Mint chicken salad from The Mint. (Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

The popular International Grand Tasting at Savor Dallas 2012 took place on Saturday night at Irving Convention Center in Las Colinas. Organizers noted the move from Dallas to Irving was to make it easier for the residents of Fort Worth to attend.  Any worry that the change in venue would deter event patrons was quickly dispelled once the doors  swung open.  The place was packed, people shuffled around tightly, filling the venue as guests got the opportunity to hob-nob and rub elbows with some of the finest chefs in DFW.  The food and drink were, of course, spectacular as chefs were well prepared to excite and surprise their guests this year.

While nearly every dish our small group sampled was delightful, we thought we would pay homage to some of the most exciting and delicious dishes presented this year.  So here are (in no particular order) our picks of the Top 10 Best Bites of the 2012 Savor Dallas International Grand Tasting…

Gazpacho from Dee Lincoln' Bubble Bar. (Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

1. Kelly Hightower/Wild Salsa: Shrimp albondigas (spicy shrimp meatball) with ground pumpkin seed and onion, topped with cilantro and contija cheese.  Definitely the spiciest dish of the night, but perhaps, my personal favorite.

2. Juliard Ishizuka/ Dee Lincoln’s: Tomato gazpacho with goat cheese, watermelon, cured chorizo, and micro arugala.  Fine use of spice, temperature, and citrus, all together refreshing and unique.

3. Nick Amoriello/Meddlesome Moth: Shrimp and grits with pepperjack, jalapeno country gravy, and “tons of cream, tons of butter.” Hard to go wrong there.

The spicy star of The Meddlesome Moth's shrimp and grits.(Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

4. Cesar Gallegos/Bolla: Smoked scallop crudo with avocado mousse, candied pepitas, jicama hot sticks, and a shot of Patron tequila. Bold flavors, unique presentation. I hope we get to see a lot more “hot sticks” in the future.

Brisket Tacos from Neighborhood Services.(Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

5. Jeff Bekavac/ Neighborhood Services: Street tacos of smoky, sweet barbecue brisket with a blue cheese coleslaw.

The Whiskey Cake.(Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

6. TJ Lengnick/Whiskey Cake: The Whiskey Cake, no one will question Chef Lengnick’s decision to bring the restaurant’s signature dessert to the party, nor do I think anyone will question its inclusion on this list. This thing is blissful.

7. Nicky Phinyawatana/The Mint: Minced chicken salad with lime, cilantro, mint, red pepper, served on baby endive and bok choy.

8. Pat Robertson/Five Sixty: Kobe beef tataki with asparagus salad, jalapeno ponzu, cilantro and fried garlic.

9. Kay Agnew/Margaux’s Bridge Bistro: Duck and andouille sausage gumbo.

10. Eric Brandt/Bisto 31: Escargot and pork belly with parsley pesto, walnut, and creamy polenta.

Goat Cheese and Sweet Onion Jam from JJ&B.(Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)

Recognition should also be given to the always brilliant Scardello Cheese with their lovely offerings of royal cheddar, landaff, and bleu debasque; JJ&B (Jellies, Jams and Butters) for their splendid sweet onion jam; and Kaurina’s original “kulfi” or Indian ice cream bars in mango, cardamom cream, and pistachio almond. Seriously, people were freaking out about this ice cream, myself included, which can be ordered here from artizone.com.

Liberty burger (photo by Kevin Hunter Marple)

I know, I know, I know. I’ve been harping on you guys about voting for the Dallas’ best Food and Drinks for the past two weeks. I’m sure you’re tired of hearing me talk about it. Do me a favor and go vote right now because it’s the last day that our survey will be open. It’s Friday anyways, and we know you need a relaxing brain exercise to transition you into the weekend.

Tell us whose burger you most adore. Is it Jack Perkins’ fatty half-pounders or John Tesar’s Farmer burger with a fried duck egg and white Vermont cheese? Maybe you’re a sucker for Stackhouse’s double-loaded burger? Then vote here today. I promise I’ll stop bugging you about it starting…. now.

