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Dallas Observer 2009 Best of Dallas® Food List: What do You Think?

Please don’t sue me for using your cover art.

I’m stuck at home in my little glass house. I see a few pebbles on the floor and I think I will toss them.

I just scanned through the Dallas Observer’s 2009 Best of Dallas® Food list. It reminds me of that Who song. What is it, Kirk? Something about the new boss and the old boss? YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH! Bomp, bomp, bomp. YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!

Dave Fairies, I have a quick question: Does the Observer repeat “Bests” if, when the next year rolls around, no one else  fills the category as “Better®?” (That’s mine, dude.)  This is a serious question and I ask it because I have to deal with the beast of ‘Bests” and understand the difficulty at uncovering them. So, Mr. Fairies, do you roll over “Bests” from year to year by moving them into different categories or because they are the “Best” of their original category? Let’s go through the list together and see. Jump with me. It’s not far. (more…)

The French Room, The Hotel Adolphus, and WTF is Going On?

Okay, let’s get this complicated situation out in the open.

Headline yesterday: French Room Chef: Chef Marcus Strietzel =wrong. (Two chefs, Marcus/Marcos, both with last names beginning with “S” threw me for a loop.) I ran a corrected headline at the bottom of the post and received an e-mail from David Davis, PR director at the Hotel Adolphus:

The headline is incorrect.  Marcus Strietzel is the hotel’s new executive chef, not French Room chef; Marcos Segovia continues as the Chef de Cuisine of The French Room.

Yea! All clear. This morning Davis sends this:

“I apologize that I have not sent you an official release. We are waiting on Marcus’s headshot. The hotel has been very busy since he was promoted and he hasn’t been able to stop long enough to have his photo taken. It happens today (Thurs) around 4:30 p.m.  I like to do this all at once, rather than sending out the release – and, then, later, the photo.”

No apologies necessary. Glad the hotel is busy. But wait? Former French Room execuchef William Koval leaves an interesting comment under the post. Jump for the rest of the story. (more…)

SideDish CheeseHeads Celebrate Texas Cheese and Wine at Celebration

Paula Lambert and Evan Grant. Who knew?

An emergency surgery on a torn retina kept me from attending last evening’s SideDish CheeseHead Celebration at Celebration Restaurant. My good friend and award-winning blogger, Evan Grant (way to go, Grumpy!), subbed for me. Needless to say, he and Mozzarella Company owner Paula Lambert bonded instantly. Thanks to the folks at Lucky Layla, Latte Da, and Mozzarella Company for generously supplying their cheeses. Also thanks to Kiepersol Winery for donating bottles of their award winning Cabernet and Merlot and to wine guru Whit Meyers for pouring them. Kudos to the Ozarows from Empire Baking Company for the bread. Celebration owner Ed Lowe and the great facilitator Lincoln (sorry don’t have his last name) gave us the space and plenty of set-up support. Evan is working up a report of the evening. Thanks to the 50-strong SideDish CheeseHeads who showed up. Here’s looking at you! A few R.P. Washburne photos after the jump. (more…)

SideDish Supper Club Report: Nonna Rocks My World

Perfect pici pasta at Nonna.

Yow. Zah. What a night the SideDish Supper Club had at Nonna: Two sold-out seatings, five fabulous Tuscan-inspired courses, 12 wines, and absolutely marvelous company. Detailed reports and pictures will follow throughout the day, but I wanted to thank the chef Julian Barsotti and the Nonna staff for putting on a flawless performance. The star dish of the night, IMO, was the pici pasta with wild boar ragu, fennel pollen, and pecorino. It took two people three days to make enough for the Supper Club. And I bet there is not one noodle left in the kitchen.

However, there were a lot of empty wine bottles. Italian Wine Guy, Alfonso Cevola will attest to that. He and I sat down with few satisfied customers last night—my post-Supper Club posse—and drained the last of the 2003 Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino. (Somebody had to do it.)

Anywhoo, thanks to those who attended. I’d love to hear your thoughts. It is wonderful to share fine food with people who love to share fine food. That is always my goal behind the Supper Club. Finché incontriamo di nuovo!

