The Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek's chef Bruno Davaillon and his station, which had my favorite item, smoked hummus. Photos by David Higbee

Friday night’s soirée, TACA Lexus Party on the Green, took place on the lawn at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek.  There were cars up for winning, a cork pull, fabulous trips and dinners in the silent auction, and food. Oh, so much food. More than 30 chefs gathered in the courtyard to offer up some of their best fare. And it was all going really well, too, that is until Mother Nature got involved. It was a bit muggy at first, then there were sprinkles—little ones that grew—and then it rained. Partygoers and chefs headed toward the doors of the Mansion. Within a couple minutes, Mansion employees walked around offering umbrellas to those who stayed outside. But within maybe 15 minutes, it all cleared up, people and chefs returned to their stations, and the party continued.

Stephanie Hutson, marketing manager at The Mansion, was in high spirits. She said the party hosted about 600 guests. But she was also looking forward to the weekend when she would travel with Mansion chef Bruno Davaillon to the James Beard awards. Davallion’s dish was one of the best of the night. He served pork belly with smoked hummus, pickled ramps and rhubarb. I’m a sucker for hummus. Friday night, I discovered I’m a sucker for smoked hummus. I also really enjoyed Tim Byres’ dry cured pork with purslane and cantaloupe. It was a light, fresh dish on a muggy evening.

Chef Serge Botelli from Rosewood Tucker’s Point in Bermuda got rave reviews for his ancho-cocoa rubbed grilled quail, which came with sage polenta, spiced capsicum jus, and fig syrup. Several people also directed us to the Crescent’s chef Juan Rosado. He was serving a short rib with crispy, sticky rice and pickled vegetables. The ribs (a little large for one bite, but still manageable) offered a bit of kick at the end, which paired nicely with the rice.

I have a very large sweet tooth, so I knew I couldn’t leave without trying the Mansion’s chef Nicolan Blouin’s Mansion Macaroon Mania, an assortment of macaroons, which were made in-house. My favorite was the peanut butter and jelly. I’m simple.

Jump for food shots.

Photos by David Higbee

David Trubenbach's takes his Farm-To-Fire cuisine seriously. The shape of the hotel whips winds into a vortex.

It’s been  a year since I wrote about the opening of Asador, the restaurant in the Dallas Renaissance Hotel. The report announced the arrival of chef/proprietor Dean  Max and, a young, talented and energetic chef with a focus on farm-to-table (or “farm-to-fire” as Asador would rather term it) principles. Ditto for onsite chef David Trubenbach. I also noted Marriott corporation’s commitment to a destination restaurant in the Dallas Renaissance Hotel, a promise they backed up with an extensive Tequila collection. As downtown Dallas restaurants convert, seemingly like flies, to steak houses, I decided to check-in, so to speak, at Asador to see if they are staying true to their original mission. Here is what I found.

Seafood Texas Cigar: (lump crab, gulf rock shrimp, cilantro, poblano, and lemon aioli in a wrapper or feuilles de brick.

I attended a media event this week which included the presence of Chef Max. After tasting the creations, I can confirm Asador is doing very nicely. Robust hotel bookings are the backbone of solid numbers at lunch and in the evening. The concept of corporate chef Dean James Max has actually expanded and deepened the restaurant’s commitment to preparing dishes in-house and using artisanal suppliers. The tequila collection has evolved into a full mixology program and includes an expanded beer list which currently boasts 35 selections, including eight from Texas.

The one puzzle, to me, is that Asador is still relatively unknown and not patronized by Dallasites seeking a destination restaurant. Here’s what those folks are missing:

The philosophy described above translates to a menu that is printed on pretty flimsy card stock. That’s good, because the reason is that Asador Chef David Trubenbach changes one or two items every day. The result is a constantly evolving expression of seasonal freshness backed up by a commitment to let the ingredients speak for themselves. Since my report last year, he has spent a lot of time exploring local producers and has been quite brutal dealing with any producers whose quality or ethics do not fit his ideals. He grew up close to the coast (in Florida) and has had an overall positive experience sourcing in the very different climate of Texas.

Grilled Calamari Salad (corn, mâche, avocado, bacon, lardoons)

He thinks cheese is a strong suit here. He’s uses Gouda from Dave Eagle at Eagle Mountain Farmhouse Cheese and several cheeses from Paula Lambert at The Mozzarella Company. He is currently looking for a really good Texas cheddar-style cheese. Fresh produce comes from a number of farms including Rocco Tassione’s Tassione Farm in Stephenville and Chef’s Produce, an unusual produce merchant in that it requires that all of its sales representatives to be qualified chefs. The biggest challenge has been seafood, due partly to the move inland from Florida and partly to the problems in the Gulf during 2011. He has, however, made up the supply difficulties with some interesting preparations. For example, he smokes salmon (which he sources from the Bay of Fundy) and other ‘oily’ fish. He uses grass-fed beef ground up in burgers or braised but recognizes that most customers prefer corn-fed steak. So if a steak is really what you want, there is no need to leave the hotel.