The pin you would've gotten had I been richer.

If you haven’t voted already, there are two days left for you to redeem your shame. The Readers’ Choice poll for Best Restaurant and Bars will be open today and tomorrow only. And then, my friends, that is it for 2012. The website will give you a big, fat error message and you’ll have to sit patiently until 2013 to make a difference in Dallas dining. For those of you who’ve already voted and continue to vote, I give you my most heartfelt thanks. If it were possible, I would send you all buttons you can pin to your suits that say, “I VOTED TODAY” in red, white, and blue lettering. Unfortunately, I am not made of paper and plastics.

Edit: The survey for Best Nightlife (where most of the bar voting is) will be coming soon, so hold on to your mouse clickers.

Lockhart's ribs (photo by Kevin Hunter Marple)

Imagine, for a minute, that you are the BBQ Snob leading Anthony Bourdain around the Big D. Where would you take him to get the best ‘cue? Who has the juiciest ribs and the best brisket? Honestly, which joint would change the No Reservations star’s opinion on the goodness of Texas barbeque?

We’re on Week Two of the Readers’ Choice poll for the Best Restaurants and Bars. Vote here once a day until March 23 to make Dallas a better restaurant city.

Coal Vines' pizza with sliced tomatoes, mozz, and parmesan (photography by Micah Nunley)

Good morning. Did you wake up, brush your teeth, and throw on some clothes? Most importantly, did you vote for your favorite pizza place for our Readers’ Choice poll yet? If you’re dazzled by Jay Jerrier’s ability to run Cane Rosso and tweet, like, every ten seconds, or in awe of Urban Crust’s Salvatore Gisellu and his dough-throwing skills, show your avid support for whoever you think makes the best slice in Dallas by voting here.

Get your voting game face on. And repeat once a day until March 25.

Start voting now.

When do you know that you have started to become a little too familiar with a restaurant? Well, if you pull into Kenny’s Burger Joint and your kid starts cheering, “Yay! Uncle Kenny.”  And no, I’m not related to Kenny Bowers…and my kid hardly even recognizes his grandparents.  Perhaps this familiarity could be seen as a problem in a city that offers so many burger options, but to be honest, its easy to get underwhelmed by the consistent stream of the newly minted burger joints.  Seems like there are about 2 new openings a week, la-dee-frickin-da. These days, I can count on one hand the number of places I will actually patronize to in order to obtain a truly exceptional burger.  Kenny’s has been doing things right since the beginning.

Kenny will tell you that he originally got such excellent feedback from his “Sterling Silver Burger” at Kenny’s Wood Fired Grill, that it was only natural to create a burger-centric restaurant.  And we are all blessed because of it.  Sure, it’s a bit of a pain for many to trek out to Frisco, but when quality and consistency intersect, the results can be something so enticing that nearly anyone can bust out of the north-of-635 bubble.

The first time I ever bit into a burger created by The Burger Meister himself, I knew it was the beginning of a long and fruitful relationship.  Not only has Kenny made me a happier person, he has made me insanely popular with my new friends who seem to always want recommendations for burgers.  Kenny’s has been one of my obvious recommendations for years.

What makes Kenny’s burgers special? Many things, I suppose, but that man just does the basics right.  The Sterling Silver brand beef is always incredibly juicy, like, army-of-napkins-to-clean-up-with juicy. Everything is fired over a wood-burning grill fueled by nothing but sweet Hickory.  The buns, a lovely Ciabatta, baked fresh daily by the local folks at La Spiga bakery, are soft, airy, but sufficiently sturdy to withstand said juices from creating a floppy, soggy mess.  My personal favorite, the Black & Blue, adds the expected bleu cheese and dressing, but also blends their beef with a touch of Cajun spices.  The finished product is a brilliant piece of work.  But honestly, it’s pretty hard to screw up an order at this place.

With most burgers in the $6-8 range, the KBJ truly is a gem among burgers joints.  I’ve paid triple that for far inferior burgers.  So buckle down and make the journey up to Frisco, it’s a lot less intimidating than you think.  I’ll even hold your hand as you cross the street if it helps.

