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Momo's Fettuccine Alla Santalloro. (Photography by Kevin Marple)

Most Underrated Restaurant in Dallas List: MoMo Italian Kitchen on Forest Lane

In the May issue of D Magazine, I reviewed Momo Italian Kitchen Restaurant on Forest Lane. You may have already read the review, but I bring it up here for two reasons: I forgot to bring it up here in May, and I keep thinking about my experience and I want to go back. That does not happen as often as I’d like. Maybe it was just one of those magical nights when the food and friends and wine aligned to create an intimate, memorable evening. It could happen any time at any restaurant.

But in the case of MoMo, I can still taste the food. The ris in cagnon, a traditional wedding dish from Northern Italy made with nutty Carnaroli rice stirred with Grana Padano cheese and topped with tender veal rolls stuffed with herbs and cheese, was superb. As was the bresaola (thinly sliced cured beef) with olive oil and lemon and a plate of Italian cheeses. Every time I see a pea, I think of MoMo’s side of crisp cream peas mixed with prosciutto.

I have several delightful bottles of Italian wine not far from my work space at home. Sometimes I find myself gazing at them and thinking about calling a friend and having them meet me on the patio at MoMo’s. The one on Forest Lane. It is going on my list of Underrated Restaurants in Dallas alongside Canary by Gorji and Zen Sushi.