D

Dining Trends for 2010: A Sarcastic Look at a Silly Report. “Zing” is in and WTF is Mood Food.

Each year, Joseph Baum & Michael Whiteman Co., a big-time restaurant consulting group in New York, releases their lists of foreseeable trends. It’s a fancy report that is meant to read like a technical survey, but, to me, it’s basically a round-up of what is going on now and a “prediction” that current big-city trends will spread. In short: it’s a lot of bull about pigs ears.
You can read the full report here. Below is a cheater’s sheet.

NEW PRIORITIES FOR BEATEN-UP CONSUMERS: “Too many restaurant and hotel execs are grappling with pre-recession consumer issues, while people today are expressing entirely new – and more complex — sets of concerns.” Yes, according to these guys, we (consumers) are “personal, emotional and ethical.” That throws me out of the equation, but for you this is very important. Are you familiar with your “hot buttons?” (Beat, beat.) “Hot buttons include: economic survival, reassurance, intimacy & friendship, feeding my knowledge, feeding my emotions, artisan, hand-made, neighborhood, local, authentic, real.” Cold, hard bitches need not apply to 2010. Look for this: “hotels and restaurants should be luring these hunkered down consumers from their psychological storm cellars (Cymbalta?) by replicating the “campfire experience” – building emotional ties and connecting to communities. OH GOODY, more S’MORES!

PUTTING FOCUS ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE MENU: Have you ever read about the psychology of menu writing? I’ll bet you didn’t know that the left side of the menu is reserved for “emotional resonance.” In case you don’t watch In Treatment, that translates into creative snacky things, small plates, food sized for one, two, or for a crowd. Sharing is the key because we need comfort and safety for intimacy and friendship. (Hmm, I usually feel safer when I get the whole cake.)

Jump for more joy! (more…)

Mini-Review: Texas de Brazil Express in Dallas

Bacon-wrapped organic chicken sandwich on ciabatta.

I just dropped into the newish Texas de Brazil Express in Preston Center and picked up a couple of sandwiches. It’s a create-your-own sandwich, salad, or rice bowl concept. I guess you could call it a mini-churrascaria: There are skewers of beef, chicken, lamb, pork, Brazilian sausage, and picanha (sirloin) sizzling over an open flame in the middle of the self-service line.

If you love Texas de Brazil, you’ll love the mini-TdB. It’s certainly a cheaper way to enjoy the familiar meats. It took me forever to make up my mind, but dozens of regulars moved past me and recited their orders like robots.

Jump for my love. (more…)

Mini-Review: Hoppin’ John at Peggy Sue Barbecue in Dallas

The first time I had a bowl of Hoppin’ John was a zillion years ago in South Carolina. Now I get my fix at Peggy Sue Barbecue. Say what you want about the ribs (love ‘em), brisket, and onion rings, but this dish, made with black-eyed peas, medium grained rice, bacon, diced onion and garlic, gringo peppers, and juicy smoke-flavored pulled pork and caramelized red onion is smashing. Simply smashing.

Dallas Observer 2009 Best of Dallas® Food List: What do You Think?

Please don’t sue me for using your cover art.

I’m stuck at home in my little glass house. I see a few pebbles on the floor and I think I will toss them.

I just scanned through the Dallas Observer’s 2009 Best of Dallas® Food list. It reminds me of that Who song. What is it, Kirk? Something about the new boss and the old boss? YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH! Bomp, bomp, bomp. YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!

Dave Fairies, I have a quick question: Does the Observer repeat “Bests” if, when the next year rolls around, no one else  fills the category as “Better®?” (That’s mine, dude.)  This is a serious question and I ask it because I have to deal with the beast of ‘Bests” and understand the difficulty at uncovering them. So, Mr. Fairies, do you roll over “Bests” from year to year by moving them into different categories or because they are the “Best” of their original category? Let’s go through the list together and see. Jump with me. It’s not far. (more…)

Don’t Cook Tonight: Pig Out With Us

See Evan Grant? In the photo, he is literally pigging out on Italian pork products in a small restaurant in San Gusme, Italy. Tonight, Mr. Grant will also be pigging out on Italian pork products and more at Nonna. Those pork products, along with the pici pasta and stuffed squash blossoms pictured below, inspired execuchef Julian Barsotti’s menu for tonight’s SideDish SupperClub at Nonna. A few people canceled this morning. If you’re in the mood for a first class Tuscan supper, join us. 214-521-1800.

