Articles for March 23rd, 2010

Tea Talk: The Adolphus

Ah, tea at The Adolphus. A blissful experience to say the least. The atmosphere, the service and the food all represent the best of what afternoon tea has to offer. Don’t get me wrong, there are a number of tea services in the area that are lovely, delicious and relaxing as well. (In fact, see Raya’s review of our experience at The Arboretum here.) But there’s just something about the regal décor, the tea captain in her tuxedo with tails, and the classical pianist that makes one feel as if the letters HRH (His/Her Royal Highness) precede their name.

The experience begins as we are escorted to a cozy sofa surrounded by lush greenery. On a coffee table in front of us sit two formal place settings (see photo) and a plate of three small cookies to whet our appetites. We are handed a list of teas to peruse and asked if we’d like champagne. (Yes, please.) The tea captain, Michelle (who has been in her position for five years and knows everything about tea), explains that we should choose three flavors to be shared between us. Raya and I decide on Pear Caramel, Rainforest Mate, and a special chocolaty blend carried only occasionally, Decadence. Continue reading "Tea Talk: The Adolphus"

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Chef John Tesar is Headed Back to Dallas

I spoke with a very busy John Tesar last night. He has read these comments and would like to tell his side of the story—“to set the record straight”—and dangle a little bit of news.

NN: Are you coming back to Dallas?
JT: I am coming back to Dallas. Currently I have 2 options. They are two separate entities. I have signed a letter of intent with both. I am leaving tomorrow [today] for a short vacation and family business. I will make my decision in five or six days.

NN: Any hint on what you will be doing?
JT: I’m not coming back as the 5 start chef of the Mansion, I’m coming back to enjoy cooking here in Dallas. I will put my head down and cook. Like I said, I have two options. One is quite elaborate with many concepts. The other one is built around me. Whoever I go with, they will make the announcement. Not me.

NN: So were you fired from Tesar’s in Woodlands?
JT: I voluntarily decided to walk away from Tesar’s. I was not fired; I walked away. It’s not going to effect my future.

NN: Is Tesar’s going to continue to use your name?
JT: My only involvement [with Tesar’s] now is whether or not they use the name. I’m not totally against it but it is difficult for me since my name is up there and I can’t be in control of quality. My partners and I split with irreconcilable differences. The restaurant is doing well—just not well enough to pay a John Tesar-style chef. I gave them back my 20 percent and we are still wrangling over things like money the and name.  It’s a good restaurant.

NN: So give me the short version of what happened?
JT: I do not wish ill on my ex-partners. They enticed me to leave New York when I was with David Burke [at Fish]. I went into the business with good will. I realized that the project was opening in the middle of a recession and was undercapitalized. We started out with three partners and the 2 majority partners [Bill and Hilary Burke] pushed out my main contact. But we built this thing [restaurant] and got good reviews. But they had no experience in the restaurant business and we knew it wasn’t going to make enough to pay me, especially since I have a family. [Tesar’s wife is 4 ½ months pregnant with their first child.]

NN: Why do you think so many people get so emotional when your name shows up on SideDish?
JT: I’m flattered by the emotions good and bad because I never figured people cared so much. I let my body of work speak for me. People get so emotionally involved. And many have turned on their mentor and then partners starting turning everyone against each other. My biggest mistakes were that I didn’t take 51 percent and shouldn’t have named it after me.

NN: Well, you certainly have had a controversial career.
JT: I’ve had an up and down career and I haven’t lived up to my potential. I have learned a lot from my mistakes. I guess there is something good about people not liking you.  It builds character.

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Somebody Help This Poor Editor: Best Signature Cocktails in Dallas

I admit it. I’m getting old, so I don’t go out like I used to. I’m also a creature of habit, which means if I’m drinking, it’s probably a glass of wine. However, I know you guys go out—and you’re full of opinions—so tell me about the best signature cocktails in town. Heck, let’s just call this the best cocktails, because does it really need to be signature to be the best? Probably not. Bolsa? Tillman’s Roadhouse? Central 214? Shinsei? Surely there are actual bar bars, as opposed to restaurant bars, that pour a mean drink.

P.S. Any beer drinkers out there? I need to know which bars have the best selection. Flying Saucer and Ginger Man are givens. Maybe even the Monk and Capitol Pub. Got something better?

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