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Articles about Food Crime

Food Writing Will Not Die an Easy Death at D Magazine

Yesterday, Carol noted Amanda Hesser’s claim that professional food writing is dead. I have a few thoughts on that.

Getting paid to write anything is almost dead. Unless you consider composing a 140-character pithy news item as writing. I suppose it is: Steve Martin just released a book of his tweets. But he is Steve Martin. The odds of a writer of any kind hitting that kind of jackpot has always been low.

Publications are shrinking. There are fewer jobs in the publishing business, not just food writing. We hear from people everyday looking for work as editors, art designers, and free lancers. Interns taking journalism classes still spend time in our offices, but instead of gathering “clips” from the magazine, they turn in blog posts for college credit. The internet has offered opportunities to anyone who can text, tweet, or post Facebook updates to gather a following and be whatever authority they want to be. The chances of them making a dollar are slim. That progression seems to be the new face of food writing. Is that good or bad? Who has the time to argue? It’s reality. Instead of trying to change it, I attempt to embrace it.

Jump off the cliff with me. (more…)

Michael Costa is Now Working for Sneaky Pete’s in Lewisville

FYI, Michael Costa and his sidekick Brian Luisi have resurfaced at Sneaky Pete’s in Lewisville. According to a nice gentleman who just answered the phone at Sneaky Pete’s, the duo has been hired as consultants.

Leslie Brenner Puts Broccolimania Over Tornado Warnings

We had to evacuate our offices three times today because of tornado warnings. I’m hunkered down in the parking garage reading Twitter for news and I run across this tweet by Leslie Brenner:

“Yes, I know a tornado’s headed our way, but I just got a broccoli recipe from Justin Yu at Oxheart in Houston!”

Well, Leslie. Could you whip it up and ship it over to those of us trapped in a parking garage downtown? Pair with appropriate wine, please.

Texting at The Table: A Necessary Evil? I Don’t Think So.

I just returned from a 16-day vacation. The food, scenery, and activities were superb, but the best part for me was going that long without technology. I admit the first five days were hard. My hand twitched nervously without a cell phone in it. My heart palpitated at the sight of my laptop. It was difficult to turn the on/off switch to off because my brain works on a dimmer. Finally, I forgot about the cell. Mainly because nobody around me had one. I went to meals and actually spoke with strangers. There is a noticeable difference in the dining experience without technology.

Upon arrival at Miami International Airport, I was stunned to find 92 percent of the people attempting to go through immigration, luggage retrieval, and customs while texting. I felt like I landed in a world of zombies. People ran their wheeled Tumi bags over my feet without noticing. They held up lines because they were distracted. I vowed not to go back to that.

Texting at the dinner table is not a new issue. I have a friend, oh we’ll call him Belevan, who texts in the car, in a movie, and at tables in fine restaurants. His defense is that he has to be available at all times. It’s a horrible emotional tornado that whips up when you text, Facebook, Tweet everything you do. I’m guilty. My job is time sensitive and dependent on instant information, but I am drawing the line now at the dinner table. There is nothing worse than talking to the top of someone’s head while they text in their lap.

It must drive restaurateurs nuts. Service people as well. It’s rude and disrespectful to the people you are eating with and the food you are eating. Anybody have a suggestion for how to stop the madness? Perhaps restaurants should add a phone usage charge to the bill.

Nana Restaurant in Dallas to Close in June and Reopen as a Steakhouse in September

My Last Supper at Nana: Grilled duck with beets. Photography by Kevin Marple.

This news breaks my heart. Nana Restaurant at the Hilton Anatole, led by the talented and innovative chef Anthony Bombaci, will close on June 9. The restaurant will undergo reconstructive surgery and emerge as an upscale steak house in late September.

