Chef Stephan Pyles has changed the way I view chicken.  You see, I have always been resistant to ordering an entrée of chicken from any high-end dining establishment. Call it poultry prejudice, but I have always sorta looked down on the lowly chicken when it competes with beef, lamb, pork, buffalo, lobster, or just about any number of more tantalizing menu options.  Don’t get me wrong, I love a nice piece of hot-n-juicy fried chicken from Bubba’s Cooks Country just as much as the next guy, but when I am sitting down at the table of a culinary mastermind, I am not particularly interested in what he or she is doing with chicken.

I don’t think I’m completely alone, am I? Mr. Anthony Bourdain once said, “Chicken is boring…chefs see it as a menu item for people who don’t know what they want to eat.”

So perhaps, when I got around to ordering chicken dishes at Stephan Pyles, I actually had no idea what I wanted to eat. Possibly. But in my ignorance, I found bliss, I found chicken which surpassed all my expectations and left me wondering why I had scorned my dear feathered friend for so long.

Mr. Pyle’s chicken offerings seems to change as the menu gets revamped periodically, but rest assured, you are in good hands whenever you go.  Currently, he is running a juicy roasted chicken that has been stuffed with garlic and sage, paired with tender brussel sprouts.  This is accompanied by dumplings of masa and ricotta, resting in a rich thigh confit and slightly sweet whipped camote.

Prior to this chicken rendition, Pyles served another knock-out dish (pictured above) of roasted chicken stuffed with ricotta accompanied by a mushroom-bacon ragout, topped with a slowly melting dollop of truffled honey crema, on a bed of liquid polenta.  Genius, folks.

Point is, chicken is not just for nuggets anymore.  In the hands of the right person, it is a bird that can really sing.  You may, however, keep the sweet-and-sour dipping sauce far away from me until further notice.

48-Hr Cracked Pepper Brisket Sandwich at Off-Site Kitchen

Few restaurants have received as much pre-opening buzz as Nick Badovinus‘ highly anticipated Off-Site Kitchen.  As a fan of his work at the Neighborhood Services ventures, I’m not ashamed to admit that I was as giddy as a school girl every time a shred of news regarding its opening surfaced. Naturally, when Off-Site Kitchen did open, 98% of the blogosphere rushed to see what kind of magic Badovinus and crew had been brewing up for all those months, and appropriately, nearly every food writer got right to work gushing about it all over the internet. And honestly, it deserved every bit of praise that has been thrown at it.

Now that some of the early chatter has started to simmer down a bit, it seems only appropriate to express my love for the humble, working-man’s menu at Off-Site Kitchen, particularly through praise of one of my favorite items on the menu board, the 48-hr cracked pepper brisket sandwich. It took a few visits to be able to mentally pry myself away from their excessively delicious burgers, but when I was finally able to take the plunge into non-burger territory, my efforts were so handsomely rewarded, I no longer fear to stray.

The brisket sandwich’s core is, of course, a bed of tender, fatty brisket, slow cooked for 48 hours, dripping seductively with rendered fat and meat juice, and flavored subtly with spicy cracked pepper. The chopped beef is stuffed inside a soft white roll, along with melted Swiss cheese and caramelized onions. Shredded lettuce, tomato and a cherry pepper mayo provide the finishing touches on this exquisitely constructed sandwich.  The cheese envelops the hot beef and onions, providing a creamy richness to the salty brisket. The tomato and cherry pepper mayo provide a surprisingly tangy sweetness that counters the cheese and beef perfectly. While eating one, it takes everything I have not to run away and hide in some remote cave, gently cradling this sandwich in my arms, rocking back and forth, calling it “my precious.” It’s magical.

Double Burger with Cheese and Bacon at Off-Site Kitchen

If you haven’t visited Off-Site Kitchen yet, what the %&$# are you waiting for? It’s humble, understated location and surrounding industrial sprawl only emphasize that Badovinus has truly created a diamond in the rough. It is also telling, and speaks to Nick’s character and concern for his restaurant’s success, that every time I have eaten at OSK, Nick, himself, is in the kitchen, slinging burgers and dropping fries (which, by the way, are my favorite fries in the city) into hot oil with the rest of the crew.  He knows how to cook for the working man, because the dude IS one. My hat’s off to you, sir, and all of your fine crew.

The best fries in Dallas? In my opinion, yes.

