Photographer Kevin Marple+Graham Dodds' Scotch egg=Central 214 deliciousness.

Graham Dodds, execuchef at Central 214, is doing some crazy stuff with eggs. He serves a Poached Farm Egg: an egg atop a Lyonnais salad of chopped greens, lardons and crumbled Caprino Royale goat cheese ($10 at lunch and pictured below the jump). Cut the floppy egg with your knife and the viscous yolk flows out like molten lava and runs with an iridescence that makes you wonder if you should be wearing protective dark glasses. {Ed. note: I’m leaving it in!]

The unavoidable feeling of richness carries through to the taste as well. It reminds me of what a farm egg is supposed to taste like. They do because Dodds buys them from Steven at Urban Acres. You can too. They come from Yellow Prairie Farm in Caldwell Texas,  where the farmer’s name is Dan. He is just one of the small producers that Dodds has fastidiously sought out during his years working as a chef.

Jump for the glory of Graham Dodds’ eggs.

I got the scoop on Central 214’s farm-to-table approach last week from when I dined  with two California winemakers and a wine industry marketing executive from San Francisco. We had the triple cooked fries (best in Dallas) and slow-cooked goat brisket (people almost forgot their manners scrambling for morsels) but we also tried the exquisite poached farm egg. I was pleased to see their obvious pleasure in the food they were served and their surprise that such a central Californian idea being executed so successfully in Dallas.

Poached farm Egg at Central 214

David Trubenbach's takes his Farm-To-Fire cuisine seriously. The shape of the hotel whips winds into a vortex.

It’s been  a year since I wrote about the opening of Asador, the restaurant in the Dallas Renaissance Hotel. The report announced the arrival of chef/proprietor Dean  Max and, a young, talented and energetic chef with a focus on farm-to-table (or “farm-to-fire” as Asador would rather term it) principles. Ditto for onsite chef David Trubenbach. I also noted Marriott corporation’s commitment to a destination restaurant in the Dallas Renaissance Hotel, a promise they backed up with an extensive Tequila collection. As downtown Dallas restaurants convert, seemingly like flies, to steak houses, I decided to check-in, so to speak, at Asador to see if they are staying true to their original mission. Here is what I found.

Seafood Texas Cigar: (lump crab, gulf rock shrimp, cilantro, poblano, and lemon aioli in a wrapper or feuilles de brick.

I attended a media event this week which included the presence of Chef Max. After tasting the creations, I can confirm Asador is doing very nicely. Robust hotel bookings are the backbone of solid numbers at lunch and in the evening. The concept of corporate chef Dean James Max has actually expanded and deepened the restaurant’s commitment to preparing dishes in-house and using artisanal suppliers. The tequila collection has evolved into a full mixology program and includes an expanded beer list which currently boasts 35 selections, including eight from Texas.

The one puzzle, to me, is that Asador is still relatively unknown and not patronized by Dallasites seeking a destination restaurant. Here’s what those folks are missing:

The philosophy described above translates to a menu that is printed on pretty flimsy card stock. That’s good, because the reason is that Asador Chef David Trubenbach changes one or two items every day. The result is a constantly evolving expression of seasonal freshness backed up by a commitment to let the ingredients speak for themselves. Since my report last year, he has spent a lot of time exploring local producers and has been quite brutal dealing with any producers whose quality or ethics do not fit his ideals. He grew up close to the coast (in Florida) and has had an overall positive experience sourcing in the very different climate of Texas.

Grilled Calamari Salad (corn, mâche, avocado, bacon, lardoons)

He thinks cheese is a strong suit here. He’s uses Gouda from Dave Eagle at Eagle Mountain Farmhouse Cheese and several cheeses from Paula Lambert at The Mozzarella Company. He is currently looking for a really good Texas cheddar-style cheese. Fresh produce comes from a number of farms including Rocco Tassione’s Tassione Farm in Stephenville and Chef’s Produce, an unusual produce merchant in that it requires that all of its sales representatives to be qualified chefs. The biggest challenge has been seafood, due partly to the move inland from Florida and partly to the problems in the Gulf during 2011. He has, however, made up the supply difficulties with some interesting preparations. For example, he smokes salmon (which he sources from the Bay of Fundy) and other ‘oily’ fish. He uses grass-fed beef ground up in burgers or braised but recognizes that most customers prefer corn-fed steak. So if a steak is really what you want, there is no need to leave the hotel.