Ruth Reichl Book Signing at Williams Sonoma Northpark in Dallas

Hey Ruth, I’ll come to your Gourmet Today book signing at Williams Sonoma in Northpark on Wednesday, September 23 at 3:00 p.m. if you will come to SideDish’s Celebration of Texas Wine and Cheese from 5:00 to 7:00pm the same day. You will get to meet fellow author Paula Lambert of the award-winning Mozzarella Company and the folks from Latte Da and Lucky Layla. All three local cheese makers just picked up multiple awards at the 25th Annual American Cheese Society Competition. You will also get to sample some fine red wine from Kiepersol Estates in East Texas. It’s all happening at Celebration Restaurant on West Lovers in Dallas. Have your handlers arrange it. Gourmet magazine needs to taste this cheese and drink this wine. ( I Twittered this post to Reichl.)

Best Chocolate Cake in Dallas? Take Two

Dishers, you failed to guess the origin of the chocolate cake in the picture. You want a clue? I have a prize burning a hole in my pocket. Lemme see: look at the picture, not the cake.

The Munson Wine Trail: Homestead Winery, Making Sherry in North Texas

In the video above, Gabe Parker, owner of Homestead Winery, discusses the winery’s La Bodega de Mitchell sherry with Andrew Chalk. Below, is Chalk’s report on the sherry production at Homestead Winery.

Every now and again, you discover a really memorable wine. It usually happens when you least expect it. Such was the case on Labor Day when I decided to spend the day traveling the Munson Wine Trail and started at Homestead Winery in Ivanhoe. The visit started typically enough. We were taken through the range of Homestead wines from dry whites to, reds, to sweet wines. The surprise came right at the end when owner Gabe Parker said, “Have you tried our sherry?” That caught my attention. Outside its traditional home in Spain,  a wine labeled ‘sherry’ is usually a bad wine cut with cheap brandy to mask its ‘unsaleability’ (Ed. note: new word, Kirk.).

Gabe was insistent and thrust a glass of a pale brown liquid into my hand. It was the right color for an Oloroso sherry certainly, but that is the easiest characteristic of a wine to replicate (just play around with the Deputy Dawg  Chemistry Set for a bit). I smelled it and discovered a nutty, slightly orangey nose of genuine Oloroso sherry. One sip and the caramel and earthy flavors of sherry wrapped in complex patterns around my tongue. There is a hint in the nose and the mouth of the spirit used in fortification. This wine is definitely sweet, but not cloying. How can they do this, I wonder, without the sine qua non of sherry production, the solera? (more…)

Guessing Games: The Winners of The Grape “Free Burger” Gift Certificates

Some people think this is the best burger in Texas.

Listen up: Monday, Brian Luscher of The Grape offered 10 gift certificates to the first ten commenters to this post.

If you are Tx2Step, Elena34, Kyle, Ash, Melody, DarnellErwinFletcher, CD, MaggieP, Chuck, or Erik, e-mail me with contact information so that I can get the certificates to you.

Pegasus News is Desperate for Comments: Develops “Outbursts”

Mike Orren needs your help. Keep your comments on SideDish.

I thought I was desperate for attention! Mike Orren, the wizard behind the Oz over at Pegasus News, has found another outlet for his ADHD—it’s called Outbursts. The feature is designed especially for your prefrontal cortex and encourages “verified users” to “post news and links on any local topic you like. All you have to do is click the “Post an Outburst” link on the Outbursts page.”  According to this “complete guide to ADHD site” symptoms of the disorder include “blurting out inappropriate comments, show their emotions without restraint, and act without regard for consequences.” Check out Outbursts and leave your scathing comments here. Remember, we have prizes and they don’t!

Let’s Play on SideDish: Guessing Games and Prizes for Comments

Last week was a very slow news week. To spice things up, I played a few games like “Guess the Best Onion Rings Restaurant ” and “What is the Worst Meal You Ever Ate.” It was so fun that we spun off a game inside the game: “Uncle Nancy’s 67th Commenter.” If a person became the 67th commenter, they got a prize. Why 67? As my mom used to say, “Because.”