]]> http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/2012/04/11/eat-this-now-48-hr-cracked-pepper-brisket-sandwich-at-off-site-kitchen-in-dallas/feed/ 5 http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/2012/04/02/report-from-2012-savor-dallas-top-ten-dishes-served-at-international-grand-tasting/ http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/2012/04/02/report-from-2012-savor-dallas-top-ten-dishes-served-at-international-grand-tasting/#comments Mon, 02 Apr 2012 14:24:13 +0000 Daniel Walker http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/?p=38707

Mint chicken salad from The Mint. (Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

The popular International Grand Tasting at Savor Dallas 2012 took place on Saturday night at Irving Convention Center in Las Colinas. Organizers noted the move from Dallas to Irving was to make it easier for the residents of Fort Worth to attend.  Any worry that the change in venue would deter event patrons was quickly dispelled once the doors  swung open.  The place was packed, people shuffled around tightly, filling the venue as guests got the opportunity to hob-nob and rub elbows with some of the finest chefs in DFW.  The food and drink were, of course, spectacular as chefs were well prepared to excite and surprise their guests this year.

While nearly every dish our small group sampled was delightful, we thought we would pay homage to some of the most exciting and delicious dishes presented this year.  So here are (in no particular order) our picks of the Top 10 Best Bites of the 2012 Savor Dallas International Grand Tasting…

Gazpacho from Dee Lincoln' Bubble Bar. (Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

1. Kelly Hightower/Wild Salsa: Shrimp albondigas (spicy shrimp meatball) with ground pumpkin seed and onion, topped with cilantro and contija cheese.  Definitely the spiciest dish of the night, but perhaps, my personal favorite.

2. Juliard Ishizuka/ Dee Lincoln’s: Tomato gazpacho with goat cheese, watermelon, cured chorizo, and micro arugala.  Fine use of spice, temperature, and citrus, all together refreshing and unique.

3. Nick Amoriello/Meddlesome Moth: Shrimp and grits with pepperjack, jalapeno country gravy, and “tons of cream, tons of butter.” Hard to go wrong there.

The spicy star of The Meddlesome Moth's shrimp and grits.(Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

4. Cesar Gallegos/Bolla: Smoked scallop crudo with avocado mousse, candied pepitas, jicama hot sticks, and a shot of Patron tequila. Bold flavors, unique presentation. I hope we get to see a lot more “hot sticks” in the future.

Brisket Tacos from Neighborhood Services.(Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

5. Jeff Bekavac/ Neighborhood Services: Street tacos of smoky, sweet barbecue brisket with a blue cheese coleslaw.

The Whiskey Cake.(Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

6. TJ Lengnick/Whiskey Cake: The Whiskey Cake, no one will question Chef Lengnick’s decision to bring the restaurant’s signature dessert to the party, nor do I think anyone will question its inclusion on this list. This thing is blissful.

7. Nicky Phinyawatana/The Mint: Minced chicken salad with lime, cilantro, mint, red pepper, served on baby endive and bok choy.

8. Pat Robertson/Five Sixty: Kobe beef tataki with asparagus salad, jalapeno ponzu, cilantro and fried garlic.

9. Kay Agnew/Margaux’s Bridge Bistro: Duck and andouille sausage gumbo.

10. Eric Brandt/Bisto 31: Escargot and pork belly with parsley pesto, walnut, and creamy polenta.

Goat Cheese and Sweet Onion Jam from JJ&B.(Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

Recognition should also be given to the always brilliant Scardello Cheese with their lovely offerings of royal cheddar, landaff, and bleu debasque; JJ&B (Jellies, Jams and Butters) for their splendid sweet onion jam; and Kaurina’s original “kulfi” or Indian ice cream bars in mango, cardamom cream, and pistachio almond. Seriously, people were freaking out about this ice cream, myself included, which can be ordered here from artizone.com.

I’ve done a decent amount of travel around Dallas as part of my own personal taco crusade.  But unfortunately, my taco radar is pretty much dark across the taco dense region just east of Harry Hines and north of Northwest Highway.  A few establishments have crossed my path in this area, but one experience in particular which involved a tiny, no-name roadside taqueria, lack of electricity and refrigeration and a putrid, spoiled pork barbacoa taco, has left such a sour taste in my mouth that I rarely adventure there these days.

Luckily, I was redirected back to the area by the highly respected taco tycoon, Jose Ralat-Maldonado of Taco Trail fame.  When this dude tells you to make a trip somewhere, it’s best not to question his authority.  This particular outing brought me to a previously unheard of joint called La Nueva Fresh and Hot.  I am a sucker for fresh, I’m a sucker for hot, I’m even a sucker for neuva.  How could I go wrong? I couldn’t.