Mahi Mahi with Mole Sauce

The new items I mentioned above take various forms. The ‘Taco Tuesdays’ program  I cited last time is flourishing. Each Tuesday at 4:30pm  you can order two tacos and a taste of tequila for $6. You can add a $15 Tequila Family Flight (three tequilas) or a $6 margarita as well. Mondays are ‘Reverse Happy Hour’ from 9pm until 11pm, and every day is Happy Hour from 4pm until 7pm. On Thursdays, select wines from the list are half-off.  Friday’s menu offers alternating Chef’s Table dinners. Wine, beer, and tequila rotate on consecutive weeks as the beverage that is paired with a three-or four-course menu (plus amuse) for $45 + t & t. The meal is served at a 12-place chef’s table and Trubenbach introduces the dishes and interacts with the guests.

Asador now has a selection of specialty cocktails prepared by Tyler Lott the, ahem, hottest Mixologist I have seen. She is self-taught, but hasn’t missed a thing. The cocktails  I tasted were carefully conceived and impeccably executed. The Bloody Maria is especially recommended.

Grilled Chicken with Mole Sauce

One thing I would like them to revisit is their wine list. They need to carry over the local element of the food to to the list.  There is not a single Texas wine on the list. This is at the very time in Texas wine history at which there is least justification for such an omission. I suspect that it happened because the list is sourced from ‘central listing’ and, rather like the case at the similarly focused Central 214, the local people need to bring the issue to the attention of the powers that be. If Hunter Hammett at The Pyramid Restaurant can sell Texas wine, then so can others. Also, the markup on the list is three times that of retail price (e.g. 2009 The Prisoner Zinfandel $89, 2010 Pascual Toso Malbec $35). That kind of mark-up is common in Dallas restaurants, but it is a big disincentive to order wine. That being said, this list shows good geographical coverage for its size, and there are over 20 wines by the glass and several available in half bottles. Perhaps the solution here is a dedicated sommelier?

Another welcome change is the ‘welcome.’ The large area that the restaurant occupies used to feel like an airport lounge. In particular, it wasn’t clear how you indicated you wanted a table after you arrived in the hotel lobby. Now the restaurant area is roped off and a maître’d stand learly marks the entrance.

Fried Gouda with Guava Purée and Spicy Arugula

The Chef’s Table menu I sampled recently illustrated what the food at Asador is all about. We started with an amuse of Seafood Texas Cigar : lump crab, gulf rock shrimp, cilantro, poblano pepper, and lemon aioli in a wrapper of feuilles de brick).

The salad course was Grilled Calamari Salad (corn, mâche, avocado, bacon, lardoons). What a creative change from the standard house salad. This dish did not just have the buttery-ness of avocado and crunchy saltiness of bacon, but the squid was presented in a way that did not make it seem like it had been swimming around the core of Fukushima reactor #3 at the wrong time.

Next, we had a choice of either surf or scratch, so to speak. The scratch was grilled chicken and the surf a grilled mahi mahi. Both were served with succotash of onions, plantains, haricot vert, and black bean purée. Both were covered with a mole sauce. Interestingly, the recipe for the mole sauce came from the mother of a former supervisor on the kitchen line. To accompany this, we had a smoked margarita which was uncannily smoky.

Warm Chocolate Chipotle Cake with Dulce de Leche Ice Cream

Next Fried Gouda with Guava Purée and Spicy Arugula was like a warm cheese course.

Finally, the dessert was Warm Chocolate Chipotle Cake with Dulce de Leche Ice Cream. All made in-house and accompanied by Jalisco Espresso, a cocktail with more coffee intensity than many real coffees.

The Chef’s Table is an excellent way to sample the kind of food served by Asador and an excellent value. In addition, the hotel has ample free parking and valet if preferred. Over the last year, Asador continues to expand the scope of its food and beverage programs. Get out of your comfort zone and give it a try.

Dah DAT is fixing a pre-tasting dinner on Friday, January 6. The “Deep Ellum arrival time” is 7PM. The (deep) six-course eclectic New Orleans-inspired tasting menu is $70 per person (plus-plus). This event is BYOB. But you must call Sir Wilkes for a seat: 214-680-5740. Absinthe butter is the new olive oil.

