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Eat This Now: the Biscuits at Jack’s Southern Comfort Food

Open faced biscuit with Jimmy’s sausage gravy with roasted peppers, caramelized onions, and grilled mushrooms with fries.

These days, all I want are biscuits. Biscuits topped, loaded, and bursting with gravy. A recent soul-searching trip to Jack’s Southern Comfort Food, which opened quietly along Greenville Avenue on October 1, with our photography intern, Melisa Oporto, fixed this problem in a jiffy. Halle-biscuit-lujah.

The outside (left); green onions in a jar decor (right)

I am very particular about my biscuits. I typically like mine smaller, about palm-sized, and compact (the kind best eaten with sorghum syrup). But owner Scott Jones’ biscuits are actually none of these. His are extra fluffy in the middle with a golden crunch around the edges. They’re pretty sturdy, too, because executive chef Terance Jenkins tops his biscuits with heavy ingredients, like Jimmy’s sausage gravy or thick, luscious bechamel sauce.

“I spent about six months testing those [biscuit] recipes,” says Jones. Even though he won’t give away his secrets, he tells me that he mixes delicate premium flours (like King Arthur flours) with pure butter, Vital Farms jumbo organic eggs, and pure buttermilk in a regular mixing bowl. After cutting the dough by hand into small batches, they try to cook as many of the biscuits they can in a cast iron to get the hearty biscuits Jenkins serves on large platters. To be honest, the biscuit platters aren’t pretty. The upside down smoked chicken pot pie with carrots and peas is slathered in bechamel sauce, and it looks like something random and messy is splattered on top of the biscuit. The same goes with the open faced biscuit with Jimmy’s sausage gravy, roasted peppers, caramelized onions, and grilled mushroom. Not a beautiful sight, either. But you don’t go to Jack’s expecting everything to look like a plate on Top Chef. You go for the biscuits – dense and fluffy as they are.

But, really, the Texasian salad that came with the upside down smoked chicken pot pie stole the show. When chef Jenkins came by our table for the second time to ask how we were doing, he told me he used a sesame-based vinaigrette for his cole slaw, which was a mixture of cucumber, carrots, and radishes lightly dressed. Amazing.

Upside down smoked chicken pot pie

Jack’s also sells gourmet to-go items in its deli section. Pick up some cold fried chicken, stuffed meatballs, or pimento cheese while you’re there.

  • Samantha

    That would be green onions in a jar.

  • Lanie_Lou

    I’m not sure if it concerns me more that you are a food writer and can’t tell the difference between celery and scallions or the fact that both you and Jack’s think eggs belong in biscuits.

  • Carol Shih

    Thanks for pointing out the scallions. It’s also the day before Thanksgiving and my brain is on holiday.

  • Ray

    Great Post Carol. Now I am craving biscuits like crazy!!

  • nicefoodie

    Thanks for the post Carol, as messy as it looks, they look awesome! On another note, I understand freedom of speech and all that, but why do people have to be so nasty? Just point out the fact that needs to be corrected and be gracious about it. Good Lord, life is too short people, be kind. Have a great Thanksgiving and thanks for what you do!

  • Peter Kurilecz

    okay this is on my to-do list for my Christmas trip

  • the Janitor

    Just tried it – loved it, will be back soon. BTW the chef/owner’s pedigree includes the Screen Door and Cafe Italia.