Articles for January, 2010
Zinsky’s Delicatessen in Dallas Changes Sandwich Size: Bigger is Better
This is for all of you who bitched about the size of the meat portions in the sandwiches at Zinsky’s. In response to your feedback, the folks at Zinsky’s are pumping the pastrami (and other deli meats) up from 7 ounces to 12 ounces. Hey co-owner, Jim Baron, why the switch?
“When we opened we wanted to keep the price of most of the sandwiches under $10. To do this meant serving a sandwich with 7 oz. of meat. We now realize our customers expect and want a larger sandwich,” explains Jim Baron. “When customers receive the overstuffed sandwiches, they often are surprised. ‘This is too big. It’s ridiculous. Who can eat that much?’ We realized, in deli-speak, the special language of deli customers around the world, this meant ‘What a great sandwich!’”
Zinsky’s serves delicious and medicinal matzo ball soup. And half sandwiches.
(Cartoon by Mark Dino.)
13 Comments »Remembering Darryl Beeson
Darryl Beeson with Ravenswood founder Joel Peterson. (Jim White photos)
Many of us in and around the restaurant business have vivid stories to tell about Darryl Beeson. He was an easy going and friendly guy. Besides wine, he loved jokes. Almost every conversation started with one. Good or bad, you always laughed at Darryl’s jokes. Darryl Beeson died late yesterday after complications from a car accident. He was only 54. Details on Darryl’s funeral are still pending.
Savor Dallas co-founder Jim White had a long personal and professional history with Darryl. Below, Jim remembers Darryl Beeson.
UPDATE: Memorial service for Darryl Beeson is Friday February 5 at 3:30 p.m. at Restland in Dallas.
32 Comments »Darryl Beeson’s Class–and a class act.
by Jim WhiteThe first time I ever met Darryl Beeson he seemed very professorial. Maybe it was his tweed jacket, vest, bow tie, horn rimmed glasses and Adolphe Menjou mustache. Or, perhaps it was his thorough awareness of “things” and his tendency to conduct “mini-seminars” on them. He could talk about everything from sports and current events to broadcasting or social-scene gossip. But it was his encyclopedic knowledge of wine that impressed me as I got to know him. He was producing Jody Dean’s midday talk show in the winter of 1994 when I returned to Dallas to become KRLD’s morning news anchor. I was also charged with developing a “Restaurant Show.” Something operations director Michael Spears had been quite keen on while we were still in Chicago plotting our return to Big D. Darryl was to be my producer for the program, slated to start in the spring of 1995. I was quite intimidated by the prospect of hosting a program devoted to cooking and wine. I did very little of the former, although I could hold my own with the latter. But since Spears knew I had a love of these things and travel, cultivated by radio stints in San Francisco, numerous forays to Europe, and about a year of being in the dining circle of a Chicago restaurant critic, he insisted I could do it. It was Darryl who helped smooth what seemed like a rocky road ahead to me. And a damn steep learning curve–it was a daunting assignment just getting to know who the players were in the Dallas and Texas restaurant biz after several years out of town.
Tonight Is the Last Night for the James Beard Dinner at Bijoux
Sometimes I need a reminder about the special dining experiences in Dallas. You fall into a habit—chalupas and bean soup at Fernando’s, fried rice at Shinsei, a chicken salad sandwich at Zoës Kitchen—and you forget about the those little jewel boxes, tucked into neighborhoods, out of the spotlight. Last night I had the good fortune of feasting on the James Beard menu, available through tonight, at Bijoux. Full disclosure: we were invited to dine. Continue reading "Tonight Is the Last Night for the James Beard Dinner at Bijoux"
3 Comments »Dallas Wine Guy Darryl Beeson Died Today
I just learned from Facebook that Darryl Beeson, former cellar master at the Mansion and other Dallas restaurants, passed away today. He was 54. According to Savor Dallas co-founder Vicki-Briley White:
“We just received a phone call with the sad news that Darryl Beeson has passed away. We will update you as soon as Jim speaks with his cousin who left the message for us. Our prayers are with his family.
Followed by:
”Darryl had been in a minor car accident in University Park. The paramedics noticed that he was incoherent and took him to the hospital. He’s been in the hospital for several weeks. His liver and kidneys started failing him and he has been in and out of ICU during this time. The actual cause of death has not been determined.”