Stuffed squash blossoms made by me and Karen. (She'll be there too!)

Pici pasta will be served! Great Scott!

I Want to Eat Spain in Spain

Chef Gina Stipo teaches Eric and A.W. how to make biscotti.

Almost two years ago, I took a group of friends to Italy to learn how to cook Italian food at Ecco La Cucina just outside of Siena. Yes, we learned how to cook, but, more importantly, we learned how to eat. We traveled to small pig farms, saffron fields, and other artisanal businesses. We all went into shock when we came back to Dallas and tried to find real Tuscan food. (Thus the inspiration for the menu of the SideDish Supper Club on Thursday. Join us!)

Anywhoo, now we want to eat our way across Spain. I’ve spent time in Barcelona but nowhere else. Anyone out there care to suggest an eating itinerary? Kent Rathbun took a group last spring and I looked at his itinerary, but I’d prefer to mix in smaller producers and restaurants with the obvious big deal spots. (Has anyone tried Rathbun’s new Spanish menu at Abacus?) Today is deadline day at the magazine, so you can expect me to be here on the blog doing what I do best.  And looking back at our Italy pictures. And planning another escape.

What is For Lunch Today?

Some people think my dog Lulu is hot.

I am starving, oddly, for a hot dog. There used to be a great place called Poochie’s on Lovers and Greenville. Then there was Big D Dog. Why are there no hot dog shops in Dallas? I want one right now. It would make us a world-class city for sure. (Couldn’t help it…)

State Fair of Texas: New Food Fight

The finalists for the Fifth Annual Big Tex Choice Awards were announced yesterday. A panel of three judges will decide Best Taste and Most Creative winners on Labor Day.

Perhaps we should have our own little voter’s poll below. Let’s Ranch It Up for these tasty tidbits. Or submit one of your own. Go crazy. Be creative–let’s try for 67 comments. K? Go.
Real Contestants:

Green Goblins – Cherry peppers are hollowed out, stuffed with spicy shredded chicken and guacamole, then battered and deep fried. Served three to a skewer and topped with queso.
Deep Fried Butter – 100% pure butter is whipped till light and fluffy, then specially sweetened with a choice of several flavors. The tantalizing mixture is surrounded by a special dough and quick fried. Served on a stick.
Twisted Yam on a Stick – A delicious, towering, spiral-cut sweet potato on a 13” skewer is fried to a delicate crispy texture, then gently rolled in butter and dusted with cinnamon and sugar.
Fernie’s Deep Fried Peaches & Cream – Sweet juicy peaches are coated in a delicious batter of cinnamon, ginger, coconut, graham cracker crumbs, eggs & milk, then deep fried to a crunchy golden brown on the outside, while luscious and sweet on the inside. Served on a plate drizzled with raspberry sauce and sprinkled with streusel topping & a dollop of whipped cream. A side of vanilla butter cream icing is provided for dipping.
Texas Fried Pecan Pie – A mini-pecan pie is battered and deep fried to a golden brown. Served drizzled with rich caramel sauce, then topped with whipping cream and chopped candied pecans.
Country Fried Pork Chips – Thin sliced pork loin is seasoned, surrounded by a tasty corn meal batter and deep fried. Served with sides of ketchup or cream gravy.
Sweet Jalapeno Corn Dog Shrimp – Shrimp on a stick is coated with a sweet and spicy corn meal batter, then deep fried to a golden brown and served with a spicy glaze.
Fried Peanut Butter Cup Macaroon – A peanut butter cup is wrapped inside a coconut macaroon fried and dusted with powdered sugar. Also available with a scoop of Blue Bell ice cream.

Will Central 214 Top Chef Blythe Beck Bottom Out on TV?

Is reality TV good for the career of a chef? I don’t watch enough to have an educated opinion but, from where I sit, it looks like more top chefs bottom out after their 15 minutes, or months, of fame. Casey who? Tre what? Lisa Garza is where? Dig what I’m shooting at you?

