UPDATE: Monica is on her way to Houston. I got lucky when she answered her cell phone. “This [move] has been a real struggle for me,””Greene said. I’ve always been committed to urban development. I believe in Dallas but unfortunately the area [Deep Ellum] has taken a long time to develop. It’s time for me to expand and open my doors to a larger audience.”

I say, you go girl. It’s a great move. She has been in, what I would call, an abusive relationship with Deep Ellum for a long time. It’s time she made a fresh start. That girl has some balls. Oh, wait. Nevermind.

May 18, 2012

Dear Dallas,

Years ago, I read in “Popular Science” that it takes seven years for a person’s cells to replenish. Maybe this is true for humans, but it has taken twenty years at Monica’s Aca y Alla for that cycle to occur.  Monica’s Aca y Alla, with some other creative and wonderful entrepreneurs, helped put Deep Ellum on the map.  But today Deep Ellum is paying the price of Dallas growth within the Downtown area, Bishop Arts District, Uptown and other business districts.  Deep Ellum is going through its own revitalization; old buildings are being redone, DART stations are now open and someday there will be a new world in Deep Ellum. I hope that new world is a good. I expect to continue to be a part of Deep Ellum through my support of whatever venture my ex-partners decide to re-open in the Aca y Alla space.

Indeed, Monica’s Aca y Alla is evolving and changing to Monica’s and the ME Lounge and we will be moving to new digs.  We look forward to becoming a new fixture for the Cedar Springs and Oak Lawn area. We are excited to begin a new partnership with the Crosland Group and the Axiom Group at the beautiful ilume ®  building.  Hector Hernandez will be leading the charge as the Chef for this new concept. Together, we have a vision that will continue to create reasons for guests to eat our unique – yet traditional – style of food, enjoy new menu recipes that will include some of the real Mexican-style of food that was destined for Tajin.

Reality has shown me that with the intense competition in the Mexican food segment, the challenge of finding new ways to attract (and to keep) customers grows. Yes, the new Monica’s together with ME lounge will be fast paced, inventive, exciting, and it will epitomize a new style of Mexican food that I prefer to not call Tex-Mex, but “Nueva Cocina.”

I work, I play, I live and I will always love Deep Ellum. Monica’s had a very successful twenty years of restaurant operation in this historic district.  I am grateful, and would like to thank all Dallasites for their kind and generous support over the years.  We hope you will join us over the next few weeks at Monica’s Aca y Alla to say your good-bye’s and share with us your favorite stories from the past 20 years.  Then, I look forward to sharing with you my vision of the future at Monica’s in the ilume ®.  Until then…

Respectfully,
Monica Greene

Praram with shrimp

Thai-rrific was a North Dallas favorite until it moved to Oak Lawn last year. And since I live around there, I am sure glad it did.

Despite the Cedar Springs address, the restaurant fronts Throckmorton Street. Big windows provide a view of the well-lit dining room and its diners: concrete floor, tables topped with white paper over white clothes and black banquettes, two-tops and four-tops of boys from the hood drinking bottles of wine they brought in themselves.

We were seated at a half banquette/half table set up in a cozy corner and proceeded to fill our bellies.

We started with the pik gai yut, or stuffed wings. Our waitress said it was the house specialty. Essentially it was two large chicken sausages shaped like wings. What I mean by that is that ground chicken was mixed with cilantro, onions, rice, and lemongrass and kind of formed into wing shapes before being roasted and sliced and presented in a brown sauce. Lip-smacking good.

Pik gai yut with cilantro, onions, and lemongrass [left

Six fat shrimp sat atop our praram, lightly sauteed red and white cabbage and broccoli in a curry-peanut sauce. Of our three entrees, this was the one we ate the most of. There were no leftovers to take home.

There was also no coconut curry to choose from, so we went with a yellow curry dish called gang karee. Big hunks of white potato, thin-sliced carrots, and slivers of chicken swam in a flavorful yellow curry. Though we ordered all three entrees “medium heat,” this one seemed to have more heat than the others – enough to create a temporary ring of fire around my mouth.

Service was friendly and efficient, though our waitress kept stepping on my dining partner’s feet. Apparently they both wear giant shoes.

Various brightly colored cakes fill a dessert case by the door. And one many-layered cake, each layer a different color for a rainbow nod to the neighborhood, sat under a glass dome. We skipped the sweets, but that chocolate frosting sure did look good.

