Articles for December, 2011
Top Twelve Bites I Put in My Mouth in 2011
Mi Dia: The best bite I put in my mouth in 2011.
There’s a common sentiment among restaurant critics: We have to eat a lot of poor quality and mediocre food before we taste something memorable. But, oh baby, when that over-the-top bite hits your mouth, you know you’ve found it. Something about the drink, dish, or dessert pushes it above the hundreds of thousands of other bites you’ve taken over the year.
The following items rocked my senses in 2011. In no particular order, and off the top of my head, they are:
- Italian “English” muffins at Eatzi’s. (Extra points for the McCutcheon’s preserves.)
- The Scarf Dancer cocktail at Marquee Grill and Bar.
- Fried avocados at The Commissary.
- Ox eyes stacked enchiladas at Mi Dia From Scratch. (Blue corn tortillas, beef, cheese, and onion enchiladas, topped with New Mexico red & green chile sauces, crema & fried eggs. (The best bite of the year.)
- Lemon cake at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse.
- Steamed swordfish with a salad of fresh summer greens at Lucia.
- The salad of chopped iceberg lettuce, diced tomatoes, crumbled blue cheese, avocado, and crispy prosciutto at Maggiano’s. (A good chopped salad is hard to find.)
- A double-double animal-style burger at In-N-Out Burger. However, the fries are forgettable.
- I got straight past the pizza and Cane Rosso and dive face first into a Cuban sandwich: a magnificent mess of tender Berkshire pork shoulder braised with beer and onions; layered with prosciutto, baby Swiss cheese, and horseradish pickles; and piled on puffy, hot bread spread with spicy mustard and Calabrian chile aioli.
- The green curry chicken served in an iron pot at Malai Kitchen.
- The charcuterie plate at The Grape.
- The slow-cooked oxtail scented with hoja santa and served with a cob of roasted corn and masa dumplings at Mesa.
Most Pleasant Meal of the Year: Dinner at Lavendou. Sometimes the taste of the food is elevated by the overall dining experience. Usually it happens spontaneously. One cold, rainy evening I went to dinner at Lavendou with two dear friends. The dining room was crowded and festive, but not loud. The service was friendly, but not in-your-face. The food was delicious and the French wine stimulated our conversation for hours. We left full of more than food. We shared a meal that was more than just a sum of its parts on a cold, rainy Monday night.
7 Comments »What To Drink Now: New Year’s Eve Bubbly
The go to drink on Saturday night will be bubbly, as it is the drink of celebrations, to toast special occasions and, for many like me, an ideal option for starting and ending any night. If you are looking for a few great bottles to ring in 2012 in style consider one of these ranging in both price range and flavor profiles, and on sale in pretty much every wine shop, liquor store and specialty shop in town. Some selections were sent for editorial consideration. Cheers to a great New Year!
Laurent-Perrier Brut Millésimé 2002 – A vintage bubbly from the heart of Champagne, only made in exceptional years when the grapes show they are substantial enough to stand on their own in a vintage Champagne, instead of blending with several vintages to create the most widely seen NV (non-vintage). 2002 was the best in Champagne since 1996, another year for great vintage bubbles. Crisp and elegant, quite reflective of the Laurent-Perrier house style. 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, creating an initially fruit forward Champagne that opens to a well-rounded, citrus fruit and toasted brioche palate. Continue reading "What To Drink Now: New Year’s Eve Bubbly"
3 Comments »Food Feedback Friday
Dishers, where did you dine and what did you eat this week? Any holiday meal reports? Here is what you reported last week.
Dear DFW Sommeliers, Please Make This New Year’s Resolution…
Several local sommeliers deserve special recognition for their efforts. The industry standard used by wine consumers is the Wine Spectator award system. As I dine around, I am amazed to learn that too many restaurants do not submit their list to Wine Spectator or make small changes to their list in an effort to move up to the next level.
The Wine Spectator‘s Awards deadline is Feb. 1st, 2012. I urge anyone responsible for the wine program in a restaurant to get the presentation of your list into shape now and get the professional recognition that your work deserves!
Here are the guidelines and entry forms. Jump for more information.
Continue reading "Dear DFW Sommeliers, Please Make This New Year’s Resolution…"
5 Comments »Trader Joe’s Announces Two New Locations: Dallas and Plano
According to Teresa “Gumbshoe” Gubbins, a representative for Trader Joe’s told the told the DMN a store will open in the old Arcadia Theater space on Lower Greenville Avenue in the fall of 2012. A Plano location, in an old Kroger at Preston and Park, will open in the spring. The Fort Worth store at 2701 South Hulen Street and a location in a the Woodlands near Houston will open this spring. I have not been able to confirm the rumor that developer Ray Washburne plans to move the Santa Monica Pier to Highland Park Village.
