Cannolis (photography by Desiree Espada)

Carbone’s, a week-old Italian restaurant, is already turning into a neighborhood destination for Park Cities residents eager to try Julian Barsotti’s interpretation of Italian-American food. Customers have been trickling into this part-grocery store, part-deli in a steady stream ever since Barsotti’s grand opening last Tuesday, keeping his staff on its toes. “It’s been very busy. I didn’t anticipate being this busy right off the bat,” says Barsotti.

When I visited Carbone’s on Wednesday, it was 1 PM and all the tables (save two, maybe) were taken. Barsotti was crouched down next to an elderly couple, easy to spot in his Adidas shoes and red plaid shorts, and probably on the receiving end of the couple’s congratulations for the elegant layout of his store.

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Olive oil bottles (left); Diners enjoying lunch (right)

Family photos of Julian’s maternal side adorn the same wall that sells American wine by the bottle and by the glass. To the right is a small section where you can buy dried penne pasta in sealed brown bags, Louisiana hot sauce, and olive salad in jars. Big glass windows cover the front of Carbone’s, letting natural light bathe the simple wooden tables and chairs in warm April sunshine. A small cactus plant spruced up the table where I munched on my Italian combo hero (mortadella, soppressata, and coppa meats with light vinaigrette, fresh onion, and chopped lettuce). It came with a side of crispy homemade potato chips (you can order a side of salad greens if you prefer), but I was a tad disappointed that the meatball shortage that day meant, well, no meatball hero for me.

At that point, the DMN hadn’t written a word about Julian’s meatballs yet, and Julian had only figured out his meatballs were popular because he was running out of them so quickly.

The deli counter where you can buy meats and cheese

“I didn’t anticipate the demand being that high,” Barsotti admits, “But we’re going to up our amount, for sure.” This means more labor for Julian since grinding the meat from a Berkshire pork shoulder in-house is a long, drawn-out process. But this isn’t the only change that Julian will be making to his menu. For one thing, the bread he was using for his heroes is going to go. Though the bread was dense and perfect for dipping into olive oil, it was too tough for the likes of a lunchtime sandwich. Something lighter will take its place, but Julian isn’t sure what it will be yet. The potato chips might make an exit as well, although I’m firmly opposed to this consideration. Those salty chips with the slightly burned edges beat the pants off bagged potato chips from any source. The fact that my leftover chips were still crunchy and relatively unaltered after three hours in my stuffy car means they’re champions. Chip champions.

Spaghetti and meatballs

“My motto is to evolve and improve,” says Barsotti. He aims to be as hospitable as possible to every customer who walks through the door. Before Carbone’s had even opened, two teenage boys came in asking for a glass of water. Julian walked to the back for the glasses and came back to find his phone and the kids both gone. Not only does that explain why Barsotti wasn’t answering my photographer’s texts and phone calls, this incident also explains what Carbone’s is all about: a neighborhood place where residents can flock and rest assured that Julian Barsotti will most certainly care for them. Even if that means losing his phone again.

Julian Barsotti packing orders (right)

Interior seating for Chicken Scratch (left); Home-style buttermilk biscuits served family-style (right) [photos by Desiree Espada

A funny thing happens when you pull into the parking lot that leads to Chicken Scratch, a week-old restaurant conceived by masterminds Christopher Zielke, Christopher Jeffers, and Chef Tim Byres of SMOKE. First, the smell of fried chicken strikes your nose like hot oil; second, you hear birds chirping (and suddenly a sense of guilt washes over you for what you’re about to eat); and third, after you get out of your car, you find yourself passing through an enormous structure that looks like a gigantic chicken coop. It might as well have a sign plastered to the front that reads, “Welcome, little chickadee, to the world of chicken.”