Read on amigos…

When one enters the indiscrete, strip-mall tortilla shop of La Nueva Fresh and Hot, there is an immediate barrage of smells and sounds.  The aroma of freshly ground corn permeates the air as the incessant whir and grind of a conveyor-belt tortilla press nearly makes conversation within the shop impossible.  A plume of hot air from the machinery and stovetops slaps you across the face a few times as you walk through the door.  This place is not striving for atmosphere, don’t expect anyone to tuck your chair in or gently place a black silk napkin across your lap, La Nueva just wants to stuff you full of delicious tacos and they don’t care how that gets done.

What convinced me to sample La Nueva in the first place was the promise of exceptional pork guisado tacos, a personal favorite of mine, composed of stewed meats in rich, hearty sauces. La Nueva’s may be the best I’ve sampled for years.

Guisado tacos come in two varieties at La Nueva, pork verde and pork rojo.  The verde version incorporates tender, succulent pork stewed in a blend of sweet tomatillos and peppers and with a surprisingly spicy finish. The rojo version is laced with strips of cactus to give an earthy, slightly tart flavor to the stewed pork meat. Each guisado comes nestled in soft corn or flour tortillas, that couldn’t get much fresher, or hotter for that matter. Both were exquisite, but for me, I think the verde really stole the show.

La Nueva Fresh and Hot is the epitome of a hidden gem, a place that certainly deserves more attention from loyal tacoists in this city.  It may be a bit off the beaten path, but you know how Robert Frost felt about taking the road less traveled. And that dude knew his tacos.

La Nueva Fresh and Hot

9625 Webb Chapel Rd.

Dallas, TX

While the Korean-Mexican fusion concept is far from novel at this point, this doesn’t mean it is not every bit as delicious as it was when people were going absolutely batty over the idea of a Korean taco.  Now that this multicultural mish-mashing seems to be slowing down a bit, perhaps it is safe for me to declare my personal favorite, an honor which I bestow upon Kor-BQ in Plano.

I first sampled Kor-BQ shortly after they opened in late 2010.  At the time, whisperings of the taco fusion movement from the West Coast, particularly L.A.’s Kogi food truck, were just barely reaching the ears of North Texans. It was an exciting time for everyone, and I’m sure I was not the only taco lover excited to sample the intriguing flavor profiles of “East meets West.”  Kor-BQ was the first of its kind to hit the Dallas area dining scene. Many others have followed, but I still find myself trekking up to Plano anytime I need to fulfill my cravings for a sweet and spicy Korean short rib taco.

Kor-BQ's Bulgogi Kuesadilla

Kor-BQ’s menu is filled with some of the usual offerings one would expect from a Korean taco joint.  Tacos are offered with a choice of four meats: galbi (marinated short ribs), bulgogi (marinated ribeye), dweji (spicy marinated pork) and dak (spicy marinated chicken).  Customers are then able to choose their style of condiments which include a cilantro and onion mix or a lettuce slaw and soy vinaigrette mixture with a sprinkle of sesame seed.

A personal favorite of mine is their wonderful “kuesadillas,” which take freshly grilled flour tortillas, your choice of meat (mine is usually the bulgogi ribeye), shredded cheese, with a side of their Korean salsa and sour cream.  When all the components combine, it is a hot and altogether blissful experience.  The combination of the sweet and spicy ribeye with the rich melted cheese is a unique profile of flavor and texture which helps keep Kor-BQ at the top of my list.

Beef and Glass Noodle Egg Rolls

Other crowd pleasers include their hearty rice bowls, beef and glass noodle filled Korean egg rolls, and loaded Korean fries with choice of meat, cheese, sour cream, salsa, and their house blended “special sauce.”  Every dish I have tried is fantastic.  Their meats are truly a cut above the rest, always fresh and dripping with flavor

Kor-BQ operates more like a stationary indoor food truck than a typical restaurant.  There is no seating in the restaurant and customers line up along a standing-height counter to devour their tacos and other goods served in small paper baskets. While this allows them to function in the tight confines of their strip mall location, it also avoids some of the weather issues which complicate the lives of food truck owners. It works for them, and I’d probably still eat here if they made me do it while laying on a bed of nails.

With its close proximity to Plano’s Willowbend Mall, Kor-BQ is the silver lining to my wife’s current obsession with H&M.  While skulking around the mall is generally never my idea of a good time, I have found that on a good day, I can slip out of the mall just long enough, while my wife is oogling over leather boots and knit-scarves, to grab some Korean tacos and get back before she even notices I am missing (assuming the I can avoid taco juice stains on my shirt from spoiling the getaway). No matter the risk, Kor-BQ is worth the adventure.