It’s hard not to feel cooler when you are eating at SMOKE.  The place reeks of hip.  It’s the kind of place James Dean would meet Jay-Z for brunch if the opportunity presented itself.  But attitude can only go so far if you ain’t got the goods to back it up.  Luckily, as most people know, Tim Byres, owner of SMOKE, dishes up some truly big flavors, matched only by Byre’s apparent love for capitalization.

I’ve spent a good deal of time exploring the biscuit and gravy scene around town.  I’ve generally found that a few places can produce an excellent biscuit, but an exemplary and hearty gravy is really where most fall short, often producing a lifeless blend of flour and water which does more to detract from the biscuit than complement it.  However, the handmade biscuits with spicy sausage gravy from SMOKE, have managed to remain a frontrunner in my mind’s race for best B&G in the city.

Of course, this classic combination must start off with honorable biscuits, and SMOKE’s version rises to the test.  Each little biscuit arrives to your table sliced in half, with its soft and fluffy insides beckoning to meet your lips, and the outer crust remaining slightly crunchy yet still tender.  But it’s the gravy that sets these apart.  The creamy sausage gravy provides enough richness and spice to kick any biscuit into high gear.  It’s the kind of gravy that does not allow for any extra to just go lying around on the plate even after the biscuits are devoured, as you soon find yourself scouring the table for a scrap of toast, meat, or shoe leather to spoon up every last drop.  Lastly, the entire dish is laced with a drizzle of smokey, sweet barbecue sauce.  Only in Texas, right? And you should thank your lucky stars for it, folks.  It’s a dish that transforms the commonplace to the in-your-face, the perfect choice if you can ever convince yourself not to order the heavy-handed blueberry ricotta pancakes.

follow me for more @deepinthegut

“Hey Kath, would you whip me up some of your wonderful hot chocolate, pretty please?”

“It’s called drinking chocolate, you numb-skull, and what do I look like, your mom?”

“Well actually, if my mom had a few more tattoos…”

etc, etc…

Now, I don’t actually know if Katherine actually enjoys any of those things at all (aside from the chocolates bit), but I do know for sure, the woman makes the finest batch of hot cocoa you will ever let slide past your lips.  If your idea of hot chocolate is some brown junk you mix with tap water and microwave with rock hard mini marshmallows, you have a lot to learn, my friend.

The luscious elixir they call “drinking chocolate” at Dude, Sweet Chocolate is an altogether ethereal drinking experience.  A glorious brew of Valrhona cocoa, cane sugar, a touch of sea salt, and bits of a lustrous dark 72% chocolate. Never before have I tasted a chocolate drink as rich, as smooth, as densely chocolate as this wintertime treat concocted by Team Clapner. It’s so intensely chocolaty, that it’s probably the closest thing a person can get to simply downing a bowl of straight-up melted chocolate and still enjoy the experience.

Lazy drinkers can simply wander into Dude, Sweet and have the kind folks there mix you up your own mug to enjoy whilst wandering the streets of the Bishop Arts District.  You can also bring a package home with you to brew up at your own convenience.  Each batch is neatly packed with a bag of house-made vanilla bean marshmallows, just add whole milk, stir, sip and enjoy.

It’s getting colder outside, folks.  And if you remember anything about last winter, you might want to get out and try this stuff before the entire city of Dallas becomes an ice skating rink again.  You won’t be disappointed. Just tell Katherine that her best friend sent you.

(Want else to Eat Now? Follow me @deepinthegut)

You would think that frying up a tater tot would be something any idiot could do correctly.  Oil meets potato, done.  But unfortunately, this is not the case.  If I had a dollar for every time I’ve had to eat a mushy, stale, lifeless tater tot, I’d have enough to run for president (and I’d probably be more qualified because of it than other current presidential hopefuls).  So, if you’ve ever had a Napoleon-Dynamite-sized hankering for these golden nuggets of pleasure, I’ll make it simple for you, the best in the city can be found at the house that Jack built, our loveable, Maple and Motor.

