Every visit to Marfa, Texas leaves me astounded by its nature of entrancing virtues. The exquisite inhabitants and outlandish indulgences leave me reeling and feeling refreshed. My being, at its brightest and most fortuitous state, echoes and dips into the milky waves of nourishing splendor whenever I go to this reverent town, tucked amongst the sprawling desert landscape. My faculties, at their apex, grant me solace and fame, though only within my own experience of aesthetic and cathartic revival. In doing so, I see that I am but one minuscule grain of this grand city, and all the brighter for being so. Marfa transcends expectation and leaves all those fortunate enough to spend time within its boundaries with a warmth of soul and a fulfillment of experiential delights like no other place in Texas. So, with what earthly exultation I have left to expound, I share with you the extended culinary endeavors of Marfa that I have been so fortunate to enjoy.
I’ll leave the verbose diction behind me now as I relay part 2 of Marfa’s food offerings. As you may recall, I visited Marfa back in November and spent a very strenuous two days photographing and eating at every fantastic venue I could fit into my swollen belly. To tell you the truth, it was not difficult and I will not apologize for my indulgence. For this trip we were delighted to find several new food offerings from good ole Marfa, and a list was created that so delighted our proverbial palates we nearly brought the plane down with dizziness.6 Comments »
As seen in the June 2013 issue.
CRUST | The sausage-wrapped egg is dredged in flour, a buttermilk-egg wash, and panko bread crumbs. Then it is deep-fried until golden-brown.
EGGS | The eggs come from three different local farms: Dis & Dat, Peace and Love, and Eden Creek. The eggs are hard-boiled and then wrapped in burger sausage.
BANGER SAUSAGE | This traditional English sausage is made in-house for Central 214‘s breakfast and brunch items. The sausage is composed of Berkshire pork belly and shoulder, bread crumbs, and various spices and herbs, including coriander, nutmeg, cayenne, sweet smoked paprika, sage, thyme, and parsley. Dijon mustard is added as well to make the sausage go “bang,” Dodd says.
SALAD | The Scotch egg is served atop a frisee salad tossed in champagne vinaigrette. The dish is finished with a sprinkle of fleur de sel.
LOBSTER | A 1.25-pound fresh lobster is steamed and the meat is removed. It is then warmed in a pan with hot clarified butter, lemon zest, shallot, garlic, and fresh thyme.
GARNISH | The sandwich is garnished with lemon zest, thyme, and julienned spring onions.
BREAD | A La Spiga Bakery custom 8-inch challah bun is lightly toasted.
POTATOES | Potatoes are roasted with Old Bay seasoning and parsley.
As seen in this month’s May issue.
Maybe you’ve noticed, but Desiree Espada, my wing/camera woman has left us for the bright lights of New York City. For the first two months of her absence, I sort of panicked and cried myself to sleep every night. (I miss Desiree.) Then came the day I found Kelsey Foster, who does amazing, amazing work, and sparks flew. It was stars and hearts and the whole nine yards. We sent her to Belly & Trumpet in Uptown to capture its stunning beauty.
By now, you should know what The Big Read Dallas is. If you don’t, go here and leave a comment so you can get a free book. The basic gist is this: we’re spending the entire month of April together, as a city, to read Fahrenheit 451 and encourage people to read. What’s D Magazine’s involvement with it? Well, we’re one of the sponsors. We donated a lot of time (5,000 hours of staff time) and money ( a whopping $160,000) to this campaign. And all we’re really hoping is that this project will get one student hooked on reading.
For the rest of this month, we’re hosting a bunch of cool programs and dinners related to Fahrenheit 451. Join D Magazine, the Friends of the Dallas Public Library, and the National Endowment for the Arts at Wild Salsa on April 23 from 6 to 8 p.m. for “A Fiery Fiesta.”
For $60 a person, you get four delicious courses, cocktails, and a chance to mingle with the ladies of D: The Broadcast and D Living. To buy tickets, go here.
Jump for the detailed menu. Continue reading "The Big Read Dallas: A Fiery Fiesta at Wild Salsa"
As seen in our April 2013 issue.
If Tyler Durden opened a coffee shop after he married Janis Joplin and made babies atop Mount Badass, Mudsmith on Greenville Ave. would be that coffee shop.