Kor-BQ

6505 W. Park Blvd. #314, Plano TX

Denver and Kristen Leonard of Rockstar Bakeshop

We caught up with the fine folks behind Rockstar Bakeshop this weekend as they celebrated the maiden voyage of their shiny new truck, which they’ve lovingly named “Layla.”  The weather may not have been ideal last Friday, but the whoopie-heads were out in full force to support Dallas’ first mobile whoopie shop.  Judging by the droves of smiling faces, all in attendance were satisfied with what Rockstar had to offer, which included their usual line-up of whoopies, but also some new creations such as the chocolate dipped pretzel sticks, bourbon glazed bread pudding (which sold out in, like, 10 mins) and a toasted marshmallow s’mores bar.  With the support of the wonderful ladies of Easy Slider truck, it’s no wonder that the Dallas food truck scene is blowing up like an atom bomb.

I caught up with Denver Leonard, who along with his wife, Kristen, are the brains and brawn behind this whoopie operation, and asked him some very important questions regarding their the business, future plans, and the legitimacy of their rock star status.

Jump for an insider’s dish into the world of whoopie…

"Layla"

SideDish: What plans do you have for the future of the business/truck?

Denver Leonard: We actually just got keys to our own place on Greenville Ave. so our future plans with Rockstar Bakeshop include eventually opening an actual brick & mortar bakery in addition to our super cool truck. We’d like to do a whoopie pie bar, where you can build your own whoopies…

SD: Will you be keeping the additional non-whoopie items around?

DL: Of course! We plan on adding more non-whoopie things too, like crazy rice krispy treats, cookies, and possibly creme brulee. We are only limited by our imaginations! The only thing we won’t make is cupcakes. There’s a strict “no cupcakes” policy on the truck!

SD: Any exciting whoopie ideas?

DL: We are playing with a Black & Tan beer whoopie recipe for St. Patty’s Day and we will definitely be making more flavors inspired by adult beverages. The truck will be parked at 4902 Greenville Ave for the St. Patricks Day Parade, so come check out the new flavors then!

S'mores Bar

SD: Jimmy Page or Jimi Hendrix?

DL: Kristin LOVES Jimi Hendrix, so we have to pick him over Jimmy Page. There’s a Hendrix mini statue on our desk at Rockstar Bakeshop headquarters and the first painting Kristin ever sold was a Hendrix-inspired one with the lyrics to Purple Haze.

SD: Do you ever trash hotel rooms after a heinous whoopie pie bender?

DL: We haven’t had the chance to trash any hotel rooms after a whoopie bender, but the greenroom at the House of Blues is known to have some whoopie pie carnage after a show with empty wrappers everywhere!

SD: Do you guys have whoopie pie groupies?

DL: We do! There’s a core group of whoopie addicts that have followed us around since the beginning. Just like any good band, we would be nothing without our fans!

SD: Do people ever ask you to autograph their whoopie pie?

DL: Not yet, but we would totally be down to autograph a whoopie. Someone should invent Sharpies with frosting in them…

SD: Was Paul McCartney just faking his death to eat whoopie pies backstage?

DL: Paul totally faked his death in 1966 to eat whoopies. Wouldn’t you? The Beatles didn’t break up because of Yoko Ono, they broke up because they fought over who got the last whoopie pie…

SD: Who has better whoopie pie eating lips, Steven Tyler or Mick Jagger?

DL: Definitely Mick Jagger. Plus Steven Tyler’s numerous glittery scarves get in the way of eating whoopies and that is no bueno.

Opening act provided by Easy Slider Truck

Miley Holmes and Caroline Perini of Easy Slider Truck

(photo by Regina Peterman)

I’m not at all ashamed to profess my love for donuts.  Some may label these decadent morsels of fried dough a “guilty pleasure,” but when I sink my eager teeth into the perfect donut, I feel no guilt at all, simply a euphoric rush of gustatory satisfaction which no other breakfast pastry can provide.  Last year, I presented my list of the Best Donuts in Dallas, but since that time, we’ve seen some notable changes on the Dallas donut frontier.  The beloved Hypnotic Donuts traded in their inconspicuous habitation of a pizza joint in North Dallas for a vibrant new shop in East Dallas.  Other donut shops, such as Pookie’s Donuts on Lemmon Ave, who donut bombed D Magazine a few weeks ago, and Denton Square Donuts who I visited previously, are also getting in on the donut love currently wafting through the air around Dallas.

