Articles about Andrew Chalk

Bolsa Mercado Goes Vegetarian at ‘Meet and Eat’

Comeback Creek heirloom tomatoes paired with Mionetto Proseco Treviso, NV. (photos by Melisa Oporto)

Bolsa execuchef Jeff Harris shows what he can do when you put him in a box. He comes out fighting! The mandate: prepare a vegetarian meal for 20 to be served at Bolsa Mercado’s communal table as part of their ‘Meet and Eat’ series that takes place on Friday evenings. The result? A menu that even a carnivore could love. Check out Melisa Oporto’s pictures for a feast for the eyes. Continue reading "Bolsa Mercado Goes Vegetarian at ‘Meet and Eat’"

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Report: Cakebread Cellars Tasting at Bijoux in Dallas

The effect of oak age. Cakebread Chardonnay (left) and Reserve Chardonnay (right). Note the deeper gold hues in the longer oak-aged wine.

Cakebread Cellars is one of the most respected wineries in California’s Napa Valley and I was honored to be a guest at a tasting of their wines hosted at Bijoux, Scott and Gina Gottlich’s restaurant, in Dallas this week. Located in the exclusive Rutherford area of the valley, Cakebread epitomizes wines that represent their place: valley floor fruit from central Napa Valley and cool climate fruit from Carneros at the southern end of the valley which is, in archetypal California contrarian fashion, also the coolest part of the valley on account of its proximity to cool air funneling north from San Francisco Bay.
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Chalk Talk: Kim Crawford Wine Dinner at Abacus in Dallas

Despite the 100-degree Monday night in July, Abacus Restaurant in Dallas was packed for  a tasting of Kim Crawford Wines from New Zealand.  Wine maker Anthony Walkenhorst brought the impressive wines; Abacus execuchef Aaron Studenmaier and Abbey Renager (pastry chef) produced impressive and complementary food. I was an invited guest and had a chance to interview him before the meal.

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French Wine Goes Off The Grid To Promote Itself In Dallas

View of Downtown Dallas from the second floor of Off The Grid.

I was an invited guest at an unusual promotion for French wine sponsored by Wines of France (that’s the French taxpayer, I think) on Friday night. First was the location: it was here. South of downtown, just off Ervay, next to the railroad tracks at the point where Google stops their street view efforts or I would have seen that their map wrongly shows Kelley Ave. emptying into Ervay. There was no problem parking right outside the place. Somebody had probably stolen the car that was previously there.

Second was the building. It is called Off The Grid because it is an old Dallas Power and Light substation building restored inside to transform it into an event space. The red brick walls have been scrubbed up and black stairways installed to allow easy movement between its three floors. It is all achingly cool (to the moderately fit).

Third, was the format of the progressive dinner. We would start on the ground floor and then eat successive courses on the second and third floors, before returning to ground for dessert.

Fourth was the method of invitation. Virtually every one of the approximately 70 attendees had heard about the event through social media. Wines of France is touring the country from New York, to Chicago, then San Francisco, and now a grand finale in Dallas. Locals who followed them on Facebook or Twitter got an invite to the Dallas event. The whole concept was managed by social media PR agency Lushlife. Although based out of NY, their account peep, Lindsey Johnson, grew up in Dallas so she knew the ‘lie of the land’, so to speak.

Finally were the food and wine peeps at the Dallas end. Lushlife picked Campo execuchef (and Daniel Bouloud student), Michael Ehlert to prepare the meal, and Del Frisco’s wine director, Jennifer Jaco to handle and describe the wines.

Jump for the details.

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Jacob’s Creek Introduces New Wines to Dallas

Pity the lot of Australian wine makers. The past few years have seen sales fall (19% from mid-2010 to mid-2011 alone) in response to a rising Australian currency and a debasement of the image of Australian wine by a flood of industrial grade ‘critter wines’ into the US market. Ironically, these trends have occurred at a time when the quality of the top 10% of Australian wine is arguably better than ever.

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Oceans of Prime at Ocean Prime

Blueberry Lemon Cheesecake, Peanut Butter Torte, Carrot Cake

This week Ocean Prime in Dallas held a media dinner to promote its new summer menu. Prior to attending, I knew its a steakhouse. I knew that the decor was upscale. But there were lots of things that I did not know. For instance, Ocean Prime  placed third on D Magazine’s 20 top steakhouses in 2011. It also has about as many seafood dishes on its menu as it does meat. And, very importantly, Ocean Prime changes its menu seasonally.

