UPDATE: Monica is on her way to Houston. I got lucky when she answered her cell phone. “This [move] has been a real struggle for me,””Greene said. I’ve always been committed to urban development. I believe in Dallas but unfortunately the area [Deep Ellum] has taken a long time to develop. It’s time for me to expand and open my doors to a larger audience.”

I say, you go girl. It’s a great move. She has been in, what I would call, an abusive relationship with Deep Ellum for a long time. It’s time she made a fresh start. That girl has some balls. Oh, wait. Nevermind.

May 18, 2012

Dear Dallas,

Years ago, I read in “Popular Science” that it takes seven years for a person’s cells to replenish. Maybe this is true for humans, but it has taken twenty years at Monica’s Aca y Alla for that cycle to occur.  Monica’s Aca y Alla, with some other creative and wonderful entrepreneurs, helped put Deep Ellum on the map.  But today Deep Ellum is paying the price of Dallas growth within the Downtown area, Bishop Arts District, Uptown and other business districts.  Deep Ellum is going through its own revitalization; old buildings are being redone, DART stations are now open and someday there will be a new world in Deep Ellum. I hope that new world is a good. I expect to continue to be a part of Deep Ellum through my support of whatever venture my ex-partners decide to re-open in the Aca y Alla space.

Indeed, Monica’s Aca y Alla is evolving and changing to Monica’s and the ME Lounge and we will be moving to new digs.  We look forward to becoming a new fixture for the Cedar Springs and Oak Lawn area. We are excited to begin a new partnership with the Crosland Group and the Axiom Group at the beautiful ilume ®  building.  Hector Hernandez will be leading the charge as the Chef for this new concept. Together, we have a vision that will continue to create reasons for guests to eat our unique – yet traditional – style of food, enjoy new menu recipes that will include some of the real Mexican-style of food that was destined for Tajin.

Reality has shown me that with the intense competition in the Mexican food segment, the challenge of finding new ways to attract (and to keep) customers grows. Yes, the new Monica’s together with ME lounge will be fast paced, inventive, exciting, and it will epitomize a new style of Mexican food that I prefer to not call Tex-Mex, but “Nueva Cocina.”

I work, I play, I live and I will always love Deep Ellum. Monica’s had a very successful twenty years of restaurant operation in this historic district.  I am grateful, and would like to thank all Dallasites for their kind and generous support over the years.  We hope you will join us over the next few weeks at Monica’s Aca y Alla to say your good-bye’s and share with us your favorite stories from the past 20 years.  Then, I look forward to sharing with you my vision of the future at Monica’s in the ilume ®.  Until then…

Respectfully,
Monica Greene

The Avner Samuel; The Bailey. En fuego.

Whirling dervish chef Avner Samuel and his sidekick chef Jon Stevens are ready to open Snack, their “street-food-inspired-low price-points-small-plates-daily-chalkboard-special restaurant on Henderson in the space formerly known as Horne & Dekker. (Whew!) There will be three bar areas: one with cocktails, wine and beer; the second is a raw bar, but also includes a charcuterie element and hot small plates; the third, features a large wood-burning oven for made-to-order flatbreads and distinct hot dishes. (Whew!) Listen up:

From the age-old market-squares and bazaars to today’s street food vendors, SNACK is the creation of a street-to-table inspired menu. The menu includes dinner items such as short rib tacos with pineapple habanero and cilantro crema ($8), pork shumai dumplings ($9), chicken shawarmas with cucumber tahini and pickled onion ($8), and smoked oysters escabeche served with wood oven toasted bread ($7).  The brunch menu features items from a pan-fried egg sandwich with Serrano ham and avocado ($13), to a charcuterie flatbread with pan-fried egg, arugula and herbs ($14); and “street tacos” a la carte with a small assortment of sweeter entrees, like coconut griddle cakes ($11), to choose from.