Jump for a hole lot more…

Banana Pudding Donut (Photo by Regina Peterman)

And now the latest in the world of donut indulgence comes to us from Forney, TX, a tiny town just east of Mesquite.  Not a place I normally travel to, but for exceptional donuts, my stomach and gas tank know no bounds.  I was first turned onto The Hole Thing by the diligent blogger, the walking sweet-tooth, Jayme Campbell of Confection Confessions, one of the few people I know whose love for donuts rivals my own. And so it was that early last Saturday morning, I made the mini-road trip to Forney, to see if The Hole Thing could stack up to some of the donut joints in my regular rotation.

(Photo by Regina Peterman)

Navigating Forney, despite its small size can be incredibly annoying, especially with construction filled roads, a smartphone Google Map on the fritz, and naught but a lousy Facebook map pin to point me in the right direction.  But by the grace of the donut gods and my keen sense of donut-trained olfaction, I pulled into The Hole Thing by 7:30 AM, plenty of time to get my hands on the good stuff.

The Hole Thing starts where most donut shops do, offering the standard array of plain glazed, chocolate glazed, old fashioned sour cream, etc.  But they are assuredly amping things up a bit with their wide assortment of novelty and specialty items, and they are going well beyond the now nearly ubiquitous maple and bacon bar.  I skipped the plain and opted for the unusual to see what this place really had to offer.  Luckily, I was more than pleased in my selections.

(Photo by Regina Peterman)

Blueberry Fritter (Photo by Regina Peterman)

Among the most memorable items was from their line of ”pie-based” donuts including blueberry cream frosted with blueberry pie filling, banana cream pie topped with crunchy banana chips, apple pie with chopped apples, vanilla and cinnamon crumb, lemon cream pie, key lime, and coconut cream. Other showstoppers include the wonderful banana pudding filled donut with wafer cookie crumble and banana chips, the piña colada donut with pineapple, whipped cream and coconut and the pineapple upside-down cake donut with a sweet brown sugar glaze, and (gasp!) a red velvet donut with chocolate drizzle.  As a huge supporter of fritters, I was ecstatic to see their work with these giants among donuts, with blueberry, apple, banana honey glazed, and a banana chocolate chip with peanut butter and chocolate fudge drizzle.

Coconut Cream, Blueberry Cream, and Key Lime Donuts (Photo by Regina Peterman)

Trust me, the options do not stop there. Candy bars, cookies, and cereals find their way onto many of The Hole Thing’s offerings. In addition to donuts, they are running a line of barbecue pockets including chopped brisket filled rolls and smoked pulled pork filled rolls, as well as cinnamon rolls, whoopie pies, and muffins.

I asked co-owner, Katie Vrana, what kind of things they had in mind for the future and among other ideas are a “donut bread pudding with bourbon caramel sauce,” and with the approach of summer they plan on incorporating peaches and berries from a local orchard and berry farm. Drooling yet?

Red Velvet Cake Donut (Photo by Regina Peterman)

The Hole Thing is headed by a trio of women, sisters Katie Vrana and Stephanie Winther, and their niece, Jennifer Thrash. They eventually brought on Scott Martin as head baker, a 15-year bakery veteran from Rhode Island who brought his experience to the team to ensure that what they produce at The Hole Thing is more than the text-book, just-add-water donut mix offerings which plague many run-of-the-mill donut joints around town. For only being open since early December 2011, they are already building a loyal following.  No surprise though, as attention to quality, creativity, and a little risk-taking often pays off in this town. I look forward to great things from these people.

The Hole Thing

571 S. FM 548 Ste 128

Forney, TX

(972) 564-4653

Blueberry Cream Donut (Photo by Regina Peterman)

(Photo by Regina Peterman)

(photo by Jarrod Fresquez)

We could all use a little more whoopie in our lives.  This Friday, Dallas will see the launch of its first whoopie pie truck brought to us by the fine people at Rockstar Bakeshop.  Of course, Rockstar is not new to Dallas by any means, as they have been camping out behind a whoopie-strewn table now for months in conjunction with some other trucks around town. Rockstar, which specializes in rock-themed whoopie pies, have finally put the finishing touches on their new digs and will be cruising the streets starting this week. And to kick it all off, they are throwing a party this Friday, March 9 from 5-8 PM at Dowdy Studio (located just behind Good 2 Go Taco).  Rockstar has decided to christen their sweet new ride “Layla,” after the legendary Clapton tune. (Apparently “Cocaine” was not quite sending the right message.)

Might as well jump!

(photo by Jarrod Fresquez)

In addition to their usual whoopie offerings, they are introducing an expanded menu of chocolate and caramel dipped pretzels, cookies, s’mores bars, and sweet rum glazed banana bread.

