are eating with and the food you are eating. Anybody have a suggestion for how to stop the madness? Perhaps restaurants should add a phone usage charge to the bill.

My Last Supper at Nana: Grilled duck with beets. Photography by Kevin Marple.

This news breaks my heart. Nana Restaurant at the Hilton Anatole, led by the talented and innovative chef Anthony Bombaci, will close on June 9. The restaurant will undergo reconstructive surgery and emerge as an upscale steak house in late September.

Here are some of the details I’ve beat out the bushes. The new name has not been selected. (We can certainly help with that. Leave your suggestion below.) The interior, designed by a California firm, will be “contemporary with an LA-inspired design.” (The skyline view will remain Dallas’!) The menu will be “all about steaks and one-of-a-kind sides and desserts.” The executive chef of the steakhouse hasn’t been confirmed, but that person will work under Anthony Bombaci who has been promoted. I don’t know his position at this point.

Oh, Nana. You have been such a blessing to this city. We loved you when Doug Brown was the chef and Jason Foss was the pastry chef. We loved you during the fancy days when David McMillan sent entrees out of Versace and Rosenthal china and general manager and wine expert Paul Pinnell roamed the room. We love you for bringing Anthony Bombaci to Dallas. This news makes me appreciate my last meal at Nana even more.

Make a final visit and pay homage to Nana. You have a little over three months to get your Bombaci fix. Make a reservation now: 214-761-7470. And name the new restaurant below!

My initial response is: if you can circle the earth twice, why don’t you just drop off a few million pounds in places where one chicken for a village causes more excitement than the Super Bowl.

My secondary response is actually a question: How many chickens does it take to make 25 billion chicken wings. Hah! You say: do the math dummy; one chicken has only two wings. But your assumption would be wrong. I turned to the Wing-onomics department (true!) at The National Chicken Council for an answer.

You’ll have to jump because you, like chickens, cannot fly.

Wing-onomics

The vast majority of wings, especially those destined for foodservice, are disjointed, with the third joint (the thin part known as the flapper) being exported to Asian countries and the meatier first and second joints being sold domestically.  The wing is usually split into two parts or portions, known as the “drumette” and the mid-section or “flat” and sold to food service or retail outlets.

A chicken has two wings, and chicken companies are not able to produce wings without the rest of the chicken.  Therefore, the supply of wings is limited by the total number of chickens produced.  When the demand for wings is stronger than the demand for other chicken parts, the price of wings will go up. Wing prices always go up in the fourth quarter of the year as restaurants stock up for the Super Bowl and prices usually peak in January during the run-up to the big game.

In the Midwest, for instance which includes Indianapolis, home of Super Bowl XLVI, the price of wings (whole) for the week of January 16-20, 2012 was $1.96/lb wholesale, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Poultry Market News Service.   This represents a 50 percent increase in price from six months ago in July, 2011.

“The good news for consumers,” said NCC’s Roenigk, “is that food service and retail outlets generally plan months in advance for the NFL playoffs and Super Bowl Sunday, meaning that increased wholesale costs for the most part aren’t passed on to consumers’ plates.”

That’s great news. You might find this interesting as well.

According to NPD Group data, not all regions of the country are equal when it comes to eating wings.

This year’s Super Bowl matchup between the New York Giants and New England Patriots should hold wing consumption relatively steady compared to last year’s levels.   That is because New Englanders and Patriots fans are six percent less likely than the national average to order chicken wings at a food service establishment, but fans of the New York Giants and those others in the Mid-Atlantic region are 24 percent more likely.

A New York Giants – Baltimore Ravens match-up would have produced maximum wing consumption out of the four possible Super Bowl match-ups.   Those in the South Atlantic region, including Ravens fans, are 27 percent more likely than the national average to order chicken wings at a food service establishment.

Should the San Francisco 49ers have won in overtime and faced the Patriots, wing consumption would have taken a hit. Those in the in the Pacific region are 34 percent less likely to order wings.

I didn’t have the balls (that’s another story) to ask what would have happened if the Dallas Cowboys had made it to the Super Bowl, but my guess is that sales at Wingstop, based in Richardson, would have quadrupled and they would have probably had to rely on duck or grackle wings to meet the demand. As it is, Wingstop, with 500 locations, plans to “sauce and toss 5.6 Million Wings on Super Sunday.”

UPDATE: I received a voice mail from Richard Chamberlain. “Michael Costa worked for us briefly 16 years ago,” he said. “In his release he insinuates he is associated with us and that is not the case.”