Bizarre is right! Let’s see, Samuel-Stevens now oversee two locations of Nosh Euro Bistro, Snack, the transition of Bailey’s Prime Plus from steak joint to a chef-driven kitchen, and the addition of the lavish Aurora Room to BPP.  My guess is Samuel and Stevens already have their paws on the menu at The Chesterfield. What? You hear there will be more Nosh Euro Bistros if this relationship lasts? Oh, glorious Dallas dining. Are you coming back to life or going crazy?

UPDATE: Snack will have it’s own valet parking.

I just spoke with co-owner Michael Martensen. Yes, McClelland is working on a restaurant in Brooklyn but Martensen is also in on the project. “We are working out the details but it looks like Kyle and I will both go up there and help it open,”  Martensen said. “It’s more or less a two-week venture. We are rocking and rolling over here. We just hired a new bartender, Aleeza Gordon, from NYC. She worked under David Chang.” So, there you have it. For now.

Bring it! Let's get this city turned around! (image swiped from ABC)

Dear Mark,

I am addicted to Shark Tank. And because I am too lazy to jump through the hoops to get on the show and present my idea, I’m using the power of my pudgy fingers to reach you. Let’s pick and roll:

I walk on the set of Shark Tank. “Daymond John, you are so out,” I say. “Barbara, if I wanted to sell my cellulite-reducing sous-vide hot dog you’d be my best friend, but I’m keeping it to myself. You’re out.”

I watch the other sharks glance around, really scared at this point, and go for the kill. “Kevin, don’t even open that ugly mouth. You’re out. Robert, you can buy me dinner after the show but, for now, you are dead to me.”

Cameras swing: Close-up of Cuban. Music swells.

Mark. We live in the same city. We love the same teams. More importantly, we eat in the same restaurants. Last night, our city’s finest chef, Bruno Davaillon of the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek, lost Best Chef in the Southwest at the James Beard Awards in New York City to a young chef in Austin who appeared on Top Chef. It has been 18 years since a Dallas chef won this title. We need a local version of Shark Tank geared towards Dallas restaurateurs. That way, you and I can work together to tighten up our game and turn it around. We have the talent, we need the exposure. And that exposure shouldn’t have to come from the Food Network or Bravo.

I propose we put together a panel of experts and ask  restaurateurs to pitch their ideas BEFORE they decide to sink their life savings into an upscale seafood and sushi restaurant in a bad location. Let’s kick the steak house wannabes to Fort Worth. Mark, I’m asking you to invest whatever it takes to help us bring the talent of the Dallas restaurant community to the international scene. In exchange, I offer you fifty percent of my idea. Oh, and you can keep the Mavs.

Looking forward to hearing from you,

Nancy

P.S. If this helps illustrate my talent: I promoted women’s basketball in Dallas before the Mavericks were a thought in your brain. Just ask Nancy Lieberman.

The Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek's chef Bruno Davaillon and his station, which had my favorite item, smoked hummus. Photos by David Higbee

Friday night’s soirée, TACA Lexus Party on the Green, took place on the lawn at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek.  There were cars up for winning, a cork pull, fabulous trips and dinners in the silent auction, and food. Oh, so much food. More than 30 chefs gathered in the courtyard to offer up some of their best fare. And it was all going really well, too, that is until Mother Nature got involved. It was a bit muggy at first, then there were sprinkles—little ones that grew—and then it rained. Partygoers and chefs headed toward the doors of the Mansion. Within a couple minutes, Mansion employees walked around offering umbrellas to those who stayed outside. But within maybe 15 minutes, it all cleared up, people and chefs returned to their stations, and the party continued.

Stephanie Hutson, marketing manager at The Mansion, was in high spirits. She said the party hosted about 600 guests. But she was also looking forward to the weekend when she would travel with Mansion chef Bruno Davaillon to the James Beard awards. Davallion’s dish was one of the best of the night. He served pork belly with smoked hummus, pickled ramps and rhubarb. I’m a sucker for hummus. Friday night, I discovered I’m a sucker for smoked hummus. I also really enjoyed Tim Byres’ dry cured pork with purslane and cantaloupe. It was a light, fresh dish on a muggy evening.