4000 Cedar Springs Road
Dallas, TX 75219
972-241-2412
Sun-Thu, 11 am-10 pm
Fri & Sat, 11 am-4 am

Deep Ellum Brewery has just released their first (only?) production of “Love Runs Deep” Cherry Chocolate Double Brown Stout (deets below). Think you’ll find it at Tom Thumb? Nope. Bolsa Mercado bought the entire batch. Each 22-ounce bottle is individually numbered and made with red tart and dark sweet cherries and Organic/Fair Trade cocoa nibs. Expect to find all 300 of them on the shelves of Bolsa Mercado during their next Open House on February 11.

If you can’t wait until the 11^th to get a food fix from The ‘Cado, head over on February 8. If you are lucky, you may be able to look past talented chef chefs Jeff Harris and Matt Balke and spot the rare, elusive chef Sharon Hage in the kitchen. She will be creating a “Take Home Dinner For Two.” Who knows, by then Bolsa Mercado may have Alan McClure creating Fudgesicles or Grant Achatz doing dishes. Could happen. Pigs fly in Oak Cliff.

CHERRY CHOCOLATE DOUBLE BROWN STOUT -

8% ABV 27 IBUs

Our logical offering for a passionate time of year.

Who says Brewers can’t pluck your heartstrings? We’ll play right to your heart (and

palette and belly) by taking our already smooth and rich Double Brown Stout and taking

out to a night on the town. By adding real Red Tart and Dark Sweet Cherries at the

beginning of fermentation and **(Organic/Fair Trade) cocoa nibs at the end of

conditioning, once a year we treat our Double Brown Stout lavishly. Don’t be a selfish

lover, share with this someone special.

Style: Cherry Chocolate Baltic Porter

Hops: US Goldings, Mt. Hood, US Northern Brewer, Summit

Malts: Pale Ale, Munich light, Brown, Munich Dark, Oats, Crystal Rye, Extra Dark

Crystal, Dehusked Chocolate

Yeast: California Lager

Other: Blackstrap Molasses, Red Tart & Dark Sweet Cherry Puree’, Cocoa Nibs

Packages: 50L, 1/6th bbl

Good wines gone bad.

Forgive me Master Sommeliers and wine collectors around the world, I have sinned. I am here to confess my deepest darkest wine secret: I improperly stored four bottles of fabulous wine. For nearly 35 years.

Look at the photos and weep with (for?) me. I recently uncovered these bottles in a box buried beneath a pile of old Christmas decorations in my garage. Yes, my garage, where it sat for close to 35 summers, winters, springs, and falls. I am a human species of Phylloxera.

I could have pulled another Billionaire’s Vinegar and called Sotheby’s and claimed the wine was given to me by Richard Nixon and I’ve kept it hidden in a bricked-up Paris cellar. Instead I’m posting pictures of my crime. Perhaps there are others who have committed the same dirty deed.

Full confession below.

Yes, $19.79 before my employee discount.

Self portrait.

I used to collect wine, especially French wine. Specifically those of Bordeaux. I worked at a wine bar in Dallas called La Cave and spent my off time learning about French wine. My former boss, François Chandou, still runs La Cave Warehouse.  He is my witness. I bought hundreds of bottles of French Bordeaux. I wore a laminated vintage chart around my neck and scoured wine shops and wine lists looking for the best.

Eventually, I drank it all. Well, except for these four bottles. Is there anything I can do? Do I even attempt to drink them? (Does anyone want to buy them?)

I would like to take this moment to apologize to Bacchus, Dionysos, the early colonists of Southern Gaul, the concept of terroir, Baron Philippe de Rothschild (and subsequent Barons), James Tidwell, and Drew Hendricks. My deepest regrets to the chateaus: Latour, Mouton-Rothchild, Margaux (oh, sweet Margaux), Haut-Brion, Petrus, Pomerol, St. Emilion, and d’Yquem. Sorrows to you dear Cabernet Savignon, Merlot, and Cab Franc grapes. You gave your lives only to sit in a bottle in a box underneath a pile of old Christmas decorations in my garage. I am unworthy of your grace.

There is about a half inch of sediment in the neck of this bottle.

Sorry lion-guarded fortresses of France.

This wine was my first true love. We sold it for $4 a glass at La Cave. At one point I owned two cases.