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Interior with oversized windows and community table (left); Mexican-inspired local and naturally flavored popsicles (right)

Fried chicken with oregano-vinegar-honey sauce, elbow mac & cheese, and homemade biscuit

Chicken Scratch is really the brainchild of Tim Byres, the award-winning chef of SMOKE. Having two kids posed a difficulty when there weren’t too many restaurants around Dallas that would allow his offspring to run around, so Byres and his partners built an enclosed outdoor space where kids could play safely while their parents ate fried chicken with a beer or two. Heavy shipping containers create the boundary for Chicken Scratch, barricading it from the trailer park to the left and post office in the back. Chris Jeffers’ wife furnished the clunky metal containers with furniture she bought from thrift stores on Jefferson Avenue. “They’re not even second hand; it’s probably third or fourth hand, and it’s the last stop this furniture is going to make,” says Jeffers.

Performance stage in patio area outside of The Foundry made of reclaimed wooden pallets

It’s hard not to go on and on about the design of this place – it really is. Just about every piece of furniture and design – from the hanging lamps fashioned out of crates to the wall decor – is a lesson in recycling. The wooden stage that hosted its first live jam session last Saturday is constructed entirely out of reused pallets stacked on top of each other. Gary Buckner, the “King of Repurposing,” is the man behind this structure, and he’s also the person to blame in case the stage ever comes crashing down. (Don’t worry, it probably won’t happen.)

Chicken Scratch exterior strung with patio lights and cactus landscaping

Seasoned rotisserie chicken

Two buildings with air conditioning sit on the right edge of the outdoor space, and that’s where you’ll hide if the weather’s acting up. Inside Chicken Scratch, you can order your chicken rotisserie or fried in quarter, half, or whole sizes. There are a few options (like the quinoa and chunky vegetables plate; lettuce, sprouts, seeds, and tofu salad; and hummus with saltine crackers) for vegetarians and vegans, but the focus is mainly on the chicken, which is undeniably good. I’ve said this before in my Sissy’s post, but to reiterate: I am not a huge fan of fried chicken. Not-so-begrudgingly, I foresee my conversion into one because of places like Chicken Scratch, where the peppery skin falls off easily and reveals tender, moist meat underneath. My lunch partner had to stop me from picking at the fried skin crumbs on my tin plate and told me to try his rotisserie chicken, which I couldn’t stop burying my teeth into. Try both types of chicken with the oregano-vinegar-honey sauce or crackling gravy, and really, you have yourself a meal made in heaven.

The only complaint I have pertains to the crumbly biscuits. I’m used to eating flaky, buttery and puffed-up biscuits from my four years in North Carolina, and Chicken Scratch’s couldn’t hold up to my measure of fluff.

At one point, I asked Jeffers why popsicles (in cantaloupe, piña colada, strawberry, mango, and lime) are the only dessert offering they have on the menu. He tells me I’ll understand when I have children of my own some day. “Popsicles solve so many problems when you’re a parent. When kids go crazy or get cranky, it’s a great quick reward, but it doesn’t fill them up.” Genius.

The Foundry seating and bar area (left); Succulents in recycled beer can (right)

I haven’t gotten a chance to venture into The Foundry, the bar that sits next to Chicken Scratch, but Jeffers tells me that it’s been getting good business so far. At night, the whole outdoor space lights up and becomes a cozy spot for friends and families to hang out with their beers and kids (two words you hardly see used together in a restaurant write-up). Even for those who can’t stand being around kids, the space is large enough for them to avoid small people. They can stay inside or outside, linger in the chicken coop area, lounge in one of the shipping containers, or take a walk near the garden the partners are growing off to the side. It’s really the best of both worlds. No, more like three. Or four.

]]> http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/2012/04/05/first-take-restaurant-review-chicken-scratch-the-foundry/feed/ 19 http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/2012/01/31/first-take-bridge-bistro/ http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/2012/01/31/first-take-bridge-bistro/#comments Tue, 31 Jan 2012 20:15:33 +0000 Carol Shih http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/?p=35398

Shrimp and crawfish enchiladas (photography by Desiree Espada)

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Kay and Margaux Agnew (left); Bistro exterior

The Design: Glass panes cover the front of Bridge Bistro and face Riverfront Street, so please don’t pick your teeth while you’re dining. Drivers will be able to see you. Soak in the natural light, which balances nicely with the dark, neutral colors inside (i.e. black tablecloths, black chairs, white walls, except for one pop of bright orange). Kay’s still using her old furniture from Margaux’s, but she’s planning on switching the chairs out for some comfortable and contemporary pieces from OFS. In a few months, the blank wall will be covered with art decor that’s still “under wraps,” and an additional staircase is going to lead to a rooftop garden where diners can enjoy a breathtaking view of Downtown Dallas.