Next girl up is Central 214’s Blythe Beck. She will star in The Naughty Kitchen With Chef Blythe Beck on Oxygen. I’ve never really understood the naughty kitchen concept. So I checked the shows website. It says:

Blythe Beck, the fiery young chef and star of Oxygen’s upcoming series The Naughty Kitchen With Chef Blythe Beck, shows off her distinctive sexy American cuisine, her cutting edge Dallas restaurant, Central 214, and her loud and flamboyant staff. The Naughty Kitchen With Chef Blythe Beck is certain to cook up the drama both in and out of the kitchen. Oxygen follows executive chef Blythe Beck, a 29-year old Texas native, who is plus-sized in stature and personality, and her colorful crew at Central 214, inside and outside the kitchen as they interact with the Dallas elite and the local university students.

Monday night I went to Central 214 to check it out and write a mini-review. Sadly, I didn’t see waitresses in garter belts or waiters wearing thongs, but I did find the Door Whores. And calories. Lots of calories. What is sexy about calories? I guess we will find out when the show starts on September 22nd. Somebody tell me this is a good thing.

Dallas Restaurant News: Bits and Bites

From the copy and paste press release department:

Molto Formaggio. “MF has sourced an exciting new line of handcrafted cheeses from Switzerland and Bavaria that will be new to area consumers. Among the finds that will be introduced this week at both Molto Formaggio shops are Forsterkase, Scharfe Maxx, Heublumen, Bavarian Limburger (organic), and Challerhocker. Molto Formaggio is pleased to announce that they will be receiving shipments for both Thanksgiving and Christmas of the world famous Vacherin Mont d’Or cheese.  These one pound pieces are only produced 3 months out of the year and are truly the most luscious and wonderful cheeses made in the world.  Customers must preorder these cheeses for delivery in November or December as they will surely be sold out due to the limited quantities available.”  HP 214-526-0700. Preston Forest 214-361-9191.

Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen. “Introducing Heart-Healthy Lunch Items and $10 Menu Choices. Chef Kent Rathbun has created heart-healthy menu items including, Grilled Chicken Breast with Portobello Mushrooms, Ricotta, Rosemary Olive Oil and Mache Salad; Salmon Burger; Heirloom Tomato Dallas Mozzarella Salad with Avocado Green Goddess Dressing; Tassione Farm Field Green Salad with Roasted Lemon-Sherry Vinaigrette; Grilled Chicken Breast with California Avocado, Paula’s Cottage Cheese and Avocado Yogurt; and Shrimp, Crab and Lobster “Coleslaw” with Cilantro-Lime Dressing. All heart-healthy menu items are designated by a red heart. In conjunction with these items on our everyday menu, Chef Rathbun will offer a Heart Healhty Blue Plate Special for lunch and dinner until September 5. Starting September 14, on each Monday our Blue Plate Special will be Heart Healthy. Come join us and feel good again! Chef Rathbun has also added new $10 menu items on our lunch menu. Enjoy Carr Valley Mammoth Cheddar Grilled Cheese, Chef’s Choice Taco Plate of the Day, Salmon Burger and Grilled Flatbread and Hummus with Feta Cheese.”

The Pyramid Restaurant. On Friday, September 25th, the Pyramid Restaurant will host a Spaten Beer Pairing Dinner. Executive Chef jW Foster will pair his exciting “modern American” cuisine with the legendary German beers from Spaten. Details and menu below.

Chisholm Trail Longhorn Beef. “Dallas-based longhorn co-op Chisholm Trail Longhorn Beef, which is owned and maintained by several Dallas residents that also own other Dallas-based business. Mike Crawford, not only owns Red Peak Ranch, he owns and operates a marketing firm here in Dallas. The Texas longhorn co-op has just joined the Texas Department of Agriculture’s GO TEXAN program. Chisholm Trail Longhorn Beef is currently being served at Local in Deep Ellum and at Opa! Grill on Preston. Full release below.

