Dallas, meet your favorite new way to search for restaurants. We spent the better part of a year updating editorial content and reviews, simplifying searches, and adding story links to over 1,200 restaurant listings. It’s your tool to find just those experiences we recommend—a curated and constantly updated list of the best stuff to eat.
Some more features after the jump… Continue reading "D Magazine Launches New Restaurant Directory"1 Comment »
This summer, I have been uncovering underground nests of molecular gastronomy buried between the ubiquitious steak houses in Dallas. Earlier this week, I heard from a local gorge profonde that MG had infiltrated the kitchens at Bijoux. I had to investigate.
Bijoux owner/execuchef Scott Gottlich sees MG techniques as an additional string to his bow. Scott, and sous chef Mark Young, prepared one savory and one dessert dish to illustrate the techniques they use at the restaurant. The savory dish, disingenuously named Tomato Mozzarella Salad, used local and seasonal produce to produce a tasty dish for hot summer days.
This amazing dessert dish is actually on the Bijoux menu at the present time.
After months of anticipation, months more of discovery, and a year of of experimentation, Fuego, the small restaurant within a restaurant, has opened inside Stephan Pyles, the restaurant.
For now, Fuego is the most exclusive eating event in town–the menu features a few preparation techniques used by molecular gastronomists combined with cooking and baking in a wood fire oven.
The synthesis of high culinary art combined with the latest culinary science, freshest organic local ingredients, and some iconic foods of the world is now available for you to taste.
Fuego at Stephan Pyles is only open on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. The small area at the bar seats only four people at two seatings (6:30pm and 9pm). There is no menu (until the end). Chef/owner Stephan Pyles, execuchef, Matt McCallister, and sous chef Danyele McPherson are making some magic. (If you go, ask McPherson what was her grade was waterboarding when she attended CIA.) These three prepare “seven to ten courses” (that is according to the publicity - according to my math the night I ate, there were 14) right in front of the guests.
They describe each one and talk about it with you as you eat. It is an intimate and totally involving experience in which the food stars. If you desire, you can defer judgment over the drinks as well, and have a matched wine (which is sometimes a non-wine beverage) with each course. In that case, a wine waiter effortlessly moves drinks in and out in time with the delivery of the food. At several points, Pyles himself comes by, casting a judgmental eye on the food and talking excitedly about the grander scheme of this experiment.
Enough of the generalities, let’s look at the menu in a little more detail. Continue reading "Fire and Ice: Fuego Opens at Stephan Pyles in Dallas"17 Comments »
Pop-Tart World is a café in Times Square dedicated solely to exotic versions of the once (and still, IMO) lowly Pop-Tart. The “promoters” (love the emerging term to replace restaurateurs) of Pop-Tart World offer build-your own PTs, Fluffer Butter (marshmallow spread sandwiched between two Pop-Tarts frosted fudge pastries), Sticky Cinna Munchies (cinnamon rolls topped with cream-cheese icing and chunks of cinnamon-roll Pop-Tarts), and (beat, beat) Pop-Tarts sushi (three varieties of Pop-Tarts minced and wrapped in a fruit roll-up). Customers are treated to a “light show every hour” and the first suckers in the door “get frosted.” What. Ever. Yuck-a-doo.
Now, one hand, we have locavore guru Michael Pollan explaining why “paying $8 for a dozen eggs is a good thing” and on the other hand (thigh), we have Pop-Tart World. (And don’t get me started on the food spin offs coming to a store near you as soon as the movie Eat, Pray, Love, Make Money is released.) Oh, it all makes me want to take my head off and send it to the cleaners.3 Comments »
In response to some of my earlier posts about molecular gastronomy, some commentators noted Anthony Bombaci at Nana Restaurant at the Hilton Anatole Hotel is also using MG techniques in some of his cooking. I had to investigate.
I checked the Nana website. No mention of molecular gastronomy. I walked into the north lobby of the hotel and looked at the menu. No mention of molecular gastronomy. Finally, I got hold of the man himself, who confirmed that there was lots of molecular gastronomy going on at Nana. In fact, he has been doing it there since he arrived in 2006. Some of the techniques he transferred from his previous gig at The Ritz Carlton in Barcelona (where he was Executive Chef at Enoteca Bombaci and Executive Chef at The Newport Room). Other dishes he added while in Dallas. This may make him the longest-serving professional practitioner of the school in the Dallas area.