Oh, and one more thing about DAT. He’s offering you a chance to ride VIP. Here’s his crazy pitch:

We about to make our list 100% PRIVATE. Which means that YOU will be an exclusive member of our list and the only way for an outsider to join this exclusive list of amazing people will be to pay a membership fee of $25 to receive the emails and information for these events.

Whatch yáll think ‘bout DAT?

Oh yeah, it's for real.

We’re suckers for any press release that contains the following sentences:

• Yes, this is really real.
• Don’t you judge us; we all knew it would end up here someday.
• And yeah, your right we probably did go too far this time.
• Sorry, Mom.

It seems a couple well-intentioned entrepreneurs have teamed up with J&D’s Foods to create a little something they’re calling baconlube—the world’s first bacon-flavored, water-based, American-made, personal lubricant.

Billing itself as the “gold standard of meat-flavored massage oils” (natch) baconlube, they say, is like the McRib of sex: it’s delicious, makes men crazy, is here for a limited time, and is in short supply.

If you’re thinking “stocking stuffer!” (let’s stay on track here), we’re right behind you. But the boys only made 3,000 bottles of this pork-flavored nectar. It hit the interwebs yesterday at www.baconlube.com. How much, you ask, for a product that promises such a satisfying holiday season? Only $11.99.

you know you want more. jump for it…Still on the fence? Here’s a little rationalization.

FACT – People are passionate about bacon.  According to a recent survey of Canadians by Maple Leaf Foods, Canada’s market leader in the bacon category, when asked to choose between bacon and sex, more than four in 10 (43%) chose bacon.  Thanks to baconlube, Canadians will never have to choose between two of life’s greatest pleasures again.  So you’re welcome Canada, you’re welcome – we’ve got your back.

Need I mention, we’ve requested a sample?

Thursday, November 17th at 6:30 Vino 100 partners with Bottled Poetry Imports to present a tasting of stellar Argentine Malbec and Malbec blends paired with beef roasted all day on a spit, along with other tasty offerings like beef empanadas, by Chef Andrew Ormbsy of Andrew Ormsby Catering, D Magazine’s Best Caterer 2011.
Wines will include:

·        Caluna 2009 (a blend of 48% Malbec, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot)
·        Amauta I 2009 (a blend of 60% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Syrah)
·        Finca Gabrielli Malbec 2010 (100% Malbec)
·        Huarpe 2008 Seleccíon de Bodega ( a blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon)
·        Bressia Monteagrelo Malbec 2008 (100% Malbec)
·        Las Nencias Malbec Reserva 2009 (100% Malbec)
Reservations required –  214-969-9463

If you want to get a jump on holiday shopping, or just want to stock your own bar, Sigel’s on Greenville will hold their Liqueur Extravaganza on Wednesday, November 16th starting at 5pm.  Over 60 “festive” liqueurs will be available for tasting, your free passport will entitle you to taste 12.  Liqueurs include everything from the recently released Cinnamon Spice Kahlua, to St. Germain, to Patron XO Cafe, to Frangelico, to Drambouie 15. RSVP here.

Tomorrow night, Tuesday November 15, one of my favorite wineries will be featured at Bailey’s Prime Plus, Shops at Park Lane, for a hearty fall dinner.  Arista Winery in Sonoma County, CA will be featured, with winemaker and Texas native Mark McWilliams.  Arista is one of the most beautiful wineries I have ever visited, set in the hills of Russian River with a serene Japanesse garden welcoming visitors to sit and enjoy a glass of their beautiful Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir or Zinfandel.  The menu will feature Crispy Sweetbreads, Balsamic Chestnut Glazed Pheasant and Roasted Texas Antelope paired with Arista wines.
Reservations required – 214-750-8100.

Friday, November 18th legendary Chef and Restaurateur Wolfgang Puck will be in town, cooking a five course meal at his Five Sixty Restaurant at Reunion Tower with Executive Chef Patton Robertson.  Reservations required -214.741.5560.  The menu includes:

Amuse Bouche of Lobster & Shrimp Springroll with Ginger Black Bean Sauce;
a first course choice of Hot & Sour Sweet Pumpkin Soup or Crystal Chive Dumpling with Alaskan King Crab, Gulf Shrimp and Kurobuta Pork;
a second course of Whole Sea Bass Baked in “Fragrant” Salt Crust;
a third course of Roasted “Peking Style” Duck Breast with Bao Buns; and a fourth course of Duo of “Szechwan Style” Kobe Beef.  The experience finishes with Chef Isla Vargas’ delectable Marjolasian with Coffee Chocolate Gelato.