Chick-fil-A.  “Free Chick-fil-A Original Chicken Sandwich to all customers wearing any sports-related apparel on Labor Day to celebrate the second-annual Chick-fil-A Kickoff football game!This year’s Chick-fil-A Kickoff Game will feature University of Alabama against Virginia Tech at the Georgia Dome in Atlanta.” (more…)

How To Cook Rack of Lamb Like Charlie Palmer

I was with Sarah this morning at Charlie Palmer, where we filmed the celebrity chef preparing his Colorado lamb rack with fingerling Lyonnaise and pancetta balsamic reduction. It was, in word, divine. While Kyle is editing the video for your viewing pleasure, I thought I would give you a little teaser: the recipe, which executive chef Scott Romano promises is “home chef friendly.” To be sure, he sent the recipe to his mom and asked, “Is this something you could make?” Also noteworthy: Charlie Palmer is a really affable, down-to-earth guy. He was a pleasure to talk to and cook with. And even though he’s richer than I’ll ever be, I don’t mind putting more money in his pocket. I’m excited to eat at his restaurant—someplace in Dallas I haven’t been. Well, at least I haven’t eaten in the dining room. I just had a bite in the kitchen.

Pegasus News is Desperate for Comments: Develops “Outbursts”

Mike Orren needs your help. Keep your comments on SideDish.

I thought I was desperate for attention! Mike Orren, the wizard behind the Oz over at Pegasus News, has found another outlet for his ADHD—it’s called Outbursts. The feature is designed especially for your prefrontal cortex and encourages “verified users” to “post news and links on any local topic you like. All you have to do is click the “Post an Outburst” link on the Outbursts page.”  According to this “complete guide to ADHD site” symptoms of the disorder include “blurting out inappropriate comments, show their emotions without restraint, and act without regard for consequences.” Check out Outbursts and leave your scathing comments here. Remember, we have prizes and they don’t!

Where There is Fire, There Will be Smoke Restaurant at The Belmont Hotel

This announcement comes from the copy and paste press release department:

Belmont Hotel Debuts New Restaurant “Smoke”
Serving Hardwood Cooking From Scratch

DALLAS, TEXAS (August 31, 2009) – A slow burn thick with Southern style arrives in Dallas this September with Smoke. Fresh from a renovation and concept overhaul, the Belmont Hotel’s restaurant reemerges as a homage to an old fashioned smokehouse, with hardwood cooking from scratch and authentic southern flavors. Led by Chef/Co‐Owner Tim Byres, inspired by his recent travels to America’s smokehouse roots, Smoke will offer patrons a culinary experience that satisfies both the palate and soul. Employing time‐honored cooking techniques and recipes with a commitment to local ingredients, Smoke is down‐home cooking done right. JUMP!

(more…)

Evan Grant Is A Slacker: I Have To Do His Work. Again.

What you guys don’t know is that I was the one that broke Josh Hamilton’s Photo-Gate on InsideCorner last weekend while Evan Grant was face down in a hotel room in Anaheim. So you won’t be surprised when I have to make you aware of Evan’s next promotional gig: Tomorrow,  Pappasito’s Cantina (located at 10433 Lombardy Lane in Dallas) will host a game-watching party featuring former Texas Ranger players. (The current players are in Cleveland.) RUSTY GREER will be there! Fajitas for two will only be $16.25! Evan will be there! It all starts at 5:30 p.m. Admission is free. For additional information call 214-350-1970.

Quick Lunch Review: The Chocolate Angel In Dallas

Watch your back, Celebrity Bakery. Here comes The Chocolate Angel. Two sisters, Sherrie McCall and Marcia Clingon, have turned their wholesale fudge operation into four locations of The Chocolate Angel, a bakery, café, and tearoom.

I was shocked to open the door of the location in Preston Forest–the room was full of women. The only men in the space were behind the counter. The menu consists of soups, salads, sandwiches, a quiche of the day, and baked goods. (The Richardson location serves afternoon tea from 3:30-5:30 p.m.) The Chocolate Angel feels a lot like Celebrity Bakery except when you are stand over the cookie case waiting to order, you don’t faint from sticker shock: lemon bars are $1.00, Neiman-Marcus recipe chocolate chip cookies are 85 cents, and cupcakes are $2.75.

JC and I were jonsing for cheese and cheese we did find. She went for the four-cheese sandwich sprinkled with garlic salt and grilled between two thin slices of sourdough. We were so hungry we forgot to ask which four cheeses were melted together. (more…)

The Grape In Dallas: The Best Burger in Texas Now Available Mondays

You all know that other monthly magazine in Austin named the burger at The Grape the Best In Texas. Many of you were not happy to find out that the burger is only available on Sundays (11:30am-10pm). Not so, now you can sample the 10-ounce patty covered with Vermont white cheddar, peppered bacon, and Nathan’s horseradish half-sour pickles and Dijonaise on Mondays (4:30pm-10pm) as well. Anybody tried? Spill it.