However, like in all games, somebody broke the rules. Chef Brian Luscher of The Grape posted 11 times straight to hit 67 and then expected to win. Obviously fame has gone to his (beat, beat) head. I scolded him in the thread. He feels so bad he offers this as an apology:

Tio Nancy,
You wrote: “Luscher, out of the game. To the showers. Disqualified. Call Pat Sharpe and have her take you to Wingfield’s. Best Burger? Make onion rings like these and we’ll talk.”

Ouch. Please forgive my double espresso fueled bout of mid- Restaurant Week buffoon-ery.  I hope I didn’t ruin your tea party.  Here is what I propose to remain in the good graces of you and your constituency of SideDish Nationales;

1. I will make you those exact onion rings. [it's a secret how I will pull it off]
2. I am inviting you and your “Be the 67th Commenter” winners in for burgers and said onion rings.
3. I will provide 10 gift certificates for burgers at The Grape for the next ten commenters.

Yow. Zah. HERE ARE THE RULES. Over the next few weeks, I’ll post a question designed to attract a zillion comments. Each time a person becomes the 67th commenter, they will be eligible for special dinner at The Grape. [So far, we have three “Uncle Nancy’s 67th Commenter” winners:  Sexy Jeff (Worst Meal), Brad (Onion rings), and George (Best Meal).]

To get warmed up, get goin’ on Luscher’s deal. The first ten commenters today get gift certificates to The Grape.

JW Foster of the Pyramid Restaurant at the Fairmont Hotel Wins Best Caesar Salad in Dallas Competition

When life gives JW Foster lemons, he (center) makes Caesar Salad.(Thanks to Lee Fuqua for the photo.)

JW Foster of the Pyramid Restaurant and Bar at the Fairmont Hotel won the title of Best Caesar in Dallas at the 18th annual Caesar Salad Competition presented by those wacky and wonderful folks at the AIWF. Why did JW win? “Because he made the best salad,” said attendee Lee Fuqua. “We didn’t eat any of the side dishes we just ate the salads and judged the salads.”

You see a few years ago, chefs that entered the competition began to add charming side dishes such as foie gras and lobster to their salad. Once the voting public had downed a glass or two of wine they were so happy to bite into a mass of protein, they would vote for the sexy protein and not the salad. A huge rift developed in the voting masses that flock to this annual event.

But it sounds like JW Foster wooed lettuce lovers back to a semi-straightforward Caesar with his version that, according to the Teegster, “consisted of Romaine hearts dressed with anchovies, Dijon mustard, garlic, egg yolks, Texas extra virgin olive oil, Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces, vinegar, lemon juice and lemon zest, Texas “parmesan” and Romano cheeses with rosemary brioche croutons.”

Daniel Nemec of Kirby’s Steak House took second place and Eric Dreyer of Fearing’s at the Ritz Carlton came in third. For the next year, FW Foster will reign over a peaceful Caesar Salad-lovin’ community.

Celebrating Texas Cheese With the Winners of the American Cheese Society Competition

Art by Bob Dob.

In early August, I reported on the Dallas area cheesemakers who won big time national awards at the 25th Annual American Cheese Society Competition in Austin. I’ll wait while you read the post…

…Okay, so now you know Latte Da, Lucky Layla, and Mozzarella Company made our region proud. In a follow-up post, I printed a 2,500 word document detailing the complete list of winners and judges. At the bottom of the lengthy post,  I typed: IF YOU ARE STILL WITH ME, YOU ARE AN OFFICIAL SIDEDISH CHEESEHEAD AND IF YOU SEND ME AN EMAIL YOU WILL BE INVITED TO A VERY SPECIAL CHEESE EVENT. [EDITOR'S NOTE: Please use this form rather than sending an email.]

Three of you, drum roll please: Worzel (shocker, I know), Meaders, and Douglas replied. They are now official SideDish CheeseHeads. But here is the even better news: I am putting together a small FREE event to celebrate Texas cheese and Texas wine. It will be in late September. So let’s start a list below so I can get an idea of how big to blow this out. Lists, I love lists. Go. Sign up. Be a SideDish CheeseHead. We will make Wisconsin blush with envy.

The Best Onion Rings in Dallas? Guess the Restaurant!

Diamonds in the rough.

Eat these now.