Mahi Mahi with Mole Sauce

The new items I mentioned above take various forms. The ‘Taco Tuesdays’ program  I cited last time is flourishing. Each Tuesday at 4:30pm  you can order two tacos and a taste of tequila for $6. You can add a $15 Tequila Family Flight (three tequilas) or a $6 margarita as well. Mondays are ‘Reverse Happy Hour’ from 9pm until 11pm, and every day is Happy Hour from 4pm until 7pm. On Thursdays, select wines from the list are half-off.  Friday’s menu offers alternating Chef’s Table dinners. Wine, beer, and tequila rotate on consecutive weeks as the beverage that is paired with a three-or four-course menu (plus amuse) for $45 + t & t. The meal is served at a 12-place chef’s table and Trubenbach introduces the dishes and interacts with the guests.

Asador now has a selection of specialty cocktails prepared by Tyler Lott the, ahem, hottest Mixologist I have seen. She is self-taught, but hasn’t missed a thing. The cocktails  I tasted were carefully conceived and impeccably executed. The Bloody Maria is especially recommended.

Grilled Chicken with Mole Sauce

One thing I would like them to revisit is their wine list. They need to carry over the local element of the food to to the list.  There is not a single Texas wine on the list. This is at the very time in Texas wine history at which there is least justification for such an omission. I suspect that it happened because the list is sourced from ‘central listing’ and, rather like the case at the similarly focused Central 214, the local people need to bring the issue to the attention of the powers that be. If Hunter Hammett at The Pyramid Restaurant can sell Texas wine, then so can others. Also, the markup on the list is three times that of retail price (e.g. 2009 The Prisoner Zinfandel $89, 2010 Pascual Toso Malbec $35). That kind of mark-up is common in Dallas restaurants, but it is a big disincentive to order wine. That being said, this list shows good geographical coverage for its size, and there are over 20 wines by the glass and several available in half bottles. Perhaps the solution here is a dedicated sommelier?

Another welcome change is the ‘welcome.’ The large area that the restaurant occupies used to feel like an airport lounge. In particular, it wasn’t clear how you indicated you wanted a table after you arrived in the hotel lobby. Now the restaurant area is roped off and a maître’d stand learly marks the entrance.

Fried Gouda with Guava Purée and Spicy Arugula

The Chef’s Table menu I sampled recently illustrated what the food at Asador is all about. We started with an amuse of Seafood Texas Cigar : lump crab, gulf rock shrimp, cilantro, poblano pepper, and lemon aioli in a wrapper of feuilles de brick).

The salad course was Grilled Calamari Salad (corn, mâche, avocado, bacon, lardoons). What a creative change from the standard house salad. This dish did not just have the buttery-ness of avocado and crunchy saltiness of bacon, but the squid was presented in a way that did not make it seem like it had been swimming around the core of Fukushima reactor #3 at the wrong time.

Next, we had a choice of either surf or scratch, so to speak. The scratch was grilled chicken and the surf a grilled mahi mahi. Both were served with succotash of onions, plantains, haricot vert, and black bean purée. Both were covered with a mole sauce. Interestingly, the recipe for the mole sauce came from the mother of a former supervisor on the kitchen line. To accompany this, we had a smoked margarita which was uncannily smoky.

Warm Chocolate Chipotle Cake with Dulce de Leche Ice Cream

Next Fried Gouda with Guava Purée and Spicy Arugula was like a warm cheese course.

Finally, the dessert was Warm Chocolate Chipotle Cake with Dulce de Leche Ice Cream. All made in-house and accompanied by Jalisco Espresso, a cocktail with more coffee intensity than many real coffees.

The Chef’s Table is an excellent way to sample the kind of food served by Asador and an excellent value. In addition, the hotel has ample free parking and valet if preferred. Over the last year, Asador continues to expand the scope of its food and beverage programs. Get out of your comfort zone and give it a try.