Sunday, November 20th Parigi will host the wine release party for Oak Cliff Cellars, the winery based in Oak Cliff and owned by Dallas resident Jim Richardson, creating flavorful, varietally correct wines from grapes sourced throughout California in Napa Valley.  This is the first year Richardson has dabbled into some new Rhone varietals, which will be  a part of the dinner, including Mourvedre and Grenache.  Call for reservations  - 214-521-0295. Menu includes:

WELCOMING RECEPTION
Passed Hors d’Oeuvres: Lobster BLT Assorted Deviled Eggs
Oak Cliff Cellars 2009 Sonoma Chardonnay

FIRST COURSE
Crab 2 Ways… …Gulf Coast Crabcake with Tomatillo Salsa… Crab Salad with Tarragon Rémoulade over Shaved Fennel-Green Apple Slaw Oak Cliff Cellars 2010 Lake County Sauvignon Blanc

SECOND COURSE
Cream of Mushroom Soup with the Neal’s Farm Perfect Egg…Black Cherry-Balsamic Drizzle
Oak Cliff Cellars 2010 Wild Diamond Mourvedre

THIRD COURSE
Grilled Quail with Grenache-Peppercorn Glaze…Red Quinoa Pilaf
Oak Cliff Cellars 2010 Wild Diamond Grenache

FOURTH COURSE
Pork and Beans…Burgundy Pastures Crispy Pork Belly…All Day Green Beans
Oak Cliff Cellars 2009 Firebrick Zinfandel

DESSERT
Molten Chocolate Cake with Blueberry Coulis
Oak Cliff Cellars 2009 Lovers Lane Petite Sirah

Stephan Pyles will host two incredible farm to table events helping teach guests either how to cook with seasonal produce on their own, or just enjoy it when it is done to perfection for them.  Saturday November 26th Chefs Stephan Pyles and Joel Harrington will host a cooking class, featuring Arizona farmer, Richard Starkey, using heirloom products and teaching farm to table techniques; Monday, November 28 the chefs will create a four course, locally sourced ingredient driven meal with wine pairings.  Reservations required for both – 214-999-1229, ext. 102.

Nick and Sam's Steakhouse (Samir Dhurandhar). Cantonese Shrimp

The March of Dimes Signature Chefs Auction is a major fundraiser for the organization each year. The event on Saturday night was a sell out and over 800 people filled the Fairmont Hotel’s Regency Ballroom to participate in a live and silent auction and enjoy food prepared by 17 talented and generous chefs led by Kent Rathbun of Abacus (and other concepts). The money raised (watch this space for a total when announced) will fund the March of Dimes work to end birth defects. A major focus for the charity at the present time is premature birth. It is a startling fact that, despite a quarter century of rising living standards and technological progress, the national premature birth rate has increased 36 percent. Premature birth is now the number one cause of death for newborns. March of Dimes funds research, education and community programs in Dallas and operates state wide on public policy issues that impinge on this situation. November 17th is World Prematurity Day. Attendees of Saturday’s event met the Ambassador Family for the March of Dimes, the Strauss Family, who have a son born prematurely. Fox 4 weeknight sports anchor Mike Doocy emceed the event and gently cajoled the responsive crowd to give. In addition to donors on the night, a long list of local companies sponsored at various levels, making a major difference to the total funds raised.

Attendees spent most of the evening savoring food from the chefs. Not only did those chefs provide their food and staff, many also donated to the live or silent auctions. Most had created elaborate special meals for groups of between 4 to 12 people, but there were several that offered ‘additions’ to the meal.

Jump for the deals and the meals.

• one chef was offering a hunting trip and accommodations in his lodge;
• one offered a brewery tour;
• three chefs offered upscale hotel accommodations in addition to the meal (nothing like walking upstairs to bed);
• one offered a cooking class;
• one offered a meeting with the winemaker at the meal;
• one offered the meal in a Lexus showroom and the dealer would provide the bidder with a week’s free use of a Lexus of their choice (tip: choose the LFA);
• one would host your New Year’s Eve Party;
• one offered a round of golf, a wine tasting and spa day;
• one would accompany the winner on an expenses paid trip to Napa for four days.

The pictures below give a sense of the specialties offered on the evening. I don’t usually detect trends at charity fundraisers but there seems to be a couple here. Asian influences abounded, whether they be subtle flavors like Gilbert Garza’s almost raw yellow fin tuna or full-on Asian food such as André Natera’s Thai pork dumplings or Richard Chamberlain’s Kobe beef potstickers. Also, a Latin American trend appears to be evident. Abraham Salum showcased Komali (rather than his eponymous restaurant) and Matt McCallister’s Campo (based on the food of Mendoza, Argentina) was serving too. Latin influences (like cilantro and jicama) cropped up elsewhere too.

