This opulent cafe, opened in early summer by Dale Wamstad (Del Frisco’s), proposed to add an all-American dining option to a much-neglected corner of Richardson. What arrived instead feels both overconceived and underwhelming: a two-story design hodgepodge of hot-air-balloon-shaped chandeliers, looming artwork, vinyl tablecloths, and hundreds of red-and-green LED lights that swoop, discotheque style, across diners’ faces. Likewise, the menu consists of a blind-man’s mix of appetizers (flatbreads, sushi, onion rings, and grilled quail’s nest—grilled quail served on a bed of crushed potato chips), followed by an equally chaotic mix of entrées. We were so surprised that any establishment would feature chopped beefsteak with grilled onions (and charge $14.50 for it) that we had to order it. The entrée arrived unironically, a disc of ground beef held together by grease and fear—a sad homage to the Greek diners of the 1970s.