If we’ve learned one thing about chef John Tesar this summer it’s that he is ambitious. His original vision of The Commissary as a casual burger joint with a higher end restaurant “on the side” seemed to be a doomed deal. His original chef’s tasting menu offered at The Table was closed this summer.
But hope springs eternal with Tesar. Hark, on September 20, he will debut One Art, a limited-seating restaurant featuring a “farm-to-table menu items served a la carte.” The 12-person capacity restaurant will be open Tuesday through Saturday for two seatings: 6:30 p.m. and 8:30 by reservation only.
Hey John, what’s the deal? “Our new concept is dedicated to the passion and the art of cooking. We will be using as many local and seasonal products as possible to create interesting and inspiring cuisine five nights per week. That is the essence of One Art.”
Essence aside, Tesar will also serve a 3-course fixed menu which will change weekly. After dinner, guests can choose from an artisian cheese selection or a variety of Tesar’s wife Tracy’s pies or other sweet treats like chocolate soufflé or grapefruit gratin. Apps run $13-$15 while entrees are in the $20- $29 range.
A sample menu is below. I’m checking on the wine program. Reservations: 469-600-4660.
UPPITY DATE: From sommelier Scott Barber: One Art will share the extensive wine list with The Commissary which was designed with The Table’s fine dining menu in mind. It features many exciting cutting edge wines you won’t find anywhere else in town at one of the lowest markups in the city. Pairings will be available but due to the a la carte nature of the menu it will focus more on bottles and half bottles (white for apps, red for mains, selection of sweet wines, ports, sherries and vermouths for cheese/salumi). Corkage policy will be the same, Sunday-Wednesday, $20 per 750ml bottle not on the list. See the wine list/website for details. While One Art won’t be open on Monday, the Retail Monday program will remain with half price glasses and retail pricing on all bottles (approx 40% off list). Of course, I’ll be working the room to help guests find the right wines for their menu/taste/budget.
One Art Menu
Charred baby octopus with Texas ruby grapefruit frisse and fines herbs 13
Iberico pork with sherry braised mission figs Marcona almond dust and Spicer micro clippings 15
Gulf crab gratin on grilled toast with herb hollandaise
Mackerel crudo with tomato compote caper relish and pecorino shards 14
Monterey bay baby squid stir fry 13
Salad of Watercress persimmon and pomegranate with Brazos Valley blue 12
Beef cheek and chicken liver ravioli with crispy sweetbreads and Parmesan Monte 26
Toasted potato gnocchi with braised short ribs braised fall vegetable and red wine gastric 28
Slow roasted salmon sous vide white asparagus nuts and seeds, blood orange emulsion 29
Crispy pork belly, griddled heirloom tomato, truffle scented pork brodo and collard greens 24
Pig’s ear Milanese fried duck egg, green tomato chutney , wild arugula and white balsamic gastric 23
Simple roast chicken, chicken liver soft scrambled egg ,celery leaf panzanella salad 26
Alaskan halibut poached in almond milk and clover honey, with celery root puree almond foam and shaved almonds 29
Seared beef tongue, seasonal salad ,caramelized red onion and salsa verde 22
Artisan cheese selection: Inverness, Fourme dAmbert, Comté Reserve des Granges, grilled empire raisin walnut bread 16
Poached Texas peach with Tahitian vanilla ice cream short bread crumbles and Spanish sherry 8
“Apple pie” and cinnamon ice cream 8
Grapefruit gratin with pink peppercorn and rose champagne sabyon. 10
Chocolate souffle with chocolate ice cream 12
Service charge: 17%
Corkage: $25 per bottle. $45 per magnum.
Our produce, meat, poultry, and fish come from farms, ranches, and fisheries guided by principles of sustainability.