The first time I ventured in here, I immediately turned around realizing that I wasn’t cool enough yet to patronize this cozy, wide open coffee shop. Its long and fertile interior beckoned to me like the lilies of eastern Fiji that crawl and tenderly awaken your pores before bringing you to your knees before the sun. I returned and quickly realized that I needn’t fret over my style or coolness, for the people at Mudsmith welcome you with warmth and generosity. They are quiet and gentle, and they work to please you without spoiling the privacy that so many come to coffee shops for.
As seen in our January issue.
Bread | Raisin bread from Esmeralda’s Bakery is toasted on a griddle
Brie | The cheese is placed on top of the ham and then melted under a broiler
Ham | Virginia ham is sliced thin and heated on a griddle
Tomato onion chutney | Onion is sauteed in safflower oil. Diced and peeled tomatoes, garlic, rice vinegar, brown sugar, coriander, and currants are added and then cooked 15 to 20 minutes. An ounce of rice vinegar is added, and the mixture is cooled and jarred, where it will keep for up to three weeks. Chutney is spread on bread, and the ham and cheese are added to the sandwich.
Darn you, TacoTrail, for introducing me to these terribly addicting potato tacos. They’re all I can think about. My 2013 wish is for the Taco Party food truck to make it into the Arts District rotation. Please make this happen, Arts District people. Really, it’s for the good of downtown.
Potato tacos are commonly found in some Mexican households when, at the end of the month, they don’t have enough money to buy meat. Families make potato tacos instead. They’re simple and easy to make, but the Taco Party truck does it splendidly. These potato tacos are made from thin corn tortillas filled with potato puree, and topped with Mexican cole slaw, sour cream, and mild salsa verde on top. Each order comes with two potato tacos that are pretty filling from the starchiness, but one order isn’t even close to enough. Order two. You’ll be a better person for it.
Read what TacoTrail has to say about the Taco Party truck here.1 Comment »
Steak: Cut from the heart of a rib-eye loin, the eye of rib is seasoned with salt and grilled over mesquite. The beef comes from Masami Cattle Ranch in California.
Sauce: Sugar is cooked dry until it dissolves and then deglazed with soy, orange juice, orange zest, and mirin.
Shallots: Shallots are sliced: dredged in a mixture of flour, paprika, cayenne, cumin, and salt; and then fried in canola oil.
Garnish: An edible garnish of red ribbon sorrel is used.1 Comment »
Last week, at a come-and-go tasting lunch hosted by the recently launched Gina’s Organic Kitchen, I fell head-over-heels in love with this raspberry chia mousse. One bite and I was a goner. Gina Villalobos, the Organic Health Queen, whipped together this dessert made from chia seeds, coconut milk, raspberries, and dark agave nectar. It’s dairy-free, amazingly light and airy, and satisfies that sweet tooth without being too sugary. I told Gina that I could eat her raspberry chia mousse every day, and I mean it. I would do anything to get my hands on one right now…
Gina sells each raspberry chia mousse for $6.95. You can either visit Gina’s commissary kitchen for eat-in or pick-up, or order for delivery from the food truck. If you want some of this ch-ch-ch-chia mousse, pick up your phone and dial 214-702-5685.2 Comments »
These days, all I want are biscuits. Biscuits topped, loaded, and bursting with gravy. A recent soul-searching trip to Jack’s Southern Comfort Food, which opened quietly along Greenville Avenue on October 1, with our photography intern, Melisa Oporto, fixed this problem in a jiffy. Halle-biscuit-lujah.
After I finished putting together my mother’s almond milk bubble bath, I left her a note to tell her I’d be skipping out on her chili lasagna with bologna sugar cube wraps. She’s a bit of an artisan when it comes to dining combinations, but tonight was going to be my night. I had to break free from form and let loose the hair that I couldn’t grow because of a microwave accident I suffered in my late teens. My friend Jason has a second cousin who knows a guy that works at the post office, and he said that he overheard a couple of his customers raving about this new mecca of hipster grunge called Serious Pizza. It sounds like just the place for me to launch my shamisen one man band and show the world my brand of cool, while also absorbing a little of theirs.
Jump and get more serious.