Abacus (Kent Rathbun). Niman Ranch Chipotle "Bacon and Eggs"

Bijoux and Second Floor Bistro and Bar (Scott Gottlich). Duck Confit with Blue Cheese-Stuffed Dates

Campo Modern Country Bistro (Matthew McCallister). Tempura Morcilla with Tart Vanilla Apples and Bone Marrow Sabayon

Chamberlain's Steak and Chop House (Richard Chamberlain). Kobe Beef Potstickers with Mandarin Orange Ponzu and Wasabi Cream

Charlie Palmer at the Joule (Richard Blankenship). Ricotta Ravioli, Braised Pork, Fiore Sardo.

Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse (David Holben). Roasted Rack of Lamb, Herb Goat Cheese and Spiced Tomato Glaze

Komali Restaurant (Abraham Salum). Piloncillo and Ancho-Chile Braised Pork Jowl Tostada with Jicama Cilantro Salad

Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek (Bruno Davaillon). Foie Gras Doughnut Hole, Smoked Sea Salt, Fig and Aged Balsamic

Mi Piaci (Ross Demers). Coriander Crusted Colorado Lamb with Caramelized Artichokes and Braised Kale

Nana at the Hilton Anatole (Anthony Bombaci). Scallop Ceviche with Cilantro Sorbet and Avocado

Nick and Sam's Steakhouse (Samir Dhurandhar). Cantonese Shrimp

Opio Restaurant at Hilton Park Cities (Billy Webb). Pot Roast with Winter Vegetables

Pyramid Restaurant and Bar (André Natera). Thai Pork Dumplings with Lemongrass and Thai Basil

Pyramid Restaurant and Bar (André Natera). Crème brûlée.

Sevy's Grill (Jim Severson). Seared Jumbo "Day Boat" Scallops, Creamy Leek Orzo and Truffle Lemon Butter

Shinsei (Jason Czaja). Honey Hoisin Steamed Buns

Suze (Gilbert Garza). Seared Yellow Fin Tuna with Soy, Wasabi, Sesame and Jalapeno

Whiskey Cake (T.J. Lengnick). Bourbon-Glazed Pork Belly "BLT" on Brioche with Tomato-Chili Marmalade

The five-course, wine pairing menu is priced at $95 per person, excluding tax and gratuity. Space is limited and reservations are required.
Five Sixty by Wolfgang Puck
Reunion Tower
300 Reunion Boulevard

214.741.5560
Friday, November 18th
Seating begins at 5:30pm
Reservations required

Tom Spicer.

This dinner event may be too groovy for words, but I’ll give it a shot. Our favorite forager Tom “Spiceman” Spicer is teaming up with Chef David Anthony Temple (aka underground chefDAT) and Artizone.com to present “Dinner in the Garden.” The event, benefitting the Family Place, takes place on Sunday, October 30 at 5PM. The food, paired with wine, will come from Artizone supported local farms and vendors or, if you speak DATspice: “Chef DAT will compose a one of a kind dinner concerto in 5 movements, to be performed in Spiceman’s urban garden with an orchestra of wines to match.” Oh, yeah. Get down on it for $100 per person. Tickets here . Phone answered here: 214-325-4642.

BYOA

Lucia's Porchetta

Monday afternoon Plate Magazine, a chef and restaurant publication out of Chicago, brought a group of local chefs, and a few writers, together for a lunch at Lucia in Oak Cliff honoring the beloved pig and featuring products from Italy, including Speck ham, Asiago cheese and wine from Alto Aldige.  

The room was buzzing as Cocchi Americano Cocktails were poured for the group as they gathered.  A refreshing mix of Cocchi Americano, an herb and citrus infused Muscato, with soda and orange rind– a perfect aperitif. Some of the invited chefs included Taco and Dunia Borga from La Duni, Scott Gottlich (Bijoux, Second Floor), Teech (Tei-An), Jill Bergus (Lockhart Smokehouse), and Dude, Sweet Dude’s Katherine Clappner.

Lucia Salumi

The idea behind the lunch was to introduce chefs to these great Italian products, trying them over lunch, as well as give them an opportunity to sit back and enjoy a great meal.  Quite the lunch to start a work week.

Once seated, happy chefs enjoyed Cantina Terlano Pinto Bianco with plates of  salumi and crostini, including heavenly Eggplant Asiago, N’duja, Chicken Liver, Prosciutto Piccolo, Black Pepper Salame and Soppressata.