PRESS RELEASE:

In case you didn’t get the memo, The Office Grill is coming to a neighborhood near you…and soon!  Dallas-based veteran restaurateur Michael Costa’s Rainmaker Group (Chamberlain’s, Popolo’s, Mediterraneo, Toscana, Fish, Riviera, and Nobu, to name a few) is in final discussions with a national restaurant consortium whose two chains are a household name and in negotiations with a few other developers to share the Office concept on a much larger scale. On the eve of it’s one-year anniversary, the Office Grill has decided to shut the doors on their North Dallas location to focus on developing the concept for a regional roll-out. “Although we have been so blessed with a great group of patrons, and we’ve made a lot of life-long friends that we hope to see in a few months at our central location, we knew from the onset that this location had some major challenges, if only from the fact that a decade of near-misses preceded us. What this year has given us is the time and the venue to test and tweak The Office Concept into something with broad viability and a strong economic engine. Sometimes it takes pulling back and re-evaluating before you can ramp up for growth of this nature,” says Costa. With an overall vision of closing deals while eating meals, The Office Concept fits perfectly with busy lifestyles, and provides, as one writer put it, “a perfect escape from cubicle hell.” This virtual office offers amenities that allow guests to truly make the office “their own”, such as wifi, printer/copier capabilities, and even a notary to help in sealing the deal. There are also lockers available in the Boardroom for those wanting to leave computers, letterhead, or even their own stapler in-house. “As with any strong brand, the power of the concept is the engine that drives it. It’s no secret that we’ve had a rough year with our lack of landlord support in our present location, but the idea and passion behind the Office Concept has proven consistent with current trending and our culture. People today are busy, and who else is creating a place where one doesn’t mind staying late at the Office?” Costa says. “We are very excited about the opportunity to roll the concept of turning work into play out in more communities in 2012.” Initial plans include the finalization of the locations for an Office Grill near downtown Dallas and in Houston and San Antonio. For more information, contact Michael Costa at 214.402.7357.

I am speechless.

The writ could be the final blow for Costa’s vigorous attempt to keep his business alive despite a legal battle with his landlord Scott Larson (18020 N. Dallas Parkway Partners, LTD) that began on June, 2011. Through a series of twist and turns including switching lawyers, countersuits, and appeals, Costa managed to buy himself some time. However, on January 18, 2012, the Court of Appeals dismissed Costa’s case. (Public documents here and here.)

Jump for the rest of the story.

Costa’s battles began the minute he opened the doors to The Office Grill early March 2011. Over the last year, I have chronicled his history of writing bad checks to employees and vendors and his run-ins with the TABC.

November 3, 2010: Controversial Restaurateur Michael Costa is Back in the Restaurant Business.

May 27, 2011: How Michael Costa Keeps Screwing Restaurants.

June 22, 2011: Something is Going on With Michael Costa at The Office Grill.

September 9, 2011: Michael Costa of The Office Grill Arrested.

September 20, 2011: Michael Costa Arrested by TABC.

October 12, 2011: Michael Costa Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy.

About two months ago, I started getting more calls from unpaid workers and I began following the legal proceedings. This morning, after I learned that Costa received an order to vacate the premises, I drove to the Office Grill. Costa and another person were loading equipment from the restaurant into a trailer. Does this mean he will vacate the property at 10AM tomorrow morning? After watching him juke and jive around the law for the last year, I suppose anything is possible. The courts have decided in favor of the landlord. And Deputy Harris of the Plano Police Department tells me he will be there, with backup, at 10AM.

Good wines gone bad.

Forgive me Master Sommeliers and wine collectors around the world, I have sinned. I am here to confess my deepest darkest wine secret: I improperly stored four bottles of fabulous wine. For nearly 35 years.

Look at the photos and weep with (for?) me. I recently uncovered these bottles in a box buried beneath a pile of old Christmas decorations in my garage. Yes, my garage, where it sat for close to 35 summers, winters, springs, and falls. I am a human species of Phylloxera.

I could have pulled another Billionaire’s Vinegar and called Sotheby’s and claimed the wine was given to me by Richard Nixon and I’ve kept it hidden in a bricked-up Paris cellar. Instead I’m posting pictures of my crime. Perhaps there are others who have committed the same dirty deed.

Full confession below.

Yes, $19.79 before my employee discount.

Self portrait.

I used to collect wine, especially French wine. Specifically those of Bordeaux. I worked at a wine bar in Dallas called La Cave and spent my off time learning about French wine. My former boss, François Chandou, still runs La Cave Warehouse.  He is my witness. I bought hundreds of bottles of French Bordeaux. I wore a laminated vintage chart around my neck and scoured wine shops and wine lists looking for the best.

Eventually, I drank it all. Well, except for these four bottles. Is there anything I can do? Do I even attempt to drink them? (Does anyone want to buy them?)

I would like to take this moment to apologize to Bacchus, Dionysos, the early colonists of Southern Gaul, the concept of terroir, Baron Philippe de Rothschild (and subsequent Barons), James Tidwell, and Drew Hendricks. My deepest regrets to the chateaus: Latour, Mouton-Rothchild, Margaux (oh, sweet Margaux), Haut-Brion, Petrus, Pomerol, St. Emilion, and d’Yquem. Sorrows to you dear Cabernet Savignon, Merlot, and Cab Franc grapes. You gave your lives only to sit in a bottle in a box underneath a pile of old Christmas decorations in my garage. I am unworthy of your grace.

There is about a half inch of sediment in the neck of this bottle.

Sorry lion-guarded fortresses of France.