Tenderloin tamales and tortilla soup at Reata

I was living in Fort Worth when Reata moved to Sundance Square in 2002, taking over the old Caravan of Dreams space. Not long in Texas, I experienced every day as a Lone Star adventure, and in Fort Worth those adventures were often accompanied by cattle and cowboys, boots and a biker boyfriend. Things aren’t like that for me anymore. I live in Dallas now. I haven’t seen a cow up close in years. I still wear my boots, but that biker boyfriend is only a cherished memory. Time passes. Things change.

But I was excited to revisit Reata. My first meal there, shortly after that opening nearly 10 years ago included the restaurant’s famed tenderloin tamale. I’ve never forgotten that day, the afternoon sun streamed through the windows as I sat across from a woman whom I thought would become a friend (she didn’t) and sank my teeth into my first bite of seasoned beef wrapped in masa and topped with pecan mash. It was heaven in a corn husk.

On Saturday last, I and a fellow ballet lover arrived at Reata at 4:35, after seeing Dracula at Bass Hall. The restaurant wasn’t seating yet, but the hostess gave us a buzzer with a jazzy picture of a horse on it and told us to wait. To pass the time, we browsed the little gift shop, running our hands over rhinestone bracelets, turquoise necklaces, and belts made of both. We tried on studded handbags for size and discussed whether fringe is just a Texas thing or a nationwide trend for spring. We left the spurs for someone else and got a drink at the handsome bar, which I like to fantasize fills with rugged working men later in the night. (I’ve been told it does not.)

Soon we were seated at a two-top. It was only a few minutes after 5 p.m. and already the restaurant seemed busy and full. All that imagined blood-sucking at Bass Hall must have left a lot of people hungry.

My companion and I both honed in on the smoked quail with cheddar grits appetizer. While we waited to order we quelled our appetites with the bread basket. Mini cornbread muffins and pecan-studded biscuits were happy little pillows of sustenance. We gave thanks for the butter, room temperature and made savory with jalepenos and roasted garlic.

We felt equally grateful about the fat, tender, and juicy bird that soon arrived. Butterflied, finished on the grill, and cut in two, it sat atop a pool of jalepeno cheese grits garnished with julienned green onion and a swirl of mesquite barbecue sauce. We each grabbed our half of the bird and went to work – my lovely friend with a knife and fork, me with my hands. I sucked every last shred of that meat from the bone like the redneck my mama raised me to be. I ate spoonful after spoonful of the grits; my friend tried them and declared them too glutinous, but she agreed it was simply a matter of preference. Overall, the dish was a hit.

If only we’d stopped there.

The tortilla soup was unimpressive — and not like the tortilla soups I’ve eaten elsewhere. The thin, bland broth had flecks of cilantro and diced pepper and avocado, but no discernible personality. When I tasted the soup, I complained to my friend, “It’s missing a food group – tomatoes!” To which she replied, “It’s missing a spice group – anything!”

Service was super quick. We’d barely handed over our menus when our very young waiter named Mathew (with one T) brought our quail. I was still licking succulent bird juice from my fingers when a different waiter delivered our soup and tamales. Was it because we were eating so early, we asked Mathew with One T when he came back to see if we were enjoying our food. No, he said, these particular dishes always come out really fast. Which makes sense. Tamales and soup aren’t something the kitchen is making to order.

Oh, about those tamales. They didn’t live up to my recollection. Three huge servings looked impressive on the plate but tasted only average. The meat was a little dry. My taste buds were bored. My friend didn’t especially like the nutty flavor imparted by the pecan mash. “Well, so much for that,” I thought.

Memory is a funny thing. It plays tricks on us. It rewrites history, often making it more palatable. Or maybe it’s just that some things, like biker boyfriends and tenderloin tamales, really are better the first time around. Are better when they remain a fond reflection of a time past.

Imagine for one second that you happened to forget that it was Valentine’s Day next week.  Maybe you were busy at work, maybe you were simply swamped with World of Warcraft, who cares.  You forgot and now your wife  is giving you the what for. I know how you feel, I’ve been there before.  There’s a reason the arms of my micro-fiber couch have sleepy-drool stains on them.

Fear not compadres, there is a foolproof way to get yourself out of the dog house and back on that lovely pedestal.

Step 1: Flowers (they are all suckers for dead plants).

Step 2: Learn the value of a good-ole, tear jerkin’ apology.