Homegrown herbs (left); The interior

The Kitchen: Chef Manuel Contreras has been working with Kay Agnew for the last 15 years. She loves him because he doesn’t have a big ego. We love him because his menu infuses Cajun, Texan (if that’s a cuisine), and upscale deli.

Chef Manuel's brisket plate with mini buns and slaw

The Menu: According to Kay, loyal customers are still ordering what they used to order at Margaux’s (even though it’s not on the menu anymore). I guess that means you have permission too. Shrimp and crawfish enchiladas, pasta chandelier, and crawfish étouffée are still entree options, but Manuel has added more à la carte sandwiches and salads for busy take-out people. Dine-in folks get warm, doughy bread and cornbread to start off their meals, and the help of attentive staff.

The Crowd: On the weekday we visited, we saw some power-lunching ladies, middle-aged couples, and some suits discussing business. The quiet, cool atmosphere makes the place a great setting for lunchtime meetings. Millenials should catch on, though, as soon as they figure out that Bridge Bistro has a full bar serving some serious cocktails.

The Prices: Not too shabby. The three of us spent somewhere around $35 for two entrees (which came with a soup or salad) and a sandwich order. Entrees run between $12-$16, while sandwiches are priced between $8-$9. Completely worth the price for fresh ingredients that you know are prepared with love and care.

Pecan pie

Wowza: Sweet potato bisque, apricot & field greens salad, and the shrimp and crawfish enchiladas with rice pilaf.

Oak Restaurant in the Dallas Design District. Photography by Desiree Espada.

What to Expect: To be knocked out by the interior design and the food. The space, designed by PLAN B (Royce Ring & Alex Urrunaga) worked closely with owners Richard and Tiffanee Ellman to create a modern, contemporary living room where couches replace booths. Veteran Tommy (Candleroom, Sunset Lounge, The Dram) DeAlano, also a partner, oversees the day-to-day operations. The threesome have created the perfect attitude for Oak’s location in the Dallas Design District.

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From the Top: Owners Richard & Tiffanee Ellman and Tommy DeAlano, Moroccan Octopus & Pork Jowls, Cocktail: The Mighty Oak, Dining Room, Gianduja Chocolate Panna Cotta with Patron Citronage ice cream, Large comfy booths, Mediterranean Bronzino, 7-ounce Grilled Filet of Beef, Projection of rustling Oak Tree. Photography by Desiree Espada.

The Vibe: Sophisticated and sexy. Once you open the front door, you can survey the whole room. The side walls are original brick; the back wall is illuminated by a framed quivering oak tree which is projected from a camera in the ceiling. The couches are dark brown, the carpet is shades of beige taupe, and olive, the tables are light oak and the chairs are upholstered in a putty grey flannel. Almost all of the furniture was made next door in the Design District.

The Kitchen: Executive chef Jason Maddy’s pedigreed history: worked with chef David  Bouley at Danube (NYC), executive sous chef at Driskill  Hotel (Austin), chef de cuisine at The Mansion under John Tesar and continued when chef  Bruno Davaillon took over in 2009. His sous chef, Brian Zenner: sous chef under Chef Pascal Chareau at Fenouil in Portland (Oregon), executive of chef at Portland’s Matchbox Lounge, and sous chef at The Mansion under Executive Chef Bruno Davaillon. Pastry chef: Chef Sarah Green spent the last three years working at The 2nd Floor Restaurant and Bar.