Darryl is survived by his two daughters. He was a great guy.
UPDATE: In 2001, Darryl, then cellar master at Voltaire, wrote a piece for D Magazine with a surprise ending. You can read his words here.
12 Comments »Cedar Waxwings are All Over Dallas
I know this is a food blog but I am home sick and bored. And Amy Severson just commented that her neighborhood is full of cedar waxwings. So is mine! Here is a post I wrote last year on cedar waxwings. So far today I also have seen American goldfinches, house finches, titmice, chickadees, downy woodpeckers, great blue herons, great egrets, red-bellied woodpeckers, ruby-crowned kinglets, and white-winged doves from the window in my home office. Okay, I’ll shut up now.
Popolos, R.I.P: Share Memories With Eric
No, not that Eric, Eric Nicholson over at People “Who Need People” Newspapers. Eric is writing a retrospective on Popolos for Preston Hollow People. (The restaurant is closing tomorrow night.) If you have memories you’d like to share, please email Eric: eric.nicholson@peoplenewspapers.com. (Where is the actual hollow in Preston Hollow?)
1 Comment »SideDish Tasters Event: Diver Sea Scallops vs U-10 Scallops
- This could be YOU!
Sorry for the last minute notice but I’ve decided to organize an impromptu SideDish Tasters Event. Some of you participated in the SDTE we held last summer for Zinsky’s. Others contributed to the Jammin’ With Wild Salmon (and wild commenters) at TJs Market in Preston Forest . I’m going to gather some hand-harvested diver scallops and some U-10s and see if YOU can taste the difference. ONLY FIVE OF YOU. Chef Richard Chamberlain of Chamberlain’s Fish Market has agreed to do the ordering and provide the space. We are trying to work out the details but this much I know: The event will take place at 1:00 p.m. on Tuesday, February 2 at Chamberlain’s Fish Market in Addison.
Stay tuned. Contest rules will be announced soon.
1 Comment »Bundles Gourmet in Lewisville: The Case of the Missing Post
- Bundles from Bundles Gourmet in Lewisville.
Long story short: Yesterday I wrote a post about Bundles Gourmet in Lewisville. A co-worker brought me some samples and people in the office seemed to like them. A bundle is a yeast roll filled with sweet and savory fillings such as spinach and feta, chicken curry, chocolate hazelnut, and cinnamon. (Here is the menu.) Anywhoo, after I posted the news I asked the co-worker how she came across Bundles Gourmet in Lewisville. She admitted that her father owned the store. I took the post down. Several of you sharpshooters out there noticed the edit and asked me why I removed the post.
I decided to give them a try. Last night I took the leftover bundles home and heated them in a real oven—all we have here is a microwave and I couldn’t imagine radiation plus yeast would equal gourmet. I sampled the chicken curry and broccoli and sun dried tomato. I love yeast rolls—I grew up eating them for lunch every day in the cafeteria of Arthur Kramer Elementary School—and these little bundles are good yeast rolls. However, the fillings are skimpy—there isn’t a good proportion of roll to meat or chocolate and after two you are full and feel like you will burst if you drink a glass of water. The product is an appealing idea—this morning I tried the cinnamon roll with my coffee—but I get that these little bundles are better when they fresh from the oven. The Bundles Gourmet in Lewisville is the first store. You can visit and buy a bundle or a Bundles Gourmet. They are trademarked and ready to roll out.
6 Comments »Popolos in Dallas to Close: Teresa Gubbins Knows an Employee
- Gumshoes are not for sissies.
Veteran reporter, Teresa Gubbins over at PegNews, says that Popolos will close on Saturday. Gubbins’ long experience in food journalism pays off once again. Way to go, Ace. Now I’m curious. Why would a landlord raise the rent on an established restaurant and risk losing a paying customer? Did said landlord get a better offer? Was Popolos paying their rent? If Popolos can’t pay the rent in Preston Royal, how can a 26-seat fried chicken restaurant that opened a week ago across the street make money? Details on my experience at The Chicken Coop are in the works.
24 Comments »Cha-cha-cha-Changes: Dish Restaurant in Dallas
- Some dish on Dish.