Everyone knows that M&M puts out some killer burgers.  That’s a given.  But it’s really pretty difficult to go wrong at this place.  Practically everything I have eaten there is exceptional.  I’ve even licked the floors and it tasted good.  But the tater tots have become a guilty obsession of mine over the past few months, an obsession that is too delightful not to share.  These tots are not winning any prizes with the granola-loving, tree-hugger health food crowd, but this is Texas, people…and here we embrace obesity like a soft snuggly teddy bear.

The tots are definitely noteworthy when served up naked with a dash of Jack’s hand-picked ketchup. But these little friends of mine are taken new heights when layered in cheddar, jalapenos, chopped bacon and ranch.  Hot and crispy tots, perfectly crunchy outside, tender potato inside, bound together by a layer of melted golden cheese, little bits of crispy bacon with pickled jalapenos. Seriously, God bless America.

How is something so simple, so extraordinary? I have no idea, it is one of the many mysteries surrounding the world of Jack Perkins.  But the man is a freaking wizard in the kitchen, a bona fide Harry Potter of Hamburgers. Maybe you’ve been leery to venture into M&M because you’ve read some of the many rumors surrounding Jack…that he’ll eat your children, steal your wife, pour hot acid on your face, and break your dog’s leg, but the truth is, he is a good dude.  He’s been nothing but an old softie with me, and I’ve tried to piss him off just to see if the rumors were true. Countless weekends have I had to endure the pleading of my grease-loving wife, as she yearn for the sultry offerings of Maple and Motor.  And I’m not putting up a fight, I am also smitten.

Oh, and someone wanted to know about chili.  M&M has you covered.  Chili bacon cheese burger? Yes, please.  Finest I’ve ever had.  Or get a little crazy and throw some chili on those tots.  You won’t regret it (at least until you step on the scale).

It is no secret that with Good 2 Go, owners Jeana Johnson and Colleen O’ Hare have created a true Dallas dining destination.  Over time things have changed: a new larger location, more employees, even national recognition from the goons at Food Network.  But one thing remains the same, the food is a steady stream of excitement, craftsmanship, and flavor.  Truly, G2G is a place every Dallasite should be proud of.

The number of exceptional tacos is by no means small, but recently, I was able to add another to my OMG list.  The School Daze takes a delicately moist meatloaf and glazes it with Sriracha hot chili sauce.  The gorgeous meatloaf (which is not an oxymoron after all) rests on a bed of smashed red potatoes, topped with a sprinkle of blended cheeses, and nestled inside a soft flour tortilla.  Really, a stroke of genius inside a tortilla.  There is no doubt, that if schools actually started serving the School Daze at lunch, the drop-out rate in this city would shrink down to nothing.  

Keep your face glued to their Facebook page for their specials, as the endless taco magic never seems to run thin at Good 2 Go.   Eat one while your kids are suffering through school, it tastes even sweeter than usual.

The best bartender in Dallas. Photo by Courtney Egelston.

When D named this year’s best bartender in Dallas, we didn’t judge based on who could mix up a drink the fastest or who amazed us with Tom Cruise in Cocktail style tricks. We said Danny Versfelt was the best in town because he’s the kind of guy who will get to know you, beyond just what you’re drinking. Since Danny V. gets to know so many of you, we thought you ought to know some things about him, beyond just how well he prepares your drink.

Where you’ll find him
Al Biernat’s on Oak Lawn. He’ll be behind the bar every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday night starting at 4 p.m. and Wednesday during the day. Picture what you think a friendly Irish Catholic guy with some 25 years of Dallas bartending experience would look like and that’s him. Or just look at his photo.

His bartending mantra is…
That the bartender is the host of the party. Someone told it to him in his second year of bartending and it’s stuck in his head ever since. As the host, he’s got to make sure everyone feels welcome and satisfied. He circulates, making conversation and filling glasses, not for patrons, but for guests.

He’s got more to say.