13 Comments »Report on Private Social in Dallas: Lunch at Tiffany’s
Surf n’ Turf Sushi Roll, Spicy Tuna, Torched Beef, Ponzu and Truffle
Private Social, where former Top Chef cheftestant Tiffany Derry hangs her toque, has just started lunch service. To publicize the new menu, they held a media event and I was among the invited guests.
There is a tony ambiance to this place located on McKinney, one of the busiest blocks in Uptown (valet parking recommended). The decor is done in tones of earthy grey and burnished metal. The name of the restaurant reflects the division of the interior space into two rooms. ‘Social’ is the bar and an open area for casual drinking and dining at café-style tables. ‘Private’ is a the cozier room on the side that creates a environment for more serious dining. We were seated on the private side. Continue reading "Report on Private Social in Dallas: Lunch at Tiffany’s"
2 Comments »2011′s Last Week of Food Trucks in Dallas. Food Truck News and December 27 Schedule
Big D NYE Dallas
The largest event for Dallas area food trucks is set for a big New Year’s Eve bash at Victory Park/AAC. Big D NYE Dallas will include City Street Grille, Gandolfo’s NY Deli, Nammi, Ssahm, and The Butcher’s Son. The trucks have been told to expect upwards of 45,000 people.
WFAA Daybreak Truck Powered by Gandolfo’s NY Deli
A new food truck will come in the scene to support WFAA’s morning program. WFAA is using the food truck buzz as part of their Daybreak program. The truck is essentially a Gandolfo’s breakfast menu truck, but wrapped in Daybreak clothing.
Shops at Park Lane
Multiple food trucks continue to stop at the Shops at Park Lane. We stopped by last Friday and found it to be the best opportunity to try different trucks. New trucks Easy Slider, Rock ‘n’ Roll Tacos, and Four Seasons will be there, along with many “established” trucks. If we have great weather, and less mall traffic, get out and see what food trucks are about.
More News
Expect a flurry of Mid-Cities and Ft. Worth trucks and trailers to hit Dallas as the new regulations allowing retrofit trucks and trailers to take effect. So-Cal Taco’s Scott Wooley has already submitted his plans.
With that, we bring you this week’s schedule. As always, food trucks move and break. Remember: “Weather Permitting”. Jump for the schedule. 1 Comment »
New Year’s Eve and Day Dining in Dallas
Look for a place to celebrate the end of 2011? Or perhaps you’re more optimistic and plan to ring in 2012. Either way, we’ve got an alphabetical list to help you plan your merry way. They’re all down below. See you there.
Ed. Note 12.28.11: Check out our updated list.
Continue reading "New Year’s Eve and Day Dining in Dallas"
Yes, Reservations: A Guide to Holiday Dining in Dallas and Fort Worth
My family dined out for Thanksgiving, and we were all very grateful to succumb to a tryptophan-induced coma without having to bother with a sink full of dishes. Restaurants: an truly amazing invention. Some of them will be open to feed you and yours for Christmas. Jump for the list. Continue reading "Yes, Reservations: A Guide to Holiday Dining in Dallas and Fort Worth"
Food Feedback Friday
Dishers, where did you dine and what did you eat this week? Here is what you reported last week.
Top Chef: Texas, Episode 8 Recap
Loren Means has a lot of different jobs here at D Magazine. Only one is writing the recaps of Top Chef: Texas. I thank her for her volunteer spirit. Now let’s get it on.
And then there were 10. Are they the “Top 10” ? I’m not sure. Ed reminded us last week: “It’s not always the best chef that makes it to the end. I mean you can have a hiccup one night and that’s it. You’re gone.” I think we’ve witnessed that every season. When a certain chef gets cut, you feel outraged and want to scream “INJUSTICE! Not him! Take me! Oh wait, I’m at home eating Ramen. I cannot save him. I can only pick a new favorite.”
Luckily, my favorite, Paul, has been a front runner since the gates opened. I still have a horse in this race and he’s headed to his hometown of Austin, Texas in this episode along with Edward, Ty, Chris J., Chris C., Sarah, Heather, Beverly, Lindsay and Grayson.
