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Restaurant Review: Village Kitchen

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Chef Andre Natera. (Photography by Kevin Marple)

Like many a Park Cities society maven, sometimes all you need is a little nip and tuck to feel refreshed. Such is the case with the newly rechristened Village Kitchen. Formerly known as Marquee Grill, the Highland Park Village restaurant opened to much press and middling reviews in 2011. Sure, the place was glamorous. And, yes, it had formerTop Chef contestant Tre Wilcox working in the kitchen. But nothing clicked. The food—a mishmash of Texas, Southern, and Asian flavors—was inconsistent and void of identity. Wilcox eventually left to be a restaurant consultant. The Marquee needed both a new chef and new direction. Enter former Pyramid Restaurant chef André Natera. His new menu at Village Kitchen is littered with every trend of the past two years: lobster rolls, deviled eggs, kale salad, mac and cheese. Sure, it reads contrived. But