What he’s going to say to you
He’ll talk a lot about his family—wife and two kids. If you’re looking for advice, his tends to be common sense with a sarcastic bite. When he said he likes to grill every Sunday with his family, I asked if he had any tips. He said, “Have a full tank of gas.” If you asked the best bartender in Dallas what every bartender needs, he’d probably tell you alcohol would be a good thing to start with. His sister (he’s the youngest of six) is a social worker, and they joke that they’re in the same business. Overall, he’s more of a listener. Like any good host, he believes in connecting different people at the party with group conversation.

Is there a song that’ll make him dance on the bar?
No. Maybe 10 years ago, but not now. He does enjoy “Workin’ for a Livin’” by Huey Lewis & the News, but he’s taking whatever the bar is giving.

What’s in his glass
Danny’s a family man, so he gets a tad uncomfortable with answering this question, but he classifies himself as a Jameson and Miller man. Sometimes when he’s grilling steak with his family, he’ll have a casual margarita (on the rocks, not frozen). If he’s out to dinner it’s a nice single malt to impress his wife.

Is there anything he can’t make?
Technically, no. (What kind of bartender would he be if he wasn’t serving what you wanted?) But for one regular, he “can’t” make a Brandy Alexander because he just doesn’t do it right. This is fine with Danny, who doesn’t love having to go back to the kitchen and grab the vanilla ice cream. Like many bartenders, he also doesn’t love making frozen drinks because it’s hard to get the consistency just right. He’ll make it for you anyway of course.

How he spends his spare time
He likes to ride his Harley-Davidson. This year Santa brought him and his son a CR450 and CR70 for dirt bike riding, which they do up around Kaufman. A customer loaned Danny his PR50 (a small dirt bike) for about six months so Danny’s son could try it out, which goes to show the kind of relationship he has with patrons.

How he got his start
About a quarter of a century ago Danny started bartending at the Prohibitioner, which he’s told used to be a true speak easy. Apparently when they knocked down a wall in the West End’s Stark Club, they found the place. He was there while it was like a New York style disco with big bands playing every night. He can’t hear very well because of that. Danny’s worked at a lot of places around town and likes the Loon, a cold, dark bar that serves an honest drink. But his first go around as a bartender came from his family’s annual Christmas Eve parties, where at 13 years old or so he was serving up vodka sonics for the neighbors.

What he thinks of being named Best Bartender
He’s flattered. And humble. And realizes that now the regulars that have been coming to him for years know his last name. Now what can he get you to drink?

The donut is America’s unsung hero.

For decades these delicacies have been fueling this nation’s finest law enforcement officers, and without them your streets would be overrun with all kinds of riffraff. Countless early morning board meetings have been brightened by the magical combination of sugar and fried dough. And where would Homer Simpson be without his signature pink icing with sprinkles? Not season 587, I assure you!

Despite their iconic nature, frankly speaking, truly exceptional donuts are not easy to find in Dallas.  I don’t think I am alone in my sentiments towards the Dallas donut scene.  While this city is surely not lacking in the sheer number of independent donut shops, it is eerie how incredibly similar and mundane most neighborhood shops have become.

But for the valiant donuteer, all hope is not lost.  I have scoured this land for three years searching for something extraordinary.  Of course, it would be unrealistic for a person to try every donut shop in this city (and still live to tell about it).  So I’ve hunted for suggestions from every corner I could think of (blogs, Chowhound, Yelp, Urban Spoon, magazines, newspapers, Twitter, Facebook, the cops at Waffle House) and ate my way through enough donut shops to personally ensure the future of Lipitor. Luckily, fantastic donuts do exist in this city.

Here I present to you, in no particular order, the five best places for donuts in and around Dallas.