The Menu: Simple, clean, global, and elegant. Extensive travelers chef Maddy and owners Richard & Tiffanee Ellman have a story to go along with each dish. Moroccan octopus and pork jowls was inspired by a dish the Ellmans discovered on their honeymoon to North Africa. Maddy cooked in Austria and he brings a stellar version of veal schnitzel to Dallas. A Caesar salad is tossed with mint dressing and a rack of lamb is rubbed with berbere, an exotic spice from Ethiopia, and served perfectly warm and rosey red.

The Price Point: Appetizers ($8-$14) Entrees: ($18 for pappardelle with marble potato, dandelion pesto, San Marzano tomatoes, and fennel to $28 for the aforementioned lamb).

The Wow Factor: Celery root fries rubbed with Hungarian paprika and black pepper.

The Wine List: Short, global, and personal. Some usuals: Caymus and Sliver Oak Cabs. Some unusuals: Plumpjack Merlot from Napa Valley. Some personal: Boekenhoutskloot “The Chocolate Black” from, like Richard Ellman, South Africa.

The Bar: The cocktail program is designed and executed by Abe Bedell, the veteran mixologist from Victor Tango’s. His innovative cocktails are 4-or-6 step concoctions so thirsty patrons don’t have a long wait for their hand-crafted drink.

The Crowd: Once they open for lunch on February 1, expect the place to be jammed with designers and their clients. Currently they crowd the stunning rain forest green granite bar top at happy hour and slide over to a table for dinner. The night I visited, I spotted young couples from Uptown and a few of my contemporaries (fiftysomethings).

Pull up a chair at Sundown's cozy bar. (photography by Jason Acton)

Sundown Tea (photography by Jason Acton)

The Concept: Sundown at Granada is the Granada Theater’s neighboring restaurant and bar with a long list of draft beers and hand-crafted cocktails. Although I’m sure you can grab a bite pre-show, I would be filled with panic watching a line get longer next door while shoveling down the last forkfulls of food and chugging the rest of a beer. This is a perfect spot, however, to discuss your favorite act post-performance and perhaps mingle with band members, who are sure to wander over for a bite.

Who’s There: Thirty-somethings interested in enjoying some quality time together. (Rather than 20-somethings hollering over their third round of Jager bombs.)

When You Enter, Make a Beeline For: A cozy spot. Long gone are the dramatic reds and blacks that made up M Street Bar. Now you’ll find warm, dark woods and earthy accessories that inspire visions of a lakefront cabin or old library (or both, mixed together). Head to the lounge area, which features vintage-looking chairs and rugs. All that’s missing is a fireplace. I would like to recommend the patio with its long tables befitting groups, but the stinky smoke from the chiminea left us smelling like we’d returned from a camping trip.

photography by Jason Acton

What We Drank: A few cocktails, a few beers. (Food starts this Friday.) We did what I think one should do at fancy cocktail joints: ask the waiter to have the bartender to make his favorite drink. Our server didn’t look thrilled when we asked for “something spicy, whatever the bartender likes.” Either way, he brought us a Sundown Tea, a housemade tea concoction spiced with jalapeno, and a Cucumber Cilantro ‘Tini. Both were tasty, if a little on the sweet side. The beer menu boasts 60 options. Our beer snob buddy is calling it a list of “good” options, “not stellar.” Lagunitas Little Sumpin’ Wild, Samuel Smith’s seasonal Winter Warmer, and the Left Hand Milk Stout got us excited, but we wouldn’t mind seeing a few one-of-a-kind rotating drafts. Although the kitchen wasn’t open yet, a few samples of soon-to-be-served Mexican Pizza was passed around. It was spicy and delicious.

A peaceful nook for cocktails and conversation. (photography by Jason Acton)

What They’re Wearing: Casual stuff. Jeans will do, but if you head over gussied up, don’t fret. You’ll still fit right in.

When the Crowd Arrives: We settled in on a Friday after work, and the bar had plenty of patrons but also plenty of elbow room.