Let’s get weird. Continue reading "Top Chef: Texas, Episode 8 Recap"
5 Comments »Restaurant Review: Terilli’s in Dallas
Shrimp scampi and the restaurant's interior. (photography by Kevin Marple)
When Jeannie Terilli opened this spot in 1985, it was an instant success. The bar was always mobbed, and there were long waits for tables. Live jazz pulled in a mixed bag of customers who spilled out onto the sidewalk. After Terilli’s was destroyed by a fire in March 2010, many industry insiders speculated Terilli would not rebuild. They were wrong. And I’m glad she did. The interior of the rebuilt Terilli’s is spectacular. There are now three levels of seating, including a rooftop with fantastic views of downtown Dallas. The walls are painted black and contrast nicely with the charred, rusty brown exposed brick. The only thing that hasn’t changed is the food.
Finish it here. Then tell me if you like Terilli’s.
What To Drink Now: Holiday Spirits
Why not give them what they really want for Christmas this year….the gift of spirits. Let’s face it, spirits are the one thing you are almost guaranteed won’t be re-gifted, and if your timing is right, you can often enjoy them too. Here are some favorites that are sure to bring joy and glee to their recipient, a few selections were sent for editorial consideration.
Scotch, Bourbon and Whisky -
A good single malt will show even the most persnickety just how much you care, and if you are looking for the best go straight to The Macallan Single Malt Scotch Whiskey. Created in Speyside since 1824 bringing in smoky layers of earthiness into their smooth, distinct and complex scotch. My personal favorite is the Macallan 18 Sherry Cask Single Malt, aged for 18 years in Spanish oak casks previously seasoned with sherry, creating intense, layered flavors of caramel, orange peel and spice. A perfect introductory scotch would be The Macallan 12, with some of the same spice and caramel characteristics, just a bit lighter. Shopping tip – I found this the other day at the liquor store attached to the new Sam’s at Northwest Highway and Skillman for less than $40 a bottle, no membership needed.
Continue reading "What To Drink Now: Holiday Spirits"
Let’s Talk Boxing Day in Dallas!
Hey, hosers! How’s it going, eh? What are your plans for Boxing Day? Betcha Yanks a toonie you didn’t know SideDish is freakin’ huge in Canada! Yep, it’s true, eh? Last time I was in Toronto (Toronnah) I spied some Canadian idiot sporting a toque (two-k) with a big red D on it! My brother-in-law went all Don Cherry on me and said the D stood for Detroit (dee-troi-e-ot). What else would you expect from a pansy Red Wings fan? (Q: What do you call 5 Detroit Red Wings players standing ear to ear? A: A wind tunnel!)
I love Boxing Day, the first business day after Christmas. All of Ontario closes and we sit on the chesterfield and chow down on donuts, beer, macaroni and cheese, and watch hockey. The NHL pretty much owns Canada on Boxing Day now. They have TEN GAMES scheduled. My friend’s mum puts out (uhoot) a hellofa buffet (boo-fay). And k.d. lang always sends me a fruit cake. Go Leafs! (Q: Why don’t the Leafs drink tea? A: Because the Canadiens have all the cups.) And hello Peterborough!
9 Comments »Graham Dodds is New Chef at Central 214 in Dallas
Chef Graham Dodds has pig--I mean big--plans for Central 214.
Former Bolsa chef Graham Dodds is the new executive chef at Central 214. He replaces Blythe Beck who left the fancy digs at the Hotel Palomar in late August. Dodds’ farm-to-table philosophy is a perfect fit for the direction management wants to steer the hotel’s restaurant. (Hah!) After his departure from Bolsa in mid-September, Dodds considered doing his own thing with an investor. “I loved being a part of the Oak Cliff community and watching it grow,” Dodds said in September. “But I have a five-year-old daughter and a mortgage to pay.” It looks like a steady gig with benefits turned out to be the better decision. He starts his reign on Monday.
Once he’s up and running, you can expect the buzzwords to roll: locally sourced ingredients, classic farm-to-table cooking, marathon-running chickens, artisanal baked-with-hypersensitive-heat breads, free-range bees with PhDs, penthouse-raised pork, unmolested meat, and “wholesome family” cheese with both parents, curds and whey. Sorry, I got carried away while waiting for a callback from Graham.
Ring, ring. H-h-hello? “Hi Nancy, it’s Graham. I am so excited,” Dodds says. “It’s a great fit. I’ve worked with a lot of people who have worked with this company [Kimpton Hotels] and everybody has great things to say about them.” Although nothing has been decided, there has been some talk of renaming the place and reworking the interior. [Although the name wasn't originally intended to represent farm-to-table, it kinda works with Dodds' cooking.]