Like most MG chefs, he hates the term molecular gastronomy. However, until someone comes up with something more palatable the world is stuck with chemist Hervé This’ unlovely sobriquet. More important, is where MG fits into his cooking philosophy. To Bombaci, MG is just another set of techniques. As such, it is judged by the same criteria as more conventional techniques. He uses each when it produces the best tastes and textures in the dish and for some things there are tastes and textures that can be made with MG that cannot be made as well or at all using other methods.
If you have been to Nana over the last four years you have tasted the results. In these three videos he takes a lot of the mystery out of MG by demonstrating three dishes, all of which are used at the restaurant. JUMP FOR FREE MOVIES! Continue reading "Molecular Gastronomy at Nana in Dallas"4 Comments »
On August 5, Stephan Pyles will debut Fuego, a 4-seat “restaurant” in front of the wood-burning oven inside his restaurant Stephan Pyles. Fuego will feature a 7-10 course tasting menu that will include many items created with molecular gastronomy techniques along with other dishes (foie gras!) finished off or seared in the oven. Fuego will offer two seatings (6:30 and 9:00) on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights. Cost is $125.00 for food. Wine pairing is an additional $75.00. It’s no surprise that Fuego is almost totally booked for August.
Yesterday, Andrew Chalk and I visited with Pyles and his execuchef Matt McCallister and checked out their new kitchen laboratory. They took us through a series of demonstrations on “cooking” with emulsion blenders, liquid nitrogen, and reverse spherification. Hungry? I suggest you throw some popcorn into the sous vide thermal circulator and get ready to watch the future of cooking in Dallas. Well, part of Dallas. Below you will find some fascinating videos.
There is a revolution sweeping the world of cuisine. It is called molecular gastronomy and consists of a bit of science, a bit of technique, and a bit of ingredient selection. Many of its practitioners don’t label themselves with the term but nonetheless hew to the principles. Globally, the restaurant voted the best in the world by the professional tome Restaurant Magazine three years running, El Bulli, is run by the high priest of this school of cuisine, Ferran Adria, and he is considered the ne plus ultra of three-star Michelin chefs.
(Liquid nitrogen mojitos below. OMG.) Continue reading "Stephan Pyles Talks About Molecular Gastronomy at Fuego in Dallas"31 Comments »
We’ve been keeping our interns busy chasing stories around town. Elizabeth Johnstone, who has her bachelor’s degree at New York University, checked out Coca-Cola’s new fountain concept at a Wingstop in Garland. Check out her report after the jump, and then ask her about the time she chased down a purse snatcher.3 Comments »
No they aren’t serving iPhones as appetizers, Fearing’s is offering an application for your iPhone.
Here’s the poop:
Featuring full text and imagery of the restaurant, the new application is compatible with the iPhone, iPod touch, and iPad. It also can be forwarded as a link to user contacts via e-mail, Facebook and Twitter. Exclusive content includes: Fearing’s breakfast, lunch and dinner menus,Interactive menu faves, reservations, location and contact details, special offers, event updates, and local area information
To take Fearing’s along via iPhone, please visit this spot.
Now, let me ask you a question. Would you download an app for a restaurant? If so, why? If not, why? I guess I just don’t get the whole app deal. But I’m a geezer. Go.9 Comments »
My good friend Evan and I like to go to In-N-Out Burger. On a slow news day Evan half-heartedly encourages me to “throw up a post” on In-N-Out to get SideDish moving. It’s a hot topic and it keeps Twinwillow busy.
Rumors about In-N-Out Burger coming to Dallas have been swirling for years. I am sick of calling headquarters and getting the usual corporate retort: “At the moment we have no plans, blah, blah, blah, but that doesn’t mean that blah, blah, blah in the future.”
So last week when I shared a meal with a commercial real estate dude who promised me he was “on the inside” of the deal, I kept quiet. He gave me specific sites and growth plans and business strategies. I thought, wow I’m finally going to get confirmation and this is really going to happen.
Then I started to think. If In-N-Out Burger came to Dallas, where would I eat when I go to Las Vegas? Or Phoenix? Or Napa Valley?