Heinous. Painful. Wrong.

Anywhoo, I’m digging away and get off task. Oh, look! I find a permit pulled for a restaurant at 624 642 W. Davis. I’m not telling you the name of the LLC because Teresa Gubbins will be all over it like hot on fried bubblegum. I contacted several HIGH PROFILE restaurant people in The OC for info. Oh yes, they all know who and what it is, but none of them are talking. Okay, guys. I’ll remember that the next time you send me a press release about your new bartender or your fall brunch menu. Hah! Two can play this game. Grrr.

Grass does not grow beneath Teresa Gubbins' shoes.

Leave it to Teresa “Gumshoe” Gubbins to find a snitch in Trader Joe’s camp. Since the grocery chain announced they were planning locations in Dallas last May, they have been quite secretive about their locations. According to TG, you can rule out the former location on Greenville Ave. Her Deep Throat coughs up three possible locations: Walnut Hill and Central, Knox Ave., and Fort Worth. All of the details are here.

There was a time when Trader Joe’s was cool and funky and carried stuff you couldn’t find elsewhere, but I think the company is now running on a tired image. In the 70s,  Two Buck Chuck played a significant role in nursing wine drinkers off the Spanada bottle but the last TBC I sampled burned the enamel off my teeth. So, Trader Joe’s? Yes or no? Why?

Hunky Town, Twin Pricks, Tooter’s, Pecker’s Hot Italian Sausage, Tube Steak Junction, Cake Balls to the Walls, Nuts and Butts, Quickies, Long Dong Silver, Tally Whacker’s, Love Mussels, Wee Willie’s, Twig and Berries.

Ladies, the floor is open.

Doug Brown is still the head chef in Dish’s kitchen and he has been busy making some changes. Brown and Dickey will debut a new menu which will be refreshed weekly. “One section of the menu will be unique to the week,” owner Tim McEneny said. “Our core items such as our roasted chicken and barbecued short ribs will remain.”

McEneny is also involved in the facelift taking place at Dakota’s. They are in the process of covering the patio and changing the menu. They roll out a new cocktail and wines-by-the-glass program on Monday.

I’m a regular reader of the Side Dish blog, and I wanted to let you know that I got word today that Hector’s on Henderson is closed. My wife’s birthday is next weekend, and we had a party scheduled for approximately 18 people, but I got a call from Hector himself this morning letting me know of the closure. He didn’t want our party showing up next week to find a locked door. I’ve been there several times over the years, and I think it speaks to his credit that he called me personally.

I hate it when bad things happen to good people. Hector has been, and I’m sure always will be, a good Samaritan in  the Dallas dining scene. Details to follow.

Statement from Kathy Jack, Owner of Jack’s Backyard

With four days’ notice from the property owner, Jack’s Backyard closed for business on Sunday, June 26. I want to tell my friends, family, Jack’s customers and investors that I am truly sorry that this has happened. My partner, Susie Buck, and I worked along with our staff to make this business work.

There is so much misinformation and so many rumors. Jack’s opened on Oct. 31, 2008.  I never paid myself a salary during the two and a half year run. We simply cut back and lived on what my partner earned at her other job.  Jack’s was a BIG place and we opened in a tough economy. Jack’s Backyard earned only enough money to keep the doors open.  All along there was a 10-year plan to repay the Jack’s investors and I truly believed that was possible.

We reorganized in December 2010 with the help of a creditors’ committee. We implemented new daily operating office procedures, a new accounting system, a new daily transaction system, developed a new filing system and cut expenses.  At the time of closure we were current on all employee, liquor, and sales taxes.  In addition, we were current on all bills, including rent post-reorganization.

I developed a plan with the head of the creditors’ committee to repay our back debts and start repaying investors but ultimately, we were not given that opportunity.

I have spent 34 years in the service industry and I have been raised in this community. It means a lot to me that people believe in and trust me. I am adamant about making things right. Jack’s was built to be a backyard big enough to hang out with all of your friends. That mission continues.

Thank you for your love and support.

Kathy Jack and Susie Buck

Once she gets the new BEE in her bonnet, Monica is going to open a ” true Mexico City-style full-service restaurant”  in an unfinished space at the ILUME building not just down from Dish. She is building the 3,500 square-foot restaurant “from the ground up.” She has changed the name from Distrito but hasn’t come up with a replacement.