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Dallas Craft Beer Scene Gets Weird: Brew B Q Event at Deep Ellum Brewing Company

The craft beer scene is starting to hop! Recently Deep Ellum Brewing Company hosted a Brew B Q event in their brewing and beer patio. Could you imagine this get together happening in Victory Park rather than Deep Ellum? It’s all local Dallas beer, food, and people. (We don’t claim several of the necklaces.)  Look out Austin, Portland, and San Diego, we’re headed to the top of the list.

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Roots Juices’ is Freshly Pressed, Delivers to Dallas

Roots juices (courtesy of Roots)

Former stock broker Brent Rodgers and his company Roots Juices are ideally poised to cash in on the mainstream craze that is known as vegetable juicing. After leaving finance, Rodgers went on a year-long sabbatical travelling the world from South America to Australia. He discovered that people all over the world had discoverecd juicing. “I discovered juicing early on in my journey while in Peru. It was when I was on the Syria-Israel border that I had a light-bulb moment. There was this long line, which I thought was to get across the border. But it was actually for fresh celery and carrot juice. It was then that I realized this was a way of life and not just a trend,” he says.

Now he has a juicing plant in the Walnut Hill area of Dallas from which he and his employees turn out 10 flavors of juices that are, by almost any metric, exotic. Here are the flavors: Continue reading "Roots Juices’ is Freshly Pressed, Delivers to Dallas"

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Empa Mundo is an Empanada Gem in Irving

One thing that Irving residents know and do a darn good job of concealing from the rest of us is this: The town is patchwork quilt of ethnic culinary gems. From Indian markets to authentic Peruvian, and from Mexican tacquerias (with more choices of taco than you ever thought possible) to Honduran favorites – the choices are endless. If you want credible white tablecloth dining, head to the Four Seasons. But if you want a cornucopia of ethnic delights, start just one mile south on Belt Line Road.

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Central 214 Introduces Summer Menu

St. David’s Raclette

Central 214 execuchef Graham Dodds is delivering on his promise to change the menu seasonally. At a media event last week, he introduced his summer menu and the restaurant showed some progress on other fronts, too. First, the restaurant has a new manager, Sean Kenneavy. He has taken responsibility for one of the major problems I cited earlier, a lackluster wine list. He has substantially redone it with wines drawn more widely than the earlier incarnation of second-tier California offerings. There are now 20 wines by the glass, plus eight dessert wines, and over 100 by the bottle. Sixteen of the wines are sparkling and source from Champagne, California, Italy, and Spain. On the table wine list, France and South America have more representation, but Spain is missing. There are only two token Texans (Red Caboose Syrah/Malbec blend and their blend named ‘Some of That Red’). So consider the list a step in the right direction with room for further improvement.

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Chalk Talk: Pappas Bros Hosts All American Wines Tasting

2009 Sandstone Cellars

Last Friday, Pappas Bros. Steakhouse in Dallas held the latest in their monthly wine tasting series. This one was themed All-American Wines,which consisted of wines from across the country and included some of the states that you don’t normally think of as wine producers. As a result, there were wines from Connecticut, Virginia, and Arizona as well as California, Washington, and Texas.

Below, I picked 4 of the best from the selection of 13 wines. The choice of two Texas wines is not a hometown bias, these really are good examples from the state. The Virginia and Texas wines are available via the wineries’ web sites. The California wines is available through local area wine merchants. To hear about Pappas Bros. monthly wine tastings sign up on their web site.

Missing from the pictures is the 2011 Duchman Family Winery Dolcetto, Texas. Continue reading "Chalk Talk: Pappas Bros Hosts All American Wines Tasting"

Sushi Axiom Offers New Menu

Strawberry Stars with fresh mint and strawberry (left); Crab Puffer with three crispy wonton skins (right) photos by Melisa Oporto

Sushi Axiom on Henderson in Dallas has new owners and a new menu. Last night they hosted a media tasting event to show some of their new dishes. Highlights included a ‘Crab Puffer’ (crispy wonton skins with a filling of crab, cream cheese, and onion) that many could call crab Rangoon. The filling was sublime. Cucumber sunomono–thin slices of cucumber in rice wine dressing with a slice of octopus and a shrimp–was also outstanding. Tuna was served two ways: One with Cajun tuna nigiri accompanied by toro nigiri. We asked for, and got, some pickled ginger which got amazing applause in its own right as well as being a good match with the tasty tuna. Jump for more. Continue reading "Sushi Axiom Offers New Menu"

New Menu at The Chesterfield and Bailey’s Fairview. Patrizio’s Osteria to Open in Southlake

Ed Bailey in happier meal days. (Photo by Elizabeth Lavin.)

