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Top Chef Handicapping with Wes Mantooth

Fan fave Kevin. Photo courtesy bravotv.com

Disher Wes Mantooth just sent me a love letter. “The D-Empire blogs are all boring as spit today,” he says. Anyway, he wants to talk about Top Chef, and I know there are several TC fans out there. His thoughts are below.

Top Chef is coming to a close. Who’s not going to make it? We’ve got 5 left: Kevin, Jennifer, Eli, and the Brothers. The easy call is that Jen and Eli both wind up packing their knives, but we’ve seen in the past that it only takes one little slip for an otherwise more-talented chef to get packing before their time was due, resulting in a less-talented poseur to take the crown (i.e. Josea). So, here’s my handicapping on who makes it to the Final Table:

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Chef Bruno Davaillon: The Video Interview

Can’t get enough Bruno Davaillon? Andrew Chalk did a video interview with the chef after dinner. He finds out all about Bruno’s favorite things, the kinds of foods he likes best, and much more. Watch below.

Andrew Chalk: Report on New Bruno Davaillon Dishes at the Mansion

Andrew Chalk visited the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek to sample chef Bruno Davaillon’s new menu and give us a report. You might have seen recaps on other sites, but Chalk’s is the most detailed I’ve read. Jump for it.

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New Mansion Chef Bruno Davaillon Dishes on Dallas

He’s heeerrrreee…new Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek restaurant chef Bruno Davaillon is officially in ‘da house. We got to ask him a few questions this afternoon after he finished serving lunch to the Hunts. (All in a day’s work.) He’s French, he’s got a great accent, and most importantly, he’s got Dallas’ first Michelin star. Jump for it.

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Dining Critics and Anonymity: Does it Really Matter Anymore?

Sometimes you feel like a duck. Sometimes you don’t.

I find it interesting that two high-profile dining critics are changing their tune about the importance of remaining anonymous. Maybe it’s because they are no longer high-profile dining critics. Former New York Times dining critics Ruth Reichl and Frank Bruni have been giving interviews with quotes such as these:

“Dining companions are not good covert operations agents,” Bruni says. It’s one of the many reasons Bruni no longer feels restaurant critics can remain anonymous.

Is Bruni paving the way for his successor Sam Sifton? Before Sifton took over as the Times critic, he was the cultural news editor and deputy dining editor. His head shot was plastered all over the paper and the web. Sifton was forced into wearing disguises before he wrote his first lead review.

I believe anonymity is important—I have a closet full of clothes, glasses, and wigs to prove it. As a magazine editor, I have interviewed a lot of chefs in Dallas. I have even traveled with a few to do feature stories. As a dining critic, I have managed to slip past them in their restaurants and review them. (Hi Avner! Hi Dean!) That said, even when I am recognized (Hi, Kent!), which is not very often, it doesn’t always guarantee the restaurant will provide a perfect dining experience. Just because there is a dining critic in a restaurant doesn’t make the chef a better chef or the menu a better menu. Service might step up a notch, but it has been my experience that servers overcompensate and make more mistakes when they know they are serving a critic.

Most restaurant critics don’t get busted by personal appearance, they are outed by their behavior. Asking too many questions upfront and ordering too much food are dead giveaways to perceptive servers. A critic also has to be careful what they say at the table. You never know who is sitting next to you or what they will say to the manager, chef, or owner.

Servers, what do you think? Chefs? Fire away. Dishers, take your best shot.

(BTW, love this.)

Update on Screen Door: Chef David McMillan

Chef David McMillan has nothing to whine about. He’s happy to be the new chef at Screen Door.

It’s been a busy few days for chef David McMillan. He and Mico Rodiguez are in full gear at Screen Door. I finally caught up with him last night.

NN: How is it going?
DM: Things are good. We moved in this week. It’s going to be interesting. This place has  never done what its supposed to do.

NN: What are you initial challenges?
DM: The higher end [of the restaurant business] is tough and we are going to reposition it. The lobster was I think $80, now the lobster is $45. It’s a cute space but it is not functional from a service perspective. It’s a space that needs to be taken in another direction to survive.