Chef Serge Botelli from Rosewood Tucker’s Point in Bermuda got rave reviews for his ancho-cocoa rubbed grilled quail, which came with sage polenta, spiced capsicum jus, and fig syrup. Several people also directed us to the Crescent’s chef Juan Rosado. He was serving a short rib with crispy, sticky rice and pickled vegetables. The ribs (a little large for one bite, but still manageable) offered a bit of kick at the end, which paired nicely with the rice.

I have a very large sweet tooth, so I knew I couldn’t leave without trying the Mansion’s chef Nicolan Blouin’s Mansion Macaroon Mania, an assortment of macaroons, which were made in-house. My favorite was the peanut butter and jelly. I’m simple.

Jump for food shots.

Photos by David Higbee

BAILEY’S PRIME PLUS SHOWCASES NEW MENU ITEMS FROM

LOCAL CELEBRITY CHEFS AVNER SAMUEL AND JON STEVENS

New Menu Launches at Park Lane Location on May 10th

DALLAS, TX (May 3, 2012) – Bailey’s Prime Plus is proud to announce that the new menu, created by Avner Samuel and Jon Stevens, will launch on May 10th at The Shops at Park Lane location.  Guests will be able to experience a new chef-driven menu that also features signature prime steaks.  Sample menu items include:

Appetizers

Beef Carpaccio shaved pecorino, arugula & dijon-creme fraiche

Jonah Crab & Artichoke Fritters caper & pine nut aioli

Maine Lobster “Parfait” crushed avocado, tomato confit & caviar vinaigrette

Grilled Lamb Merguez Sausage charmoula, tomato confit & black olives

Salads

Roasted Red & Yellow Beets fennel, oranges, candied pecans, goat cheese & arugula

Baby Iceberg Wedges creamy blue, red grape tomatoes, croutons & red onion

Heirloom Tomatoes & Bococinno basil oil & balsamic reduction

Entrees

Roasted Alaskan Halibut cauliflower puree, spring vegetables & mandarin sauce

Herb Roasted Free Range Chicken creamy polenta, “Panzanella” salad & sherry gastrique

Bailey’s Half Pound Wagyu Burger two cheddars, full set & fries

Bailey’s Prime Cuts

Bailey’s features prime steaks and chops including a 6 and 10 oz. Beef Tenderloin, 18 oz. Kansas City Strip and 22 oz. Bone In Ribeye.

The crowd watching Jerrier's TV debut.

Jay Jerrier invited me (and about 400 other people) via Facebook to his restaurant, Cane Rosso, to watch his debut on Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives. Yesterday morning, I got a text message from Cane Rosso’s automated database system that Jerrier was going to host a watch party at 9PM.  I also noticed several tweets about the party. (There’s a reason he’s a nominee for best tweeter.)

My husband and I got there early. We knew the kitchen would close around 8:30PM so the staff could watch the show, and we assumed the 400 Facebook friends would be early, too. Turns out, we were a little too anxious. Around 7:30, we had no problem getting a seat. Jerrier was cooking up a storm. But around 8:30PM, he took a break and started walking around. At one point he looked out the window, said something about moving his car, and rushed out. Then we saw the food truck Enticed roll up. Next thing we know, SsahmBBQ pulled up along side.  Jerrier came in and announced that it was all on the house. People ran out to get their shaved ice and Korean tacos just in time to watch Jerrier’s performance on DDD.

I wish I could break down the segment for you, but I can’t. There was a lot of applauding and cheers, so I missed some of what was said. And while the crowd was frenzied, Jay stood stoically and watched the show. His wife and kids were there as well. I planned on rewatching the segment when I got home, but there was a little game on and it took precedence. But I can tell you this: the pizza looked amazing, the shots of the pasta made us wish we had ordered pasta, and Jerrier did a great job. Also, he’s a really great host. (He’s even been kind enough to allow people to order ranch dressing at his restaurant. Kinda.)