Bottom Line: Sundown is in its beginning stages. Happy hours aren’t yet in place, and food isn’t being served until this Friday, January 13. All in all, though, we’ll call it a decent bar experience that left us feeling like we were hanging out in a friend’s living room. But we’re excited to go back for food and a post-show nightcap.

Check out our Party Pics gallery from Sundown.

Bolsa Mercado. Photography by Elliott Munoz

Just dropped into the new Bolsa Mercado this morning for its public debut and — wow — this place is a game changer for anyone shopping for quality groceries south of the Trinity. It fulfills the market part of the original Bolsa vision offering Tom Spicer greens, local cheeses, organic meats, house made sausage and pastries, a boutique wine/beer selection, gourmet dry goods, and more. Bolsa Mercado also offers sandwiches, panninis, gourmet to go items, and a first-rate coffee bar. Eventually, chefs Jeff Harris, Matt Balke, and team want to make as much in-house as possible and will offer catering from the market’s enormous kitchen, more than double the size of the tiny one at its sibling restaurant located two doors down. Happily, there’s enough diversity and everyday goods to encourage repeated visits. In fact, I’m already plotting my lunchtime return to try the wild boar tart.

The interior of Bistro 31 in Highland Park Village. Photo by Desiree Espada.

Loren Means gives us a snapshot of what to expect at Bistro 31, Alberto Lombardi’s newest creation in Highland Park Village.

What to expect: Prolific restaurateur Alberto Lombardi’s newest creation is in the heart of Highland Park Village. The restaurant is named to honor the year the original structure was built in: 1931. On my trip to the bistro, the Village was packed with shoppers and locals enjoying the holidays. With the holidays in full swing, you might be pressed to find a parking spot but there is valet parking available next door.

Pisco sour. Photo by Desiree Espada.

Setup: The interior is sleek and elegant without feeling stuffy or fancy. Beautiful chandeliers, which were immediately identifiable as Murano glass, hang from the ceilings above the marble topped tables. The floors are oak herringbone, the booths are covered in cream-colored leather, and abstract paintings on the white walls create a very European feel. The open-air patio, tiled floors, and two tops spilling out onto the sidewalk create a true bistro feel. You could be in Italy or the south of France. We opted for a sidewalk table. The weather was perfect for outdoor dining and the ceiling of Christmas lights from all the trees created a lovely atmosphere. If you choose to dine al fresco during the day, I would forgo the sidewalk option as you may feel like you’re eating in a parking lot without the night sky and Christmas lights to disguise it. Additionally, the actual patio has heating and air conditioning as well as a retractable roof that will keep you dry should the weather take a turn.

Caesar salad. Photo by Desiree Espada.

On the menu:  I frequent a handful of Lombardi’s restaurants and have a love affair with Taverna, so I was excited to try Bistro 31. The menu offers dishes from Spain, Italy, and France. They have a broad selection of starters, soups and salads, pastas, and mains. Everything sounded so delicious we had a hard time making decisions. While the house crostini sampler sounded appealing (you can have your choice of three for $7.5 or five for $12) we decided to save that for a happy hour day and moved on to the real stars. To start we had the Steak Tartare “31 style” and the Steamed Pei Mussels. The steak tartare, a blend of Kobe beef and filet, has a hint of Dijon mustard flavor and is served with toast points. The meat melted in my mouth. The mussels have a Spanish flare and were swimming in a slightly spicy sauce studded with chorizo, potatoes, and calabrese chiles. Before our entrees came out, we decided to split the roasted beet and burrata salad. The presentation was stunning with both red and golden beets as well as heirloom cherry tomatoes. The combination of the three ingredients was light, yet indulgent. For our entrées we ordered the Trofie pasta and the Brioche Crusted Lemon Sole. The pasta was cooked to perfection and although it was boasting a Parmesan cream sauce we could still taste the individual flavors of the pancetta and roasted cauliflower. It was wonderful, but a little on the rich side, so splitting was a good choice. The sole was lightly breaded which enabled us to enjoy the fresh flavor of the fish and the béarnaise aioli was served on the side to allow us to control the amount we wanted to use. The fish is served over a bed of Yukon potato mousseline, which needed a quick hit from the salt fairy but were otherwise creamy and buttery as mashed potatoes should be.