Any of you remember the craziness that surrounded Krispy Kreme Donuts when they opened in Dallas? It was like an intense rescue scene from Season 7 of 24: A helicopter hovers over an urban Krispy Kreme store where thousands of innocent customers wait for hot donuts. Inside, a Russian terrorist inserts tiny nuclear rods into the cinnamon twists rolling off the line. Jack Bauer dangles on a rope from a helicopter. Spoiler alert: He kills ten terrorists and hands a small Middle Eastern child a bag of warm glazed donuts. Fade out.
Sorry, I got a little off track there but the point is that even Jack Bauer couldn’t save Krispy Kreme. Last year they closed nearly half of their Dallas-area stores.
I love the thrill of hitting an In-N-Out when I’m out of town. It’s a guilty pleasure. Perhaps putting an In-N-Out Burger location by Bachman Lake would ruin the allure, mystique, and fascination of procuring an animal-style double double. Should we be careful what we ask for?64 Comments »
Like I said, Newton Vineyards was in the office along with glass maker, John Pomp who has designed a gorgeous decanter for their wine. Here’s the story.
From the ever-curious mind of SideDish reporter, Andrew Chalk:
6 Comments »
Recent reports and videos on the making of soba noodles omitted the most curious fixture at Tei-An. No, not the rooftop patio (at least, as yet), the doors to the bathroom stalls. You step into a cubicle that appears to have a glass panel in the door. So much for privacy! However, when you close the door, the glass panel turns opaque–at least, from the inside. I assumed (hoped) the effect was two way, and (thankfully) no crowd gathered outside. This is a talk-inspiring design feature for a restaurant
I first heard of this type of glass being used in the changing rooms at high-end clothing stores. Apparently, it is made with a Piezoelectric crystal formed on the sheet. I wonder what happens when the electricity fails?
I was having a conversation with a “highly educated” person the other night and he said, “Dallas really needs a great burger place.” I was stunned. When I asked him what places he liked, he reeled off spots—Chips, Goff’s, Neighborhood Services—that were in his neighborhood. I asked him if he ever went out of his way to discover or try new places and he admitted that he didn’t really. He has now been downgraded to “somewhat intelligent.” I mean talk about closed minded. (They don’t even melt the cheese at Goff’s.)
The inside-the-loop-outside-the-loop foodie argument drives me nuts. There is great food all over this area if you are willing to drive. But if you had one restaurant wish, what would you like to see in Dallas? I know what I want, it’s a fleet of these, STAT. Your turn.52 Comments »
In the video above, Gabe Parker, owner of Homestead Winery, discusses the winery’s La Bodega de Mitchell sherry with Andrew Chalk. Below, is Chalk’s report on the sherry production at Homestead Winery.
Every now and again, you discover a really memorable wine. It usually happens when you least expect it. Such was the case on Labor Day when I decided to spend the day traveling the Munson Wine Trail and started at Homestead Winery in Ivanhoe. The visit started typically enough. We were taken through the range of Homestead wines from dry whites to, reds, to sweet wines. The surprise came right at the end when owner Gabe Parker said, “Have you tried our sherry?” That caught my attention. Outside its traditional home in Spain, a wine labeled ‘sherry’ is usually a bad wine cut with cheap brandy to mask its ‘unsaleability’ (Ed. note: new word, Kirk.).
Gabe was insistent and thrust a glass of a pale brown liquid into my hand. It was the right color for an Oloroso sherry certainly, but that is the easiest characteristic of a wine to replicate (just play around with the Deputy Dawg Chemistry Set for a bit). I smelled it and discovered a nutty, slightly orangey nose of genuine Oloroso sherry. One sip and the caramel and earthy flavors of sherry wrapped in complex patterns around my tongue. There is a hint in the nose and the mouth of the spirit used in fortification. This wine is definitely sweet, but not cloying. How can they do this, I wonder, without the sine qua non of sherry production, the solera? Continue reading "The Munson Wine Trail: Homestead Winery, Making Sherry in North Texas"3 Comments »
It sounds like somebody still has some money and big ideas. “Listen” to this:
“High-end design and sensual opulence return to nightlife in Downtown Dallas this fall. Thrive, a Las Vegas style nightclub and Ten15 Elm restaurant will be in the new 20,000 square foot edition to the Downtown Dallas Crowne Plaza Hotel set to open this September at 1015 Elm St. This multimillion-dollar renovation was envisioned by the owner of TOG Hotel Properties, Terry Tognazzini and Charles Doell of Mister Important Design, renowned nightclub designer in San Francisco and Las Vegas.”