Step 3: Surprise her with a night out at Stephan Pyles.

You wife will be putty in your hands.

Mr. Pyles is, obviously, not the new kid on the block. The dude is a pioneer of southwestern cooking, like the Daniel Boone of Dallas dining.  I have had some of the most fantastic dishes of my life at the tables of this culinary mastermind. Yet despite the periodic shifting in the menu, there is one dish which remains a constant at our dinner table, the delectable Tamale Tart.

This dish screams flavor like a banshee with a bullhorn.  It’s uniqueness and sophistication defines what the name of Pyles has come to represent, and it should be on the must-try list of any Dallas diner.

The tart starts with a roasted garlic custard, made from heavy cream, pureed roasted garlic, and eggs.  The custard fills a tamale tart composed of masa flour, cornmeal, cumin, bell pepper and ancho chili.  The entire things if finished with a crown of fresh lump crabmeat, and a smoked tomato sauce.

There you go, you are no longer pond scum, you are now the most sensitive, caring man in the world.  But don’t thank me for saving your marriage, thank the big man in the kitchen, Cap’n P.

Bar Crew at The Chesterfield

The Chesterfield, the tony new bar backed by Ed Bailey and manned by Ed “Lucky ” Campbell,  opened somewhat softly on Friday night. It is in the old Doc Bell’s BBQ place on Main Street in downtown Dallas.  Sumptuous old couches have been moved in and the well-stocked bar ready to “celebrate the golden age of cocktails”  runs down one exposed brick wall of the oblong space. It’s urban sophistication in the glass and in the space.

Jump for my favorite thing.In the  back is a portal into the galley kitchen. The tiny space is  not a problem for  Chef  Michael Ehlert. In fact, his workspace at The Chesterfield  is wide-open acreage compared to some of the places  he worked in NYC. (Most recently Ehlert was at DBGB.)

Campbell was so psyched about the location, he signed the lease a year ago without a penny in the bank. He is totally convinced  he is right about choosing  downtown. Campbell looked at other locations, including Bishop Arts (and Kepler 22b for all I know), but decided  nowhere offered the vibrancy and economics of downtown.  Of course it’s  Ed Bailey’s money on the line, a fact that helps Campbell sleep at night.

I think that this place could be stratospherically successful. [Ed. note: Huh?] It combines the sophistication and lack of starchiness of  a Stephan Pyles establishment. Come in jeans, or in your suit after work, or in a tux on your way to a holiday party or the symphony. Sample flatbreads and small plates from a chef who joins the band of Dallas chefs who have spent time working in a world-class environment. I hope the food offered  allows Ehlert to display his talents. And you can be sure that Lucky’s bar and mixology crew is going to have their heads banged until they are among the best in town.

Chef Michael Ehlert is slicing brioche. That means there must be foie gras nearby...

D will return to review it anonymously at a later date. For now, check it out. 1404 Main Street, Dallas, TX 75202. 214-741-2811.

"Boss, the icemaker is turning out cubes that are two feet across but our glasses are only three inches across. What should we do?" Get bigger glasses!

Beaujolais festival goes shagadelic at the Omni. (photo by Desirée Espada)

Friday was the night to be French in Dallas! The French American Chamber of Commerce threw their annual Beaujolais and Beyond Festival at the new Omni Dallas Convention Center Hotel. This festival started in Dallas over 20 years ago and it celebrates the arrival of the first bottles of Beaujolais Nouveau wine which is ceremoniously released each year on the third Thursday of November. Recently organizers have broadened the scope and now include wines from elsewhere in France and French grape varietals grown in the US. They have also invited French restaurants and caterers to provide a cornucopia of food. Friday’s soiree had a ‘60s theme and most of the sponsors were in costumes (I had no idea how many identical twins Austin Powers had). Images from the decade were displayed on a giant overhead screen and a section near the front was roped off to display iconic cars  which included a Jaguar e-Type, Volkswagen Karmann-Ghia, and a Porsche (Austin Powers 7th thought that it was the 356 Super 90). Impossibly thin girls in mini-skirts and Mary Quant tights danced on pedestals and one was kind enough to explain to me that the particular e-Type on display had the closed-in headlamps, making it more valuable to collectors.