Pork chop with gorgonzola grits. Photo by Desiree Espada.

Drinks: The bar area is small but does allow space for guests to have pre-dinner drinks.  The cocktail menu offers a variety of classic cocktails such as the French 75, which I sampled, and specialty cocktails such as the Bistro 31 Homemade Gin & Tonic which my guest opted for.  Most of the French 75’s I’ve ordered were shaken with ice and poured into a martini or shallow champagne glass. At Bistro 31, it is served in a tall glass over ice and didn’t taste like a French 75. The homemade tonic was appreciated but was too tart for my companion’s taste buds. As a fun alternative you can try add-ons for champagne such as fresh orange and elderberry flower or order one of the five varieties of stuffed olives for your martini. The wine list proved to be the winner for us. I love Orin Swift “The Prisoner” Zinfandel which was only offered by the bottle and our server suggested a glass of the Lodi Zinfandel which turned out to be a great substitute and paired nicely with the steak tartare and beet salad. Our faithful server, Bryan, suggested we pair the seafood dish with a Terlano Pinot Grigio which was crisp and easily cut through the cream of the pasta and the béarnaise sauce on the fish. Wines from around the globe are represented and price ranges from $32-$198 per bottle. Wines by the glass are available for $8-$18.

Who was there:  There were two small families with teenage children and a few 30-somethings and 50-somethings peppered about, but Bistro 31 is drawing a mostly 40’s crowd. Everyone in the restaurant was well dressed and fashionable but it was not your Dallas glam scene. Other than the handful of animal prints we spotted, the low key bistro vibe was reflected in the patrons’ apparel.

Pumpkin cranberry bread pudding. Photo by Desiree Espada.

Price: The lamb loin is the most expensive item at $27.

Interior seating. Photo by Desiree Espada.

Nice Detail: Our server was attentive but not invasive. The courses were nicely paced. Dishes were cleared when finished and new ones arrived promptly but at no point did we ever feel rushed. It was a very leisurely meal.

The Takeaway: I look forward to returning soon to try the seared foie gras with roasted figs and pistachios. I’d also like to try their breakfast and lunch menus. If you’re up for an après dinner activity you can hop on a horse-drawn carriage and go on a light tour around Highland Park. Or if you’re looking for something more lively head to the bar at the Marquee Grill to bump elbows with the real housewives of Highland Park and sip on cocktails made by the talented mixologist, Jason Kosmas.

Korean BBQ short ribs with scallions (Photo by Desirée Espada)

The set-up: Raise the flag on the rebirth of the corner of Greenville and Goodwin as Rohst (phonetic for roast) opens in the spot next to Dodie’s (and across from The Grape and Blue Goose). Although this new eatery is still in the soft-opening phase, we paid a visit (undercover, of course) to find out how the new concept—one with a consortium of owners and (gasp) not one celebrity chef in the kitchen—would fare against the ultimate judge and jury: our taste buds.

First of all, hats off to the design team. Even though the frontage would benefit from lighter tint on the windows, the interior’s high ceiling and low lighting provide textbook relief from the oven-like heat outside. We love the mezzanine-style second level, two-story stone mosaic, rough-hewn wood accents, stone flooring, and drum-pendant chandeliers. (Although I wasn’t crazy about the upstairs mural, I do have to give the design team snaps for trying to create a back story involving ancient Korean cave drawings.)

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Korean beef balls (Photo by Desirée Espada)

On the evening we visited, the opening was so soft and under-the-public-radar that my date and I were the only guests for the early part of the evening. Investment partner/manager-on-duty Patrick Kelly (who did not know who we were) greeted us at the door and engaged us immediately. All the while, the waitstaff and support crew of bussers and barbacks never stopped moving—wiping surfaces, aligning chairs. Throughout dinner, my water glass has seldom stayed so full.