Comfort Food In Dallas: What Comforts You

I am getting a little uncomfortable with the direction comfort food is taking. Can I blame it on the Gen Y population? Sure, why not. They don’t read SideDish. Gen Y’ers are more Britney than Julia.

While the overall trend in dining today is to eat sloooowly, the Gen Y’ers I know are more content to snack quickly. What happened to the good old days of turning on The Thorn Birds (before you knew Richard Chamberlain was gay), grabbing a spoon and a half gallon of ice cream, and eating the whole thing? Once, after I got turned down for what I thought was my dream job, I went back to my apartment, made a three-layer German chocolate cake, and ate every last crumb. Did I feel better? You betcha.

What is comfort food? At home it is one thing, but now restaurants are trying to comfort us in public. Take Kent Rathbun. (beat, beat…) He has gourmet comfort food. He isn’t alone; there are lots of folks making their mortgage payments by selling upscale mac and cheese. Isn’t gourmet comfort food an oxymoron? If you agree, then WTF is healthy comfort food? A lie? You betcha.

I was curious to see if there were any distinctive differences between generations when it came to constant cravings. I didn’t have to Google far to find this little salty tidbit. Jump with me. (more…)

Evan Grant Writes About Breakfast

Evan “Pigarino” Grant loves pork products.

Our InsideCorner sports writer Evan Grant knows a lot about baseball. He also knows a lot about food. For ten years, Evan was the “dining companion” on many of my restaurant reviews. He is too famous to dine with me now. Anywhoo, he is in Seattle and this morning he ventured out of town to a famous breakfast spot. If  you love breakfast like Evan loves breakfast, you will want to read about his meal.

Cobb Switch Barbecue In Carrollton Announces Soft Opening

“The aroma of hickory smoke wafts over the city Monday as Cobb Switch Barbecue co-owners Blair Black and Chris Andrews begin serving slow-cooked barbecue for lunch and dinner.” Translated: Cobb Switch Barbecue, the new spot in Carrollton with a lengthy pedigree of owners, is open. Sort of. Accordint to co-owner Brian Blair the “casual eatery’s fun, tongue-in-cheek atmosphere” doesn’t go hard until the grand opening on June 8. A lot of you have wondered about the name. Drawing on lore from East Texas and the small community of Cobb Switch (about 40 miles east of Dallas) the name comes from “Nearly Lost Legend of Cobb Switch Barbecue.” Listen.

This barbecue joint is dedicated to the smokin’ memory of Cary Cobb, wrongly accused barbecue bandit of East Texas. You won’t believe how he became famous.

One day as a Texas & Pacific train chugged along the railroad siding or “switch” named after him, Cobb pocketed three lumps of coal that fell from the locomotive. Two weeks later, he was facing a $5 fine for “stealing” coal.

Back in the late 1800s, five bucks was a lot of money. “Prove it,” said Cobb as he served a couple of railroad detectives slices of fork-tender beef brisket, mouth-watering dry-rubbed ribs, and melt-in-your-mouth pulled pork…all cooked over coal-fired hickory wood.

Soon the story of Cobb’s delicious destruction of evidence spread all over Kaufman County and the legend of Cobb Switch BBQ was born.

Amazingly, Cary Cobb is absolutely no relation to Phil Cobb, co-owner of Cobb Switch BBQ. Phil just liked the Cobb Switch name. However, co-owner Chris Andrews believes his family’s East Texas farm may have been purchased from the Cary Cobb family. No kidding.

*This story is the rural equivalent of the urban legend. Very little is true. In the mid-1800’s there really was a Cary Cobb. Today, there’s still an East Texas community and rail siding named after him. The part about the coal is a bunch of crap from the Internet. We totally made up the part bout the barbecue.

I like tongue-and-cheek barbecue. It sounds very European. Jump for the menu, location, and hours.