Chef Stephan Pyles has changed the way I view chicken.  You see, I have always been resistant to ordering an entrée of chicken from any high-end dining establishment. Call it poultry prejudice, but I have always sorta looked down on the lowly chicken when it competes with beef, lamb, pork, buffalo, lobster, or just about any number of more tantalizing menu options.  Don’t get me wrong, I love a nice piece of hot-n-juicy fried chicken from Bubba’s Cooks Country just as much as the next guy, but when I am sitting down at the table of a culinary mastermind, I am not particularly interested in what he or she is doing with chicken.

I don’t think I’m completely alone, am I? Mr. Anthony Bourdain once said, “Chicken is boring…chefs see it as a menu item for people who don’t know what they want to eat.”

So perhaps, when I got around to ordering chicken dishes at Stephan Pyles, I actually had no idea what I wanted to eat. Possibly. But in my ignorance, I found bliss, I found chicken which surpassed all my expectations and left me wondering why I had scorned my dear feathered friend for so long.

Mr. Pyle’s chicken offerings seems to change as the menu gets revamped periodically, but rest assured, you are in good hands whenever you go.  Currently, he is running a juicy roasted chicken that has been stuffed with garlic and sage, paired with tender brussel sprouts.  This is accompanied by dumplings of masa and ricotta, resting in a rich thigh confit and slightly sweet whipped camote.

Prior to this chicken rendition, Pyles served another knock-out dish (pictured above) of roasted chicken stuffed with ricotta accompanied by a mushroom-bacon ragout, topped with a slowly melting dollop of truffled honey crema, on a bed of liquid polenta.  Genius, folks.

Point is, chicken is not just for nuggets anymore.  In the hands of the right person, it is a bird that can really sing.  You may, however, keep the sweet-and-sour dipping sauce far away from me until further notice.

(clockwise from top) Chef Graham Dodds, oxtail ragout with crispy gnocchi, and a Scotch egg. (Photography by Kevin Marple)

This month Todd Johnson checks in with Graham Dodds, the newish executive chef at Central 214. His cooking is a far cry from his predecessor Blythe Beck. Have you tried the newish Central 214?

With his shaggy beard and dark painter’s cap, Graham Dodds looks out of place in Central 214, the restaurant he now helms at Hotel Palomar. It feels like a typical hotel restaurant—contrived modern decor, nondescript white leather banquettes, amber walls—so focus-grouped that it lacks any personality. And it’s not just the new chef’s appearance. Dodds’ culinary history is far too personal for such an impersonal space.

For the past three years, Dodds was the executive chef at Bolsa, the award-winning spot in the Bishop Arts District. He was in on the project from its inception, and his farm-to-fork approach—championing local and seasonal ingredients—was fresh at the time, not the marketing gimmick it has become. Dodds’ creations were simple, his flavors pure. Nothing was over-sauced or overwrought. Bolsa was an instant hit, and it established North Oak Cliff as a dining destination. D Magazine named it the 2009 restaurant of the year.

Click for more.

Pregnant With Paperwork: John Tesar has a lease.

John Tesar will not be stopped. The former (fill-in-the-blank) chef has inked a deal to take over the former La Tramontana space on Westchester in Preston Center. In January, Tesar announced he would be opening Spoon Bar & Kitchen in another space. However, the landlord killed the deal and Tesar moved his operation down the street.  Tesar has a signed lease, architect, and contractor and is scheduled to begin later this week.

Spoon will seat 68 and feature a 15-seat bar with a built-in raw bar and small plate menu. Tesar will be center stage in an open kitchen whipping up “three unique dining experiences”:  an a la carte menu that will change weekly; two nightly tasting menus (one from the land and the other from the sea); and a private chef’s table for 10. Cooking classes! Wine maker dinners! Eight seats almost in the kitchen! He plans to open fall 2012. Bring it, Tesar! Let’s Spoon! According to JT’s PR machine: Spoon is “ranked number seven on Eater National’s “25 Most Awaited Restaurant Openings of 2012.”

Paupiette of black bass, leeks, potatoes, and Rocca di Frassinello sauce.