NN: Well, Mico certainly knows a lot about finishing out a space.
DM: Mico and I are having a good time. We are both caustic and with a sense of humor. We’ll won’t shut down but will  be doing construction on the inside. We’ll probably be opening up the green waving partitions and the sitting area with the tree stumps. We want to start including the younger generation while still keeping the concept Southern. We’re not going small plates, but we want to be more usable in the bar area and bring down the price point. Need to straddle old customers and a build new [customer base].

NN: What about the current staff?
DM: Well, Rick Stein is a great guy and he will be leaving but we would love to work with him again. Fitz [chef Fitzgerald Dodd] is staying through next weekend. Tami the sous chef is going to open Tillman’s in FT worth. Erica, the pastry chef is staying. Fitz has been through a lot. He has been through the mental, only confusing time, of [original owner] Scott Jones. He [Jones], still has sweat equity but he has been gone for a long time.

NN: Well, the timing is certainly good with the opening of the Arts District.
DM: Our timing and the arts center opening couldn’t be better.  And our wine list is doing great. Jeff [sommelier] is doing good. We are starting to see the $150 mark moving.  It’s fun place to work.

Bailey’s Prime Plus is Minus an Executive Chef

According to EscapeHatchDallas.com, co-executive chef Chris Meier resigned from for undisclosed reasons. A source “close to the situation” says, “Too many chiefs in the kitchen.” The rest of the culinary team is discussed here.

UPDATE: I just realized the editor of EscapeHatchDallas is former DMN restaurant critic, Mike Hiller, Nice.

Get Your Love Shack Burger Fix at Austin City Limits

A music-loving tipster just sent me this info: Fort Worth’s favorite cowboy hat-wearing chef, Tim Love, is bringing his Love Shack to Austin City Limits this weekend. I’ve never been to the festival before, but apparently there’s an Eats Food Court in Zilker Park where restaurants set up shop and serve food. Oh, here’s the list of restaurants. Love’s burgers will fit in just fine with Torchy’s Tacos (yes please), Amy’s Ice Cream, and more. Almost makes me wish I was going.

Sneak Peek of John Tesar’s Modern Steak and Seafood

For those of you who’ve been missing the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek’s former chef John Tesar, his new restaurant in the Woodlands is open. The Brad has a sneak peek over here. He calls the space “sexy” and the food “seductive.” He’s seems definitely, um, excited. Also worth noting: Tesar has his own line of condiments now, with a little cartoon Tesar on each bottle. Brad mentions a wasabi mustard, and it looks like there’s also a ketchup, and a chipotle BBQ sauce.

This May Sound a Bit Cheesy, but …

On Wednesday afternoon my good friend and colleague, Nancy Nichols, called me and said “Get over here right away, I need to see you. I am making you the Big Cheese!”

I’m thinking: Promotion!

Nancy was thinking: Cheese!

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SideDish CheeseHeads Celebrate Texas Cheese and Wine at Celebration

Paula Lambert and Evan Grant. Who knew?

An emergency surgery on a torn retina kept me from attending last evening’s SideDish CheeseHead Celebration at Celebration Restaurant. My good friend and award-winning blogger, Evan Grant (way to go, Grumpy!), subbed for me. Needless to say, he and Mozzarella Company owner Paula Lambert bonded instantly. Thanks to the folks at Lucky Layla, Latte Da, and Mozzarella Company for generously supplying their cheeses. Also thanks to Kiepersol Winery for donating bottles of their award winning Cabernet and Merlot and to wine guru Whit Meyers for pouring them. Kudos to the Ozarows from Empire Baking Company for the bread. Celebration owner Ed Lowe and the great facilitator Lincoln (sorry don’t have his last name) gave us the space and plenty of set-up support. Evan is working up a report of the evening. Thanks to the 50-strong SideDish CheeseHeads who showed up. Here’s looking at you! A few R.P. Washburne photos after the jump. (more…)

SideDish Supper Club at Nonna: First Look

Zucchini blossoms from Nonna. Last night’s SideDish Supper Club at Nonna was a delicious success. We hope you will chime in with comments if you were there. I’ve got photos after the jump, but this is a picture of the first course, the antipasti. The baked zucchini blossoms (from Tom Spicer, as chef Barsotti explained to us before we ate) stuffed with Paula Lambert’s goat’s milk ricotta were one of my favorite dishes of the night.

