Restaurant Review: Crossroads Diner in Dallas

Perfect pancakes by Tom Fleming. Photo by Kevin Marple.

Chef Tom Fleming has an affinity for fine Alsatian wine. He developed his taste for the dry Rieslings and aromatic Gewürztraminers produced in the northeast region of France in 1990 when he apprenticed under classical French chef Paul Haeberlin at L’Auberge de l’Ill. The restaurant in the small town of Illhaeusern was established in 1878 by Haeberlin’s grandfather in an old farmhouse. L’Auberge de l’Ill received its first Michelin star in 1952, one in 1957, its third in 1967, and has maintained three-star status for more than four decades.

Fleming went on to cook all over France, the East Coast of the United States, and eventually back in his hometown of Chicago, where he was opening chef for Jean Joho’s Brasserie JO, which won a James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant in 1996. A year later, Stephan Pyles lured him to Dallas to launch the short-lived AquaKnox. While the project was delayed, Fleming hooked up with David Holben, then executive chef at Mediterraneo. Fleming signed on as chef de cuisine and worked there for 18 months before Holben introduced him to Franco Bertolasi, proprietor of The Riviera, which had ranked as the top restaurant in Dallas for nearly two decades. Fleming cooked there for two years, wowing the public and critics alike.

All of which make his latest venture something of a curiosity.

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9 comments on “Restaurant Review: Crossroads Diner in Dallas

  1. Let me be the first to comment here, this place, ROCKS!

    The girl I had brunch with last Sunday has been back twice with her friends.

  2. Crossroads is FANTASTIC! So happy to finally have something new for the LH/Walnut Hill area.

  3. Love Fleming! Love the family choice he made! I will be bringing my three kids under four years old, this weekend. Gird your loins, put up all sharp objects, and make some extra sticky buns!

  4. Been a few times already and am very impressed. Pork hash is indeed tasty as is the homemade chorizo. Only pseudo-complaint? I wish they had a counter/bar to belly up to for breakfast. Every diner needs one.

  5. I was just thinking the same thing (counter/bar) as snootyfoodie. Great suggestion but I doubt if they’ll do it.

  6. didn’t work for me. the sticky-bun french toast was a soggy mess, the grits made my grandma angry, and the “we got our liquor license today, everything’s on sale” $5 Rahr was… expensive for a sale item.

    between Barbec’s and Dream Cafe I don’t think I’ll find a reason to revisit Crossroads Diner (p.s. diners around the state of New Jersey want to kick Crossroads’ butt and take their name back)

  7. As a Lake Highlands resident, I was so excited when this place opened because we don’t have enough quality non-chain restaurants in the area. Loved the pancakes and the friendly waitstaff. It’s definitely a family place, and I love that. The only thing I wasn’t crazy about were the biscuits. They were hard as a rock.