Eggplant Asiago, N'duja and Chicken Liver Crostini

Spaghetti with Spicy Tripe Stew, Speck and Asiago

Arugula, Fennel and Red Onion Salad with Testa Fritta

Chef/Owner David Uygur of Lucia

Spaghetti with Spicy Tripe Stew, Speck and a perfect egg followed as the second course, along with house made bread for dipping into the yolk.

A main course of Porchetta with a fennel, arugula and red onion followed, paired with a fruit forward J. Hofstatter Pinto Nero Mevzan.

Sanguinaccio or pig’s blood pudding ended the meal, with a silky texture and a taste just like rich and creamy chocolate pudding.

Sanguinaccio with Candied Orange and Cocoa Nibs

Chef Nick Stellino (photo by Brooklynne Peters)

Contributor Brooklynne Peters attended chef Nick Stellino’s cooking class at Abacus yesterday and files this report:

According to chef Nick Stellino, star of Nick Stellino Cooking with Friends, Cucina Amore I, II and III, Nick Stellino’s Family Kitchen I, II, III, IV and V, and the PBS specials Nick Stellino’s Dinner Party, Nick Stellino: Food, Love & Family, and Nick Stellino Cooking With Friends, the art of cooking is likened to knowing “what it’s like to stop the hands of time the moment your lips touch hers.” Catch phrases like this, in addition to his cooking, are what captivated Stellino’s Dallas audience Saturday morning at the cooking class he hosted at Abacus.

Stellino, a native Sicilian, led the class through some of his signature recipes, including garlic and oil pasta and clams with sausage and tomatoes. When Stellino wasn’t impressing the crowd with his dishes, he was entertaining them with anecdotes, jokes, and his theories about food.

jump for more…

Tuna tartare with grilled toast (photo by Brooklynne Peters)

“Notice the way I add the salt,” Stellino said at one point during the presentation, dramatically holding a pinch of salt high above the pot before sprinkling it in. “It means nothing, but it looks good on national television.”

Arugula, romaine, and radicchio salad with glazed pine nuts, prosciutto chips, and gorgonzola (photo by Brooklynne Peters)

The ardent group of Dallasites who signed up for the class to learn more about cooking pasta got the unexpected benefit of entertainment on the side.

“I think the people did not expect to have the personal interaction,” said Stellino. “I like to create relationships. It was very easy for me to walk around the tables and [make them] feel as if they’d just come to my house for dinner.”

Pasta Aglio Olio e Peperoncino (photo by Brooklynne Peters)

It goes without saying that Stellino is a master of his craft. His spaghetti was light and flavorful, and he made use of all of the bells & whistles in Abacus instructional space, but Stellino divulged that his mother, who works with a dull knife and old pots and pans, still “kicks his ass.”

Clams with sausage & tomatoes (photo by Brooklynne Peters)

Catch Stellino’s upcoming project on PBS next year, a one-man cooking show that takes him back to his roots. He plans to show the evolution of several dishes, talking to farmers and artisans along the way.

Cookies and berries for dessert (photo by Brooklynne Peters)

Winemakers talked guests through the courses. (photo by Brooklynne Peters)

Contributor Brooklynne Peters fills us in on what it was like to be a guest at NOSH’s Sassicaia wine dinner last night:

It was an evening of origins at NOSH Euro Bistro last night. The popular Oak Lawn restaurant hosted an exclusive five-course wine dinner, featuring Italian Sassicaia wines. Third-generation Italian family members were on hand to explain, in the charm of English spoken with a native Italian accent, the history and success of the winery.

Seats at the table went for $199; this writer (who was a guest at the event) was curious to see whether or not the evening would live up to the price tag.

Jump for pics…

Butter-poached Maine lobster with rabbit confit, baby shitakes, and lobster jus paired with Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo Toscana, IGT 2008(left); chocolate ganache tart with candied pistachios, EVOO, and flake salt paired with Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno Toscana, IGT 2009. (photos by Brooklynne Peters)

The restaurant was set up with labeled community tables; get ready to dine with five of your new best friends. The servers burst into action at 7 pm, with dozens working their magic on the tables and making plates and glasses disappear the moment they were empty. (Note to management: even though most of the dishes took only took three bites to get through, the efficiency of the servers caused the meal to feel a bit rushed at times.)

But folks were not there to critique service; they were there to listen to the third-generation wine makers talk about the history of their wine, some of which their ancestors reserved for up to 30 years before releasing to the public. We tasted the gamut of their selection, from adolescent wines that were more fruit-forward to more mature vintages.