In case you didn’t get the very important memo, Boulevardier, the French bistro in Bishop Arts District, has now entered the brunch market. (Thank you, Mighty French Culinary Gods.) On Sunday, when I attended brunch as the Boulevardier’s guest, I tasted a few of its offerings available every Sunday.
Chef and owner Nathan Tate has created a pretty exciting early Sunday menu, and I’m not just saying that. I’m a huge fan of brunch, but the same old waffles and biscuits and gravy thing can be tiring very, very quickly. Tate’s selections, like the beef tongue hash, are nothing like the usual brunch selections. Nor do they barely fill you up. Large plates (such as the crisp duck leg confit with sunny side up duck eggs and ground grits cake) will have you stumbling out of Boulevardier, stuffed as ever, once you start digging in.
Go for the tuna, stay for the tuna.
I spent the better part of half of last month examining the migration habits of the Adama bird, and have thusly determined that there will be no more crustless jiffy and jellies for this gentleman. The most affably anointed of you will offer more than a soupçon of foggy skepticism any time I discuss food criticism, and yet I battle on.
Naked and thirsty in a hunky alley in Deep Ellum, a sudden tickle came between my toes. I lifted my head from my foggy narcissism and noticed a lively blue brick wall calling to me from yonder.
Though I may be the last to the party, St. Pete’s Dancing Marlin let me into its awe-encompassing arms with a gentle and unencumbered full body squeeze. The beautifully rambunctious interior solidified my joy with a hefty greeting from the man at the bar, who most certainly owned a boat. “Sit where you like…that’s what Rex would tell you,” he said. Rex worked his hands behind the bar, unable to attend my seating needs at the moment, yet still giving a friendly hello and welcome. Musty animal magnetism aside, Rex was gentle and friendly, astute and ever available.
As seen in our October issue.
Bun: Local bakery La Francaise bakes the bun.
Wiener: The all-angus beef hot dog is from Patuxent Farms.
Toppings: The wiener is wrapped with a slice of Black Forest ham and seared on a flat-top grill, which brings out the meat’s natural smokiness. The hot dog is then topped with Swiss cheese, béchamel, and a fried egg.
If my arteries could talk, they’d be screaming in half-pain/half-joy because tomorrow, my friends, is the FIRST DAY of the State Fair. When those beautiful Fair Park gates open in 19 hours, 20 minutes, and 45 seconds, we’ll finally be able to enter Fried Food Heaven and rest in buttered peace. But enough of this chitter chatter. We’re wasting time and breath whenever we’re not talking about fried food.
Deep fried jambalaya by Abel Gonzalez*
This winner of “Best Taste” at the 2012 Big Tex Choice Awards is a Cajun mix of rice, shrimp, sausage and seasonings that’s spicy even if you don’t dip the ball into the spicy ranch sauce.
Jump if you know what’s good for ya.16 Comments »
It’s the most wonderful time of the year: pumpkin-eating season. To kick-start your journey to pumpkin nirvana, I suggest you head to Afghan Grill or Nora Restaurant, both owned and cheffed by Matt Pikar, and order his version of Kadu. Pikar boils and then sautés thick pucks of pumpkin and covers them with slightly sweet and spicy yogurt meat sauce laced with onions, tomatoes, garlic, cloves, turmeric, cardamom, and mint.
I’ve removed my sad cell phone photograph from the top, but if you would like to get a glimpse of the dish, it is below.
One of my greatest achievements on Monday? Tuesday? was convincing the rest of the web team to eat at East Hampton Sandwich Co. during our weekly meeting time. To be fair, it didn’t take much convincing. Hunter Pond’s sandwich biz is, after all, a popular hangout spot in Snider Plaza these days. I propose that we all start doing the slow clap for Pond; he’s only 25 and people are lining outside the door of his first restaurant. East Hampton Sandwich Co. was packed around lunchtime yesterday. And now I can see why.
This photo that I just saw on Dude, Sweet Chocolate’s Facebook page is killing me. If it weren’t for work, I’d be out the door and running to Dude, Sweet’s store right now just to grab one of these chocolate Cajeta skulls. According to the guy who answered the phone, Katherine Clapner received a special order for these little skulls and made them out of 72% dark chocolate and goat’s milk caramel. There are only 30 of these pretty skulls left at the store, so I would fly there, if I were you. Then proceed to cackle with glee.