Hanna Raskin’s cover story in the Observer this week is a must-read. In it, she makes the case that the Dallas scene has lost its moorings. Not only do we not have world-class comestibles (oh, to be world class!), but she raises the question of whether Dallas deserves to be ranked higher than Austin, San Antonio, or Houston (Houston!). It really is a very thoughtful, well-written story. It will no doubt spark some good conversation, quite an accomplishment given that the North Carolina transplant has only been eating in this town for a few months.
To balance the effusive praise: how the hell do you publish a story like that without showing even one picture of food? Or of the several players on the scene that Raskin talked to? I sense budgetary constraints. Shame.