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Restaurant Reviews: When is it “Legal” to Review a New Restaurant?

“Talking to myself and feeling old/Sometimes I’d like to quit/Nothing ever seems to fit/Hangin’ around, nothing to do but frown/Rainy days and Mondays always get me down”—The Carpenters

I am feeling so Karen Carpenter today. Not skinny, just beat down. It all started on Saturday when I ended up in lengthy conversation with a veteran Dallas restaurateur on the “rules” surrounding a restaurant review. He/She shall remain nameless.

Anywhoo, He/She had a (loud) question for me: “Hey, since when did it become okay for a restaurant critic to review a restaurant during the first week of operation?” I had no idea what He/She was talking about so I asked, “What do you mean.” He/She raged on incredulously: “Well Leslie Brenner went to Park the first week it opened and based a lot of her review on what happened during the first week.”

“Whoa, hold on,” I said. “I have not read Brenner’s review because I have not written mine. Until I do, I’m not comfortable talking about it.”

“Well, then let’s make this a hypothetical case,” He/She said. “When do you consider it fair to go into a new restaurant and judge it?” My first reaction was to say as long as a restaurant charges a full price, they are fair game. However, I knew that I was dealing with a seasoned restaurateur who was ready to shoot down that standard line so I said boldly, “Whenever the restaurant charges a customer a full price, they are fair game.” (Jump here.) (more…)

What’s Tre Wilcox Up To These Days?

Apparently, Macy’s. The Top Chef favorite and former Abacus chef is hosting the department store’s “Come Together” kick-off event this Sept. 17 at the Galleria location. Wilcox and other local chefs will share their favorite recipes while raising awareness and money to fight domestic hunger. Tickets to the Macy’s event are $10.

Il Cane Rosso’s Jay Jerrier Is Totally ’80s On ShopTalk

Eric Stoltz in Some Kind of Wonderful: just one of my '80s crushes.

Yesterday, over on ShopTalk (our sister blog about shopping, fashion, beauty, and other fun stuff), Rhonda Reinhart asked people to submit photos of themselves from the 1980’s. There might even be a prize for the best (worst?) photo. The example she used is of Eric Celeste, and it is pretty amazing. Okay, okay, what does this have to do with food? Jay Jerrier of Il Cane Rosso submitted his photo this morning. It.Is.Awesome. And there’s even some Ratt involved. Is it better than Eric’s? Discuss. And please, submit your own, if you dare.

How To Cook Rack of Lamb Like Charlie Palmer, The Video

Colorado lamb rack with fingerling Lyonnaise and pancetta balsamic reduction.

As Jennifer has mentioned, I got to cook with Charlie Palmer at his restaurant yesterday. Well, I didn’t really cook. I just asked questions and got sweaty, and left the cooking to chef Palmer and his exec, Scott Romano. Kyle Kearbey got it all on camera.

Watch the video here. Inspired? Make this dish tonight.

Will Central 214 Top Chef Blythe Beck Bottom Out on TV?

Is reality TV good for the career of a chef? I don’t watch enough to have an educated opinion but, from where I sit, it looks like more top chefs bottom out after their 15 minutes, or months, of fame. Casey who? Tre what? Lisa Garza is where? Dig what I’m shooting at you?

Next girl up is Central 214’s Blythe Beck. She will star in The Naughty Kitchen With Chef Blythe Beck on Oxygen. I’ve never really understood the naughty kitchen concept. So I checked the shows website. It says:

Blythe Beck, the fiery young chef and star of Oxygen’s upcoming series The Naughty Kitchen With Chef Blythe Beck, shows off her distinctive sexy American cuisine, her cutting edge Dallas restaurant, Central 214, and her loud and flamboyant staff. The Naughty Kitchen With Chef Blythe Beck is certain to cook up the drama both in and out of the kitchen. Oxygen follows executive chef Blythe Beck, a 29-year old Texas native, who is plus-sized in stature and personality, and her colorful crew at Central 214, inside and outside the kitchen as they interact with the Dallas elite and the local university students.

