Articles for July 14th, 2011

Tei-An Celebrates 3rd Anniversary at One Arts Plaza in Dallas

Teiichi “Teach” Sakurai, the hardest working man in the noodle business.

On August 8, Tei-An is throwing a bash to celebrate their 3rd year at One Arts Plaza. According to tradition, that means you must bring a gift made of leather. (Oh boy, this guy will have a field day!)

But seriously, the party will feature food, drinks, and Hunter Sullivan’s three- piece band.

Jump for the five Ws.

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Somebody Help This Poor Girl: Pregnant and Hungry

I can’t even imagine what it is like to be pregnant in Dallas during July. However, there is one loyal Disher who is just that. She writes:

I am in need of a restaurant recommendation.  My husband is vegetarian, I am not, and I was hoping you or your readers could suggest a restaurant that has a great vegetarian dish for his birthday dinner.  The catch?  I’m pregnant, and loathe Indian/Asian food at the moment.  Thanks for any suggestions you can send!

“The catch?” That’s good. Help her.

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GO TEXAN Restaurant Roundup Week Starts July 25

The groovy folks at the Texas Agriculture Department really know how to throw a party. They also do a great job of promoting Texas food through their GO TEXAN program http://www.gotexan.org/. Each year they present a week-long celebration of Texas products by asking restaurants all over the state to create special fixed-price menus which consist of Texas products. The series of events, which runs from July 25-31, benefits local food banks.

Todd Staples, a man with a perfect last name for his job as Agriculture Commissioner, has this to say: “More chefs are working directly with farmers and ranchers to bring you fresh Texas food. The GO TEXAN Restaurant Round-Up is Texas’ only statewide dine-out week and is a great time to savor the best meats, vegetables, fruits and wines, while helping hungry Texans.”

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Eat This Now: Choriqueso at Tacos el Guero in Dallas

Choriqueso from Tacos el Guero. See, you are happier already

The wise and witty, Earl Hickey, once said, “You know how I feel about tacos.  It’s the only food shaped like a smile.  A beef smile.” And isn’t that about how we all feel?  What else brings more happiness than a terrific taco?  Sure, you could make an argument for family, friends, financial security, or Santa Claus, but nothing leaves more of a warm, fuzzy feeling inside than after you’ve pounded down a plateful of pork and beef sandwiched between hand-made tortillas.

Tacos el Guero is the type of place you could drive by a hundred times and never think twice about.  Its unassuming demeanor and slightly shady locale betray the abundance of gastronomic gold hidden inside this tiny taco shop.  The interior is no bigger than most people’s living rooms.  Seventy percent of that space is taken up by the kitchen area with two large, blazing hot flat-tops cooking up mountains of meat. A string of a half-dozen stools line one wall, no more than a few feet from the action on the stove top, so close the occasional diner has been known to lose an eye from flying spatters of taco grease. The menu is small, scribbled onto a white-board hanging from a far wall.  Those with as little ability in Español as myself, will luckily find English translations lovingly placed beside their Spanish counterparts, so you’ll have no question what “lengua,” “cabeza,” and “tripa” mean as you contemplate your order.  Don’t be scared, a little cow tongue never hurt anyone.

Don’t stop reading now…

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It’s The Most Wonderful Time of the Year: Striped Bass in Dallas

Day boat striped bass in Gloucester caught this morning will be in Dallas tomorrow.

The last two Julys I spent some time in Boston. Not only do I love the city; I love the food. Particularly the seafood (duh). In 2009, I joined Jim “Sevy” Severson, wife/partner Amy, and their two kids on their family vacation. Yes, I am desperate for friends, but I wasn’t just busting into their family vacation, we’d all enrolled in Steve Connolly Seafood’s School for Chefs. Many Dallas chefs (Dean Fearing, Kent Rathbun, Marc Cassel, Sharon Hage) have toured and learned from the plant’s two facilities: one in South Boston, the other in historic Gloucester.

I ended up writing a feature about our trip. To this day it remains one of the most interesting (and fun) adventures of my life. Meeting the fisherman who risk their lives and fortunes on a daily basis changed the way I think about the food on my plate. Especially the seafood.

One of my fondest memories came during a tour of the plant in Boston where the fish are processed and packaged for delivery. Our guide at that point was Robert Chandler, a marine biologist, senior buyer, and general manager of the facility. As he was explaining how the scales were removed from fish, his right hand was massaging the mouth of a huge striped bass in a tub next to him. I made some snarky remark about his unconscious tendency to rub a fish and he laughed.  I wrote:

“I love this fish,” he said, absentmindedly massaging the mouth of the fish with his thumb. “They are the quintessential Massachusetts summertime fish. You know when the striped bass are running. The Red Sox are playing, and times are good.”

Anywhoo, it’s summertime in Dallas and this morning I received word that the striped bass are running. Those in the picture will be served at Fearing’s, Neighborhood Services Lovers & Preston, Dragonfly, and Neiman Marcus downtown tomorrow.

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