1.   Mustang Donuts (Pictured above) One of my first weeks in Dallas, I was cruising down Hillcrest Avenue, for some reason, on a Saturday morning.  Suddenly I beheld a line stretching out the door of a humble donut shop and down the sidewalk. Needless to say, I hit the brakes, and partook of Mustang Donuts for the first time.  For years Mustang has been shamelessly assisting the SMU crowd achieve its “freshman 15.”  Some say a Mustang bear claw temporarily boosts your IQ at least 10 points, critical before taking that econ test you crammed all night for.   Don’t leave without sampling their legendary apple fritter.  Warm fried dough and crisp, sweet apple gently embrace under a silky sheet of translucent sugar glaze.  It’s all together ethereal.

The holes from Shin's

2.  Shin’s Donuts: From the outside, Shin’s looks no different from the countless other donut shops haunting every corner of this city.  Yet to say Shin’s is special is a terrible understatement.  These donuts are so light and airy, you actually weigh less after eating them.  The decadent maple bars and blueberry cake donuts are not to be missed, but it is the hot, fresh donut holes that propel this humble establishment from simple to sublime.  Owner Paul Shin will tell you he has a secret ingredient that gives these donuts their heavenly texture, but he’d sooner throw himself into a vat of scalding donut oil than share it.

3.     Jerry’s Donuts: When a place has been doing one thing for more than 41 years, and keeping a loyal following the entire time, you know they are doing things right.  The epitome of a “hidden gem,” Jerry’s has been humbly treating the small city of Farmers Branch to traditional-yet-terrific donuts.  While Jerry is no longer with us, the seasoned veterans running the shop haven’t let the standard of quality slip one whit.  Don’t leave without sampling the superb cinnamon/sugar-coated cake donut.  Jerry’s version manages to keep the inside light and moist while creating a tender crust on the outside, every nook sparkling with sugary sensuality.

Zeppole from Cane Rosso

4.     Zeppole from Cane Rosso: I realize it’s a bit of a stretch to include the much-celebrated Cane Rosso in a donut list, but I’m sure anyone who’s had the pleasure of having their deep-fried Italian donuts will not fault me for its inclusion.  The batter is laced with ricotta, giving them a unique texture which is soft yet gently crumbly.  “Melt-in-your mouth” may be cliché, but it is undeniably applicable.  Of course, a side of chocolate dipping sauce can never hurt either.

What hyppie dreams are made of

5.     Hypnotic Donuts: Owner James St. Peter has done more to spark the revolutionary fire behind the Dallas donut movement than any other man in this city.  Why, after just over a year of being in business, do flocks of devoted “hyppies” still drive hours every weekend for a taste of this madman’s fried creations?  Why do droves pack themselves into a tiny unmarked pizza shop at 7 a.m. on a weekend?  Because it’s a Hypnotic donut.  Once you know, you go.   If you haven’t had the Canadian Healthcare, you better clear up some space on your bucket list.

Pizza the Neapolitan way.

On a recent Saturday afternoon, I went to D Magazine’s Best of Big D pick for best pizza, Cane Rosso, to learn how to make an authentic Neapolitan pie.

The owner, Jay Jerrier, kindly welcomed me into his kitchen near the end of a busy lunch hour. Before my arrival, I expected to be clumsily cooking in the safety of a kitchen in a back room somewhere. This was not the case. The pizza oven is right in the middle of Cane Rosso, and I had no choice but to take the risk of embarrassing myself in front of the entire restaurant.

Jerrier began by asking me to scrub in at the sink, and then handed me a round ball of dough. He instructed me on the best way to knead the dough by using only three fingers, excluding the thumb because it is prone to tear the dough.

I already look nervous, don't I?

To stretch the dough out even further, Jerrier showed me how to use my fists in a circular motion.

Jerrier uses his fists to tame the dough.

Applying the tomato sauce and mozzarella.

Jerrier gave my semi-circular dough his approval and then began instructing me on the toppings. I took a scoop of their fresh, hand-crushed San Marzano tomato sauce and spread it around the middle of the pie, being careful to leave room for a crust. Then he told me to take a handful of mozzarella and sprinkle it evenly over the sauce. I finished it off with a dusting of basil, and it was time to put it in the oven.