Rockstar will be joining forces with their comrades at Easy Slider Truck, who we all love here at SideDish, as they crank out their menu of inventive sliders.  Seriously, if you haven’t had their “Sweet and Lowdown” with goat cheese, bacon and strawberry jam, add that to your to-do list for the week.  The event also includes live music and free beer. You’ll be partying like a rock star so hard, even Mick Jagger will be jealous. I’ll be there in my leather pants and ripped jean jacket to report on the whole event, I’ll be the dude stuffing his face with banana whoopie pies.

Dowdy Studio is located at 10025 Garland Road, Suite G. Dallas, TX.

(photo by Jarrod Fresquez)

Sesame Chicken

Ever since the Chinese New Year, I made a Chinese New Year’s resolution to find some exceptional Chinese food. Pretty creative idea, I know. If I’m being completely honest, I have never been too impressed with my experiences in the past, and many of this town’s apparent favorites were a bit of a let down for me.  After probing many friends, both Asian and non-Asian, about their stand-by establishments, I was pointed to Taiwan Café, an incredibly humble joint in a strip mall in Plano.  As the suburbs north of Dallas seemed to be the most celebrated areas for Asian cuisine, I thought this was probably a decent option, and when I found out it was cash only, this was only an affirmation of its legitimacy.

Another location of Taiwan Café exists in Richardson, and at one point they shared the same owner, but since that time, the Richardson location was sold and ownership changed, the name, however, stayed the same.  So, I can’t speak for this second location, but the grub at the Plano joint is better than any other I’ve had in Dallas.

Beef Lo Mein

Walking in, you are immediately confronted with a double isle of cafeteria-style traditional Taiwanese dishes from a long buffet-like set-up.  I probably could only identify half of the items in the line-up, and the sprawling 20-ft menu board written primarily in Mandarin was not much help.  But I steered away from the cafeteria trays in favor of ordering from the less-advertised, made-to-order items on a small folded paper menu on the counter.  I am fairly sure I made the right move.

Pork Potstickers

Every item I had was hot, fresh, crisp and delicious.  Nothing was overly greasy, yet a necessary greasiness was found in places I expected. The sesame chicken came out slightly sweet, with a crisp exterior, and not an ounce of sogginess.  The fried pork potstickers were brilliantly done, salty, porky, and a true stand-out when accompanied by their spicy chili-soy dipping sauce. The beef chow mein was a bit on the greasy side, but I expected this, and it only helped things slide down my grateful throat all the more easily. Don’t pass up the famed scallion pancake either, a delicious chewy, herbaceous concoction.

My search for exceptional Chinese food is far from over, but discovering Taiwan Café has helped fuel my passion for simple but elegant Asian cooking.  It was a packed house on a Saturday night, so this place is obviously not a secret to the local community. The entire experience was reminiscent of my recent trip to Chinatown in New York City, and that’s no laughing matter.

Taiwan Cafe
2747 W 15th St
Plano, TX

Scallion Pancake

]]> http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/2012/02/28/eat-this-now-taiwan-cafe-in-plano/feed/ 5 http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/2012/02/20/emporium-pies-popped-up-in-the-bishop-arts-district-last-weekend/ http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/2012/02/20/emporium-pies-popped-up-in-the-bishop-arts-district-last-weekend/#comments Mon, 20 Feb 2012 15:30:22 +0000 Daniel Walker http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/?p=36455

The Smooth Operator: French Silk chocolate with pretzel crust

This past weekend may have been rainy and overcast, but a beacon of sunshine poured down upon the Bishop Arts District, resting on a quaint little renovated house painted brightly with hues of violet and blue.  Within these walls rested Dallas’ first “pop-up” pie shop, brought to us by the wonderful women at Emporium Pies, partners and co-owners, Mary Gauntt and Megan Wilkes. Wanting to test the waters a bit and see what kind of response the Dallas diners would have to a dedicated pie shop, they moved into the space at 314 N. Bishop Ave. over the weekend to provide this city with some of the finest pies it will ever see.

Walking inside, the space is small but cozy, with no more than a few chairs, a sales counter, a couple tiny tables with three stands displaying the day’s pie options.  On one rests a French silk chocolate pie with a crunchy pretzel crust, another holds a bourbon pecan pie with shortbread crust, the last displaying a streusel topped banana pie.  I ordered a slice of each, which were then all neatly packaged in small wicker baskets with a wooden fork and tied up with string (these are a few of my favorite things).  The entire presentation is so insanely cute, it makes fluffy baby bunnies look like swamp trolls.  I took a seat on the porch and dug in.