Somebody fill me in—I didn’t realize Downtown had lost its sensual opulence. Oh wait, there is more:
“The new edition of the Downtown Dallas Crowne Plaza Hotel will be transformed into a celebration of cutting edge style and luxury. Setting the new standard for Dallas’ nightlife experience, Thrive will offer unrivaled service in a high-energy atmosphere with state-of-the art lighting, elaborate metallic wall coverings, and a never-been-seen French ceiling. The French ceiling is a new concept from Europe that is created from stretching reflective vinyl over the ceiling and using molds to create stunning designs and visual effects.
Jump for more info on the bar. However, the details about the restaurant are scarce: “Ten15 Elm is a plush yet approachable dining destination that will offer simple well-executed dishes created by local Dallas chef Brian Litolff.” According to this, Litolff’s most recent gig was as a private chef in Allen. Continue reading "Opulence in the Time of Recession: Ten15 Elm Restaurant to Open in Downtown Dallas"1 Comment »
Wick’s explains the slow down and crash on FrontBurner. Pat Sharpe promised burger winner today. If the site is slow, follow us on Twitter: DSideDish.1 Comment »
Wow. Disher Andrew Chalk took his job at the Expo seriously. He just turned in video clips of the oddest finds at the show. Put on your earplugs and enjoy. (You know where to put the cork.) Great stuff, Andrew.
First up: Coffee made from civet cat poop.
Second: The cutlery eating machine.
Third: Food so good you can’t eat it.
Fourth: Making rum in Austin. Texas. Yes, Austin, Texas. Good stuff.
Finally: The talk of the Expo: Chocolate covered crickets. Yes, bugs.1 Comment »
Yesterday, the Southwest Foodservice Expo opened for a three-day run at the Dallas Convention Center. I spent most of the day wandering the halls with InsideCorner’s Evan “Grumpy” Grant. We bumped in to PegNews’ Teresa Gubbins and Marc Lee, Mark and Gena Maguire, Herschel Walker, Amy Severson, Lee Fuqua, and Richard Chamberlain.
I hope the 12 Dishers who “won” an opportunity to roam the event will file their reports below. If you followed DSideDish on Twitter, you already know our knee-jerk reactions. If not, I’ve decided to post my report through pictures. Click on the box below for slideshow.
|Southwest Foodservice Expo June 28, 2009|
Twelve Dishers and I will hit the floor of the Southwest Foodservice Expo on Sunday. Join us on Twitter (DSideDish) or catch the reports on Monday.7 Comments »
The Southwest Foodservice Expo starts next Sunday. Last week, I posted names of the Dishers picked to attend. If your name is on the list and you have NOT received a confirmation e-mail from me, click on my name below and let me know. We will be the Twittering Fools. (DSideDish)
foodczar, Shane, DallasDeliFan, webra, JJFoodie, TM, Brandy, Lori, Andrew, Robin, Rob, Lori, S, Margie, Lindsay.
On May 1st, I started making a batch of wine with Vintner’s Cellar’s owner Larry McDowell. During our first meeting, I chose to make Viognier and we started the project by mixing the juice of the grapes with yeast.
Two weeks later, I returned to rack the wine–separating wine from its sediment, or lees, and transferring my creation into another glass container using a plastic siphon.
Wednesday, I headed up to Plano to get down and dirty with my wine—we added all kinds of nasty sounding chemicals to degass the plonk, I mean wine. You see, when yeast converts the sugar to alcohol, carbon dioxide is a naturally occurring byproduct. So we opened little packets of potassium sorbate, metabisulphite de potassium, and Isinglass and added them to the fermented juice to kill the remaining yeast and help the solids sink to the bottom.
We stirred the mixture until it looked like cloudy unfiltered apple juice and then recapped. In two weeks, I’ll returned to taste, tweak, and bottle my wine. If you’d like to follow along with pictures, they’re below. Chin-chin.
|Science Project: Making Viognier, Stage 3|