I’ve heard from several frequent and upset Dish Restaurant Nightclub and Lounge (and Beyond) customers this morning. Seems they are not happy about some recent changes in the management team of the Dish, the creation of “Dallas restaurateur and nightclub guru” Tim “obar, LIFT, Dragonfly” McEneny and partner Doug “Beyond the Box” Brown. Here is one concern/question.
Could you find out why Tim at Dish fired both of his Gay Managers –the gayborhood is planning a revolt.
Yow. Zah. A quick e-mail to an insider reveals that McEneny recently sold LIFT and replaced the two Dish management types and with former Fuse and LIFT peeps. Oh, and I buried my lead: Executive chef, Brian Sommers, was fired yesterday. I know nothing about the gay issue in this scenario but I doubt sexual orientation was a factor since Dish is located on Cedar Springs and in the heart of Gaytown Dallas. I’m just stating the facts according to an inside source. (Or, for those of you in the Buddhahood, it could just be another case of warm impermanence.)
18 Comments »The 26th Dallas Morning News Wine Competition Begins Monday
Hey, Rebecca Murphy! How does one get on your list to be a judge for the Dallas Morning News Wine Competition? I have included the names of all of the judges set to judge wine starting next Monday. The two-day event will take place at the Dallas Convention Center. The panel will award gold, silver, and bronze medals to winning wines in over 250 categories. You, dear public, will have to wait for the Dallas Wine and Food Festival (April 21-25) to get a taste. Anywhoo, you can check out Murphy’s hard work here. She’s a peach!
Continue reading "The 26th Dallas Morning News Wine Competition Begins Monday"
Restaurant Review: Smoke in Dallas
The beef rib at Smoke. (photo by Kevin Marple)
Several people have asked why we didn’t include Smoke at the Belmont Hotel in Dallas in our top barbecue joints in Dallas. Well, let me be direct—Smoke is not about barbecue.
45 Comments »The BBQ Challenge
- Daniel Vaughn takes no prisoners.
I’ve spent the better part of today with Daniel “The BBQ Snob” Vaughn. We are producing a video with Daniel looking over Kevin Marple’s photographs that didn’t get printed in the magazine and talking about barbecue. Of course we at some too. Anywhoo, as you can imagine, Mr. BBQ Snob is getting a pretty big head on his shoulders now that he is the local expert on the subject. He asked me to relay this challenge to you. Here goes:
The BBQ Challenge
E-V-E-R-Y barbeque joint in DFW. That is my claim, with a few caveats. The baked ribs at Texas Roadhouse do not count, nor do multiple locations of chain barbecue, but if they can legitimately be called a BBQ joint, and they’re located in DFW, then I have paid them a visit. If anyone out there can come up with a legitimate joint that I have missed, I will join you for dinner there, and I’ll pay. To help weed out repeats, my blog and my map are at your disposal. Now bring it on.
Cheeky isn’t he?
27 Comments »Get Your Gumbo On at Rex’s Seafood Market This Sunday
Okra, a key ingredient in gumbo.
Got a winning gumbo recipe stashed away somewhere? It’s time to bring it out. Rex’s Seafood Market is hosting it’s second annual Gumbo Challenge this Sunday (Jan 31). If you want to participate, you have to call Rex’s and tell them what kind of gumbo you’re making. On the day of the challenge, you bring your dish to the Market (hot, please) at 2pm. The party goes from 3–6, and the winner gets a prize (I just called, and they hadn’t decided yet what the prize will be. Probably in-store credit). There’s no charge to get in, and there will be drinks, food, lots of gumbo tasting, and both a general vote and a judge’s vote.
Sounds like a great excuse to practice your gumbo-making before the Superbowl next weekend.
1 Comment »
Checking Out BBQ: Off the Bone BBQ in Forest Hill
The Horseshoe at Off the Bone.
Fellow D Magazine staffer Rhonda Reinhart read our cover story on The Best Barbecue in Dallas and cruised out to Off the Bone. She files this report.
When I realized I had gotten the last of the ribs at Off the Bone BBQ in Forest Hill on Saturday night, I almost felt bad. Then I took my first bite. Oh, my goodness gracious. These things were so magnificent, gluttony beat out guilt even as I watched disappointed patron after disappointed patron get the woeful news.