Here are some of the details I’ve beat out the bushes. The new name has not been selected. (We can certainly help with that. Leave your suggestion below.) The interior, designed by a California firm, will be “contemporary with an LA-inspired design.” (The skyline view will remain Dallas’!) The menu will be “all about steaks and one-of-a-kind sides and desserts.” The executive chef of the steakhouse hasn’t been confirmed, but that person will work under Anthony Bombaci who has been promoted. I don’t know his position at this point.

Oh, Nana. You have been such a blessing to this city. We loved you when Doug Brown was the chef and Jason Foss was the pastry chef. We loved you during the fancy days when David McMillan sent entrees out of Versace and Rosenthal china and general manager and wine expert Paul Pinnell roamed the room. We love you for bringing Anthony Bombaci to Dallas. This news makes me appreciate my last meal at Nana even more.

Make a final visit and pay homage to Nana. You have a little over three months to get your Bombaci fix. Make a reservation now: 214-761-7470. And name the new restaurant below!

National Chicken Council Projects Sales of 25 Billion Wings in 2012. Richardson-Based Wingstop Expects to Pluck 5.6 Million.

I once made my opinion of the (worthless) honeydew melon very clear. Today I bring up the yucky chicken wing. They have never appealed to me but apparently I am in the minority. This morning comes word from the National Chicken Council: “More than 1.25 billion wings will be consumed during Super Bowl weekend (100 million pounds!), and, if they were laid end-to-end they would circle the circumference of the Earth – more than twice – a distance that would reach approximately a quarter of the way to the moon.”

My initial response is: if you can circle the earth twice, why don’t you just drop off a few million pounds in places where one chicken for a village causes more excitement than the Super Bowl.

My secondary response is actually a question: How many chickens does it take to make 25 billion chicken wings. Hah! You say: do the math dummy; one chicken has only two wings. But your assumption would be wrong. I turned to the Wing-onomics department (true!) at The National Chicken Council for an answer.

You’ll have to jump because you, like chickens, cannot fly.

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Michael Costa Starts a Spin on His Eviction From The Office Grill

As I was writing the post about Michael Costa getting evicted from The Office Grill, Teresa Gubbins at PegasusNews received a press release from Costa. The Spin Doctor begins with: “In case you didn’t get the memo…” Oh my…jump.

UPDATE: I received a voice mail from Richard Chamberlain. “Michael Costa worked for us briefly 16 years ago,” he said. “In his release he insinuates he is associated with us and that is not the case.”

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Warning to Vacate Premises Issued to Michael Costa at The Office Grill

Michael Costa has fought a long battle to keep his paws on The Office Grill. However, after two lawsuits, five lawyers, and one too many hot checks, this morning Costa was slapped with a warning to vacate the premises. Costa and crew have until 10AM tomorrow morning to turn over the keys. “I posted a warning to vacate this morning,” Collin County Deputy Constable Harris from Precinct 3 in Plano. “The writ tells him to turn it to the landlord tomorrow morning. It’s my job to see he turns the property back to the landlord.”

The writ could be the final blow for Costa’s vigorous attempt to keep his business alive despite a legal battle with his landlord Scott Larson (18020 N. Dallas Parkway Partners, LTD) that began on June, 2011. Through a series of twist and turns including switching lawyers, countersuits, and appeals, Costa managed to buy himself some time. However, on January 18, 2012, the Court of Appeals dismissed Costa’s case. (Public documents here and here.)

Jump for the rest of the story.

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Confession: I am Guilty of a Heinous Wine Crime

Good wines gone bad.

Forgive me Master Sommeliers and wine collectors around the world, I have sinned. I am here to confess my deepest darkest wine secret: I improperly stored four bottles of fabulous wine. For nearly 35 years.

Look at the photos and weep with (for?) me. I recently uncovered these bottles in a box buried beneath a pile of old Christmas decorations in my garage. Yes, my garage, where it sat for close to 35 summers, winters, springs, and falls. I am a human species of Phylloxera.