I love onion rings. I love them big and tall. I love them greasy and small. Recently I ordered onion rings at a restaurant in Dallas and I was shocked—these are the best rings I’ve had in Dallas in a long time. Since Restaurant Week basically kills the food news biz, let’s play another game today: Can you guess where these onion rings were cooked? Go. Somebody will win something.

WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER:

GJ @ August 27th, 2009 at 3:30 pm _

Pinkberry To Open in Dallas’s Preston Royal

 Pinkberry, “the taste that launched 1,000 parking tickets,” is going to open (next to Barnes & Noble and Merge)  in Dallas’ Preston Royal Village. It will be the first US location to open outside of the California and New York markets.

UPDATE: They’re looking for a manager!

UPDATED UPDATE: Opening in early November.

2009 Texas Sommelier Conference: Texas’ Best Sommelier

As I mentioned earlier, while the 2009 Texas Sommelier Conference was taking place at the Four Seasons Resort & Club in Las Colinas, there were 21 Texas sommeliers competing for Texas’ Best Sommelier. Last night at the Grand Tasting, the winners were announced. June-Ann Rodil of Uchi in Austin won. Anibal Calcagno (Brenner’s Steakhouse in Houston) took 2nd, and John Honefenger (Tony’s in Houston) took third.

(James Tidwell, Devon Broglie, Craig Collins, June-Anne Rodil, Guy Stout, Drew Hendricks)

UPDATE: Photos from last night.

Dallas Wins Big Cheese Awards At 25th Annual American Cheese Society Competition In Austin

Paula Lambert of Dallas’ Mozzarella Company is in Austin for the 25th Annual The American Cheese Society Conference and Competition. Last night was the international competition. Here’s a text from Paula:

We had BIG Dallas winners last night! Anne Jones from Latte Da won 1st for marinated Feta, Edgar Diaz (Lucky Layla) won 1st for plain drinkable yogurt, 2nd place for flavor-added cultured product (Tropical Passion Fruit Drinkable yogurt), 2nd for their Yogurt cheese, and 2nd place for Boyaca, AND we (Mozzarella Company) won 1st for Queso Oaxaca and 2nd for Queso Blanco with Chiles and Epazote!!!

Here is a breakdown of the results:

Out of 314 ribbons awarded, the state of Wisconsin scored the most ribbons with 92, California came in second with 45, cheesemakers in the state of Vermont captured 32 ribbons. More than 700 attended this year’s conference, participating in educational seminars on subjects from cheesemaking to the art of maturing cheese.

I haven’t received the complete rundown of winners, but will add to this post ASAP.

Dallas Restaurant Bijoux Receives Award Of Excellence From Wine Spectator

Here’s the thing about descriptive blog headlines. You don’t need to say much else—unless you want more information about Bijoux, which we’ve got. Oh, and you can read about other restaurant awards in the current issue of Wine Spectator.

Wine and Dine with Frasca

I know we focus on all things Dallas, but over the weekend I had the pleasure of taking a cooler weather get away to Denver, that included an incredible Lyle Lovett concert at Red Rocks, a fun Colorado Rockies game, and an outstanding meal designed by two James Beard Award winners.  Based on the oversold flight out on Friday afternoon, there were many Dallasites with the same idea in mind.

If you find yourself in Denver, then dinner at Frasca, a short drive away in Boulder, is a must.

Why?  Talent and passion, accented with award winning grace from owner and 2008’s James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef: Southwest,” Food and Wine Magazine’s “Best Chef, 2005,” and recently competing on Bravo’s Top Chef Masters, Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson and owner, 2003’s James Beard Foundation “Outstanding Wine Service” recipient and  ”Wine Director of the Year” from San Francisco Magazine, and James Beard 2008 “Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional” nominee, Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey. Jump for more.

(more…)

Winners Announced : Private Screening of Screening Julie & Julia And Author Lecture

Yow. Zah. What a great response to our little contest for tickets to a screening of the movie Julie & Julia on Monday, July 27 followed by a lecture with J&J author, Julie Powell, at the DMA on Wednesday, July 29. Here are the winners randomly selected by our marketing maven, Stephanie Snell:

Robert Hall
Kim Abraham Abraham Kim
Sarah Moore

If you can’t make the events, please let me know so that I can pass on to other hopefuls. Many thanks to the Dallas Museum of Art and Arts & Letters Live for donating the tickets.
FYI: I’m working on tickets to another screening at a later date. Stay tuned.