The crowd favorite, goat cheese, and arugula gnocchi with braised pork belly served with Bodega Chacra "Barda" Pinot Noir 2010 (left); olive oil braised halibut with roblochon potatoes, pistachios, and Meyer lemon paired with a glass of pinot grigio, Friuli Grave DOC 2010. (photos by Brooklynne Peters)

“Listening to the wine-makers, people that are in this business, is just absolutely fascinating,” said guest Daniel Ryan. “The stories behind these vineyards and everything that goes into it – absolutely amazing.”

Naturally, chefs Avner Samuel and Jon Stevens of NOSH didn’t disappoint with their five-course meal.

“[This is the] best evening I’ve had in two years in any restaurant anywhere,” said guest Harold Nix. Nix has been following chef Samuel since he was chef at The Mansion on Turtle Creek, and said he’s been pleased with his progress. “He’s constantly experimenting, constantly changing, constantly looking for the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. Avner is the best.”

(photo by Brooklynne Peters)

Each meal was delectable in its own right, but the standouts were the braised pork belly, which fell apart on the fork, and the chocolate ganache tart with sea salt. The pork belly was perfectly crispy on the outside, but remained juicy and soft on the inside. The tart’s salty edge paired perfectly with the outstanding Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno Toscana, IGT 2009, a big, dark wine that could stand on its own.

Even with the speech making, the evening wrapped by 9 pm. Several guests walked out having purchased several boxes of wine, and having found a handful of new friends to share it with.

“We are so excited to have Chef Ward with us again this year,” say John and Susie McQuade, GALT co-founders. “The proceeds from the cooking demonstration will help provide for the growing needs of GALT and the growing number of greyhounds we currently have in foster care.”

Monday, August 29th Marquee Grill will kick off their monthly supper club dinners with a tribute to the ubiquitous Hatch chile.  This time of year everything seems to be about this well loved pepper and Executive Chef, Trey Wilcox and Executive Bar Manager, Mixologist Jason Kosmas have created a pairing dinner designed to excite the palate with unique combos over a four course dinner for $95 per person.  Reservations required – 214-522-6035.
Here is the menu:

Hatch Chili Dinner Menu

Welcome Cocktail – Matador Dulce Vida tequila, cucumber juice, roasted mild hatch chili and pineapple purée with hot hatch chili oil.

1st Course
Compressed Melons and Poached Lobster, Hatch Chili, Avocado, Crispy Taro Root Paired with Mohua Sauvignon Blanc

2nd Course
Grilled Sockeye Salmon, Hatch Chili-Jack Cheese Grits, Tequila Lime Sauce Paired with Laetitia Pinot Noir

3rd Course
Kobe Beef Cheeks, Green Chili-Bacon Potatoes, Baby Beet – Hatch Chili Chimichurri Paired with Titus Cabernet Sauvignon

4th Course
Hatch Chili Citrus Panna Cotta, Grilled Pineapple, Cilantro Gel, Plantains Paired with Casa Dragones-super premium sipping tequila

Also on Monday night, Sevy’s Grill welcomes a Napa Valley Star.  Robin Lail of Lail Vineyards will be in town to celebrate a four course dinner expertly prepared by Chef Jim Severson and his team at Sevy’s.  I love Lail wine, her Sauvignon Blanc is one of the best I have tasted.  Guests will have an opportunity to taste two of her award winning Sauvignon Blancs, including the Georgia which Robert Parker called the best Sauvignon Blanc to come out of Napa, as well as a few of her red varietals.  Cost is $85 per person.  Reservations required – 214-265-7389.  Here is the menu:

RECEPTION
Griddled Proscuitto Wrapped Polenta
Blueprint Sauvignon Blanc, 2009, Napa

FIRST COURSE
Crab and Corn Tamale Tart with Black Bean and Red Pepper Streaks

Georgia Sauvignon Blanc, 2009, Napa

SECOND COURSE
Smoked Pheasant Cannelloni with Wild Mushrooms, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Leeks and Truffle Shallot Cream
Blueprint Cabernet, 2007, Napa

THIRD COURSE
Strube Ranch Kobe Short Ribs, “Loaded” Baked Potatoes, Roasted Broccoli and Red Wine Reduction
J. Daniel Cuvee, 2007, Napa

FOURTH COURSE
Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream Cake
Elio Perrone, Bigaro, 2010

Wednesday, August 31st head to Samar by Stephan Pyles for their tribute dinner to the luscious, beautiful tomato.  Is there anything better in the summer time than ripe, juicy tomatoes?  I think not, and it seems Chefs Stephan Pyles and Jon Thompson agree.  For $35 per person/$55 with wine pairings guests will enjoy Andelusia Gazpacho; Tomato, Watermelon and Valdeon Salad; and Mangalista Pork with Tomato Sofrito and Grilled Leeks.  There will even be a few Spanish Flamenco dancers to spice up the evening.