(more…)

Test Kitchen: Tre Wilcox’s Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp with Cheese Grits and Chipotle-Tomato Butter Sauce

So, let me admit upfront: I love cookbooks more than cooking. My library is lousy with them and, though I often entertain the notion of cooking a four-course meal from scratch, I’m more in love with the romance than the reality. In other words, takeout rules in the Johnson household. That’s what makes this new SideDish feature—Test Kitchen—such a delicious challenge. I’ll dust off a local cookbook or published recipe, attempt to prepare it (please note the word “attempt”), and blog the results plus a photo of the finished product. You, dear SideDishers, get to discover which local recipes are winners and losers. I, your foolish amateur chef, get to sharpen my knife skills while documenting my culinary shortcomings for the blogosphere to read. So, see? It’s a win-win. For my inaugural outing, I tackled Top Chef season three contestant and local fave Tre Wilcox (formerly of Abacus) and his episode seven winning bacon-wrapped shrimp with cheese grits and chipotle-tomato butter sauce. It’s from Top Chef: The Cookbook and I have a new respect for sauciers after this back breaker.

(more…)

A Bacon Lightsaber That Cuts Through Steel? Oh Yes.

I present the bacon lightsaber.

Hat tip to Matt Sommer for the link.

Blythe Beck Cusses Like A Sailor And Gets A TV Show

Blythe Beck knows how to handle a pastry tube.

I’m sure every other food blog in town has reported Hector’s-on-Henderson-turned-Central-214 execuchef Blythe Beck upcoming TV show, The Naughty Kitchen. Good for her—I like girls who wear pink and swear like drunken truck drivers. It is a trait I can identify with. One of my coworkers sent me this link. It made me giggle. The show will appear on Oxygen later this year.

We Asked For It: We Got It

On April 1st I ran across chef Gabriel Rucker’s (Le Pigeon in Portland) recipe for Bacon–Apricot Cornbread with Maple Ice Cream. I “screamed” on SideDish for a pastry chef to deliver the goods. Silly me, I didn’t check the comments—the Mansion’s pastry whiz David Collier volunteered for duty and I didn’t follow through. But today a local pastry chef showed up at the office with the real deal. SHE doesn’t want me to “shill” about her actions; she just loved the recipe and wanted to “share it with friends.”

The apricot cornbread was still warm. She used Whole Foods grade B maple syrup in the ice cream and as many Go-Texan products as possible. Two slices of cake and a scoop of ice cream all surrounded by a light drizzle of bacon grease mixed with maple syrup. Breakfast for dessert for lunch. There is a slight chance this dessert could turn up here, but I can’t guarantee it. (There is nothing like Les Dames.)

Grazing Arizona: Desert Sweet Shrimp

SURPRISE, Ariz.–Baseball’s spring training is certainly more about baseball than fine dining—at least it is in Surprise, Arizona. My baseball-writing friends have been scouring this area for a good meal for years and the other night they took me to a new find, Arrowhead Grill. It’s  a steaks-seafood-cocktails kind of place about 30 minutes from Surprise. Surprisingly (sorry) the food was great—steaks are hand-cut and, like my complexion, dry-aged. The waitress, Gretchen, is the kind of server you want every night.

Perusing the menu, I was intrigued by the use of current buzzword, LOCAL. We were dining in the desert. Tumbleweed salad or coyote pot pie I could envision. But “Desert Sweet Shrimp” stopped me cold. The shrimp was described as “farm-raised and locally-grown in Gila Bend’s mineral-rich well water, drawn directly from the desert’s deep and ancient sea beds. This combination of well water and the warm, Arizona sun make for a sweeter-tasting shrimp.” Curious, I asked Gretchen. “Oh, we quit carrying it because it is too expensive,” she said. So we ate mediocre onion rings, nice steaks, delicious hominy grilled with bacon (pictured), and salad with dried dates, figs, and candied pistachios. The next morning I researched the shrimp. Here’s the website that claiming “The World’s Best Shrimp.” Am I the only one who thinks this is weird?

Ham I Am! Makes CBS Nightly News

We love bacon and Ham I Am’s peppered bacon is the best in town. Tonight CBS Nightly News will feature a segment on Grateful Palate, a loyal and long time customer of Ham I Am! Anchor Katie Couric will be doing a piece on HIA’s  “Bacon of the Month Club”. Sorry it’s so last minute. Perhaps we’ll be able to find a clip or a hot link later. Way to go, Meghan!