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France on Your Plate's liquid hard-boiled egg. (photo by Desirée Espada)

The most shagadelic food was the Liquid Hard-boiled Egg served in an eggshell. As long as you were aware that the container was as fragile as a monetary union including Italy and Greece, you could get to the ethereal flavors inside. I know; I ate four. The creator was Edouard Barbaste, owner of the catering company France on Your Plate, who learned to cook in his family’s restaurant in the southern French town of Carcassonne.

The Food Providers

Go-go fabulous (left); Janice Provost, chef/owner of Parigi (far right, with Austin Powers look-alike) (photos by Desirée Espada)

(photos by Desirée Espada)

Other foods were provided by Bonnie Ruth’s Café, Cadot Restaurant, Eddie Deen, Empire Baking Company, France on Your Plate; Henry’s Homemade Ice Cream, Hotel St. Germain, La Madeleine, Lavendou Bistro Provençal, Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts, Mimi’s Café, Mozzarella Company, Omni Dallas Hotel, Parigi, Sambuca Uptown, Scardello Artisan Cheese, Studio Mykonos, Texas Spice, Les Trois Petits Cochons, and Delice Chocolatier Selection.

(photos by Desirée Espada)

Parigi's escargot (photo by Desirée Espada)

Anyone up for shots? (photo by Desirée Espada)

The Wine Details

The ‘beyond’ in the theme Beaujolais and Beyond refers to the fact that this year produced some superior wines:  a super 2009 Pinot Noir Reserve from Argyle Winery in Oregon; an impressive display from the folks at McPherson Cellars (Texas) who showcased their 2010 Viognier ($13.59), 2010 Roussanne (which I reviewed here) ($12.69), and 2010 Rosé of Grenache-Syrah ($9.79). All three are made from 100% Texas fruit and were good enough to stand blind comparison with the same varieties from anywhere in the country.

Dakota's version of finger sandwiches. (photos by Desirée Espada)

The Dakota's contingent. (photo by Desirée Espada)

The French contingent was represented by a stellar budget Bordeaux (do any still exist?)– the 2009 Château Bellevue de Fourcas Dupré, Listrac ($16.99). Several good wines from the Perrin family of Châteauneuf-du-Pape (an especially good value was the 2009 Côtes du Rhone Villages at $12.69). However, the biggest surprise and the most topical finds were the Cru Beaujolais wines. These  Beaujolais wines have been allowed to grow up. They are aged in wood with the care and attention afforded their Burgundy brethren to the north. They are relevant now because they are still light enough to be paired with turkey on Thanksgiving. I was especially impressed with the Mommessin Domaine de la Presie from the town of Fleurie ($13.99) and the Mommessin Domaine de Lathevalle from Morgon ($11.99). Both were complex, balanced, and lively with red fruit notes and earthy tones of mushrooms and the forest floor. These were two of the finds of the night and bargains at these prices.

Sampler plates of rosted pork and cous cous. (photo by Desirée Espada)

All of the wines were supplied by Goody Goody Wines and Spirits and all of the wines are in stock at their stores at the prices shown above.

Terry Touchstone and Alexandria Eaton (left); Artisianal Beverage Co. tapped into the fun (right).(photos by Desirée Espada)

Major sponsors included: Patron Sponsors BNP Paribas; United Airlines; Essilor of America, Inc.; The Honorable Robert Lavie, Honorary Consul of France; Jackson Walker L.L.P.; Michael A. Burns & Associates, Inc.; and Safran USA, Inc. The festival’s Villages Sponsors were Alcatel Lucent, American EurocopterCorporation; Eurosource, Inc.; and Evian North America. Nouveau Sponsors included Accor North America; BMW of Dallas, Dallas International School; The Foret Law Firm; L. Scott Brown, FACC President; Les Trois Petits Cochons; and Y.O. Ranch Steakhouse.

Guests served themselves, buffet-style. (photo by Desirée Espada)

The Venue: Got to say a word about the Omni Dallas. It was hard to guess that it has only been open a week. The place seemed to be well on top of things. Also, instead of crawling through Highland Park or Deerfield to take the kids to see Christmas lights this year, take them down Lamar to ogle at the animated colored lights bathing the exterior of the Omni hotel (there has to be a name for this use of lights as part of the architecture. From the Beijing Olympics to Las Vegas to Singapore it seems to be everywhere). They can get barbecue down the street afterwards.