Monday night I went to Central 214 to check it out and write a mini-review. Sadly, I didn’t see waitresses in garter belts or waiters wearing thongs, but I did find the Door Whores. And calories. Lots of calories. What is sexy about calories? I guess we will find out when the show starts on September 22nd. Somebody tell me this is a good thing.

DMN & Eatsblog Loses Shannon Sutlief to Pegasus News

Yow. Zah. Pegasus News is, as my mother always says, chicken on fire. First they announce “Outbursts,” and now I learn on Twitter they’ve lured Shannon Sutlief from her perches at  DMN, GuideLive.com, and Eatsblog to the roost at PegNews.  I wonder if roost-ruling Teresa Gubbins (no link, Sweet Cheeks, I do have limits) will even talk to me anymore. She’s pretty big time now.

Pegasus News is Desperate for Comments: Develops “Outbursts”

Mike Orren needs your help. Keep your comments on SideDish.

I thought I was desperate for attention! Mike Orren, the wizard behind the Oz over at Pegasus News, has found another outlet for his ADHD—it’s called Outbursts. The feature is designed especially for your prefrontal cortex and encourages “verified users” to “post news and links on any local topic you like. All you have to do is click the “Post an Outburst” link on the Outbursts page.”  According to this “complete guide to ADHD site” symptoms of the disorder include “blurting out inappropriate comments, show their emotions without restraint, and act without regard for consequences.” Check out Outbursts and leave your scathing comments here. Remember, we have prizes and they don’t!

AIWF Folks Announce Winners of Best Restaurant Week Wine and Food Pairings

The members of the American Institute of Wine and Food’s DFW Chapter have been doing a lot of eating lately. They had to, in order to find who had the best wine and food pairings at restaurants participating in KRLD Restaurant Week (17–23).

The winning chef and somm get a week’s stay at the Culinary Institute of America’s Greystone Campus in Cali.

Here’s a hint: the winning restaurant served a grilled Texas peach salad with a Brazos brie crouton.

Jump for the winners.

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SideDish TableTalk: Three Jews, Zinsky’s Deli in Dallas, Six Opinions

We hope to start an occasional feature here on SideDish in which one of us adventurous eaters endeavors to discuss a restaurant experience with either some dinner companions or a couple of Dishers who might have expertise in the area.

For the first installment of SideDish TableTalk, I knew just where to go to round up a couple of fellow Chosen People to talk about Zinsky’s Delicatessen. What follows is the transcript of that conversation (or, if you prefer, complaint fest). We all seem to like Zinsky’s very much, but that doesn’t stop myself, “The Pastrami Kid,” and “Harry” from finding something to kvetch about. Below we discuss important Deli issues such as the one-handed sandwich, kasha knishes, and bagels. You don’t have to be Jewish to appreciate this, but it helps.

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Turning the Tables: What is the Best Meal You Ever Ate in Dallas?

Okay, Dishers, let’s hit this one out to the cheap seats. Here are some of my most memorable bites in Dallas:

Steak au poivre with fried parsley at Ewald’s.
Chris Ward’s halibut at The Mercury.
Chiles rellenos at original Matt’s.
Wingfield’s burger. (Pat Sharpe, you blew it.)
Every meal I ate when Avner Samuel was the chef at The Mansion.
Pork buns at Yao Fuzi in Plano.
Cinnamon rolls at Southern Kitchen.
Youngblood’s fried chicken.
Kona crusted steak at Capital Grille.
Chicken fried steak and any pie at Ranchman’s in Ponder.

Plattershooting: Dallas Restaurant News, Notes, and Pokin’ Fun

Menchie’s Frozen Yogurt will open in Highland Park Village this Saturday, August 29th. Menchie’s “fro-yo” is a self-serve concept. I’ve heard unconfirmed reports that Menchie’s will offer “Teresa’s Topping,” a special mix of nuts, nibs, and blueberries. (KIDDING) Do expect “special promotions, coupons, and freebies on Saturday. 214-252-0003.