Asian coleslaw with carrots and sesame (Photo by Desirée Espada)

On the menu: Rohst is operating under the tagline of “fresh…marinade…grill” and with an acknowledged Korean influence. Some early reviewers have yelped that it’s not Korean enough, which is a shame given how delightful the fare is in its own right. The dishes are solidly constructed, and the ingredients are fresh and of notable quality (and in the case of the meats, admirable marbling). The combination provides a delightful window into Korean-fusion.

We started with the Korean BBQ beef balls—a bowl of scallion-garnished beef meatballs in a semi-sweet, dark sauce. The dish, which debuted as one single big ball and was changed a few days after opening to offer eight to 10 smaller balls, was dense, tender, and savory. A side order of crisp Asian coleslaw with julienned carrots, red cabbage, and scallions complemented the balls’ chewiness with its crisp tooth and tangy dressing.

Rohst house salad with mango (Photo by Desirée Espada)

Whether it was by design or by circumstance, the pace of our meal was waiter-driven as opposed to kitchen driven. As we neared completion of each course, he’d push the next, avoiding any untimely or awkward pile-ups at the table. Which means that (thankfully) we did not receive our Rohst house salad (mixed greens, asparagus, mango, corn, cucumber, grape tomato, peanuts, and red onions with a house-made Asian sesame vinaigrette) until we’d had adequate time to breathe and contemplate the recent flavors. The salad, with its cast-of-thousands ingredients list, came divided in two from the kitchen (another nice touch) and contained a memorably fresh mix of lettuces complemented by fresh mango (is there anything better?) and simple peanuts.

Spicy pork lettuce wraps with tempura green beans (left) I ain't lyin' cocktail (right). (Photos by Desirée Espada)

For our main course, we took the recommendation of our server, Chris, and changed our order from the spare ribs in a stew pot to the Rohst barbecue pork ribs—slow-cooked, hand-brushed, and char-grilled with sauteed onions. The recommendation could not have been more on-target. The meat released from the bone with virtually no effort and was coated in a sauce that was both roasty and sweet—complex without being overbearing. Our second entree, the pork lettuce wrap consisted of slices of spicy pork tenderloin, fried green beans, and sliced apple and was served with iceberg leaves for wrapping. The green beans were the first to disappear. The crispy, lightly salty crust over al dente beans is a combination so winning it’s easy to forget that they are fried. Regardless, they were ancient history by the time we got around to the pork. Our waiter hinted that other guests had found the pork too spicy; we found it just right. Thanks to the kitchen for not toning it down.

Second floor mural depicting "historical Korean cave drawings." (Photo by Desirée Espada)

Thumbs-up to our server who was engaged and chatty, yet experienced enough to know the second it was time for him to get lost and let us eat. He was also the one who explained the concept to us—notably that the kitchen is not chef driven but functions more as an egalitarian nation. I have questions about how that will work in the long term; kitchens, as a rule, function as a hierarchy. But, for now, the restaurant’s structure of shared stewardship among the five ownership partners and the “we’re-all-in-this-together” kitchen philosophy seems to be working. However, the rubber will really meet the road once the word gets out and dinnertime traffic picks up.

Who was there: Neighborhood locals: groups of beshorted older men in for a beer; young families with babies in tow; 30-something dates.

Where to sit: If possible, sit along the rail on the second-floor overlooking the main floor. Not only is the perch primo for people-watching, but the distance from hard surfaces keeps any potential noise problems at bay. (Note: the soft, acoustic ceiling and abundance of natural materials bode well for keeping crowd noise from becoming overwhelming.)

Price: Quite reasonable. The BBQ beef balls ($7), Asian slaw ($4), Rohst entree salad ($9), pork ribs ($23), pork lettuce wrap ($16), and two cocktails ($6/$8) totaled $77.87 after tax/before tip.

Nice detail: The rooftop patio (if it doesn’t descend into doucheyness) looks like it’s going to be a prime spot to hang—especially come fall.

The takeaway: With roughly 300 seats at full capacity, Rohst may end up being your best bet for actually getting a table in Lower Greenville on a weekend.