I could have pulled another Billionaire’s Vinegar and called Sotheby’s and claimed the wine was given to me by Richard Nixon and I’ve kept it hidden in a bricked-up Paris cellar. Instead I’m posting pictures of my crime. Perhaps there are others who have committed the same dirty deed.

Full confession below. (more…)

Top Chef Just Desserts Finalist, Morgan Wilson, Indicted for Child Pornography

D Magazine intern Jessica Melton was surfing the internet and came up with this doozie of a newsy story.

I was reading through Pegasus News when I ran across this incredible story: Morgan Wilson, who made it to the finals last year on Top Chef Just Desserts, has been indicted for possession of child pornography.

He is charged with not one, not two, but THREE second-degree felony charges of possession with intent to promote child pornography. His arrest was last December. Terms of his release included the monitoring of his internet activity and a $10,000 bond.

Wilson is still listed as the executive pastry chef at the Ritz-Carlton in Dallas, but is scheduled to appear in front of a Collin County judge on October 27.  Nancy texted Dean Fearing, execuchef of Fearing’s at the Ritz, and he texted back “No comment!!!!”

On Top Chef, Wilson seemed like such a suave, collected, although short-tempered, guy. As a regular follower of all-things-food related on TV, I watched Wilson and was proud that he was representing Plano on national TV. Now it feels weird to think that when I was watching the show, he’d already been arrested for having images of child pornography on his computer.

I may never be able to eat another cannoli again.


Restaurants Beware: New Order Scam is Making the Rounds

Last year,  hundreds of restaurants in the U.S. were ripped off by a caller who placed a large catering order to be picked up by a delivery service. The caller instructed the restaurant to add a $500 to the credit card bill and give it to the delivery service. I know it sound ludicrous that anyone would fall for this, but obviously some folks did. 

This morning comes word that a new scam is making the rounds. This time, it’s switched to an email:

How are you doing today? This Mr. John Morgan speaking, I will like to place an order to go, can i speak with the owner about the order? My Mom birthday is coming up on the 20th of October and i will like to place an order for 150 grill chicken sandwich with salad individual pack for the 150 guest, It will be pick up by 3pm on the given date, So can i know the price per person and the total cost for the order plus tax. Can i have your full restaurant address and your name so i can forward to the carrier that will be coming for the pick up of the order once the food is ready by 3pm on the given date and i want you to promise me and assure me you going to prepaire (sic) the food nice and delicious.

If you get this email and fall for it, I have no sympathy for you. If you get one, let me know.

Restaurant 101: What to do if Your Employer Doesn’t Provide Paycheck Stubs

Yesterday, I posted the news that Michael Costa of The Office Grill filed for bankruptcy. In the comments section, one of Costa’s former employees asked a great question.

Anybody have some suggestions for the former employees when it comes tax time? We never received check stubs or info on the taxes taken out of them, that is when we did get them and they didn’t bounce.

I contacted Gregory P. Williams, a CPA with Restaurant CFO Partners in Plano. He has a lot of answers. They are below. I’ve also included his contact information if you have more questions.

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Raging Bull: The Office Grill Co-Owner Michael Costa Files Chapter 11 Bankruptcy

The Office Grill’s Michael Costa, Texas Bear and Bull, LLC,  filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy on September 26, 2011, six days before he was to appear at hearing to determine if he’d breached his lease agreement. The next day, the Texas Comptroller revoked The Office Grill’s sales tax permit for lack of payment. Legally, The Office Grill can’t operate as a restaurant, yet, as of ten minutes ago, they were open for business.

On September 30, the landlord, 18020 N. Dallas Parkway, LTD filed a motion to convert the Chapter 11 filing to a Chapter 7. Chapter 11 means creditors are held off until reorganization or refinancing is obtained. Chapter 7 means there is no hope for reorganization and assets are to be distributed to creditors. A meeting of the creditors is scheduled for November 7.

The chef left right after Costa was arrested by the TABC on September 20 and Costa’s liquor license is suspended. He’s operating without a sales tax license, liquor license, and a chef? I’ll say this, the guy doesn’t go down easy.