The XVIII Annual Caesar Salad Competition is around the corner: Sunday, August 30, 2009, 4:30 pm to 8:30 pm at the Sheraton Dallas Hotel, 400 North Olive Street to be more precise. “This is your opportunity for an evening of sensational salads, wonderful wine, tantalizing bites, and a chance to vote for the best Caesar salad.”  Members: $65.00. Non-Members: $75.00. Tables of 10: $600.00. Deets here.

Sambuca Restaurant, “known for live music, eclectic cuisine and a rockin’ atmosphere,” will open its newest location Thursday, September 3, 2009 at the Shops at Legacy.

Bailey’s Prime Plus is “pleased to announce the appointment of Chris Rowberry as General Manager of their new 12,000 sq. ft. restaurant in the exciting new Park Lane development at North Central Expressway and Park Lane. Rowberry joins Bailey’s Prime Plus after nearly four years as General Manager of Chamberlain’s Steak and Chop House in Addison, Texas.”

Vin Classic Wines will present a complimentary wine tasting on both Friday and  Saturday  (September 4th and  5th) from Noon until 7:00 p.m. The featured wines are: Steele Pinot Blanc 2006 Santa Barbara County Selene Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Carneros Steele Cabernet Franc 2007 Lake County Snowden “The Ranch” Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa Valley. (5717 Legacy Drive #120. Plano. 469-467-4520)

“In celebration of the Dallas Cowboys upcoming season, RA Sushi Bar Restaurant has come up with the “Cowboys Roll,” which will be available from September 13 through the entire football season.  Guests can also receive $2 off the roll if they present a same-day game day ticket stub.”

According to Eatsblog reporter, Kim Pearce, her Sig-O “likes his Bings to ping with crispness.”

Mini Review: DallasChocolate.org Tasting and Dinner in Dallas

We had to stare at this for 75 minutes without tasting.

Allison Hatfield files this report:

Chocolate comes in many forms. My faves: the kiss and the fountain. I never met a marshmallow kabob I couldn’t improve with a pass through a shower of molten chocolate. I even bought a mini chocolate fountain so I could have one at a housewarming (I later tried to turn it into a cheese fountain, but that’s a story for another day).

Anyway, my relationship with chocolate has previously been that of a rather low-end consumer. And I’m fine with that, but I was also excited to expand my horizons at Saturday’s chocolate tasting and dinner hosted by DallasChocolate.org.

From bean to bar.

About 40 foodie types met at Milestone Culinary center in the afternoon to hear Alan McClure and Steve DeVries—world-class artisan chocolate makers and founding members of Craft Chocolate Makers of America—talk about harvesting, fermenting, roasting, grinding, refining, and conching (I still have no idea what that is). It was a high-level education on the sometimes low-tech business of making chocolate, from beans to bar. And it was pure torture. Not because these guys aren’t really smart and interesting, but have you ever spent 75 minutes sitting in front of eight kinds of chocolate without eating any of them? Try it, friends.

When we’d finally learned enough to appreciate what lay ahead, we crunched on bittersweet nibs (roasted then crushed cocao beans) and let a large piece of untempered chocolate melt on our tongues—as happy as Charlie with the golden ticket.

Rhonda Ruckman, formerly of Doughmonkey made us cry.

All that learning worked up an appetite for the chocolate-inspired dinner that followed the tasting. Passed hors d’oeuvres included crostini with lavender goat cheese and nibs. Sit-down fare was summer greens with a savory chocolate tower (chocolate on a salad—really), herb-crusted salmon with a chocolate balsamic glaze, and dueling desserts of chocolate cake and chocolate tart from Doughmonkey extraordinaire Rhonda Ruckman. (We miss you, Doughmonkey.)

More photos here.

New Restaurant in Dallas: Mario & Sabino’s

Mario Alfaro has repainted the old Casa Blanca.

The old Casa Blanca on Lemmon Avenue is turning into the new Mario & Sabino’s a “Mexican and Salvadoran food restaurant. Mario is Mario Alfaro (left) and his business partner is Sabino Valle. Mario hopes to open next week. Hmm. I just stuck my head in the door and if they make it by next week, I want to hire the contractors.

Mario & Sabino’s, a new Mexican Salvadoran food restaurant on Lemmon Ave.