Also on Wednesday Maguire’s will host a “Wine Down Summer” dinner with C.S.W. Eric Swindel of Serendipity Wine Imports featuring dishes like Oyster Rockefeller Soup with crispy oysters and fresh spinach paired with Jules Taylor Sauvignon Blanc; Pan Seared Sea Bass with Sorelle per Sempre Un-Oaked Chardonnay; and Pappardelle Bolognese with Blue Rock Cabernet Sauvignon. Cost is $69 per person, reservations required – 972-818-0068.

Friday September 9th Pappas Bros. Steakhouse hosts their “Proud to be an American” wine tasting featuring over a dozen wines all made in the USA, and paired with select Chef Selection of Seasonal Hors d’Oeuvres.
Wines include:
Gruet Blanc de Noirs, New Mexico NV; 

Dr. Konstantin Frank Gruner Veltliner, Finger Lakes, NY 2010;  

Boudreaux Riesling, Columbia Valley, WA  2010; 

 Barboursville Viognier, VA  2009;

 Arizona Stronghold, “Tazi” white blend, AZ  2010

;  Sharpe Hill “Ballet of Angels” white blend, Southeastern New England  2009; 

 Salmon Run Pinot Noir, Dr Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes, NY  2008

;  Fall Creek “Meritus”, TX 2006
; Sandstone Cellars VII, Touriga, TX 2009;  

Evening Land Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Eola Hills, OR  2009;  

Barboursville Cabernet Franc, VA  2008;  

Owen Roe, “Ex Umbris” Syrah, Columbia Valley, WA 2008; 

Barboursville “Octagon”, VA 2006

; Dickson, Quinta la Cruz, LD3 Ranch, Red Dessert Wine, TX 2008
Tickets are $45 each, reservations required – 214-366-2000

Though a little ahead of time, September 19th the lovely and talented Janet Viader, daughter of Viader owner Delia Viader known for making stunning Napa Valley red varietals, and highlighting Cabernet Franc, in her picturesque Howell Mountain winery will be in Dallas for tastings at select Sigel’s locations, and a dinner at Grace in Fort Worth on the 20th.  She will be pouring an array of Viader wine, including:
2010 DARE by Viader dry Rose
2008 DARE by Viader Cabernet Franc
2006 DARE by Viader Cabernet Sauvignon
2006 Viader Syrah
2006 Viader Proprietary Blend
I was just with Janet up on Howell Mountain and tasted through these wines.  Each is a beautiful expression of rich fruit grown in volcanic Howell Mountain soil, with a delicate touch and refined elegance this family run winery puts into each bottle.  For reservations to the dinner call – 817-877-3388

Chef Blythe Beck wants to school you.

Even thought it’ll probably be hot until Halloween, that doesn’t mean you can’t fantasize about the fall. What better way to spend an autumn afternoon than whipping up culinary treats with sassy-pants chef Blythe Beck of Central 214? Throughout the coming year, Chef Beck will be hosting groups of 25 for instruction and collaboration on a variety of fall dishes, starting with a football-themed class on Saturday, Sept. 17 from 2 to 4 pm..
Each monthly class will feature a three-course meal and specially selected wine pairings. Chef Beck promises you’ll “leave with warm memories, a full stomach, and goodie bag of recipes and treats.”

Here’s the schedule so far:

• Sept. 17: Fall Football-themed feast
• Oct. 15: TBA
• Nov. 19: TBA

Price is $125 per person. Complimentary valet parking provided.

Check the Central 214 website for class schedule and menus. For reservations, call 214-520-2865 or e-mail Karen.Pond@Central214.com

Each course will be paired with a beer selection from her prized cellar and will include:

jump for the menu…

First course:

Pate de canard and chicharrones de pato (duck pate with crispy duck pork rinds) paired with Transatlantique Kreik, a spontaneously fermented Lambic ale made with Polish cherries

Second course:

Roasted beet salad with an almond gazpacho and white balsamic syrup, served alongside Biere de Mars

Third course:

Breast of Guinea fowl with curried potatoes, arugula puree, and dried mango chutney paired with Super Cru

Fourth course:

Wild California Sturgeon filet with tempura pineapple and a “cherry coke” glaze, served with Dunkel-weiss, a “grand cru dunkel-weiss”

Fifth course:

Pork belly confit with Cannellini beans and a rosemary pesto with roasted grape marmalade served with La Folie

Dessert

Sticky bun bread pudding served with an Abbey Grand Cru.

Tickets for the event are $85, which includes tax and gratuity, and can be purchased by calling 214-628-7900. Tickets are limited, and reservations are required.