Hmm. Maybe we could help her with that.

A little bit of Greenwich Village is headed to Dallas.

With our ferocious invasion of the In-N-Out’s double-doubles under control, we turn to face our next assault: conjugated linoleic acid from Murray’s Cheese on Bleecker Street in New York City.  No, we don’t need any rope, conjugated linoleic acid is a good thing. It is one of the healthy fats (love it!) found in cheese. There are many New Yorkers who think Murray’s Cheese shop is the best in New York. And, like so many New York businesses, Murray’s had humble ethnic start. From their website:

“Murray Greenberg was a Jewish Spanish civil war veteran and communist who opened a wholesale butter and egg shop a few doors up Cornelia street in 1940. The old timers tell me [current owner Rob Kaufelt] that even though he was an old leftie, he was still a street smart capitalist who used to buy cheese cheap and trim it and sell it. In the 70’s he sold the shop to his clerk Louis Tudda, an Italian immigrant from Calabria.” Grab a Kleenex and continue here. (I’d cast Dustin Hoffman as Murray and Helen Mirren as Paula Lambert in the movie War of the Cheeses.)

Fast forward to May 17, 2011. Murray’s has two locations in New York where they sell a gazillion cheeses. They have a books, cured meat, crackers, dried fruit and nuts, and an olive and antipasto bar. Phew!  And a serious online shopping site. However, you won’t need to order Murray’s cheese if you like Murray’s cheese because Murray’s cheese has made a deal with Kroger and soon their cheese will spread across North Texas. (They are already in Houston. What else would you expect from a communist cheese maker? No emails please.) It looks like a Kroger store in Irving (June-ish, not sure which location) will be the first outpost for Murray’s Cheese shop. I say shop because they are building little areas inside each Kroger to mimic the interior of the Greenwich Village store. (Twinwillow, I see a job opportunity in your future.) After that, it’s Katy bar the door– I hear the whole Upper East Side is relocating Frisco.

UPPITY DATE:

The first three shops to open in Dallas-Fort Worth are at the following Kroger locations:

-Irving  7505 N. MacArthur Blvd.  Irving, TX 75063 (Opening Date: 5/25/11)

-Dallas  5665 E. Mockingbird  Dallas, TX 75206 (Opening Date: 6/15/11)

-Fort Worth  3300 Texas Sage Trail Fort Worth, TX 76177 (Opening Date: 7/6/11)

More below.

Murray’s Cheese, the oldest cheese shop in New York City, is known for its huge selection of imported and domestic artisan cheeses and specialty foods.  Murray’s opened in 1940 in Greenwich Village as a neighborhood wholesaler of butter and eggs, and has since evolved into the country’s leading cheese destination. The company’s mission is to bring the best cheese selection to the United States and to educate customers about cheese.

Now, through an exclusive partnership with Kroger, Murray’s is opening specialty cheese shops within several stores in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. Dallas-Fort Worth is part of a multi-divisional partnership of 50 cut-and-wrap specialty cheese departments in Kroger stores nationwide. Currently, Murray’s Cheese shops can be found in Kroger stores in Cincinnati, Atlanta, Houston, Huntsville, AL, and Knoxville, TN.

The first three shops to open in Dallas-Fort Worth are at the following Kroger locations:

-Irving  7505 N. MacArthur Blvd.  Irving, TX 75063 (Opening Date: 5/25/11)

-Dallas  5665 E. Mockingbird  Dallas, TX 75206 (Opening Date: 6/15/11)

-Fort Worth  3300 Texas Sage Trail Fort Worth, TX 76177 (Opening Date: 7/6/11)

In addition to 175 types of cheese, the shops will feature over 300 specialty food items like cured meat, crackers, dried fruit and nuts and an olive and antipasto bar.  The shops in Kroger will look much like the Greenwich Village flagship store in New York City. Shoppers can try cheese before they buy it and learn from cheesemasters who have been trained by Murray’s.

What people are saying about Murray’s…

“The temple to cheese” says Martha Stewart Living

“One of America’s greatest cheese shops” says Food Network chef Emeril Lagasse

“The world’s best cheese shop” according to Forbes.com

My husband and I are going to England in May and would like suggestions on restaurants serving Italian, French, and Hong Kong-style Chinese. We will mostly be in London, but are also planning a trip to Bath.

I generally eat my way through Harrod’s. You must have a better plan.