“Graham, please don’t speak in press release,” I say. “I want to know what you are going to do with your bee hives? What floor will they be on?” [Dodds has made his own honey from his 20 hives for years.]
“Well my bees are way down this year,” Dodds says with a tear in his voice. “I’m down to 3 hives. I moved them to Eden Creek Farms and a neighbor did some crop dusting and I think it may have drifted over.”
“How in the hell are you going to make up for that loss?”
“Well, I plan to delve into nose-to-tail cooking,” Dodds said. “It’s something I’ve always wanted to explore.”
Fill in your own kicker here.
2 Comments »A Girl Walks Into a Bar: Bolla Bar at the Stoneleigh Hotel in Dallas
The Red Heart. (Photography by Elizabeth Lavin)
Each month, Moira Muldoon walks into a bar and writes about it. Here’s her look at the Bolla Bar at the Stoneleigh Hotel. Gotta tip for Muldoon? Leave it below.
At first glance, the Bolla Bar at the Stoneleigh Hotel is borderless. It’s hard to tell if you’re in the lobby or actually in the bar itself—or if somehow you’re in both at once. People wheel suitcases through. The sparkling chandeliers and the plush satin seating wrap around square marble columns and convey opulence and elegance. The smooth arch of the bar itself, a wooden semicircle, a proscenium of sorts, is lovely.
Rooms at the Stoneleigh start at $219, and the service at the bar is solid, the way you’d expect from a high-end hotel with a much-vaunted art deco style and a list of whites by the glass that start at $8 (happy hour wines are $5). When my glass neared empty, a server appeared. Water was refilled consistently, unobtrusively. My friend drank cosmopolitans, remarking that each was different in taste and texture and that each was good.
7 Comments »“Honey, You Get the Pie.” Buying Holiday Pie in Dallas
Every year, I get the same command: “Honey, you get the pie.” Last year, I failed miserably. I asked you where to go. Here is what you suggested. I got an early start on 2011 by tasting my way through your list of suggestions.I set out on my pie trek, using your suggestions as a guide post. I found my pie nirvana at Little Aprons Bakery. Read more about my gluttonous adventures through Little Aprons, Central Market, Normas, and more.
Little Aprons' cherry pie
SideDish contributor Daniel Walker also helped. He wrote about apple pie: “The Place at Perry’s brown-bag apple pie is quite possibly the greatest pie to have ever graced my lips.” More recently, Daniel told us about Scrumbscious Pie in Mesquite where he found fresh baked pies and “pie shakes.”
Yesterday, I got the command. The pie is my job. I’m wavering on which route to go. Am I missing something? Please help me–and potentially yourself–by tossing in your thoughts.
5 Comments »Margaux’s Bridge Bistro is Open for Buisness
Kay Agnew sends word: her new restaurant, Margaux’s Bridge Bistro, is open. Agnew moved her Marguax’s Restaurant down the street to 921 N. Riverfront. She continues to do catering and offers a party space called the Twilight Room. The menu includes breakfast, soups, salads, snacks, and creative coffee drinks. Full menu here.
Dallas Food Gift Guide: Celebrate the Holidays With Food Made in DFW
This holiday season I would like to devote some time and energy to supporting local small food businesses. This post is dedicated to spotlighting those who make food-related items one can purchase for gifts or serve at a gathering. If you make jelly, jam, chocolate, aprons, coffee cake, ham, table linen, turkey, casserole, wine opener, olive oil, brownie or any other groovy food item, send me an email with your information and a picture if you have one. Only products made in the DFW area or close by. The list will be updated daily.
Jump for for the joy of the season. Continue reading "Dallas Food Gift Guide: Celebrate the Holidays With Food Made in DFW"
17 Comments »What To Drink Now: Miner Family Winery
Many years ago at the then Sense nightclub (now Victor Tango’s) I was introduced to Miner Family Wine from Napa Valley. It was a Sangiovese, not the typical grape from Napa, served by the glass and filled with cherry, spice and a hint of vanilla. From that moment I was a fan, making Miner one of my first stops on my initial trip to Napa, and now a must visit every trip since, tasting great wine and creating wonderful memories with friends and family along the way.
I recently sat down with owner Dave Miner while visiting the valley to get his perspective on the industry, his wine and plans for the future.
Continue reading "What To Drink Now: Miner Family Winery"
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