Here is a pdf of the motion filed by 1820N. Dallas Parkway, LTD

Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse on Inwood Re-Opens Today at 11AM

Last week a small fire in two unattached storage sheds caused the temporary closing of the original location of Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse on Inwood Road. They re-open 11AM. On Wednesday, October 12, they will host a celebration with the Guns & Hoses Foundation of North Texas, a non-profit that the company has supported for years. From 11 AM to 8 PM, 25 percent of all sales that day at the Inwood location will be donated to the organization, which provides monetary support to families of fallen fire and police officers, and raises funds to benefit the youth of our community. In addition to the donation, Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse will honor Dallas firefighters from Fire Station 47 with a lunch and an official plaque made from door knobs that were removed from the Inwood restaurant when firefighters responded to the September 27 fire.

Oak Cliff Restaurateurs Keep Secrets About New Restaurants

So, I’m avoiding real work and searching for the scoop on Sissy’s Fried Chicken on Henderson. We all know the general rules of posting CO permits:  The name on the permit in the former Hector on Henderson spot could be the real name of a home cooking or “place holder” for a gay bar. We won’t know until somebody either calls me back or I get lucky on the internet. Owners change names all the time after they’ve applied for a permit.

Anywhoo, I’m digging away and get off task. Oh, look! I find a permit pulled for a restaurant at 624 642 W. Davis. I’m not telling you the name of the LLC because Teresa Gubbins will be all over it like hot on fried bubblegum. I contacted several HIGH PROFILE restaurant people in The OC for info. Oh yes, they all know who and what it is, but none of them are talking. Okay, guys. I’ll remember that the next time you send me a press release about your new bartender or your fall brunch menu. Hah! Two can play this game. Grrr.

History of Dallas Food: Prohibition in Dallas, Part 1

Inspired by the first two episodes of Ken Burn’s Prohibition on KERA, Amy Severson and I did a little digging into some of the details of what was going on in Dallas before, during, and after prohibition. The third, and final, episode is tonight at 9PM. It’s been a fascinating documentary. Today, we scratch the surface of prohibition in Dallas.

Dripping Dry Dallas. That was the name earned by our city after the repeal of prohibition in 1933.

If you’ve watched the first two episodes of Ken Burn’s historical presentation, Prohibition, our country’s brief love affair with forced sobriety, you already know the national temperance movement came about as a reaction to the despair brought on families affected by alcoholism.

Jump.

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Breaking News: Michael Costa Arrested By TABC at The Office Grill in Dallas

TABC officers and Michael Costa (light blue shirt to right) outside The Office Grill in Dallas. (Photo by Nancy Nichols)

This evening, around 6:40PM, officers from the TABC entered The Office Grill in far North Dallas (Frankford and Tollway) and arrested co-owner Michael Costa. I’m awaiting information on the specific charges of the arrest but his business (Lucky 7 Private Club) has appeared consistently on the TABC credit law delinquent list which is released every two weeks.  The most recent was published yesterday. (A detailed explanation of why a business is included on the list is below the jump.)

Costa was handcuffed inside the restaurant and taken to Collin County Jail.

The Office Grill co-owner Michael Costa once again behind bars. (Photo by Nancy Nichols)


Tonight’s arrest is the second for Costa this month.  On September 13, Costa was arrested for a bond forfeiture for theft of $1,500<20k.”

Jump for TABC rules.

UPDATE: I have turned the comments off until I have more details about the situation. Sorry, but thanks.

UPDATE: Comments on.

UPDATE: I’ve been on deadline all day. According to an officer of the Collin County Jail, Michael Costa was arrested for two charges. Both were “an act prohibited during permit suspension.” Since the TABC arrested Costa it looks like Costa’s liquor license was suspended and he continued to sell alcohol. Both charges are misdemeanors and bond for each charge was set at $1,500. Costa bonded out earlier this afternoon. Mug shot below.