Venison roll-ups from Y.O. Steakhouse (photo by Desirée Espada)

I was an invited guest at this event.

Perrier-Jouët 200th anniversary celebration at NOSH euro bistro. (photo by Desirée Espada)

Last night, contributor Brooklynne Peters attended the Perrier-Jouët 200th anniversary celebration dinner at NOSH. Here’s her report:

Last night, an eclectic mix of Dallasites crowded into NOSH euro bistro to escape the record-breaking heat and to celebrate the 200th anniversary of boutique champagne house Perrier-Jouët.

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Cured salmon and potato latkes. (photo by Desirée Espada)

The celebration, which started out as an intimate affair for 60 in the back room, welcomed more than 100 guests, most of whom arrived before 6 pm. Perrier-Jouët models poured three vintage cuvées that were accompanied by hors d’oeuvres by NOSH’s dynamic duo: chef Avner Samuel and executive chef Jon Stevens.

Tuna tartare with avocado, soy, and chilis. (photo by Desirée Espada)

First came the 2000 Belle Époque Blanc de Blancs, of which only 20,000 bottles were made. It was followed by the Belle Époque Brut and the Belle Époque Rose, all of which complemented the light, crisp hors d’oeuvres. The chefs served said hors d’oeuvres in a mixed fashion instead of in succession with the champagnes.

Tuna tartare (left) overseen by Carrie Keep (right). (photos by Desirée Espada)

Hors d’oeuvres included beet cured salmon and potato lakes with caviar and crème fraiche, smoked bay scallops with spicy tomato chutney and grilled bread, and yellow fin tuna tataki.

Surprise menu addition: lobster fritters. (photo by Desirée Espada)

But the champion of the night was the surprise addition of wonderfully light yet creamy lobster fritters. “It’s different,” said executive chef Jon Stevens of the dish. “It’s surprising when it hits the mouth. Texturally, it’s light. People think, ‘Fried fritter, it’s gotta’ be greasy and doughy.’ It’s really not. It kind of puffs up like a cheese puff. There’s a lot of nice big flavor in that, and that’s what we go for here.”

Chef Jon Stevens crafts the tartare (left); Perrier-Jouët models (right). (photos by Desirée Espada)

The winning duo of Perrier-Jouët and NOSH drew a packed house. (photo by Desirée Espada)

Appetizers are the unsung heroes of any dining experience. Lucky for us, State and Allen Restaurant and Lounge addresses that by offering destined for the forefront of diner’s thoughts.

The real gem of State and Allen’s starters is the baked brie with roasted garlic ($8.95). The dish is served over French bread and a mixture of greens with vinaigrette dressing. For the best experience, place the greens on the bread with a garlic clove, then top it with a slice of warm brie. This combination creates a perfect storm of salty and sweet. The only downside: the app only feeds two to three people.

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Alternately, the triple dip deserves mention. Hummus, spinach-artichoke dip, and salsa with feta cheese are served with pita bread and corn chips. The hummus is a typical chickpea recipe with olive oil and garlic. The spinach artichoke dip, while delicious, is very similar to other restaurants’ preparations. The real stand-out of these three is the salsa with feta. State and Allen takes Mexican and Greek flavors, combining them to in a blend that is both sweet and pungent. The dips easily serve five, which makes them a steal at $8.50.

State and Allen also offers the more conventional short rib quesadillas. The brisket overwhelms the taste of the pico de gallo and cheese, but the quesadillas are still a worthwhile pick for those interested in meat. The appetizer will feed up to five people as well, or could double as an entree. At $8.95 the short rib quesadillas are safe bet that works well with any palate, or beverage.

The only real disappointment on the starter menu is the Cajun calamari. The squid is fried—no surprise there—but there is no Cajun flavoring. It has no pop. There’s no zest and therefore provides nothing special. If patrons are craving traditional calamari, this will suit them, but don’t expect anything exciting. It’s definitely not worth the $8.95. Take Cajun out of the name and the lower the price by two dollars and this appetizer becomes a bargain. Until that happens, I recommend the aforementioned dishes, which should be more than enough to keep you busy until your entrée arrives.