Like taking the lid off a simmering pot of pure Texas, Olenjack’s Grille unveils an approach to contemporary chargrilling that embodies all the hat and cattle those other guys seem to have missed. Less salt dependent than its country cousins, the restaurant—helmed by chef-owner Brian Olenjack—relies instead on goat cheese, roasted garlic, and grits as resonant as a Sunday sermon. The menu is a gastronomic ramble, starting with grilled lamb lollipops over sweet-potato polenta and finding its way home to hatch-marked meats that are as mature and reliable as a firm handshake.2 Comments »
My editor and sometimes friend, Tim Rogers, talks like he’s a really tough guy. He so tough he doesn’t sit at his desk, he has his computer table elevated and he stands all day. Like I said, he’s tough. But I’ll let you in on a secret: Tim likes to cook fancy food. And he brings the leftovers in and eats them for lunch. Yesterday he told me he took his wife and another couple to Sushi Sake in Richardson. He raved about the sushi and the service. He doesn’t think there is a better sushi restaurant in Dallas. I told him I’d ask you guys what the best sushi spot is in Dallas. Tim wants to go there.