Friday was an unusual evening at The Tower Club in downtown Dallas. The clubby dining room was turned into legendary New York restaurant Le Cirque for one evening. Guests dined on a five-course prix-fixe menu with choices from the original Le Cirque restaurant in New York City. Wines were selected by Marchesi Antinori and Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte. Dallas was one of just one of the ten cities ClubCorp chose to stage a pop-up Le Cirque.

Jump for photos, video, and a recap of the night.

Le Cirque Director, Marco Maccioni (son of founder Sirio Maccioni) chatted with guests

In order to ensure the authenticity of the evening, dining room manager Lisa Neel explained that Le Cirque’s executive chef, Olivier Reginensi, had arrived earlier in the week and spent two days preparing the meal. Le Cirque director Marco Maccioni was also in attendance and oversaw the whole production. Le Cirque also shipped their signature plates and vases down from New York City (the orange orchids were locally sourced). I had a chance to speak to Maccioni before service started. We chatted about such things as preparing classic French food in a restaurant with an Italian owner (legendary Sirio Maccioni) and expanding locations of Le Cirque as far afield as New Delhi, India.

Regulars at Le Cirque will recognize many of the dishes below as menu favorites there.

Authentic Le Cirque vase and plate.

Lobster Salad "Le Cirque"

Soft Poached Egg & Morels, Asparagus and Chervil

Signature sugar served with coffee

Craft's chilled soup (photos by Carol Shih)

Over 425 people turned out on a beautiful Thursday evening at “A Community Cooks” to support Paul Quinn College and its organic farm. Proceeds went towards enhancements to the farm. Along with providing an opportunity to feast between the budding sprouts of cantaloupe and sweet potatoes and listen to live music beneath the stars, ”A Community Cooks” celebrates the Farm’s accomplishments and raises resources to help expand the Farm’s ability to combat the food desert surrounding Paul Quinn College. The Farm brings healthy food to the neighborhood by donating a minimum of 10 percent of all items grown to those in need. Over a dozen top-line Dallas chefs cooked at food preparation stations situated either side of the garden. A band played on the stage at the front. In this video, the director of the faming program at the college explains the mission of the garden.

Jump to watch.

The Real Estate Council Foundation presented a check for $200,000 to the college for the garden capital improvements, the recently completed greenhouse and future enhancements. Other major sponsors of the garden were Trammell Crow, Pepsico and the Orix Foundation.

Participating chefs included Matte Balke from Bolsa Mercado, Tim Bevins from Craft, Chritie Butler from Perkins Management (the college caterer), Randall Copeland and Nathan Tate from Ava/Boulevardier, Central 214’s Graham Dodds, Brent Hammer from Hibiscus, Jeff Harris from Bolsa, Matt McCallister from FT33, Jason Maddy from Oak, Janice Provost from Parigi, Jon Stevens from Nosh/Snack and Tre Wilcox of Marquee.

Dr. Eduardo Sanchez, the former Commissioner of the Texas Department of State Health Services and current Vice President and Chief Medical Officer for Blue Cross and Blue Shield of Texas, was the guest speaker. Sanchez is a leader in the fight to reduce food deserts and also stresses the link between the lack of access to healthy, affordable foods and chronic diseases.

One future goal is very ambitious: The college is six miles from the nearest grocery store, despite being surrounded by neighborhoods. They want to establish a supermarket which would simultaneously sell the farm produce, provide jobs for the college’s students, links with the management classes through management roles in the store, and a retail food source for the community. That objective needs a big capital boost and venture capitalist-like savvy.

But, as you can tell from the photos below, both the farm and food were beautiful last night.

Chef Jason Maddy from the Oak (left); table decor (right)

A view of the farm

Paul Quinn College students help serve (left); Chef Matt McCallister pours strawberry gazpacho (right)

Farm Manager Andrea Bithell

Hibiscus' house cured bacon with Texas shiitake, ricotta, and wild onion salsa verde

Nosh's Moroccan kefta with red pepper vinaigrette (left); Marquee Grill's 7 spice tuna sashimi with cucumber mint gel tomato relish (right)