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Dallas We Have a Problem: Pre-Theater Dining at One Arts Plaza

Monday night, the Winspear Opera house hosted a sold-out concert featuring Kathleen Edwards, a Canadian folk and country singer, and Bon Iver. Yesterday, one concert attendee, Dallas Observer critic Scott Reitz, wrote a post about the ridiculously expensive “petite sandwiches” served at the concession stand. He posted a picture of what looked to be space food canapes—little Pacman-shaped bread circles with a slice of roasted beef. A little later, I received an email from a reader who’d tried to dine at The Commissary on Monday night. The place was jammed. The reader said the food was good but the service was a disaster.

In the comments section of Reitz’s post, the ubiquitous Jon Alexis (jonfromtjs) made some remarks that rocked my opinion of One Arts Plaza. I admire Lucy Billingsley and her vision of creating a space where Arts District patrons can dine before and after a show. However, Jon pointed out the problems on Monday night. Snippets: “Commissary delicious but slammed, understaffed, and stressed;” “Screen Door, chef working bar, poor lady so frazzled she’s knocking glasses over;” “Jorge’s, one bartender for 20 people at the bar.” Both Tei-An and Fedora were closed.

Jon brings up a great point. “Can the restaurants not look at the schedule and see when a concert is sold out MONTHS prior that they should staff up?” I thought Screen Door offered pre-event dinners but perhaps they only run for larger events. The patio area is a perfect place to hang before and after events. I would think the already struggling restaurants would at least stick a buffet table outside and serve some drinks. Or call in the food trucks. This is a perfect scenario for One Arts on what would otherwise be a slow Monday night. I’m sure the Kathleen Edwards concert drew a crowd that would have returned to any of the places at One Arts Plaza if they’d been impressed. Now, all they remember are plastic packets of Pacman canapés made by Wolfgang Puck Catering. But don’t get me started on that again. (Wolfgang Puck? Why not a local caterer.)

Michael Costa, Owner of The Office Grill in Dallas, Arrested

Michael Costa's mug shot. September 7, 2011.

I have been chronicling the career of Michael Costa for a couple of years. Costa has been a restaurant consultant in Dallas since the early ‘90s. In spring of 2009, I wrote several posts about his misbehavior and his penchant for writing hot checks at Las Colinas Prime . In October of 2010, I reported that Costa had resurfaced as a principal partner at The Office Grill. Soon after The Office opened, I received phone calls and emails from disgruntled workers who claimed Costa was writing bad checks and not paying vendors. I spoke with Costa and wrote a story his shady operations in the May issue of D Magazine.

This morning, I learned Costa was arrested last night for an outstanding warrant. So far, the only details I have received from James Yarbrough at the Dallas County Sheriff’s office are that Costa was picked up last night for “a bond forfeiture for theft of $1,500<20k.” According to another source, Costa spent the night at Decker Detention Center in jail and was released this morning. I am waiting for the full police report.

Google Acquires Zagat Empire. Now What?

I’m not sure if what I’m feeling is shock or dismay, but Google has agreed to become the new proud owner of Zagat, that old warhorse of dining guides that shepherded us all through the 80s and 90s with comprehensible ratings and purse-sized books. Everyone from the New York Times to Huffington Post is covering the financial and social implications of such a merger; the deal will be discussed to death, for certain. But I’m interested in what this is going to do to the ever-corroding ethics of restaurant reviewing. Google touts the acquisition as a way to expand its local offerings. So, soon, I imagine, we will start seeing local want ads for “reviewers” popping up on MediaBistro and the like, calling all aspiring foodies to apply. I’ll bet a fiver that “no experience necessary” will show up in the want ad somewhere, as well as the phrase “must love food.”

Tim and Nina Zagat actually cared about the ethics of the review. They built an empire from how much they care. A generation trusted them. With so many new correspondents out there, I’m curious how Google plans to enforce ethics and curb bias.

Your thoughts?