This wine was my first true love. We sold it for $4 a glass at La Cave. At one point I owned two cases.

Heinous. Painful. Wrong.

I was reading through Pegasus News when I ran across this incredible story: Morgan Wilson, who made it to the finals last year on Top Chef Just Desserts, has been indicted for possession of child pornography.

He is charged with not one, not two, but THREE second-degree felony charges of possession with intent to promote child pornography. His arrest was last December. Terms of his release included the monitoring of his internet activity and a $10,000 bond.

Wilson is still listed as the executive pastry chef at the Ritz-Carlton in Dallas, but is scheduled to appear in front of a Collin County judge on October 27.  Nancy texted Dean Fearing, execuchef of Fearing’s at the Ritz, and he texted back “No comment!!!!”

On Top Chef, Wilson seemed like such a suave, collected, although short-tempered, guy. As a regular follower of all-things-food related on TV, I watched Wilson and was proud that he was representing Plano on national TV. Now it feels weird to think that when I was watching the show, he’d already been arrested for having images of child pornography on his computer.

I may never be able to eat another cannoli again.

This morning comes word that a new scam is making the rounds. This time, it’s switched to an email:

How are you doing today? This Mr. John Morgan speaking, I will like to place an order to go, can i speak with the owner about the order? My Mom birthday is coming up on the 20th of October and i will like to place an order for 150 grill chicken sandwich with salad individual pack for the 150 guest, It will be pick up by 3pm on the given date, So can i know the price per person and the total cost for the order plus tax. Can i have your full restaurant address and your name so i can forward to the carrier that will be coming for the pick up of the order once the food is ready by 3pm on the given date and i want you to promise me and assure me you going to prepaire (sic) the food nice and delicious.

If you get this email and fall for it, I have no sympathy for you. If you get one, let me know.

Anybody have some suggestions for the former employees when it comes tax time? We never received check stubs or info on the taxes taken out of them, that is when we did get them and they didn’t bounce.

I contacted Gregory P. Williams, a CPA with Restaurant CFO Partners in Plano. He has a lot of answers. They are below. I’ve also included his contact information if you have more questions.

Here’s Greg:

Good question!  Below are the official IRS procedures to follow in this situation.  Even in bankruptcy, employers generally send out W-2’s.  If this is not the case in this situation, then I anticipate that the employee will have to follow procedures 2 & 3 and estimate their earnings.

If you haven’t received your W-2, follow these four steps:

1. Contact your employer -If you have not received your W-2, contact your employer to inquire if and when the W-2 was mailed. If it was mailed, it may have been returned to the employer because of an incorrect or incomplete address. After contacting the employer, allow a reasonable amount of time for them to resend or to issue the W-2.

2. Contact the IRS –  If you do not receive your W-2 by February 14th, contact the IRS for assistance at 800-829-1040. When you call, you must provide your name, address, city and state, including zip code, Social Security number, phone number and have the following information:

• Employer’s name, address, city and state, including zip code and phone number

• Dates of employment

• An estimate of the wages you earned, the federal income tax withheld, and when you worked for that employer during 2010. The estimate should be based on year-to-date information from your final pay stub or leave-and-earnings statement, if possible.

3. File your return – You still must file your tax return or request an extension to file April 16, 2012, even if you do not receive your Form W-2. If you have not received your Form W-2 by the due date, and have completed steps 1 and 2, you may use Form 4852, Substitute for Form W-2, Wage and Tax Statement. Attach Form 4852 to the return, estimating income and withholding taxes as accurately as possible.  There may be a delay in any refund due while the information is verified.

4. File a Form 1040X – On occasion, you may receive your missing W-2 after you filed your return using Form 4852, and the information may be different from what you reported on your return. If this happens, you must amend your return by filing a Form 1040X, Amended U.S. Individual Income Tax Return.

Gregory P. Williams

Restaurant CFO Partners

701 E. 15th Street

Suite 201

Plano, TX 75074

Tel: 972-633-8999

On September 30, the landlord, 18020 N. Dallas Parkway, LTD filed a motion to convert the Chapter 11 filing to a Chapter 7. Chapter 11 means creditors are held off until reorganization or refinancing is obtained. Chapter 7 means there is no hope for reorganization and assets are to be distributed to creditors. A meeting of the creditors is scheduled for November 7.

The chef left right after Costa was arrested by the TABC on September 20 and Costa’s liquor license is suspended. He’s operating without a sales tax license, liquor license, and a chef? I’ll say this, the guy doesn’t go down easy.

Here is a pdf of the motion filed by 1820N. Dallas Parkway, LTD

Anywhoo, I’m digging away and get off task. Oh, look! I find a permit pulled for a restaurant at 624 642 W. Davis. I’m not telling you the name of the LLC because Teresa Gubbins will be all over it like hot on fried bubblegum. I contacted several HIGH PROFILE restaurant people in The OC for info. Oh yes, they all know who and what it is, but none of them are talking. Okay, guys. I’ll remember that the next time you send me a press release about your new bartender or your fall brunch menu. Hah! Two can play this game. Grrr.