SideDish Winner: Best Burger In Texas Contest

Disher Peter Quinones won the Guess the Best Burger in Texas According to Texas Monthly Contest. Chef Brian Luscher of The Grape is so blown away, he is going to give Peter, a “burgers for two” dinner. Good times. (I continue to write about the Texas Monthly Best Burger in Texas so that you will become so tired of reading about it you will not buy the magazine. Have I succeeded?) PQ, details coming your way.

The Sorta Bad News: You Can’t Order A Burger At The Grape Tonight

Or tomorrow. Just caught up with owner/chef Brian Luscher of The Grape. He says:

Luscher: I just found out. I just got back from a lil’ stay-cation and everyone is asking me “Have you heard? Have you heard?”  I knew we did well because they [T.M.] came out for a photo session a few weeks ago.  I am blown away.  I have always thought “that if a joint has a burger, you can judge the quality of the place based on the burger.

NN: Secret?

Lusher: None.  We just don’t treat it [or anything else] as an after thought. Whether it is our awesome f&%*$-ing cheeseburger [I just hollered that out loud a little bit!], or a wine dinner, or an order of mussels, we put forth our best effort. Not to mention the fact that basically every burger gets cooked by our Chef de Cuisine Karin Porter, a.k.a. Chaparra. I am proud.  Really proud.

NN: When can we eat them?

Luscher: We are going to offer the “Classic Cheeseburger” all  day on Sundays for right now [normally brunch only].  We have other plans that we will release at a later date.

So, TexMo, I hope we didn’t steal any of your thunder. That just wouldn’t be nice.

We Have A Winner On The Guess The Best Burger In Dallas Contest

I never dreamed anyone would actually win our little spontaneous contest. But PQ came up with The Grape @9:48 this morning. PQ? Who are you? E-mail me for your prize.

Best Margarita In Dallas: The Maximo Heat From Maximo in Dallas

Drink this margarita now. Photo by Kevin Hunter Marple

A few days ago, Kyle Kearbey asked an innocent question on SideDish: What is your favorite summer cocktail? It not only made me thirsty, it reminded me to tell you about a new margarita in town. I discovered the Maximo Heat when I was reviewing Maximo Cucina and Margarita Lounge. The review comes out in a week or so, but I have to tell you about it now. This is the best margarita I’ve had outside of Rick Bayless’ Topolobampo in Chicago. The Maximo Heat is a gorgeous green concoction of sweet agave syrup mixed with freshly squeezed lime juice, Sauza Silver (or your choice of tequila from their list), triple sec, and muddled raw jalapeños. After one sip, your tongue becomes a stage for a spirited symphony filled with staccato notes of sweet, sour, bitter, salt, and tart. Seconds later, a bolt of fiery jalapeño crashes like cymbals in your head. It is not to be missed.

Food Stylist Angela Yeung Of Dallas Wins Food Magicians Competition on Food Network

Full disclosure: Angela Yeung of Dallas won the food styling competition on Food Network Challenge: Food Magicians last night but I didn’t watch the show. I meant to—I love food styling, but I just plain forgot. The show will be repeated (and repeated) and I’ve now got it scheduled. Meanwhile, congratulations to Angela. Spend your $10,000 prize carefully. You might want to wait on opening your own restaurant.

Mama Ida Ice Cream Social at The Dallas Farmers Market: The Winners

Mama Ida and the winning team of Joshua Webster, Elvin Westbrook, Charles Miller, and Aaron Cessac.

Full disclosure:  I overslept and missed the ice cream tasting, but I did get down to the Dallas Farmers Market in time to meet the winners and take their pictures. The 3rd Annual Mama Ida Ice Cream Social is a fundraiser for the Dallas Farmers Market Friends, founded by Ida Papert.  Local culinary students and kids from the Dallas County Youth Village are given local ingredients and a chance to compete for a cash prize.

Congratulations this year go to “Reckless Abandonment,” a sub team of Le Cordon Bleu Cooking School for their roasted fig and brandy ice cream. And kudos to Parigi chef Chad Hauser for immediately asking the winners to supply his restaurant with their ice cream.