A mixed bag of news from a recent media event at Bailey’s Prime Plus:

Few Dallas restaurants have generated as much news per square foot as The Chesterfield. They’ve certainly had their high and low moments, but for now they’ve set a new strategy in place to keep it open and, hopefully, thriving. Lucky Campbell is still the main mixologist and he’s totally committed to making this place rock. He and co-owner Ed Bailey have kissed made up. Chef Ryan Carbery was recently transferred from Avner Samuel’s Nosh to the execuchef role at Bailey’s Prime Plus Carberry has also taken over the responsibility for the menu at The Chesterfield. I obtained a copy of it and have posted it below. Most items are new, but popular items remained on the menu. Expect to see the menu in the next two weeks.

News also, from Bailey’s Prime Plus in Fairview. As part of its refactoring as a family-affordable steak house to reflect the demographic of that area, they’ve added a children’s menu with a difference. Instead of the usual list of popular kiddy dishes, it will be geared toward healthier items for children. Watch for this change in the next three months.

Finally, good news for the residents of Southlake: Patrizio’s will open in the late summer but it will be named Patrizio’s Osteria and feature gourmet pizzas and a separate menu of dishes made with 100% Italian ingredients (i.e. imported from Italy) that will “make foodies proud.” This is a welcome addition to an area where the restaurants should be good, but are atrociously boring.

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Pyramid Restaurant and Bar Introduces Their Summer Menu

Foie gras torchon with apricots, marmalade, pickled blackberries, brioche (photos by Melisa Oporto)

I know summer has arrived when the temperature goes higher than my IQ and restaurants announce their summer menus.  This week, one of my favorites, The Pyramid Restaurant and Bar at The Fairmont Dallas, held a media event to showcase their summer menu and I was fortunate to be among the guests.

Many local restaurants are creating  summer menus with an emphasis on the abundance of local produce. However,  The Fairmont holds an advantage over other restaurants because they have a large and extensive garden on the hotel’s  rooftop. You can actually go up to the sixth floor and walk past the beds where the plants grow. At the dinner, execuchef André Natera exploited this advantage right out of the starting gate. He picked the blackberries that he included in his amuse-bouche, of grilled apricot, foie gras torchon with apricot marmalade, pickled blackberry, and brioche.

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Hey Bartender: Rocco Milano Makes an Amaretto Stone Sour

Mixologist Rocco Milano at Private Social demonstrates how to make an Amaretto Stone Sour. Rocco is one of 10 mixologists representing Dallas at Tales of The Cocktail in New Orleans next month.

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First Look: Chef Vijay Sadhu Opens Pepper Smash In Plano

Chef Vijay Sadhu doesn’t let anything like a failed restaurant concept keep him down. When his innovative, yet unpopular, Sutra, the modern Indian cuisine restaurant at the The Shops at Legacy closed, he gathered new ideas and investors and opened Pepper Smash, A Cocktail Kitchen. Sadhu reworked the Sutra interior, 86ed the Indian food, added an extensive mixology program, up-tempo music, and a snazzy website. The food is Modern American with a Mediterranean twist.

Recently I attended a tasting event for the media and many dishes we tried (seemingly the whole menu) were impeccably prepared. I have said it before but will repeat it again: Sadhu’s greatest strength is his ability to wring every ounce of flavor out of the ingredients he choses. So pick a protein, like chicken, that could be bland and put it in Sadhu’s hands. He grills it until the flavors of the Maillard reaction http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maillard_reaction emerge and balances them with tahini sauce.

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Chalk Talk: Hourglass Wines Tasting at Private Social

Jeff Smith, the owner of California wine producer Hourglass, knows how to play a room. He was in town to lead a tasting of his wines at Private Social in Uptown. The audience was, for the most part, wine customers on his list. His casual but expert public speaking manner comes from years of  marketing in the liquor industry, much of it spent establishing the Skyy vodka brand. That is where he would have likely stayed had his mother not called him one day in the early 1990s to announce that she had decided to sell the family vineyard. The death of her husband had made the work necessary to replant it too strenuous.

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2012 Southwest Foodservice Expo Report: Nielsen-Massey Fine Vanillas

Andrew Chalk chats with Beth Bizegaio of Nielsen-Massey Fine Vanillas about the slow, cold extraction of vanilla beans.

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2012 Southwest Foodservice Expo Report: Nue, A New Texas Vodka

Former professional paintball players now make smooth vodka in Lewisville, Texas.

Chalk Talk: Guess the Fruit


Can you guess its name? Clue: It is on display at the Southwest Foodservice Expo at the FreshPoint booth.

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