Find a back issue

Restaurant Review: Dish in Dallas

Chef Garreth Dickey has created one of the city’s best menus.

While several high-profile local chefs have been hogging the headlines, chef Garreth Dickey has quietly created one of the finest menus in town. Dickey—whose résumé includes stints at Star Canyon, the original Green Room, Jeroboam, The Porch, and Hibiscus—now deserves his turn in the spotlight. Between the Caesar salad, scallops, and New York strip on his menu are dozens of inventive and palate-pushing items, such as his cauliflower steak. It’s an ingenious vegetarian concoction of grilled cauliflower, cipollini onions, Calabrese peppers, black radish, and kale mixed with a brown butter sauce studded with golden raisins. Under Dickey’s touch, a thick pork chop, brined overnight, is grilled, topped with soft chunks of apples and diced red onions, and finished with a bourbon glaze spiced with star anise.

Follow me.