Restaurant Review: The Commissary at One Arts Plaza in Dallas

Dripping cheese by Kevin Marple.

In the October issue of D Magazine, Teresa Gubbins tells us what she thinks about The Commissary.

In a profession loaded with bad boys, chef John Tesar stands out. Mercurial, dismissive, he’s a hyperactive hothead with a self-destructive streak so legendary that his old pal Anthony Bourdain has written about it. Tesar is so good at embodying the tantrum-throwing temperamental-chef stereotype that D Magazine made him the subject of the September cover story, titled “The Most Hated Chef in Dallas.”

But there is the man, and then there is what he puts on the plate. From his early days at a French restaurant called Pierre’s in Westhampton to his stint at RM Seafood in Las Vegas, he has impressed discriminating palates, including the folks who hired him in 2006 to be executive chef at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek, where he took on the intimidating task of replacing longtime fixture Dean Fearing.

She’s got a lot more tosay.

8 comments on “Restaurant Review: The Commissary at One Arts Plaza in Dallas

  1. Had the “Lobster Bake” at The Commissary on Sunday…. overall a good afternoon. However one thing I did find very interesting was the sausage served with potatoes,family style, during the lobster bake was 100% Hillshire Farms smoke sausage or a very close competitor.

    I just found it very interesting that the farm-to-table concept stopped off at Alberstons (maybe US Foods) for a little smoke sausage.

    I would love to understand the idea behind that!

  2. Ate there last night. Dallas burger was a delight. Fries were fantastic. Watermelon salad was wonderful. Veggie burger was, was, well TG said it all (can you say vomit on this blog?). Service was super, but the hidden gem was the Mac and Cheese. As I was leaving I took one look at it being served to someone else -lost all self-respect and begged a bite from their plate (skillet actually). It was a good loss – self respect ain’t all its cracked up to be when great food is around; I’ll return soon for a full skillet of the best Mac and Cheese I think I’ve ever eaten (maybe with another Dallas burger on the side along with one of their sweet and tart homemade lemonades).

  3. How many times are you going to review this place? There are a million other restaurants that are available for review or press and all you do is talk about this restaurant. Me, I like it. But this place has been on the freaking website everyday since it opened. Seriously, give it a break. Or, hmm, maybe Tesar has won this game. He actually figured out how to have a burger joint be the darling of the press everyday, all day and night. Move on please.. it’s a burger..(a good one John btw)

  4. Good burgers, but 2 burgers, 2 sides, 2 beers…$60-70…$5parking….too expensive for a burger joint.

  5. Good story, but I had to take a Lipitor after looking at the above photo. I’m beginning to get some feeling back in my arm…