Jump for a whole lotta pie porn…

Most importantly, the pies are incredibly delicious.  I don’t profess to be a pie connoisseur by any means, but I have sat through a few holidays in my time and I’ve been known to demolish a good number of pies.  Pecan pie is a particular favorite of mine, and Emporium’s  version, “The Drunken Nut,” is (and I am not exaggerating) the best I’ve ever eaten.  Mary states that she “wanted to create a pie that was not too sweet, or too runny…or made you feel like you just ingested half a cup of corn syrup.”  (In fact, their version is not made with corn syrup at all.) But it is brilliantly done, sweet with tones of brown sugar and butter, chewy and nutty, the shortbread crust could be savored alone without need of any additional filling.

The French silk pie, “The Smooth Operator,” was inspired by the flavors of a chocolate covered pretzel. It’s smooth and creamy without feeling enormously heavy and rich, nor is it overpoweringly chocolately.  Its sweetness is perfectly complimented by the slightly salty crumble of the pretzel crust.  Again, a work of art.  Lastly, the “Bro’Nana” is made with a cinnamon banana filling topped with a walnut-oat streusel all resting in beautiful shortbread crust. As a long time fan of the banana, it was love at first bite.

The Drunken Nut: Bourbon Pecan/Shortbread Crust

The Bro'Nana: Cinnamon Banana/Walnut-Oat Streusel/Shortbread Crust

Mary states she has dreamt of owning her own bakery ever since she finished high school, and now with the help of her business partner, Megan, it looks like this dream is beginning to take shape.  Hallelujah!  Dallas needs more artisanal bake shops like this from people determined to offer the highest quality product possible. Their aim is take traditional recipes and add their own twist, with a focus on flavor rather than just sugar.  Every ounce of their pies is handmade – the crusts rolled by hand, the fruits all peeled by hand – and they are produced without preservatives, hydrogenated oils, and corn syrups.

As for future plans, they state that things have “slowly been taking form.” They’ve been doing a lot of business out of a commissary kitchen and are working towards a permanent store front.  While Bishop Arts is definitely a possibility, nothing is finalized yet. They plan to keep their menu dynamic and seasonal, with savory pies also a potential for the future. Frankly, I can’t wait to see these girls succeed.  While the age-old adage “easy as pie” may still be applicable to some instances in life, “easy as an Emporium pie” is certainly not going to be a catchphrase floating around Twitter any time soon.  Pies of this caliber require time, a dedication to the art of baking, and a passion for their product that still remains a rare thing in this city. So jump on your Twitter (@EmporiumPies) and keep an eye out for developments from these wonderful “purveyors of fine pie.”

Megan Wilkes (left) and Mary Gauntt (right) serving some very happy customers

A slice of the Bro'Nana

A slice of the Smooth Operator

Last year, we reported on the invasion of the New York City cheese shop, Murray’s Cheese, to the great state of Texas.  Perhaps some brushed it aside, after all, Murray’s decided to set up shop in the inconspicuous deli sections of Krogers across Dallas.  Indeed, many people have likely passed by their cheese stands many times while shopping, assuming they were no more important than the stale donuts and Boar’s Head deli meat in their near vicinity.  However, take it from me, this is one kiosk you do not want to miss.  Quality cheeses flood the few tables and displays they maintain, alongside cured meats, crackers, dips, olives, jams, antipasto, dried fruit and nuts.

I am a complete sucker for the little old ladies dishing out their free samples, but never before has a woman in a hair net rocked my world as much as the day I was first taunted to try Murray’s Smoked Gouda Dip.  It has found a permanent place in our grocery basket for the last few months, indeed there has probably not been a trip to the store in which it didn’t return home with us.

An assortment of goods from Murray's

It’s a simple concoction and may not be the most beautiful thing you’ve ever eaten, but it packs a punch of smoky, salty flavor.  The aged gouda is smoked and shred, mixed with mayo and chopped red onion.  It’s not going to take the place of your favorite breath mint anytime soon, but I’m sure you’ll be more than content to grab a carton of dip, a package of thin, crispy crackers and spend the entire night on you couch with no one else besides your TV and a cold Diet Coke.  Plus, I doubt you’ll want to share anyways.

Imagine for one second that you happened to forget that it was Valentine’s Day next week.  Maybe you were busy at work, maybe you were simply swamped with World of Warcraft, who cares.  You forgot and now your wife  is giving you the what for. I know how you feel, I’ve been there before.  There’s a reason the arms of my micro-fiber couch have sleepy-drool stains on them.