Jerrier handed me the long placing peel and showed me the quick push-forward, pull-back motion to use to get the pizza off the counter. Next, I had to put my pizza into their famous oven imported from Italy. I was a little nervous when swinging the placing peel toward the oven in that tiny kitchen. My hands shook for fear of dropping the precious pizza or accidentally knocking the wind out of one of the pizza cooks quickly preparing pizzas and dodging out of my way. I placed it inside the extremely hot oven, where the temperature ranges from 800-900 degrees.

“In Naples, they would yell at you for it not being round,” Jerrier said as he traded the placing peel for a turning peel and showed me how to properly cook the pizza.

Jerrier makes some slight adjustments to my pizza placement during the minute or so it was in the oven.

Once the front edge of the pizza began to plump and show dark spots, he showed me how to use the turning peel to gently shift the uncooked side of the pizza toward the oak-burning fire.

About 60-75 seconds later, the pizza was cooked, and I carefully used the turning peel to swing it onto a plate. I felt so proud of my little pizza! Jerrier politely posed with me as I showed off a little bit, and then it was time to dig in and take a bite.

The Cane Rosso staff stands clear, legitimately concerned that I might deck them with the pizza peel.

After Jerrier sliced up the pizza, he pointed out that only half of my pizza was actually cooked properly. When he said this, I felt a little defeated. However, he didn’t let my hard work go unnoticed.

He pointed out on one of his approved slices the air pockets in the crust created by the moisture in the dough.

The color of the bottom of the slice shows it's cooked correctly (left); an air pocket created by moisture in the dough.

Also, he showed me the color on the bottom of the slice, and how that meant it was cooked correctly.

I patiently waited to take a bite of the beautiful and, in my humble opinion, flawless pizza, but the lessons didn’t stop there. He instructed me on how to eat a slice just like they would in Naples, by folding the point of the pizza to the middle and then folding it in half. He said it was called “a libretto” or “booklet” in Italian. I took my first bite and was overwhelmed with deliciousness. The simple tomato sauce was so bright and full of flavor. I really couldn’t believe that I actually made a true, somewhat round, partially cooked, authentic-ish Neapolitan pizza. Jerrier is an excellent teacher. I asked him when we were finished if he had any other professional culinary training.

Enjoying the fruits of my labor.

“I can’t cook anything but pizza,” Jerrier said. Having the ability to create a restaurant that produces about 500 fresh pizzas on a busy Saturday night is impressive. I can’t wait to return to Cane Rosso as a customer and fully appreciate the hard work and artistry that goes into each pizza they turn out.

Meredith Crawford is a D Magazine intern.

Matt has been charged with running “the left side of the menu,” and while he may not be the big man up front, sweating in front of the scorching pizza oven, he is no less working miracles in the back.

Read on! It only gets better from here.

Upon my last visit, I was fortunate enough to sample a few of the delightful specials of the day, each of which deserves mention here.  First, we were treated to the hand-made cannelloni, stuffed with tender braised pork and meatballs, a creamy white béchamel, and their house-made mozzarella.  The entire dish is smothered in a tangy tomato sugo, a touch of rapini, and parmesan and pecorino cheeses.  I don’t blame you if you just licked your computer screen.  This was an exquisite piece of work.  Sure, I felt like I was cheating on the pizza, but we all deserve a little naughty-naughty now and then.

Next, we were graced with their ingenious version of “biscuits and gravy.”  In this case, the “biscuit” is a polenta cake, blended with mascarpone and parmigiano, fried up to order.  The result is a lovely golden cake, creamy and soft in the center, slightly crunchy on the outside.  The polenta is topped with crispy pancetta and an over-easy egg, then smothered in creamy white gravy blended with Calabrian chiles.  It’s enough to make your grandma’s version of biscuits and gravy look like gruel.  Please, sir, I want some more.

(Rumor has it, the wizards in the kitchen are conjuring up a weekend brunch menu, which is sure to dazzle Big D once again. I’m giddy.)

So, if the DEA ever does determine that Cane Rosso’s pizza is actually too addicting to be legal, rest assured there is a whole other side to the menu sure to satisfy.  Enjoy it while you still can.