It was about 6 pm by the time I got there, and it was right around then that the kitchen began to inform the dining room that not only were the ribs gone, but so was the sausage and the chicken and possibly some other meats. I’m really not sure. I was so hungry (I hadn’t eaten all day in anticipation of my barbecue road trip) and nervous (what if I didn’t get my ribs?!?) that I really couldn’t focus. I heard the pit master say they “got hit hard” earlier in the day, and I started to sweat some more.
Then, my Horseshoe arrived. This gargantuan baked potato comes stuffed with chopped beef, sour cream, shredded cheese, chives, and bacon and is cradled on its sides by three of the tastiest pork ribs my taste buds have ever had the pleasure of tasting. There’s sauce on the table, but you don’t need it. The meat on these bones is just right just the way it is.
8 Comments »And the potato? Heavy, massive, stuffed to the gills. Did I mention heavy? Owner Marilyn came by as I was working my way through the potato beast, and she had just one thing to say: “I hope you don’t have anything to do later.” Well, Marilyn, I did have some plans, but I’m glad I ate the Horseshoe instead.
Matthew Antonovich Plans His “Back With a Little Bangkok” Comeback
Michael Hiller has an update on chef Matthew “Sipango” Antonovich’s new venture, Tie Restaurant and Social Club. Short story: Matt is going to open a 12,000-square-foot space in a “perfect location” that “can support a 5 million dollar restaurant with local support that can be busy 7 nights a week.” The overall concept is a bit confusing. Part of the complex will be “the first Thai Steakhouse in America.” According to Antonovich’s Twitter page, “TIE Restaurant will have live entertainment, Indian Dinner Seating, Vietnamese and Hong Kong Street Food Menu under 15 dollars.” The rambling post on escapehatchdallas.com goes on to say, “God bless the recession I have found great deals on equipment, designers and food service experts hungry to put Dallas back on the map of best restaurants in America.”
I know one thing—this guy can cook. I am curious to know where he found $5 million dollars in this economy. Want to know more about Mr. Antonovich? He’s not shy.
Two questions. Are there Thai Steakhouses in Thailand? Was Dallas ever on the map of best restaurants in America? Just curious.
UPDATE: Whoopsie. Doodle. Doodle. Folks, please stay in your seats with your seat belts fastened until the caption has turned off the seat belt sign.
Ding.
11 Comments »Dine at Tei-An, Gain Access to Exclusive Rooftop Lounge
As if dining at Tei-An wasn’t great enough on it’s own, the experience can now continue even after you’ve finished the last slurp of soba (or the last bite of white seaweed salad…or the last shishito pepper). The restaurant announced today that its rooftop bar is now open–but you can only gain access by eating at Tei-An or buying a membership. The Brad has some pics on his blog, and from the looks of things, you should probably have a pretty good view of the Winspear Opera House. The lounge will be open Tues–Sun from 5:30 pm to 2 am. For info on memberships and special events, contact Yosuke Fukuda (rooftop lounge director) at 214-220-2828.
4 Comments »Greetings From In-N-Out
I am having a double-double animal-style burger at In-N-Out in Westminster,CA. Read this and weep.
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“I Scuba for Scallops” Blind Tasting: Chamberlain’s Fish Market on February 2
I am really sick today and I am not thinking clearly. However, I have started this contest and I’m going to finish it. Tuesday, FIVE lucky Dishers will get a chance to make Dallas seafood history by participating in our “I Scuba for Scallops” contest. Contestants will use their palates to see if they can taste the difference between an expensive hand-harvested scallop and a dry-packaged U-10. I’ve just returned from the doctor and the doctor said I need rest so I’m going to lie down for a couple of hours.
While I snooze, you have to find some lyrics to one of my favorite songs. I buried them in this post. The first five of you to reveal the band and the song will be invited to the tasting. If you are going to play, PLEASE make sure your schedule is clear from 1-3:00 p.m. on Tuesday. Go now. It’s Friday and Google is standing by.
Winners announced at 5:00 p.m.
UPDATE: Time and date of this tasting may change. Developing.
13 Comments »