Fear not compadres, there is a foolproof way to get yourself out of the dog house and back on that lovely pedestal.

Step 1: Flowers (they are all suckers for dead plants).

Step 2: Learn the value of a good-ole, tear jerkin’ apology.

Step 3: Surprise her with a night out at Stephan Pyles.

You wife will be putty in your hands.

Mr. Pyles is, obviously, not the new kid on the block. The dude is a pioneer of southwestern cooking, like the Daniel Boone of Dallas dining.  I have had some of the most fantastic dishes of my life at the tables of this culinary mastermind. Yet despite the periodic shifting in the menu, there is one dish which remains a constant at our dinner table, the delectable Tamale Tart.

This dish screams flavor like a banshee with a bullhorn.  It’s uniqueness and sophistication defines what the name of Pyles has come to represent, and it should be on the must-try list of any Dallas diner.

The tart starts with a roasted garlic custard, made from heavy cream, pureed roasted garlic, and eggs.  The custard fills a tamale tart composed of masa flour, cornmeal, cumin, bell pepper and ancho chili.  The entire things if finished with a crown of fresh lump crabmeat, and a smoked tomato sauce.

There you go, you are no longer pond scum, you are now the most sensitive, caring man in the world.  But don’t thank me for saving your marriage, thank the big man in the kitchen, Cap’n P.

Poutine from the Greenhouse Tavern, Cleveland OH (photo from Columbus Underground @ www.columbusunderground.com)

A couple of weeks ago I gushed about my love for the burgers at Kenny’s Burger Joint.  One of our Sidedishers, “Kirk,” commented that they offered “the closest facsimile of poutine in the DFW area.”  When I heard this, it was not long until I found my way back to sample the Kenny’s version.  As you likely know, “poutine” is a classic Canadian dish, traditionally composed of crispy French fries, cheese curds, and a brown gravy.  The most successful variations of poutine are able to serve the fries thick and crisp, the cheese curd soft but not so completely melted that they lose all their texture, and the gravy incorporated into each bite, but not so much as to turn the whole thing into a soup or make the fries overly soggy.  However, this dish is incredibly hard to find in Dallas.  I don’t understand why this is so.  Perhaps it’s our distance from our neighbors to the North? Perhaps there are not enough Canadians here in the Lone Star State?  It really is a travesty.

Kenny's version of "poutine"

Kenny’s version was tasty but had some flaws compared to the more traditional Canadian versions. It was very heavy on the gravy, which left the otherwise exceptional fries a bit too soggy.  The melted Jarlsberg cheese was rather scant and lacked the textural chew that comes from a good cheese curd.  One of the more memorable American variations can be found at the Greenhouse Tavern in Cleveland, OH which serves duck fat fries, mozzarella curd and veal gravy.  However, there seems to be nothing like this in the Dallas area.

What gives, Dallas restauranteurs?  This is a dish I think Dallas would truly embrace.  Even a poutine food truck could work.  Anyone know where this delectable dish may be found in Big D?

A few years ago, when the whole “elevated comfort food” movement really started to take shape, it seemed like every restaurant in the city was creating their own version of the fancy-fied mac-and-cheese.  I must have tried them all. Various iterations typically called for elegant or exotic cheeses or expensive luxury proteins, each dish doing its best to push as far as possible from the childhood version, that slop in a blue box.  Many dishes were highly successful, indeed, many restaurants began to claim this as their signature dish.  Now that the novelty of a $15 mac-and-cheese has begun to wear off, there are really only a small handful that, to me, have weathered the trend and continue to be a completely crave-able dish, and Victor Tango’s version, the Crab, Mac and Jack Gratin, still sits on top of my list.

Victor Tango’s menu has made some rearrangements over the years.  They have seemingly always been well-known for their version of chicken and waffles.  But another dish that has not budged since their humble beginnings is their exquisite Crab, Mac, and Jack Gratin.  This dish is a triumph in carbs and fats.  The nutrition label on this thing would likely give most of us a little angina, but nothing good in life comes without a little pain.  Plus, Paula Deen’s got some pills you can take to make you feel aaaaaall better (insert Southern drawl).

Tango’s version of mac-and-cheese incorporates juicy lumps of succulent crab, zesty jack cheese, and perfectly al dente macaroni.  The richness of the cheese with the buttery crab are the ideal combination for and pasta dish, however, it doesn’t stop there…chopped pancetta joins the party for a dish that is simply unstoppable. The entire concoction is completely indulgent, but has been an irresistible pleasure of mine for years.  Plus, it pairs perfectly with chicken and waffles, and you know those are on everyone’s table.